W Stelle di lago the lives and menus of great chefs on
I ta ly’s
For ward by Bur t Lupo Photographs by Jill Mathis
northern lakes
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stelle di lago Photographs by Jill Mathis
One
A
summer evening at dinner, with lago Mergoz zo s a magnificent backdrop, the project Stelle di Lago was born. It was created from the artistic vision of the American photographer, Jill Mathis, along
with her husband, the Italian sculptor, Valerio Tedeschi, and Andrea Burgener’s passion for both his native lake region and the appealing simplicity of the Italian kitchen. That dinner, skillfully prepared by Maurizio Pozzoli at the Portici restaurant and with the wines selected by the sommelier Max Sabbadini, plays a major role in the objective of Stelle di Lago. Its aim is to recreate and share the emotions and the inspirations of that evening that were a result of the atmosphere and the common language that is a well-orchestrated meal.
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ithin the pages of the book the reader will find a selection of diverse menus produced by the top chefs of the northern lake region of Italy.
Chefs that have their origins in the area and draw their inspiration from generations past but also, from those chefs that simply choose to live in the area in harmony with the splendid nature found on its lakes. It is from these maestri della cucina that give voice to the intense feelings and the total sense of fulfillment that has inspired this project. Andrea Burgener
Photographing food is a kind of documentary art.
I
took my first photographs of food on a trip to Sicily in 1993. That series, as all my documentary work, eventually became a single memory. The people
and places and events that in one moment seem forever engraved on the mind are in fact merely evanescent. But certain freeze frame moments can pass for small eternities. As my work evolved, it was these moments, these details to which my eye was repeatedly drawn - the pattern of the pillows against an old wall, the cubist design of cheeses on display in the open market, the elegant dance of hands preparing a meal.
I
taly’s lake region, a summer retreat for the wealthy at the turn of the 20th century, epitomizes this indulgence of luxuriating in the details. This setting
of baroque architecture recalls that gilded age, a time of refinement in even the most elegant of settings. Had photography not been so young at the time, it would have been a photographer’s paradise. This project recreates that paradise by first engaging our sense of sight. As the book develops and we explore the menus from this northern lake region our sense of taste and smell are indulged. We see an elegant and sharply focused simplicity in every dish within these pages. Here I work with a faith in my instincts culminated from 20 years of photographs but the rest is pure inspiration from moments past of legendary glamour and determined grace. Jill Mathis
The chef
MARCO SACCO
was born in Mergozzo, Italy on January 24, 1965, and was destined to become one of the most prominent Chefs on the international culinary scene. His parents, Bruna and Gastone Sacco, opened their first restaurant the very month he was born. A characteristic openness to innovation and change has attracted the attention of the culinary world to this talented emerging Chef. Starting with his success in the Cook of the Year 2000 competition, he has been invited to participate in interviews and articles in major specialty publications, Tv programs and international food festivals, drawing imminent figures in the culinary sector to Piccolo Lago. In 2004 Piccolo Lago was awarded its first Michelin star, and only three years later, its second. The past two years have been marked by a new evolutionary phase: increasing expertise in his role as a Chef in the world of high gastronomy, to the point that high gastronomy has become an inseparable part of Marco Sacco’s name. In August 2010 Marco and Carlo open up the new prestigious restaurant River Club in Beijing.
W Beef carpaccio with a balsamic vinaigrette Risotto verde with champagne
Filet mignon with a Barolo wine sauce
Baked pear with a warm chocolate sauce
BEEF CARPACCIO WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR
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T
rue luxury is a question of simplicity. And a simple antipasta such as a carpaccio reflects its luxurious origins of Harry’s Bar in Venice. The delicious bright red recalls the palette of its earlier namesake, the Renaissance painter, Vittore Carpaccio. INGREDIENTS
3 lbs of boned shell of beef; after trimming will yield about 1 1/2 lbs 1/2 cup of balsamic vinegar salt to taste DIRECTIONS
1. Trim all the sinew, gristle and fat from the boned shell. It is important to leave just the tenderest and the tastiest part of the cut. 2. To make slicing easier and to ensure even cuts, chill the meat completely. A short time in the freezer with care taken to not freeze the meat is the best option. Using a razor sharp knife carefully cut the beef in paper thin slices. 3. Arrange the carpaccio evenly among the 6 servings and drizzle the balsamic vinegar in thin, decorative ribbons over the meat. Serve immediately with fresh baked grissini or warm flat breads.
Serves 6
g
I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore, I hear it in the deep heart’s core.
