LAUSANNE, LIKE A DUCK TO WATER
The city provides the ideal setting for water sports. Tips and recommendations from kitesurfer Camille Losserand. Page 40
GARDENS ON THE LAKE
Lausanne Jardins, an exhibition that takes place every five years, hits the lakeshore this summer. Page 44
THE OLYMPIC CAPITAL ON WHEELS
LAURIANE GILLIÉRON, SCREENWRITER AND
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PRODUCER
American painter Nicolas Lambelet Coleman pays tribute to the colours of Lake Geneva
Page 6
ENGLISH SUMMER/AUTUMN 2024 - N° 13 NICE TO MEET YOU MAURINE MERCIER GIVES HEROES AND HEROINES
A VOICE Page 32
MUSÉE CANTONAL DES BEAUX-ARTS LAUSANNE
The Collection
mcba.ch Free admission Ferdinand Hodler, Le lac Léman vu de Chexbres 1904, oil on canvas, 70,5 × 108,3 cm. Musée cantonal des Beaux-Arts de Lausanne. Acquisition, 1904
EDITORIAL NICE TO MEET YOU
Welcome to L’eau-sanne
Right from the sound of it, you could tell they were destined to be together. Lausanne and water are a match made not just in geography, but in phonetic harmony: “Lau” is pronounced exactly like “l’eau” (meaning water in French). And ever since the rivers carved the city’s contours on the shores of the largest Alpine lake, they have remained inseparable.
Wherever you look, Lake Geneva resonates with the city, embellishing it, infusing it with a different colour in each season, and often becoming one with it in a passionate red hue at sunset. This infinite palette of colour features prominently in the work of Swiss-American painter Nicolas Lambelet Coleman (p. 48). Lausanne’s stunning panoramic views have earned the city numerous supporting roles in film, music and literature (p. 16) and provide a fresh backdrop every day for inline skaters whooshing down the steep streets of the Olympic Capital, also the unofficial capital of roller sports (p. 6).
This close relationship between water and Lausanne – the focus of our feature piece – will be showcased in the seventh edition of Lausanne Jardins. From June to early October, all the event’s works will be displayed together on the lakeside for the first time (p. 44). We’ll (almost) be walking on water. We’ll be asking how we can conserve our blue gold. We’ll travel back in time to visit the Rochat Baths, which, in the 19th century, celebrated a brand new hobby: bathing.
For a total immersion in Lausanne, this issue also provides a number of spots where you can discover the city’s rich gastronomic and cultural offerings. It will also point you in the direction of some of its hidden treasures, such as those historical details that can only be admired above the eyeline (p. 52).
We also get better acquainted with Maurine Mercier, Swiss Journalist of the Year 2023 for her coverage of the war in Ukraine; actress Lauriane Gilliéron, who has come back to her roots after 12 years in California to set up her own production company; and Camille Losserand, who went off to become world champion in big air kitesurfing after years of practising off the shores of Lake Geneva.
Without further ado, we invite you to dive into this 13th issue of Lausanner
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IMPRESSUM
The Lausanner, a tourist welcome and information magazine about life in Lausanne
Editorial: Lausanne Tourisme
Direction: Steeve Pasche and Sermena Sulejmani
Editorial production: Large Network
Graphics: Saentys
Editorial Manager: Trinidad Barleycorn, Large Network
Production: Nathalie Roux and Marie-Laure Beausoleil
ARCHIVES
In April 1984, Guillaume Argenta, the grandson of Victor Desarzens, founding conductor of the Orchestre de Chambre de Lausanne (Lausanne Chamber Music Orchestra), took advantage of the deserted city over Easter weekend to indulge in his passion, rollerblading, an increasingly popular sport in the city’s steep streets. Surprise! He was caught on film speeding down Avenue du Théâtre by a photographer from 24 heures. The next day, the young Lausanne native was thrilled to see his picture on the front page of the Frenchlanguage daily paper alongside an article about the abandoned city centre as people flocked to the lakeside during what was, at the time, the hottest Easter weekend since 1966.
Writing: Trinidad Barleycorn, Carole Berset, Julien Crevoisier, Erik Freudenreich, Laurent Grabet, Alexandre Lanz, Leandra Patané, Jean-Christophe Piot, Anne-Catherine Renaud
Photography: Martine Desarzens, Lausanne (p. 2) – Lorenz Richard/Switzerland Tourism (p. 5, 8) – Lucas Vuitel/ArcInfo (p. 5, 32) – Caroline Vuagniaux/Lausanne Tourisme (p. 6-7) – Pierre Albouy/Keystone (p. 9) – Anthony Anex/Keystone (p. 10) – Gabriel Monnet/Keystone (p. 11) – Corinne Cuendet (p. 12) – DR (p. 13, 14) – Lucas Muller/LUKAM (p. 13) – Dorentina Emini (p. 14) – Kerri (p. 14) –Trinidad Barleycorn (p. 15, 21) – La Merveilleuse Histoire d’Henry Sugar, Wes Anderson, 2023, American Empirical Pictures (p. 16) – Cet Obscur Objet du désir, Luis Buñuel, 1977, Greenwich Film Productions (p. 17) – EHL (p. 19) –Seb Kohler (p. 20) – François Wavre/Lundi13 (p. 22) – Lauren Pasche (p. 24) –Cornelius Schregle (p. 24) – Lev Radin/Alamy (p. 25) – Ville de Lausanne/DR (p. 25) – Felix Imhof/UNIL (p. 25) – Mathilde Imesch (p. 27) – MTV Unplugged (p. 27) – Pascal Schmidt (p. 27) – Cécile Gretsch/Saentys (p. 28, 52, 54) –Jordi Ruiz Cirera (p. 20, 21) – Alessandro della Valle/Keystone (p. 34) –Marino Trotta/Ville de Lausanne (p. 38) – Blaise Kormann/L’illustré (p. 40) – Blake Production (p. 42, 43) – Giglio Pasqua/Schweiz Tourismus (p. 43) – Florian Cella/Ville de Lausanne (p. 52) – Collectif Municipalité de Lausanne/Bibliothèque nationale suisse (p. 52) – Rama (p. 53) –Vanessa Cardoso/24heures (p. 53) – Phillip Waterton (p. 54)
© Photos Lausanne Tourisme – Swizterland Tourism/Nico Schaerer (p. 5) – Caroline Vuagniaux (p. 7) – Swizterland Tourism/Lorenz Richard (p. 8, 61, 73) – Jordi Ruiz Cirera (p. 32-33) – Marino Trotta (p. 38) – Blake Production (p. 42-43) – LT/Laurent Kaczor (p. 59, 60, 65, 69, 73, 79) –
LT/diapo.ch (p. 59, 60, 61, 63, 68, 69, 73, 79) – Switerland Tourism/Giglio Pasqua (p. 60, 43) – P. Waterton (p. 60, 61) – LT/Maxime Genoud (p. 61) –Christian Meixner Fotografie (61, 73) – Switzerland Tourism/Colin Frei (p. 63) –CIO/Lydie Nesvadba (p. 65) – Switzerland Tourism/Andre Meier (p. 67) –William Gammuto sarl (p. 67) – LT/Alix Besson (p. 68) – Sarah Jacquemet (p. 69) – Nuno Acacio (p. 71)
Image search: Sabrine Elias, Large Network
Cover: Camille Losserand photographed by Blaise Kormann/L’illustré
Advertising: Michel Chevallaz +41 79 213 53 15
Printing: Gremper SA, Basel Available in French and English
Writing, administration and announcements: Lausanne Tourisme Av. de Rhodanie 2 Case postale 975 CH-1001 Lausanne +41 21 613 73 73
www.lausanne-tourisme.ch
e-mail: direction@lausanne-tourisme.ch
With the support of
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SUMMER/AUTUMN 2024 - N° 13
TALK OF THE TOWN
The Olympic Capital on a roll for the past 30 years
Page 6
LAUSANNE IN MOTION
Top new spots
Page 13
Brunch extravaganza
Page 15
Lausanne guest star in an Oscar-winning film
Page 16
INTERVIEW
BEHIND THE SCENES
“They wanted to go to Evian by metro”
Page 22
Named Swiss journalist of the year for 2023, Maurine Mercier looks back on when she started out in Lausanne and what motivated her to become a correspondent in war zones.
Page 32
WATER IN LAUSANNE
Blue gold has shaped the city’s history. This summer, Lausanne Jardins dedicates its seventh edition to this resource, with 40 works displayed along the shores of Lake Geneva.
Page 38
OUTING
Treasures hidden up high
Page 52
MUST-VISITS
Lausanne locales that are not to be missed
Page 58
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CONTENTS
Urban sports are flourishing in the Olympic Capital, especially inline skating. Lausanne has also been the unofficial rollerblading capital for the past 30 years, attracting riders from around the world. Among them, three world champions.
By Laurent Grabet
On 23 June, Lausanne will be celebrating its 30th anniversary as the Olympic Capital. It also joined the ranks of Olympic City when it held the successful 2020 Winter Youth Olympic Games (YOG). This reputation is further solidified by the presence of more than 50 international sports federations and organisations, the new Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS), and the world anti-doping agency.
What many people do not know is how much youth and urban sports are thriving in the city. These include the new Olympic disciplines of skateboarding, BMX and breaking. Breaking emerged from hip-hop culture and has been prevalent in Lausanne since the 1980s. For more than 20 years, the style has been celebrated in
6 TALK OF THE TOWN
a big way through two events organised on Esplanade de Montbenon by the urban arts organisation JDS Events: Journée 100% hip-hop (100% hip-hop day) in August, and the Au-Delà Des Préjugés (Beyond Prejudice) Festival in January.
Another new event at the Paris Olympics this summer is sport climbing. The Beaulieu Sports Halls in Lausanne are like a whole temple dedicated to the discipline, with facilities covering more than 1,500 sq. m. Le Cube in Mont-sur-Lausanne is just as spacious. And in Ecublens, just a few minutes from Lausanne, Totem is another climbing gym with 1,600 sq. m of routes and bouldering areas.
Another new sport to get excited about at the Olympic Games this summer is 3x3 basketball. A round of the prestigious World Tour that showcases this booming discipline is held every summer in Lausanne. Fans can download the Equip app to borrow basketballs for free from two lockers in the sports facilities at the Espace Fair-play in Vidy. Two new 3x3 courts also opened there last year.
But the most emblematic examples of Lausanne’s dynamic sporting culture are without a doubt inline skating and downhill longboarding. Thanks to its steep topography, but not just that, the Olympic Capital is also the unofficial world capital of these sports. →
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At the Vidy Bowl, all roller sports are welcome. The structure is the largest of its kind in Switzerland.
The city quite naturally earned this status three decades ago. In the golden age of inline skating, the first International Roller Contest drew 100,000 people to Vidy to turn it into the Woodstock of skating.
“Lausanne has become something of a ski resort for riders!”
Christian Montavon, downhill world champion
Since then, the Vaud capital has garnered a cult following. The www.downhillwings.ch website lists the best routes for practising these sports in Lausanne. Practically no other city in the world, not even San Francisco, has such long, steep routes that can be climbed so easily by public transport.
“Since the m2 metro line was built, Lausanne has become something of a ski resort for riders! You get on the m2, you roll downhill and you get back on,” exclaims Christian Montavon, 42, who has several world downhill championships to his name.
“Americans, Dutch, French and other nationalities come here to get a feel for the unique vibe. And they’re amazed by it. Downhill skating in the city is so deeply rooted in the culture that motorists and pedestrians most often respect us,” says Diego Poncelet. Outside of his degree in international relations, he won the World Downhill Skateboard Championship in 2022 and 2023 and was world time trial champion in February 2024. He is also one of the few pros in his sport. The Lausanne native is thrilled that skateboarding has been included in the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, and that last September a leg of the World Skateboarding Tour was held in Lausanne, at Palais de Beaulieu. US star Nyjah Huston, a top contender at the Paris Olympics, won the qualifier. But like many riders who view the situation with a wary eye, Diego Poncelet hopes that skateboarding will not lose its “friendly, amateur soul”. →
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Riders just love the city’s steep streets (here at the foot of the Cathedral).
A 30TH ANNIVERSARY WITH MUCH TO CELEBRATE
Lausanne’s love affair with the Olympics began in 1915. Due to the war raging in Europe at the time, Baron Pierre de Coubertin decided to move the International Olympic Committee (IOC) headquarters from Paris to Lausanne. Since then, the capital of Vaud has been a hub for the main institutions associated with the Olympic Games. In addition to the IOC, Lausanne is home to the world’s only Olympic Museum, opened in 1993, and about 50 international sports federations and organisations. That is how, on 23 June 1994, a century to the day after the IOC was founded, the city came to be promoted to Olympic Capital.
The 30th anniversary of the handing down of this unique title will be celebrated from 14 to 23 June 2024, with a host of activities and events scheduled:
• The Panathlon family games, on 15 and 16 June, are an opportunity for individuals and families to try out more than 30 sports.
• On 20 June, teams of Lausanne runners will go head-to-head against the m2 metro in a relay race between the Ouchy and Croisettes terminus stations.
• On 23 June, the 11th edition of the Lausanne Capitale Olympique race, open to walkers and runners, will cut through 10 km of the city from north to south. In this anniversary year, the route will take participants through important places in the city’s Olympic history.
30th anniversary of the Olympic Capital programme
At the Olympic Museum, the temporary exhibition Paris Olympics: an immersive journey is on show free of charge until 19 January 2025. It looks at the three editions of the Olympic Games in Paris, in 1900, 1924 and 2024, and the historic links between the French capital and the Olympic Movement.
On the weekends of 28 July and 11 August, the free programme Vivez les Jeux au Musée Olympique (Experience the Games at the Olympic Museum) will be packed with events and activities linked to the Olympic spirit.
And until the end of the year, the Museum is presenting, in Paris, Spot 24 – the Sports and Urban Cultures Olympic exhibition. In connection with the Olympic and Paralympic Games, the exhibition highlights the six new Olympic events – skateboarding, sport climbing, BMX freestyle, surfing, 3x3 basketball and breaking –in an attractive, educational and entertaining way.
TALK OF THE TOWN
In the summer months, Romane Favia, threetime world downhill rollerblading champion (see her interview in Lausanner 09), regularly does the run from Les Croisettes, the end of m2 metro line, to Ouchy and the lakeside. It’s a 6 km route with a total descent of about 340 metres. However, the Lausanne native would have no desire to take part in the competition if her sport were to be included in the Olympics one day. “It would certainly help to develop our sport, but it would detract from its beauty by standardising styles and over-emphasising the competitive aspect and taking away from the camaraderie, the lifestyle it embodies and the importance of personal achievement.” In her view, extreme sports do not fit neatly into the Olympic mould.
AN AMAZING TRIBE
Riders form a surprising tribe with its own codes. The Lausanne community meets almost every evening on sunny days in the heights above the city. Among them is a deliveryman, an architect, a nurse, students and a polygraphist. Many have made inline skating their means of transport for getting around day to day. Anyone is welcome to join them, but be warned: before you do, you’re better off having had plenty of practice on the more manageable slopes in the Vallée de la Jeunesse park.
In all, there are around 50 downhill skaters in the region. Of these, only around 20 practise on a regular basis. Riders can roll across Lausanne practically without stopping in a quarter of an hour. The fastest ones can whiz through the city in as little as eight minutes! That’s eleven minutes less than the metro.
But their objective is not speed, even if that obviously plays a part in the excitement they feel. It’s really more a question of getting to the flow state, i.e., “that exhilarating feeling of being totally in the present and at one with the city,” says champion Diego Poncelet. “During a run, you make Lausanne your own, you feel like it’s all yours.”
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At Avenue Sévelin 36, the historic La Fièvre skatepark has indoor and outdoor spaces.
Downhill skating became popular in the United States in the 1980s, but it really took off in Lausanne a decade later. In 1994, Tell Quel, the popular programme on French-speaking Swiss television at the time, did a segment on “Les fous du roller” (“Rollerblading freaks”) with a close-up of Ivano Gagliardo. He skates like an ace, with joyful nonchalance. His charisma left an indelible mark and inspired many down the same path.
SKATEPARK, BOWL AND PUMP TRACK
This epic period was also when the organisation La Fièvre was created. Founded in 1993 with the support of the City of Lausanne, La Fièvre continues to promote inline skating and skateboarding in the city and operates a gigantic skatepark on Avenue de Sévelin. It’s got it all: an indoor and outdoor street, bowl, ramps and even a shop. In terms of infrastructure, Lausanne has plenty to offer. Opened in 2022, the Beaulieu Sports Halls dedicates no less than 2,400 sq. m to roller sports. And the historic bowl in Vidy recently added a pump track, a closed loop with rollers and berms (banked turns).
