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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & FOUNDER Ekaterina Dokuchaeva GRAPHIC DESIGNER Nikita Eliseev CONTRIBUTORS Gökay Catak Esmay Wagemans Owen Vincent Evgenia Kayumova Anna Danilova Huy Au Amandine Armand Adam Jones Jonathon Liu Magdalena Czajka Max Natov Hui Shen Yanez Amanda Marianna Vysotskaya Séna Aurélia Jamie Adams Paulina Masevnina EDITORIAL editorial@just-magazine.com ADVERTISING info@just-magazine.com www.just-magazine.com
PLEASANT SENSE OF FASHION INJECTION
Photographer Marianna
Vysotskaya
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BLACK HILLS 18 Gรถkay ร atak ESMAY WAGEMANS 34 interview HOT MINDED 46 Ekaterina Dokuchaeva BELLONA BELLADONNA 62 Owen Vincent ARTWORK 72 Hui shen MERMAID 82 Anna Danilova DUALITY 94 Huy Au JAMIE ADAMS 96 interview GET MAD WITH ME 120 Paulina Masevnina MARIANNA VYSOTSKAYA 130 interview ON THE MOVE 140 Mari Pshenichnikova Y-QUE? 154 Sista studio SUPER POWER 172 Adam Jones GOOD OR EVIL 184 Max Natov CLINIC 192 Jonathon Liu BURNING FLOWERS 202 Ekaterina Dokuchaeva WARSAW DREAM 214 Magdalena Czajka DREAMING IN COLOR 226 Amanda Yanez MARI PSHENICHNIKOVA 236 interview SECRET PLAYGROUND 242 Nala Luna ANOTHER SIDE 13 Evgenya Kayumova 254
Editors Letter 14
Welcome to Just Magazine Autumn 2016. This issue is a bit trashy, arty and turns you to reveal the extremely nice part of your mind on the outskirts of the subconscious, turns to think about the Duality; the idea of two souls living in one body, one a timid and ambitious and the other proper and ready to take on the world like everybody else. Too often people trade in their passions for something more socially acceptable, and hide who they wanted to be under sophisticated corporate clothing, too often we are scared. (Words by Huy Au, more at page 94) Please, enjoy our Autumn 16 issue full of stunning fashion photography or contemporary art and remember: there is always 15 another side.
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black hills Photographer Gรถkay ร atak Fashion Editor Zeynep Simsek Hair Ibrahim Zengin Make Up Chloe Imre Model Ginte@Option Management Istanbul
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BLUZ&GLOVES HAKANAKKAYA / BELT VINTAGE / PANT MEHMET EMIROGLU / BOTYVINTAGE2
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COAT EMRE ERDEMOGLU / GLOVE ELIF DOMANIC / SKIRT HAKANAKKAYA / BLUZZY MASSIMO
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esmay wagemans visual artist
Amsterdam-based visual artist E.W mainly focused on the female body with her projects, campaigning against the hypocrisy of social media in relation to their embedding of the obsolete ideologies referring to the female nipple as ‘explicit content’. Just Magazine spoke to Esmay about the creation of «Second Skin», why she thinks it’s important to eliminate inequality and revolt against tabooing the female nudity.
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NAKED?" Who is Esmay Wagemans? Tell us briefly about As a kid I already liked crafts and playing with different yourself and how did you discover your passion kind of materials or combining household liquid stuff of my mother. When I took a shower I always grabbed a cap from for work with latex? a shampoo bottle and filled it with toothpaste, cleaning Hi, I’m Esmay. Living in the Netherlands. Just started my products and soap, hoping something beautiful or interlast year (finally) and minor in Hacking at the Willem de esting thing came out. But I actually never thought about Kooning Academy. Always using material to visualize my working with materials like rubber when I started the art researches. In my work I seek to push boundaries conform academy. At some day I had to work for an boring schoolthe normative ideas around sex, sexism and the female project in our school ceramic workspace. Since I was almost body. And I try to search for new ways of understanding never there, I didn’t knew anything about all the materials. 37 what it means to be naked and how we experience wearing My workspace mentor Patricio introduced me to the basics clothes. and also the latex, and that’s where the love began.
How did you invent a special kind of latex? Are you a chemist someway? What is the most difficult or challenging aspect of working with this material?
latex when it’s still liquid, so you can make any structure or shape with it you want. The latex is very simple to work with. The only thing that can be difficult is the age of your project. After a while the latex will become drier and it will discolor. You can compare it with the aging of the human It’s not a special kind of latex I work with, also didn’t in- skin. It can be really nice if it suits your project. It gives it vent a special kind. It’s the same latex people use to make more life. But if you want a smooth looking product, it’s fetish clothing, only then is the latex already made in a fac- better to use other and more chemical materials like some tory before you order it. So you get in on a roll. I use the rubbers or silicon.
