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MAGAZINE PLEASANT SENSE OF FASHION INJECTION
Photographer Puzzleman Leung Fashion Editor GSPRDN Make up Meg Lu Hair Fran Lin Model Xinju San
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B i b r i e s c C l a i r D e l a n n o C h a r l o t t H a u l o D a n i e l a M a j i D o r S h a r o D u d y D a y a E u g e n i L e v k o v E r i k a F u n G e n e S u n H e l i o L e o J a c e k U r J a k u b R J i v o m i D o m o u s t c h i e J u l i a n n C o s t i g a M a r g a r e W i l l i a m s o B e c h t o l M a r i e G o l u b e v N i c k Q u i n N i c o l a s L F o r e s t i e S a s h a C h a i k S o r c h M c C r o r S i l v i a P o r o p a O l i v i a R u b e n P a r k e T h o r n t o P u z z l e m a L e u n P r i s c i l l T a v e r a X a v i e B e r g m a
a e y e t c n n a a g g n a a r v e n t n d a e e r a a y t s r n n g a s r n
contributors contributors
B e n
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WANDERERS
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Makoto Takahashi
this issue
HARVEST SEASON
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Ben Bibriesca
DRAMAT
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Interview
HOW COULD YOU TELL
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Margaret Williamson Bechtold
ONLY COWGIRLS GET THE BLUES
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Helio Leon
SORCHA MCCRORY
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Interview
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Gene Sung
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Daniela Majic
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Dor Sharon
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Jacek Ura
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Nicolas Le Forestier
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Nick Quine
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Eugenia Levkova
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Jakub Ra
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Erika Fung
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Dudy Dayan
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EVERY MORNING THERE ARE MOUNTAINS TO CLIMB NOWHERE GIRL
DADDY’S LONG VACATION
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DRAFT LICKSTUDIO
FIELDS OF DREAMS DAMA 021YOUTH LANDING
FREEDOM’S SHORE PHILL
PIECES OF ME DORIT
DRAG AND DROP
chapter one
Sasha Chaika
chapter two
this issue
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ALICE AND MULTIMEDIA ART MUSEUM
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ARTS AND CRAFTS
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Silvia Poropat
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Claire Delannoy
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Interview
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Xavier Bergman
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Danni Jeziorska
RAVE/REVE
JIVOMIR DOMOUSTCHIEV LET ME ALONE LAST NIGHT WAS A BLUR
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & FOUNDER Ekaterina Dokuchaeva GRAPHIC DESIGNER Nikita Eliseev EDITORIAL editorial@just-magazine.com ADVERTISING info@just-magazine.com www.just-magazine.com
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editors letter
December 22, 2016 Here we are! Refreshed, tired, bushed and reborn. Actually, this issue is an exploration of contemporary fashion, integration of ordinary and sophisticated stuff, dark and shiny at the same time, merging styles and dimensional misunderstandings. To sit and wait is a twice difficult then to forget yourself with a working fever. And now everything as it supposed to be. We won’t leave you alone this time. Covered by Puzzleman Leung Just Magazine is extremely nice and waiting for the thrilling touch of your eyes and minds. Let the images guide you, turn on some of your favorite rock classics either synthpop or dark wave, and enjoy our Winter’16 issue full of fresh experiences, bold styling and keep looking forward.
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Multimedia Art Museum Photographer Sasha Chaika Stylist Marie Golubeva Make up Prettykukla Model Alisa Rusakova Stylist assistant Dohanh
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SKIRT WALK OF SHAME / TOP ALISA KUZEMBAEVA / SHOES VINTAGE LONDON
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< LEATHER JACKET A.W.A.K.E BLOUSE CHAN KIM EARRING JUSTINE CLENQUET DRESS LES ANIMAUX SHOES MICOL RAGNI
Photographer Makoto Takahashi makototakahashi.com Stylist Yeon You youforeveryeon.com Make Eri Kaneda erikaneda.com Hair Takao Hayashi takaohayashihair.com Model BARBARA M @Premier Model Management
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GREEN JACKET CHAN KIM / TRACK BOTTOM CHANCE CHANCE EARRINGS JUSTINE CLENQUET / SHOES MICOL RAGNI TULE SKIRT LES ANIMAUX / HOODIE XANDER ZHOU
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EARRINGS FRECKLE LONDON TOP CHAN KIM RUBBER SLEEVE & SILVER SHOES LES ANIMAUX LEATHER TROUSERS A.W.A.K.E
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Model: Elena Mudd,@elenamudd Photographer: Ben Bibriesca, @benbibriesca All Clothing: The Hunted NYC @thehuntednyc
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INTERVIEW
DRAMAT 52
Dramat is created by Daria Juel and Marlena Vader based in Warszawa (Poland) social media: @dramatdramat facebook.com/dramateurope/ www.dramat.net
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Tell us briefly about the brand. Who is behind bo Gallery in Warsaw, the main theme was a ‘Guilty it, how you discovered an interest in clothing Pleasure’. We’ve made a triptych with a big, crystal techno-tribal in the middle. This led us to continue design and why you called it Dramat? Dramat was created as an art project, we did sentimental photos with selfmade scenography, costumes, stories. Our first collection called ‘Bogurodzica’ (‘Mother of God’) was inspired by first polish national anthem. It was natural for us to continue the project as a duo. We have known each other from School of Costume and Design in Warsaw.
