Project Global Sourcing Caps Group 22
Paula Smith Jorinda Hendriksen Corine Dorrestein Lobke Overbeeke ETC1 E/F
Project consultant mr. B. Wevers Saxion University of Applied Sciences Academy of Creative Technology Textile Engineering and Management
Enschede, 20 mei 2014
Project Global Sourcing
Caps Enschede, 2014-06-23
Group 22 Corine Dorrestein Jorinda Hendriksen
32786 9 34764 0
ETC1Ve
Editor
ETC1Ve
President
Lobke Overbeeke
34679 1
ETC1Vf
Paula Smith
34822 8
ETC1Ve
Minutes secretary
All round support
Support consultants
Project consultants
English Prototype creation Sports fabrics
Mr. B. Wevers Mrs. L. Erkens Mrs. K. Sanders Mr. JC Hullegie Mrs. A. Tip Mrs. E. Eijkelekamp Mrs. B. Sosteric Mrs. K. Sanders Mrs. M. Bultena Mr. JC Hullegie
Saxion University of Applied Sciences Academy of Creative Technology Textile Engineering and Management
Merchandiser Product developer Business Unit Director Designer Sourcing & Costing Manager Materials Manager
Table of contents Preface.......................................................................................................................................................................... i Summary.................................................................................................................................................................... ii Introduction.............................................................................................................................................................. 1 Chapter 1: Range planning – getting started............................................................................................... 2 1.1 Market analysis................................................................................................................................................. 2 1.1.1 Running clothing market analysis......................................................................................................... 2 1.1.2 Female running market biggest market potential.......................................................................... 2 1.2 Competitor analysis........................................................................................................................................ 3 1.2.1 Top 3 competitor brands in runner freak segments...................................................................... 3 Running Freaks........................................................................................................................................................ 4 1.2.1 Top 3 competitor brands in leisure runners segments................................................................4 1.2.2 Running collection overview................................................................................................................... 6 1.2.3 Price position new collection and visuals of the garments.........................................................7 Chapter 2: Consumer segments – Thinking with the end in mind.....................................................8 2.1 Profile................................................................................................................................................................... 8 2.1.1 Leisure runner profile................................................................................................................................ 8 2.1.2 Running freak profile................................................................................................................................. 8 2.2 Visual profile translations in mood boards........................................................................................... 9 2.3 First visual design concept.......................................................................................................................... 9 2.3.1 Technical drawings leisure runner.................................................................................................... 10 2.3.1 Technical drawings running freak...................................................................................................... 10 Line plan leisure runner.................................................................................................................................... 10 Line plan running freak..................................................................................................................................... 10 Spring 2015 color story..................................................................................................................................... 10 2.4 Physical prototype choice.......................................................................................................................... 10 Chapter 3: Fabric selection – Quality comes first!..................................................................................11 3.1 Functional/performance fabric requirements.................................................................................. 11 3.2 Sustainable raw material usage.............................................................................................................. 11 3.3 Final fabric selection................................................................................................................................... 12 3.4 Needed fabric quality tests....................................................................................................................... 12 Leisure runners.................................................................................................................................................... 12 Running freak........................................................................................................................................................ 12 3.5 Fabric testing template............................................................................................................................... 13 Testing template polyester............................................................................................................................... 13 Testing template cotton..................................................................................................................................... 13 Chapter 4: Prototyping – Making it work!.................................................................................................. 14 4.1 Technical drawing......................................................................................................................................... 14 4.2 Chosen block pattern................................................................................................................................... 14 4.3 Model fashioning in scale 1:4................................................................................................................... 14 4.4 working patterns in scale 1:4................................................................................................................... 14 4.5 model fashioning in real size (size 38)................................................................................................. 14 4.6 working patterns in real size.................................................................................................................... 14 4.7 Working pattern legend............................................................................................................................. 14 4.8 Colored and specified technical drawing............................................................................................ 14 4.9 Technical Model Specification form...................................................................................................... 14 4.10 Sewing preparations................................................................................................................................. 14 Chapter 5: Production location – Preferred supplier............................................................................15 5.1 Materials suppliers locations................................................................................................................... 15
5.2 Garment production region...................................................................................................................... 15 5.3 Garment supplier selection....................................................................................................................... 16 Chapter 6:Branding – Enhance your story................................................................................................. 18 6.1 Materials brand names............................................................................................................................... 18 6.2 Top 5 materials brand names used by various running brands.................................................19 6.3 Our materials brand names selection................................................................................................... 19 6.4 Logo for Caps running................................................................................................................................. 19 6.4.1 The process.................................................................................................................................................. 19 6.4.2 Final choice Logo....................................................................................................................................... 20 6.4.3 Text versus symbol................................................................................................................................... 20 6.4.4 Logo color..................................................................................................................................................... 20 6.4.5 Logo size and placement........................................................................................................................ 21 6.4.6 Logo readability......................................................................................................................................... 21 6.4.7 Logo recognisability................................................................................................................................. 21 Chapter 7 Project team reflection.................................................................................................................. 22 7.1 Basic steps evaluation Corine Dorrestein........................................................................................... 22 7.2 Basic steps evaluation Jorinda Hendriksen........................................................................................ 22 7.3 Basic steps evaluation Lobke Overbeeke............................................................................................ 23 7.4 Basic steps evaluation Paula Smith........................................................................................................ 23 Results and conclusions.................................................................................................................................... 24 Literature and references................................................................................................................................. 25 I. Appendix, Product selection.................................................................................................................... I-1 II. Appendix, Mood boards......................................................................................................................... II-1 III. Appendix, Visual design concepts Leisure Runner..................................................................III-1 IV. Appendix, Visual design concepts Running Freak....................................................................IV-1 V. Appendix, Line plan Leisure Runner................................................................................................. V-1 VI. Appendix, Line plan Running Freak............................................................................................... VI-1 VII. Appendix, spring 2015 color stories........................................................................................... VII-1 VIII. Appendix, Testing templates....................................................................................................... VIII-1 Testing template polyester........................................................................................................................ VIII-1 Testing template cotton.............................................................................................................................. VIII-2 IX. Appendix, Technical drawing Leisure runner top.....................................................................IX-1 X. Appendix, Model fashioning in scale 1:4.......................................................................................... X-1 XI. Appendix, working patterns in scale 1:4...................................................................................... XI-1 XII. Appendix, Working pattern legend.............................................................................................. XII-1 XIII. Appendix, Colored and specified technical drawing.........................................................XIII-1 XIV. Appendix, Technical Model Specification form....................................................................XIV-1 XV. Appendix, Garment supplier selection table............................................................................ XV-1 XVI. Appendix, Logo................................................................................................................................. XVI-1
Table of Tables Table 1 , Running sport specialzed shops with their female colection brands..............................3 Table 2 , Running Freaks top competitor brands product selection..................................................4 Table 3 , Leisure Runner competitor brands product selection...........................................................5 Table 4 , Leisure Runner collection brands.................................................................................................. 5 Table 5 , Range plan CAPS RUNNING Collection........................................................................................ 6 Table 6 , Price position and visual of the Running Freak new collection garments.....................7 Table 7 , Price position and visual of the Leisure Runner new collection garments...................7 Table 8 , Leisure Runner profile........................................................................................................................ 8 Table 9 , Running Freak Profile......................................................................................................................... 9 Table 10 , Various sustainable raw materials for the clothing textiles market overview.......12 Table 11 , Range plan CAPS RUNNING collection materials suppliers...........................................15 Table 12 , Garment production regions evaluation................................................................................ 15 Table 13 , Vendor rating garment supplier selection............................................................................. 16 Table 14 , Elaboration chosen vendor rating criteria............................................................................ 17 Table 15 , Materials brand names.................................................................................................................. 19 Table 16 , Top 5 materials brand names used by various running brands...................................19 Table 17 , Final choises logo CAPS RUNNING........................................................................................... 20
Preface The project Global Sourcing is a group project that was given during the first year of the study course ‘Textile Management’ at Saxion Hogeschool in Enschede. The project cause was to develop two running collections for the European clothing brand Caps. The brand wants to launch running collections for two different female target groups: The leisure runner and the running freak. Our team consists of the Business Unit Director Jorinda Hendriksen who is also our Product Developer, the Merchandiser Corine Dorrestein, the Designer Lobke Overbeeke who also is our Sourcing and Costing Manager and the Materials Manager Paula Smith. We would like to thank Navis Sport in Aalten for their extra advice. Furthermore, we would like to thank our consultants for their availability, and especially Mr. Wevers and Mrs.Schaefer for their support and help.