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How does your workspace look like?
The key idea of your artwork is “to free the nipple” or…?
My workspace is a mess. People always think it’s a place where I never can find anything back, but that definitely The base of Second Skin is inspired by free-the-nipple isn’t true. Protecting my workspace over here. I always find and creating a ‘problem-solving’ product which wouldn’t everything back. I’m working on a lot of different projects break the social media guidelines. But the key idea is about now, so my room is filled with chemicals, pigments, drying exploring the boundaries between nudity and non-nudity. tests, unfinished projects, used brushes etc. I don’t like it to clean it up. Love all the colored en dried rubber leftovers. It’s also very inspiring to start new project. But I can imagine you don’t believe that from seeing this picture.
"EXPLORING THE BOUNDARIES
BETWEEN NUDITY AND NON-NUDITY"
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Don’t you think that women are always wanted to be treated as sexualobjects? To be attractive in a sexual way is very substantial. Maybe socialnetworks are caring our nipples as a great treasure by not showing them everyday as those people who hide the best paintings into a storeroom and look atthem very rarely just not to let them became boring as a daily routine. What doyou think?
Our theme for Autumn 2016 issue is “duality”. Do you notice the duality thingand where? What kind of duality do you most concerned? I think al forms of discrimination keeps me thinking the most. It’s coming back around you every day in every form in the most concerning ways.
I don’t like the idea about hiding a painting in a storeroom so they don’t become boring. It reminds me of people they don’t want to see their partner too often so they can miss each other more, and then as a result like each other more when they meet again. Something doesn’t sound correctly about that to me. The question that’s for me a lot more important for my work is if the the naked body is really that shocking to us, or whether is the perfect example of a self-fulfilling prophecy.
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To be inspired by your own body is a great thing. What upcoming projects can we expect to see We got inspired by you works so much. By the way, from you?
what fascinates you about the art world today?
At this moment, all other artists who work with different kind of materials. The fashion week in New York at this moment is candy for the eyes. It’s so inspring to see how designers make weird materials wearable and how they combine it with textile.
I just finished a project with MAISON THE FAUX but we might do some things more. In October I’m part of an exhibition in New York in the St. John the Divine cathedral, so i’m very busy with the preparations for that at the moment. Also just started a new collaboration which I can’t tell something about it until it’s coming out. And beside that project I hope to focus on my graduation schoolproject. But they probably will all have to do something with the body and a lot of rubber.
To see more of Esmay’s work, follow her on Instagram @esmaywagemans
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hot minded Photographer Ekaterina Dokuchaeva Designer Olya Kosterina Make-up Vitalia Gichka Model Dasha Sleptsova
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Fierce; commandeering and alight with passion, the Ancient Roman goddess of war, Bellona, is the epitome of female strength. So devoted were her followers, the Bellonarii, that during the debauched festival of Dies Sanguinis (the Day of Blood) they would take part in rituals which consisted of mutilating their own limbs as a sacrifice to profess loyalty to their goddess. This act of self-inflicted bloodshed was more than just an offering to the goddess Bellona, it signified a deeper connection, an unwavering dedication. It was a masochistic display of their pain for her pleasure.
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The theme of female dominance resonates throughout this editorial, femininity and power merge together to create a highly-charged force; a force which is extremely attractive but also incites trepidation. The concept of female dominance goes hand in hand with the juxtaposition of pain and pleasure, and ultimately we’re presented with the dynamic of seduction and fear.
