Indulge February-March 2015

INDULGE FEBRUARY / MARCH 2015

PLUS

food wıne &ISSUE

Six powerhouse female chefs making Miami more delicious than ever How to always find a perfect bottle of wine The Magic City’s best Valentine’s Day Chocolates

Where in the world is Nina Compton?

An exclusive catch-up with the Top Chef alum

in this issue

96

FELIPE CUEVAS

FEATURES 96 a league of their own Six powerhouse women chefs ruling some of Miami's best kitchens (and participating in this month's South Beach Wine and Food Festival) share their stories and recipes.

104 Man on Fire We go home with Miami's hottest restaurateur to talk life, success and the secrets behind some of the city's most delectable eateries.

108 Where in the World is Nina Compton?

The Top Chef alum returned to her Miami Beach kitchen a culinary hero— then quickly took a self-imposed sabbatical. What's she been doing since?

INDULGE FEBRUARY / MARCH 2015

PLUS

food &wıne ISSUE

SIX POWERHOUSE FEMALE CHEFS MAKING MIAMI MORE DELICIOUS THAN EVER HOW TO ALWAYS FIND A PERFECT BOTTLE OF WINE THE MAGIC CITY’S BEST VALENTINE’S DAY CHOCOLATES

WHERE IN THE WORLD IS NINA COMPTON? AN EXCLUSIVE CATCH-UP WITH THE TOP CHEF ALUM

ON THE COVER Photography by Felipe Cuevas Fashion styling Rachael Russell Clothing courtesy of Saks Fifth Avenue, Bal Harbour Hair and makeup by Jorge Penn and Lindsey Friedman Prop styling by Claudia Miyar

in this issue 33 THE local 33 The Local The hottest tabletop trend right this minute, plus the chic color combination that’s elegant with just the right amount of edge.

36 Launching Now A million dollar marinade made in Miami; five-star cooking classes; Stephen Starr's latest South Florida moves; and the most luxurious kitchens in the Design District.

38 Beauty Foodie beauty products to get your glow on; a luxurious, homemade local soap line and what’s new in the South Florida spa world.

40 My 305 Style Zack Bush, the owner of the resurrected jazz spot Ball & Chain, is a Little Havana hipster who knows his way around Miami’s music, fashion—and anything fun.

42 Party INDULGE attended the 63rd Annual Beaux Arts Ball Party and asked costumed revelers…What’s your favorite breakfast food?

46

46 Source After years of running successful restaurants and catering operations in South Florida, Ken Lyon debuts his newest concept. And, as usual, it’s delicious.

38

in this issue

89 73 THE life 73 The Dish Where to score Miami’s best chocolates this Valentine’s Day.

THE mOVERs

78 The Recipe Making meatballs like celeb chef Fabio Viviani, of South Beach’s new Siena Tavern.

55 The Rainmaker Ginny Simon went from full-time mother to full-fledged entrepreneur.

Now, the namesake behind ginnybakes is trying to make the world a healthier place—one cookie at a time.

82 The Pour Heath Porter, the wine genius behind Uvaggio in Coral Gables, shares his secrets to finding terrific bottles.

58 The Philanthropists After lending their philanthropic talents to various causes close to their hearts, Coconut Grove power couple Marile and Jorge Luis Lopez take on a new role as chairs of the 2015 Red Cross Ball.

84 The Neighborhood Tucked between Miami Beach and Bal Harbour Village, Surfside boasts a population of about 5,000 and a two-block downtown. The town remains one square mile of beachy, old-school charm, even as it gains a few new starchitect-designed condo projects.

62 The Influencer For 15 years, Miami real estate broker Robbie Bell has hosted the ultimate women’s lunch, with no agenda whatsoever. Or so it seems.

66 The Expert Having been recently named National Brand Ambassador to famed French house of silver Christofle, Justin Trabert is on a quest to explain the fish knife— and other artful table matters.

89 The Escape As Hurricane Katrina’s 10th anniversary approached, New Orleans doesn’t dwell on the past— but charges full speed ahead.

55

INDULGENCES 122 A stunning dining table from Mitchell Gold & Bob Williams that’s so much more.

editor’s letter

F

Y / MARCH FEBRUAR

2014

NEW MIAMI’S RY CULINA GUARD

or the third year in a row, we’re dedicating INDULGE’s February/March issue to South Florida’s most exciting local chefs, telling their personal stories and sharing their favorite recipes. In this edition, you’ll meet six powerhouse, intensely creative female cooks helming the city’s most thrilling, innovative kitchens. Not only are they making some of the most extraordinary dishes in Miami, they’re doing it while making minced meat out of the glass ceiling that historically kept women from heading professional kitchens. After getting to spend two days on our shoot with them, I truly understood why each is such a star. Not only are they consummate professionals, dedicated perfectionists, passionate and disciplined—they are a fantastically smart and funny PLUS pral, band of sisters. I left our shoot with a tremendous sense of pride at the idea that I (and all of us who live Jackie Nesnau rd Interviews with n, Manny Gau Contreras Ingrid Hoffma and Melissa E U S here) get to share this city with such incredible women. Their story starts on P. 96.

IS But there’s more in this issue. As the local restaurant scene here becomes ever more interesting each day, we also sat for an in-depth conversation with the city’s most prolific restaurateur, John Kunkel, the mastermind behind Yardbird, Swine and Khong River House, who has more up his savory sleeve for the coming year. His story starts on P. 104. We went on the hunt for the city’s best chocolates (P. 73); dropped in on a ladies lunch club with a higher purpose (P. 62); asked a brilliant sommelier to give up his secrets for buying the perfect bottle of wine (P. 82); and convinced the most Italian chef in Miami to share his amazing meatball recipe (P.78).

It’s hard to imagine it now, as new eateries open by the day, but there was a time when food in Miami wasn’t nearly as exciting. It’s a testament to how much things have changed, that for two years in a row our cover has featured a group of impressive chefs, not just one. Which made me wonder about the five we featured last year (pictured at right), and what they’d been up to since then. It turns out they each had a terrific year too. So I thought it would be fun to update you on their status.

José Mendín (of the Pubbelly group on South Beach) opened L’Echon Brasserie, his love letter to French food, inside the Hilton Cabana on Miami Beach, and also announced Food Republic, a restaurant he’s developing for Norwegian Cruise Line’s new Escape ship, which will sail out of Miami starting November. Giorgio Betty Cortina-Weiss Editor-in-Chief Rapicavoli (of Eating House in Coral Gables) is slated to develop a new restaurant concept called Glasshouse that will be located at Coconut Grove’s Peacock Park. Alberto Cabrera (of Bread & Butter in Coral Gables) opened the Little Bread Cuban Sandwich Company in Little Havana. César Zapata (of The Federal in Miami) is competing in Bravo’s newest culinary reality series, Best New Restaurant, hosted by none other than Tom Colicchio. And Todd Erickson (of Haven and Hua Hua’s Taqueria on South Beach) is slated to expand his mini empire as he opens Haven in Fort Myers later this year.

I’ve said it before and it bears repeating: I don’t believe there’s ever been a time when there’s been as much phenomenal food at our fingertips in Miami—or in this country. Consider this issue as our small, local celebration of that fact! Buen provecho…

Their fresh vision for oure, cityʼs cuisin plus their easiest recipes

to R: (Top row, L voli, Giorgio Rapica a, Alberto Cabrer ; and César Zapata , Mendín Front: José Todd left, and Erickson)

e food&win

NNERS! !

S! RE NTIC DI RECIPE CHEFS! BREWS! ROMAEATS! AND MO GREAT GOURMET TR LOCAL

Keep in touch! Follow INDULGE on Twitter @MiamiIndulge, and follow me @bettycortina Friend us! facebook.com/MiamiIndulge | Visit our online edition at www.miamiindulge.com

INDULGE A S P E C I A L P U B L I C AT I O N P ro d uce d by

President and Publisher Alexandra Villoch EDITORIAL editor-in-Chief Betty Cortina-Weiss Contributing Design Director John Michael Coto Miami Herald Special Publications Manager Roberto Hernández-Alende Contributing writers Andrea Carneiro, Rebecca Kleinman, Christiana Lilly, Lydia Martin, Claudia Miyar, Danelle Morton, Ronnie Ramos, Stephanie Sayfie Aagaard, Jennifer Scruby

ADVERTISING Vice President of Advertising Samuel Brown Sales Director Donna Dickey Advertising Manager Kristina Schulz-Corrales National Accounts Jaclyn Kaplan Local Accounts Liana Guilarte Automotive/Real Estate Accounts Manager Fran Rosenthal Marketing & Events Manager Adele Lorenzo Magazine Coordinator Yvonne Cloud

Contributing photographers Felipe Cuevas, Nick Garcia, Manny Hernandez Color correction Wilbert Mooyoung For editorial information: editor@miamiindulge.com

Advertising, sales and distribution information: 305-376-2801 kcorrales@MiamiHerald.com

behind the scenes This month’s cover was shot at the brand spankin’ new beautiful Thompson Hotel on Miami Beach, inside its cozy yet elegant Crown Room.

It’s no coincidence that the hotel is also home to one of South Florida’s most exciting recent culinary openings—that of Seagrape, featuring chef Michelle Bernstein at its helm. The legendary toque, along with five more spectacular female chefs from the 305, spent two days shooting the INDULGE cover story. On day one, a Sunday, the chefs arrived one after another, each ready to plate a gorgeous dish for our cameras. Adrienne Calvo was first, needing to finish quickly so she could make it back to her Kendall restaurant, where she was working the line that day. Day two started early, with Paula DaSilva and Dena Marina arriving at 7:45 a.m. for hair, makeup and wardrobe. As the ladies gussied up, they nibbled on granola bars and fruit, chatted with each other and took selfies, a strong sense of sisterhood filling the set.

Each of the chefs— including Adrienne Calvo in the picture at left, and Paula DaSilva in the one above— prepared a signature recipe and worked with INDULGE prop stylist Claudia Miyar to ensure the dish looked picture perfect. And once it did, out came the cell phone cameras.

Above: They may be tough-as-nails, rock star chefs, but hey, they’re still women. And that means there were some seriously fabulous shoes on set for them to wear.

Above: It takes a village. Or at least a big crew that includes a photographer, lighting assistants, two hair and makeup artists, a fashion stylist and more, to make a photo like this happen. At the end of a long two days of shooting, it was time for a little celebration and shot of the star chefs with the whole team.

Above: For the cover image, we wanted to create a table that showed off the gorgeous bounty South Florida has to offer—a perfect complement to the gorgeous female chefs we were celebrating.

Left: DaSilva, Marino and Eileen Andrade pose for a quick snapshot as they wait to go on set.

Meanwhile, Bernstein (above) gets her hair primped by stylist Lindsey Friedman.

contributors RACHAEL RUSSELL

NICK GARCIA

Rachael Russell started her career in New York, where she worked at Condé Nast for Vogue and Tatler as a styling assistant. Back in Miami, she worked as an independent fashion stylist for local and international magazines, commercials and advertising campaigns. In addition, Russell is the founder and President of Style Saves, a nonprofit that provides new clothing, shoes, accessories and prescription glasses to underprivileged students internationally. She holds a BA in Marketing from Johnson & Wales University, studied Fashion Merchandising at Miami International University of Art & Design and attended fashion styling courses at the prestigious Domus Academy in Milan. Russell is a regular INDULGE contributor. For this month’s issue, she styled the six chefs featured on our cover.

Born and raised in Barranquilla, Colombia, Nick Garcia began his photography training as an apprentice under his father, renowned Colombian lens man Enrique Garcia. At 21, he moved to the United States to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. After graduating, Garcia came to Miami, where he’s built his photography career for the last 15 years. Today, Garcia shoots for a number of publications, including Billboard, Florida Trend, Ocean Drive and Miami. A regular contributor to INDULGE, this month he photographed various subjects featured in our Movers section—including Ginny Simon (The Rainmaker), Marile and Jorge Lopez (The Philanthropists) and Justin Trabert (The Expert)—as well as celebrity chef Nina Compton for the feature story “Where in the World is Nina Compton?”

FELIPE CUEVAS

REBECCA KLEINMAN

Photographer Felipe Cuevas discovered he could capture unforgettable moments with his camera when he was a child growing up in his native Chile. Landscapes and people were his first subjects during his travels around South America. Concerts and events followed, and then his passion for food led him to photograph and meet many of the top chefs in the country and their cuisines.

His images have been featured in magazines, digital media and books, and his themed collections have been exhibited in galleries and museums. As a photographer for Univision for the past 15 years, Cuevas has also photographed Latin America’s biggest celebrities, from Celia Cruz to Ricky Martin. In 2011, he was honored at the Latin Grammy Awards in Las Vegas, where his iconic photographs of Grammy winners lined the red carpet outside the venue. A regular contributor to INDULGE, for this month’s issue, Cuevas photographed John Kunkel for the “Man of Fire” feature; Robbie Bell, who is this month’s Influencer; and our first-ever, all-female chef cover.

Rebecca Kleinman has been a freelance writer specializing in South Florida fashion and lifestyle for 15 years. In addition to contributing to a range of national and regional publications including Travel & Leisure, Architectural Digest and The Hollywood Reporter, she has been the Florida correspondent for Women’s Wear Daily, the premier publication for fashion, beauty and retail news, since 2000.

She is a frequent contributor to INDULGE, and this month her assignments included finding Miami’s best chocolates and interviewing our Rainmaker, Ginny Simon.

LYDIA MARTIN

ANDREA CARNEIRO

Lydia Martin is a longtime journalist with three decades of experience covering Miami and its cultural evolution. Her “Lunch with Lydia" column in The Miami Herald, a fixture for more than 15 years, has featured conversations with celebrities, visual artists, designers, food world personalities and notables of all sorts. Her writing has appeared in books such as Presenting Celia Cruz (Clarkson Potter); Louis Vuitton City Guide, Miami and in magazines such as Esquire, InStyle, Oprah, People, Latina, Marie Claire and Out. In this month’s INDULGE, she explored the ins and outs of Surfside with WSVN anchor Belkys Nerey.

Andrea Carneiro is a Miami-based writer and editor, who covers everything from celebrity profiles to organic shopping. She is the former editor of Zumba Fitness' Z-LIFE Magazine and a regular contributor to digital and print publications around the country. When not writing, she can be found at home with her husband, daughters and three rescue dogs.

She is a frequent contributor to INDULGE. This month, she interviewed Marile and Jorge Lopez, who are featured as The Philanthropists.

the local

N e w. N o w.

And right here.

Compiled by Claudia Miyar

STRIKING SERVER

A chrome-plated braid detail brings elegance as well as functionality to this grained acacia tray, which is gorgeous holding objects on a coffee table or goblets for entertaining. $150. Nordstrom, Dadeland Mall, 7239 N Kendall Drive, Miami; 786-709-4100; nordstrom.com.

FLIRTY FLATWARE

With smooth lines and jaunty red tips, this set of French flatware manages to be both understated and quirky. $98. Anthropologie, Lincoln Road Mall, 1108 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach; 305-659-0775; anthropologie.com.

HANDY HANDLES

Patterned after vintage designs found in Le Creuset’s archives, the traditional spunwood handle on these classic French-made cast iron pots makes them comfortable to hold and stays cool to the touch.

From $185. Le Creuset, Village of Merrick Park, 350 San Lorenzo Avenue, Coral Gables; 305-446-9421; williams-sonoma.com.

DRINKS ANYONE?

Roll out the fun with this graceful iron and wood bar cart, which makes entertaining effortless. $599. Crate & Barrel, 358 San Lorenzo Avenue, Coral Gables; 305-460-3560; crateandbarrel.com.

wood

you?