Summary The goal of this project was to develop and source a new product assortment for running clothing for the textile company Caps. Caps wants to create two different clothing lines: one for the leisure runner and one for the running freak. The leisure runner is a runner that attributes value to his friends and social life. Trends are important and running is just to stay fit and to enjoy their selves together with friends in an active sporty way. The running freak is addicted to running and is focused on improving results. With these profiles in mind, our designer made 6 designs, a pair of pants, a top and a jacket for both target groups. Trend following designs for the leisure runner and practical, high quality designs for the running freak. Our CAPS Running logo is used on all the designs. Our designer together with our materials manager and sourcing manager then looked for the right fabrics to use while keeping the product types and target consumer in mind Our prices are based upon prices of our concurrent and market research concerning the used materials We have chosen some materials for the leisure runner that are good looking and have a casual vibe. Brand names we have chosen are Cool-Max and Gore- Tex. The prototype shows a casual, fashionable and sportive look with addition of Mesh. The materials of the running freak are performance materials. They help the running freak to achieve good results. We have chosen for the materials cotton and polyester. There is a good garment supplier producing in Thailand, which is able to produce all of our clothes. We have our material supplier for the leisure runner in China and for the running freak in Thailand. The costs of the producing are really acceptable
Introduction For the project Global Sourcing our team had the task to develop a running collection for the brand Caps. We made this report to research the market for Caps running collection, in combination with the question ´What does it take for a casual oriented company like Caps to enter the market for sportswear clothing?’ We have worked in a group, and everyone had a different role(s) in the group. The roles we shared were Merchandiser, Designer, Materials Manager, Sourcing/Costing Manager, Product Developer and a Business unit Director. The report is build up in chapters, which are divided into sections. The report starts at the very first beginning; choosing our target group and empathize ourselves with this group. Followed by a desk research to our competitors, deepening in consumer prices and the most suitable fabrics and brands for the running collection. A research was done on production location, the making of the prototype and our logo. Then a reflection on our roles and at last our conclusion. Everything is well devised, and the choices and questions that we were confronted with were all treated. All this, and much more, you will find in our report.
1
Chapter 1: Range planning – getting started 1.1 Market analysis 1.1.1 Running clothing market analysis Sports clothing market is a multibillion-dollar market, According to Global Industry Analysts the world sports apparel industry is expected to exceed $126 billion by 2015.[ CITATION Spo \l 1043 ] And running becoming more and more popular, the running’s share in that number will increase more and more. A research done by gfk in commissioned by NOC*NSF concerning the wishes and needs of current and potential runners shows that the biggest age group that runs is the group of people between the ages of 15 and 23.[ CITATION gfk13 \l 1043 ]. Within that group are the following runners: 0% does not run at all, 34% ran 1 up to 11 times in the past 12 months, 13% ran 12 up to 39 times and 10% ran 40 times or more. Striking is that in the following age group of 24 up to 44 years old, there are 1% less people that run 12 up to 39 times, 14% less 1 up to 11 times a year runners but 2%more fanatics that ran more than 40 times. Running’s is becoming more popular, comparing results of two researches supports This claim, one is the gfk one[ CITATION gfk13 \l 1043 ] mentioned before, the other one is a research by the CBS[ CITATION CBR07 \l 1043 ]. The CBR research shows that in 2007, 14,2% of the whole Dutch population of people between the ages of 6 up to 79 run as a way of exercise. In 2013 that number has increased up to 15%, a number based on a research group of the ages of 15 up to 80. Which means that in the percentage the numbers of the people of the ages in between 6 and 15 are not included, so the percentage has grown more than the 0,8% that it seems at first sight. The increasing popularity of running could be linked to the amount of attention dedicated to this sport. We are daily being motivated to sport in so many ways; TV and/or radio commercials, recommendations from friends/family/celebrities, sports organizations promotions, sports clothing adds, features in magazines, blogs. Part of what makes running so popular is that it is very accessible, you do not need to invest a lot and you can do it whenever you want. All you really need is a pair of running shoes and you can start as soon as you shut your front door behind you. The more people start running, the more demand there will be for running apparel. If costumers buy running clothing, they will want to make their money’s worth and run more, which will lead to more clothing purchases. There already is a big market for sports clothing, but there is also plenty of room for new competitors to enter into the market. The types of runners vary from running freaks, the super fanatics who run competitively, to the leisure runners who run for fun and everything in between. The number of running participants is still growing which also means that the market as a whole has room to grow and that companies like Caps could enter the running clothing market successfully. 1.1.2 Female running market biggest market potential The female running has the biggest market potential of all the running segments. Running used to be a hobby/sport mainly practiced by men, but more women are starting to join in on this sport form. The growth becomes visible when you compare the data of 2007, where the female competitor percentage was at 12,5, with the data of 2013, where it has increased to 13%. Also here keep in mind the gap of the participants in the different researches (numbers of 2007 is based on women from the ages of 6 up to 79, the 2013 one is based on women from the ages of 15 up to 80).
2
That is also why they have a lot of room to grow still. Runnersweb proclaims that “At the moment women are forming the fastest growing group new runners and shop owners are jumping with joy about the sales numbers of women’s shoes.” And if running shoe selling numbers are skyrocketing, that means that the female bodies attached to those feet inside those shoes are going to need garments as well. Running is definitely a trend in the women world. Women magazines are talking about it (ELLE for example with their “TIP: URBANRUNNERS” article, [ CITATION Gab14 \l 1043 ]), magazines are created especially for the running woman (like Women’s Running [ CITATION Wom14 \l 1043 ]), commercials especially focused on females are being launched (like Nike’s ‘She Runs The Night’, [ CITATION Nik14 \l 1043 ]), celebrities are promoting it (Ellie Goulding for example, who teamed up with Nike, [ CITATION Nik13 \l 1043 ]) and running contests are being organized for women only (such as the by Nike organized “We own the night Amsterdam”-run for girls only [ CITATION Weo14 \l 1043 ]). There already are a lot of suppliers of women running clothing, but because the demand is growing that means that the supply has room to grow too. And women being women, they will appreciate a broader choice in garments and can be stimulated to buy more clothing when well marketed. Caps is an already appreciated and settled clothing brand so Caps is very suitable to enter the female running clothing market. It already has its image to its advantage, which is very important when entering a new market.
1.2 Competitor analysis 1.2.1 Top 3 competitor brands in runner freak segments In the field of running freaks, there are a lot of clothing brands offering clothing for females. Personal research shows that the following running sport specialized shops hold the following brands in their female collections: Run 2 day
Runners World
Lopers Company
Sport2000
Perry Sport
All4Runnin g
V&D
[ CITATION Run14 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Har14 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Bra14 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Dam14 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Vro14 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Har141 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Dam141 \l 1043 ]
Adidas ASICS Nike Merrell
Adidas Asics Nike Runnersworl d Odlo
ASICS Nike Brooks
Adidas Asics Nike Puma
Adidas Asics Nike Falke
Saucony Asics Nike All4running
Asics Nike Puma
Only Play
Fila
Brooks
Inq
Lutha
Inq
Code Blue
Fila
Bjorn Borg
Nathan
Craft
Fitshape
York
Puma
Falke New Balance Newline Odlo PureLime Rogelli
Gore Nathan
Mizuno New Balance Polar Powerbar Born
Saucony New Balance Ron Hill
Pearl Izumi USA, Inc Gore
Puma Saucony
Run and Move
Polar Powerbar Shimano Shockabsor ber Ziener
Table 1, Running sport specialized shops with their female collection brands
3
This leaves us with the following three top competitor brands: Adidas, Asics and Nike.