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Delicate lace and ghost-like chiffon meet restrictive latex and bondage harnesses. Adorned with studs and spikes, these are symbols of ferocity and battle, they make the wearer untouchable whilst holding the potential to inflict pain upon others. In this case the threat of harm is empowering and inviting, it provides a highly sensual quality. Like the irresistible forbidden fruit in the garden of Eden, it seems humans have always possessed an inexplicable attraction to danger. Perhaps it’s carnal instinct, the predator and the prey, or Stockholm Syndrome on a different level. The thrill of danger is taboo, but it is something that human beings revel in. The female dominant effortlessly assumes total control, she radiates an ominous yet beautiful energy. Although she is fearsome she holds the innate power to nurture and protect, closely resembling the nature of the goddess Bellona. (Words by Molly Haywood)
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artwork Photographer Hui Shen Stylist Séna Aurélia www.senaaurelia.com Makeup Gaëlle Bonnot Hair Mayu Morimoto Model Robin@ MademoiselleAgency
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DIAMOND TURBAN YVY BOLERO & JUMPSUIT ELISABETTA FRANCHI
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M E R M A I D photographer: Anna Danilova model: Anastasia Ivanova muah: Ira Sann & Nuriyat Osmanova style: Omut (omut.jewelry) location: Obscur studio
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Designer Nastya Klimova has been experimenting with various shapes and materials with the focus on metal and leather for a few years perfecting her own style, which can be characterized as romantic urbanism. The collection created for a free and quick image transformation has united both manufacturability and provocative stylization. These accessories inspire for an absolutely new approach to stylistic combinations and create an opportunity to take a fresh look at common things. The sources of inspiration for the collection have come from the mermaid mythology and retrofuturism, glam rock and the heritage of Paco Robanne. OMUT hyper-jewelry images look staid, powerful and complete. As an artist I’m absolutely inspired with these shapes. During the photoshoot I aimed to recreate dark and extramundane atmosphere, which is peculiar to brand’s philosophy and personally for me.
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D L
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by Huy Au
Eventually somewhere in your twenties, we all grow up. Little boys with the world at their feet will soon turn into men who pay their monthly bills on time and the little girls who once daydreamed in their mothers words will one day become feminists fighting for their beliefs in an uneven playing field. But along the way, age will soon slowly kill our child like spirits and curious regret will always dwell in the back of our minds.
I woke up this morning and shaved with a razor duct taped to a fork, ate leftovers and scurried out of the door to a job that does not yet allow me to settle down with children and own that white picketed fence that every stereotypical family movie seems to have but it does allow to me to work with passion and allows me the time to enjoy my youth. I remember the days when I fell into the cliché and found any job that would make do and give me the appearance that seemingly showed everyone that I just like We are told to know who we are by our twenty first them and everyday I hated working. Finally after almost birthdays and generally if we do not know by then- if we years spent and all the money saved for a family that I did have not yet worked it all out, or if we still don’t know who not even want yet I traveled the world and gained a whole we will be for the rest of our lives, we will naturally become new world. afraid of never ‘making it’ and will inevitably settle for careers rather than lifestyles, we will trade in our vintage camI look forward to having grey hair one day and simply eras for office phones and even make ourselves believe that sitting on a wooden porch with my grandchildren lying at our dreams was only our innocent imagination. my feet and sitting on my lap telling them the stories of travel and exploration ingrained in my wrinkles, I cannot Duality; the idea of two souls living in one body, one a wait to make them laugh by recounting my twenties and timid and ambitious and the other proper and ready to take show them photographs of what I did with my time. Withon the world like everybody else. Too often people trade in in the society we live in, it’s almost presumed that you are their passions for something more socially acceptable, and a failure if you’re not married by thirty with a full time job hide who they wanted to be under sophisticated corporate and kid along the way. Stuff that - be what you want to be. clothing, too often we are scared. Words by Huy Au (free-lance writer living in Melbourne) huytauu@gmail.com
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Jamie Adams (born 1961) is an American painter. He was born and raised in the suburbs of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. For his undergraduate studies he attended Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh, where he obtained a BFA with honors in 1983. In 2000 he earned an MFA from the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts in Philadelphia. His work is represented in the permanent public collections of Museu Brasileiro da Escultura (São Paulo, Brazil), Museum of Modern Art Library (New York), MOMA (Wales), Los Angeles County Museum of Art Research Library, Daum Museum of Contemporary Art, Medrad Corporation, the Pennsylvania Capitol Building (Senate, House of Representatives, Governor’s office), Carnegie Mellon University, the University of Pittsburgh, the University of Michigan Med-
ical School, and the Olin Library Collection at Washington University in Saint Louis. His work has been cited internationally in publications such as Art in America, Bulletin du Musée Ingres (Montauban, France), and the book Fragonard, Regards croisés, co-authored by Louvre curators Dimitri Salmon and JeanPierre Cuzin (Département des Peintures, Musée du Louvre). Adams is represented by David Klein Gallery (Birmingham, MI), Zolla Lieberman Gallery (Chicago), Hespe Gallery (San Francisco), Philip Slein Gallery (St. Louis), and Lamensch-Douglas Fine Art (Lyon, France). He resides with his wife and children in St. Louis, Missouri.