“During a run, you make Lausanne your own, you feel like it’s all yours.”
Diego Poncelet, skateboard downhill and time trial world champion
Between the golden age, when helmets were more of a rarity, and today, almost everything has changed in terms of technique and equipment, but not much in spirit. The cardinal values of “friendship, freedom and pushing yourself ever further remain, but also the love of Lausanne, and of course a rebellious spirit,” says David Lenoir, a leading figure in the sport.
Legally, however, devotees are not allowed to skate in the city. They could, theoretically, even be fined CHF 20, the Lausanne police say. But in practice, tolerance almost always reigns. “Some officers are even interested in our sport and ask us about it,” Romane Favia says.
Most pedestrians and motorists know that riders sometimes take over certain streets for brief periods in the evening. They watch them go by as if they were going to a show. “Some pedestrians still get annoyed because they don’t realise that we brake as well as cyclists. So we remain polite and explain to them,” one of them says, reassuringly. And yes, even on the steepest streets in Lausanne, they stop in a matter of metres. But skaters have a responsibility on the road and the practice remains dangerous. Fortunately, serious injuries are rare thanks to the use of helmets, knee pads, gloves, sometimes a back protector, and other protective gear.
Staying lightweight is key for riders, even if they use gravity to propel themselves forward, because they are fuelled “by freedom, speed, and the indescribable pleasure of rolling and dancing through Lausanne,” Diego Poncelet says. With its 50 or so variations of possible downhill runs, the Vaud capital is not about to lose its cult status with skating community members! ■
11 TALK OF THE TOWN
More than 200 athletes from around the world participated in the Lausanne leg of the World Skateboarding Tour in September 2023.
LAUSANNE IN MOTION
DELIGHT YOUR TASTE BUDS JUST OUTSIDE LAUSANNE
Easy to get to by public transport, restaurants outside the city contribute to building the reputation and appeal of Greater Lausanne.
A favourite cultural destination in French-speaking Switzerland, Lausanne offers plenty of options when it comes to pleasing your taste buds. From its historic top spots to its new laboratories for culinary experimentation, from its gourmet restaurants to its everyday bistros, the Olympic Capital knows how to feed people (see the Feature on good places to eat in Lausanner 10) Despite the many dining options within Lausanne, good places to eat are also flourishing outside the city. “Customers are harder to please these days, consistently seeking more authenticity, a more personalised experience and a more regional focus. People like to get out of the city for more open space and greater calm,” says Gilles Meystre, president of the organisations GastroVaud and Label Fait Maison.
The restaurants listed opposite are all easy to get to and offer a friendly atmosphere. For example, just near the beaches and opposite the little port of Saint-Sulpice, L’Abordage features a picturepostcard setting with simple but delicious food. On the menu are Lake Geneva perch fillets and Italian specialities.
“The restaurant conjures images that are completely different from an urban centre,” says Gilles Meystre. This type of out-of-town restaurant doesn’t necessarily have to restrict itself to traditional cuisine but has everything to gain from focusing on local sourcing and home-made cooking, with a short but solid menu.” This is also true of the emblematic Café de Chavannes brasserie in Chavannes-prèsRenens, which was revamped in 2023 with a gourmet menu made from local ingredients and specialities such as whole roast chicken with cream sauce, served on Saturdays.
RECOMMENDATIONS JUST OUTSIDE LAUSANNE:
Café de Chavannes
Rte de la Maladière 40 1022 Chavannesprès-Renens lecafedechavannes.ch
Café du Village
Ch. du Ruisseau-Martin 9 1066 Épalinges cafeduvillage.ch
Chez Antoine
Grand-Rue 13 1095 Lutry chezantoine.ch
Chez Tof
Ch. de Maillefer 145 1052 Le Mont-sur-Lausanne cheztof.ch
L’Abordage
Av. du Léman 67 1025 Saint-Sulpice abordage-restaurant.ch
La Brasserie Millennium
Ch. de Mongevon 25 1023 Crissier millennium.ch/our-restaurants/ la-brasserie
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The restaurant Chez Tof offers brasserie-style dishes in a friendly atmosphere.
A HISTORIC CAFÉ BACK IN BUSINESS
After being closed for seven years, Café du Tramway reopened in late 2023, with its 1895 woodwork and stained glass windows and its beautiful terrace intact. “Here, it’s about the art of French-style entertaining: bistronomy and a passion for wine,” says Mathilde Deschamps, the new manager. In the kitchen stars chef Geoffroy Roméas, who has worked with Didier de Courten and at the Ermitage des Ravet. “We’re showcasing dishes that people have kind of forgotten about, such as pork filet mignon, vinaigrette leeks and quail eggs. The chef mainly focuses on flavours to create a sensory explosion.” And that can be found throughout the menu, down to the signature dessert, tarte Tatin (a kind of apple pie).
Café du Tramway – lecafedutramway.ch
Rue de la Pontaise 6b, Lausanne
FINE PASTRIES AND PLANT BAR
GOOD FOOD AT ANY TIME
Feeling peckish late at night? Head for the Lily Bar. Since last November, they have been serving up tapas, hot dishes and platters (with vegetarian or gluten-free options) made with local produce from 2 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.
The perfect accompaniment to the speciality cocktails, including the rosemary-smoked Red Velvet. “At lunchtime, we have a homemade dish of the day, salads and a toast and bagel bar,” adds co-manager Marie-Lys Perrier-Bizeau. The two-storey restaurant, with its lovely terrace in a pedestrian street, also has plenty of surprises in store: concerts, DJs, an open stage and themed evenings. Modular areas can also be reserved for private use.
Lily Bar – lilybar.ch
Rue Chaucrau 10, Lausanne
He was head pastry chef at Anne-Sophie Pic’s Michelin-starred restaurant at the Beau-Rivage Palace. She is a graduate of the Glion Hotel School (Vaud) and was an employee at the same five-star hotel. Together, Thibaut Honajzer and Alix Marin founded The Sweet Sage in October, a pastry house/tea-room where the art of dessert-making intermingles with that of herbal medicine. The little cakes, as beautiful as they are tasty, the delicious chocolates, cookies and other delights all reveal their passion for nature. “We also have a herbal bar and offer a wide choice of herbal teas, other teas and cake pairings,” Alix Marin adds. Or, you can choose a pastry drink, such as a seasonal latte, hot chocolate or an ice cream creation.
The Sweet Sage – thesweetsage.com
Rue du Flon 12, Lausanne
Café du Tramway is one of the city’s 44 traditional bistros.
13 LAUSANNE IN MOTION | TOP NEW SPOTS
GAMES, BEERS AND MATCHES
JAPANESE AND DANISH ART
If you’re looking for stylish clothes or furniture that will stand the test of time, you’ll find what you’re looking for at Tempo Design Store, opened in November by Ana Deffarges and Pablo de Pinho. “Most of the clothes, shoes and accessories are created in limited series by master craftsmen in Japan, using natural materials such as cotton or vegetable tanned leather, and hand-dyed with natural pigments,” Pablo says. “The furniture and light fixtures are made based on the same model in Denmark.” The co-founders hope to open other stores in the future. The first of these stores is in San Francisco, where they lived for a long time.
Tempo Design Store – Mastermade Goods tempodesignstore.com
Rue du Midi 11, Lausanne
With its spacious terrace and sports competitions playing on large screens, the Kerri Bar is the ideal place to watch the European Football Championships, from 14 June to 14 July. In December, six friends took over running the pub, which is named after its predecessor, Kerrigan’s, the legendary bar from the 1980s and 1990s. The team have elegantly restored the place, while maintaining a friendly retro decor where you can take advantage of the non-stop service to enjoy assortments, burgers, or fish and chips, while playing a game of bowls ( pétanque) or darts. “The programme also features card tournaments, evening blind tests, and Sunday brunches,” says Yohann Mathieu, one of the co-founders.
Le Kerri – kerri.ch
Rue de la Barre 8, Lausanne
FOR GOURMETS YOUNG AND OLD
Michael and Christopher Limmois have been on a wonderful adventure since October. After running the Inglewood restaurants in Lausanne, the two brothers have opened the first establishment of their own, Histoire sans faim, in the new Plaines-du-Loup eco-neighbourhood. There’s a large children’s space for families to enjoy, as well as a play area next to the terrace. The decor gives full honours to the 1980s and 1990s. The menu reflects their passion for Italy. “We offer fresh pasta and gourmet pizzas, with fresh ingredients and home-made dough that matures for 48 hours for a lighter taste,” Michael says. “We also serve brunch at the weekend.”
Histoire sans faim – histoiresansfaim.ch Parc du Loup 5A, Lausanne
14 LAUSANNE IN MOTION | TOP NEW SPOTS
FOR THE LOVE OF BRUNCH
Latte, matcha or mimosa? Scrambled eggs, pancakes or toast? At the weekend, people love taking time out to relax in a friendly atmosphere over a hearty meal blending the pleasures of breakfast and lunch. In Lausanne, you won’t have any trouble finding plenty of places to go. Below, four brunchers reveal their favourite spots (reservations are highly recommended).
Véronique Martinet, 64, recently retired
“I’ve been coming to Le Pointu since it opened seven years ago. I love what they’ve done with this historic café where I used to come with my grandfather when I was a child. It’s got a wonderful energy, and the staff is really friendly. I come three or four times a week to enjoy their excellent oat milk cappuccino, and I brunch at Le Pointu with friends once or twice a month. The food is so good, gorgeous and generous! I’m vegan and, even though they don’t have a vegan menu, they always whip up something delicious for me. I order a bit of one dish or another, savoury sandwiches, soup, etc. My friends go crazy for the pancakes and French toast.”
Le Pointu – le-pointu.ch Rue Neuve 2, Lausanne
Yacine Bennafla, 28, personal trainer
Ken Steinegger, 40, ophthalmic surgeon
“My partner and I have been going to East Side Pully for four years for the food and the hospitality of the owners, Séverine and Joseph. Now that we’re parents, we go even more often, because it’s very kid-friendly. I love the fact that it’s both a restaurant and a bakery, and that everything is made on the premises. The cinnamon rolls and pains au chocolat (chocolate croissants) are our top recommendations. We have breakfast there once every couple of weeks and brunch about once every two months. The menu has a lot of variety, with some American specialities, because Joseph is American. My favourite dish is the East Side Breakfast burger.”
East Side Pully – eastsidepully.ch Avenue Général-Guisan 4, Pully
“Ever since I discovered L’Impression Café five years ago, I’ve been brunching there almost every Sunday, and sometimes on Saturdays too. They have a variety of dishes, and the food is not processed. Everything is delicious: the burger, the healthier plates, the omelettes, the avocado toast, the drinks and especially the white chocolate pancakes! As a personal trainer, I think it’s important to be able to combine pleasure and good nutrition like this. The service is outstanding, and it’s very friendly. The tables are close together, which creates a warm atmosphere and sparks conversations between customers.”
L’Impression Café – limpressioncafe.com Avenue Louis-Ruchonnet 15, Lausanne
Zoé Bolognini, 20, on sabbatical
“I’ve been coming to Café de Grancy three or four times a week for over three years now. It feels like home to me: my parents used to take me here when I was a child! I have brunch here about every two months, preferably on a Sunday. My favourites are definitely the berry pancakes and the “all chocolate”, a delicious lava cake with a molten centre. For savoury dishes, I recommend the burger and the beef tartare. I also love the atmosphere. You can’t leave this restaurant without a smile on your face. The servers and customers are great! There are people of all ages. We always chat and have a laugh together.”
Café de Grancy – cafedegrancy.ch/page-anglaise Avenue du Rond-Point 1, Lausanne
15 LAUSANNE IN MOTION | STREET INTERVIEW
LAUSANNE’S ON-SCREEN PRESENCE
The Vaud capital has had a role in everything from an Oscar-winning Netflix film to a Whitney Houston music video. Read on for more examples.
By Trinidad Barleycorn
Lausanne in a Wes Anderson film?
In The Wonderful Story of Henry Sugar, released on Netflix in late 2023 and winner of the Oscar for Best Live Action Short Film in March, the city may not be visible on screen, but it plays an important role. Roald Dahl’s original text referred to “the lovely hillside above Lake Geneva”. That is where the hero deposits the millions he won at the casino with his special talent: the ability to see through cards. He then donated the money to orphanages.
“Lausanne has been the setting for many films, such as Le grand soir, Merci pour le chocolat and L’amour est un crime parfait (see Lausanner 12 – ed.), but it is not mentioned so often,” says Pierre-Emmanuel Jaques, lecturer and researcher in film history and aesthetics at the University of Lausanne. “We hear more about Geneva and Zurich, which are more international and easier to identify.”
When the capital of Vaud is mentioned, emphasis is often on its panoramic views or its image as a small town where life is good.
Even the 2014 film The November Man, which was actually shot in the Balkans, perpetuates this image. Based on the novel There Are No Spies, the film contains a scene that was originally set in Lausanne, where we see secret agent Pierce Brosnan living peacefully on a lakeside. Even though the caption says he is in Lausanne, the surrounding landscape is actually the region of Perast, in Montenegro.
The real Lausanne, however, likes to keep a low profile, creating a bond with those privileged enough to know the city. “In a scene from Alain Tanner’s Le Milieu du monde, people who know Lausanne recognise the city because you can see Bel-Air Tower in the background,” says Pierre-Emmanuel Jaques. In Luis Buñuel’s That Obscure Object of Desire, a sequence shows the Beau-Rivage Palace. Another cameo, this time in music, is in the video clip for the 1987 pop hit “I Wanna Dance with Somebody”, where we see Whitney Houston arriving at the Lausanne Palace. Or on television, in the French version of the Columbo episode “Now You See Him”: the magician The Great Santini, trying to disguise his true identity, imitates several accents, before saying “I could also take on a hint of a Lausanne accent,” with a semblance of Vaudois intonation that does not faze the famous lieutenant.
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Benedict Cumberbatch in The Wonderful Story of Henry Sugar. This short film, also starring Ben Kingsley and Dev Patel, earned director Wes Anderson his first Academy Award.
LAUSANNE ALSO INSPIRED THESE ARTISTS:
In 1934, F. Scott Fitzgerald mentioned the city 13 times in his book Tender Is the Night, which he wrote in part during a stay at Hôtel de la Paix in Lausanne.
In 1986, singer Alain Bashung opened Helvète Underground with “fondue enchaînée sur la baie de Lausanne” (a play on words between fade out, which is “fondu enchaîné” in French, and the culinary speciality “fondue”).
In the 1995 song Daddy’s Car, Swedish group The Cardigans imagines a trip “from Luxembourg to Rome, from Berlin to the moon, from Paris to Lausanne, from Athens to the sun”.
Writer Emylia Hall makes Lausanne the setting for her 2014 novel The Swiss Affair. Rapper Oxmo Puccino names Lausanne at the end of his 2015 song Doux or Die
In the “Meurtre sur le lac Léman” (Murder on Lake Geneva) episode of the French television series Meurtres à..., which aired in 2016, the Thonon police work with the Lausanne police.
In the same year, in Moka, with Nathalie Baye and Emmanuelle Devos, Swiss director Frédéric Mermoud transposed the plot of the eponymous novel, originally set between Paris and Biarritz, to between Lausanne and Evian.
SMALL CHAPEL, BIG HISTORY
One of the oldest churches in Lausanne is tucked away on the Maladière roundabout, sheltered from view by the trees.
The tiny, discreet, little-known Maladière Chapel, located on the Maladière roundabout in Vidy, has survived the centuries going practically unnoticed. This is due to its simple architecture. Apart from its pointed-arch doorway, it has thick walls, three skinny windows and a small arched bell tower.
Yet the Gothic edifice still carries the marks of its rich, but sad, history. Built between 1461 and 1486 on Gallo-Roman foundations and dedicated to Saint Lazarus, the patron saint of lepers, it stands as a reminder of how people with leprosy in the Middle Ages were banished to these maladières, or leprosy hospitals. The chapel was the leprosarium, or leper colony, for the city of Lausanne. “As the patients lived on public charity, leprosaria were built outside towns, but close to a road, in this case the road to Geneva,” says Bernard Andenmatten, Professor of Medieval History at the University of Lausanne.
The chapel survived the closure of the leprosarium in 1638, which became a scaffold depot for Vidy, explains monument historian Marcel Grandjean in Volume 1 of Monuments d’art et d’histoire du canton de Vaud. Prisoners, including Major Davel in 1723, stopped here for their final prayer.