Running Freaks Retail Price
Men/ Women
Fabric
Silhouett e
Size Range
Color s
Brand
Content/ Brand name
L/R F
COO
€120,00
Women
Woven
Jacket
XS-XL
2
Nike
100% Nylon
L
Asia
L
Asia
L
Asia
62% Cotton 31% Polyester 7% Celestine Bra Cup: 94% Polyester 6% Spandex Body: 88% Polyester 12% Spandex Lower leg: 92% Polyester 8% Spandex
€40,00
Women
Dri-FIT
Bra-top
XS-XL
1
Nike
€75,00
Women
Dri-FIT
Tights
XS-XL
1
Nike
€170,00
Female
Woven
Jacket
XS-XL
2
Adidas by Stella McCartney
100% Nylon
L
Asia
€65,00
Female
Climacool
T-Shirt
XS-L
1
Adidas by Stella McCartney
80% Polyester 20% Spandex
L
Asia
€85,00
Female
Dri-FIT
Tights
XS-XL
2
Adidas by Stella McCartney
80% Polyester 20% Spandex
L
Asia
€119,95
Women
Woven
Jacket
XS-XL
2
Asics
100% Nylon
L
Asia, Vietna m
€49,95
Women
Dri-FIT
Top
XS-XL
1
Asics
60% Cotton 30% Polyester 10% Spandex
L
Asia, Vietna m
Asics
Body: 88% Polyester 12% Spandex Lower leg: 92% Polyester 8% Spandex
L
Asia, Vietna m
€99,95
Women
Dri-FIT
Tights
XS-XL
1
Table 2, Running Freaks top competitor brands product selection
1.2.1 Top 3 competitor brands in leisure runners segments Retail Price
Men/ Women
Fabric
Silhouett e
Size Range
Color s
Brand
Content/ Brand name
L/ RF
COO
€44,95
Women
Woven
Jacket
S-XL
2
Only Play
100% Nylon
RF
Egyp t
€26,95
Women
Dri-FIT
Bra-top
XS-XL
1
Only Play
94% Polyester 6% Spandex
RF
Egyp t
4
92% cotton/8% lycra
RF
Egyp t
Bjorn Borg
100% Polyester
RF
Chin a
2
Only Play
95% cotton 5% Spandex
RF
Chin a
S-XL
2
Only Play
95% cotton 5% Spandex
RF
Chin a
Jacket
XS-XL
3
H&M
96% Cotton 4% Spandex
RF
Asia
Top
XS-XL
3
H&M
RF
Asia
RF
Asia
€22,95
Women
Dri-FIT
Tights
XS-XL
1
Only Play
€69,95
Women
Woven
Jacket
S-XXL
2
€34,95
Women
DryFIT
Bra-top
S-XXL
€59,95
Women
Dri-FIT
Tights
€19,95
Women
Woven
€14,95
Women
Dri-FIT
€19,95
Women
Dri-FIT
Pants
XS-XL
2
H&M
13% Spandex 87% Polyamide 55% Cotton 41% Polyester 4% Spandex
Table 3, Leisure Runner competitor brands product selection
The labels listed above also have lower segment garments, suitable for leisure runners. Those lines are made of cheaper materials with lower quality and in different (looser, more comfortable) styles. Resulting in cheaper and more casual products. For the contrast we have chosen to focus the lower range leisure runners. These will be going for the private labels rather than the high-end brands. H&M
Decathlon
C&A
Scapino
V&D
[CITATION Lad14 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Kle14 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATIO N Dam143 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Dam142 \l 1043 ]
[ CITATION Dam14 \l 1043 ]
H&M Sports
Kalenji
Private label
Private label
Vila
Domyos Quechua Inesis Table 4, Leisure Runner collection brands
5
1.2.2 Running collection overview RANGE PLAN CAPS RUNNING COLLECTION 1
2
3
4
Collectio n
Style numb er
Produ ct name
Size Range
Leisure running
Jacket 1 L
xs-xl
Leisure running
2 top L
xs-xl
Leisure running
pants 3 L
xs-xl
Running freak
jacket 4 RF
s-l
Running freak
5 top RF
s-l
shorts 6 FR
s-l
Running freak Average
5 Size qty
6
Colors black, grey, red, 5 pink. black, grey, red, pink, 5 blue. black, grey, 5 pink black, grey, red, 3 pink. black, grey, red, pink, 3 blue. black, grey, 3 pink
Total 6 RRP=Recommended Retail Price SKU=Stock Keeping Unit Forecast=Eerste inschatting van de hoeveelheid stuks Table 5 , Range plan CAPS RUNNING Collection
7
8
SKU
RRP
9 Retail margi n
10 Target Whole sale price
11
12
13
Margi n
Target FOB price
Forec ast
14 Forec asted turnov er
15 Forec asted margi n
16 Materi als suppli er
20
€ 39,95
50%
€ 19,98
59%
€ 8,19
10
€ 200
€ 118
China
25
€ 19,95
50%
€ 9,98
55%
€ 4,49
35
€ 349
€ 192
Pakist an
56% 57%
€ 6,59
25 70
€ 374
€ 210
China
15 0
€ 29,95
50% 50%
€ 14,98
12
€ 64,95
50%
€ 32,48
37%
€ 20,46
8
€ 260
€ 96
Indon esia
15
€ 39,95
50%
€ 19,98
30%
€ 13,98
12
€ 240
€ 72
Taiwa n
9
€ 44,95
10 30
€ 225
€ 79
Taiwa n
€ 1.648
€ 766
50% 50%
€ 22,48
35% 34%
€ 14,61
70.000
17 Garm ent suppli er
1.2.3 Price position new collection and visuals of the garments The prices of the nearest competitors are all between €26,95 and €79,95. Bottoms, tops and vests are all in this price range. We want to make quality sportswear and want to become one of their competitors. That is the reason that we are going to sell the collection in the same price range. We are an upcoming brand; therefore we cannot afford to make a collection that is higher in prices than other brands. Retail Mens/ Fabric Silho Size Brand Content/ L/R Coo price Wmns uette range Brand F Color name s €49,9 wmns Wove Jack XS Caps 100 % L Chin n et XL polyester a 5
€24,9
wmns
Wove n
Top
XS XL
Caps
95 % cotton / 5% elastin
L
Chin a
wmns
Wove n
Botto m
XS XL
Caps
93 % polyester / 7 % elastin
L
Chin a
5 €49,9 5 Table 6 , Price position and visual of the Running Freak new collection garments
Retail price
Mens/ Wmns
Fabric
Silho uette
Brand
Content/ Brand name
L/R F
Coo
Vest
Size range Color s S-L
€59,9
wmns
Woven
Caps
100 % polyester
RF
Chin a
wmns
Woven
Top
S-L
Caps
95 % cotton / 5% elastin
RF
Chin a
wmns
Woven
Botto m
S-L
Caps
93 % polyester / 7 % elastin
RF
Chin a
5
€24,9 5
€39,9 5
Table 7 , Price position and visual of the Leisure Runner new collection garments
Bigger pictures of the garments can be found in appendix I on page 27.
7
Chapter 2: Consumer segments – Thinking with the end in mind 2.1 Profile The running participants can be categorized into two groups; leisure fun runners, and fanatic running freaks. 2.1.1 Leisure runner profile Age 20 – 30 Home Living on their own, Living situation together with partner, living with partner and small children Level of Middle income Job area Student, young professional Interests Trends (fashion, music, communication), friends and family, shopping, reading magazines, traveling, health, apps, ecological/ethical issues Workout Social settings; group lessons like yoga, Pilates, Zumba, Sh’Bam. Leisure running with friends when the weather is nice (dry, not too hot, not too cold) Music Charts, top 40 Energetic; House, Pop, Drum and Bass, Indie Spotify, phone, iPod Eating She enjoys good food; she likes habits going out for dinner but usually cooks herself, mostly healthy but she also loves her comfort food. Buying She goes shopping very often behavior (multiple times a week) but tries to spend little money on individual pieces. You will find her in shops like H&M, ZARA and Vero Moda Communi Social Media (Facebook, Twitter, cation Pinterest, Instagram, FlickR, Spotify, Skype) Smartphones Table 8 , Leisure Runner profile
A leisure runner is a runner is a woman in her 20s who runs a couple of times a week to stay fit, to reenergize or just to get out into nature. She always runs with music and sometimes together with friends. She is an energetic and enthusiastic woman who enjoys her daytime activities, whether that is classes and studying or starting her carrier. She is passionate about just about anything; hot, trendy topics as well as serious ecological and ethical issues. She casually works out, mostly together with friends. This could be in fitness establishments following group lessons such as yoga or Pilates, or upbeat dance group lessons such as Zumba or Sh’Bam. Or she goes out running together with friends. But only when the weather conditions are nice, this means dry, not too hot and not too cold. She frequently listens to music, mostly through Spotify; collecting music lists such as ‘Re-Energize’, ‘Mood Boasters’, ‘Psyched!’, but also more gentle ones like ‘Happy to be home’, ‘Cozy Comfy’ and ‘Carefree’. She likes to be healthy and ecological, through sports, through food, through transportation choices. A smartphone is at her fingertips, always in touch with friends. Friends who she will meet at popular cafes, restaurants and clubs. She is very active on social media, sharing her story with the world.
Figure , Leisure runner
2.1.2 Running freak profile Age 25 – 35 A running freak is an experienced runner of 25 to 35 years old. She runs longer distances and more often, this could be up to 25 Home Settled down with kilometers a day no matter the weather. situation a family or settled She takes part in a of long distance runs, and always has one on her own planned or one in mind an they will run with running schedules to be Level of Middle to high well prepared. income Just like in running, she thrives in life as well. These women are Job area High positions in
8
Interests Workout Music Eating habits
Buying behavior Communi cation
corporations, very career oriented Sports, news, family and friends, health, Running and running supporting fitness sessions Radio Rock, Classic Rock, House, Pop Very aware of food intake, high in fibers and minerals, low in fat and sugars Protein shakes, protein bars, sport drink Quality is of high importance, she is willing to pay for high-end brands Face to face, phone conversations, email, mobile phone
career-oriented businesswomen who you will find in high positions with matching big paychecks. Sports and news are of interest to these women, as well as health and of course their family. She exercises by running, and supports her running with extra fitness sessions especially focused on improving her running results. Weather conditions have no impact on whether or not she goes out running. Snow, rain, heat, storm, nothing will make her stray from her schedule. The music she listens to is Classic Rock style played through a radio. She is an overall healthy eater and aware of what she puts in her body. Her diet is high in fibers and minerals and low in fat and sugars Protein bars, protein shakes and sport drinks are regularly consumed by her. Because of her high income she is able to afford quality and she likes to shop in high-end stores. She prefers personal social communication through phone calls, face to face, and long distance or if it needs to be written; emails. Running freaks will always push the boundaries and go above and beyond.