Who is Jamie Adams? Tell us briefly about yourself and how did you discover your passion for painting? I am a family man, living in the Midwest for the last 13 years. I have been obsessed with creating images of figures, actually since the age of two. It all began with my mother constantly handing me a pencil and paper. She says it was the sedative she used to keep her hyperactive child preoccupied. My father also used to play this game where he would begin a drawing of something in the room and ask me to finish it. This is how I really became hooked by the magic of drawing. To ‘finish’ his drawing, I had to imagine something, figure it out, and visualize what his assortment of marks on a page were doing. It was also hugely entertaining to turn the tables, subvert the intentions of the author and make the drawing into something else entirely! This kind of visual tricky has never left the images I create.
What is the most difficult or challenging aspect of being an artist in 2016? Given the ubiquity of the smart phone and the rise of social media immediate access to information—visual, textual—it’s often difficult to manage its rapid dissemination and over-accumulation. As a result, language—and particularly with a media-form such as painting--becomes marginalized. For the figurative painter living under these conditions, the weight of art history can be particularly overwhelming. I like to say the key, if your abilities can take you there, is not to avoid history, but to press yourself into it and make room. Frankly, I feel rather privileged to be given the opportunity to be creative, to bear witness to my own experiences and the world around me, and to be a part of a larger community, Washington University in St. Louis, where I work with tremendously gifted and ambitious colleagues and students. I think the overriding challenge is to find sustainability and balance with all of this, and manage it in a way that still allows me to prioritize my role as a husband and father of four daughters.
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How does your workspace look like? My studio is adjacent to our home. It’s a bit smaller than other studios I have occupied, but it’s comfortable given it’s close proximity. In past summers, I used to get up at 4am and work in solitude until lunchtime when the kids got up. We would then pack up the car and go for a swim for a few hours. I called it the “St. Louis Siesta”. From time to time the kids will meander into the studio and set up their own work stations. Occasionally I am the recipient of their opinions/ critiques about my work… Hence the collapsing the business studio space and personal life with these marvelous interactions has proved to be quite rewarding.
Tell us a bit about your Solo Exhibition starts last Friday. Currently, I have a number of paintings in an exhibition for the month of September titled “Porch and a Vista” at Zolla Lieberman Gallery in Chicago. The title of the show, “Porch and a Vista”, implies looking into the past and imagining the future. The porch was a private space in the back of my childhood home. The vista is a reference to Pierre Bonnard’s painting “Earthly Paradise” (1916-20), located at the The Art Institute of Chicago Museum. Bonnard’s piece likely references utopian dreams and the severe devastation of Europe following World War I (by way of William Morris’ epic poem).
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Can you pick some favorite works of yourself the world, dealing with recurring social themes of identity, from recent or time ago? Describe them, please love, and desire. I create characters in order to probe my own questions about identity. I think of them as portrait from the idea to finished work.
projections fashioned out of borrowed imagery reminiscent One recent painting that is at least a bit curious to me of cinematic culture of the 1950s and 60s, other paintings, is “Niagaralounge”. It’s a painting of my muse, Jean Se- photos, or vintage books. I construct them to consciousberg, who was featured in so many of the Jeannie grisa- ly mirror cinematic tropes—projection, montage, and, of ille paintings. These were paintings loosely based on Jean course, the fabrications of celebrity personae—as a way Luc Godard’s French new wave film Breathless, a series of to insinuate a complication or disturbance. Increasingly, works lasting nearly seven years from 2005-2012. She re- their intrusion or mediation affect a redressing of the figappears in this later work from my Niagara series, a new set ural form. of paintings completed in full color and based on another film, Henry Hathaway’s Technicolor American noir Niagara From the pinknblue series, Rhead (2001) is an exam(1956). Here she is portrayed not just as the model, but ple where scale shifts mix with art references and mimic as the artist where I have included some of “her work” in cinematic montage to create a fractured figure. Misfitted the background. These images of paintings comes from my men (2003-2005), a later series, proposed the portrait disown private artistic experiments, works that may become persed across a time-line. The body as multiplicity is mobilized. Feigning coherency, it exhibits conditions of flux, something more substantial down the road. transience, or transformation. In the Jeannie series, the Your works look both so contemporary and paintings represented the Jean Seberg character as more vintage. Who are the hyperrealistic subjects of of a continuum of mother, lover, and self. As if by culturyour paintings and where did you find your al or historic inscription, I wanted her role to change from inspirations? painting to painting, adapting to changing roles of model-mother (jeanniefornarina), fertive love, or ephebic male My figurative work is largely autobiographical, function- (jeanniesongie). ing as personal memoir. It is my own response to life and
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Our theme for Autumn 2016 issue is “duality”. Do you notice the duality thing and where? What kind of duality do you most concerned? The last few summers I have traveled to Florence, Italy to teach a drawing class with Washington University students. One of my favorite sites to revisit is the Palazzo del Bargello, where many important sculptures by Renaissance artists such as Michelangelo, Ghiberti, Donatello, and Giambologna are housed. Most notable to me is Michelangelo’s Bacchus, created when he was just 21 years old. When I first saw this work in person, I was profoundly affected: there is something mesmerizing about standing in front of such a massive and wonderfully complex sculpture. The oversized figure seemed to come alive, as if a body in the midst of transformation. Bacchus’ figure seemed fluid, cinematic, subtly moving through dualities of gender, age, and time. I now know that I was not alone in this assessment as I recently read Giorgio Vasari’s own words that the artist’s work presented “both the slenderness of a young man and the fleshiness and roundness of a woman”. My own characters similarly embody this kind of physical/physic mobility— where seemingly disparate elements can coexist.