The season’s chicest trend in dining décor?

Smooth, natural and matte finished wood objects.

AMERICAN BEAUTY

For the runway, Oscar de la Renta always drew inspiration from the classics. He did the same for his homeware line, as seen in this wooden bowl modeled after American legend Paul Revere’s famous silver bowls. $395.

Bloomingdale’s, Aventura Mall, 19555 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura; 305-792-1156; bloomingdales.com.

KNIFE SKILLS

Reminiscent of Japanese swords, each of these knives features 101 layers of forged steel, hand-honed using a traditional honbazuke three-step process that creates the visible hamon edge. Translation?

They’re extraordinarily sharp! $1,199.95. Sur La Table, Aventura Mall, 19501 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura; 305-384-4793; surlatable.com.

STOP IT!

Smooth sheesham wood tops stainless steel stoppers and make storing wine easy and chic. $34 for a set of 4.

West Elm, 3201 N Miami Avenue, Miami; 305-572-0880; westelm.com.

the local Compiled by Claudia Miyar

OPULENT OPENER

FANTASTIC PLASTIC

This quartz-encrusted, gold Kelly Wearstler bottle opener is the kind you won’t want to hide. $350.

Nest Casa, 120 NE 39th Street, Design District; 877-661-0417; nestcasa.com.

Designed with the organic shape of pebbles in mind, these molded vinyl placemats are beautiful, functional and machine washable. $14. Bloomingdale’s, The Falls, 8878 SW 136th Street, Miami; 305-252-6300; bloomingdales.com.

ICONIC IRONWORK

golden

A classic Hermès design, the Balcon du Guadalquivir tableware line is inspired by traditional Andalusian ironwork. Originally issued in red, the gold with subtle black outline makes for a dazzling update. From $230.

Hermès, 175 NE 40th Street, Miami; 305-868-0118; hermes.com.

THE

RULE

Want a gorgeous table setting?

Match a little gold with a little black for the perfect amount of edge.

GLAM ROCK

The dainty edging of gold on these agate coasters make for a sexy table accent. $125.

Jonathan Adler, 4040 NE Second Avenue, Miami; 305-576-0200; jonathanadler.com.

GILDED SET

The delicate quality of these gold-plated, stainless steel cheese knives looks beautiful paired against a simple slate board. $29 for a set of 4.

West Elm, 8805 Dadeland Boulevard, Miami; 305-670-7774; westelm.com.

TERRIFIC TUMBLER

Modeled after malachite, the marbleized swirls of gold on onyx elevate this humble tumbler. $25. Jonathan Adler, 4040 NE Second Avenue, Miami; 305-576-0200; jonathanadler.com.

OUTSTANDING STAND

Michael Aram’s work reinterprets natural forms in metal. This cake stand, inspired by the austere beauty of rocks, is made of enamel, gold-toned metal and granite. $249. Neiman Marcus, Village of Merrick Park, 390 San Lorenzo Avenue, Coral Gables; 786-999-1000; neimanmarcus.com.

the local LAUNCHING NOW Million Dollar Marinade You’ve heard of mojo, that most Latin of citrusy, garlicky sauces. Now Ana Quincoces, of Housewives of Miami fame, would like to introduce to you her take on the classic—her Skinny Latina Million Dollar Marinade line, which is equally savory and infinitely versatile. The recently expanded line is available at select Target and Fresh Market stores in Miami. If you’d like a taste, look for Quincoces at the South Beach Wine & Food Festival’s Grand Tasting Village, on Saturday, Feb. 21 and Sunday, Feb. 22, where she’ll be offering samples. Or go to anaquincoces.com for more information.

ELEGANT DOMAIN There are kitchens and then there are kitchens.

You can be certain that when FENDI Casa designs the setting for an extravagant home cook, no detail is too exquisite, no surface too pristine. Check out the Italian line’s spectacular culinary spaces at the brand-new, 7,700-square-foot showroom for Luxury Living Group, the exclusive retailer for FENDI Casa in Miami. It’s the group’s second Design District location, which they opened in October as they celebrated 10 years in the Magic City.

The new store is at 4100 NE 2nd Avenue.

Cooking 101 Starr Appeal He may be a native Philly boy, but chef Stephen Starr is quickly becoming a Miami man. With four restaurants— Steak 954 at the W, Fort Lauderdale, Makoto at Bal Harbour Shops, Verde at PAMM and Ted’s At YoungArts—and a catering company already in operation here, Starr recently announced he’ll open two more eateries later this year, including a second one at Bal Harbour. In the meantime, he’s been shuffling things around at the established places: Chef Nicolay Adinaguev, who opened Verde, took the reigns as executive chef at Steak 954. Meanwhile, Kaytlin Brakefield, a young chef whose training includes a degree from the prestigious French Culinary Institute in New York City, experience at Gabe Thompson’s dell’anima and L’Apicio, as well as San Francisco’s famed Quince and Cotogna, took the helm at Verde. And, Starr insists, there’s more to come.

Dream of enrolling in cooking school? Or having your own “Julie & Julia” life-changing culinary education? Here’s a uniquely Miami, distinctly fabulous first step: Sign up for a class with William Crandall, the chef de cuisine at the critically acclaimed Azul, at the Mandarin Oriental. Fresh from a sojourn at New York City’s famed James Beard House, Crandall will teach a series in which he provides hands-on instruction and detailed recipes. Classes, which will take place inside his restaurant’s marbleclad open kitchen, are limited to just 15 students and include a three-course lunch and wine pairing. You’ll also leave with a signature Azul apron. Each class is $175 per person. Topics include “Spring Is In the Air” (March 7), "Seafood of Summertime" (June 6), “Backyard Grilling” (July 11) and “Turkey-Tastic (November 14).

Call 305-913-8358 to reserve a spot.

the local BEAUTY

By Jennifer Scruby

HIBISCUS FLOWERS “I steep the flowers in hot water to make a bright, citrusy tea that’s super high in Vitamin C,” said Menin. “That helps protect cells from damage caused by free radicals.”

ALOE

“I toss it in a blender with water to make a refreshing, vitamin-rich drink,” said Llodra. “Or add to it some coconut oil, then spray the mixture over my skin to cool off after I’ve been in the sun.”

EXTRA VIRGIN COCONUT OIL

“The refining process removes the coconut flavor but leaves all of the healthy fatty acids intact,” said Menin. “It’s great for cooking—it puts less oxidative stress on the body than polyunsaturated vegetable oils—and delicate enough to work beautifully as a moisturizer for skin and hair.”

RAW LOCAL HONEY

Beauty Foods Founders of the monthly dinner party club Conscious Bite Out, Veronica Menin and Marcela Llodra are revered for sourcing the most fabulous, farm-to-table meals in town. They’re both dedicated young foodies: Menin owns a vegan bakery, and Llodra’s a holistic health counselor and personal chef.

The pair also has the kind of naturally fresh, oh-so-glowing skin that begs the question: What are a few of your secret culinary beauty weapons?

“Sure it’s great in tea or on toast,” said Menin, “but it’s also awesome for skin.

It' s soothing, hydrating and mild antibacterial properties make for a great face masque.”

PAPAYA

“It contains powerful antiinflammatory enzymes that help fight off wrinkles,” Llodra said.

“Plus, it’s delicious. So eat away!”

And in local spa news…

What happens when a guy studying bioscience decides to use analytics to create the ultimate salon treatment?

The genius McAllister Spa in Miami Beach, where 35-year-old Billy McAllister has transformed the site of his family’s ancestral hotel into one of the city’s most buzzedabout beauty havens. (Indeed, after a couple of visits to the McAllister, the masterminds behind The Villa by Barton G. commissioned them to oversee all of its spa services, too.) A few miles north, Laure Heriard-Dubreuil, the co-owner of the super-highend boutique The Webster, is bringing her own youthful perspective to the spa scene.

She’s just put her stylish stamp on the Webster Cabana at the St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort (shown above). Book it for a few hours, grab some friends and a spa menu: The space is luxe and sunny, a gorgeous Cloud Nine.

Mix Master Recent Aventura transplant Marianella Febres-Cordero may be an accomplished cook, but it’s the luxurious artisanal soaps she whipped up in her kitchen—originally just for friends and relatives—that have made her star rise. Now, companies like J.Crew and Net-a-Porter have trouble keeping her fast-growing line, Jabonería Marianella, in stock. Made from pure botanicals, each luxurious lotion and wash comes in a fresh, exhilarating scent that evokes a time in Febres-Cordero’s globe-trotting past as the daughter of a Venezuelan ambassador.

Next up: “A Miami Beach-inspired blend,” she said. “I’m thinking coconut balanced with citrus, musk and floral notes, something rich and complex.” Marianellasoap.com.

the local STYLE Compiled by Christiana Lilly

THE BAR

“The Broken Shaker’s amazing. They’re cool without even trying. They can make anything you ask for.” Broken Shaker at Freehand, 2727 Indian Creek Drive, Miami Beach; 786-325-8974; thefreehand.com

my 305 style ZACK BUSH The owner of the resurrected jazz spot Ball & Chain, this Little Havana hipster knows his way around Miami’s music, fashion —and anything fun.

THE TUNES

“Sure it’s mine—and I love it! My partners and I were excited about not only bringing another live music venue to Miami, but also being part of something historic in a city where history sometimes gets overlooked.” Ball & Chain, 1513 SW Eighth Street, Miami; 305-643-7820; ballandchainmiami.com.

THE SUSHI

“I think that Nobu is still the best around.

If I could afford it, I’d eat there seven days a week!” Nobu, Shore Club South Beach, 1901 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-695-3232; noburestaurants.com.

THE WATCH

“My Piaget watch—I never leave home without it.

It was a gift to myself.” $18,900. Piaget, Design District, 140 NE 39th Street, Miami; 305-908-4050; piaget.com.

THE COFFEE

“The cold brew at Panther Coffee is a Miami musthave! I love the coffee, the people watching, everything.” Panther Coffee, 1875 Purdy Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-677-3952; panthercoffee.com.

THE DESIGNER

“John Varvatos is probably my favorite store. The clothes are always a little cutting edge without going too over-the-top.”

John Varvatos, 1020 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach; 305-674-7917; johnvarvatos.com.

THE DATE SPOT

“My wife and I go to the new Il Mulino, a great date spot on the beach—my wife is Italian and it's one of her favorites.

The chicken parmesan is out of this world!”

Il Mulino New York, 840 First Street, Miami Beach; 305-372-1221; ilmulino.com.

THE SNEAKER

“My closet has hundreds of sneakers.

I’ve been super into the Lanvin sneakers for about the past year or so. I wore them to my wedding!” $595. Barneys New York, 832 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-421-2010; barneys.com.

the local PARTY

“Bacon, egg and cheese sandwich.”

Sean Cary “Ham, egg and cheese sandwich.”

Katie Coffey

“We both love macadamia nut pancakes at Poppycock’s in Aspen.”

Melina Gonzalez (with husband Jorge)

INDULGE attended the 63rd Annual Beaux Arts Ball and asked costumed revelers…

“Duck bacon.”

Tyler Greenan

“Eggs sunnyside up.”

Mandy Greenan

“Short rib hash!”

Bailey Hallingby

“Banana pancakes.”

Abbey Hallingby

What’s your favorite breakfast food?

WHAT Miami’s oldest and biggest costume party—the 63rd Annual Beaux Arts Ball— sponsored by City National Bank and MercedesBenz of Coral Gables and Cutler Bay, held in “Steak and eggs.”

November at the historic Alfred I. DuPont Building.

Eric Wenke This year’s theme: Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

WHO Beaux Arts organization President Becky McCarron and ball co-chairs Meredith Kallaher and Anne Beaumont Neithardt welcomed hundreds of well-heeled guests, decked out in costumes that ranged from the fabulous to the downright evil.

WHY Founded in 1952, Beaux Arts is a completely volunteer organization that funds art enrichment, appreciation and financial assistance for the Lowe Art Museum at the University of Miami.

To date, Beaux Arts has hosted more than 25,000 children at the Beaux Arts Art Camp and some 5,000 students from Miami-Dade schools for art appreciation outreach programs.

TEXT By Stephanie Sayfie Aagaard / Photos by Manny Hernandez

“Shrimp and grits.”

Carter Nance (with wife Julie)

“Pecan pancakes.”

Carlos Carbonell “Leftover pasta.”

Vince Kallaher

“Hands down: Waffles with bacon.”

Becky McCarron

“Walker Bros. pancakes in suburban Chicago.”

Jeanne Carbonell

“Eggs Benedict.”

Meredith Kallaher

“An omelette.”

Lynley Ciorobea (with husband George)

the local SOURCE

“The shop fills the gray area between DIY cooking and entertaining and costly catering.”

appeal Market

After years of running successful restaurants and catering operations in South Florida, Ken Lyon debuts his newest concept. And, as usual, it’s delicious.

t’s been nearly 20 years since Ken Lyon ran his café and market on Lincoln Road in the pre-gentrification nineties. Since then, the New England native has founded a namesake catering company, opened and shuttered Fratelli Lyon, an ode to authentic Italian cuisine in the Miami Design District, and spread his food services from Flavorish emporium in Miami to the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach.

Now, to the joy of frazzled professionals and parents, as well as nervous hosts and hostesses, the longtime local is back on the beach with Lyon Freres Petit Marche. “The shop fills the gray area between DIY cooking and entertaining and costly catering,” he said, having come up with the concept as a South Beach resident who also happens to be a seasoned restaurateur and caterer. “The dining scene seemed oversaturated, but there weren’t many stores with quality edibles and prepared foods.”

For example, plenty of places around town carry gourmet cheeses. But few, if any, employ a cheesemonger who curates and slices the selection to order for maximum freshness, like the famed Murray’s in New York.

Two standouts: spruce-bound wheels of cow’s milk Harbison cheese from Vermont’s Jasper Hill Creamery, and the semi-soft, Morbier-style Secret De Scey from the Franche-Comte region of France.

Lyon applies the same fine-tuning to the shop’s charcuterie, which includes speck and Rosette de Lyon saucisson. With his homemade pâtés, like duck liver mousse served in cute jars, and wines sourced from

his Fratelli Lyon suppliers, just add crackers and you’re good to go for an impromptu party. “You can buy wine up and down Alton Road, so we’re focusing on small growers mainly from France and Italy in the $10 to $50 per bottle range,” he said, confessing to more of a learning curve with the craft beer section. “The beer thing is really new to me, but my goal is to create a destination for it. We’ve replaced the Bud sold at our location’s former bodega with Monk in the Trunk.”

Despite being just a little larger than the nearby efficiency apartments, the space somehow crams in almost every necessity to stock a pantry or platter beneath its sparkling silver-tin ceiling. Lyon is surprised at how fast his homemade soups (like curried butternut squash), sauces (such as a hearty Bolognese) and ice cream (made with local strawberries) are flying off shelves to the disappointment of latecomers. “When the flourless chocolate torte sells out, which has been the case since day one, it causes near panic situations,” he said. With enough experience, he’s confident customers will begin to learn exactly when shipments arrive throughout the day. (He’s open from 6 a.m. to midnight, daily.) Or they’ll be able to pull up a stool, order a sandwich that’s made with love—and wait.

Text by Rebecca Kleinman / Photography by Felipe Cuevas

Lyon Freres Petit Marche, 1600 Alton Road; 305-534-0600; lyonandlyon.com.

Opposite page: Castelvetrano olives; fresh-baked baguettes.