Figure , Running freak
Table 9 , Running Freak Profile
2.2 Visual profile translations in mood boards Here you find two small portrayals of the mood boards, the real size mood board can be found in appendix II on page 28
2.3 First visual design concept
Figure 4 , Small Moodboard Running Freak Figure 1 ,Small moodboard Leisure Runner
9
2.3.1 Technical drawings leisure runner Leisure runner: The leisure runners are doing this sport to improve their fitness, improve their health or just for fun. An employee of the running shop Navis Sport in Aalten told us: ‘The leisure runners want comfortable clothing’. Corine Dorrestein is a leisure runner herself and observed on different occasions (12-05-2014, 14-05-2014, 15-05-2014 and 18-05-2014) what other leisure runners wear while running. She came to the conclusion that these runners wear mostly comfortable clothing with playful colors, male runners wear looser pants while female runners often choose a tight fit. We have chosen for a hoodie, a singlet and a pair of pants for the leisure runner. We have made five color schemes for the tank tops with a main color and a contrast color. Three color schemes for the pants where two of them are basic colors and one has got a bright color. And for the hoody we have also chosen three color scheme. Two of them are in basic colors and one has got a flower print. We have based this collection on the upcoming color trends for spring 2014.[ CITATION Fas13 \l 1033 ] The visual design concepts can be found in appendix III on page 33 2.3.1 Technical drawings running freak Running freak: The running freaks want to have tight and well fitted, high quality, high performance clothing. ‘The fanatic runners will run regardless of weather conditions’, commented the employee of Nevis Sport. Which is why these garments need to have special qualities. It needs to keep the rain and wind out yet it needs to be breathable, it needs to be able to transport the sweat from the body and it needs to keep the body warm. For the running freak we have chosen for a tight jacket that comes in a basic and in a brighter color. In the back of this jacket as well as under the armpits we have added mesh. The top comes in one basic color and two bright colors. And the shorts come in 4 color schemes, with a basic main color and bright contrasting colors. These color choices are also based on the upcoming color trends for spring 2014[ CITATION Fas13 \l 1033 ] yet less color schemes because the running freak does not care about looking fashionable when running and therefore does not need a lot of color choices. The visual design concepts can be found in appendix IV on page 36 Line plan leisure runner The line plan for the leisure runner can be found in appendix V on page39 Line plan running freak The line plan for the running freak can be found in appendix VI on page 40 Spring 2015 color story The color story for our lines for 2015 can be found in appendix VII on page 41
2.4 Physical prototype choice The garment that we will be making a physical prototype of is the top of the leisure runner
10
Chapter 3: Fabric selection – Quality comes first! 3.1 Functional/performance fabric requirements You will see the answer at 3d.
3.2 Sustainable raw material usage The world population grows every day. Hereby the demand for textiles increases. This means that the environment could be damaged even more by textile production. To prevent this, a lot of companies decided to produce sustainably. But what is sustainability? When fabrics are produced sustainably, they cause little or no damage to the environment. These fabrics are produced with as few chemical products as possible. The term sustainability is defined with reference to the 3 P’s: People, Profit and Planet. These three P’s are the things that are very important to watch during the process. Recycling of fabrics is a way of sustainability. Normally, people throw their old clothes away but instead they could recycle it. They cause less damage while producing recycled fabrics than while producing new fabrics. But there are reasons not to produce sustainably. Sustainable clothes are more expensive than other clothing and the production is extra time-consuming. The ‘running freaks’ segment is willing to invest in running clothing. It is okay for the clothing to be more expensive than regular clothing if this means the clothing will last longer. Quality is more important than price. Therefore this segment is ideal for sustainably produced products. An overview of the various sustainable raw materials for the clothing textiles market: Mat Benefits Disadvantages Level of erial sustainability Bam The fabrics are very soft and comfortable, flexible, Many forests are being Silver boo cool and they do not wrinkle. chopped down. The production is not harmful to the environment. Not for very big Fewer allergic reactions. capacities Bamboo grows very fast. Line Grows in many places. Good quality and very strong. Linen needs a lot of Gold Linen does not harm the environment. processing, thereby increases the price Jute Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibers and also, Jute is a rough fiber and Silver after cotton, the most commonly used. The jute plant not suitable for clothing that is obtained mainly occurs in warm, moist areas such as Bangladesh, China and India. Hem The plants are resistant to salt, weeds, insects, frost The hemp plant Bronze p and sunlight. produces THC. That is a No insecticides used. dangerous and addictive Grown without using chemical fertilizer and without substance. exhausting the soil. Pants made out of Hemp lasts 5 times longer than cotton pants Coc Strong stiff material. Coconut fibers are used in mats, Costs a lot of coconut Bronze onut brushes, mattresses, bags and ropes. trees. Trees are cut fiber down and it takes much s time to make a usable fiber of it. Not suitable for clothing Table 10 , Various sustainable raw materials for the clothing textiles market overview
11
3.3 Final fabric selection For our final fabric selection we chose fir the following fabrics: For the leisure runner we chose for mainly cotton because it feels nice to the skin and it is perfect for the leisure runner because the leisure runner does not have high technical demands. . For the running freak we chose the best materials we could for our price range. Our final fabric selection: Leisure runner Jack: 100% cotton Top: 95 % cotton and 5% spandex Bottom: 95% cotton and 5% spandex Running freak: Jack: 100% polyester Top: 83# polyester and 17% spandex Bottom: 84% polyester and 16% spandex
3.4 Needed fabric quality tests It’s very important for a sports brand to sell products that reach a certain quality standard. Good quality is also very important to Caps. Both segments stand for a good product that suits the running market well. The fabrics used to produce these products need to meet more requirements than normal clothes. Demands are: good fit, lightweight and crease resistant. These are the most important tests that have to be done. This happens by using different machines and techniques. Leisure runners Sweat authenticity This test is important because sweat can cause a lot of damage to fabrics or colors of the fabrics. This technique shows what kind of influence human sweat has on dyed fabrics. This is based on the norm: ISO 150 E04. In this test a piece of fabric soaked in 2 different chemical solutions that contain human sweat, also know as histidine. There are two tests to perform: one with an alkaline sweat solution and one with an acid sweat solution. For four hours the piece of fabric will be put under pressure between two plates Perspex under thirty-six degrees. After that, the fabric will be dried and the change in color will show. Now you can see and judge the way the color has been bleeding off. Color authencity from fabric materials that abrade towards each other During running or playing sports the fabric of the clothing will abrade a lot under the arms and on the inside of the thigh. Caps does not want this places to wear off faster than the rest of the product, or to fade because of the abrading. To avoid this there is a test for which there will be a crock meter used. With this test both warp and weft will be tested. The piece of fabric will be rubbed with a bleached cotton fabric; this will be performed in wet and dry state. The change in color can be judged by using cards with nuances of grey. Dimension stability Under influence of several circumstances materials can crimp or stretch. Fabrics that are washed for example can crimp, but fabrics can also crimp because of rain. This can be tested in a few different ways. The test will be done with a washing machine. The wash cycle has to be adjusted to the norm: ISO 6330. After washing the piece of fabric will be folded and dried. Running freak Moisture-absorbent ability One of the most important things about sport fabrics is the moisture-absorbent ability. During sweating the fabric needs to be able to moisture the sweat so it will not stick to the body. Especially shirts and tops need to have a good moisture-absorbent ability because the places where you sweat a lot are in the upper body part. Moisture absorbent ability is being measured
12
with the norm DEN 53923. To test this the dry fabric needs to be weighted, after that the fabric is immersed in water for 60 seconds. Now the fabric is suspended. After letting the fabric leak for 2 minutes the fabric is weighted again. The outcome of these tests will be put in a formula, the result will be a percentage. This percentage shows how good (or bad) the moisture-absorbent ability is. Crease resilience It’s important for sports fabrics to be stretchy and comfortable to move in without creasing. The fabrics need to be resistant to water, warmth and lots of movement. We do not want the fabric to crease after half an hour of running. The crease resilience can be tested by a test. A piece of fabric is being forced to crease with a cylinder method. After 24 hours the piece of fabric is taken out and a picture is being made. After another 24 hours of rest the piece of fabric will be compared with the picture. The crease resilience will be judged on a scale from 1 to 8. 1 means very creased and 8 means not at all or little creased. Lightweight Sportswear have to be lightweight. During sporting it is unpleasant to carry around extra weight because of your clothes. Lightweight fabrics are mostly woven or knitted; the yarns used for this are very thin. To weigh the fabric it is important to use the raw material because fabric can crimp or stretch. After having done several measurements and formulas you can calculate the weight per m2.
3.5 Fabric testing template Testing template polyester See appendix VIII on page42 Testing template cotton See appendix VIII on page 44
13
Chapter 4: Prototyping – Making it work! 4.1 Technical drawing
Technical drawing can be found in appendix IX on page 46.
4.2 Chosen block pattern We have chosen for the pattern block with -/- 10%. The fabric we use does not contain stretch because it is a 100% cotton fabric. Because of this reason we have made the decision to work with this block, which has got a body fitted model. We want to make a model closely fitted to the body and when using a fabric without stretch, this is the best option for us.
4.3 Model fashioning in scale 1:4 Model fashioning in scale 1:4 can be found in appendix X on page 47.
4.4 working patterns in scale 1:4 Working drawing in scale 1:4 can be found in appendix XI on page 48.
4.5 model fashioning in real size (size 38) Model fashioning in real size (size 38) can not be found in this paper, they will be presenten with the presentation.
4.6 working patterns in real size See working patterns in real size can not be found in this paper, they will be presenten with the presentation.