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What upcoming projects can we expect to see from you? I am continuing to develop a series of “Blondie Bubba” paintings, where I re-envision scenes from my father’s youth, albeit fictitious. In some of the works I collapse generations/time where my father and daughters can interact together as children within the same space. I am also working on images that are based on reflections of the tragedies and social inequities experienced in so many places. One recent work “Fergie Huggie Honeymoon” is my response, more specifically, to an incident which took place in Ferguson, Missouri, just a few miles away from where we live.
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MARIANNA VYSOTSKAYA photographer
Who is Marianna Vysotskaya? Tell us briefly about yourself and how did you discover your interest in fashion photography? Hello! What can I tell you, I’m a photographer for a long time in total, but I’ve got 4 years in the fashion industry, thanks to a happy occasion, and one person, for whom I’m immensely grateful. If you realize that you need to leave your room and go forward, you’d better do that, the results will surprise and delight you.
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How would you define your personal style? In fact, I am told that I have a style, probably from the outside it is more visible. I, unfortunately or not, do not notice it, or rather do not pay attention. Rather, what I like to shoot and that I’m already shot, forms the style.
I like to observe the person before the shooting, how he or she talks, how to smile, love to remark the gestures. Then all I’m trying to bring it all into photography. Sometimes, when doing tests and not in a hurry, I can slack off tales, so just look for the human reaction. In general, I do not stick certain rules.
Where do you find your inspirations? Have any particular photographers or artists influenced your work recently? I try to draw inspiration throughout. If I get tired, then I stop to look beautiful and correct pictures, start to look just trash, jokes and another slag.
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What emotions are most present in your work and why do you choose to portray them?
No, it’s not inspiring, but after that, the perception of the world is set to zero, and can be re-inspired by almost everything. Recently I adore Burial, Massive Atack, Glo, and those who make the similar music. I can not live without it now, it conveys all that I feel. From the latest movies, TV shows or rather “The Stranger Things” and “Twin Peaks”, are very popular, music, images, characters, idea. I love when something that is so present on the screen that you want to go to the screen and take a walk in this world, which the author has created. The same thing in photography. I love when photos are real and looks natural, that you want to believe it.
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Our theme for Autumn 2016 issue is “duality”. Do you notice the duality thing and where? What kind of duality do you most concerned? My attitude to life is twofold, I’m always confident in everything for 50/50. If I understand you correctly.
I like when a beautiful person got an insidious character or vice versa. In photography, the same good picture could be produced by a great team as well as by just two people.
Who would you most like to collaborate not say that I want to do photos just like him because with from within the visual arts and fashion I want to make it my own way. But to be honest, his works are fabulous. I love the color, and now he has it spheres? I’ve got a favorite - Miles Aldridge, I like his work for a very long time, I’d love to be his assistant. I can
all, which many photographers are missing.
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How does your cultural environment influ- are not so many people. Also, there is a place not so ence your way of working? far from my house, the industrial one, next to the Ring There are a few places that I always enjoy. It’s VVC Park in the morning and the Botanical Garden in Moscow when no one was there when everything is closed and you’re alone or at night too, when there
Road. The path length of 500 meters, on the one side there is the forest on the other side is the stream of cars, divided by low bushes, on top - the power line, such wilderness. But it is incredibly atmospheric, who was there can confirm my words. I love all the spa-
cious, large field area, the mountains, so I could see I can not even promise about the new project yet, everything in the distance. But I don’t think it affects there are some thoughts about it, but it all depends my photography. on the finances.