This page clockwise: Lyon Freres Petit Marche’s case filled with gourmet goodies; illy coffee with biscotti; proprietor Ken Lyon with some of his fine cheeses and charcuterie; a homemade apple tart; a smoked salmon sandwich, one of many to-go items that are his take on street food.

the movers

pe o ple WHO m o v e miami

{THE RAINMAKER}

Ginny Simon

She went from full-time mother to full-fledged entrepreneur, and now the namesake behind ginnybakes is trying to make the world a healthier place—one cookie at a time.

TEXT BY REBECCA KLEINMAN / PORTRAIT BY NICK GARCIA

the movers VITALS Born in Long Island, the youngest of three children to Harold Aibel, a real estate developer, and Ellie, a homemaker; moved to Miami's Palmetto area as a preteen; studied business at the University of Florida before realizing her real passion lay in a creative field; transferred to the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, where she earned a degree in fashion marketing; much later, attended The Institute for Integrative Nutrition in New York to reinvent herself as a nutritionist, cooking instructor and holistic healer; married for 28 years to Steve Simon, a lawyer who, after more than a quarter century in practice, joined her company; mother of their four sons, ages 20 to 26; dedicated practitioner of Mysore yoga. “Someone dragged me to a class as support, and I never left.”

CURRENT POST Founder and chief executive officer for ginnybakes, a fiveyear-old food company that focuses on healthy alternatives for baked goods, such as organic, vegan and gluten-free cookies, bars and baking mixes.

Since scoring its first account with Apple A Day natural food market in South Beach, the brand has grown nationally and is now sold at Whole Foods, Publix and Fresh Market, among thousands of stores.

“If you aren’t up for a wild ride, then being an entrepreneur isn’t for you. But if you believe in what you’re doing, it’s totally worth it.”

FIRST PAYING JOB “Burger King when I was 16 to avoid going to sleepaway camp. Even with the crazy uniform, I loved it and stayed on when summer ended.”

AS A KID WANTED TO BE “Besides a famous interior designer with a store that served cookies and cakes, I always knew I wanted a lot of kids.”

MOMENT YOU KNEW YOU MADE IT “When we got into Whole Foods, because their approval means you can go anywhere. But I was equally proud of Publix, so we could give the masses accessible choices for healthy living, which is my true passion.”

LATEST PRODUCT “Loose granolas that we call Crumbles that are kosher, paleo, vegan, gluten-free and wheat-free. They come with ingredients like nuts, seeds, shredded coconut and apples. I love them with a bit of almond milk or yogurt.”

BUSINESS IN MIAMI “Its climate definitely isn’t ideal for baking, but I have an unbelievable support network because I grew up here. Being a melting pot culture, I think people get along better, too, and I haven’t had an issue hiring great employees, especially our inner-city kids.”

BEST CAREER ADVICE EVER RECEIVED “My husband told me that every day won’t be fun, and he was right—there have been many sleepless nights. I took his advice as a challenge to stay the course and leave the world a better place.”

ADVICE FOR OTHER ENTREPRENEURS “If you aren’t up for a wild ride, then being an entrepreneur isn’t for you. But if you believe in what you’re doing, it’s totally worth it.”

STILL ON THE PROFESSIONAL BUCKET LIST “I’d like to write a lifestyle and spiritual book by eventually compiling the posts from the blog I started on Thanksgiving. It’s written in stream of consciousness, where I drop anything to write on my iPad when the mood strikes. Some topics are friends and family, beauty, fitness, travel and recipes. I find it therapeutic.”

OTHER THAN YOGA, BEST WAY TO UNWIND “My favorite time of the day is when I put on my flip-flops or sneakers depending on how far we’re going and walk the dogs.”

LAST TIME YOU DID SOMETHING NEW FOR THE FIRST TIME “This winter in Park City, I tried skate skiing. where you glide back and forth on narrow skis. It takes a lot of balance and pole coordination. It looks easy but you’re pouring sweat and can’t believe how warm you are in the freezing weather.”

SOMETHING THAT’S ALWAYS WITHIN REACH “My water bottle, computer, iPod or Spotify to listen to everything from Adele to Pitbull to the Grateful Dead. Also, a good candle. Plus, my dogs are always underfoot.”

CURRENT PERSONAL GOAL “I’m training to run my first half marathon in March. After three years of not being able to run due to stress fractures, I hired an incredible running coach to adjust my stride and any other issues so I can cross the finish line.”

PERSONAL MOTTO “Grace and serenity. I say those two words when I wake up every morning.”

the movers {The Philanthropists}

Marile & Jorge Luis Lopez After lending their philanthropic talents to various causes close to their hearts, the Coconut Grove power couple takes on a new role as chairs of the 2015 Red Cross Ball.

F

or Marile and Jorge Luis Lopez it all comes down to belief. The Coconut Grove couple (he’s a wellknown attorney and political expert, she’s the CFO of their governmental affairs firm) may be a fixture in Miami philanthropic circles, but their dedication to charitable causes such as the American Cancer Society (him) and Miami Children’s Hospital (her) comes from a much deeper place than just donations. “If you really believe in something, you engage in it. Then, it becomes a lot easier to be able to ask people to do likewise, whether you’re asking them to join at a board level or make a gift,” said Jorge. This year, the Lopez’s take the helm of March’s 33rd annual Red Cross Ball, an event that brings with it a long legacy of prestige and a rich history in South Florida. After first working with the organization more than four years ago as consultants on a governmental challenge, the couple found themselves drawn to the cause. “I was involved heavily with the county right after Hurricane Andrew, and what the Red Cross did there was obvious,” said Jorge, who joined the board soon after. When they were approached to lead the 2015 gala, Marile said there was never a doubt. “When friends who believe ask you, and you believe in the mission and in the cause, and you see the need, you say yes and you step up.”

What makes the Red Cross Ball unique?

Jorge: I think what the Red Cross ball will have this year, in particular, is a reminder that this is a celebration of the year’s body of work as well as generations of work. You're celebrating a lot of work that's been going on, and what does that mean?

For the Red Cross it’s every day somebody’s being touched.

A home, unfortunately, has had a fire, or someone has had an incident, and there's care and compassion being expressed on a daily basis. So to succeed in this event you have to carry that with you.

Chairing an event like this is a big undertaking.

How did you approach it?

Marile: I looked at it as a project. I looked at the American Red Cross and I thought: "Well, who are those that I would reach out to for help?" I thought of first responders, and at top of my list was Florida Power & Light. I went to them, and brought them the opportunity of being the presenting sponsor for the gala. The reasons why were very compelling.

Florida Power & Light, who now has a member on the board as well, is not looking at this ball as a one-time opportunity either. This is a partnership now. When you chair an event, you have to think not just about the moment. You have to think how those people you help get involved continue to be involved in the future. If I do something for this one time, it’s not helping the cause—it’s helping the party. You don't want to help the party. You want to help the cause.

The Red Cross Ball committee has a long history of being female-centric. How is it being a part of that circle?

Marile: The current committee is approximately 35 ladies, and then there’s the legacy committee, where there are another 15 or so. In all, it’s a group of 50 women. It’s wonderful to see how the Red Cross Ball committee evolves, because you have these women who are pillars in our community, donors at the highest level. They bring in new friends to become better friends to support the organization. We in turn bring in new friends to support the organization, and that’s the success. The success is that it’s not stagnant. It’s evolving.

Jorge: It’s this powerhouse thing. There’s no gender barrier here. But it’s very quiet. If you go to the event, it’s very understated. But [the committee is] really grinding through a lot of things that some organizations take for granted or outsource to a vendor. This is very much hands-on.

Marile: I’ve worked with many committees because of the various roles that I’ve played in different charities, and this is one of, if not the, hardest-working committee I’ve worked with.

Text by Andrea Carneiro / Photography by Nick Garcia

Did you know?

The South Florida Region of the American Red Cross serves more than 4.4 million people in Miami-Dade, Broward and Monroe counties.

90 percent of the American Red Cross’ 17,000 workers are volunteers.

In 2012 the organization taught more than 14,000 people in South Florida how to perform a lifesaving skill such as first aid or CPR. The 33rd Annual American Red Cross Ball will take place on March 14 at The Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne. For details and tickets go to redcross.org/fl/Miami.

the movers {The influencer}

Robbie Bell

For 15 years, this Miami real estate broker has hosted the ultimate women’s lunch, with no agenda whatsoever.

Or so it seems.

W

ikipedia, that decidedly millennial knowledge source for— er —everything, says the phrase “Ladies who lunch” describes “well-off, well-dressed women who meet for social lunches” and that often “the lunch takes place under the pretext of raising money for charity.” Well, we’d like to take this opportunity to introduce the world of Wiki writers to Miami’s version of such a group: meet “The Ladies Who Lunch For No Reason At All.” Started 15 years ago by the boundlessly energetic real estate broker Robbie Bell, after she and a friend “got tired of saying ‘let’s do lunch’ and then never actually doing it,” it’s a group that comes together to share a meal just three times a year. Bell proudly insists they have “no real agenda.

It’s not about a social cause; it’s not about raising money, or networking because we all already do that. We serve on boards and are very active in the business community.”

Instead, their mission has a higher purpose, she explained: to bring together a community of highly successful African American women with deep ties to South Florida, and to constantly introduce new members to that community.

There are lawyers and doctors, judges and executives of all stripes; there are women old and young; there are those for whom Miami is a second home and who travel here from as far as Dubai. While Bell’s first lunch, back in 2000, brought together some 20 women, today more than 50 have been known to show up. They come, Bell said, to connect, to commune and to just be themselves. That they do this all over a bounty of food—and wearing spectacular hats! —is just a delectable bonus.

It is also a salient reminder that the simple act of breaking bread together and in person, especially in this age of faceless digital connections, remains enormously powerful.

And so the gatherings often take place around a formal tea service with pretty towers of perfect little sandwiches and brightly colored sweets. (The one pictured here took place in January at The Biltmore Hotel, where tea service is offered every day at 2 and 3:30 p.m.) And there is always—always!— Champagne. “This,” Bell said, “is a drinking crowd!” Happily, it’s also an inspired one.

Text by Betty Cortina-Weiss / Photography by Felipe Cuevas

the movers

{The EXPERT}

Justin Trabert Having been recently named National Brand Ambassador to famed French house of silver Christofle, he’s on a quest to explain the fish knife— and other artful table matters.

the movers

t’s true, even for the most sophisticated among us. Sitting down to a formal dinner can, on occasion, be intimidating.

With a maze of silverware, dishes and glasses tauntingly staring back at us from a table, it’s no wonder we can wind up wondering: Which is my bread plate again?

The fear, of course, is that we’ll gauchely grab the dreaded wrong thing and everyone nearby will notice and scorn. (The truth is, of course, they’re likely just as bewildered.)

Enter Justin Trabert, manager of the Bal Harbour Christofle store and national brand ambassador for the company, a man on a mission to demystify such tables.

Through a dinner series he recently launched called Art of the Table, he hosts intimate soirees where, with a healthy helping of humor, he offers advice, insight and an easy map for navigating the most complex

better? In fact, Trabert will often explain, napkins originally did go around the neck.

Then, back in the Elizabethan era, full-ruffled collars came into fashion for men’s shirts, and fastening napkins around the puffy lace pieces became difficult. And so the napkin migrated to the lap—and never migrated back.

The parties, which Trabert frequently hosts for charities or in private homes, all begin with a Champagne cocktail to create a festive mood. Guests are then ushered into an elegant dining room set with silverware and stemware. After seating, Trabert begins his presentation, starting with an explanation of why linens are used and building from there, as each course is served. The tablecloth, for instance, was once called “the accidental cloth,” Trabert said. Early Roman hosts did not provide napkins but rather layered

how to claim a bread plate as one’s own.

“Galas try to squeeze as many people as they can at a table and sometimes that creates confusion,” Trabert notes. He teaches a simple trick designed to help people remember: create a letter “b” with your left thumb and index finger; then create a letter “d” with the right thumb and index finger.

The bread plate, like your letter “b,” will always be on the left; the drinks, like the letter “d,” on the right.

Trabert’s success—he earned his ambassador title a little over a year ago after holding one of his dinners in New York for Christofle executives, who promptly promoted him and asked him to take his show on the road to cities across the country—comes in part from the nonjudgmental atmosphere he creates, an anomaly in the very judgmental world

Through a dinner series he recently launched called Art of the Table, he hosts intimate soirees where, with a healthy helping of humor, he offers advice, insight and an easy map for navigating the most complex of settings. of settings. Several times a month, Trabert hosts these elegant evenings, where he delves into the history and etiquette of formal dining. “Etiquette was not devised to make people uncomfortable,” said Trabert, who has hosted the dinners around the country, from the Hamptons to Houston. “When you break down why we do what we do, and understand the history behind it, you’ll see the reasoning and you’ll remember.”

The rules of fine dining have become something of an obsession for Trabert, who has spent the last year and a half scouring some 15 etiquette books, assembling his now encyclopedic knowledge of the arcane customs that govern the formal dinner party.

He regales guests at his dinners with the obscure stories that often lay behind modern traditions. One example: why are napkins placed on laps instead of around necks, where one would think they protect clothing

tablecloths one on top of the other; the cloths served as a communal napkin, which was removed after each course, revealing the cloth underneath. The final cloth was removed when dessert arrived, and the table would be left bare. “The word dessert is derived from the French verb desservir, which means to clear the table,” Trabert explained, making the connection.

In fact, many table setting habits originated in much rougher times. Why is the dinner knife always placed with its blade facing toward the plate? “Once upon a time, the knife was the only utensil people had,” Trabert said. “Men used it for hunting and for safety and for eating. To point the knife, even its side, at a neighbor was offensive, as if the blade was drawn.”

Trabert’s guests often ask lively questions, mostly having to do with trying to figure out which glass to grab for a swig, or exactly

of etiquette. “Many of the questions come when people compare what their mothers taught them to what I’m describing,” he said.

“I say etiquette has many regional nuances.

Nothing is set in stone. In all the studying I’ve done, I see that one book will say one thing and another book will say another.”

For all of his knowledge and experience, Trabert can himself be awed in certain settings.

In January, he was asked to host one of his dinners at Martha Stewart’s Wedding Party, a special high-end event for people planning weddings in New York City. “There, I was a little bit intimidated,” he admitted.

“But, that’s okay. I’m eager to learn.”

So what to do if the unthinkable happens: you’ve grabbed the salad fork and unleashed it on your fish course? “Keep using it,” Trabert said, adding it’s okay to loosen up a little. “It’s not the end of the world.”

Text by Danelle Morton / Photography by Nick Garcia

the life

D I N I N G . E N T E R TA I N I N G .

A N D H AV I N G F U N I N T H E 3 0 5 .

An assortment of chocolates from Buena Vista Chocolate & Wine, where the descendant of a French royal chocolatier makes them by hand.

Boxes & Bonbons {THE DISH}

PHOTO BY FELIPE CUEVAS

Where to score Miami’s best chocolates this Valentine’s Day.

t’s easy to skirt tradition when it comes to festive fare. But on Valentine’s Day there’s no compromising—it’s chocolate that rules. Revered by the Aztecs for its aphrodisiacal and strengthening properties, and associated with the lovers’ holiday since the mid-19th century, chocolate today remains the most delectable symbol of romance.

Situated squarely between Latin America (where the best cacao beans are thought to originate) and Europe (where Belgian and Parisian creations draw tourists in droves) Miami sits at the very crossroads of chocolate.

Here are six of the city’s top shops to savor an international spectrum.