this theme in the collection. All the clothes from ‘Final Fantasy’ were handmade-decorated with the crystals. The choice of forms and execution - it was all in our hands. This is truely important for us to have an control from the start to the end of each project. Now we know that It is a right direction; we’ve learned a lot about the fabrics and textile structures.
What are the greatest and shittiest aspects What is the concept behind your latest collection about your career as a designer? and how do you see your designs evolving? Our last collection called ‘Final Fantasy’ was inspired by early 2000s, tribal tattoos, techno and our memories and vision of Poland of those years. We were asked to create an object installation for Tur-
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This is a great pleasure for us to design, to create a forms, to choose a fabrics, but the moments, when your work is appreciated gives us an actual satisfaction. Paradoxically, it’s hard to choose the shittiest aspects, even if sometimes things goes quite shitty.
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The collections of Dramat are slightly insane it is really important to be true. Dramat is based on and always very impressive. What are your unfettered truth about the closest environment, we prefer to observe than to pretend. ‘Final Fantasy’ is main inspirations? Thank you very much, we are very pleased to read it. We don’t try to search of inspiration artificially; all of them comes from the immediate surroundings and
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a good example of this method. Working on the upcoming collection called ‘True Lover’ we are inspired by the personal vision of 80s and love.
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What is the most memorable moment since you have started your art project? Our first cover for sure! We mean - our clothes on the cover of polish fashion magazine. The whole editorial was created by top polish artists and models.
How does your cultural environment influence your way of working? What is the most difficult or challenging aspect of being a fashion designer in 2016? There are more and more young designers, trends are changing faster and faster but we try to ignore it and do our job. Fashion in the world is really emancipated; no one is shocked by the vision of men wearing femaleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothes. Unfortunately, in our country, our projects are considered to be strange and non-sales.
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What fascinates you about the art world today? By the way, who are your favorite designers, if any. Our latest inspirations comes from the environment. Raf Simons is definitely the one, the aesthetics is very close to us. His first collections and the way of presentation are a big inspiration for todays streetwear fashion (he worked with a people from the street instead of proffesional models)
What are your plans for Winter 2016-17? How do you feel about this season in general? We’re working on new collection called ‘True Lover’, inspired by 80s. This is a little ‘erotic-romantic’ stuff with east-european sense of taste, cool light, sensual music and classical fabrics. We’re focused on classic cuts and forms, a little modernized, but still mixed with basics.
Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? We have worked already with some polish photographers and visual artits we always wanted. Thinking about foreign artists, we adore Nicolas Coulomb and Florence Tetier.
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What upcoming projects we can expect to see from you? New editorials and publications are in the pipeline, stay tuned.
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Photographer – Parker Thornton @parker.thornton Stylist – Margaret Williamson Bechtold margaretbechtold.com Hair & Makeup – Jamie Rivera @bbjam Model – Melissa Taylor @ MAZZA @melissaanntaylor
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CROP TOP NICHOLAS BLOUSE VILSHENKO TROUSERS CREATURES OF COMFORT
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Sorcha McCrory is a womenswear designer based in London. Mostly concerned with themes of gender, she explores notions of sexuality and gender roles throughout her work.