What upcoming projects can we expect to see from you?
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V E PH Mari Pshenichnikova Model Ulyana Lukoyanova Conceptual clothing by MARP AW16 collection
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The basis of the MARP A W16 collecti the creation on was form of an image of relaxedne ed by ed d of a moving ss imensions, th and self-suffi person whic e choice of fa c iency houe h is directly person’s tem brics, the dy ttes, organic connected w perament, e namism of si practicality. ith the motional sp of actions. lirit and the message These qualiti Inspiration so es are natura urces: works flight of bird l in the worl Je of the Frenc a n Lacroix; an d of fauna s, in the mo h designer B th roposophic p in the orga vements of ming of fish. oris ainting; fash animals, in th nic architec ion of the 80 ture; anima e swim- Ba The wildlife th; l color; the c rbara Streisa esthetics wit inema imag nd, the imag h its function reflection in e of e of a broad fight in its cra ality has fou the collectio soul full of in ving to the id nd the n: wide surfa te rnal e a ls. ces and folds, intend-
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SISTA STUDIO
Y- Q U E ? Fashion designer, Art director Amandine Armand Graphic designer, Art director Lise Armand Model Mariana Martins Hair & Make-Up Artist Kiké Souza Photographer Taïna Vaïana All clothes and print are original design by Sista studio
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Sista studio is an experimental creative workshop curated by two french sisters, Amandine Armand (fashion designer, Art director) and Lise Armand (graphic designer, Art director). Beverly Hills, South Central, Echo Park, Santa Monica, Hollywood stars, gangbangers, luxury villas, ghettos...Los Angeles is the city of contrasts. Through his new clothing line Y-Que?, Sista studio tried to draw the outlines of this paradoxical and complex city.
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Y-Que? is the clash between two paradoxical universes where the ghetto-street of Echo Park intertwines radically with the outrageous opulence of Hollywood. These two opposite universes, one fatalistic, the other utopian, raise the question of the pursuit of the American Dream for the disadvantaged social classes. Through the staging an ultra feminine character who wears both the bling-bling codes of Hollywood and those attributed to the violence of cholas, Amandine and Lise give us an almost allegorical vision of Los Angeles.
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Y-Que?: Spanish equivalent of “So what?”. This expression represents both the badass and nonchalant attitude of cholas but can also be interpreted as an open question, one marked by despair and fatalism: “what happens next?”.
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Adam Jones Model Susannah @ Boss Models
HAT ZARA / JACKET PULL & BEAR DRESS ZARA / SHOES ASOS AMBER
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LONG SLEEVED TOP MOTEL / SHORT COLLARED TOP MONKI / JEANS ZARA / SHOES ASOS AMBER
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SHIRT ZARA / TROUSERS ASOS WHITE SKIRT ZARA / BAG ZARA / SHOES ASOS AMBER
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POLO TOP ASOS / SHIRT TOPSHOP SKIRT ZARA /JEANS MONKI SHOES ASOS AMBER /SUNGLASSES SPITFIRE
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DRESS TOPSHOP BOUTIQUE JACKET MOTO / SHOES ASOS AMBER
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G O O D O R E V I L Photography: Max Natov Models: Tanya Zaitseva @Mars Model Management Polina Z @grace models Makeup: Olesia Aznabaeva & Anastasia Silantieva
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BLOUSE LAROOM / SHORTS BY BAZHINA / STOCKINGS CALZEDONIA / SHOES HIGH LIGHTS
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BLOUSE / SKIRT LAROOM / BODYSUIT BASE MOSCOW / SHOES ZARA
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JUMPSUIT LAROOM / BODYSUIT ZARA / SHOES HIGH LIGHTS / CHOCKER ZARA
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BLOUSE GRAVITEIGHT / SKIRT GRAVITEIGHT / SHOES ZARA
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SKIRT T-SKIRT / COAT GRAVITEIGHT / BODYSUIT BASE MOSCOW / SHOES ZARA
TOP GRAVITEIGHT / JUMPSUIT LAROOM / SHOES ZARA / CHOCKER T-SKIRT
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Creative Direction Photographer Hair Stylist Models
Jonathon Liu Josh Geelen Selina Chhaur FTM Model Management Paige, Brooke
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Jonathon Liu is an emerging creative artist, based in Adelaide, South Australia. Having recently completed his Bachelor of Laws, he stepped away from the legal industry, and started pursuing a career in fashion.