4.7 Working pattern legend See Working patterns legend in appendix XII on page 49.
4.8 Colored and specified technical drawing Colored and specified technical drawings can be found in appendix XIII on page 50.
4.9 Technical Model Specification form The technical model specification form can be found in appendix XIV on page 51.
4.10 Sewing preparations For the singlet we had to use two colors. One main color and a contrast color. For the main color we had to use 108 cm fabric and for the contrast bias 2,2 cm. We calculated the necessary fabric inlay and came out on a total of 3,23 euro. For the main color it was 3,01 and the contrast bias 0,22 euro. .
14
Chapter 5: Production location – Preferred supplier 5.1 Materials suppliers locations RANGE PLAN CAPS RUNNING COLLECTION MATERIALS SUPPLIERS Collection Style number Product name Materials supplier Leisure running 1 jacket L China Leisure running 2 top L China Leisure running 3 pants L China Running freak Running freak Running freak Average Total
4 jacket RF 5 top RF 6 shorts FR
Thailand Thailand Thailand
6
Table 11 , Range plan CAPS RUNNING collection materials suppliers
5.2 Garment production region Far east includes: North Asia: China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Korea and Japan South Asia: Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. Eastern Europe includes: Former Soviet countries, Ukraine, Lithuania, Latvia, Poland, Romania and Bulgaria. Europe includes: Portugal, Italy, France, Spain and Greece North Africa includes: Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt and Israel
Figure 2 , Garment production regions
Far East
Eastern Europe
Europe
Turkey
North Africa
Distance Location risk Availability raw materials Logistic facilities Corruption level Lead times Capacity International orientation Table 12 , Garment production regions evaluation
Based on this research, we can conclude that three of the five regions are the most suitable: Turkey, Far East and Europe. We can also conclude that: Turkey scored best on availability of raw materials, logistic facilities, lead times, capacity and international orientation.
15
-
The Far East is too far away but scored positive on availability of raw materials, logistic facilities, capacity and international orientation. Those are meaningful for Caps.
If we balance these conclusions, we come up with the regions: Far East and Turkey. The downsides of these two is that they are relatively far away. We find the positive things about them very important (especially that they are cheaper than for example, Europe) so that is why we do not mind that they are further away than other options. We will have to pay more for the transportation but because they are cheaper in production, the total will not be more expensive than producing closer by. Because they are far away we will make very clear agreements with them and we will check up on them every three months. Before we decide to work with them we will make sure the factory is in good condition and we will do thorough research on them.
5.3 Garment supplier selection Criteria
Weight (1-3)
Supplier A China
Weight X Score
Weight x Score
Supplier C Taiwan
Weight x Score
Supplier D Turkey
Weight x Score
6 9 4
Supplier B Thailan d 3 3 4
Location Quality level Experience w/performance materials Experience w/sustainable fabrics Price level Exporting quotas, duties Communication connection Connection with international materials suppliers
2 3 2
3 3 2
6 9 8
3 5 4
6 15 8
5 1 4
10 3 8
1
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
3 2
2 1
6 2
4 4
12 8
3 3
9 6
4 4
12 8
2
5
10
3
6
5
10
3
6
2
5
10
2
4
3
6
4
8
Total:
51
57
64
59
Table 13 , Vendor rating garment supplier selection
A lot of things are important but we cannot be too demanding towards our suppliers because we want cheap clothes. The most important things for us are the location, the price and the quality level of the clothes. We cannot choose China as supplier because China only produces woven garments; this is based on the table that was given in the project manual. (You can find the table in appendix XV on page 52) Based on the outcome of this table Taiwan is the best choice for us. We use the same table for the leisure runner and the running freak because we want a good price/quality ratio. For the leisure runner we are in the lower market and we ask prices between €24,95 and €59,95 and for the running freak we asking between €24,95 and €49,95. The quality and the price for the running freak is higher than for the leisure runner. The same table gives us a good overview for the combination of price and quality for the different market segments.
Criteria Location Quality level
Reason The location is very important because the nearer, the less leap time you need and the cheaper the logistics will be. We want to be a good brand. And we want to give to people products with a good quality price ratio. So the quality does not have to be excellent but it has to be good enough. For the leisure runner the quality does not need to be as high as for the
16
Experience w/performance materials Experience w/sustainable fabrics Price level Exporting quotas, duties Communication connection
Connection with international materials suppliers
running freak but we do not want to be like for example Bristol. So for the leisure runner and for the running freak we want the highest quality possible for the price we are asking. We want to be a brand with a good price-quality ratio. The workers have to have experience with the materials that we are using because if they do not, mistakes will be made and that is lost of fabric and a loss of time for us which will then cost us more. The workers have to have experience with the sustainable fabrics that we are using because if they do not, mistakes will be made and that is lost of fabric and a loss of time for us which will then cost us more. The price level is very important because we sell our product in a market segment with a lot of competition and we want to be able to sell our product and we want consumers want to buy our product. The duties from some countries are higher then from other countries for example Taiwan and Turkey, Turkey will be cheaper because it is in the EU. So this is important for us because it has influence on the price. Communication is maybe the most important thing when you produce somewhere else. We have to make good agreements with the place we are going to produce. During the process we have to check the workers, so good communication is very important. Our garment supplier will have to work with our material supplier so if the connection between the two is good it is better for us because we do not have to spend time on that.
Table 14 , Elaboration chosen vendor-rating criteria
Turkey is not selected because of the low quality level. Below you can see an overview of Thailand and Taiwan. Thailand: - Cheaper then Taiwan in price level. - Lower export duties then Taiwan. Taiwan: - High quality level - Good communication Based on our research we decide to work with Thailand because we want quality. We want to be a brand with a good price-quality ratio. Although Taiwan has a higher quality level we decided to work with Thailand. The difference between the two regarding the quality level and the communication is not a lot. We find it more important that Thailand is cheaper in price level and export duties because therefore we can sell the clothes for a lower price and achieve a higher turnover.
17
Chapter 6:Branding – Enhance your story 6.1 Materials brand names Brand names
Raw materials
Brand owner
From the classic air-jet textured polyamide fabrics to today's ultra-light weight polyamide and high tenacity polyester fabrics Made from plastic water bottles
Invista
Fabric constr uction Woven
Invista
Knitted
Polyetrafluorethylene
Gore-Tex
Woven
Polyuethane
E.I. Du Pont De Nemours & CO NatureWork s LLC's
knitted
Elasticity
Knitted/ woven
Glass beads
3M
A synthetic fiber made from beech wood. Natural synthetic fiber. Wool
Lenzing AG
Retroreflectiv e trim Knits/w oven
Resistant to UV light Low flammability Hydrophilic Reflection by night gives safety
AWI
Knitted/ woven
Natural and synthetic fibers
Optimer Performanc e Fibres
woven
Polyamide
invista
Knitted/ woven
Soft Lightweight Strong
polyester
Polartec
woven
Hard face water repellent Odour resistant Light
Cellulose (Corn)
Consumer benefit(s) Thermal protection Comfort Moisture management Great moisture management; dries quickly Breathable Regulates temperature of body Breathable Light Water- and windproof
Soft Natural More comfortable Allowing athletes and sports people to achieve peak performance. Dries quickly Soft and natural to the touch Virtually neutralizes odor
18
-Cupro-Rayons -Tencel -Modal -Tri-Acetate -Acetate -Cottons -Rayons -Linens -Organic/Recycle -Polyesters -Wool
Epic textiles internationa l
Woven/ knitted
Windproof Rainproof Breathable
Table 15 , Materials brand names
6.2 Top 5 materials brand names used by various running brands
A list of the top 5 material brand names that are being used by various running brands: Brand names Materials Brands Dri-FIT:
(88% Recycled Polyester/12% Spandex), a supportive, stretch fabric with moisture-wicking properties.
CLIMACOOL:
(100% Polyester), a lightweight, moisture-transfer fabric that provides mobility and dryness as you run.
Airplex II:
(100% polyester with DWR) wind and water resistance for a comfortable run.
Hydrology:
(100% Polyester Mesh), a breathable, moisture-wicking fabric that aids in temperature regulation as you run.
Epiphany Core: Body (88% Moisture-Transfer Polyester/12% Spandex), a moisture-wicking stretch fabric that provides support and keeps you dry as you run . Table 16 , Top 5 materials brand names used by various running brands
6.3 Our materials brand names selection Running freaks For the running freak segment we choose to use Cool Max. This because it is a very well known brand and the quality meets the price range. The fabrics are breathable, regulate temperature of the body and have a great moisture management, which also dries quickly. We will use the Cool Max for the jacket because it will give the jacket a higher quality. We choose for Cool Max because this will fit in our price-range and it will tickle consumers to buy our product because people are more likely to spent money on a product if they are familiar with the used material brand. Leisure runners For the leisure runners segment we choose to use Spandex for the bottom and top. We will use Spandex because it will fit in our price-range. This fabric feels very nice to the skin. Within our segment we have to be different from the other companies so our price/quality ratio will be good for a lower price.
6.4 Logo for Caps running 6.4.1 The process This logo started off with a vision. The vision of the logo name CAPS at the center of attention, the division RUNNING close to it but a lot smaller. Then we want a visual part, preferably a contour to keep it simple and recognizable.