Later, the final vestige of the canton’s leprosarium was slated for demolition but ended up being saved in the late 19 th century thanks to the painter Charles François Vuillermet, a fervent defender of Swiss heritage. It was listed as a monument in 1900 and restored twice.
“Several parish churches that predate Maladière Chapel have been destroyed or completely transformed, such as Église Saint-Laurent. That makes it, along with the Cathedral and Église Saint-François, completed in the 13th century, one of the oldest churches in Lausanne,” Bernard Andenmatten adds.
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Carole Bouquet and Fernando Rey in That Obscure Object of Desire, released in 1977.
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THE HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, PIONEER OF ROMAND TOURISM
The opening of the Hôtel d’Angleterre in 1779 marked Lausanne’s entry into the era of modern tourism.
French-speaking Switzerland has always drawn intellectuals, such as French philosopher Voltaire, who fled here during the Age of Enlightenment. Lausanne also attracted celebrities such as Madame de Staël, Mozart and the English historian Edward Gibbon, who settled here in 1783. “Following in their footsteps, Lausanne became an artistic and literary haven in the Lake Geneva region. The enlightened elite would stop off here to enjoy the beauty of the lake and the intellectual emulation that permeated the city,” says Laurent Tissot, professor emeritus at the University of Neuchâtel and a specialist in the history of tourism in Switzerland.
OLDER THAN THE UNITED STATES
These first tourists, most often aristocrats and upper middle bourgeois, generally preferred to travel by boat to avoid bumpy rides in horsedrawn carriages. The town therefore adapted to these new travellers, who wanted to escape the steep streets in the city centre to be closer to the lake. The hamlet of Ouchy, once populated by a few rare boatmen and fishermen, initiated its transformation. In 1775, two years before the United States Declaration of Independence, the construction of the Logis d’Ouchy – which would later become the Hôtel d’Angleterre –began, overseen by the architect Abraham Fraisse. Inaugurated in 1779, the first prestigious hotel in the Lake Geneva region went on to become one of the first major hotspots for the emerging tourism industry in the Alps and along Lake Geneva.
The building, with its Baroque-style façade, was also graced by the likes of Goethe and Lord Byron. The English poet might never have stayed there in 1816 had it not been for a storm while he was sailing on Lake Geneva that forced him to head back to Lausanne. We can only imagine that Byron must have been enraptured by the site, as it was in his hotel room that he completed one of his most famous poems, The Prisoner of Chillon.
Around the Logis d’Ouchy, renamed Hôtel de l’Ancre in 1820 before taking the name Hôtel d’Angleterre in 1860, “the entire southern section of Lausanne was gradually reshaped,” Laurent Tissot explains. In 1823, the Guillaume Tell, Switzerland’s first steamboat, docked at the hotel’s pier. Construction of the quays began in 1857. The Beau-Rivage Palace opened four years later. In 1893, Château d’Ouchy, built on the ruins of a 12th-century castle whose tower still stands, came in as the third in the triumvirate of Ouchy’s luxury hotels. Founded the same year, Lausanne Hospitality School made the Hôtel d’Angleterre its base.
In the aftermath of World War I, Hôtel d’Angleterre began to lose its clientele to its luxurious neighbours. Completely renovated between 2000 and 2002 following its purchase by the Sandoz family foundation (which today also owns the Beau-Rivage Palace and the Château d’Ouchy), it has been restored to its former glory. And that means it can soon celebrate its 250th anniversary in style.
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IN MOTION | HISTORY
LAUSANNE
GRAFFITI: A FRESH WAY TO EXPLORE LAUSANNE
Since 2009, Lausanne students have decorated some 350 electrical cabinets throughout the city. The book “ElectriCity” looks at the challenges involved in the project and suggests three walks for admiring these urban works of art.
On the corner of avenues Marc-Dufour and Cécil, an electrical cabinet is painted with a whimsical cake, its white icing dripping irreverently onto the asphalt.
Electrical cabinets or boxes are necessary for the supply of electricity. Most often, they are painted in some unostentatious shade of grey. But not in Lausanne! So far, 350 of these structures have been embellished with original decorative art in lively colours. These works have all been created by pre-apprentices from the Centre d’orientation et de formation professionnelles (COFOP), a vocational guidance and training centre. “The purpose was to get young people involved in a project to enhance urban space, using graffiti as a medium,” says Jean-Yves Pidoux, who was head of Services industriels de Lausanne (SIL) from 2006 to 2021. He came up with the idea for the project along with Pascal Jaquet (known by his pseudonym Sapin), a teacher at the COFOP and professional graffiti artist. The students, aged between 15 and 18, create the designs during their drawing lessons. “Apart from a few restrictions due to, for example, intellectual property rights, the students can express themselves freely. These cabinets provide an outlet for them to articulate their identity and their criticism of the city.”
In addition to featuring on the city’s Services industriels website, several exhibitions on these cabinets have showcased the project. “This encouraged us to present some of the cabinets in a different way.” The result is a book, ElectriCity, published at the end of 2023. It covers a wide selection of the works and gives a voice to the budding artists. For example, Joëlle states, “We helped to make the city brighter, give it more character, make it more interesting.”
The three walks included in ElectriCity, lasting 90, 100 or 140 minutes, take tourists and locals into districts of Lausanne that virtually no one ever visits. “It’s all about how people view the city,” Jean-Yves Pidoux says. “These unique itineraries take people to see between 41 and 55 cabinets, and are intended to give a different perspective of Lausanne.”
ElectriCity, Antipodes, 112 pages, available at the Fnac in Lausanne and at Payot, price around CHF 20.
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TASTES OF ITALY IN OUCHY
In each edition, The Lausanner introduces you to a different stall from Lausanne’s markets. We caught up with Dario Grillo who for the past three years has been spicing up the summer market in Ouchy with his quality products and infectious good vibes.
Interview by Laurent Grabet
Originally from Naples, 35-year-old Dario Grillo came to Lausanne in 2014. Four years ago, he started his company AgriFrais, a regular at the Ouchy lakefront market. He also has a fruit and vegetable store in Crissier.
What products do you sell at this market?
Dario Grillo: Most fruit and vegetables, depending on the season: apples, strawberries, cherries, bananas, tomatoes, aubergines, spinach, parsnips and more. I sell around 60 different items. I buy from five small local producers, but I also continue to import a few quality products, mainly from southern Italy, such as cime di rapa (broccoli leaves – ed.). I have a lot of respect for farming as a profession. It’s a wonderful and tough job, but a meaningful one! As for us, we’re always here at the market, come rain or shine. It’s a basic rule of customer loyalty.
What do you like about fruit and vegetables?
They’re products you can touch and smell. You can pretty easily tell the quality. With my wife Erica, we offer pesticide-free produce at the markets and in our shop. Most of them sell for less than 10 francs a kilo. With us, you can rediscover the real taste of things that has all too often been lost.
How did you get started?
Through a farmer, a cousin of my father-in-law who is originally from Sicily. We would regularly import two pallets of oranges, mandarins and lemons from there. The taste of this citrus fruit was so different from what you usually get from supermarkets that the stock sold out before it even arrived in Switzerland. That gave me the idea to sell other products. Today, we do markets in Lausanne, but also in Yverdon, La Tour-de-Peilz and Fribourg, and we also supply restaurants in Lausanne, such as Da Carlo, Quintino, Forbici
and La Poesia, as well as the Starling Hotel Lausanne, the Hôtel des Alpes in Savigny and Clinique La Prairie in Montreux.
What do you enjoy most about the Ouchy market?
I like setting up my stall at 7, when it’s quiet, with the morning light. You can see the occasional boat on the lake. It’s the soothing feel. Quite a contrast with the market hours that follow! Up to 150 customers come by my stall, many of them tourists. I love introducing them to Swiss products such as certain root vegetables. I also have a lot of regulars. Their loyalty is incredibly rewarding. I’m thrilled every time I see a customer come back! Plus, you might add that I love talking to my customers. This sharing is what makes markets so special. On Wednesdays, I also go to the Saint-François market and on Saturdays to the one on Rue Centrale.
Ouchy Sunday food market
Allée des Bacounis
From April to September
Every Sunday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Dario Grillo sells his fruit and vegetables on the lakeside every Sunday. He also has a stand at the city centre markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
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“THEY WANTED TO GO TO EVIAN BY METRO”
Fabienne Pazeller, “City Expert” at the Lausanne Tourist Office, receives some unusual requests. She tells us about her day-to-day experience.
Interview by Erik Freudenreich
Located right next to the Lausanne train station and the entrance to the Plateforme 10 arts district, the new tourism office is handy for setting up a tour of the city or buying local products or tickets for cultural events. This is Fabienne Pazeller’s place of work. Interview.
How do you become a “City Expert”?
Fabienne Pazeller: You have to know Lausanne inside out, and love the city and its history. Being multilingual is another plus. You should be warm, friendly and open-minded. When someone walks into our office, we don’t know where they’re from, what language they speak or what questions they might ask. I have the advantage of having always worked in tourism. I used to be a flight attendant and worked in a travel agency. And I’ve travelled myself a lot as a tourist.
What does a typical workday look like for you?
We start by looking at the cultural programming for the events to come. Our office opens at 9 a.m. The first people to walk through the door are often from Lausanne and want to buy an SBB day pass or renew their Mobilis public transport subscription. The first tourists come in a bit later, loaded with all sorts of questions: which sights or museums to visit, where to eat, how to tour the old town, and so on. We also sell tickets for concerts and items such as the Lausanne City Pass and the Lausanne Choco Tour. Finally, our shop sells a diverse range of souvenirs and local products.
What would you recommend to someone who only has half a day to see Lausanne?
I’d recommend starting at the Cathedral and climbing up to the bell tower to enjoy the breathtaking view of the city with the lake and mountains in the background. Other must-sees are the Olympic Museum and the Plateforme 10 arts district with its three museums. The day can come to a close in Le Flon district, with its countless shops, art galleries and restaurants.
We also explain how to make best use of public transport. Swiss tourists are often surprised that Lausanne is the only city in the country with a metro system.
What kind of people do you meet?
Visitors from the world over: United States, China, India, the Near East, and more. We also have many visitors from neighbouring countries, such as people from France who come by boat to visit the Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts. During major sporting events, we are also lucky enough to welcome athletes who are interested in information on activities the city has to offer.
What do you like about your job?
People are always very appreciative. They come back to thank us, with a smile on their face, and that makes our job worthwhile.
What are the most unusual questions you’ve been asked?
Once I was asked if it was possible to take the metro to Evian, on the other side of the lake. People are also very curious about the Cathedral’s night watchman. They want to know if there is really someone shouting out the hours. We sometimes get funny calls, such as “Hello, I’m lost, can you tell me where I am?” or “Have you received any perch fillets?”.
Are there any activities you’ve discovered through your work?
Yes, the opera is one example. I’ve been living and working in Lausanne since 2008, and I’ve also taken part in all the city-led running races, like the Lausanne 20KM and the Wake up and run.
Do you have three places that you like in particular to recommend to us?
The Great Escape bar, because you can go there to meet new people or catch up with old friends. I like the shop Viva Frida, which features a selection of jewellery and accessories by original designers. You’re sure to find something if you’re looking for a gift! A restaurant I really enjoy is La Parada, on Rue du Tunnel. I love the look of the place and its Latin American-inspired cuisine, with a variety of colourful dishes of the day. Every time I go is a different experience.
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IN MOTION | BEHIND THE SCENES
LAUSANNE
LAUSANNE ROLLS OUT THE RED CARPET
Dance. Cinema. Sport. Politics. Celebrities visiting the city remind us that the capital of Vaud marks its name in many fields.
CLAUDE LELOUCH
Forty-three years after immortalising Maurice Béjart’s choreography to Boléro in his film Les Uns et les autres, the French director relived the emotion during a rehearsal of the Béjart Ballet Lausanne in preparation for the Rencontres 7e Art Lausanne festival.
In March, dance and cinema joined together for the Rencontres 7e Art Lausanne festival, this year under the theme “Let’s Dance!”. Claude Lelouch was the guest of honour, presenting Les Uns et les autres, his 1981 film featuring a legendary final sequence in which dancer Jorge Donn magnificently brought to life Maurice Béjart’s choreography to Maurice Ravel’s Boléro.
Just before the screening, Claude Lelouch was invited to meet the dancers of the Béjart Ballet Lausanne and its current artistic director, Julien Favreau. “As we are presenting Boléro at the Théâtre de Beaulieu from 14 to 20 June 2024, we had the idea of inviting him to one of the rehearsals, as we weren’t sure if he could attend a performance,” explains Margaux Zeler, head of communications for the dance company, which was founded in the capital of Vaud in 1987.
Claude Lelouch said he was “very moved” to share in this “great life experience”. After the rehearsal, he also confided in the company his love of dance, “I’ve always regretted not being able to dance. Boléro is surely the music that is closest to our hearts. It’s like our heartbeat. It doesn’t even pass through the brain, it’s completely irrational. And you’re very lucky to be able, with your body, to go to the very end of that sensation.”
“A dream weekend”
There was no shortage of excitement at the Rencontres 7e Art Lausanne. Among the guests, directors Jacques Audiard and Barbet Schroeder received lifetime achievement awards. Singer M, aka Matthieu Chedid, performed to a packed house at the D! Club, and actress Karin Viard, who came to present Lulu femme nue, described her stay as a “dream weekend” on Instagram.
American composer Justin Hurwitz, who won two Academy Awards in 2017 for his score to La La Land, also took part in the festivities, conducting the Sinfonietta symphony orchestra from Lausanne at a screening of the film. That was before setting off to enjoy his very first visit to Switzerland to play tourist. He could be found taking part in the visit organised by the festival to the Chaplin’s World Museum.
Justin Hurwitz next to the Charlie Chaplin statue at the entrance to Chaplin’s World.
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Claude Lelouch (left) and Julien Favreau.
PHARRELL WILLIAMS
The author of the hit “Happy” and artistic director of Louis Vuitton Hommes visited the Olympic Museum on 19 December, accompanied by the president of the International Olympic Committee (IOC), Thomas Bach, newspaper 20 Minutes reported. The American musician also took the time to pose for selfies with the staff. Was he looking for inspiration for a future collection in the year of the Paris Olympics? The Olympic Museum offered no further information, explaining that the artist had come for “personal reasons”.
STÉPHANE BERN
The Villa Mon Repos, located in the park of the same name, will be featured in a programme broadcast on France 2. In the run-up to the Paris Olympics, star presenter Stéphane Bern shot a segment on Baron Pierre de Coubertin, founder of the International Olympic Committee (IOC), here in February. The building, where he lived from 1915 until his death in 1937, long served as the organisation’s headquarters and acted as the predecessor to the Olympic Museum. The Journal de la Ville de Lausanne reported that, Stéphane Bern received wine and the Lausanne’s official chocolate, made by the Christian Boillat confectionery, as a gift from the City.
The French President stopped off in Lausanne on 16 November 2023, as part of his second official visit to Switzerland, which took him from Bern to Geneva. Accompanied by Alain Berset, then President of the Swiss Confederation, he first visited the Jean Monnet Foundation on the site of the University of Lausanne. The two men then gave a talk to 800 students about Europe, and how to respond to society’s current major challenges. During his first official visit in 2017, Emmanuel Macron also passed through Lausanne, more specifically the Olympic Museum, to defend Paris’s bid for the 2024 Olympic Games.
WE’RE GOING TO MAKE WAVES
In 2013, at the age of 21, University of St. Gallen graduate Alexis Steinmann and his father Thomas created Tomplay, an app that has revolutionised the music experience. This library of interactive sheet music with audio accompaniment (and video for some instruments) can be used to learn to play a piece, choose your tempo, record yourself and annotate your scores. More than 60,000 titles are available in all styles for 26 instruments and vocals. Today, the company based in Pully employs 40 people and has over a million users worldwide.
QUICK-FIRE Q&A
How many museums does Lausanne have? 22 museums for a population of 150,000, from the smallest, the Shoe Museum and its 12 sq. m of exhibition space in the Rôtillon Quarter, to the largest, Plateforme 10, which houses MCBA, Photo Élysée and mudac. With 1,081 museums listed in the latest survey by the Federal Statistical Office in 2021, Switzerland is one of the world’s most museumdense countries per capita.
EMMANUEL MACRON
Stéphane Bern (left) and Lausanne municipal councillor Pierre-Antoine Hildbrand.