Photographer Cherry Au Stylist Sophia Stewart
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Tell us briefly about the brand and your history as a creative. How did you discover an interest in fashion design? I’m a womenswear designer based in London, I specialize in appliqué and my work is mainly concerned with themes of gender and gender roles. I grew up with a keen understanding of fine art and literature thanks to my parents, my dad is an illustrator and my mother is an author, so creativity has always been a fundamental presence in my life since day one. I think I’d always taken an interest in fashion, I’m not sure when it became a serious pursuit? I was just good with my hands, I could put things together and manipulate fabric and it worked, I guess the obsession grew from that.
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What fascinates you about the art world today Seems your designs takes the fashion on the and where do you find your inspirations? new and bold level. Tell us about the combination of whore and holy in your work. I’m quite fascinated with how art can now exist entirely online. It can be created and curated entirely on an instagram account, for example. I think the whole movement of social media as art is really interesting. I take my inspiration from a lot of what is being produced by these kinds of artists. I’m so heavily influenced by current conversations of gender, how it is being redefined, but I also look to historical perceptions of gender, I use a lot of fine art, portraits of nobility, religious tableaux etc. In one project I can look at the Assumption of the Virgin by Titian, but also Rupi Kaur’s instagram.
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Because I deal with gender, and representation of women, I want to look at both sides of the sword, the polar opposites of female sexuality. My mother is of an Irish Catholic background, and although she isn’t a practicing catholic, it is a huge part of her identity, so I grew up surrounded by religious iconography. I was always interested in the woman’s place within religion. I compare and contrast whore and holy because in both examples the women have no agency, their sexuality has been decided for them based on a male interpretation of what is acceptable.
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We’re so impressed with your Sacred Hearts and Private Parts collection. What is the concept behind it? Thank you! For Sacred Hearts and Private Parts I looked quite specifically at the male gaze and it’s impact on female sexuality, from strippers to saints. The whole thing was a tongue in cheek nod to the objectification of women, weather they’ve been put on a pedestal or a pole. It was driven quite heavily by hyper-femininity as well, as I was basically playing dress up with an archaic notion of gender.
THE COLLECTION AIMED TO RECLAIM THE FEMALE FORM FOR THE FEMALE GAZE, AND THE REALITY OF WOMEN - BE THEY WHORE, OR BE THEY HOLY, AND TO JUST HAVE A LITTLE FUN WITH AN EXAGGERATED PORTRAYAL OF 'FEMININE' AND 'SEXY'. 93
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Which particular work are you most proud of and why? I think visually, the bomber is the most impressive piece. I was proud of myself for maintaining a functional element to it (the heart piece detaches from the coat and can be turned into a bag), but I’m probably most proud of the breast power mesh top. The breasts are mine, the photograph was
taken after a trip to the pub, a little drunk, and it was made in response to my university refusing bare female breasts in the graduate show. It was just equal parts hilarious and freeing to have my own breasts plastered across tops and computer screens and sketchbooks. It’s a garment that has it’s own backstory; it’s a protest piece.
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Are women always wanted to be treat- What are your plans for Winter 2016ed as sexual objects? To be attractive in 17? How do you feel about this season a sexual way is very substantial. What in general? do you think? At the moment I’m just working and figI’m not sure anybody wants to be treated as an object. There is a power in reclaiming sexuality, but it isn’t done for any body else’s pleasure. It’s so important for women to recognize themselves as sexual beings, with agency over their bodies, and to take pleasure in that. But it’s also important for women to recognize they are so much more than a body. They are strong and powerful and have so much to offer, if their worth is tied entirely to their appearance? That’s a little troubling.
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uring out my place in the fashion industry. It’s so difficult for young designers in London currently, I was stone cold broke by the time I finished my degree I had to take some time away from my own work, I just couldn’t afford to keep doing it. I’m in my first year post grad, and that’s always a little bleak, but I believe the next couple of years will be exciting for my contemporaries and myself. The fashion system is changing and we get to play a part in that.
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What concepts will you be exploring through your work next? Which artists, designers or photographers would you like to collaborate with? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m really interested in exploring non-binary gender. Is it possible to dress it? Can we separate the gendered and sexed body in fashion? In the near future I hope to collaborate with my good friend and a talented menswear designer, Joely Walford. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d also love to do something with someone like Rupi Kaur, Celeste Mountjoy or even @ lookatthispussy. The work they produce and their personal use of instagram, just defies the censorship of women and the vitriolic language used against them online. Look at this pussy is an entire instagram account dedicated to vaginas, a space where female anatomy is considered offensive. I think thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s utterly brilliant.