Chrome Hearts trades in chocolate kisses for crosses, the signature motif for the Los Angelesbased home and fashion brand with devoted collectors worldwide, from Karl Lagerfeld to Kate Hudson. The new lifestyle store and art gallery in the Miami Design District is the brand’s first retail location to install a chocolate bar with hand-poured dark and milk varieties flown in daily. Pick up a box to share over cortaditos at the on-site David’s Café. 4025 NE Second Avenue, Miami; 786-953-7384; chromehearts.

the life Clockwise from top: The chocolate section at Chrome Hearts in the Miami Design District; Romanicos’s whimsical designs; roses adorn a chocolate heart at Cacao Art. Below: Cao chocolates topped with nuts and fruits.

Romanicos truffles taste homemade because Venezuelan chocolatier Alejandra Bigai, who owns the Coral Gables chocolate emporium, uses her grandmother’s traditional French recipe. She also eschews hard shells for dustings of cocoa or coconut so the pure dark ganache yields a meltin-your-mouth experience. Her Valentine’s special creation surrounds a berry and pink champagneinfused center with powdered sugar and freezedried raspberries for a SweeTarts effect. Just in time for the holiday, too, she expanded the café, where you can also fall for her hot chocolate and milkshakes. 1801 Coral Way, Coral Gables; 305-854-9936; romanicoschocolate.com.

Cao is perfect for chocolate purists since it roasts its own cacao beans, which are handpicked at small plantations in Venezuela and a few other Latin American countries. Here, it’s all about trusted, 100% fair trade sources. After removing the bean’s nib, co-owner Ricardo Trillos uses the shells to create balanced tea blends that incorporate lavender, chai and other ingredients.

He makes holiday gifts especially easy through his boxes of chocolates paired with a bottle of red wine or champagne. 9800 SW 77th Avenue, Miami; 305-879-0281; caochocolates.com.

As Florida’s oldest chocolate shop dating from 1947, Jimmie’s partners still use founder Jimmie Vonglis’ original recipes and sources. Current resident master chocolatier Ken Smith, who left a law career to follow his chocolate passion, now produces 150 options, including 25 types of truffles and nine fudge flavors on any given day. Heart-shaped boxes hold up to 125 pieces, with holiday-themed truffles like champagne and rose water. Customers usually throw in a few extra fresh-picked strawberries, double-dipped in white and dark chocolate, for themselves.

148 North Federal Highway, Dania Beach, with locations in Wilton Manors and Davie; 954-922-0441. jimmieschocolates.com.

Though chocolate was discovered in South America, it was the French who turned

it into a true art form. Claude Postel—a descendant of the royal chocolatier for Philippe d’Orleans, grandson of France’s King Louis XIII—continues the family business at his Buena Vista Chocolate & Wine, where heirloom chocolate molds serve as decor.

The Francophile’s fantasy spot proffers oldfashioned delicacies like Le Mentchikoff, a meringue-swirled ganache that hails from Chartres, just outside of Paris, and a tea made with apples from Marie Antoinette’s actual orchard. More sensual V-day themes are hidden from view, but ask and you shall be shown. 4512 NE Second Avenue, Miami; 305-396-6056; buenavistachocolate.com.

Sisters Isabel and Susana Garcia have found the perfect new home for their Cacao Art in the Bird Road Arts District. Prior to relocating their atelier, their edible masterpieces, such as the Tupelo honey and cardamom bonbon that won an Alice Waters-judged 2014 Good Food Award, were only available online. By press time, they’ll know if their follow-up, a Venezuelan ganache infused with Ethiopian beans roasted at Panther Coffee, also triumphed. For a witty Valentine, anatomically correct hearts ooze raspberry filling.

7165 SW 47th Street, Unit 316, Coral Gables, 786.397.2301, cacaoart.com.

Text by Rebecca Kleinman

the life The celeb chef’s trick to whipping up these little orbs of deliciousness?

It’s not what you’ve been taught.

T

{THE recipe}

Making Meatballs Like Fabio Viviani TEXT BY BETTY CORTINA-WEISS / PHOTOGRAPHY BY FELIPE CUEVAS

here are a few things that inspire deep emotion in Fabio Viviani, the Top Chef alum who recently opened Italian food emporium Siena Grill on South Beach. One of them: memories of his childhood in Florence, where he grew up in a family so poor they didn’t have an oven at home. (“We had an old chimney and we’d put a hot plate in it and that’s what we used to cook.”) Another: the scrumptious perfection that was his late nonna’s apple pie. (“Now, every time I eat apple pie I cry because it’s not as good as hers, and it reminds me she’s no longer with me.”) Then there’s the topic of meatballs, a sacred theme that thrusts his Italian bravado into even higher gear, an impassioned, ardent state of excitement—and certainty. “What are you talking about?” Viviani implores hypothetically, referring to the usual meatball-making rules he hears bandied about. “I hear people say things like ‘sear the meatball to lock in the juices.’ Or ‘blending the beef with other meats will make it taste better.’ None of that makes sense to me. In fact, it goes against everything I know.”

And so, he declared recently, he’s on a mission to “give meatballs a new lease on life in this country!”

If Viviani hasn’t exactly been the sole author of the meatball’s latest chapter of popularity— they’ve been enjoying a comeback for the last few years, boosted by the country’s current comfort food obsession—the Chicago-based chef, who lives part-time in South Florida, has certainly helped bring the tasty little orbs into the digital age. Yes, folks, Viviani’s meatball has its very own Twitter account—@sienameatball.

A version of this meatball has been on each of his menus since Viviani opened his first restaurant in Florence, nearly 20 years ago at all of 18. He’s always relied on prime beef cuts (the Miami version is made with wagyu!) as the main protein, and scented it with garlic, fresh basil and nutmeg plus a blend of cheeses to inject juiciness.

It’s a dish unequivocally steeped in his heritage, served not with pasta (that would be Italian-American, not wholly Italian like he is) but rather with a robustly flavored tomato sauce and a hunk of crusty bread to help soak things up.

The secret to his dish’s success, Viviani said, lies in the fact that he disregards the popular adages that surround meatball making theory. Take, for instance, the one that calls for blending beef with other kinds of meat. “Pork is dryer and leaner than beef and it has much less flavor,” Viviani said, “so I’m not sure why anyone would remove a portion of beef and replace it with pork. And veal? Yes, it’s tender but that’s because it’s the meat of a baby calf, which has little flavor because it’s so young.”

He instead suggests going for a good cut of flavorful beef—like sirloin—and having it ground.

What about all this searing business? “A lot of people will tell you that it helps lock in moisture,” he said. “That’s ridiculous!

The meat is ground; there is no moisture to seal in. It’s like trying to hold water in your hands.” His way of making sure the meatballs don’t dry out, he said, is to add a whole pound of ricotta cheese to the meat mix. To take things over the top, after roasting off the meatballs in the oven for a few minutes, he tosses them into the flavorful tomato sauce and lets them simmer for a good long

while. “Now that,” he said, “makes them super moist, and the flavor is amazing.” Here, Viviani shares his recipe for what may well be his most famous creation.

FABIO VIVIANI’S MEATBALLS Makes 10 6-ounce meatballs Ingredients 1 hoagie or sub roll ½ cup heavy cream 3 pounds ground sirloin 1 small onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 pound soft ricotta cheese, plus more for garnish 1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated 10 leaves basil, chopped 2 eggs ¾ cup ground Panko bread crumbs 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg Zest of 1 lemon Kosher salt and cracked black pepper, to taste Prepared tomato sauce 1. Soak bread in heavy cream.

Combine the soaked bread with rest of ingredients in a large bowl and mix with hands or using stand mixer, until well incorporated.

2. Place the mixture in the refrigerator to set, about 2 hours.

3. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Roll out 10 meatballs and place them on a baking pan.

Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to 325 degrees and bake another 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove meatballs from the oven and place in a large pot with your favorite tomato sauce.

Simmer for one hour, until meatballs are extra tender.

Serve over a bed of tomato sauce and top with extra ricotta.

the life {THE POUR}

How to always find a great bottle of

WINE

Heath Porter, the wine genius behind Uvaggio in Coral Gables, is always on the hunt for great wine.

Here, he shares his secrets to finding terrific bottles.

H

e may have grown up in a dry county in northern Alabama, but Heath Porter, the self-described Head Wine-O at Uvaggio, the recently opened Coral Gables wine bar, has more than made up for lost time. Unapologetically bold and unpretentious, he’s a self-taught wine nut who spent years working for high-end resorts, in West Virginia, Georgia and Hawaii, as general manager and wine and spirits director. Along the way, he learned to love wine in his own no-nonsense manner, which is now on full display at Uvaggio, where the menu’s small plates are designed to go with the wines, not the other way around. INDULGE caught up with Porter to get his advice on how to navigate wine lists, deal with wine snobs and find something worth drinking.

DO YOUR HOMEWORK Porter taught himself about wine, researching and reading online.

While you don’t need to become an advanced sommelier, doing your own research will ensure you won’t be what Porter calls “that guy.”

“You don’t want to be that guy who walks in and tries to order the second cheapest thing on the menu,” Porter said. “That’s the old standby.” He suggests calling the wine bar or restaurant you’re planning to visit. “Most will be happy to send you a copy of their wine list.”

You’ll likely notice, he added, that a lot of places offer the same wines. Look for something different. “Maybe you’re looking for a pinot noir and, of course, everyone automatically starts looking at Oregon and California,” he said.

“But maybe they have one that is a little off the beaten path. For example, we offer things from Slovenia and smaller regions in Italy and France.”

Most important: don’t be afraid to ask questions. “In this day and age, the pretension around wine should be gone. If someone looks down at you because you ask questions, go somewhere else. You’re the one spending the money.”

FIND YOUR COMFORT ZONE Don’t let people intimidate you or lull you into drinking what they say is good, Porter advised. “Don’t be scared. Understand your palate and what you actually want to drink, because everyone’s palate is as different as their thumb print.”

Find what you’re comfortable drinking. “If you like sweet wines and you want to drink Rieslings, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t be able to drink Rieslings. To me, it’s all about finding your comfort zone for your individual palate.”

Porter complains that when it comes to deciding what to drink, there’s too much following, and not enough adjusting to the situation. “Cabernet is not always the best choice. If you’re in South Florida, where the typical room temperature is around 80 degrees, a 15.5% alcohol, full-body red wine is probably not the best thing to go with ceviche and oysters on the half shell.”

REMEMBER: THE MOST POPULAR WINES AREN’T ALWAYS THE BEST VALUE There’s a reason Porter, a former wine buyer, prefers to try wines off the beaten path. “There are certain wines you know are going to be purchased by nine out of 10 people because they refuse

to drink anything else. And guess what?” he said. “Those get the biggest markup.” If you don’t know what to try, just ask. “If you go to any sommelier, they usually have something that is either not on the list or that you’ve never heard of. It’s probably something at a better price and still fits the same profile you’re looking for.

“That,” he said, “is one of a professional’s favorite things to do: to turn you on to something you’ve never heard of that is at the same cost you’re looking at. Who doesn’t want to help people enjoy themselves more, save money and be return guests?”

EXPERIMENT WITH REGIONS Once you know what you like—pinots as opposed to zinfandels, for example—venture out and try wines from places you may not know. “There’s always going to be somewhere new and upcoming,” Porter says. “If you like New Zealand sauvignon blanc, you can probably find something from the Loire Valley in France, maybe even the central coast of California, that is in that same price range and ends up being just as good if not a better production. “If you’re looking for pinot noir and you like everything from California, maybe get out of that box and find a small producer that does everything organically from a farm in northern Italy.” Bottom line: there are thousands of styles, producers, countries and regions. “There’s a lot of good stuff out there; we now have options to try that we didn’t before.

You don’t want to pigeonhole yourself into nothing but California and Napa Valley when there’s so much more out there.”

Text by Ronnie Ramos / Photo by Felipe Cuevas

the life {THE NEIGHBORHOOD}

Surfside Kissed by the Atlantic and tucked between Miami Beach and Bal Harbour Village, Surfside boasts a population of about 5,000 and a two-block downtown. Incorporated in 1935, the town remains one square mile of beachy, old-school charm, even as it gains a few new starchitect-designed condo projects.

Meet our guide.

Belkys Nerey, co-anchor of Channel 7 News, moved to Surfside in 1997, when she was still warming the anchor chair on WSVN’s poppy Deco Drive.

The Cuba-born, Hialeah-raised Nerey, who was living on South Beach at the time, was on a bike ride through Surfside when she spotted a little fixer-upper for sale on Froude Avenue.

Just like that she knew she had to have it. After that came a bigger, two-story house on Bay Drive. Eventually, she traded the hassles of house ownership for a condo on the ocean. Of course, she limited her condo search to Surfside, her very own low-key paradise.

“There were always bikes out on the front porches. It felt safe and far away from the madness of the big city.”

Surfside’s scenic beach access.

What lured you to Surfside?

Every time I went through Surfside I’d see kids playing outside. There were always bikes out on the front porches.

It felt safe and far away from the madness of the big city, though it’s only moments away from that madness when I want it. It’s also a quick drive to the station, which is in North Bay Village, and sometimes I can even go home for my dinner break. If I lived in Coral Gables, by the time I got home, I’d have to turn around and head back to the station.

Belkys Nerey, WSVN Channel 7 News Anchor.

The town just gave me a real sense of neighborhood. Plus, from the start, I loved the idea that I could walk four or five blocks from my house and be at the ocean.

What’s the sexiest spot in Surfside?

There’s a little rooftop bar at the new Grand Beach Hotel that’s just gorgeous. You can go there in the late afternoon, order a cocktail and a snack and see the ocean on one side and the sun setting over the town on the other side. I discovered it not too long ago. My boyfriend and I were on a little walk and we decided to check out the hotel. We went up to the Sky Bar, ordered drinks and watched the sun come down.

It’s my Surfside secret! 9449 Collins Avenue; 305-534-8666; grandbeachhotelsurfside.com.

Your favorite Surfside experience?

The rooftop bar at the Grand Beach Hotel.

Being on the actual beach, of course. It’s much quieter up here than on South Beach.

I wake up in the morning and do the walking path right behind my condo. It’s just beautiful every single time. The seagrapes, the ocean, the people out there walking and running. I go there to breathe, meditate, have a moment of gratitude, remember

the life how blessed I am to live in such an amazing corner of the world.

Public beach access from Collins Avenue at 87th, 88th, 89th, 90th, 92nd, 93rd, 94th, 95th and 96th streets.

Your go-to spot for an unplugged bite?

Definitely Josh’s Deli. Breakfast is served all day. What more can you ask for? Especially for me, the late sleeper? I work at night, so I’m not the first person up in town. I love that I can get there whenever I get there and have an amazing breakfast and just hang out without having to be on. It’s not the Soho House.

You don’t always want the Soho House. It’s a friendly little place for quality food and coffee.

And they make the best potato latkes! 9517 Harding Avenue; 305-397-8494; joshsdeli.com.

All-day breakfast at Josh’s Deli. out. Now, it’s in a bigger space on Harding Avenue. But it’s still family-owned and delicious. I always get the same thing. Greek salad with chicken and stuffed grape leaves. Unless they have tomatoes stuffed with lamb and brown rice. Whenever they have the tomatoes, that’s what I order.

9561 Harding Avenue; 305-866-9628; thegreekplace.co.

What about your guiltiest Surfside pleasure?

I’m not gonna lie. It’s Flanigan’s.