19
This is a successful way of composing a logo, according to Miss Grevinga. The matter of logos was discussed in her Branding lectures of the 19th of may 2014. Then came the foot. We are a running female apparel brand, but a piece of female sports apparel is not iconic for the industry. We think that the general public does not relate a contour of a certain sports garment with the whole running apparel industry. And even if they did, we would have the issue of which garment, and how to keep our image of revolving around that particular garment piece. We did not want to focus on the female aspect of our brand either because we do not want to commit ourselves to just the female apparel market. We want to keep the possibility of branching out to men’s sports apparel open. At a certain part during brainstorming the thought of feet came up, because you run with your feet. But running shoes were crossed off rather quickly because they are hard to design without copying an already existing brand and that would sent out the message that we sell shoes. Then came the idea of a foot, and how the gap would line up perfectly with the C of CAPS. Then we experimented with the different ways of realizing this idea. Different fonts, partially different colors or fully different colors, We placed the different ways of the logo in which we saw potential next to one another, as you can see in appendix XVI on page 53. 6.4.2 Final choice Logo Logo
Light clothing
Dark clothing
Table 17 , Final choices logo CAPS RUNNING
6.4.3 Text versus symbol We decided to combine text with symbol for the logo. We choose for this combination so that we could start off with our brand name and a visual of what market we will be operating on. We think this is a wise choice for a brand entering a new business field. Then in the long run we have the possibility of letting our logo grow to just the symbol. Just like Nike did with their ‘swoosh’.[CITATION Nik \l 1043 ] The logo has the text CAPS RUNNING. We did not add any other words or slogans to keep the focus on the brand CAPS and the division RUNNING. We thought about adding a word to make it CAPS RUNNING GEAR or CAPS RUNNERS WEAR to emphasize that we are an apparel brand. But this is not necessary as we are an already established clothing brand. When we branch out to running, it would be logical that we mean running clothing instead of a whole new and different market segment and make two major switches. 1; changing from casualwear to sportswear and 2; switching from the clothing to shoes. Therefore we chose to stick to ‘CAPS RUNNING’. As a symbol we propose a footprint. Running is associated with being outdoors and being sporty and adventurous. Footprints are also accosted with those things. People may think we are a running shoes brand but we will prevent this by using the right kinds of advertisement. In our ads we will use the logo on garments and not the logo just by itself. Also as mentioned before we are a successful clothing brand already, therefore it is logical that we stay in the clothing market. The symbol and the text merge with one another through the C of CAPS, it fits perfectly in the inside of the footprint and together form one logo. 6.4.4 Logo color We have chosen for a combination of black and a fresh light turquoise blue. We wanted to incorporate color in the logo to create some playfulness but still keep it professional. That is why
20
we choose for the letters to be black and the foot to be in a one color; light turquoise. Turquoise blue is a timeless color that is commonly associated with the sky and therefor outside settings. Which is exactly what we want people to think of when they see our logo, fresh clear blue skies in which it is ideal to go for a run. The Logo Company has done research about the psychology of color in logo design[ CITATION Sim131 \l 1043 ]. They found that the key emotion of the color blue is trust, dependable and strength. That is exactly the image that we want to send out into the world. Then on the garments it will be in either black letters with a grey foot on light colored garments, or white letters with a grey foot on dark garments. We have chosen for grey-scale instead of color because this would make it more recognizable and applicable on garments in all colors. If we were to use color there is a big chance that the foot would not sand out but blend in with the color of the garment. Also it is also cheaper and more environment friendly (less chemicals needed for black, grey and white than for the colors) 6.4.5 Logo size and placement The size of the logo on the Running Freak clothes will be 3 x 5 cm. This is subtle small, yet readable and recognizable. It will be placed on the front, low on the garment on the left side. On top, jacket and bottoms. Then for the Leisure Running clothing the size is not set, we want to be able to play with the logo size for the leisure runner because this segment is more focused on what the garment looks like rather than the functions of the garment. The same goes for the placement on the garment. For our prototype, the leisure top it will also be placed on the front, low on the garment on the left side. In any other usage of the logo it will be the size appropriate for the application.
3x5 cm
4 x 6,67 cm
For example, our stationary it will be a little bit bigger; 4 x 6,67 cm. And in advertisement posters it will be a lot larger, 24 x 40 cm for Table 18 , Logo sizes example on a normal sized bus stop poster of 118,9 x 175 cm[ CITATION Bus14 \l 1043 ]. 6.4.6 Logo readability CAPS will be in bold capitals and RUNNING in capitals as well but not bold and smaller. This was done to improve the readability of the logo text and to put more focus on CAPS and a little less on RUNNING. CAPS is bold and a darker color than the footprint to make sure that the C does not get lost in the footprint and to not compromise the readability of CAPS. When printed on apparel it will be done so in rectangular shapes, so not just the logo but also a see through filling to make it a square. We choose for this because then the little toes of the foot will be visual and at a lower to minimal risk of falling of or not being able to be printed. Also the efficiency will not be too much worse because of this, we will be printing on rectangular sheets anyway plus the logo itself is rather rectangular, 6.4.7 Logo recognisability This logo is very clean, we decided not to dress it up too much but rather stick to ‘less is more’ with just the two words and a foot. This is the brand we want to position ourselves on the market with. Then later on when we have grown, when we are more acknowledged and when we have settled in the market, we can evolve to using only the footprint. The footprint will then be recognizable enough to carry the brand running segment as a whole.
21
Chapter 7 Project team reflection 7.1 Basic steps evaluation Corine Dorrestein Merchandiser – Corine Dorrestein 1 Gaining practica l experie nce 2 Looking back and overse eing 3 Determi ne strateg y 4 Gaining practica l experie nce 5 Analyz e
6 Determi ne new strateg y
Working together started of really well. We all had our roles and I had mine as merchandiser, I liked that I was able to work on my own on my own assignments. But when I saw other group members do things their way and I did not fully agree I started to take over rolls. For example Lobke was working on the mood boards, but I felt that I understood the feedback and the vision better so I offered to take over so that she could focus on her other tasks. I started to take on too much work of others, and the stress became too much for me. We (and especially me) need to communicate more about what we are working on and how it is going. Also one of our 3 assignments was handed in late. Even though it was an assignment assigned to one of us, it is not only her fault; we as a group should have been more involved in each other’s work. I needed to communicate more. And speak up when something is not going smoothly so that we all know where it is at and we can help each other. And I need to trust that the others know what they are doing and are capable of doing it right. Also I need to try and let go of that perfectionism. I spent too much time on little itty-bitty things, time that could be better spent. Collaboration improved after handing in the first half of the project. We communicated more. I as a merchandiser had a little role in the second half of the project. For me it was just creating a logo and explaining the made choices. And of course help the others where needed. After the show and check I processed the remarks into the paper and now I am content with my work. Collaboration improved, but I still need to get a better hand on that perfectionism. I need to stick to my assignments and not want to take all of them over and trust the others to do their part. I did nag a bit about how the work was going and asking if they had thought about certain things, but that is an improvement for me because before I probably would have taken over that particular part. In the future I need to work closer to the assignments and not get caught up in my work and end up emphasizing on the wrong parts. I also need to think through about what I write down and substantiate by using good sources. Then I need to keep communicating, do my assignments thoroughly and trust that others will do theirs thoroughly too.
7.2 Basic steps evaluation Jorinda Hendriksen Together with three other students we made the project ‘Global sourcing’ into a successful plan. Everyone had his own role in the project. I was the Business unit director and the product developer. As business director I was held accountable for the final results which includes that I was responsible for organizing the whole project and stick to the planning. I gave everyone a task and a deadline. During the process I found out that stick to the planning a challenge was for me. At the first deadline everyone made it except me. So I learned from that to begin earlier with my tasks and after that it did not happened again. My other role was being product developer, which means that I am responsible for supporting the designer in translating the 2D design sketches into a 3D prototype garment. I made sure that the supplier could meet the technical requirements of the garment. It was my job to write down all the product specifications in a clear readable format to assure consistency in production. During the process I need to ask help from the material manager. Together with her we made the tasks of my role completed. During the project we needed to think and to act like a professional. For all the decisions we made we have to come up with very good reasons. Because every decision we made influences the whole project so we have to think twice before we proceeded. During the process I have to work closely with the material manager and I learned a lot of the quality of different materials
22
and this is important for my education and after I am graduating. I learned that you always have to communicate with all the other members of the group to coordinate the results. I think this is a really good practice for me, because in a real company you also have to work this way. For the next project I would try to make and finish the assignments earlier so we have time to check it before we go to the show and check appointments.
7.3 Basic steps evaluation Lobke Overbeeke I enjoyed my job as a designer and sourcing/costing for Caps. Being creative appeal to me at all therefore it was a pleasure to make an idea into a line concept. It was engrossing to create two different line concepts for each another segment. Although It was difficult to make clear what the wishes where for both consumers because it had to be a collection who can defeat the competitors. It was not easy to balance all the aspects. With some help and a lot of research I am satisfied with the end results. The whole project was a lot work, so it happened that other people had to take over some small parts. Making the whole collection and the prototype was a lot work, but I loved to do it. Sometimes it was a bit difficult to get all the events because I was the only one in the ETC1vF class. Therefore it is a lesson to get better communication skills and being more active as a group player.