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IN MOTION | GAZETTE
Emmanuel Macron (left) and Alain Berset at the University of Lausanne.
LAUSANNE
THE HERMITAGE, THE MEETING PLACE FOR ART AND NATURE
With its beauty straight out of a painting and amazing view overlooking the lake, the Fondation de l’Hermitage museum is celebrating four decades of success.
For its 40th anniversary this year, the Fondation de l’Hermitage will present Masterpieces from the Langmatt Museum, the first exhibition of works from the Langmatt Museum’s prestigious Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collection to travel outside their home in Baden (AG).
The event is a throwback to the Hermitage’s inaugural exhibition in 1984, Impressionism in French-speaking Switzerland, and also marks the 150th anniversary of this style of painting.
“We will also be celebrating our 40th anniversary through cultural partnerships,” says Sylvie Wuhrmann, the foundation’s director. “First, with the Festival de la Cité (the 52 nd edition of the festival takes place in Lausanne from 2 to 7 July 2024, – ed.) with a show that will be performed in front of the Hermitage in early July, as well as a partnership with the Haute école de musique in Lausanne and the Cinémathèque suisse.”
A gift to the City
The adventure of the Hermitage all started back in the 1970s, when the Bugnon family, owners of the land and manor house for over a century, donated it to the City of Lausanne.
The Fondation de l’Hermitage and its museum were formally created in 1984. The estate, which sits majestically on a hill overlooking Lausanne and Lake Geneva, is also home to a bookshop; a farm, which regularly holds talks, seminars and concerts; and a restaurant, L’esquisse.
Once a month, Art & Gastronomy events and Art & Brunch Sundays feature special menus inspired by the collections, for before or after a visit to the museum.
Sylvie Wuhrmann has been curator since 1998 and Director of the museum since 2011. She never tires of the spectacular setting in which she works: “The Hermitage is the meeting place for art and nature. For me, this place and the stunning view from this extraordinary park are the first work of art to explore in any of the exhibitions. It is its unique location that sets the Hermitage apart from a regular museum.”
Les Chefs-d’œuvre du Musée Langmatt (Masterpieces from the Langmatt Museum) from 28 June to 3 November 2024
Fondation de l’Hermitage Route du Signal 2, Lausanne
Hermitage programming and practical information: fondation-hermitage.ch
The Boat by Pierre-Auguste Renoir is one of the Masterpieces from the Langmatt Museum that can be admired at the Fondation de l’Hermitage as of 28 June.
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LEA SPRUNGER, MAKING THE REGION PROUD
On 8 November 2023, the City of Lausanne awarded its Gold Medal to Lea Sprunger, an athlete from Nyon, in recognition of her contribution to promoting the city. Handed out at a ceremony held at the Olympic Museum, the official honour reflects the Olympic athlete’s ongoing dedication to sport and her commitment to helping young people. Lea Sprunger broke the Swiss record in the 400 metres at the 40th Athletissima athletics meeting in 2017 held in the Olympic Capital, her home town where she attended secondary school.
STRESS IN YOUR EAR
In June 2023, the rapper Stress became the first French-speaking artist to perform in MTV’s legendary Unplugged series, these live acoustic concerts were filmed by the American music channel since 1989. As part of this major project, the Lausanneborn musician gave two acoustic concerts at the Schiffbau in Zurich. Accompanied by 30 musicians, he welcomed a host of guest artists, including fellow Lausanne native Bastian Baker. The live album, released at the end of 2023, features 22 tracks and marks his 20 years in music. stressmusic.com
LES JUMEAUX: HOTSPOT FOR JAZZ
Opened at the beginning of the year, Les Jumeaux Jazz Club brings a new musical colour to the lively Le Flon district. With a 300-seat auditorium in the former Les Jumeaux warehouses and nearly 30 rehearsal and recording spaces, the place is a hub brimming with musical creativity, proving that jazz still has a stellar future ahead of it. “The club is a tremendous hit with young and old alike. It confirms that jazz is as vibrant as ever and that the people of Lausanne are open-minded and truly want live music,” says Michael Kinzer, head of culture for the city.
Les Jumeaux Jazz Club – jumeaux.club Rue de Genève 19 and 21, Lausanne
LAUSANNE EXPRESS
Arnaud Dousse, co-founder of the artisanal baked goods and chocolate shop ACarré on Rue Marterey 38, was named world champion of chocolate showpieces in February at the Culinary Olympics in Germany. He also won the silver medal as part of a team, in pastries.
For its 750th anniversary in 2025, the Lausanne Cathedral will be decked out with brand-new lighting. The new installation will reduce the building’s energy consumption by 60%.
Espace artistes femmes opened an exhibition space at Chemin du Reposoir 20. The organisation works to reduce gender inequality in the art world by highlighting the work of women artists.
In Bern this March, Carlo Crisci received the Mérite Culinaire d’Honneur, an award for his lifetime culinary achievement. With his wife Christine Crisci, the chef ran the two Michelin-starred restaurant Le Cerf, in Cossonay, from 1982 to the end of 2019, then helped his employees in pursuing the adventure under its current name, Fleur de Sel.
Published by Antipodes at the end of 2023, the new Revue historique vaudoise (Vaudois Historic Review), entitled Les femmes: quelle histoire! (Women: What a History!), details the life story of extraordinary women of Vaud – some famous, some not – who have impacted the history of the canton.
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After winning her Miss Switzerland title in 2005, Lauriane Gilliéron left for Los Angeles to realise her childhood dream: to become an actress. Since her return to Switzerland, she has been enjoying Lausanne to the fullest and taking advantage of being within reach of European capitals.
Interview by Alexandre Lanz
Actress and now screenwriter and producer, Lauriane Gilliéron grew up in Prilly, near Lausanne. Now she has founded her own production company in the Vaud capital, where she settled after returning from the United States six years ago. The determination in her eyes is only matched by her commitment to animal welfare. She is thrilled that more and more vegan dishes are available at local restaurants and shares with us her favourite places to go.
You lived in Los Angeles for 12 years. Did you miss Lausanne?
“THE REAL LUXURY IN LAUSANNE IS THAT YOU’RE AT THE CENTRE OF EVERYTHING”
Lauriane Gilliéron: I truly realised how much the city meant to me while I was living far away. What I missed most, apart from my family and friends – even though we stayed very close despite the distance – was the breathtaking scenery of Lake Geneva and the mountains. The ocean is gorgeous, but it can be violent and dangerous. I don’t necessarily swim in the lake, but it soothes me. And after 12 years in the Californian sun, I also felt the need to go back to relive the change in seasons.
Why the seasons?
When it rains, we can get excited about the sun coming back out! When the weather never changes, you get the impression that life is standing still. The seasons help me to feel things. For me, Christmas is more meaningful with snow on the ground than being surrounded by palm trees.
How would you describe Lausanne?
The city surprises me with its generous cultural offering. I often go to see my brother perform
at Théâtre de Vidy or Théâtre 2.21. I also love going to the cinema on my own when it’s not too busy, such as Galeries Pathé and legendary small cinemas like CityClub in Pully and the Cinémathèque. What I really like about Lausanne is that you can enjoy spots where it’s calm and peaceful just as easily as you can go to busy places if you want to see people.
What do you show your friends from Los Angeles when they come to visit you? Every time, I feel really proud when I see them in awe with the beauty of this verdant city built on hillsides. I take them to the Cathedral for the sumptuous views. After that, I show them Place de la Palud and the surrounding cobblestone streets dating back 800 years. Then I bring them to the wild, natural lakeshore in Vidy, before hopping on a CGN boat in Ouchy.
What do you like most about Lausanne?
Whether in summer or winter, I love walking in the countryside
28 LAUSANNE IN MOTION | LOCAL
surrounding the city or in parks. Their beauty never ceases to amaze me, especially the Parc du Désert, with its pond and water lilies. The frogs get so noisy during mating season! You can also spot herons there. And in Lausanne, I feel close to Paris and London, cities that are important for me professionally. The real luxury is the feeling of being at the centre of everything.
The past year seems to have been an important one for you professionally! It has! In August 2023, I created 5 pm Productions. I left a bit
LAURIANE’S TOP SPOTS
RACINES
of myself behind in Los Angeles, and the name is a nod to the time of day that connects us. Even on the other side of the world, it’s always happy hour somewhere! I have so much to say and really want to make films, especially when I see all the opportunities for developing projects in Switzerland.
What projects do you currently have on?
I’ve written a short film that I’m going to produce and have a part in. It took me a while to get down to writing it. One of my best friends,
Rue Neuve 11, Lausanne plantbased-racines.ch
VEGAN
VEGETARIAN
L’ÉC(H)O
Rue de Bourg 11, Lausanne restaurant-lecho.com
BLUEBIRD CAFÉ
Rue Centrale 29, Lausanne bluebirdcafe.ch
LEONARDO
Voie du Chariot 6, Lausanne leonardo-barandfood.com
ITALIAN
who’s a co-screenwriter, helped me write the first scene. That got me into the flow of it. Finding the right narrative to express my idea transported me to another world. I’m also co-producer on a feature film where I play the lead. It was written by my screenwriter friend Tiziana Giammarino and directed by Fulvio Bernasconi, director of the series Quartier des banques, in which I had a role. It’s a moving drama about domestic violence and has a strong message. We hope to shoot it this autumn.
“I get my usual fare at this vegan café, which opened in 2016. I like to pick up little things there to eat at home after doing my shopping and going to the market.”
“I love its beautiful view of the Cathedral. This vegetarian restaurant demonstrates that you can have a delicious, hearty meal without eating meat. The place is always full!”
“It’s a ritual with my sister and girlfriends when we feel like going out for a glass of wine. The owner is super friendly and welcomes customers in an atmosphere reminiscent of Paris. The weekend brunch is fantastic.”
“I think it’s the best pizza in town. I love the Neapolitan-style dough. Their vegan pizza with grilled vegetables is delicious.”
LUNCH – BRUNCH
29 LAUSANNE IN MOTION | LOCAL
YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO LAUSANNE
Keen to live like a local and get to know their favourite spots? Then you need the Lausanners – visit thelausanner.ch for the inside scoop.
Coming from a variety of backgrounds, Lausanners share their favourite places to go so that you can enjoy Lausanne life to the fullest. In this issue, we’d like to introduce you to two of them, Michaël Mathys, project and sports programme manager, and Madina Moldosheva, a mum and content creator.
Interviews by Leandra Patané
MICHAËL MATHYS, THE URBAN SPIRIT
Michaël, can you tell us about yourself?
I was born in Lausanne, grew up in the country, then came back to my roots in the city. Outside my work, I have a passion for photography. I love capturing the soul of Lausanne’s streets and architecture. I let my inspiration come naturally, whether it’s a street corner or a reflection of changing light. That’s what allows me to rediscover the city through my lens.
What made you decide to join the Lausanners?
My love for my city. It’s an honour to represent it, and I’m happy to be able to share the secret details of my urban explorations.
What’s your favourite photograph?
The one from the bell tower of the Cathedral overlooking the terracotta roof tiles of the old city and the important sights, like the Bel-Air Tower. Lake Geneva in the background contrasts with the effervescence of the city. I think it’s a unique view that captures the history and natural beauty of Lausanne.
Where can we find you in the summer?
At the many café terraces, especially at The Lacustre for its local dishes and panoramic views. I also like green spaces, such as the Parc de Milan, where you can practise lots of activities, enjoy nature and relax. At the end of the day, I go down to the Jetée de la Compagnie to watch the sunset. The warm tones in the sky and the way the light hits the lake make me want to immortalise them in a snapshot. It’s also the perfect time to enjoy an invigorating swim.
What are your musts for an ideal weekend?
It has to start with coffee at Ça passe crème! followed by a stroll around the city centre market. Weekends are also all about getting together with friends over the tasty signature burgers at Inglewood or the tasty dishes at Étoile Blanche. Sundays kick off with a delicious brunch at Café de Prélaz. I love the seasonal dishes, served in an atmosphere all its own, combining industrial design with lots of plants.
The Lacustre Quai Jean-Pascal Delamuraz 1, Lausanne
Inglewood Boulevard de Grancy 32 and Rue Saint-Laurent 14, Lausanne
Jetée de la Compagnie Pop-up terrace, Jetée de la Compagnie, Lausanne
Ça passe crème ! Boulevard de Grancy 49, Lausanne
Parc de Milan Place de Milan, Lausanne
Étoile Blanche Avenue du TribunalFédéral 1, Lausanne
Café de Prelaz Avenue de Morges 141, Lausanne
30 LAUSANNE IN MOTION
MADINA MOLDOSHEVA, THE CLASSY MOMMY
Madina, can you tell us about yourself?
I’m 28 and I’m from Uzbekistan. Four years ago, after roaming around for a while, I settled in Lausanne. As an active mum with a little whirlwind of energy by my side, my 2-year-old son, these last few years have been a cascade of discoveries and urban adventures. No matter what the weather is like, we walk around the city. We tackle every climb and know all the shortcuts and lifts (see the walk “Lausanne by lift: an easier way to see the city”, in Lausanner 07 – ed)
Elssi Pâtisserie
Avenue de la Harpe 12, Lausanne
Sleepy Bear
Coffee Shop
Rue du Simplon 3A, Lausanne
Centre pluriculturel et social d’Ouchy (CPO)
Chemin de Beau-Rivage 2, Lausanne
Fondation de l’Hermitage Route du Signal 2, Lausanne
Parc de l’Élysée Avenue de l’Élysée, Lausanne
Crêt de Montriond Avenue de Cour, Lausanne
Which places have impressed you the most in terms of culinary experience?
The Elssi artisan pastry shop, in the Sous-Gare district. Their pistachio and orange blossom tartlet is my weak spot. Elssi makes low-sugar, gluten-free and lactose-free desserts. So I can indulge my sweet tooth without feeling too guilty. I like to enjoy my tartlet with my favourite matcha, from Sleepy Bear Coffee Shop, which is right nearby. I love their pink matcha, but they have a variety to suit all tastes.
Do you like Lausanne for what it has to offer culturally?
It has! I love wandering through Lausanne’s museums, going from one exhibition to the next. Our favourite is the Palais de Rumine. I love its precious stones exhibit and the replica of the Plateosaurus dinosaur, which fascinates my son every time he goes there. But recently we had the pleasure of going to see Les Variations Musicales for the first time. This ensemble organises chamber music concerts at the Centre pluriculturel et social d’Ouchy (CPO), featuring big-name guests. The sound volume and length of the show are specifically designed to suit little ones. My son loved it, and I was able to enjoy the music peacefully while sharing his excitement.
Is there an upcoming event that you’re interested in?
I’m always on the lookout for cultural activities in Lausanne. At the end of June, the Fondation de l’Hermitage is hosting the Masterpieces from the Langmatt Museum exhibition. I can’t wait to see it!
You’re a content creator. What’s the best place to capture the perfect shot?
Parc de l’Élysée. You can enjoy breathtaking views of the mountains and the lake, and it’s especially beautiful during the cherry blossom season in March. But there’s also Crêt de Montriond, one of our favourite places to go for a stroll as a family. After a short climb, you get a unique view overlooking the whole city. And between you and me, it’s the perfect spot to admire the Swiss National Day fireworks on 1 August.
31 LAUSANNE IN MOTION
“I need a lot of freedom”
Named Swiss journalist of the year for 2023, Maurine Mercier looks back on when she started out in Lausanne and what motivated her to set off and become a correspondent in war zones.
Interview by Trinidad Barleycorn
Her two-part audio report for Radio Télévision Suisse (RTS) on a survivor of the Bucha killings in Ukraine has once again earned her journalism’s highest awards. But for Maurine Mercier, who is used to working in sensitive areas around the globe, the most important thing is always to give a voice to the witnesses, the heroes and heroines, as she calls them, who are brave enough to tell the unspeakable.
Born in Lausanne to a mother from Quebec, a nurse, and a father from the canton of Vaud, a former lawyer and law professor, Maurine Mercier grew up just nearby in Pully, where she completed her schooling before studying international relations in Geneva and Madrid. After covering the war in the Donbas, then Libya, Algeria and Tunisia, she is now reporting on the war in Ukraine. She granted us this interview by video from her flat in Kyiv. Her demeanour is so casual and humble that we almost forget the risks she takes on a daily basis. That is, until the doorbell rings with a delivery of water supplies: “The tap water is even less drinkable since the bombings,” she says almost apologetically, after accepting the delivery.
When did you decide to move to Kyiv?