I like meeting my family there Sundays for dinner, or I go to hang out and watch the game with a friend. It’s breezy and kid-friendly, and my nieces and nephews love the arcade room in the back, where they go while we’re waiting for a table. What’s really cool is that you meet all your neighbors while you’re in line. I don’t even look at the menu anymore. It’s ribs all the way. Still not lying. A full rack of baby backs with a baked potato or sweet potato fries. 9516 Harding Avenue; 305-876-0099; flanigans.net.

A great place to pick up a picnic for an afternoon by the surf?

The Greek Place. That’s its actual name. When I first moved to Surfside, it was on a little side street across from the post office.

It was just a counter with five seats. The place would get slammed every single day. It was mostly take-

Ribs from Flanigan’s.

Your favorite shopportunity?

Le Beau Maroc sells these gorgeous, one-of-a-kind, couture kaftans and dresses. Also amazing jewelry, soaps, oils and lotions from Morocco. It’s the kind of stuff you want to put on and then walk down a grand staircase. I want a wind machine on me the whole time. 9507 Harding Avenue; 305-763-8847; lebeaumaroc.com.

What if you need a last-minute gift?

A pretty gift from The Scarlet Letter.

With its oneblock-town feel, charming small shops and pristine beach access, Surfside is a low-key Argan oil from Le Beau Maroc. paradise.

I always go to The Scarlet Letter.

I’m a sucker for stationery. I like handwritten notes and I believe in snail mail. It’s just such a pretty store that I just like being there. There are endless options for cards and stationery and also gorgeous candles, pens, journals, picture frames. It’s the perfect place to pick up a gift. Who needs the craziness of the mall? And The Scarlet Letter always has things that feel like unique gifts, not the same-ol’, same-ol’ you find at the chain stores. 9473 Harding Avenue; 305-867-7366; thescarletletterstore.com.

Text by Lydia Martin

the life

{THE ESCAPE}

NOLA

Now!

The grand, gilded lobby at The Roosevelt New Orleans, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel.

As Hurricane Katrina’s 10th anniversary approaches, New Orleans doesn’t dwell on the past—but charges full speed ahead.

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hat a difference a decade makes.

After Hurricane Katrina’s wide wake of damage left little hope in 2005, the ever-resourceful port of New Orleans proved quite the opposite. Multigenerational diehard natives and newcomers still scoping fresh opportunity have gotten down to business, and the resulting rebound is something to celebrate. Better yet, to witness firsthand.

REX ROOMS Like the French Quarter’s famed hidden courtyards, The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans reveals its own secret world, steps from colorful Canal Street. Its exclusive club level, named Maison Orleans, is a hotel within a hotel, offering sumptuous upgrades such as rooms with hardwood floors, Nespresso machines and access to the recently refurbished Club Lounge, appointed with cozy fireplaces and a conveniently decadent Enomatic wine dispensing system.

In the main property, request a high-floor suite with Vieux Carre views or the penthouse, whose spacious terrace facing the Mississippi River is worth the splurge. Other surprises to savor: For a really different spa treatment, book the absinthe-scented Voodoo Massage, where

the priestess’ chants and drums drift one into a trance. Brush up for Jazz Fest with private trumpet lessons from Jeremy Davenport, who performs regularly in his namesake lounge.

On the quieter side of the Quarter, Soniat House occupies its former French family’s 19thcentury compound. Pricey antiques and exquisite textiles, from Bennison curtains to a Victorian-era needlework bed canopy, decorate each of its 29 unique rooms and suites. Take breakfast and cocktails on wrought-iron balconies and in gardens shaded by fern-sprouting oaks and palms.

Tops since its turn-of-the-century debut, The Roosevelt New Orleans, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel glitters again after its post-Katrina, painstaking renovation during which every chandelier crystal was polished and its block-long gilded lobby was restored to reclaim its status as a see-andbe-seen promenade. It isn’t Mardi Gras without grabbing a seat in the hotel’s Sazerac Bar, named for the famous cocktail invented at a local apothecary. Detox at the rebranded Waldorf Astoria Spa with a seaweed polish and wrap that uses OSEA vegan products like Undaria Algae Oil. Beyond a new treatment menu and relaxation room, its boutique has been rebooted with beauty and skincare products by Carita Paris and Kevyn Aucoin.

ROUX, REDFISH & RAMEN A melting pot culture coupled with the food revolution currently taking place nationwide has lead to even more of the superb cuisine that has long defined New Orleans. Not surprisingly, the city is festooned with recent James Beard awards and nominations. Among those winners (for Best New Restaurant, Best Chef: South) is Peche. Miami has nothing on its parrilla, the monstrous heart and soul of chef-partner Ryan Prewitt’s kitchen. A departure from the usual Streetcars, a fun, easy way to get around town, in front of The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans.

the life Clockwise: Chefs in prep mode at Peche’s oyster bar; jazz trumpeter Jeremy Davenport performing at The Ritz-Carlton lounge; the delicious and fresh green papaya salad at Mopho.

roux-drenched dishes served across town, Prewitt’s clean seafood stands out with woodroasted whole redfish plucked from the Gulf and smothered in a light salsa verde. During crawfish season, which ramps up in March, the delicacy appears in homemade, jalapeño-spiced cappellini. A purist when it comes to his oyster bar, too, Prewitt focuses on regional varieties like Isle Dauphine from Mobile Bay. Chefs Justin and Mia Devillier, the husbandand-wife team behind the beloved La Petite Grocery, will spread their accolades to a 19thcentury Creole townhouse in the Central Business District in early 2015. Named after the first French settlement at the mouth of the Mississippi River, Balise will pay homage to the settlers’ resilience and diversity. What might that look like?

Gulf oysters broiled in schmaltz and butter and garnished with chicken cracklings. You’ll be able to share them over aperitifs in the meandering space, which includes a tavern room, adorned with French mirrors and Alabama folk art.

Despite its reference to the classic Vietnamese soup, Mopho is first and foremost about Louisiana fare, according to its three partners, who met at chef John Besh’s acclaimed August.

For their menu, they imagine what assimilated descendants of the city’s large population of Southeast Asian immigrants might eat, a clever challenge that extends to cocktails. This is where the state’s drive-through frozen daiquiri stands meet bubble teas. Green papaya salad also gets a gourmet makeover with a vibrant cornucopia of seasonal produce. Crushed to order in a mortar and pestle, green curry paste seasons roasted lamb neck. And just about everyone starts with crunchy fried oysters and pickled blue cheese.

With so many Vietnamese choices, two longtime transplants who cooked at Commander’s Palace and Dante’s Kitchen figured Japanese deserved a turn. After researching technique from coast to coast for chewy but firm ramen (made from a mix of bread flour and alkaline salted water), chefs Eman Loubier and Brian

Armour opened the cult-inducing Noodle & Pie. Broths acquire a complex umami through natural ingredients, like beef bones and dried fish, rather than the usual monosodium glutamate. Slurp four kinds, including a vegetarian broth made with cabbage and dotted with enoki mushrooms and pickled veggies; or a blue crab-based soup topped with a fan of thinly sliced heritage pork belly. Of course, many patrons come just for pie. The pastry chef’s daily selection highlights seasonal produce such as spring strawberries.

For a taste of an old-line French Creole establishment, Brennan’s is back in all its pinkpainted glory. Delicately roasted oysters and a glass of champagne balance buttery turtle soup finished tableside with sherry and eggs Sardou.

Be sure to add on the lump crabmeat. If you’re lucky, you may spot third-generation restaurateur Ralph Brennan himself, roaming the 18th-century mansion’s themed rooms and fountain courtyard.

DIY DETERMINATION Influenced by the city’s roots in Parisian ateliers, shops here stress local, or at least artisanal, wares. Avant-garde fashion emporium Weinstein’s carries Limousine eveningwear designed by Lisa Iacono, owner of the Nola Sewn clothing factory, and Suzanne Perron, society’s

go-to for Carnival gowns. A native photographer founded Krewe sunglasses, whose incredibly lightweight acetate frames and CR-39 lenses are handcrafted in small batches in Italy. Try on every style named after local streets (Julia) and neighborhoods (Lower Garden District) in his postage stamp-sized store.

Spring brings Jolie & Elizabeth seersucker frocks and Kismet lipstick—makeup stylists swear by its Burnout red shade—to Hattie Sparks, an Uptown boutique that expands to the more tourist-friendly Warehouse District in May. Lettermade linen cocktail napkins, embroidered in exclusive motifs like streetcars, make for perfect souvenirs. The same can be said of Carnival-colored scarves and hand towels from Loomed Nola, which specializes in imported Turkish cotton pestemals.

BEST IN BRASS At last the city that gave the world jazz receives a state-of-the-art venue dedicated to the genre. The New Orleans Jazz Market is not only home to the New Orleans Jazz Orchestra, a 12-year-old performing arts institution led by founding artistic director Irvin Mayfield. It’s also a hub for all things jazz, from guest musicians to classes to café au lait. Starting this month, catch weekend concerts in its acoustically engineered hall, where microphones are rarely required.

Another civilized spot to hear jazz is the Little Gem Saloon, a supper club that serves soul food and jam sessions in the former stomping ground of Louis Armstrong and Jelly Roll Morton. Order a champagne cocktail and listen to today’s greats like trumpeter Kermit Ruffins and chanteuse Meschiya Lake.

Military history buffs and patriots alike can check out The National WWII Museum’s brand-new building for “The Road to Berlin: European Theatre Galleries.” The comprehensive exhibits immerse visitors in the war campaigns immediately following D-Day; the Tokyo portion is slated to open by year’s end.

Text by Rebecca Kleinman

INDULGE F E B RUA RY / m arc h 2 0 1 5

PHOTO BY FELIPE CUEVAS

Food.

In Miami, everything we eat has a story. It’s often the tale of the person standing at the stove, preparing a dish with an inherent sense of pride, blending history and heritage into exquisite perfection. Cooks, pros and enthusiasts alike, have given our city a new culinary language, one that speaks deliciously to who we are today, and what we hope to be tomorrow. On the following pages, we explore it all. Meet six powerhouse women toques dominating our dinnertime, and making minced meat of the proverbial glass ceiling. Get up close with the gastronomic mastermind bringing serious heat to the Magic City’s restaurant scene. And take a lesson from the celebrity chef who found her ultimate recipe—the one for a life well lived.

These six powerhouse women chefs, all part of this month's South Beach Wine & Food Festival, rule Miami's best kitchens. Here, they share their stories and recipes.

A league of their OWN

Text by Betty Cortina-Weiss Photography by Felipe Cuevas Set styling by Claudia Miyar Fashion styling by Rachael Russell Hair and makeup by Jorge Penn and Lindsey Friedman Shot on-site at the Thompson Miami Beach

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ADRIANNE CALVO Chef Adrianne’s Vineyard, Kendall

all it serendipity. As a teenager, Adrianne Calvo dreamed of going to college to study journalism. Though she’d been taking yearbook and newspaper courses since middle school, it was during her sophomore year at Braddock High School in Miami that a scheduling error led her down a different path. “The school, by mistake, put me in a cooking class,” recalled Calvo, who was born in Chicago to Cuban immigrant parents, but who moved to Miami when she was seven. “At first, I thought it was the end of the world, that my life was over.” While she waited for a few days for the schedule to be fixed, representatives from Johnson & Wales University (widely regarded as the Yale of cooking schools, with an outpost in North Miami) happened to come to her class to talk with students about culinary careers.

“And that was it—lightning struck me,” said Calvo, who admits that even as a kid she was obsessed with food, though more so with eating it. “Yes, I was the child who’d hang out in the kitchen after school, waiting for someone to give me a fruit roll up!”

Even all these years later, she remembers in detail what the chef instructors said on that fateful day in high school. “They made French toast, with

strawberries and bananas. They told a story about cooking for President Bill Clinton in the White House,” she recalled. “By the end of the presentation, I was hooked. I thought it was all so magical.” Using award money from cooking competitions (she entered and won more than 40!) to help pay for the hefty culinary school tuition, Calvo graduated with honors and big dreams. Still, it took some time for her to open her one and only restaurant. She briefly lost the inspiration to cook when her younger sister, at just 18, tragically died of oral cancer. “Here I was making delicious things that she would never be able to taste,” Calvo said.

“It was too much for me.”

Thankfully, she found her way back to the fascination she felt as a student; in 2003, at all of 23 years old, she opened Chef Adrianne’s Vineyard Restaurant and Wine Bar in Kendall, inspired by her first trip to Napa Valley, which she’d made just a few years before.

Today, with three cookbooks under her belt, plus a regular television cooking segment on NBC 6, Calvo said she remains infatuated with the bewitching power of food. “I still believe,” she said, “that there’s magic—pure magic— in the very moment a plate of something great is placed in front you.”

Chef Michelle Bernstein will host the A League of Their Own lunch from 11 A.M. to 2 p.m, Saturday, Feb. 21 at The Thompson Miami Beach.

See Chef Adrianne Calvo at the Grand Tasting Village from noon to 5 p.m. on Saturday, Feb. 21 at 13th Street and Ocean Drive on Miami Beach.

Salt Crusted Yellowtail Snapper.

Recipe, P. 114

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Filet Mignon Au Poivre.

Recipe, P. 114

Michelle Bernstein Seagrape, Miami Beach

hen the doyenne of Miami food— the first South Florida female chef to receive a James Beard Award, who also happens to be the person Anthony Bourdain seeks out for advice on where to eat in the Magic City—tells you it’s only now that she’s “found my comfort level,” it makes you realize something: as good as the local food scene has been lately, there’s a whole new level of deliciousness about to hit. It’s no surprise, of course, that Michelle Bernstein is leading the way, on the heels of having just debuted Seagrape, her deeply personal, finedining homage to South Florida’s natural bounty, at the Thompson Hotel on Miami Beach. “It feels really good,” Bernstein said. “It doesn’t feel at all forced.

It feels like me.” Part of it, she said, is having had the opportunity to hire and rely on people she’s worked with for years at her various restaurants, including the Mandarin Oriental’s Azul and her own Sra. Martinez, Michy’s and Crumb on Parchment.

More important, she concedes, is that she’s never been quite as comfortable in her own skin as she is today.

“I’m a lot more controlled now. I don’t get ruffled that easily. I am calm and decisive,” she said. “It’s how I am

in my cooking, and it’s how I am in my relationships.”

Chief among those relationships is one she has with a certain chubby 3-year-old, her son Zachary, who she says has taught her more about food than she ever expected. “My greatest challenge has been to get my son interested in cuisines,” said the Argentinean, Miami-reared toque. “Talk about a shot of humility.

I’ve never felt so bad about my cooking than on days he won’t eat. But then there are those days when I look in his lunch box and see he’s eaten everything I put in there—it’s the most rewarding thing in my life!”

Juggling motherhood and her jam-packed schedule (aside from Seagrape, she’s developing menus for adult and children cancer patients in partnership with Hollywood Memorial Hospital; opening another restaurant at the site of the former Michy’s; and doing charity work with Common Threads, a nonprofit that helps kids learn better eating habits) isn’t easy, but she’s developed a strategy that works for her because “it’s important to me that I come home and still be able to give my son and my husband the best of me, not just what’s left of me.” And so “I’ve eliminated the excess,” she said. “I focus on what’s simple and true. This chapter in my life, and in my food, is about honesty.”

