VÊTEMENTS APRIL EDITION
10
SPRING PIECES TO WEAR GET GREAT HAIR
+ PERFECT SKIN
& THE BAG TO BUY
The official Guide to
SPRING FASHION
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INDEX SECTIONS 1-4 COLORS 5-6 TRENDS 7-8 MATCHING 9-10 SHOES 11-12 CLOTHING
1
COLORS
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Spring Colors Palette The creative genius. Colors that illuminate. Textures that embellish. Fashion designers enjoyed “playing artists” for next Spring/Summer 2014. ‘Daring’ is the word, combining the distinctive features of fashion culture with urban contemporary graphic patterns. The result are couture garments that require a suitable fashion trend gallery for Spring/Summer 2014, inspired by the art world.
The distinctive aesthetics of sportswear is incorporated smoothly into daywear. The sweatshirt takes center stage: featuring surrealist motifs, see Stella McCartney, a burnout texture for Alexander Wang or pleated maxi ruffles for Dries Van Noten. And this is how designers turn into real sculptors: they outline with insouciance the silhouette with maxi flounces, see Bottega Veneta, or playful little ruffles, see Rochas.
2
COLORS
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Let’s go back to the mood of remote lands, and hot beaches skimmed by the Pacific Ocean. The wild and uncontaminated nature stands out boldly: hibiscus, tropical flowers and ferns adorn the clothes with their pure colors. See the graphic version by Fausto Puglisi or the sportier number by Tommy Hilfiger, or the delicate hues of the two-tone texture by Marc Jacobs.
And while Elvis Presley used to sing Aloha Oe, channeling the sound of the Hawaii islands, we cannot forget his unique and iconic style. Thanks to his strong personality, leather fringes became popular in the 60s, and are now revisited for Summer 2014: see the new folk dress by the maison Moschino, or the dark mood at Gucci. And if we want to be daring with accessories, from Roberto Cavalli to Valentino, designers get inspired by tribal style, proposing handbags with extra-long fringes.
But while prints are a little too hypnotic, vibrant and mysterious for the tribal taste, pop culture turns them into a celebration of logo-mania and a triumph of color, see the dresses by Christian Dior or Prada that combine art with the world of communication, expressed today by the new media.
3
COLORS
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Let’s go into detail. For the day designers propose the iconic bomber jacket, the symbol of 80s casual style when worn with a pair of jeans, or aviator style, see the first airplanes at the start of the 20th century. The new generations will have plenty of designs to choose from, not necessarily in leather or shearling. Refined and ladylike, the quilted number by Balmain, cropped and metallic for John GalliaFor the evening appliquÊ steals the show: 20s-inspired sequins on the dress by Vera Wang or maxi stones and crystals for Burberry Prorsum. Sportswear inspirations for Mother of Pearls that apply on sneakers decorative elements that recall the style of the King Sun, with a minimal feel.
Women’s Color Palette Designers take a modern twist on the traditional for spring 2014 by pairing soft pastels with vivid brights to create a colorful equilibrium. Inspired by a mixture of blooming flowers, travels abroad, and strong, confident women, designers use color to refresh, revive and defy conventional wisdom.
Three very adaptable pastels sit on one end of the palette,
Sand, a lightly toasted and amiable neutral, con-
and, because we are so accustomed to seeing them as na-
jures images of the beach and the carefree days of
ture's background, they can be creatively combined with
summer. Try pairing Sand with Hemlock for per-
any other color in the spectrum. Placid Blue, like a pictu-
fect, natural balance. Paloma serves as a quintes-
re-perfect, tranquil and reassuring sky, induces a sense of
sential neutral, interesting enough to be worn alone
peaceful calmness, while Violet Tulip, a romantic, vintage
or combined with any color for sophisticated poise.
purple, evokes wistful nostalgia. Similar to the verdant shade of springtime foliage, Hemlock, a summery, ornamental green, provides a decorative touch that's very different from the greens of recent seasons. Pair any of these versatile pastels with a bolder hue for an au courant look.