Maurine Mercier: I need to live on the ground to feel legitimate, to understand a country and convey its subtleties. Initially, I came to Ukraine for three months in March 2022, but I quickly realised that it would be complicated to leave again because a major international event was going on that could turn into something even bigger. I lead a normal life in Kyiv. I have a flat, my wreck of a car from Tunisia, and a part-time contract with RTS. At the same time, I work with Radio France and RTBF (Radio Télévision Belge Francophone – ed.).
After more than six years in North Africa, was it a tough transition?
I left my heart there, but I leave it in every place I live because I get attached to people. I’d be lying if I said I’d fallen in love with Ukraine. I’m more Mediterranean than Slavic at heart. But I’ve also made friends with people here.
Could another conflict elsewhere make you decide to leave Kyiv?
No, I’m always in it for the long haul. Otherwise, I’d be doing all the wars in the world because they all deserve media coverage. For example, the Israeli-Palestinian conflict: I’ve never set foot in the region. I don’t think I’d have much legitimacy. I’m not running after wars, but instead try to shed light on a situation. I want to one day tell the story of peace in Ukraine. Peace will be difficult, but I hope it comes as soon as possible.
Would you stay in Ukraine after the war?
Not for life, but for a few years, yes. I’m in the country for work, so as long as it seems interesting, and I can do a good job, I’ll stay.
When did you know you wanted to work in journalism?
It wasn’t a calling. I just wanted a job where I would travel. As a teenager, I even thought about being a Club Med organiser! Then I wanted to be a photographer. After university, I tried some humanitarian work. But when I did some internships with international organisations, I realised that it wasn’t my thing. I’m a bit like a wild animal. I’m afraid of hierarchies, big structures, inertia and inefficiency. I need a lot of freedom. That’s when I wanted to become a journalist, and more specifically a radio journalist.
Before you got into radio, you made your debut at TVRL, the Lausanne television station before it became La Télé Vaud-Fribourg.
I landed that job after two years of applying all over French-speaking Switzerland. No one else wanted me! I owe a lot to TVRL and La Télé because they taught me everything: filming, presenting, reporting, how to be resourceful, etc. →
33 INTERVIEW
I couldn’t be doing what I do today without them. I really enjoyed working for the local media, because, even though the pace was frantic, I was out in the field with a report a day. I have an enormous amount of respect for my colleagues who do this over a long period of time.
Any special memories from those formative years? Yes, one of my first interviews was with Daniel Brélaz (former mayor of Lausanne – ed.). I hardly knew how to set up my camera. I had to ask him about a complex tax case, and, even worse, I was afraid of coming face to face with this figure who had been described to me as being pretty hot-tempered. I was trembling when I arrived, but he greeted me and was incredibly sympathetic and helpful. Another subject that left a lasting impression on me was the one I had entitled “Les travailleurs de l’ombre” (Workers in the Dark), about people who, due to their job, were deprived of daylight and sometimes worked in illegal conditions. I was amazed by their courage to speak out despite risking losing their jobs.
“It’s valuable being a woman in this profession.”
What made you decide to become a freelance correspondent in North Africa?
I’ve always had this need to move around that’s been part of me since my childhood, spent between Switzerland and Quebec. I can’t imagine staying in the same place all my life. My mind is not enlightened enough to travel internally, so I do it physically (laughs) ! Having to deal with other ways of doing things, languages and contexts raises you to a higher level. Since I started travelling, the main thing I’ve learnt is that I don’t know anything, and it’s very exciting not to be over-inflated with certainty.
The more I travel, the more stupid I think I am, but I think that’s the best lesson I can teach myself.
What have your trips abroad taught you about Switzerland?
When I come home, I can feel peace and realise how lucky we are. Peace is so precarious. You must savour it. I’ve also learnt to see the beauty of Lausanne, but I’d already seen that shortly before I left. I’d interviewed the photographer Sebastião Salgado, and I told him that I was bored in Lausanne. He made me look at the lake and the Alps and said, “That’s because you’re not looking properly! You need to open your eyes wider.” He made me realise that there weren’t many cities like Lausanne. It’s a gorgeous setting, but I’d been living here so long that I didn’t realise it.
What does Lake Geneva mean to you?
Lake Geneva is my life! It’s the whole story with my dad, Pierre Mercier, the greatest guy in the world. He taught me to sail. I’ve been sailing with him since I was born. He has a little boat moored in Ouchy. To get out of the harbour, as there is no engine to avoid pollution, we paddle. I’ve experienced some of the greatest fears of my life and some of my fondest memories on that sailboat. My father would be embarrassed to hear me say this, but he’s a sort of a Lake Geneva legend! He’s 85 years old and still does the Translémanique single-handed.
34 INTERVIEW
At the Swiss Press Awards in April 2023, Maurine Mercier won the prize for best radio report and the Swiss Journalist of the Year award.
Did you take part in races as well?
I did the Bol d’Or when I was around 13. My sister and I made a hopeless team! But my father was at the helm and I think we set one of the sailing boat records (laughs)
Do you think Lausanne has changed since you left?
Yes, it’s become nicer because there are more and more people and a greater mix of cultures, which makes it more cheerful and lively. I’m very proud to see that. There are also a lot of terraces these days, which makes it even more enjoyable.
Could you get bored there again today?
No, I don’t think so. I might want to come back at some point... But that’s precisely because I’ve learnt to see it differently. I’m very attached to Lausanne. My parents and my friends are there. In any case, I’m never bored when I’m there on holiday. Things are always hectic because I don’t have enough time to see most of my friends. I also appreciate having the mountains nearby. I often go to Valais, and took up ski touring.
What do you bring from Switzerland to Kyiv?
The photos I take of the people I love. I do something I never thought I would ever do: I put them up in my flat so that I always have them in front of me. On my last trip, I also brought back some dried meat from Valais for a Ukrainian friend, as well as some chocolate and cheese.
Readers of the newspaper 24 heures voted you Vaud Personality of the Year in 2023. What does that title mean to you?
It meant a lot to me, first because journalism is supposed to be the most hated profession in the world, but also because, having a double nationality, I felt like I was being adopted (laughs). I’m very Latin and there was always a part of me that felt a bit foreign, because I was too warm, too touchy-feely, too much of all that. I was even criticised for it in my first evaluation at RTS: “Maurine, you too easily become one of them”. But it’s this ability to blend in that is my most useful work tool!
How did you come across the poignant testimony of a survivor of the Bucha killings, who was raped for a fortnight by Russian soldiers? There were a lot of journalists, but not many women reporters. I stayed there for two and a half weeks and approached every Ukrainian woman I saw. They were hard to find because most people had fled. And those who were still there were traumatised. They had just come out of the cellars and hideouts. We had to build trust. It’s a job that takes days and days, but I believe in time. Time means respect for people. My interviewee hadn’t even seen a doctor yet. I wanted her to be able to take care of herself first and to be really sure that she wanted to go public with her story. When you live there, you see the repercussions that witness accounts can have, so you are doubly careful. →
BIO EXPRESS
1981
Born in Lausanne
2005
Master’s in international and development studies
2007-2011
Journalist at TVRL/La Télé Vaud-Fribourg
2011-2015
Radio journalist at RTS (Matinale (morning show) on Couleur 3, then World segment)
2014
Swiss Press Audio Award
2016-2022
Freelance correspondent in Libya, Algeria and Tunisia
2018
Swiss Press Audio Award
March 2022
Moved to Kyiv
2022
Prix Jean Dumur, Prix des Médias francophones publics and Prix Bayeux Calvados-Normandie for war correspondents
2023
Winner of the Prix Bayeux for the second consecutive year. Named Swiss Journalist of the Year, she also won her third Swiss Press Audio Award.
35 INTERVIEW
Does being a woman make your work in war zones more difficult?
No, quite the opposite! In Libya, for example, a male journalist cannot talk to women, and therefore half the population. Female reporters are also in less danger there. I wore a veil and sunglasses, and nobody noticed me. So I escaped the risk of kidnapping, which is very real. Ukraine is not a conservative country, but being a woman is still an advantage on the front lines, for example. Even if there are female fighters, it’s mostly just men and, perhaps it’s machismo, but they’re not suspicious of a female journalist. I may be exaggerating a bit, but it’s valuable being a woman in this profession. There are currently more women reporters and photojournalists in war zones than men.
What motivates you on a daily basis?
The feeling that my duty is to stay and try to narrate at length, even as the interest fades.
HER TOP SPOTS
PARC DE L’HERMITAGE
Avenue Louis-Vulliemin, Lausanne
PARK
RESTAURANT LES ALLIÉS
Rue de la Pontaise 48, Lausanne lesallies.ch
I thank the people who listen to this kind of reporting. It’s the greatest gift we can give to all the people, all the heroes who dare to bear witness. I’m convinced that we have to listen to the pain so that we can make the world a better place.
How do you process all these emotions? By having fun with my friends! Friendship is what keeps me going. I also laugh at the worst with my Ukrainian friends. We tell each other everything, including things that would be difficult to say to people who haven’t gone through the same things as we have. I also force myself to jump rope every day to relieve the stress, and sometimes the anger of seeing people suffer without being able to do anything for them. You have to find a way to unload what you’re living through, but I’m also lucky enough to be a very happy person at heart, so I’m fine. ■
MUSEUM
COLLECTION DE L’ART BRUT
Avenue des Bergières 11, Lausanne artbrut.ch
“I love the parks in Lausanne, especially the Hermitage. I like the fact that they don’t cut all the vegetation, that they leave wild areas.”
“I discovered this restaurant quite recently, during my holidays. It’s a great place! But it’s under threat, because the building is supposed to be demolished. People in the neighbourhood are trying to save it, and I hope they manage to.”
“You come out feeling exhilarated. The ‘crazy’ people are never the ones you think they are. For me, this space is where you can have total freedom, a place that demolishes boundaries in today’s overly standardised world.”
36 INTERVIEW
Five free and festive weekends around ve parks in Lausanne 12 — 13.7 Parc de Mon Repos 19 — 20.7 Parc de l’Hermitage 26 — 27.7 Parc archéologique du Musée romain de Lausanne -Vidy 2 — 3.8 Parc du Loup 9 — 10.8 Parc Olympique July August 2024 gardenpartieslausanne.ch Illustration Alexandre Borgeaud
LAUSANNE TAKES THE PLUNGE
Texts
Julien Crevoisier Illustrations Aurélien Barrelet
THE DOSSIER
This summer, the lakeside will not only be catering to swimmers, walkers and water sports enthusiasts, but also serving as the venue for the seventh editon of Lausanne Jardins. The urban landscape architecture event revisits the enduring relationship between Lausanne and water.
Water is part of the scenery in Lausanne. From the heights of the city, the blue expanse of the largest of the Alpine lakes stretches as far as the eye can see. More discreet, but just as emblematic, are Lausanne’s rivers. The Flon, the Louve (covered over in the 19 th century) and the Vuachère sculpted the watershed to form the hills and valleys that give the city its distinctive terrain. The lakeside, buzzing with refreshment stands, beaches and marinas, gives the city a seaside resort vibe.
The city has always had a strong attachment to water and its virtues. The rise of tourism in the mid-19 th century gave Ouchy –annexed to the city of Lausanne a few decades earlier – the renown it still enjoys today.
WATER IN SUMMER ALSO MEANS:
– Walks along the lakeshore path that crosses the city, stretching from the banks of the Venoge river in SaintSulpice all the way to the old town of Lutry, the gateway to the Lavaux wine region.
– Picnics and barbecues in Parc Louis Bourget in Vidy, a vast green space along the lakeshore, built for the 1964 National Exposition.
– The Compagnie Générale de Navigation (CGN) on Lake Geneva offers cruises on one of its Belle Époque boats dating from the early 20th century. From April to September, CGN boats provide daily services from Lausanne-Ouchy’s Pier to Vevey, Chillon Castle, and the medieval village of Yvoire in nearby France.
“Spring water drew foreign tourists, especially from England,” says Diana Le Dinh, curator at the Musée Historique Lausanne. “This period is also when the lake became popular for swimming. Les bains Rochat, an enclosed swimming facility, where people could enjoy the benefits of the water in a secluded setting, away from public view, was established in 1861 between Parc du Denantou and Hôtel Beau-Rivage.”
Even today, the city and water meet at a diverse range of contact points: in green parks, on rocky lake shorelines, on the banks of the small lake in Sauvabelin Park, or quite simply at one of the city’s 300 fountains (see infographic on pages 50-51).
– Swimming at Bellerive-Plage, a large complex of 1930s functionalist architecture, where you can combine the pleasures of the beach with swimming in the pool.
– The many water sports and activities available on the lake.
39
CAMILLE LOSSERAND LIFE RIDING THE WIND
World champion in big air kitesurfing, a sport combining speed, jumps and acrobatics, she travels the world’s beaches to perform her finest tricks. The Lausanne native looks back on her story on the water and her bond with the region where she grew up.
Water and wind are her two elements. At the age of 20, Camille Losserand already has an impressive list of achievements to her name. After winning her first title at the Spanish championships in 2021, the kitesurfer went on to clinch a series of victories and podium finishes before reaching the top spot in June 2023. The young athlete won the Big Air World Championships in Tarifa, Spain, with a trick she had never performed before. This year, she intends to take part in all the disciplines of the GKA Kite World Tour and defend her world title in June 2024.
Although she now travels beaches the world over –from Spain, where she spends six months a year, to Brazil, Cabo Verde and Morocco –the Lausanne native maintains strong ties to her hometown.
How did you get into competition?
It was a bit by chance. Some family and friends with whom I was on holiday in the south of France pushed me to try kitesurfing, convinced that I was going to love it. They weren’t wrong. One thing led to another, and what started out as just a pleasure became a passion that I wanted to devote myself to entirely. Naturally, the desire to take part in competitions soon followed.
Your sporting accomplishments have been abroad, but you grew up in Lausanne, close to the water. What role did being close to the water play in your career? If I hadn’t lived near a large body of water, I certainly wouldn’t have continued long enough to attain the level I’ve reached today. I kitesurfed on Lake Geneva for several years. Even after I started competing
at an elite level, I spent several months in Lausanne during the Covid pandemic, and I took the opportunity to train on Lake Geneva and other lakes in Switzerland.
Where are the best kitesurfing spots in the region?
I admit that I have a slight preference for Saint-Sulpice’s beach, because that’s where I used to train when I was younger, but there are some great places all around Lake Geneva. A little further away, I’d also recommend Yvonnand, on Lake Neuchâtel.
INTERVIEW
40 THE DOSSIER
“I admit that I have a slight preference for Saint-Sulpice’s beach, because that’s where I used to train when I was younger.”
The most important thing for a good experience is to find the spot with optimal weather conditions on the day you go.
Apart from kitesurfing, are there any other sports you enjoy?
When kitesurfing season is over, I like being able to disconnect from the sea for a while and get back into other sports. When I’m back in Lausanne, I like to play tennis and I take advantage of being near the Alps to ski and snowboard regularly. I’ve even tried snowkiting, which combines the fun of kitesurfing with the pleasure of gliding on the snow.
WATER SPORTS IN LAUSANNE
The region’s kitesurfers love the beaches of Saint-Sulpice and Préverenges, just to the west of Lausanne. Slightly further west, in Morges, the Kite School Léman offers boat trips to practise kitesurfing away from the shore.
If you prefer to see how you measure up at wake sports such as water skiing and wakeboarding, you can hop on a boat at the Ski Nautique Club Lausanne (departures from the landing stage by Haldimand Tower). In Lutry, the Osmosis Wake Club will also take you out to carve some waves.
CAMILLE’S TOP SPOTS
Crêperie La Chandeleur Rue Mercerie 9, Lausanne
“For crepe lovers like me, this place is a must. They’re definitely the best in town!”
Le Café du Grütli Rue Mercerie 4, Lausanne
“I go there to indulge in a fondue or raclette. After spending months abroad, it’s always great to rediscover Swiss specialities in a cosy restaurant.”
Lutry lakeside
“My favourite place to unwind during a walk by the lake.”
THE DOSSIER 41
OUCHY
ON QUAI DE BELGIQUE AND QUAI D’OUCHY
This is Lausanne’s easternmost waterfront. Located between Château d’Ouchy and Haldimand Tower, Quai de Belgique and Quai d’Ouchy connect city emblems such as Beau-Rivage Palace and the Olympic Museum. These embankments offer breathtaking views of the Vaud, Valais and Savoy Alps.
From mid-May to mid-September, the route is closed to motor traffic at weekends. The shoreline is covered in rocks, but from Port d’Ouchy you can hire pedalos and small motorboats to take out onto the open lake water. Or you can walk out on the wooden platform to go for a quiet and effortless dip.