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PAULA DASILVA 3030 Ocean, Fort Lauderdale

t is in her blood. Years ago, when Brazilian-born Paula DaSilva moved to the United States with her family, to a town just outside of Boston, the first thing her parents did was open a small restaurant and put their hearty, native cuisine at the center of its menu. And while she was only 10 at the time, DaSilva worked the family business “doing little things like peeling garlic, picking beans or helping to clean up.” Within four years, the family sold the business, moved to South Florida in search of warm weather and embarked on a similar journey once again—they opened a second Brazilian restaurant. By now a teenager, DaSilva spent even more time working at the small eatery, frequently taking over the kitchen. When she finally told her parents she wanted to enroll in the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale's culinary program after graduating from high school, they were thrilled she was following in the family footsteps. “They were really supportive and so excited that I wanted to get a serious education in food,” she said. “It was actually later, when my career picked up and I couldn’t be home for holidays because I was working so much—that’s when they were like, Hey, we’re not so sure we like this!”

And though she has long since earned her stripes and accolades as a fine-dining chef—she worked her way up from making salads, her first real kitchen job, to executive chef at Miami’s 1500°, the now shuttered Eden Roc hotel restaurant, to now running the kitchen at 3030 Ocean at Fort Lauderdale’s Harbor Marriott Hotel—she insists it was those early days in her parents’ homey operation that taught her the most valuable lessons.

“It taught me an incredible amount of responsibility,” she said, “because I saw what my parents had to put into the restaurant, and how hard they worked. They were there at 6 in the morning to receive food deliveries and they were there until closing. When budgets were tight, they did it all—mopped floors, cleaned the hood, anything and everything that needed to get done.”

Today, DaSilva remains fond of her early days in Brazilian cuisine, but makes a point to say her food now crosses international borders. “My ethnic background does come through in my cooking, but only in subtle ways,” she said. “I might cook a chicken dish or use a black bean puree for something. But I don’t want people to think my restaurant is Brazilian, because it’s not. I don’t shy away from it, but that’s also not the only thing that defines me.”

See Cindy Hutson at Surf & Turf: A Sustainable Seafood Dinner from 7 to 10 p.m. on Friday, Feb. 20 at the Red Fish Grill, 9610 Old Cutler Road, Miami.

Lobster Ravioli with Corn Veloute.

Recipe, p. 115.

See Paula DaSilva compete at Goya Foods’ Swine & Wine from 5:30 to 8:30 pm on Sunday, Feb. 22 at the Biltmore in Coral Gables.

I Slow Roasted Pork Butt, Spicy Baby Potato Salad, Heirloom Beans, Chimichurri.

Recipe, p. 114.

Cindy HutSon

Ortanique, Coral Gables

n the beginning, there were tears. Lots of them.

“I’d cry every night,” Cindy Hutson recalled of the days in the early 90s when she cooked at Norma’s, her first Caribbean eatery on Miami Beach. “I had no confidence. Every night, I stared at 15 tickets hanging on my board. All I could think was, My God, how am I going to get through this? I was convinced I was doing everything wrong.” It turns out the only mistake the self-taught Hutson was making was second-guessing herself. In the midst of her self-esteem crisis, a critic published a review in the local press calling the restaurant—and Hutson quotes the exact words all these years later— “the jewel of the Caribbean on Lincoln Road.” From then on “I never cried again.”

Becoming a chef had never been part of Hutson’s plan. The New Jersey native never indulged in lofty dreams of culinary school, never imagined herself wearing pristine chef whites. Instead, after high school, she enrolled in an assistant nursing program and worked at a hospital for disabled children for two years. But the northeastern winters wore on Hutson, whose most treasured memories were made during the summers she spent on the Jersey shore fishing with her father. “I loved being near the water,” she said.

“And I wanted more of that.” She was just 19 when she decided to leave Jersey for good. “I packed up my car, broke my parents hearts and drove down to Miami.”

At first, she worked taking travelers on chartered fishing boats to Bimini and the Keys. Then she started cooking “because the people would come back with their catch, give it to me to butcher and cook for them.” She married twice and had three children (now 24, 27 and 30) before she met the man who’s now her partner in both life and business, Delius Shirley, whose mother Norma, as it happens, was considered the Julia Child of Jamaica. “He helped me understand how to be chef,” she said. “I could cook, yes, but I didn’t understand the business. He’d grown up in restaurants and he really helped me.”

Today, Hutson’s trajectory speaks for itself: Ortanique on the Mile has been in business for 16 years, a lifetime by restaurant standards. She has an Ortanique in Grand Cayman and runs the kitchen at the Dunmore Hotel in Harbour Island. This summer, she’s planning to open Zest, a fine dining room and to-go market on Brickell. “I never imagined I’d be a chef,” she said.

“But I found my path and I know I’m doing exactly what I was meant to do.”

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Dena Marino

MC Kitchen, Design District

he was nothing if not determined. Shortly after graduating from New York’s Culinary Institute of America, Dena Marino stumbled on a magazine article about an Italian chef making mighty waves in Napa Valley. His name was Michael Chiarello, and his storied wine country restaurant was at the forefront of the farm-to-table and artisanal movements.

“I want to meet him!” thought the New Jersey native, who felt an instant connection because she too came from an Italian family. So she called an uncle who lived in San Francisco, asked if she could come for a weeklong visit—and would he drive her to Napa? “We tried getting into the restaurant but couldn’t,” Marino said. “So we wound up at the market next door. Well... guess who walked into the market?”

Stunned at the sight of her gastronomic hero, Marino could barely muster up the courage to say something to Chiarello. “But my uncle talked to him and brought him over. I told him I’d graduated from the CIA and he told me about the things they were working on—banquets, a wedding, 500 dinner reservations.” And then came the words Marino almost couldn’t believe. “What are you doing later?” Chiarello, a fellow CIA grad, asked.

“How about you suit up and work with us?” Marino,

who had no chef whites with her, or knives, or anything she’d need to make a proper impression on the towering culinary figure before her, responded with the only answer that came to mind. “Yes!” And just like that the professional relationship that would shape the rest of Marino’s career was born. She worked until 1 a.m. the next morning and Chiarello asked her to return the next day again; after her second stint “he told me: Go home, give two weeks notice where you’re working and come back to work with us.” For the next five years, Marino worked under Chiarello at Tra Vigne, then one of America’s most highly regarded kitchens, “and he taught me everything.” She went on to open Chiarello’s Ajax Tavern in Aspen and later the highly acclaimed D19, before finding her way to Miami in 2010, when she finally got to put up her own shingle at MC Kitchen, her elegant Italian food emporium, in the Design District.

Today, Marino, who’s husband runs the restaurant’s front-of-the-house and whose 7-year-old son can frequently be found pretending to work at her adjacent mercato, is the one receiving accolades. In 2013, Esquire named MC Kitchen one of the country’s Best New Restaurants. “I look back on those old days now and I just laugh,” she said. “We’ve come a long way.”

Prawn Ceviche Salad.

Recipe, p. 115.

Chef Dena Marino will host a Modern Italian Feast Dinner from 7 to 10 p.m.

Thursday, Feb. 19 at MC Kitchen, 4141 NE Second Avenue in the Design District.

See Chef Eileen Andrade at Olmeca Altos Tequila’s Medianoches & Mixology from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Saturday, Feb. 21 at the Wynwood Walls, 2520 NW Second Avenue, Miami.

E Garganelli Bolognese with Venison, Pork and Porcini Mushrooms.

Recipe, p. 115.

Eileen Andrade

Finka Table & Tap, Miami

ileen Andrade’s popular southwest Miami restaurant, Finka Table & Tap, is where she meticulously blends her native Cuban cuisine with Peruvian and Korean ingredients and techniques, inspirations she’s picked up along her travels and journey to becoming a chef.

It is a beautifully appointed space, where every detail— from delicately stenciled plates to exposed brick walls and rustic farm-style tables—is picturesque, purposeful and homey. So it’s almost impossible to imagine that, just one year ago, what stood in Finka’s place was something so monumentally different.

“It used to be a Kentucky Fried Chicken,” Andrade said with a chuckle. “The space we now use as our patio—that used to be the drive thru!”

Andrade’s mother (who, with her father and grandparents, founded the Cuban dining landmark Islas Canarias in 1977) convinced Eileen to enclose the area and use it for seating, a thought that initially made her nervous. “I was afraid it would make the restaurant too big, and that I’d never be able to fill it,” she said. “But my mom was right. Today, even with that space, we can’t seat everyone who comes in.”

Charming as her modesty is, it should not have

come as a surprise to Andrade that she would do so well. After all, she and her brother, Jonathon, had built a cult following in 2012, when they launched their food truck, CubanCube, and became famous for creating dishes with names like the croquetaco and the freakin’ frita, and for dubbing their devotees Cube-Ins. Still, last year, when it came time to write the menu for Finka, the first brick and mortar venture where she would be the kitchen star, the 26-year-old Andrade played it safe. While she had fun with some of her creations—think Cuban fried rice with shrimp, maduros, cilantro aioli and topped with a luscious fried egg, and mac-and-cheese with carne asada—she wanted to include traditional interpretations of certain Cuban classics like camarones enchilados and roasted pork chunks. “If the whole family came for dinner,” she said, “I wanted something for abuela on the menu.”

But now, emboldened by the reception her dishes have received—drive by Finka on any weekend and there’s a line out the door—she’s tossing the safety net.

“We’re redoing those dishes. From now on abuela’s camarones will be large prawns in a really nice sauce with a plantain mash and fried carrots,” she said.

“And she’s going to love it!” ☐

John Kunkel, chief executive of 50 Eggs, Miami’s largest, privately owned restaurant company, in the kitchen of his Miami Beach home.

MAN on

We go home with Miami’s hottest restaurateur to talk life, success and the secrets behind some of the city’s most delectable eateries.

Text by Betty Cortina-Weiss / Photography by Felipe Cuevas

Restaurant owner John Kunkel is pondering his grandmother Lewellyn’s fried chicken. The impossibly juicy, perfectly crisp concoction on the menu at Yardbird, his Miami Beach paean to Southern food, elicits a confession: “It’s her recipe we use to this day, the same simple fried chicken I had on Sundays growing up in Georgia,”—a refreshing admission in this age of celebrity chef-dum and sous vide everything — “even though I’m fairly certain that when she gave us the recipe, she left something out. Because if you know anything about the South, it’s that Southern cooks do not give up their recipes. Call it severe pride.”

Or call it severe prowess, which allowed Kunkel to take a humble family recipe and place it at the delectable center of 50 Eggs, the local gastronomic empire he built from the ground up that’s become Miami’s largest privately held restaurant company. (It’s the engine behind not only

Yardbird but also Swine, in Coral Gables, and Khong River House, just off Lincoln Road.) That Yardbird, within two years of opening in 2010, garnered a James Beard Award nomination (the Oscars of food!) and earned a spot on Bon Appetit’s list of 50 Best New Restaurants, is as impressive as Kunkel’s other feat—inspiring an unapologetic adoration of utterly deep-fried food in the land of bikinis and Red Bull.

Indeed, cooking up such magic has become a thing for Kunkel. Swine, which he opened shortly after Yardbird, quickly earned status as a porcine destination off the usual culinary beaten paths that are South Beach, Brickell and the Design District; and Khong earned its own James Beard nod, less than a year after opening in 2013. (Kunkel is also the creator of Lime Fresh Mexican Grill, the wildly successful healthy taco chain he launched in 2004 and sold in 2012 to Ruby Tuesday for $24 million.)

S

uggest that his success is the result of an innate golden touch, however, and he recoils. “It’s not that at all,” Kunkel insisted recently, leaning into the couch in his 12thfloor, glass-enclosed office just off Biscayne Boulevard. Instead, he points to what he calls a “roll-up-your-sleeves, whatever-it-takes-to-get-it-done” attitude; the fact that he’s been toiling in restaurants since the age of 15, in every imaginable post, from dishwasher to line cook, bartender to general manager; and a deep-seated determination to pursue perfection at all costs, which he admits is a constant source of both agony and ecstasy. “For me, this is all terrific, but it’s also very fragile. I believe we’re one bad day, one bad review away from being out of business,” he said. “And the truth is, I don’t ever want to lose that. I am fanatical. I want things to be flawless, and I take it all personally.”

That profoundly personal work ethic was passed on to him, Kunkel said, by his salt-of-theearth, Southern family. Born the oldest of three brothers to a Navy SEAL dad and a schoolteacher mom, he grew up outside of Atlanta, traveling frequently to visit his grandparents, World War II veterans who lived a rustic farm life in a small South Carolina town. “It was the kind of town where there was one stop light and a population of 100,” Kunkel, now 43, said. “My grandparents had a one-acre garden on their land, where they grew just about everything they ate. I remember the pantry in my grandmother’s kitchen. It was lined, floor to ceiling, with jars filled with beautiful tomatoes, green beans, peppers. That pantry became the inspiration for Yardbird.”

Today, he’s married with his own family (his wife of 17 years, Alison, is a former hospital publicist; their kids, Thomas, Lilly and Jack, are 10, 8 and 3, respectively) and he works hard to strike a balance between the demanding 24/7 life of a serial restaurateur at the top of his game and his role as dad and husband. He makes it a point to drive the kids to school every morning on his way to work, cook weeknight dinners frequently and whip up egg sandwiches and waffles on for weekend breakfasts. Such simplicities matter, Kunkel said, and are the kind that left an indelible mark on his own childhood. “I’m pretty simple in where I find my pleasure,” he said. “I literally love being at home with my family.”

As if there weren’t enough plates already spinning, Kunkel is turning up the heat once again. In January, he and his team opened Yardbird in Las Vegas at the Venetian Hotel. He’s in the midst of gutting and renovating a threestory MiMo district office building, slated to be the expansive new 50 Eggs headquarters, complete

with a high-tech test kitchen and training facility.

And he’s on the cusp of launching three more dining concepts in Miami: a Yardbird spin-off centered exclusively on his prized fried chicken; a small, ultra fine dining restaurant; and a casual spot that will be called BTW (as in burger, taco, whiskey—a few of his favorite things!)

In between flights, phone calls and creative meetings, Kunkel sat for two in-depth conversations—one at his office, the other at his Miami Beach home—with INDULGE’s Betty Cortina-Weiss and talked about the early kitchen incident that nearly did him in, the stinging challenge that taught him to be a better leader and the art of taking risks.

I read that you started in the restaurant business as a dishwasher.

I did. It was at a buffalo chicken wing joint. I was 15 years old, but I lied and said I was 16 because I wanted to work so badly. On my first night, they didn’t have an apron for me so they took a big, black trash bag and cut three holes into it—one for my head and two for my arms—and put it on me. We were slammed, it was crazy busy, hot and kind of disgusting. And you know what? I loved it!

I loved the chaos. Soon after, I badgered the head cook to let me start working the grill station. On my first day of cooking, I was asked to slice some bread—and accidentally sliced my finger instead.

I lost a lot of blood and had to be taken to the hospital. Yeah, I was a real catch for the kitchen.

But I came right back from the hospital and pled my case. I said “My finger is wrapped and I’m coming back to work!”

You’re famous for being hands-on and in the weeds, and known for the sweat equity you invest in your businesses. Can you talk about the idea of good old-fashioned hard work?

There is no substitute for it. When I opened my first place, Taste, a little, 20-seat, breakfastand-lunch joint on South Beach back in 2001, I literally had to build it myself. I jackhammered the floors and did the construction because we didn’t have money to hire contractors. I put in 16-hour days every day, baking at all hours of the morning. I had only two people working with me, but I was the guy taking orders and serving too. In between meals, I’d deliver muffins and sandwiches to office buildings and receptionists to spread the word. My wife, who was working as a publicist at the time, would write our press releases and use her maiden name on them so it looked like we were more than the tiny operation we actually were. I’m convinced she’s the only reason anyone even knows me! It was a whatever-it-takes mentality.

I think it’s hard to be successful without it.

How did you find your way to Miami?