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Photography & Styling by Daniela Majic www.danielamajicphotography.com Model | Reau @ Elite Make-up & Hair by Jilly Ijoe
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TROUSERS BY KITTON TOP BY GRYPHON NEW YORK SHOES CONVERSE BLACK BLAZER IS TORY BURCH
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Model Omer Goldman Styling Amit Shahar MUAH Karen Avidar Photographers: Ella Barak, Dor Sharon Art Director Dor Sharon
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DRAFT photographer Jacek Ura style Joanna Wolff models Justyna Rusnak and Karina Smirnova hair Magda Dukat make up Karolina Supernak fashion designers: Magdalena Orzeł, Anna Załucka - Kuczera, Aleksandra Jendryka, MODELOVE, Klaudia Bartmańska, Dagna Krzystanek.
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INTERVIEW
LICKSTUDIO LI C K ST UDIO IS A C LOTHI N G LI N E , PRES ERVED T H E F L U I D I T Y O F O U R S O C I E T Y. LOC AT ED IN NORT H J AK ARTA, I N DO N ES I A
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Tell us briefly about the brand. Who is in fashion and we would like to participate in behind it and how did you discover an the changing era of fashion and to discover more interesting concepts to be applied in interest in fashion design? LICKSTUDIO is a fashion brand originated from Indonesia and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a platform: for us to display our ideas of fashion and deliver it to the society. It was founded by two of us, Juliana Ng and Laurensia Salim, former classmates at Raffles College of Higher Education in Singapore. We discovered an interest in fashion design because we enjoy the growth
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fashion.
What is the key idea behind your SS17 collection? The key idea behind our SS17 collection is to have a fresh start by exploring different styles with playful spirit that we hope is still new in our country.
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What is the most difficult or challenging aspect of your career as a designer? The most challenging part is to look for the perfect production team that could fulfill our desire. We studied and interned in Singapore, and when we came back to Indonesia, we knew nothing about fashion ideas in Indonesia and the people who are involved in fashion in Jakarta. We were lost at first, in regards to finding the good production and sources, but eventually we started to get the hang of it. We also think that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s challenging for us to keep them on track with what we desire.
Which particular work are you most proud of and why? Our pre-order collection is our pride because for that collection, we poured our most creative ideas that we thought was not saleable at first, especially in Indonesia, but surprisingly it was the most popular collection borrowed and purchased among both stylists and customers. This also shows that the customers in our country could accept our ideas.
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What are your plans for Winter 2016-17? Since we are located in South East Asia, there’s no winter, so we are working on our fabrication and layering so that our customers could wear it both in Autumn and Summer in South East Asia. How do you feel about this season in general? We feel that this season is quite interesting but most of the collections somehow gave us similar vibes and feelings so there’s not much diversity in the designs. Sadly, we feel our collection also give out those same impression therefore we are trying our best to deliver a fresher concept in our next collection.
How would you like to see your career as a designer evolving in future? We haven’t thought about that yet but we hope that we could bring our brand globally and as designers, we would like to be able to explore different methods and concepts in production.
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Where do you find your inspirations? Everywhere and whenever. Especially through songs, movies, artworks, trips, people, or anything that we find interesting and pretty.
Have any particular designers influenced your work recently? Massimo Giorgetti! And we adore Toga Archives because of everything they do, they do it so beautifully and looks right. Even though they make various styles, all designs still scream ‘I am Toga’!
What concepts will you be exploring through your work next? Currently, we are still working on our next project and we would like to do certain collaboration for the designs to give off better essence and aura.
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Which artists, designers or photographers would you like to collaborate with? We’d love to work with Ren Hang, a photographer from Hong Kong! We are dying to work with him and hopefully we could in the future. In addition, we also admire the works of Petra F Collins! The colour creations of her photographs are so beautiful and to be able to collaborate with her is definitely in our bucket list.
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s d l fie s m a e r d f o photography Nicolas Le Forestier nicolasleforestier.net stylist Sophie Ostrowska theparisiansite.com makeup Isis Moenne-loccoz @isismoenne model Chloe Francois @karin models Paris
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TOP AND PANTS CORALIE MARABELLE
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TOP AND PANTS CORALIE MARABELLE
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JACKET CORALIE MARABELLE JEANS SIDE PROJECT PARIS SHOES VINTAGE / CAP ZARA
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DRESS JONATHAN LIANG COAT SIDE PROJECT PARIS SHOES VINTAGE
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DRESS JONATHAN LIANG SHIRT SIDE PROJECT PARIS CAP H&M SHOES VINTAGE
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BOMBER, SHIRT AND SKIRT - JONATHAN LIANG
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INTERVIEW
DAMA, founded by Priscilla Taveras, is a Miami based womenswear label, focused on producing unconventional, unique, minimalist inspired clothing with an urban edge.