W. B.Yeats
RISOTTO VERDE WITH CHAMPAGNE
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T an Italian rice such as Arborio or Carnaroli for the proper amount of his is a truly classic first course but it is essential that it is made with
starch. Adding the stock slowly gives a risotto its delicious creamy quality. INGREDIENTS
1 cup of steamed asparagus & spinach puree 3 tablespoons of butter 2 tablespoons of minced shallots 2 cups Arborio rice 6 cups of chicken stock 1 cup of champagne 1 cup of heavy cream grated Parmesan cheese freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste DIRECTIONS
1. Bring the broth to a steady simmer.
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2. In a broad, sturdy pot melt half of the butter over medium high heat and sautĂŠ the shallots until golden. Add the rice, stirring well to thoroughly coat the grains. Slowly add half of the still bubbling broth and simmer the rice, stirring constantly. As the rice absorbs the liquid add the additional stock as needed.
3. Begin to taste the rice after 15 minutes of cooking. It is done when it is tender, but firm to the bite. When it is about 1 to 2 minutes from being fully cooked, add the rest of the butter, cream, asparagus and spinach puree, and champagne. Stir well to coat all grains. 4. With the pan off the heat, add the grated Parmesan, stirring well. Taste and correct for salt. 5. Transfer to a serving dish and serve promptly. Serves 6
FILLET IN A BAROLO WINE SAUCE
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T known breed than Tuscany’s Chianina but more tender and delicate in
he steaks here come from the prized Razza Piemontese which is a less
flavor. It pairs well with the rich body of a well-aged Barolo such as the Marchesi di Barolo from northern Piedmont. INGREDIENTS
1 bottle Barolo wine 2 cups of chicken stock 1 cup of beef stock 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1 tablespoon all-purpose f lour 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 (6 ounce) fillets of beef tenderloin 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots 1 tablespoon minced garlic freshly ground black pepper and salt DIRECTIONS
1. In a heavy saucepan over high heat, combine the wine with the chicken and beef stock. Bring to a boil, and simmer until the mixture is reduced to 2 cups, about an hour. 2. In a small bowl mix the butter and flour. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle steaks with salt and pepper, and saute until medium-rare, about 4 minutes on each side. Transfer steaks to a plate.
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3. Stir the shallots and garlic into the skillet. Add the reduced wine sauce to the skillet and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits. Whisk in the butter and flour mixture until smooth. Boil sauce until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 2 to 3 minutes. Serves 6
BAKED PEAR IN A WARM CHOCOLATE SAUCE
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T picked Williams pears. Serve with a scattering of red currants to remind here are few desserts as perfect to end an autumn dinner than freshly
you of the red leaves falling just outside your window. INGREDIENTS
4 firm pears, peeled 1/2 cup of sugar 1/2 cup of water lemon rind 2 tablespoons of butter 2 ounces of unsweetened chocolate 1 cup of sugar a pinch of salt 1/2 cup of water 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla DIRECTIONS
1. Combine the sugar, water and lemon rind; cook rapidly for 5 minutes. Cover the pears with the sugar mixture and bake in a 300F oven until tender but still firm.
/\ 2. In a heavy bottomed sauce pan stir the butter and chocolate over low heat until the chocolate is creamy.
3. Remove from the heat and slowly stir in the sugar, salt and water. Beat until smooth and then return to moderate heat, and continue stirring while the sauce cooks for about 5 minutes.
4. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Add the vanilla and serve warm along side each pear or drizzled over the tops. Makes about 1 cup of chocolate sauce. Serves 4
The long light shakes across the lakes
And the wild Cataract leaps in glory.
Lord Tennyson
ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER: Jill Mathis grew up in San Antonio, Texas where she studied photography at the University of Texas in San Antonio and Austin. After living in New York City for five years, four of which were spent as the full-time assistant to Ralph Gibson, she moved to Italy. Jill currently lives in the lake region of Northern Italy with her husband, the sculptor, Valerio Tedeschi. She is now producing an extensive body of work based on etymology. Her work can be found in numerous collections including the following: WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART, NEW YORK CITY THE JEWISH MUSEUM, NEW YORK CITY THE BROOKLYN MUSEUM OF ART, NEW YORK CITY THE BIRMINGHAM MUSEUM OF ART THE DELAWARE ART MUSEUM THE NORTON MUSEUM OF ART, PALM BEACH, FLORIDA COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY, NEW YORK CITY UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND AT BALTIMORE THE BUHL FOUNDATION The photos of each recipe were made possible by the generous collarboration of Carlo Sacco and his brother, the two star Michelin chef, Marco Sacco at their restaurant, Piccolo Lago in Mergozzo, Italy.