My father had been living between Stuart and Key West and, one winter, my wife and I came down

from rainy, cold Atlanta to visit him. We rode our bikes everywhere and said, “This is pretty great.

Let’s move!” And so about 16 years ago we did.

I got a job managing an Einstein Bagels, of all things. It paid nicely and they handed me the keys and said, “We’ll see you in a few months.”

For someone who’d been running restaurants in Atlanta the way I had been, it was the ultimate freedom. It was there that my light bulb went off about opening something of my own. I was seeing how powerful a well-built brand could work—I’d see customers come in two times a day carrying their Einstein mugs. They were so loyal. I thought: I can do this!

You put it all on the line for that first business, didn’t you?

It was the ultimate roll of the dice. I had no money, only credit cards. I took out a line of equity on my house. My wife was working so at least we had that income. I was so short on money that I had to borrow $5,000 from a friend just before opening. We had enough food to open that first week and, if we didn’t open strong, we’d have had to shut down. It was one of the most stressful times because I didn’t know if I would make it. Yet it was a sheer force of will that got me through. Failure was not an option. I think we did $60 of sales the first day and soon we were doing $600 a day. Ultimately, we grew it to more than $1 million in revenue, from that tiny little place. We hustled every day.

After Taste, you opened Lime Fresh Mexican Grill at a time when popular thought was that Mexican food couldn’t succeed in Caribbean Miami. You then brought fried chicken to body-conscious South Beach, and bourbon to Mojito territory.

What can you say about the art of taking risks?

I can talk myself into some pretty good stuff, that’s for sure! In truth, I have really become a student of the industry. I think as much risk as I took opening new concepts, I also studied enough to really understand the market, to know what was not represented and what I, at least, believed could work. The bottom line, though, is that I like being first to market. I’d much rather be the first burger guy on the block than the 10th. We have a quote printed on the wall at our office. It’s the same Theodore Roosevelt quote that, for years, was on my dad’s desk.

“It’s hard to fail, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.” That’s been truer about how I approach business and owning restaurants than anything else.

Tell me about your grandmother, the true creator of your famous fried chicken.

Her name was Lewellyn, and she was such a proud cook. Her fried chicken was our Sunday supper for years. When I was about to open Taste, she gave me her cookbook. In it was a letter she wrote to me about returning after the war, a young bride

“I’m pretty simple in where I find my pleasure,” said Kunkel, with wife Alison and kids Thomas, Lilly and Jack, having a—what else?— fried chicken (below) lunch on their waterfront patio.

“I literally love being at home with my family.”

Switching over to the home front for a moment, what’s the policy on fast food with your kids?

I’ve never actually done fast food with them! It’s not that I don’t love McDonald’s fries. But I just know I can make the fries myself and have it be something I feel good about feeding them.

In that way, my kids are incredibly sheltered.

We drove by a McDonald’s not long ago and one of them asked, “What’s the big ‘M’ dad?”

who knew nothing about the kitchen but learned to cook. Food was her way of showing love to her family, her way of offering comfort. In a way, that’s how I see what I do today. We take care of others, serve them and make them feel good.

For me, learning to appreciate food started with my grandmother. That’s why her photo is hanging on the wall at Yardbird.

Southern food is certainly within your comfort zone. But when you opened Khong River House, you went out on a limb and brought seriously authentic Asian flavor to South Florida. What was your inspiration?

I had traveled through Asia—Taiwan, Thailand and Hong Kong—when I was 18, teaching English and working at a bar to make money, and studying martial arts. My time there shaped me as an adult; it was my college, my finishing school. I fell in love with the culture, the scenery, the food and even the feeling of being the odd man out. I mean I was a six-foot redhead—you could see me coming from a mile away! Once, during Chinese New Year’s Eve, I went to a party at the family of a friend’s. There was absolutely nothing recognizable on the table. I was scanning around and finally got to something I thought looked like a bowl of scrambled eggs. I thought, “Oh, thank God!” I tried it and thought it was pretty good. My friend said, ‘I’m glad you like it.”

I asked what it was. The answer: “How do you say small intestines in English?” When we started Khong, those were the tastes and smells and memories I wanted to recreate.

Shortly after that opening, you faced some controversy over a dispute with your chef, who ultimately walked out on the restaurant.

How did you navigate that difficult time, and what did it teach you?

That was probably the toughest time for me.

I made some serious mistakes, the biggest of which was feeling like I was an all-knowing pop music producer. Like I could plug any talent into my concept, regardless of how good they actually were. I thought: You just show up and I’ll take care of everything. I underestimated the value of investing in smart, capable people of character who are also great leaders—and then getting out of their way. That was a horrible mistake, and a real stumbling block for us for a while. It lead to a dispute that played out in public and that ultimately taught me another lesson—to stay off social media! The other really difficult thing was going from being a small business, with me working the line, to a larger company with several operations. I had to become the coach, not the player. But I’d say that, in the last 18 months, those lessons have come full circle and what I learned, and the team we’ve built since then, have transformed us.

With all the flying and entertaining you now do, how do you find time for family?

My wife is able to stay home with the kids, which really helps. But I drive them to school every morning on my way to work. I try to be home every night for dinner, even though lately that’s been tough. When I’m home, I’m the cook and the kids help. Sundays are pizza night—and we make our own. They love cooking with Dad and they have their own little chef coats. I want them to have broad tastes and to want to try everything.

My three-year-old loves vegetables! He’ll eat carrots and cucumbers and raw broccoli for breakfast. He’s also recently learned to use the word blah to describe something he doesn’t like.

I’m still not sure where that came from!

What excites you most about Miami right now?

Tons! There is no place like this city. I think we’re still growing and that we’re going to soon become the adult version of a young city. But what most excites me, as a business owner and a citizen, is that we have a blank canvas—it’s a place where we can create and build. I can go get inspired by something in Singapore, in London or in Brooklyn, and I can come back home to this incredible team we have here and say: Let’s do the Miami version of what I just saw.

And we’re off to the races! ☐

Where in the world is

Nina

Compton B

Top Chef alum and South Beach resident Nina Compton enjoying down time at one of her favorite neighborhood haunts, Macchialina on Alton Road.

ack in 2012, Nina Compton already was ensconced in Miami’s pantheon of world-class cooks. Having worked under legends like Norman Van Aken at Norman’s and Philipe Ruiz at Palme d’Or, she’d recently ascended to helm her own kitchen, Scarpetta at Miami Beach’s famed Fontainebleau.

While she was a gifted toque, she was also a natural beauty, with smooth caramel skin, intense espresso eyes and an impossibly adorable pixie do.

And, so it was no surprise to those around her that, quickly thereafter, a television network came calling. Cast for the 11th season of Bravo’s hit show Top Chef, Compton was quickly voted “Fan Favorite” and competed until the very end. She took the runner-up spot, a shock to her legion of fans, many of whom still insist the top prize should have been hers.

Once the show was over, Compton quietly returned to her post at Scarpetta, assuming life, as she’d known it before the cameras, would resume. It didn’t. “Things got really crazy,” Compton said. “I just tried to keep up.” And then, in a move as sudden as a bursting flambé, she made an announcement: she was leaving Scarpetta. Her next job? “I didn’t have one lined up,” she said. “I just needed time for myself.”

Eight months have gone by since Compton, 36, made the announcement that broke foodie hearts all over Miami. And though there’s been wild speculation about what she’s got up her chef coat sleeve—will she open another restaurant? Will she star in her own show? Will she stay in Miami?—the truth is Compton has been busy doing something altogether different: living a delicious new life. For the first time in a decade, she spent the holidays with her family in her native St. Lucia. She took a cruise through Alaska with her mother, explored Portland with her husband, and discovered Europe with her siblings. She went to Capitol Hill with a cadre of fellow celebrity chefs to lobby for a cause dear to her heart. And she was named St. Lucia’s first-ever Culinary Ambassador, a post that has her traveling the globe, serving up a taste of her beloved island at every stop. You could say she’s devouring this new life, but she insists it’s something else, something more important. “I’ve learned to live in the moment.”

The Top Chef alum returned to her Miami Beach kitchen a culinary hero— then quickly took a self-imposed sabbatical.

What's she been doing since?

We caught up with Compton one recent morning and, over a cup of coffee down the street from the SoFi apartment she shares with her husband, Larry, asked her to share more about her new recipe for living.

A lot of people were surprised when you left Scarpetta last year.

Why did you do it?

There were so many things I missed because I was obsessed about work.

I began to feel that if I were not at the restaurant, it would just shut down without me. And so, I was always there. Until I finally said to myself: You know what? I will never get this time back, time for my family, time to travel and to experience things. That’s when I finally decided I needed to stop and make the time.

What was your biggest take away from Top Chef?

I think doing the show really broke me out of my shell. But it also taught me how to live in the moment. When I first got there I was all about winning, winning, winning. And then I thought, wait a minute—look at me. I’m in New Orleans, one of my favorite cities, cooking for my heroes, Tom Colicchio and Emeril Lagasse. I grew up watching Emeril on TV and here I was cooking for him! I realized it wasn’t about winning. It was about enjoying that moment. If I got kicked off the next day, that moment would be gone forever.

The world knew your name after the show. What was that like?

Once I did Top Chef, my boss at Scarpetta—the great chef Scott Conant— told me my life was going to change, that things would get really crazy.

He knew. He had done TV before too. But the funny thing is that right after the show, nothing really happened. I thought to myself, I guess Scott was wrong. But, as months passed, things started to get busier and busier.

A whirlwind of invitations, offers and calls started coming. Let’s do a book.

We want you for a TV show. Come to Los Angeles for this event. Go to this food festival over here, or over there. I was getting booked for 2015 and we weren’t even half way through 2014 yet! All of that, plus I was still running a big restaurant.

Text By Betty Cortina-Weiss Portrait by Nick Garcia

Nina Compton’s Curried Baby Goat

And you found yourself saying yes to just about every invitation?

I did say yes a lot because I thought I didn’t want to miss out on anything. I was actually afraid to say no. I mean the offers were so nice—we’ll fly you to Canada, you’re invited to teach a cooking class on an Alaskan cruise— that I figured I couldn’t pass them up.

I also didn’t want to let people down by saying no. I was trying to please everyone.

The result looked something like this: I’d spend five days in Los Angeles at a festival, take a red-eye to Miami, where I’d be spending two hours before getting on a plane to New York to attend another event. I started to feel like I was drugged.

Makes 8 servings Curry, Compton said, is “my comfort food. It takes me back to St. Lucia every time.” In her spin on the classic island dish, she adds tomatoes and greens, which are not the tradition but bring a pop of brightness. If you’re using a pre-made curry mix, one cup is plenty. Compton uses baby goat as the main protein, but feel free to substitute with beef or chicken.

For the curry spice mix 1 teaspoon Garam Masala ½ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon dry or 1 medium piece fresh turmeric, chopped finely 1 teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon cayenne ¼ teaspoon onion powder ¼ teaspoon garlic powder

What was the turning point?

I remember coming home one day after work at Scarpetta. Things were blowing up and going really well. I was insanely busy. I started to wonder: Where did I want to be in six months? Or a year from now? The problem was, despite all positive things that were happening, I couldn’t answer those simple questions. I couldn’t focus on a single next step. I was just running and running. That same day, I turned to my husband and said, “I think I need a break.” It’s amazing to have someone so supportive next to you. A lot of other people might have said I needed to keep working, to take advantage of the opportunities because who knows when they’d come again.

But my husband said two words: Do it!

For the meat 12 pounds, baby goat meat cut into 4-inch sections Salt and fresh ground pepper 8 cups of mirepoix (or equal parts celery, onions and carrots, roughly chopped) 1 bunch, fresh thyme 4 cups white wine

For the finished sauce 4 onions, very thinly sliced 15 cherry tomatoes, cut in half 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, diced into 1/4-inch pieces 4 ounces baby mustard greens or arugula 3 teaspoons garlic, sliced 3 cans of unsweetened coconut milk Fresh-picked cilantro for garnish

1. Make the curry mix by combining all the ingredients together and setting aside.

2. Rub the goat with the curry powder and refrigerate overnight.

PHOTO BY FELIPE CUEVAS

Taking that break allowed you to do some simple but incredibly meaningful things you hadn’t done in a while.

It did. Right after I left, those little things meant the most. I got to wake up in the morning and have my cup of coffee in peace, and walk my dog on the beach. I also re-read all of my favorite cookbooks and food books. Eleven Madison. Thomas Keller’s Under Pressure.

The Devil in the Kitchen. And Kitchen Confidential. I actually sat in my house for three days, in my pajamas, just reading. As I read each book, I’d stumble on something great I’d forgotten—a technique, an ingredient, a recipe. In those three days of reading, I fell in love with cooking all over again.

What other things were you free to do all of sudden?

I didn’t realize it until just recently, but I had not been home for Christmas in a decade.

I always went to see my family in St. Lucia for a few days in early December. But, as the holiday neared, I always had to say: I have to go back to work now. Well, this past holiday I finally went home—and stayed. I surprised my family. Can you imagine what that meant to my mother? It was amazing.

4 cups canned tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 quart brown chicken stock, to cover 1 ancho chile 1 cinnamon stick 2 pieces medium-sized ginger, roughly chopped

I go home four or five times a year and dig deep into my roots.

I go to the markets, to the rain forest and the fishing villages. I throw myself deep into St. Lucia because I never really had the time before.

3. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Season the meat with salt and pepper.

In a large roasting pan over medium heat, and working in batches if necessary, sear the meat on all sides, ensuring it is golden brown on each side, about 10 minutes. Once brown on all sides, remove the meat from pan. In the same pan, put the vegetables and add the herbs and spices, cooking until the onions are translucent and the vegetables tender but not browned, about 6 to 8 minutes.

4. Add the tomatoes and reduce the heat. Add the wine and use a wooden spoon to gently rub the bottom of the roasting pan, releasing the cooked meat particles. Continue to cook on low heat until the sauce reduces and is cooked down by half. Pour the sauce into a deep baking dish, then add the seared goat meat and add enough chicken stock just to cover.

5. Cover with foil paper and cook in the preheated oven at 325 degrees until the meat is tender, about 3 hours. Remove the goat from the sauce and place on a baking tray to cool. Strain the liquid through a fine strainer and reserve. Once the meat has cooled, take the meat off the bone and leave in medium-sized chunks.

6. In a medium sauce pot over medium heat, caramelize the thinly sliced onions in ¼ cup olive oil. Add the garlic and the reduce heat to low. Add the remaining spices and toast until aromatic, for about 5 to 6 minutes. This step is critical, as the spices need to develop the flavor but not burn. Add the braised goat, potatoes, braising liquid and coconut milk. Cook for 1 hour until the sauce is thick, allowing the flavors to come together. Add the greens and tomatoes and cook for another 5 minutes. Garnish with cilantro and serve with white rice.

Despite the wonderful moments, did you ever feel doubt or fear?

Not long after I left Scarpetta, with no job lined up, I did start to feel a little doubt. People would ask me all the time: What are you going to do next? Are you opening a restaurant? They’d tell me I had a small window in which I could do something and that I needed to move fast. I started feeling pressure, and wondering if I’d made a mistake. Had I left a really good job for nothing? Am I going to have to go take a job as a dishwasher when people forget my name?

I came home one day feeling really anxious, my heart racing. I was panicked. I told my husband that I thought I’d made the wrong decision. But he was great and said, “Relax, Nina, you’re fine. Stop listening to what other people tell you and do things at your own pace.”

What’s been the best experience you’ve had since then?