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Tell us briefly about the brand. Who is behind it and how it all happened. By the way, what does the brand name mean? DAMA, founded by Priscilla Taveras, is a Miami based womenswear label, focused on producing unconventional, unique, minimalist inspired clothing with an urban edge. Although I have no formal training, I have always had a passion and drive for fashion and desired to make a place for myself in the industry. Originally I was limited in my knowledge of what goes into producing a brand, and was intimidated by the responsibility it would take to achieve my dreams. However, I could not be stopped. I feel like the catalyst for starting the brand was discovering the real story of who my father was and where the other half of myself originated from. Growing up in the Bronx, I often felt alone. With only my mother to raise me, I was always amazed by her youthful spirit and her incredible wardrobe. I would always sneak into her closet when she left for work, and just stare at
her clothes and touch the fabrics. Everything ranging from school, to work, to relationships, to life changes – I struggled with many twists and turns to finally become more a confident woman … Yet, it still felt like something was missing. Within the past year, I recently came to learn that my father was killed when I was an infant as part of the violent Colombia to NYC cocaine trade in the late 80s. I made a visit to Colombia to his grave after decades of never knowing his real name or who my family was on my father’s side. It turns out that, I have this whole other family I had never met before. Having that closure in my life made me realize how precious time is, and I couldn’t let my dreams fall away. It was at that point I started DAMA. DAMA, meaning “woman” in Spanish, allows me to express the confidence and sensuality I had wanted when growing up, often overshadowed by insecurity and fear. Through my lens, there is a DAMA woman in all of us. An edgy, sexy woman who knows what she wants from life.
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What is the concept behind the Spring-Summer 2017 collection? For SS17, the concept was about manipulating traditionally feminine silhouettes. This is evident in the untraditional use of pleats, grommets and inlaid hardware; combined with softer and more feminine fabrics. I was really inspired by Japanese Sukeban girl gangs who were deconstructing their traditional school uniforms to break the stereotype of how other school girls were dressing. Within their uniforms, they would also conceal their weapons and I really wanted to bring that to light with the use of hardware throughout the collection. Despite their criminal activity, what stood out to me was their unity and their courage to stand up to their male counter parts.
You’re positioning the brand as unconventional. What’s the point? Living in Miami, where fashion exemplifies swimwear, colorful womenswear, and traditionally more feminine clothing – it is important for me to set myself apart. I’m positioning the brand as unconventional because we aren’t trying to design clothing that is hyper-feminine. Some of the clothing is revealing --- but it is a controlled and restrained sensuality.
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The SS17 collection is really impressing, looks both elegant and casual. What techniques and materials did you use for the collection and why? Given that this was my first collection; I was very conservative with the amounts of different fabrics I used. Because of this, I was able to be more creative with the construction of each garment. I played with shapes and structure. I cut out certain parts of each garment, which you will notice in our Sessilee blazer or Syd bralette. I also added internal boning and horse hair, defining more structure and intricacy. It was interesting to use these materials under different circumstances than what they are traditionally used for.
What are your main inspirations, and how do you see your designs evolving? I am often inspired by all sights, sounds and senses, but find myself intensively creative through subcultures and watching old films. It always has to be something that deeply touches me and the process cannot be rushed.
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How does your cultural environment influence your way of working? Is Miami a good place for clothing designs? Similar experiences during the environment I grew up in at a young age, are relatable to the point of my life where I’m at now, where Miami has been built on the drug trade of the 1980s. We can still observe the indulgence and glamour from that era here today, which then evolved into the minimalism and grit of the early 90’s. For designers in Miami, there are limitations in terms of talent and resources compared to NYC or LA, but I have been really blessed to find an amazing team for DAMA. Hopefully Miami continues to expand its fashion services and talent pool.
What are your plans for Winter 2016-17? How do you feel about this season in general? For AW17 you will see the brand evolving as I use more color and introduce new textiles. The new collection will also be more daring and suggestive, without having to reveal much of the body. In general, I feel excited about the Fall-Winter season. In Miami, we don’t often feel the change of seasons. For us, it’s nice to be able to design more pieces that are interchangeable, and that can be layered.
Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? Sharna Osborne, for her VHS quality fashion films. Caroline Denervaud is a talented artist whom I admire for how she films herself making art. Jamie-Maree Shipton, for her styling and creative direction.
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021YOUTH Photography by Nick Quine Casting by Fani Segerman Featuring Mziyanda, Aviwe, Buck, Kirsten, Sasha, Theo, Azuli and Alice. Thanks: Mike Michaelson, Louise, Paul Madelaine and all the models. All photos shot in South Africa. Instagram: @nickquine Website: www.nickquine.com
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Instagram:@youngfanisun
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LANDING
THE LAST DAYS OF TEL AVIV AIRPORT BY DOR SHARON
I NTE RVI E W AN
AR T IST-PHOTO G RAPHER AN D G ALLERY OWNER ( BI N YAM I N ) I N TEL AVI V
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EXHIBITIONS: 2013 ORGANIZED AND PARTICIPATED IN GROUP EXHIBITION “NAPOLEON”, YAFFA 2014 ORGANIZED AND PARTICIPATE IN “GROUP EXHIBITION -COME IN PEACE” AT MY TORO GALLERY, HAMBURG ORGANIZED AND PARTICIPATE IN “GROUP EXHIBITION” FOR KARUSSEL SUMMER FESTIVAL , HAMBURG PARTICIPATE IN “GROUP EXHIBITIONPTITIM” AT GABIROL . TEL AVIV 2015 PARTICIPATE IN “GROUP EXHIBITION EMIGRATE/IMMIGRATE» -AT CIRCLE1 .BERLIN PARTICIPATE IN “GROUP EXHIBITIONFLORA PALASETINA” AT MUSRARA SCHOOL JERUSALEM, 2016 PARTICIPATE IN “GROUP EXHIBITIONSPLIT ENDS « AT BINYAMIN GALLERY , TEL AVIV PARTICIPATE IN “GROUP EXHIBITION SHOW-ROOM 3 « AT INGA GALLERY OF CONTEMPORARY ART ,TEL AVIV. CURATOR “GROUP EXHIBITIONWHITE « AT BINYAMIN GALLERY , TEL AVIV. CURATOR “GROUP EXHIBITIONSLALOM « AT BINYAMIN GALLERY , TEL AVIV.
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Tell us a bit about yourself and how you discovered your interest in photography? ..I’ve always had this attraction towards Aesthetics, but until I started my art studies, I couldn’t find a place to express that. At the end of my first year of studies I bought a second hand Olympus and since then I haven’t stopped purchasing old cameras. I’m in love with the mechanics.
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How can you describe your own photography style? Old photography attracts me, the lack of sharpness that identifies with depth. Intimate photographs that creates pieces of reality.
What emotions are most present in your work and why do you choose to portray them? I believe in the tension that is created between people on set. It motivates everyone to create passionately and to strive for a surprising outcome.
What is the most important in photography for you and what are your main inspirations? The model in front of me is an important part of my photography. Just as I view myself as an artist, I want my model to be one too - two artists facing each other without words. I chose photography as a means to express myself and I expect my model to do the same in his own way. As an artist born in front of the screen, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to build a unique identity, as my sources of inspiration are often shared by my contemporaries.
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What has been your biggest achievement so far?
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I have showcased my work in Berlin, a project about German and Israeli heritage. My grandfather was born in Berlin and escaped to Israel during WWII - which is why it was so important to me to present to a German audience. Another project I am proud of is the Radical Beauty Project תin which the subjects have Down Syndrome. It’s an art magazine that challenges our understanding of beauty and its boundaries in our world today.
How does your cultural environment influence your way of working? As far as I am concerned, Israeli culture is very thin. The photography in Israel pales in comparison to Europe and is getting more pop-oriented as time goes by. Fashion companies spend their money on new media, i.e. social networks, and there is no attempt to create anything new. The most creative photographers express their art outside of Israel, mostly in Europe and the US.
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What qualities do you look for and/or admire in the people you work with? I find it difficult to work with indifferent people, because I am one myself. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell what they are feeling and this causes discomfort on set. This is why I choose emotional team members that balance me out.