4
COLORS
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Cayenne, a high-pitched red, adds a dash of spicy heat to neutrals, and heightens the excitement when mixed with Freesia, a blazing yellow that is sure to illuminate wardrobes this season. A tropical, floral-inspired shade, Freesia's warmth and energy help set the stage for Celosia Orange, an optimistic, spontaneous hue. Pair Celosia Orange with Violet Tulip for a captivating vision, much like the setting summer sun.
The palette is brought full circle with Radiant Orchid, a bold counterpart to Violet Tulip, and Dazzling Blue, a scintillating, polar opposite to Placid Blue. Surprisingly, these strong, vibrant colors also pair well across the palette: They are perfect companions to pastels, and add confidence and vivacity when mixed with other bold colors.
Men's Color Palette Light and airy Placid Blue is a perfect background color for spring, offering another alternative to the classic neutrals. Pair it with Comfrey, a more masculine take on the softer Hemlock green from the women's palette, to create a fresh, seasonally inspired look. For a modernized vintage feel, pair Purple Haze, a deeper, stronger version of Violet Tulip, with Paloma, a confident and adaptable gray. As the temperatures rise, we are also seeing a lot of vibrant patterning that combines bold and tropical colors in many sectors of menswear. Create a magnetic look by mixing Magenta Purple, a more robust version of Radiant Orchid, with the higher voltage colors in the palette, like Celosia Orange and Dazzling Blue. These three energetic yet versatile hues are sure to be a hit in spring 2014.
5
TRENDS
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The Top 3 Fashion Trends for Spring
BY REBECCA MALINSKY
T
his season’s runways seemed designed to pique the interest of both historians
and fashion lovers alike. The Spring 2012 collections featured nods to classic details from past decades. Flapper dresses and gold-chain embroidery adorned catwalkers at Gucci, embracing the glamour of the 1920s, while Louis Vuitton showed tweed and lace dresses in beautiful pastel pinks, yellows, and blues, recalling Grace Kelly in 1955’s To Catch a Thief. Fast-forwarding a few decades, the runways of Altuzarra and Stella McCartney saw clean, simple shapes reminiscent of sporty ’90s power dressing. Sleeveless crewneck cocktail dresses and separates illustrate that strong shoulders and toned legs are timeless and sexy accessories.
Miss Manners “I’m so excited ‘pretty’ is back in style,” says Marina Monroe, owner of Stylehaüs, a members-only Melrose Place boutique that pairs clients with stylists who help them develop their dream wardrobes. Adds Monroe, “The ‘New Look’ pioneered by Christian Dior more than 60 years ago is back—in shades of soda-shop pastels.” In addition to the pretty pale hues at shows including Louis Vuitton and Marni, the ’50s look hit a high point at Prada, where models clad in cinched-waist eyelet skirts and chiffon dresses with Cadillac prints ruled the runway.
6
TRENDS
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Game On Varsity athletes won’t be the only people donning tennis whites this spring. Athletic-inspired fashion—from pleats to neoprene—filled the catwalks en masse, keeping with the trend’s fundamentals of clean lines and bold, sharp colors. Formfitting silhouettes—seen in Stella McCartney’s structured minidresses—highlight toned shoulders and long legs, while Altuzarra’s all-white body-conscious dresses take a more subtle approach. “Hussein Chalayan is using neoprene in so many of his designs, from evening gowns to miniskirts,” says Desiree Kohan, owner of Des Kohan boutique. “It’s nice to have a fabulous cocktail dress or a gown that is made partially of neoprene,” says Kohan. “You can dress it up or down.” To further modernize the look, add accessories in primary colors, such as Marni’s white leather and metal shoulder bag, which turns running afternoon errands into a sport all its own.
Gin Fizz Gold and black, shimmer, and drop waists are a just few of the many Roaring ’20s-inspired fashion elements appearing this spring. Structured jackets in gold and green dotted the runways at Gucci, all finished off with gold-mirrored heels that reflected the light Ralph Lauren showed a softer version of the look with flouncy dresses in white, layered with glamorous feather-trimmed cardigans. Jewelry designer Kara Ross is also a fan of the graphic symmetry of Art Deco and the ’20s era. “By bringing everything down to their basic linear elements, Deco exudes strength and confidence,” she says. In Ross’s Gemstone Collection, cluster earrings and statement necklaces have those same clean shapes and lines, and they are trimmed in white sapphires for the ultimate gilded look.