In December, I went to Capitol Hill to meet with senators and congressmen to lobby for a bill to get more energy and power into Africa, through the ONE Campaign. I went with chefs Andrew Zimmern, Patricia Jinich and Hugh Acheson and it was the best day of my life! I was proud to be there with people who inspire me and to know I was doing something to help others. It wasn’t about being a chef. It was about being able to speak on behalf of and advocate for millions of people who really need help. On that day, I felt a higher purpose. And, as I was walking past the White House, I thought: Look at where I am—this little island girl!

Tell me about St. Lucia. It seems to be your spiritual home.

It is. It’s where I come from, where my family lives. And it’s my greatest mission, now, to elevate the cuisine of St. Lucia. I want to teach people on the island how to be creative with local ingredients. I’ve been named their first Culinary Ambassador and I’m working really closely with the tourism board on revamping and elevating the food there. We have great food already, but I want to take it to the next level.

Working on this has allowed me to reconnect with the island in a very meaningful way. I go home four or five times a year and dig deep into my roots. I go to the markets, to the rain forest and the fishing villages. I throw myself deep into St. Lucia because I never really had the time before. I left when I was 16, and I am finally reintroducing it into my life.

Have you brought some of those flavors back to Miami with you?

I have. In December, I did a pop-up where I cooked St. Lucian food. It’s really Caribbean food. I served conch and curried goat, which are my personal comfort foods. People told me they were really happy because it was so

different from much of what we see around here today. There are so many big operations coming down to Miami now, all the big guys from New York. It makes me think, where is the local stuff? Where is the heart of Miami?

I see all this fusion and I want to say, Let’s just cook our food.

What do you crave?

I’ve gone to some fabulous restaurants and had incredible 12-course tasting menus and the food and the service is great, the wow factor off the chart. But do I crave that every day?

No. I would choose a curried chicken with white rice and an avocado over any of those meals.

And I think a lot of people feel like that too.

For me, it’s about food that hits home, food that takes us places and taps into memories, food with which we can connect.

Now that you’re traveling so much, what’s it like to eat on the road?

It’s interesting because a lot of times I’m traveling by myself since my husband works. I wind up having a lot of dinners alone. I honestly think that walking into a restaurant by myself, asking for a table for one or a seat at the bar has really helped me find and connect with myself. I also wind up connecting with people in the places I’m visiting. I was in Ottawa when I walked into a small restaurant with an open kitchen. There were three chefs on the line. I said hello and was certain they’d have no idea who I was. I sat at the bar and ordered a drink. One of the chefs came out and said, “You’re Nina, right? We think you should have won the show!” I was blown away. They asked what I wanted to eat and I said I didn’t want to look at the menu. “Just send me what you love,” I told them. It was a treat for me to be able to do that, to connect in such a personal way to a fellow chef.

So the burning question on every Miami foodie’s mind is, Will you ever open a restaurant of your own here? And if so, what would it be?

I would! But I definitely don’t want to open a huge one. I would want something small, a place where we’re constantly changing the menu and having fun. A place that’s approachable, where people can come four times a week without breaking the bank. Most important, I would want a menu that’s true to myself and to where I am today. It would be really simple but really good.

What’s still on your bucket list?

I want to travel more! I have a big map in my apartment and I was looking at it the other day, noticing all the places I haven’t been to yet.

Brazil. Costa Rica. Colombia. I want to see those places, and more, and experience them firsthand. There will always be time to work, and I just don’t want to leave this earth saying I didn’t have time to experience life. ☐

NINA’S NEW LIFE VIA INSTAGRAM

Feeling free in Miami on her Vespa with her brother.

On a hammock in her mother’s backyard in St. Lucia on Christmas Eve.

In the New Orleans French Quarter on a recent “eating trip.”

Picking fresh fruits from her family garden in St. Lucia.

FILET MIGNON AU POIVRE Serves 4 For the sauce 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 tablespoons chopped shallots 1 tablespoon drained, rinsed and crushed whole peppercorns ½ cup brandy 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 cups veal reduction (see below) For the veal reduction 4 pounds veal bones with some meat attached, sawed into 2-inch pieces 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups coarsely chopped yellow onions 1 cup coarsely chopped carrots 1 cup coarsely chopped celery 5 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed ¼ cup tomato paste 6 quarts water 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 2 cups dry red wine For the steaks 4 tenderloin steaks, 12 to 16 ounces each Kosher salt and freshly ground black peppercorns 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1. Start by making the veal reduction.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Place the bones in a large roasting pan and toss with the oil. Roast, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 1 hour.

2. Remove from the oven and spread the onions, carrots, celery and garlic over the bones. Smear the tomato paste over the vegetables and return the pan to the oven. Roast for another 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and pour off the fat from the pan.

3. Transfer the bones and vegetables to a large stockpot. Add the water, bay leaves, thyme, salt and peppercorns to the stockpot and bring to a boil.

4. Meanwhile, place the roasting pan over 2 burners on mediumhigh heat. Add the wine and stir with a heavy wooden spoon to deglaze any browned bits clinging to the bottom of the pan. Add the

contents to the stockpot. When the liquid returns to a boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 8 hours, skimming occasionally to remove any foam that rises to the surface.

5. Ladle through a fine-mesh strainer into a large clean pot. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until reduced to 6 cups in volume, about 1-2 hours. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

Remove any congealed fat from the surface of the stock.

6. Once the reduction is made, prepare the au poivre sauce. Place the black peppercorns in a dry small saucepan and toast over medium-high heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the oil and stir to combine. Add the shallots and peppercorns, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat, add the brandy, return to the heat to flambé, then simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Add the mustard and stir, then add the veal reduction and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

7. Prepare the steaks. Remove them from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour prior to cooking. Sprinkle all sides with salt and pepper. In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. As soon as the butter begins to turn golden and smoke, gently place the steaks in the pan. For medium-rare, cook for 4 minutes on each side. For additional doneness, add 1-2 minutes per side. Allow to rest 10 minutes before serving, with au poivre sauce.

SALT CRUSTED YELLOWTAIL SNAPPER Serves 4 to 6 For the fish 2 yellowtail snappers, about 2 pounds each, trimmed, gutted, scaled, rinsed and dried 5 egg whites 2 cups kosher salt 1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary 1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme 1 lemon sliced thin 1 fennel, sliced thin

For the salsa verde ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped very fine Juice of 1 lemon 4 good quality anchovy filets, chopped fine 1 tablespoon capers, drained 1 garlic clove, chopped fine ¼ teaspoon red crushed chili flake 1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Whisk the egg whites until peaks begin to form, then fold in the salt and herbs. Continue whisking until the stiff peaks form.

2. Line a baking sheet with a layer of the lemon and fennel, then place fish on top. Spoon the egg white mixture over the fish, making sure it is completely covered. Cook in oven approximately 20 minutes or until a pairing knife goes into the fish easily and the salt crust is golden. Remove from the oven.

3. While the fish is cooking, prepare the salsa verde by combining all of its ingredients together in a food processor. Set aside.

4. Carefully remove the salt crust from the top of the fish, removing its skin with the crust. Place the juicy fish onto serving dishes with a drizzle of salsa verde.

SLOW ROASTED PORk BUTT WITH SPICY BABY POTATO SALAD, HEIRLOOM BEANS AND CHIMICHURRI Serves 8-10 Slow Roasted Pork Butt 1 12 to 14-pound whole leg of pork, with skin 2 tablespoons coriander seeds 2 tablespoons cumin seeds 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons chopped thyme 1 tablespoon fresh black pepper Kosher salt 1. In a mini food processor combine the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, garlic, cilantro, thyme, black pepper and salt. Process to a paste. With a sharp knife, make slits through the skin and fat all over the roast. Spread the paste all over, really well, and be sure to get inside the slits and on the bottom as well. Cover and refrigerate

overnight. Remove the meat from the refrigerator 2 hours prior to roasting.

2. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Put the meat on a rack set in a large roasting pan and roast for about 20 minutes. Turn the pan and lower the temperature to 325 degrees and continue roasting for about 3 hours longer. Be sure to turn the pan about halfway through. Keep turning and roasting until internal temperature, in the thickest part of the roast, reads 145 degrees and the meat is really tender.

If the skin isn’t crispy enough, turn the oven back up to 450 degrees and keep roasting until the skin is crispy and crackling. Remove from the oven and let rest for 30 minutes before carving.

Spicy baby potato salad 2 pounds baby rainbow potatoes 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 5 sprigs fresh thyme 5 cloves garlic 2 small yellow onions, diced small and sautéed until translucent 2 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 8 calabrese peppers in oil, seeds removed and sliced very thin 1 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1. Rinse the potatoes and place them in a large pot with the bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, garlic and enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Season well with salt and bring to a boil for 2 minutes, until just knife tender.

2. Remove from the heat and allow the potatoes to cool in the liquid.

Drain the potatoes and cut in half.

3. In a bowl, mix the sautéed onions, scallions, calabrese peppers, mayonnaise and red wine vinegar.

Add the potatoes and mix well.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Heirloom beans A large pot of salted water, for blanching 6 cups mixed green and yellow beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon honey 1 teaspoon dried pepper flakes ¼ cup Dijon mustard ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large red onion, minced ½ cup of fresh basil and parsley leaves 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

1. In a large pot over high heat, bring the salted water to a boil. Add the beans and return to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. While beans are cooking, arrange a bowl with ice water. Once done, use a slotted spoon to remove the beans from the boiling water and put them into the ice bath.

Chill for about 2 minutes and strain.

2. In a large bowl, whisk to combine the vinegar, honey, pepper flakes, mustard and olive oil. Add the onion and herbs. Add the beans and the tomatoes and mix really well to coat evenly. Season with salt and pepper.

Chimichurri 1 large bunch of parsley picked and chopped (leaves only) 1 tablespoon fresh chives, chopped 1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped 3 jalapeño peppers, minced 2 shallots, minced Olive oil to cover 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar Mix the ingredients together and season with salt and pepper. Make one hour before serving to allow flavors to combine well.

LOBSTER RAVIOLI WITH CREAMED CORN VELOUTE Serves 8 to 10 Lobster Ravioli 2 tablespoons salted butter 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoon shallots, minced ½ cup carrots, very finely diced ½ cup celery, very finely diced ½ cup white wine 1 pinch saffron 1 cup clam stock 8 ounces dry packed scallops 1 pound mascarpone cheese 2 pounds lobster meat, diced 1 teaspoon paprika ¼ teaspoon cayenne 1 tablespoon kosher salt ¾ cup Parmesan cheese, grated 2 packs gyoza skins (available at most Asian markets) 2 eggs, lightly beaten with 2 tablespoons of water Sautéed corn and mushrooms, for garnish 1. Sauté garlic, shallots, carrots and celery in the butter until soft.

When tender add wine, saffron and

clam stock. Simmer until almost evaporated. Remove the mixture and place on sheet pan to cool. Once cooled, place the veggies in food processor and make into a paste.

Set aside to cool.

2. Place the scallops, mascarpone, diced lobster, spices and cooled vegetable paste in the food processor and blend into a paste. Add salt to taste and pulse for one minute.

3. To make the ravioli, place about 1 rounded tablespoon of the mix in the center of one gyoza skin. Place a second gyoza skin on top and seal by pressing down gently, pushing out all the bubbles and sealing with a fork and the egg wash.

Repeat until all gyoza are filled.

Place the raviolis flat on a sheet tray and freeze.

4. To cook, drop them gently in boiling salted water, while they are still frozen, and working in batches.

Remove with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl with a little butter to keep warm. When all of the raviolis are cooked, divide in bowls and top sauce with creamed corn veloute (see recipe below) and garnish with sautéed corn and mushrooms.

Creamed corn veloute Serves 8 to 10 4 tablespoons salted butter 2 cups sliced leeks (white parts only) 5 cloves garlic, sliced ¾ cup carrots, sliced 1 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 cups clam stock 3 cups fresh corn kernels (from approximately 8 cobs; reserve the cobs) 1 bunch thyme, tied ¼ teaspoon cayenne 1 tablespoons kosher salt ¼ teaspoon paprika 3 cups heavy cream 1. Melt butter in medium pot. Add the leeks, garlic and carrots and sauté for about 5 minutes, or until tender.

Add mustard and stir well. Add corn cobs, thyme, cayenne, paprika and corn kernels and bring to a simmer for about 10 minutes. Add heavy cream and simmer over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the cobs, and blend the mixture in a food processor. Pass through a fine mesh strainer. Set aside and keep warm.

GARGANELLI BOLOGNESE WITH VENISON, PORK AND PORCINI MUSHROOMS Serves 10 2 pounds garganelli pasta (you can also substitute with penne pasta) ½ cup dried porcini mushrooms 1 cup hot water 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 pound venison, ground 1 pound pork, ground 1 cup yellow onion, finely chopped 2 ½ tablespoons fresh garlic, finely minced 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely minced ½ cup dry white wine 1 cup chicken stock 2 cups veal stock 1 ½ cups canned plumb tomato puree 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper 1 small chunk, Parmigiano Reggiano 1. In a small bowl, combine the hot water with the dried porcini mushrooms. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit 25 to 30 minutes. Strain the mushrooms, chop finely and set aside, reserving the liquid.

2. In a large saucepot, heat 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Add the ground venison and pork. Using a wooden spoon, break up the meat into small pieces. Season the ground meat with ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper.

3. Once the ground meat is browned, remove it from the saucepot, leaving the fat in the pot and adding the other 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

Add the chopped yellow onions and sauté until tender but not browned.

Add the minced garlic and rosemary and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes.

Return cooked ground meat to the pot and cook for a few minutes more, to make sure the meat does not have any moisture left in it. Add the white and dried porcini liquid and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the chicken and veal stocks and the tomato puree. Mix well and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, allowing the flavors to blend and the sauce to thicken. Season to taste.

4. Just before the sauce is ready, cook the pasta to al dente, drain and toss generously with the bolognese

sauce. Gently place the desired amount of pasta and sauce into a serving bowl or dinner plate. Using a peeler, shave the Parmigiano Reggiano on top of the pasta.

Serve immediately.

PRAWN CEVICHE SALAD Serves 6 For the leche de tigre 24 ounces freshly squeezed and strained lime juice 2 ají limo (a Peruvian pepper that’s available at certain Latin markets) 1 ají amarillo (a Peruvian pepper that’s available at certain Latin markets) 4 garlic cloves 1 celery stalk, chopped 2 ounces ginger, peeled Salt 8 ounces sweet potato, peeled and diced 1 tablespoon sugar 3 pounds Brussels sprouts 2 red onions 3 radishes Peruvian choclo, blanched in water until al dente and strained (available at Latin markets) Pork rinds, crushed 1. Start by making the leche de tigre.

Blend the first six ingredients and one teaspoon of salt until fully liquefied. Strain and refrigerate.

2. Make the sweet potato croutons by cooking the diced sweet potatoes in a pot of water seasoned with 1 tablespoon of salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar for a few minutes, until tender. Strain and set aside.

3. Cook the prawns. To a pot of water over medium heat, add the prawns, garlic cloves, 3 tablespoons of salt and bay leaves and simmer until the prawns are fully cooked.

Place in an ice bath for a minute to stop the cooking, strain, set aside and refrigerate.

4. Make the salad. Thinly slice the Brussels sprouts, onions and radishes on a mandolin. Gently toss the sliced sprouts, onions and radishes (reserving a few slices for garnish) with the blanched choclo, the sweet potato croutons and the leche de tigre. Divide into serving plates and top salad with a prawn and radish slices, and sprinkle with crushed pork rinds. ☐

indulgences

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