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With an eye for timeless fashion, and a taste of modern aesthetics, his work is built around the concepts of identity. The conflicting nature of the elements in his work showcases his perception of lost identity; the question we constantly ask ourselves: Who am I?
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The concept for Clinic arose from the ideas of heritage, and how traditional values differ against values of the younger generation. There is no escape from the question of “Who Am I?� In trying to answer the question and understand ourselves better, we go through a loss of identity. Where do we fit in this world? Are we masking our true identities just to fit into society norm?
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b u r n i n g f l o w e r s PHOTOGRAPHER EKATERINA DOKUCHAEVA
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Banksianae
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Celosia cristata 207
Cinnamomeae
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Cockscomb
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W A R S A W D R E A M photography Magdalena Czajka styling Agnieszka Anikin / Art of Style make-up Katarzyna Biały models Milena Gawryluk / Rebel Models, Basia Stronska / Specto Models
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MILENA TOP ZARA / SKIRT MANGO BASIA COAT STRADIVARIUS / TOP&PANTS EDYTA PIETRZYK
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BASIA&MILENA DRESS CONFASHION
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MILENA BLAZER MANGO / SHIRT&PANTS EDYTA PIETRZYK / SWEATSHIRT DOMI GRZYBEK / DRESS MANGO / SHOES H&M
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BASIA DRESS BERSHKA / CHOKER NEW LOOK MILENA DRESS ZARA / CHOKER NEW LOOK
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DRESS ZARA / SWEATSHIRT DOMI GRZYBEK
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LEFT - TOP ESCADA / SCARF AMERICAN APPAREL / SUNGLASSES VINTAGE PUSSY WILLOW RIGHT - TOP JONES NY / SCARF AMERICAN APPAREL / SUNGLASSES VINTAGE PUSSY WILLOW
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d re a m i n g i n c o l o r Photographer Stylist Makeup Artist Hair Stylist Models Agent
Amanda Yanez Marcus Elliott Elena Kuzmenko Vi Giang tuongvigiang.com Sansa & Kinga at New York Model Management Taylor W.
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BODYSUIT AMERICAN APPAREL / ROBE VINTAGE PUSSY WILLOW
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DRESS MOSCHINO / NECKLACES VINTAGE PUSSY WILLOW
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AMANDAYANEZ.COM @MARCUSJAMESELLIOTT @ELENAKU_ TUONGVIGIANG.COM
SCARF AMERICAN APPAREL / DRESS MOSCHINO
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LEFT - TOP MODE DE PARIS / PANTS GUCCI RIGHT - TOP NECKLACE VINTAGE PUSSY WILLOW / PANTS VALENTINO
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DRESS, JEWELRY, SUNGLASSES VINTAGE PUSSY WILLOW
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mari DESIGNER
pshenichnikova
Designer Mari Pshenichnikova PH Igor Klepnev www.klepnev.com Model Milena Yatsyna @FCmodels Mua | Eugene Bazhenova 236
www.marpcollections.com
Tell us briefly about yourself and how did you winter, we have thirty five or forty degrees below zero. Now discover your interest in fashion design? I based in Moscow. My name is Mari Pshenichnikova. Name for pronunciation is very complicated, so I named the brand MARP. The name derives from my first and last name and my education history. I studied at MARHI (Moscow Architectural Institute) (graduated in 2012 ) and at Polimoda (graduated in 2014). I was born in the small northern city of Russia - Ukhta. In
When I was 15 years old, I graduated from the courses “Tailoring and sewing�. I studied 3 years and at the end I was able to cut and sew any clothes, I did it for myself and for friends. I had my own customers from the second year of the Architectural Institute. I graduated Bachelor of Architecture and I went to Polimoda in Fashion Design in 2012.
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What are your main inspirations, and how do The basis of the MARP AW16 collection was formed by you see your designs evolving? the creation of an image of relaxedness and self-sufficiency My main inspirations are architecture, sculpture, nature, strong personality texture, shape. I dream to have the opportunity to acquaint more people with my images and help to express their emotional side.
Tell us about your AW16 collection. What is the concept behind it?
of a moving person which is directly connected with the person’s temperament, emotional spirit and the message of actions. For me, these qualities are natural in the world of fauna - in the flight of birds, in the movements of animals, in the swimming of fish. The wildlife aesthetics with its functionality has found the reflection in the collection: wide surfaces and folds, intended dimensions, the choice of fabrics, the dynamism of silhouettes, organic practicality.