7
MATCHING
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The Knowledge: how to wear the spring 2014 trends BY JOSEPH SIGNER Embrace the flats I have two children and another on the way so my everyday style is low-key and practical. I will be welcoming the flat-shoes trend this season - for the comfort factor, at least. For cold weather invest in a pair of Céline sandals in patent black or a pair of Birkenstocks with double straps and wear with socks or tights. I also have lightweight blackand-white pool sliders that I'll wear with bare feet in the summer. Feeling overdone is my worst nightmare, and mules are perfect for an understated look.
Borrow from the boys Mix sportswear with tailoring for work to smarten up casual pieces. I'm a tomboy at heart so I will be wearing a pair of oversized pleated cropped-pants to work most days (Savile trouser, by Joseph ), with a silk tee and sleeveless tailored coat cut to the knee. Boyfriend pieces have a place in my wardrobe again this season. I buy my husband men's APC raw denim jeans (£125, mrporter.com ) that he dutifully wears in and passes on to me. For a special event try a men's tuxedo suit; look for a masculine cut blazer and slim, slightly cropped, trousers. Saint Laurent's tailoring is the best.
Build up whites White on white is a key trend. Try to mix textures and layers when wearing head to toe of any one colour. The collections this season include textures from techno finishes to classic cottons and transparent silks. Combining different weights, such as white lace or chiffon, and eveningwear weaves, such as satin, are interesting on the eye. Be sure to keep colours and shapes bold and clean for layering to work. My favourite materials to work with are organza and transparent fabrics, which you can layer in silver over whites to soften the block of colour. Recently, I've also been wearing a lot of dark bottle green, which will continue to be a principle colour into next season.
8
MATCHING
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Choose pleats for parties For eveningwear, I will be investing in a monochrome pleated organza skirt by Celine, which is knee-length and cut asymmetrically. To balance out delicate pleats wear block heels, nothing too fine or strappy. I like Maison Martin Margiela's black leather ankle boots (ÂŁ510, brownsfashion.com ). If you are worried about how pleats might fall on your body shape try a very simply cut white sheath dress, which you could wear with a cropped blazer.
Be bold with print 
 As a designer I like to put together total printed looks. Although that may come across as quite difficult to wear, I actually think that print looks better when mixed head to toe. Choose sporty shapes so that the look is modern and graphic and make a statement with clashing prints. Pick up on the tribal trend for holidays - whenever I am in the sunshine the bohemian side of me comes out. Hunt around for some vintage kaftans from the seventies or an embellished tunic and wear with simple flats.
1
9
SHOES
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Taiwanese Shoemaker Takes on Prada, LVMH in Paris Expansion BY BLOOMBERG
PARIS, France — Stella International Holdings
Both companies’ brands are clients of Stella’s con-
Ltd.,
manufactu-
tract manufacturing business, according to its web-
res for companies such as Prada SpA, plans to
site. Western brands have rushed into the Chinese
expand its own brands in Paris, turning into a
market to grab a slice of the country’s luxury mar-
lower priced competitor to luxury clients there.
ket to tap rising incomes. Stella, which had about
The contract manufacturer plans to add two shops
400 stores in China as of March, would be buc-
in Paris by end of this year and expand into other
king that trend to expand in the opposite direction.
locations in Europe, Stephen Chi, chief exe-
“We want to be an international brand,” Chi said.
cutive officer of the company’s women’s foo-
“We want to build a global platform and bring
twear and retail business division, said in a July
affordable luxury for women around the world.”
the
Asian
shoemaker
that
10 phone interview. The company, which was founded in Taiwan and trades on the Hong Kong stock exchange, already has one Paris store. In the world’s fashion capital, Stella faces larger and better known labels including Prada and LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA.