7.4 Basic steps evaluation Paula Smith We made a project together, me and 3 other students. What went well was working together and separating the tasks. I think I was very professional during the project. We needed to do a lot of research to make a good project. We needed to think like professional people. During the project I wanted to do a lot of research so we could come up with good things. What I wanted to do was to act like professionals. That was very difficult about the project because we had to come up with good reasons for the decisions we made. Besides that, every decision you make influences the whole project so you really need to consider things. There is a lot you can find on the internet but of course we are not professional people so that was very difficult. What happened is that we really tried to be professional but because we are not there is always something we could do better. I found it very nice to pay more attention to the quality of different materials. During this education I already learned much about characteristics of different materials but for this project I really had to go deeper into detail. In my opinion it was a challenge to keep everything together. You could not just work for your own and do your own tasks. You always had to communicate with all the other members of the group to coordinate the results. But I consider this a really good practice for us, because in a real company you always have to work this way. What I good do better the next time is take a second look at things before showing them to the teachers at the show and checks.
23
Results and conclusions We, as a buying team, have made a proposal for a running collection. We developed and sourced a new product assortment for running clothing for the textile company Caps. Our prices will be a little lower than those of our concurrent. We have split the market into two segments, the leisure and the running freak and made profiles of the two segments. By that, we chose casual trend following materials for the leisure runner and high performance materials for the running freak. The running collection must be an profitable one with the cool, trend following designs for the leisure runner and the performance designs for our running freak. The brand names Cool Max and Gore- Tex must attract our running freak. There is a good garment supplier producing in Thailand, which is able to produce all of our clothes. We have our material supplier for the leisure runner in China and for the running freak in Thailand. The costs of the producing are really acceptable. The logo is an attractive logo for the consumers, new and fresh. We well considered every choice we have made in the advantage of our two segments. This is probably going to work in our benefit and will make the product assortment of Caps work.
24
Literature and references Bibliography Addict, F. (2013, 12 30). Top 10 Fashion Trends and Spring 2014 Color Trends. Retrieved from Fashion Diva Design: http://www.fashiondivadesign.com/top-10-fashion-trends-andspring-2014-color-trends/ Brands. (2014, 05). Retrieved from Lopers Company: http://www.loperscompany.nl/brands Bushokje posters drukken. (2014, 06). Retrieved from 24-posters: https://www.24posters.nl/bushokje-posters-drukken CBR. (2007). Grote verschillen in sportbeoefening tussen mannen en vrouwen. Retrieved from CBS: http://www.cbs.nl/nl-NL/menu/themas/dossiers/vrouwen-enmannen/publicaties/artikelen/archief/2010/2010-3088-wm.htm Cotton fabrics for professionals clothing. (2014, 05 26). Retrieved from tdv-industries: http://www.tdv-industries.fr/en/fabrics/catalog/cotton-fabrics-for-professionalclothing/9-houndstooth---250-g-m.html Dames kleding sportkleding. (2014, 05). Retrieved from Scapino: http://www.scapino.nl/dames/kleding/sportkleding Dames sport jogging-fitness. (2014, 05). (C&A) Retrieved from C and A: http://www.c-anda.com/nl/nl/shop/dames/sport/jogging-fitness Dames sport-en-outdoor. (2014, 05). (V&D) Retrieved from V&D: http://www.vd.nl/dames/sport-en-outdoor.html Dameskleding hardlopen. (2014, 05). (Sport2000) Retrieved from Sport2000: http://www.sport2000.nl/dames/filters.html?sport=hardlopen EconWorld. (2006). Eco Begrippen. Retrieved from http://home.wanadoo.nl/econworld/Hoofdpagina%27s/EcoBegrippen/t.htm EcoVerde Organic Cotton. (2014, 05 26). Retrieved from Coats Industrial: http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/products-applications/industrial-threads/ecoverdeorganic-cotton gfk. (2013). WENSEN EN BEHOEFTEN HUIDIGE EN POTENTIĂ‹LE HARDLOPERS. NOC*NSF. Hardloopkleding dames. (2014, 05). (Runners World) Retrieved from RunnersWorld: http://shop.runnersworld.nl/collectie/hardloopkleding-dames/alle.html Hardloopkleding dames. (2014, 05). (All4Running) Retrieved from All4Running: http://all4running.nl/hardloopkleding/dames.html History heritage. (2014, 05 27). Retrieved from NIKE, Inc.: http://nikeinc.com/pages/history-heritage Huizinga, S., & Nijendaal, J. v. (2012). L. TEN CATE BV LTC60. Promarcom. John Smal, H. V. (2012). Marketing Kernstof. Groningen/Houten, The Netherlands: Noordhoff Uitgevers bv. Kalk, M. (2012). Begrippenlijst nationaal inkomen en werkgelegenheid. Retrieved from http://mkalk.home.xs4all.nl/begrip03.htm Kleding. (2014, 05). (Decathlon) Retrieved from Decathlon: http://www.decathlon.nl/C416162-kleding Koster, G. (2014, 07 19). Health. Retrieved from ELLE: http://www.elle.nl/health/behandelingen-producten/Tip-UrbanRunners Ladies Sportkleding Hardlopen. (2014, 05). (H&M) Retrieved from HM: http://www.hm.com/nl/subdepartment/LADIES?Nr=4294965390#Nr=4294877233 McArdle, S. (2013, 01 13). Psychology Of Color In Logo. Retrieved from The logo C: http://thelogocompany.net/blog/infographics/psychology-color-logo-design/ 25
Mechanical Testing ISO/IEC 17025 Application Document Annes J: Textiles and wool. (2013, 07). Retrieved from NATA: http://www.nata.com.au/nata/phocadownload/publications/Accreditation_criteria/ISOIEC-17025/Mechanical/Mechanical-Testing-Annex-J-Textiles-and-Wool.pdf Mega Jobs. (n.d.). MegaJobs.nl. Retrieved from Megajobs.nl: http://www.megajobs.nl/vac/search/detail.lasso?ID=10668210 Nike and platinumselling artist Ellie Goulding inspire and motivate runners. (2013, 04 15). Retrieved from Nike: http://nikeinc.com/news/nike-and-platinum-selling-artist-elliegoulding-inspire-and-motivate-runners Nike She Runs. (2014, 05 03). (Nike) Retrieved from Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/nikesheruns Partner in Marketing. (n.d.). PartnerinMarketing.nl. Retrieved from PartnerinMarketing.nl: http://www.partnerinmarketing.nl/werkzaamheden Porter, M. E. (1985). Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance. The Free Press, a Devision of Macmillan. Inc. Run2Day Hardloopkleding Dames. (2014, 05 19). (Run2Day) Retrieved from Run2Day: http://www.run2day.nl/c19-1-description/hardloopkleding-dames S. Gordon, Y. L. (2006). Cotton: Science and Technology. Woodhead Publishing. Sport Clothing and Accessories Industry: Market Research Reports, Statistics and Analysis. (n.d.). (Report Linker) Retrieved from Report Linker: http://www.reportlinker.com/ci02121/Sport-Clothing-and-Accessories.html Standards catalogue. (2014, 05 23). Retrieved from ISO: http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_catalogue/catalogue_ics/catalogue_ics_browse.htm? ICS1=59&ICS2=080&ICS3=01 Vendor Files. (2006, 08). (Harris Scarfe) Retrieved from Careers Harris Scarfe: http://www.careers.harrisscarfe.com.au/medias/sys_master/VendorFiles/879878130895 8.pdf Vrouwen sportcollectie hardlopen. (2014, 05). (Perry Sport) Retrieved from Perry Sport: http://www.perrysport.nl/vrouwen/sportcollectie/hardlopen We own the night. (2014, 05). (Nike) Retrieved from Nike: http://www.nike.com/nl/en_gb/c/running/we-own-the-night?ref=http%3A%2F %2Fwww.nu.nl%2Flifestyle%2F3384965%2Fnike-organiseert-hardloopwedstrijdvrouwen.html Wikipedia. (2013). Inkoop. (Wikipedia) From Wikipedia: http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inkoop Wikipedia. (2012). Personeelsbeleid. (Wikipedia) Retrieved from http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personeelsbeleid Women's Running. (2014, 05). Retrieved from Women's Running: http://womensrunning.competitor.com/ ZoWerkt.nl. (2013). ZoWerkt.nl. (ZoWerkt.nl, Editor) Retrieved from ZoWerkt.nl: http://www.zowerkt.nl/productiemedewerker-vacatures-tilburg/
26
I.
Appendix, Product selection
Running freak
Leisure runner
1
II.
Appendix, Mood boards
First the Leisure Runner, A small version here, the A3 sized version on the following pages
Then the Running Freak A small version here, the A3 sized version on the following pages
1
2
3
4
III.
Appendix, Visual design concepts Leisure Runner
1
2
3
IV.
Appendix, Visual design concepts Running Freak
1
2
3
V.
Appendix, Line plan Leisure Runner
1
VI.
Appendix, Line plan Running Freak
1
VII.