From the Olympic Museum, three alcoves along the lakefront provide access to the water via small staircases. At one of them is Côté Lac, a summer lakeside bar opened in 2022, where you can go for refreshments or simply to unwind between two swims under the shade of nearby trees. The menu includes cold drinks, limoncello spritz, beers and Mediterranean mezze.
David Morand, one of the four partners who run the establishment, believes that providing a space where people can get together in this idyllic setting is a real privilege.
“Restaurants are the last social bastion of our time,” he says.
1 Buvette Côté Lac 2 Guinguette de Vidy 3 Jetée de la Compagnie and Le Minimum 1 1 3 2 42
“Having this establishment by the lake is a way of inviting people to come together around a concept that aims to protect the peaceful atmosphere in this part of the city.”
Those who fancy a vibrant evening out by the lake will also love Guinguette de Vidy, with its homemade lemonades and its modern take on hot dogs, or the Jetée de la Compagnie and its neighbour, the Minimum, with their wooden decks that are perfect for contemplating the lake and sunsets on the bay.
2 3 THE DOSSIER 43
GARDENS ON THE WATER’S EDGE
Lausanne’s history has been shaped by its relationship with water. This summer, the Lausanne Jardins event takes a closer look at this resource – both ordinary and precious –to explore its role in the city’s future.
ATLANTIS BATHS
The Atlantis platform, held at the surface by a series of buoys, sinks a few centimetres under the weight of the visitors. When night falls, a glow from the bottom of the bay illuminates the site, revealing its mosaic of colours.
EXHIBITION
THE DOSSIER
A headline event in ephemeral landscape art organised every five years and a showcase for the sustainable urban planning promoted by the City, the seventh edition of Lausanne Jardins focuses on our relationship with water. From 15 June to 5 October, the exhibition’s 40 works will be displayed proudly along the banks of the Lake.
Combining city and nature
The itinerary takes us on a tour of the Jardin nautique (a planted swimming area off the coast of Bellerive-Plage), the Paysages disparus (small islands topped with wild plants arranged along the dykes), which explore the issues of mineralisation and concreting on the lakeshore, and Runway Rains, which presents an irrigation system that waters crops and provides aquatic leisure areas for local residents, to name just a few of the works to be featured.
“The aim is to encourage visitors to question their relationship with the various uses of water, in all its forms, through poetic and sensory experiences,” says Mathilde de Laage, the event coordinator.
As well as restoring the natural beauty of certain sections of land marked by urbanisation, thereby providing spaces to promote biodiversity, the main purpose of the event is to raise public awareness about issues that are likely to worsen, such as water scarcity and overflow. Water is a natural resource
A COMPLEX UNDERTAKING
For its last edition in 2019, Lausanne Jardins featured 25 works. This year, it is presenting 40. But the larger size of the exhibition is not the only factor increasing its complexity. “Some sites are located on the lake and others on land, creating both technical and administrative challenges. The City manages the land, while the lake comes under cantonal authority,” Monique Keller explains.
essential to life but is also perceived as a danger. “To meet the challenges of climate change, we need to rethink water management in cities. Common practice used to be to channel it and drain it away, but we are now trying to retain it by encouraging infiltration into the ground. This approach helps to limit flooding during heavy rainfall and create a cooling effect during heatwaves,” explains Monique Keller, the exhibition curator.
Against this backdrop, the exhibition presents a number of ideas to explore in building a “sponge city”, an urban planning concept that aims to reintegrate the natural cycles of water into the urban environment.
The lake as a source of well-being In Lausanne, water in its natural form is also seen as a major asset for providing spaces for leisure and relaxation. Along Quai de Belgique and Quai d’Ouchy, les Bains d’Atlantis facility takes us back into the history of Les Bains Rochat. In operation from 1861 to 1897, the enclosed structure was built on stilts allowing people to swim in privacy. The site features a floating platform that submerges a few centimetres deeper under the weight of its users and lights up after dark. A few metres further is the floating installation Bains Olympiques. Marked out by buoys, these Olympic baths will allow swimming enthusiasts to train in open water in a site matching the size of an Olympic swimming pool.
In fact, some works did not make the final cut. “Even though they were selected by the jury of the international competition at the beginning of 2023, some installations had to be cancelled, generally due to safety reasons,” says Vincent Osselin, the landscape architect in charge of the project. Despite these setbacks, the building preparation was completed without any major problems.
45 THE DOSSIER
THE DOSSIER
WATER GARDEN
The Water Garden is located near Bellerive-Plage. Crowned with aquatic plants, the coconut and willow fibre structures form a lush aquatic Eden, allowing visitors to rediscover swimming in the lake.
RUNWAY RAIN
Around fifty plants are arranged in rows along the terrace of the BellerivePlage building. A mobile irrigation system, powered by solar energy, will water the plants and refresh visitors.
46
VANISHED LANDSCAPES : LES ÎLES-FOREL
Small wooden islands sustaining willows and reeds, these installations recreate the lakeshore in its natural state. They invite biodiversity to reclaim the site and spectators to question the concretisation of the shoreline.
OLYMPIC BATHS
Located off the Olympic Museum, several 50-metrelong swimming lanes stretch between two modular docks. Now, fans of swimming in the lake can also become Olympians!
KEY DATES
15 June 2024
Event launch and opening celebration at the Théâtre de Vidy with the project creators.
31 August 2024
Opening of “Clou rouge”, an event showcasing the architectural heritage of French-speaking Switzerland, at the Théâtre de Vidy to celebrate the completion of renovation work on the buildings. In partnership with Lausanne Jardins.
5 October 2024
Last chance to enjoy the exhibitions before they are taken down!
Throughout the event
Guided tours and events in relation to the works on display.
47
THE DOSSIER
“I VIEW THE LAKE AS AN OBJECT OF CONTEMPLATION”
American painter Nicolas Lambelet Coleman has roots in Lausanne from his mother’s side. Here, he talks to us about his view of the Lake Geneva landscape and his own “Swissness”.
Born to university professors, Nicolas Lambelet Coleman studied political science and visual arts. Driven by his passion for the arts – which came from his grandmother, a Vaud native who emigrated to the United States to pursue a career as a dress maker and textile artist –he chose to devote himself entirely to painting. Miami, London, Paris, Lausanne –the North Carolina-born painter has attracted audiences on both sides of the Atlantic. In his collection of watercolours, Clear Blue, he depicts his summers spent by the water, exhibiting an atmosphere that is both peaceful and joyous.
Water is omnipresent in your work. What does it symbolise for you?
I think of water in different ways, and I think that’s reflected in my paintings. This multiplicity allows me to project myself to the places that have shaped my life. In Diving into Oregonian Waters, a self-portrait on the shore of a small lake in the United States featuring a harmony of blue and green ripples on the surface, I see water as a space for relaxation. It’s almost an
Self-portrait Le Vaudois by Nicolas Lambelet Coleman.
invitation to swim. In the selfportrait Le Vaudois, I depict Lake Geneva as a smooth surface, and I’m sitting away from it. Water becomes an object of contemplation, its immensity almost intimidating.
I also wanted to pay tribute to the wide range of tones that the lake offers us, depending on its movement and the amount of sunlight. In La Vaudoise, a portrait of my mother, I portray the lake in much brighter shades.
INTERVIEW
48 THE DOSSIER
You have mentioned Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso as two of your main influences. Are there any Swiss painters who inspire you?
Definitely! Ferdinand Hodler is one of my favourite painters. Several of his works at the Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts in Lausanne are breathtakingly beautiful. A great figure of the avant-garde movement, Alice Bailly (her former painting studio in Lausanne is now home to a foundation named after her –ed.) has also been a source of inspiration for me. In terms of contemporary painters, I’d also mention the Lausanne native Nicolas Party (see his interview in Lausanner 08).
Ferdinand Hodler was very inspired by the Swiss landscape and its lakes, which he clearly loved for their grandiose yet welcoming quality. Is this also the impression you get from the landscape seen from Lausanne?
Yes, I think that the Swiss landscapes painted by Hodler convey an impression of divinity and of the power of the terrain over man. This symbolism quite
NICOLAS’ TOP SPOTS
Foreign Agent art gallery
Avenue d’Ouchy 64, Lausanne
“I was lucky enough to exhibit my work there between November 2023 and January 2024. Apart from that, I appreciate their rich and varied programme, not only very deeply rooted in Lausanne but also open to the rest of the world.”
clearly reflects the way in which the Swiss view the nature that surrounds them. In North Carolina, where I spent most of my life, the landscape is often perceived as a thing that humans are meant to tame and dominate. In Switzerland, nature is the backdrop against which humans try to carve out a place for themselves, but their presence is secondary.
You are very proud of your plural identity. How would you describe your feeling of belonging to Lausanne? I was born in the United States, to an African-American father and a Swiss mother. Personally, I developed a strong bond with my mother’s home region as we still have family there and we visit regularly. But my sense of belonging often comes up against a more subtle reality when I’m in Switzerland. I feel at home in Lausanne. I know my way around, and I can communicate well enough in French. However, I feel there’s a divide between the way I see myself as Swiss and the way the Swiss see me, i.e.,
Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts (MCBA)
Place de la Gare 16, Lausanne
“I admit, I only visited it recently, but the collection is fantastic. You can find works by local artists that are absolutely amazing.”
as an outsider not native to the region. I’m not saying that with any bitterness. I accept my “Swissness” for what it is, in other words, one part of my identity, but not the only one.
Your painting The Patriot is very much about Swiss identity. In it, you painted yourself enjoying a fondue with white wine. Do you agree that it’s a bit cliché? Yes, the painting is almost a satire. I depict myself to reflect the image that everyone has of Switzerland, at least those who only know the stereotypical façade. Eating a fondue and sipping white wine, wearing a striped shirt, might be the most trivial way of claiming to be Swiss, so much so that anyone can do it. By using this blatant cliché, I’m sort of acknowledging that my Swiss identity is only partial. But it’s also a nod to a culinary tradition that my mother introduced me to at a very young age and that I’ve always loved.
Le Deck Restaurant
Route de la Corniche 4, Puidoux
“It has one of the most spectacular panoramic views I know of. It’s got everything: Lake Geneva, the Alps, Lavaux vineyards. On top of that, it’s a great place to have a drink or go to eat.”
THE DOSSIER 49
FIVE CENTURIES OF HISTORY
Potable Non-potable
Fontaine du Poulain de pierre
(The Stone Foal fountain)
Framed by a basin decorated with two vertical water springs, the statue of the “stone foal” stands on the esplanade of the Parc de Valency, which offers a clear, splendid view of the lake. The fountain was created in 1943 by Lausannenative Pierre Blanc, who also designed several statues in the city, including the wild boar in Parc du Denantou.
SOURCES OF LIFE
For centuries, fountains were the only running water installations in the city. From the Middle Ages to the present day, they have cropped up throughout the city, from the emblematic Fontaine de la Justice, built in the 16th century, to Ignazio Bettua’s contemporary toad statue.
Some of the 300 fountains in Lausanne have become symbols of their neighbourhood, street or building. Here, we take a closer look at six of them.
Fontaines de la Chapelle de Guillaume Tell
(The William Tell’s Chapel Fountains)
On the Promenade de Montbenon, two fountains with three cascading pools are located on the sides of this small chapel, dedicated to the Swiss hero William Tell. Inaugurated in 1917, the chapel was donated to the City of Lausanne as thanks for taking in the soldiers of French General Bourbaki in 1871.
Source: City of Lausanne | Graphic design: Aurélien Barrelet
Fontaine de la Justice (Lady Justice Fountain)
The city’s most emblematic fountain was built in the late 16th century (see also page 54), but the current basin dates from 1726. The statue, an allegory of Justice, was replaced with a copy in 1930. The original is housed in the Musée Historique Lausanne.
RIPONNE
PARC DE VALENCY
TRAIN STATION
OUCHY
FOUNTAINS OF LAUSANNE
PLACE DE LA PALUD
PLACE SAINT-FRANÇOIS
Fontaine du Milieu (Fountain of the Middle)
This fountain is in the form of an imposing monolith with four sides. Protruding from three of them is an elongated spigot. The first written records of this fountain date back to the 15th century, but it did not take its current shape until 1728.
Le Crapaud et la Princesse (The Toad and the Princess) Since 2003, this bronze work by the sculptor Ignazio Bettua has immersed passers-by in the fairy tale “The Frog Prince” by the Brothers Grimm. Will the bronze frog with green eyes that light up at night turn into a prince if you drink the water gushing from his mouth?
DRINKING WATER
THROUGHOUT
IN THE CITY
Fountain of the Olympic Museum
At the foot of the Olympic Park, this fountain has been welcoming visitors to the Olympic Museum since 1993, with its waterfall and jets set against a white marble backdrop. Designed by José Lardet, it is almost 32 metres long, with some 24,000 litres of water flowing through its closed-loop pipes every minute!
The City of Lausanne has begun putting up signs to invite the public to drink water, including from fountains with potable water. An interactive map showing all the water points in the Lausanne region is also available online:
FLON
CITÉ
PULLY
SALLAZ
RIPONNE
EXPLORE LAUSANNE ABOVE THE EYELINE!
Have you ever tried venturing through Lausanne with your gaze turned upwards? The city is packed with treasures overhead –façades, mouldings, statues and ledges –that tell its story.
By Anne-Catherine Renaud
We’re all used to looking down at the steep streets, often in cobblestones, as we navigate our way through Lausanne. But what about shifting your gaze upwards, to admire at the many store fronts, sculptures and other details often perched above the bustle of the city? Our walk mainly explores pedestrian areas, beginning in the city centre on the terrace of Pinte Besson , which opened in 1781 and is one of the ten oldest taverns in Europe and Lausanne’s first restaurant. “On the first floor are two Venetian stained glass windows,” says Carlos Beiro, who has been running the establishment for precisely 20 years. “To the right are the Vaud coat of arms and a soldier with a Swiss flag, and to the left is an ornamental motif inscribed with the names Joss and Blanc, who were the building owners in the 16th century.”
At the corner of the tavern, you walk by a fountain topped with a statue of a fishmonger . The 1940 work is by Milo Martin, a sculptor from the Vaud. Among his other sculptures that grace Lausanne is the statue of the reclining Roman goddess Aurora on Place Saint-François. The fishmonger statue stands before a building with columns. This former police station for officers on horseback and bicycle, which remained in operation into the 1960s, is now a popular new and second-hand vinyl record shop
called Disc-à-Brac. From here, you can wander down the pedestrianised Rue de la Tour , a lively street packed with restaurants and bars, including the craft beer hotspot Cylure.
In the early Middle Ages, when it was located outside the city walls, this street used to be lined with gardens and full of local craftsmen. “If you look up, you can see that the original buildings were all built following the same model: one or two storeys on top of the ground floor,” explains Ariane Devanthéry, a historian specialised in Lausanne culture and the author of several books on the history of travel in Switzerland. “But then, population growth in the 18th century required adding storeys to houses in a different architectural style.”
THE LAST PIECE OF THE CITY’S RAMPART
Stroll along this colourful alleyway to the Tour de l’Ale , built in 1340. This last remnant of the medieval ramparts, destroyed in the 19th century, stands more than 20 metres tall. At the top, six windows are covered with wooden shutters, which could be raised or lowered to block enemy projectiles. In the Middle Ages, soldiers used to be stationed in there.
52
Take a little detour to Place Chauderon , where the head office of the former Crédit Foncier Vaudois –now the Banque Cantonale Vaudoise (BCV) –was built in 1908. Beneath the ledge of the roof overhang are “the coats of arms of the Vaud townships where Crédit Foncier had branches,” the historian explains.
To get to the shops on Rue de l’Ale, look out for the swan on the sign of the Brasserie du Cygne , one of Lausanne’s historic cafés. Opened in 1912, it was named after the swans in the pond next to the “Le Pavillon”, a villa that used to be where the BCV stands today. On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, a market is held in this street, which leads to l’église Saint-Laurent .
PLACE DE LA GARE
“The church was built in Gothic style, but the Bernese, who ruled Lausanne for two centuries, rebuilt it in two phases in the 18th century,” our guide explains. The result is a baroque architecture, as evidenced by the ridge of the main façade with its decorative volutes. The clock, designed in 1765, sits under the bell tower, which is topped by a weather vane in the shape of a rooster. “Back in those days, only the very rich wore a pocket watch, which is why the time was displayed on the main buildings in each district.”