SPRING ESSENTIALS
10
SHOES
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MIU MIU Established in Taiwan in 1982, Stella has been making shoes for luxury brands such as LVMH’s Givenchy. The footwear maker doesn’t aim to compete with luxury clients like Givenchy, Chi said. After
years
wants
to
of
duce
shoes
manufacturing
leverage
the
under
for
experience its
luxury to
own
design
brands,
brands,
it
and
pro-
he
said.
“We are not Prada, Givenchy or Miu Miu,” he said. “We just want to be the best brand possible in terms of quality and price.” Prada
didn’t
lla
and
ly
return
Stella
an
comment
on
official
for
LVMH
didn’t
an
seeking
calls
also
and
manufactures
its
for
relationship
casual
with
Ste-
immediate-
footwear
comment. compa-
nies such as Clarks, ECCO, Rockport and Timberland. Manufacturing accounted for the bulk of its business, or about 92 percent of its $1.55 billion total revenue in 2012. The company expects its retail business will account for 20 percent of total revenue in five years as it opens more shops and expands into other categories such as handbags and accessories. It also expects the retail business to keep growing in “double digits” for this year, Chi said. The shoemaker in 2006 started selling its self-developed “Stella Luna” and “What For” brands in mainland China, and recently introduced “JKJY” brand. Retail revenue gained 21 percent to $119.4 million in 2012 and its contribution to the company’s total revenue rose to 7.7 percent from 6.6 percent a year earlier. Parisians
are
very
demanding
on
quality
and
de-
sign, said Chi, who is also an executive director and the chief designer at the company. “If we can be successful in Paris, we’ll have a much easier task anywhere else.”
11
CLOTHE
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Spring fashion: Crop tops, high waists, wide legs It’s still chilly in much of the country, but stores are clearing out coats and sweaters to make way for spring’s bright colors and lighter clothing. And if you’re looking to update your wardrobe this season, you’ll need to know about a few key trends: crop tops, high waists and wider legs in pants. But don’t panic yet about the idea of wearing a top that might not reach your navel. There are several ways to pull off the potentially midriff-baring trend - even if you prefer to dress on the conservative side. “Crop tops are not the easiest thing to wear,” said Hayley Phelan, fashion features editor at Lucky magazine, acknowledging that skin-baring styles are not always “appropriate” for work or other situations. “But there are so many ways to wear crop tops that we saw on the runway and that we love at Lucky.” For example, you can layer a crop top over a blouse, Phelan said. Or wear a boxy crop top over high-waisted and
don’t
pants worry
or about
a
high-waisted revealing
much
skirt, skin.
“I would say a crop top is a must-have for spring,” Phelan said. “But make it one that you feel comfortable in. With a boxier shape, you can wear it on multiple occasions.”
12
CLOTHE
Another strong trend Lucky editors noticed for spring is the “painterly print,” meaning “bold, graphic brush strokes” and “art-inspired” designs, including portrait art and actual faces or flowers appearing on garments. “We saw faces at Prada and flowers at Dior,” she said. Finally, get ready for sandals and slides that are more hiker than fashionista what Lucky editors call “the ugly shoe.” “It’s that kind of Birkenstock shape,
or
even
like
Tevas,”
Phelan
said. “But that’s what’s cool about it - fashionable people wearing a fashionable outfit that’s put together,
putting
on
these
sandals.”
Overall, she said, the silhouette for spring is evolving from past seasons: “It’s a tighter more form-fitting top but looser on the bottom, with high-waisted baggier pants and wide-legged culottes. It’s an interesting shape, but what pairs perfectly with culottes is the crop top.” John Bourgeois, who directs personal shopping in the Midwest for Macy’s By Appointment, said the region is definitely seeing the looser leg look. “Pants are a little softer this year,” Bourgeois said. “The fabrication is very soft and flowy and whimsical.” Pink was cited as big for spring by retailers and shoppers in Dallas,
Chicago
surprisingly
-
and in
-
maybe
tropical
less
Miami.
“Women should look for pink in every shade,” said Ken Downing, fashion director of luxury chain Neiman Marcus, which has its flagship store in downtown Dallas. He added those varying shades of pink can be worn all in one outfit, and mentioned “denim on denim” - shirt, jeans and jacket in various washes - as another trend.
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