For the expression of my thoughts, I used these sources of inspiration as: 1. Works of the French designer Boris Jean Lacroix 2. Anthroposophic painting 3. Fashion of the 80th 4. Organic architecture 5. Animal color 6. The cinema image of Barbara Streisand, the image of a broad soul full of internal fight in its craving to the ideals.
What does your collection say about yourself, on the professional and personal level? The collection reveals the potential of the brand and demonstrates it with another side. It shows a new form, as an opportunity to change, but remain with the concept of the brand: architectural forms, geometry lines, the combination of different textured fabrics, the search for new tricks and volumes.
How does your workspace look like? I have a small studio,where I create my collection. I have a space for creativity and for cutting and sewing products. I plan to open the showroom in January 2017. I hope it will become a place of contact of dreams and realization. Each client will be able to find a new decision in the clothes, and a new form of a combination of textures.
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Our theme for Autumn 2016 issue is “duality”. Do you notice the duality thing and where? What kind of duality do you most concerned? I am a twin on the zodiac sign. But it helps me to look at my problem from the another side. Every person has a good and an evil. Unfortunately, I meet people who can not understand what is more important for them. They create problems for themselves and for others. It’s very sad. I admire those people who can juggle of their qualities and has moral.
Where do you see your designers career taking Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? you, on a personal level? I want to have an able to realize my own ideas, as I see them and have my shop, which discovers the concept of the brand. And as long as possible to have the desire to be more than just me.
I would like to collaborate with Kelly Wearstler.
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FUR PAUL&JOE / CORSET AGENT PROVOCATEUR / PANTY DIM / ANKLE&CUFFS RESTRAINTS MAISON CLOSE / SHOES FREELANCE
Photographer Nala Luna Stylist Séna Aurélia Makeup Samantha Mandar Hair Sadek L. Hair 242 Model Inès @MarilynAgency
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CATSUIT MAISON CLOSE / BRA CHANTAL THOMASS / JEWELRY PANTY ABSAINTE PARIS / PANTY DIM / EARRINGS ISABELLE MICHEL
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/ JACKET ZADIG&VOLTAIRE / BODY 251PALOMA CASILE / JEWELS ON AURA TOUT VU / BRACELETS ISABELLE MICHEL / SHOES FREELANCE
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/ BRA AGENT PROVOCATEUR / SKIRT MAISON CLOSE / JEWELS ON AURA TOUT VU / SHOES TEXTO
another side Photographer Evgenya Kayumova Model Olsen Style Olga Alt Mua Nigara Garment Khatipova
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MIA SOANA MIA-SOANA.COM NEW LOOK WWW.NEWLOOK.COM KAASKAS KAASKAS.COM OMUT OMUT.JEWELRY OYSHO WWW.OYSHO.COM OLYA KOSTERINA OLYAKOSTERINA.COM PAT GUZIK WWW.PAT-GUZIK.COM PANIZZA WWW.PANIZZA1879.COM PLISSIMA PLISSIMA.COM LAROOM WWW.LAROOM.RU LANVIN WWW.LANVIN.COM VENCOUVERT VENTCOUVERT.COM LAURENCE BOSSION WWW.LAURENCEBOSSION.COM LISA C BIJOUX WWW.LISACBIJOUX.IT LE SARTE PETTEGOLE WWW.LESARTEPETTEGOLE.COM LUCA SCIASCIA WWW.LUCASCIASCIA.COM L72 WWW.L72.EU VALENTINO WWW.VALENTINO.COM VAN HOYDEN FACEBOOK.COM/VANHOYDENCLOTHES VIVIENNE WESTWOOD WWW.VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.COM PARI DESAI WWW.PARIDESAI.COM PAUL&JOE WWW.PAULANDJOE.COM NOA NOA WWW.NOANOAUK.COM NORMA KAMALI WWW.NORMAKAMALI.COM NEW YORKER WWW.NEWYORKER.DE SISTA STUDIO WWW.SISTASTUDIO.COM STUDIO PRETZEL WWW.STUDIOPRETZEL.COM SYLWIA ROCHALA WWW.SYLWIAROCHALA.COM TOPSHOP WWW.TOPSHOP.COM T-SKIRT WWW.TSKIRT.RU TERRANOVA WWW.TERRANOVASTYLE.COM YUMMY GUMMY SHEET LATEX YUMMYGUMMYLATEX.COM URBAN OUTFITTERS WWW.URBANOUTFITTERS.COM WAREHOUSE WWW.WAREHOUSE.CO.UK W2IW WWW.W2IW.COM
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JAMIE ADAMS FERGIE HUGGIE HONEYMOON OIL ON LINEN 2016
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