Then head to Place Saint-François via the GrandPont. Église Saint-François was the first church in French-speaking Switzerland to be built with decorative motifs in the Rayonnant style of Gothic architecture. These features show in the flames sculpted in the stone lacework of the two west-facing windows on the north façade. A dovecote was added in 1930, which is open to the public. Two pedestrianised, cobblestone streets intersect at the north-east corner of the square: Rue Saint-François and Rue de Bourg. That is where the building that used to house the Payot bookshop stands and is now home to the jewellery brand Bucherer . Sculpted into the stone at the top and framed by baroque-style flower baskets is the name of the Swiss company Payot Cie, founded in Lausanne in 1835, turning the façade into a gigantic ad.
As you walk down Rue Saint-François , your eyes are drawn to the 18 recently renovated wrought-iron signs that have hung over each shop since 1970. They represent Saint Francis of Assisi. Legend has it he could talk to birds. And he’s actually holding one in his hand!
PLACE DE LA LOUVE
PLACE DE LA RIPONNE
PLACE BEL-AIR
FLON DISTRICT
GRAND-PONT
CITÉ
PLACE DE LA PALUD
PLACE SAINT-FRANÇOIS
PLACE CHAUDERON
PONT CHAUDERON VIGIE
RIPONNEMAURICE BÉJART
CROISETTES→
LAUSANNEFLON
← RENENS
← OUCHY-OLYMPIQUE M1 M2
53 OUTING
COLOURFUL COATS OF ARMS ALIGNED UNDER THE ROOF
After crossing Rue Centrale, walk up to Place de la Palud, dominated by the City Hall bell tower, built in 1675. Under the roof overhang, ornate motifs and two expressive gargoyles sculpted as dragons, added in 1698, catch your eye.
A short tunnel takes you around the building to the charming Place de la Louve, where you can glance at the Annex building of the City Hall , built in 1914. Beneath the ledge is a row of coats of arms in the colours of Lausanne – white on top and red on the bottom. “They represent the five districts of the old city,” Ariane Dévanthéry explains. The symbol of each district is painted on the coat of arms, such as the two towers separated by an archway for La Cité and the gridiron for Saint-Laurent, the symbol of his martyrdom. In fact, in the Middle Ages, the guild of grill owners claimed him as their patron saint, who was burnt with a gridiron in Rome in 258.
Opposite Place de la Louve, a large building dating from the early 20 century still bears the inscription “Imprimeries – Ère nouvelle” (Printers – New Era). It reflects the importance of Lausanne’s printers, who published a large number of works between WWI and WWII, when paper was in short supply in Paris. This opulent building features an architectural blend of Art Nouveau and regionalism. “At the top, the dormer windows underneath the chalet-like roof probably lit the maids’ quarters at the time,” the specialist says. “Between the windows on the top floor are bas-reliefs with soldiers, painted in the Hodlerian style (by the great Swiss painter Ferdinand Hodler, – ed.).”
Time to go back to Place de la Palud. In the centre, the 16th-century fountain
features the statue of Lady Justice – the original has been in the Musée Historique Lausanne since 1930 (see also pages 50-51 ). In keeping with tradition, she is depicted blindfolded and holds scales and a sword. “It’s her raised skirts that are unusual,” Ariane Devanthéry points out. “This detail may symbolise Justice on the march that stops at nothing, or it may mean that Justice has nothing to hide.” Four powerful figures from the period sit at her feet: the Pope, the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire, the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and a burgher, to affirm that no one stands above Justice!
To the east of La Palud, the Escaliers du Marché lead you to the esplanade of the Cathedral. Originally built in wood in the Middle Ages, the stairs were rebuilt and roofed in the early 18th century. “The roof was designed to be high and wide enough for two women carrying baskets on their heads to pass by each other without the baskets falling,” our guide adds. After climbing the famous staircase, your walk ends on the terraces of the Jardins du Vieux Lausanne , a country-style snack bar that opens at the end of the day in the warmer seasons. From there, as night falls, if you look up at the Cathedral, you might catch a glimpse of Alexandre Schmid, Lausanne’s new official night watchman. Like his predecessors since 1405, he calls out every hour between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. from the top of Cathedral’s bell tower. ■
th 54
Quai d’Ouchy 1 CH – 1006 Lausanne olympics.com/museum Temporary exhibition 25 May 2024 –19 January 2025 Free entrance Paris Olympique™ An Immersive Journey Media partners © 1924 / International Olympic Committee ( IOC )
AVENUE DE RHODANIE QUAI D’OUCHY A V E N UE D ’OUCHY AVENUE
RUE
PONT CHAUDERON AVENUE LOUIS-RUCHONNET AVENUE JULES GONIN RUE
GENÈVE RUE DU GRAND-PONT
GARE AVENUEDUTHÉÂTRE PONTBESSIÈRES AVENUE DEDENANTOU AVENUE DEL'ÉLYSÉE AVENUE DEMONTCHOISI
BOULEVARD
GRANCY AVENUE DE COUR AVENUE DE LA HARPE A VENUE DE J U R I G O Z RUE CENTR ALE RUE DE BOURG RUE CÉSARRO U X AVENUE JUSTE-OLIVIER RUE CARO L I N E RUE DE LA BORDE AVENUE DE BEAULIEU AVENUE DES BERGIÈRES AVENUE VINET AVENUEDEFRANCE AVENUE DES BAINS AVENUE DE MILAN AVENUE DE TIVOLI RUE DU PETIT-CHÊNE DÉLICES CGN EMBARCADÈRE LAUSANNE-OUCHY 0 100 m 500 m LAKE GENEVA ↗ 10 ↑ 12 19 75 ↖ 17 26 11 15 28 52 61 76 → 5 7 ← 18 23 57 73 79 80 ← 1 2 3 4 6 8 9 13 14 16 20 20 21 22 24 25 27 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 53 54 55 56 58 59 60 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 74 77 78 56
D’OUCHY
DU TUNNEL
DE
AVENUE DE LA
AVENUE DU MONT-D’OR
DE
THE ADDRESSES IN THIS EDITION
BARS, CAFES, RESTAURANTS
1 Bluebird Café Rue Centrale 29 1003 Lausanne
2 Brasserie du Cygne
Rue du Maupas 2 1004 Lausanne
3 Buvette Côté Lac Quai de Belgique 1006 Lausanne
4 Ça passe crème ! Boulevard de Grancy 49 1006 Lausanne
5 Café de Chavannes Route de la Maladière 40 1022 Chavannes-près-Renens
6 Café de Grancy Avenue du Rond-Point 1 1006 Lausanne
7 Café de Prélaz Avenue de Morges 141 1004 Lausanne
8 Café du Grütli Rue Mercerie 4 1003 Lausanne
9 Café du Tramway Rue de la Pontaise 6b 1018 Lausanne
10 Café du Village Chemin du Ruisseau-Martin 9 1066 Épalinges
11 Chez Antoine Grand-Rue 13 1095 Lutry
12 Chez Tof Chemin de Maillefer 145 1052 Le Mont-sur-Lausanne
13 Crêperie La Chandeleur Rue Mercerie 9 1003 Lausanne
14 Cylure Rue de la Tour 4 1004 Lausanne
15 East Side Pully Avenue Général-Guisan 4 1009 Pully
16 Étoile Blanche Avenue du Tribunal-Fédéral 1 1003 Lausanne
17 Fleur de Sel Rue du Temple 10 1304 Cossonay
18 Guinguette de Vidy Promenade de Vidy 7 1007 Lausanne
19 Histoire sans faim Parc du Loup 5A 1018 Lausanne
20 Inglewood Boulevard de Grancy 32 1006 Lausanne
Rue Saint-Laurent 14 1003 Lausanne
21 Jetée de la Compagnie Jetée de la Compagnie 1007 Lausanne
22 Kerri Bar Rue de la Barre 8 1005 Lausanne
23 L’Abordage Avenue du Léman 67 1025 Saint-Sulpice
24 L’Ec(h)o
Rue de Bourg 11 1003 Lausanne
25 L’Impression Café
Avenue Louis-Ruchonnet 15 1003 Lausanne
26 La Brasserie Millennium Chemin de Mongevon 25 1023 Crissier
27 La Parada Rue du Tunnel 20 1005 Lausanne
28 Le Deck Restaurant Route de la Corniche 4 1070 Puidoux
29 Le Pointu Rue Neuve 2 1003 Lausanne
30 Leonardo Voie du Chariot 6 1003 Lausanne
31 Les Alliés Rue de la Pontaise 48 1018 Lausanne
32 Les Jardins Rue Pierre-Viret 6 1003 Lausanne
33 Lily Bar Rue Chaucrau 10 1003 Lausanne
34 Minimum Jetée de la Compagnie 1007 Lausanne
35 Pinte Besson Rue de l’Ale 4 1003 Lausanne
36 Racines Rue Neuve 11 1003 Lausanne
37 Sleepy Bear Coffee Shop Rue du Simplon 3A 1006 Lausanne
38 The Great Escape Rue Madeleine 18 1003 Lausanne
39 The Lacustre Quai Jean-Pascal Delamuraz 1 1006 Lausanne
CONFECTIONERY
40 Acarré
Rue Marterey 38 1005 Lausanne
41 Elssi Pâtisserie
Avenue de la Harpe 12 1007 Lausanne
42 The Sweet Sage Rue du Flon 12 1003 Lausanne
SHOPPING
43 Bucherer
Rue de Bourg 1 1003 Lausanne
44 Disc-à-Brac Rue de l’Ale 2 1003 Lausanne
45 Tempo Design Store –Mastermade Goods
Rue du Midi 11 1003 Lausanne
46 Viva Frida Rue Sainte-Beuve 1 1005 Lausanne
HOTELS
47 Beau-Rivage Palace Chemin de Beau-Rivage 21 1006 Lausanne
48 Château d’Ouchy
Place du Port 1006 Lausanne
49 Hôtel Angleterre & Résidence Place du Port 11 1006 Lausanne
MUSEUMS, VENUES, CINEMAS
50 Centre pluriculturel et social d’Ouchy (CPO) Chemin de Beau-Rivage 2 1006 Lausanne
51 Cinémathèque suisse Avenue du Théâtre 6 1005 Lausanne
52 CityClub Pully Avenue de Lavaux 36 1009 Pully
53 Collection de l’Art Brut Avenue des Bergières 11 1004 Lausanne
54 D! Club Place Centrale 1 1001 Lausanne
55 Espace artistes femmes Chemin du Reposoir 20 1007 Lausanne
56 Fondation de l’Hermitage Route du Signal 2 1018 Lausanne
57 Fondation Jean Monnet Ferme de Dorigny 1015 Lausanne
58 Galerie Foreign Agent Avenue d’Ouchy 64 1006 Lausanne
59 Jumeaux Jazz Club Rue de Genève 19 1003 Lausanne
60 Le Musée Olympique Quai d’Ouchy 1 1006 Lausanne
61 Musée Chaplin’s World Route de Fenil 2 1804 Corsier-sur-Vevey
62 Musée Historique Lausanne Place de la Cathédrale 4 1005 Lausanne
63 Palais de Beaulieu Avenue des Bergières 10 1004 Lausanne
64 Pathé Les Galeries Rue du Petit-Chêne 27 1003 Lausanne
65 Plateforme 10 Place de la Gare 16-17 1003 Lausanne
66 Théâtre 2.21 Rue de l’Industrie 10 1005 Lausanne
67 Théâtre de Beaulieu Avenue des Bergières 10 1004 Lausanne
PARKS, SWIMMING POOL
68 Bellerive-Plage Avenue de Rhodanie 23 1007 Lausanne
69 Crêt de Montriond Avenue de Cour 1007 Lausanne
70 Parc de l’Élysée Avenue de l’Élysée 1006 Lausanne
71 Parc de l’Hermitage Avenue Louis-Vulliemin 1018 Lausanne
72 Parc de Milan Place de Milan 1007 Lausanne
73 Parc Louis Bourget Route de Vidy 1007 Lausanne
SPORTS
74 Halles sportives de Beaulieu Avenue des Bergières 10 1004 Lausanne
75 Le Cube Chemin du Rionzi 52 A 1052 Le Mont-sur-Lausanne
76 Osmosis Wake Club Route d’Ouchy 15 1095 Lutry
77 Skatepark La Fièvre Avenue de Sévelin 36 1004 Lausanne
78 Ski Nautique Club Lausanne Tour Haldimand, quai d’Ouchy 1006 Lausanne
79 Terrains de jeux de Vidy Route de Vidy 1007 Lausanne
80 Totem Chemin de Verney 5B 1024 Ecublens
TRANSPORTATION
Gare Lausanne-CFF
Place de la Gare
1003 Lausanne
Transports publics lausannois (tl)
m1 Metro
m2 Metro
DISTRICTS
TOWN CENTRE/ RÔTILLON/FLON
CITÉ – MON-REPOS
TRAIN STATION – OUCHY
SAUVABELIN
PULLY
57 REPERTOIRE
UNMISSABLE
essentials on www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/highlights live music docks.ch lausanne
PLACES The
It is around the Cité hill, sculpted by the Flon and Louve rivers, that the medieval town grew.
Its cobble-stoned pedestrian streets as well as its monuments bear witness to this. Then, as soon as you cross the Bessières Bridge, the scenery changes completely. The Caroline district possesses a shopping mall, many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A bit further to the east, the Mon-Repos Park offers a green and tranquil haven, interrupted from time to time by the twittering of birds in its aviary.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
The Cathedral, considered one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in Switzerland, was consecrated in 1275. Don’t miss the rose window, the painted portal, the 13th-century choir stalls, the ancient and modern stained glass windows and the great organs. The bravest will admire the panoramic view from the belfry (entrance fee) after climbing the 224 stairs. Open tours of the Cathedral and free guided tours during the summer.
Within the walls of the Old Bishop’s Palace, this Lausanne historical museum speaks of the town’s rich past and features a famous model that offers an exceptional view of the 17th-century Cité. Temporary exhibitions, inspired by the research conducted on its collections, explore the thousand years of this heritage. A novel approach to the town’s history: smart multimedia!
CITÉ/MON-REPOS
DISTRICTS
LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL LAUSANNE HISTORY MUSEUM
59 UNMISSABLE PLACES
ESCALIERS DU MARCHÉ
A direct but abrupt route between the Cathedral and the town centre, this wooden stairway first mentioned during the 13th century exists in its present form since the beginning of the 18th century:
roofed and winding, with a very steep cobbled street running alongside. An integral part of Lausanne’s popular iconography, it is lined on the west with a picturesque row of boutiques and cafés.
MON-REPOS PARK
Open to the public, it’s one of the most popular parks for Lausanne inhabitants of all ages, with its huge lawns, aviaries of exotic birds, playgrounds and ephemeral sculptures.
DISTRICT TOWN CENTRE
This is where the city’s energy is most animated both by day and night.
From ancient buildings to trendy new districts, tread the cobblestones and broad avenues to make the most of shopping amongst major brands and local designers. It’s also the axis of nightlife with concert halls and an opera, plus bars and clubs that will keep you awake until the early hours of the morning.
Stroll down its various alleys to catch a glimpse of an orangery as well as a neo-Gothic tower overlooking a cave and a waterfall.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
PLACE AND CHURCH
SAINT-FRANÇOIS
Lausanne’s residents like to meet up in this central square dominated by a mediaeval church that has become a hub for music and dialogue with contemporary art in all its guises. The square welcomes every Wednesday and Saturday morning the famous market stands of Lausanne.
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RÔTILLON NEIGHBOURHOOD
In the intertwining lanes of one of Lausanne’s oldest neighbourhoods that was recently renovated, works of art, a Titeuf fresco, small, original shops and bohemian cafés now attract the trendy crowds. One of the trendy new neighbourhoods in Lausanne, the Rôtillon feels like a corner of Italy in the heart of the town.
FLON DISTRICT
It’s the town’s architectural success: this district of former warehouses that begins at the Place de l’Europe was rehabilitated as a living area with a wide array of restaurants, bars, clubs, boutiques, cinemas and exhibition spaces. A must is to enjoy a drink on one of the rooftop terraces.
PLACE DE LA PALUD
A polychrome statue, symbolising justice, stands imposingly on the Renaissance fountain in the centre of this pedestrian square, where the Town Hall is also located. Opposite, tourists and children wait, every hour on the hour from 9 am to 7 pm, for the ballet of animated figures to the sound of the carillon.
MONTBENON ESPLANADE
Making the most of one of the town’s most beautiful openings on Lake Geneva and the Alps, you can lounge on the lawns in front of the District Court, where there is a statue of William Tell, Switzerland’s mythical hero.