Appendix, spring 2015 color stories
1
VIII.
Appendix, Testing templates
Testing template polyester
Testing template 1Attach small cutting of the fabric here
Fabric construction 100% polyester plain (type weefsel/breisel) Important Testing standard (ISO, Rating Minimum Content [ CITATION Eco14 \l 1043 ] ASTM) [ CITATION scale/values (samenstelling) Woven, (yes/no) category of polymers rating Mec13 \l 1043 ] Weight (gewicht) 76 grams per square meter width I. Standard test requirements Cut width 58 cm Density Warp x Weft: 190 x 108 ISO 527 (doekbreedte) (doek Gauge (ndls/inch): 50/72�[ CITATION Tensile strength (treksterkte) No 4 4 dichtheid) Ven06 \l 1043 ] Yarn number (garennummer) 5295/POOOG ASTM D624 Tear strength (scheursterkte) No 3 3 Coloring Piece dyed Special finishes ISO 12945 Pilling no 2 3 Mechanical (eg. Brushing/Sanding, embossing) ASTM 53516 Abrasion (slijtweerstand) No 2 2 Color fastness ratings:
No
ISO 105E01
3
3
Yes
ISO 5077
5
5
No
ISO 4920
4
4
No
ISO 4294
3
3
Light (lichtechtheid) Wash (wasechtheid) Dry cleaning Water Seawater (Zeewaterechtheid) Perspiration (Zweetechtheid) Chlorine (Zwembad) Crocking (Wrijfechtheid) Dimension stability (krimp) Seam strength (naadsterkte) Stretch / Recovery (rekbaarheid)
II. Functional/specific test requirements Moisture Management (zweetafvoer)
No
ASTM D2654
4
4
Waterproofness (waterafstotend)
No
ISO 10776
3-4
4
Yes
ISO 4638
4
4
No
ASTM D1518
4
4
Breathability (ademing) Thermal insulation/Windproof
1
Testing template cotton
Testing template [ CITATION Nat11 \l 1043 ] Fabric construction (type weefsel/breisel) Content (samenstelling) Weight (gewicht) Cut width (doekbreedte)
100% organic cotton, organic jersey
1Attach small cutting of the fabric here
Important (yes/no)
Testing standard (ISO, Rating Minimum ASTM)[ CITATION scale/values rating Cot14 \l 1043 ] Organic jersey, knitted [ CITATION SGo06 \l 176 – 182 grams per square meter width 1043 ][ CITATION Sta14 \l 1043 ] 170 cm Density Warp x Weft: 80 daN x 70 daN (doek dichtheid) Gauge (ndls/inch): 185/58�[ CITATION Ven06 I. Standard test requirements \l 1043 ] ISO 13934-1 Yarn number 3 oz. (85g), 103 yd. (94m) Tensile strength (treksterkte) No 2-5 2 (garennummer) 20S-40S ISO 13937-2 Tear strength (scheursterkte) No 0-3 2 Coloring Piece dyed ISO 12945 Special Pilling no 3 2 finishes Mechanical (eg. Brushing/Sanding, embossing) ISO 12947 Abrasion (slijtweerstand) No 1 1 Color fastness ratings:
No
ISO 105 - C06
3-4
3
Yes
ISO 6330
2
2
No
ISO 13935
3
3
No
ISO 4294
2
2
Light (lichtechtheid) Wash (wasechtheid) Dry cleaning Water Seawater (Zeewaterechtheid) Perspiration (Zweetechtheid) Chlorine (Zwembad) Crocking (Wrijfechtheid) Dimension stability (krimp) Seam strength (naadsterkte) Stretch / Recovery (rekbaarheid)
II. Functional/specific test requirements Moisture Management (zweetafvoer)
No
ASTM D2654
3
2
Waterproofness (waterafstotend)
No
ISO 105 E01
3-4
1
Yes
ISO 4638
3
3
No
ASTM D1518
2
1
1
1
Breathability (ademing) Thermal insulation/Windproof Rain test/Bundesmann
No ISO 22958
2
IX.
Appendix, Technical drawing Leisure runner top
1
X.
Appendix, Model fashioning in scale 1:4
1
XI.
Appendix, working patterns in scale 1:4
1
XII.
Appendix, Working pattern legend
1
XIII.
Appendix, Colored and specified technical drawing
1
XIV.
Appendix, Technical Model Specification form
PRODUCT: leisure runner top
TECHNICAL DRAWING (front view and back view)
MODEL NUMBER: L-002-2014 COLLECTION: spring/summer TARGET GROUP: 20-30 years CLIENT: CAPS REMARKS (model description):
TYPE MODEL: singlet for women NECK: round neck drop with contrast bias FABRIC: 100% cotton BACKPANEL: T-back singlet ADDITIONAL: Very comfortable and soft SLIM FIT
SIZESPECIFICATION (in cm)
SIZE
34
36
38
40
42
CHEST armpit to armpit
38
39
40
41
42
WAIST on 20 cm fr. HSP
35
35,5
36
36,5
37
BOTTOM relaxed
38
39
40
41
42
SHIRT LENGHT FRONT fr. HSP
60,1
61,3
62,5
63,7
64,9
SHOULDER LENGHT
2,6
2,8
3
3,2
3,4
NECK DROP FRONT EXCL.
14
14,5
15
15,5
16
NECK DROP BACK
3
½ ARMHOLE STRAIGHT
3
3
3
3
18,8
19
19,2
19,4
CUFF neck/armhole
1
1
1
1
1
SHOULDERDROP
2
2
2
2
2
SIDELENGHT CROSS. FRONT meas. at. 12 cm fr. HSP
41,1
42,3
43,5
44,7
45,9
21,6
22,8
24
25,2
26,4
CROSS. BACK meas. at. 12 cm fr. HSP
5,6
6,8
8
9,2
10,4
PATTERN PIECES (-/- 10%)
REMARKS:
FRONTPANEL (FRP) 1xFF SIDE PANEL (SDP) 2X BACKPANEL (BAP) 1XFF CUFF NECK (CUN) 1X CUFF ARMHOLE (CUA) 2X
SEAM TYPE / STITCHING
SEAM SYMBOL
No side seam! NECK CUFF: border, contrast ARMHOLE CUFF: border, same color as the main color BOTTOM CUFF: double fold (3 cm)
STITCHING SIZE2
MACHINE TYPE
SEAM ALLOWANCE (cm)
2
DOUBLE COVERSTITCH
3
Flatlock machine
3 cm
TRIPLE COVERSTITCH
3
Lockstitch machine
1 cm
SINGLE TOP STITCH
3
industrial sewing machine
1 cm
OVERLOCK STITCH
3
4-thread safetystitch machine
1 cm
GENERAL CONDITIONS OF DELIVERY
The items need to hang on clothing hangers. At the hangtag in the same position as the prototype. Add the logo in correct dimensions on the appropriate place on the clothes
3
XV.
Appendix, Garment supplier selection table
The following table is retrieved from the project manual “”Global Sourcing” Project manualversion 2013-2014” By the Academy of Creative Technology of SAXION.
Criterion
Supplier A
Location
China
Quality level Experience w/performance materials
Average No experience, but state of the art equipment to support performance materials Woven Yes, organic cotton
Fabric types Experience w/sustainable fabrics (Org. Co, Rec Pes, etc.) Price level
Exporting quotas, preferential duties, for importing into the EU Reputation on working/labor conditions Communication Connection Connection with international materials suppliers
Low for basic commodity, High for innovation Unpredictable, not very stable, no preferential duties Inconsistent, checked internally & by NGO’s Direct Good, used to buying materials from Taiwan & Thailand
Political stability in country
Inconsistent
Communication infrastructure (e.g. Language, IT, etc.) Recovery plans in case of issues
Good at customer service, less in technical support In place and tested frequently
Lead times
60-90 days basic product 120 days technical product 90% capacity filled Gap, Levi’s, Asics
Capacity (% filled vs free) Customer base
Table 1 – Garment supplier selection
Supplier B Thailand
Supplier C Taiwan
Supplier D Turkey
Average More developed in performance materials
High Extensive experience in performance materials & stretch materials
Low No experience requires training
Knits & woven Yes, recycled polyester, PLA, Bamboo, but all imported yarns Medium
Knits & Woven Yes, recycled polyester (chips forward)
Knits Yes, organic cotton only
Low for basic commodity, Medium for innovation Stable, no p.duty
Medium
Average, had 1 issue in last yr, but is committed to solve the issue Via Agent
Average, had 1 issue in last yr, but is committed to solve the issue Direct
Good, checked internally & by NGO’s
No experience, works with specialized knit & woven garment manufacturers inside Thailand Unstable, but things are improving Good, best technical English
Average, well established overseas connections
In place, but not tested
Stable, yes p.duty exists
60-90 days basic product 120 days technical product 90% capacity filled Nike, M&S
Yes p.duty exist, and EU is in favor of TK products
Via own field office Vertical set up, inhouse materials & ready product
Stable
Inconsistent
Good
Very good
Not in place, nothing in planning 75 days basic product 150 days technical product 80% capacity filled Asics, M&S
Starting up phase 30-60 days basic product 80% capacity filled Hema, Gap, Caps, Levi’s