PALAIS DE RUMINE
Built at the end of the 19 th century on Place de la Riponne, this Italianatestyle edifice houses a host of treasures in its various science museums, such as the largest taxidermied great white shark in the world.
COLLECTION DE L’ART BRUT
The town created this museum, unique in the world, in 1976 in exchange for the legacy of 5,000 works of outsider art belonging to artist Jean Dubuffet. Located opposite the Beaulieu Palace, this institution today owns over 70,000 works, 700 of which are displayed permanently, and exports its exhibitions all over the world.
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R I V A G E L U T R Y SWITZERLAND Grand-Rue 36, 1095 Lutry 021 796 72 73 @rivage_lutry_switzerland www.hotelrivagelutry.ch EAT & DRINK SWISS
DISTRICTS TRAIN STATION/OUCHY
The neighbourhoods located between the Ouchy quays, by the lakeside, and the Lausanne train station are perfect for a revitalising stroll.
They unveil several green oases, elegant Belle Époque dwellings bordering broad avenues and four internationally renowned museums. Since 2008, the rubber-tired m2 metro has replaced the “Ficelle” (the “String”), which was, in 1877, one of the first metropolitan railways in the world.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
CRÊT DE MONTRIOND & PLACE DE MILAN
Inagurated at the end of the 19 th century, this square’s vast lawns, football fields, playgrounds, fountain and shady alley draw in families in all seasons. Reach the Crêt de Montriond by a winding path to discover a 360° panorama of the Lavaux vineyards, Lake Geneva and Alps.
BOTANICAL GARDEN
This magnificent place, overflowing with flowers and great trees, is located at the foot of the Montriond Hill, a stone’s throw from Milan Park. You can admire close to 4,000 plant species from all over the world. Alpine, medicinal, carnivorous and tropical plants have been brought together in this haven of greenery in the heart of town. The Vaud Museum of Natural Sciences organises science exhibitions during the year.
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BOOKING ON CGN.CH
LAVAUX TOUR A unique perspective on the unesco heritage
OLYMPIC MUSEUM & PARK
Unique in the world, the Olympic Museum forms Lausanne’s main cultural attraction. Each of its three levels is dedicated to a particular aspect of modern Olympism, largely featuring new interactive communication media. You may need several visits to explore everything. In any case, a pause at the Olympic Museum restaurant is welcome, with its terrace on the uppermost floor that offers a splendid view of Lake Geneva and the Alps. In the park, admire the collection of sculptures and test your speed on a proper running track. Strolling through the landscaped terraces, you’ll reach the monument on the shores of the lake.
CRUISES ON A BELLE ÉPOQUE BOAT
For a romantic or gourmet cruise, or simply to cross Lake Geneva, the steamships of the Compagnie Générale de Navigation (CGN) are a must do during your holidays in western Switzerland. Step aboard in Lausanne-Ouchy and sail for instance to Chillon Castle or admire the terraced vineyards of Lavaux, always with the Alps as a backdrop.
DENANTOU PARK
Initially privately held, until opened to the public in 1928, this park was laid out during the 19 th century in the English fashion by a banker. Allow your children to caper about in the wild meadows surrounded by copses, flower bed displays and statues, or to play with the water from the pond. Since 2007, a Thai pavilion with a golden roof adorns this green area; it was given to the town by His Majesty the late King of Thailand in gratitude for the years he spent in Lausanne between 1933 and 1951.
On foot, on a bike or on roller-skates, follow the shores of Lake Geneva from the Old Port to the Haldimand Tower. You’ll discover no less than three major Lausanne parks along your way: the Élysée, the Olympic Park and Park Denantou, as well as the Place du Général Guisan’s rose garden that contains more than 130 different varieties of roses.
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OUCHY QUAYS
T +41 21 341 42 43 - contact@mirabeau.ch - mirabeau.ch Avenue de la Gare 31, CH - 1003 Lausanne * This offer is valid from July 1 to August 31, 2024, subject to availability with PROMO code HMIR_2024_20. Mirabeau's general terms and conditions of sale apply. The art of welcoming you Slow living Get 20%* off your accommodation in July and August 2024 Code promo HMIR_2024_20 Enjoy our terrace Restaurant Bar Terrace Endulge yourselves
PLATEFORME 10
This new arts quarter, one of its kind in Switzerland, is located right next to the train station and is home to three internationally renowned museums: the MCBA, Photo Élysée and the mudac.
This new cultural platform brings together fine arts, photography, contemporary arts and design complemented by the presence of the Toms Pauli and Félix Vallotton Foundations. A welcoming and relaxing venue with catering facilities, its architectural design and the quarter’s atmosphere create a unique urban, modern and lively space.
MCBA – CANTONAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
Inaugurated in 1841, the MCBA is one of the oldest museums in Switzerland to be dedicated exclusively to art. Ducros, Gleyre, Steinlen, Vallotton and Soutter are all Vaud painters who have established the reputation of the Vaud Museum of Fine Arts, both nationally and internationally. The Canton of Vaud’s artistic legacy is a fixture in the museum with nearly 200 works of art on display dating from the 18th century right up to today. The brick building with its monolithic shape pays tribute to the history of the site, which housed the old locomotives’ depot.
PHOTO ÉLYSÉE –CANTONAL MUSEUM FOR PHOTOGRAPHY
Photo Elysée is one of the major museums entirely dedicated to the photographic medium. It addresses the medium’s constant reinvention through the great figures that have left their mark on its history by imagining new ways of seeing or being seen, while revealing emerging photography in a privileged manner. The museum is also the custodian of a unique collection and of several photographic funds, among which those of Charlie Chaplin, Sabine Weiss and Jan Groover.
mudac – MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY DESIGN AND APPLIED ARTS
Resolutely contemporary, the mudac is interested in all forms of design and loves to build bridges between styles. Design, graphics, fashion: the museum challenges accepted notions and casts a fresh eye on art. In its permanent space, it presents the most important collection of contemporary glass art in Switzerland and Europe. As for the temporary exhibitions, they always go where we least expect them to, highlighting in turn ceramics, furniture, as well as media and jewellery.
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DISTRICTS VIDY/UNIVERSITIES
The western part of Lausanne is dominated by the university campus that includes the University and the Federal Institute of Technology.
A location close to the lakeside loved by the 28,000 students who can take part in a broad array of nautical sports.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
BELLERIVE SWIMMING POOL & MINI GOLF
This outdoor swimming pool is equipped with large pools, up to 10-metre diving boards and fun paddling pools for children. Would you rather chill out? Lounge on the large lawns or on the (supervised) beach with direct access to the lake. Restaurants and refreshment stalls on the spot. Next to the pool, the Bellerive crazy golf is an invitation to playful relaxation ideal for families or friends.
Between shoreline forest and meadows, the Louis-Bourget Park is a nature park that hosts a bird sanctuary, a pond bordered with fireflies, a fitness trail and a large playground. It’s also an ideal destination for hot summer evenings: come and use the barbecues and grills set on the lawns before enjoying a game of football or relaxing on Vidy beach! You’ll also meet many walkers strolling on the pleasant path that runs along the lakeside.
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LOUIS BOURGET PARK & VIDY BEACH
OLYMPIC HOUSE INVENTIONS SPACE
With its shape inspired by the movement of an athlete, Olympic House is one of the most sustainable buildings in the world. Designed to reflect the IOC’s overarching mission to make the world a better place through sport, it brings together the entire staff of the IOC – that is 500 employees –under one roof. (Closed to the public.)
ROMAN MUSEUM & GALLO-ROMAN RUINS
The Lausanne-Vidy Roman Museum offers a presentation of the Gallo-Roman Lousonna (Lausanne), as well as various temporary exhibitions. In a bucolic setting that blends greenery, a body of water and ruins, don’t miss the walk around the remains of the Lousonna vicus (village) dating from 15 BC, one of the largest in Switzerland.
The Espace des Inventions aims to stimulate interest in scientific, technical and artistic culture, and is intended for all, particularly children. There, you will find interactive and entertaining exhibitions that will pique your curiosity and tease your brain cells.
UNIVERSITY CAMPUS & ROLEX LEARNING CENTER
The university campus includes the Lausanne Federal Institute of Technology and Lausanne University, the first buildings of which were erected in the 1970s. Since then, the site has rapidly expanded and integrated buildings, the architecture of which is admired beyond Swiss borders. It’s the case of the Rolex Learning Center’s gentle undulations, created by the Japanese architecture firm SANAA, that serves as a place of learning, meeting and exchanges, and includes a library housing more than 500,000 volumes.
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Head to the top of the Royal Savoy and let the magical scenery of Lake Geneva, the menu and the cocktails amaze you! Discover our restaurant for the summer season ! S K Y L O U N G E royalsavoylausanne com
glaciers
DISTRICTS SAUVABELIN/CHALET-À-GOBET
North of the town, vast expanses of forest, representing 40% of the municipal surface area, offer many opportunities for walks and outdoor sports activities.
At an altitude of 873 m, Le Chalet-à-Gobet is the culminating point of the Lausanne urban area, 500 m above Lake Geneva. Sauvabelin’s bucolic setting, with its lake, park and tower, will delight you.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
AQUATIS AQUARIUM-VIVARIUM
This innovative architectural complex, easily reached by metro, integrates the largest freshwater aquarium in Europe and the Lausanne Vivarium.
Follow the discovery trail that includes 50 tanks displaying about 20 aquatic ecosystems from across the five continents.
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Open
Le
LA MAISON DU GRUYÈRE - CH-1663 Pringy-Gruyères - Tel. +41 (0)26/921 84 00 www.lamaisondugruyere.ch Switzerland. Naturally.
AOP: a journey to the heart of the senses
in the morning
Exhibition: «Gruyere
Cheese-making:
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Discover all the secrets of «Gruyère AOP» cheese-making! La Gruyère for your gourmet excursion Cheeses from Switzerland. www.switzerland-cheese.com
Restaurant - Le Marché Gruérien
CHALET-À-GOBET & MAUVERNAY SPORTS CENTRE
This village includes a hotel school, a ski slope, an equestrian centre as well as a golf course. Its sports centre offers running and mountainbike trails (changing showers available).
Created in 1888 in the heart of an oak forest, the Sauvabelin lake rapidly became a soughtafter strolling area for Lausanne people. You can rent a small boat during the summer or walk along its shores. The surrounding park is very popular with children, who discover unusual animals such as woolly pigs, grey cows, booted goats and mirror sheep.
HERMITAGE COUNTRY ESTATE & FOUNDATION
In the centre of the Hermitage Estate sits an imposing mansion built around 1850 and which today houses a famous museum of paintings. In the English-style gardens populated with majestic trees, benches invite you to contemplate a unique panorama of the old town, the lake and the mountains.
This tower built of solid, local wood in a spirit of environmental respect is one of the many destinations for a hike above the town since 2003. Enjoy the 360° view from a height of 35 metres after climbing the 151 steps of its double spiral staircase. Free access.
SAUVABELIN PARK & LAKE
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SAUVABELIN TOWER
Ouroffersspecial
Foody tours
Push open the doors of our Lausanne culinary artisans for a unique experience
Guided tours
Walk the streets of the town to discover its historical or wine-growing heritage
Lausanne
City Pass
Discover the highlights in Lausanne and the area at an unbeatable price
Treasure hunt
Solve riddles to discover the city in an original way with family or friends
Around wine
Spend a moment out of time at Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage site
www.lausanne-tourisme.ch www.thelausanner.ch @thelausanner #thelausanner #mylausanne
special Book your experience
LAUSANNE TRANSPORT CARD
If you’re staying in accommodation that pays the overnight tourist tax, you can freely use public transport (bus, train, metro) during your whole stay (maximum 15 days) in Lausanne and its surroundings with your Lausanne Transport Card.
But that’s not all! Thanks to our partners, you benefit from exceptional discounts and advantages from many museums, shops and other leisure activity providers.
ZONE OF THE PUBLIC TRANSPORT NETWORK VALID FOR HOLDERS OF THE LAUSANNE TRANSPORT CARD
CUGY VD 15 16 12 18 17 19 12 BUSSIGNY PULLY BOSSIÈRES LA CONVERSION LUTRY VILLETTE CULLY GRANDVAUX SAVIGNY ÉPESSES EPFL CHUV CHAUDERON LAUSANNE-FLON MALLEY PULLY-NORD PRILLY-MALLEY RENENS VUFFLENSLA-VILLE 11 OUCHY-OLYMPIQUE GRAND-MONT SALLAZ ÉPALINGES VERS-CHEZLES-BLANC CROISETTES CHESEAUXSURLAUSANNE ROMANELSURLAUSANNE CHALETÀ-GOBET LAKE GENEVA
A card
offers you
that
access to public transport and discounts!
ww w l a u s a nn e - t o u r is m e. c h / l t c Train Bus Metro
GENERAL INFORMATION
Here are useful contact details to keep at hand and make your stay easier. You have access to all the necessary information at our two information offices.
EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS
112 International number for emergency calls
117 Police (crimes and theft, emergencies only)
118 Fire brigade
140 Roadside assistance service
144 Ambulance
USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS
+41 21 314 11 11 CHUV
Centre Hospitalier Universitaire Vaudois
+41 848 133 133 Centre for on-call doctors
1811 Directory enquiry services
162 Swiss weather forecast
163 Road traffic information
LOST PROPERTY OFFICE
LAUSANNE POLICE STATION
Rue du Petit-Chêne 36 +41 21 315 15 15
Monday to Friday: 8.30 am → 11.30 am 1 pm → 4 pm www.lausanne.ch/en
USEFUL MOBILE APPLICATIONS
Find here the applications that are useful for your stay in Lausanne. Calendar, hotels, self-service bike rentals, public transport and much more!
MORE INFORMATION AT: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/mobile-apps
CURRENCY
Swiss franc (CHF) 1 euro = 1 CHF (indicative rate, base 2024)
EXCHANGE OFFICE
Lausanne train station
Monday to Friday: 8 am → 6.30 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 6 pm; Sunday: 10 am → 6 pm
POST OFFICES
AT THE TRAIN STATION
Pl. de la Gare 1/Av. de la Gare 43 bis +41 848 888 888
Monday to Friday: 8 am → 6.30 pm; Saturday: 8 am → 4 pm; Sunday: 3.30 pm → 6.30 pm
LAUSANNE RIPONNE
4, place de la Riponne +41 848 888 888
Monday to Friday: 9 am → 6 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 1 pm www.poste.ch/en
€ $ ¥ £
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OF a universe to be shared a universe to be shared
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Corsier-sur-Vevey • Switzerland
20 TH NOV. - 31 ST DÉC. 2024
A pop-up hotel room, a sled run, a small Christmas train, a giant Christmas tree, several themed markets and plenty of other surprises await you.
10
EDITION
TH
Graphisme et organisation : trivialmass.com — Illustration : brenyard.ch Ofisa Berney Associés SA Ch. de Roseneck 5 1006 Lausanne +41 58 234 91 00 fidu@ofisaberney.ch berneyassocies.com Audit Accounting & Payroll Taxation Legal Corporate Finance & Consulting Your challenges, our expertise
A TRAVEL JOURNAL FOR YOUR FAMILY VISIT TO LAUSANNE
To entertain your children while you visit the town, Lausanne Tourisme offers them a Travel Journal packed with fun and creative activities.
Come and pick up a Travel Journal for each of your children aged 5 to 12 in one of our tourist information offices.
www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/travel-journal
ACTIVITIES FOR THOSE ON TIGHT BUDGETS
The City of Lausanne puts on various activities for those on a modest budget. Here are a few examples of outings to be enjoyed as a family or among friends.
BETWEEN CHF 1 AND CHF 9 A leisure offer accessible to all
• Climbing the Cathedral tower (from CHF 1 to CHF 5)
• Flon bowling alley (between CHF 5.50 and CHF 9 per person)
FREE OF CHARGE
• Vidy Bowl for skaters
• Many multi-coloured birds at the Mon-Repos Park aviary
• Free entry to most museums on the first Saturday of the month
• Mountain biking at Chalet-à-Gobet
• Climbing the Sauvabelin Tower
• Bellerive minigolf (free up to age 4, CHF 6 until age 15, then CHF 8)
• Vidy miniature train (CHF 3 per journey)
Tourist information: close to the train station, Cathedral +41 21 613 73 73 info@lausanne-tourisme.ch
PLATEFORME
Partenaire principal Plateforme 10 Partenaires principaux construction WWW.PLATEFORME10.CH
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