Which artists, designers or models would you like to collaborate with? I would love to assist Michal Chelbin on a photoshoot. Her photography is realistic and surreal at the same time. The realism stems from the subject, which exists in a surreal situation - and whose presence makes the situation realistic. It is cinematic, but Michalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actors play themselves by re-positioning the photographer. The spontaneous is the most beautiful thing that can appear in a picture, but nothing in art appears less spontaneously than that. Wall, Jeff.
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What are your plans for Winter? How do you feel about this season in general? I live in the Middle East, which has a very specific quality of light - everything gets washed out. That’s why winter in Israel is short but perfectly suited to shooting outside. It’s cloudy but rarely rainy.
What upcoming projects can we expect to see from you? My next art project is creating army fatigues with an emblem of anemones. These flowers bloom around the Gaza strip every year - it’s a common red flower in the Middle East, and it is so interesting to see the juxtaposition of it against the tanks, fences and army bases, making everything seem jarringly pastoral. I assume that one day a major war will break out and the battlefield will be a surreal scene of a red, flowering field. In addition, I am working a fashion project with a very successful designer, Eliran Nargassi. In this project I imagine a refugee arriving on a beach in the Middle East. The way I see it, when you hit rock bottom, the only thing that remains of your humanity is the shirt on your back, and so, when I imagine being expelled from my home, I leave wearing my most beautiful garments. being expelled from my home, I leave wearing my most beautiful garments.
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Photographer: Eugenia Levkova MUAH, style & art director: Vlasta Guryeva Model: Maria @i-model Wardrobe credits: All wardrobe vintage. Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own.
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HIL
photographer, casting Jakub Ra model Phill La Noiraude all clothes are from second hands or vintage
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GENDER-FLUID X HUMAN TOUCH FUCKING HORNY DECONSTRUCT
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PIECES OF ME PIECES OF ME Photographer: Trio Studio Stylist: Julianne Costigan and Olivia Rubens Designer: Olivia Rubens Makeup Artist: Christina Nguyen Hair Stylist: Erika Fung www.erikafung.com Hair Assistant: Ronald Lam Model: Crystal Tang Clothing: Olivia Rubens
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DORIT 238
Clothing: StreetWise Vintage TLV, h&m, Zara, Renuar
Photography by Dudy Dayan @dudydayan Model Dorit Revelis for Roberto models @dorit_revelis @robertomodels Styled by Hila Gerby @hilagerby Hair by Shalom Sharon @shalomsharon Make up Shiko Vuv @shikovun_ makup
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INTERVIEW
YOU DON’T HAVE TO WEAR FAMOUS BRANDS IN ORDER TO STAND OUT. TODAY’S FASHION IS MADE ON THE STREETS. WHAT YOU WEAR IS A REFLECTION OF YOUR INDEPENDENCE. BE UNIQUE WHILE WALKING AROUND THE CITY, AT A PARTY, OR IN A LOVER’S BEDROOM. COMBINE THE INCOMPATIBLE, MIX STYLES, DO WHATEVER YOU DESIRE. DRAG & DROP IS NOT ABOUT LOVING OTHERS. DRAG & DROP IS ABOUT THE FREEDOM YOU FEEL WITHIN.
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A WOMAN IS
DUALISTIC BY NATURE
Tell us briefly about the brand and your history as a creative. How did you discover an interest in fashion design? Anya studied at the Odessa School of Fine Arts and then continued her studies at a specialist dressmaking school, so not only does she design our samples, she sews some of them as well. Regarding myself, ever since I was in school I found it difficult to find clothes that I liked in the shops, so I would resort to a tailor to create distinctive pieces for me. After we purchased a sewing machine, however, all of our issues were resolved. When we launched D&D there was no going back- our friend supported us, the world came together, and our path became clear.
What fascinates you about the art world today and where do you find your inspirations? The evolving art world is the main impetus behind our designs and constantly inspires us to develop new ideas. We are influenced by many aspects of everyday life, cinema, music, and life scenes. It could be anything; there are no limits- one of our neighbours or a passer-by, an image from the web, a curtain shop, a random Soviet movie or vintage items.
Tell us about the combination of the feminist attitude and romantic mood in your debut collection. What is the concept behind it? What materials did you use and why? A woman is dualistic by nature. Today she loves, tomorrow she hates. Our clothes say a lot about ourselves and who we are, and enable us to define our character and form our style arbitrarily. We use materials which are not of traditional taste but with a sporty, more casual fit.
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Your garments seem to successfully combine luxury and sportswear as well as express freedom and independence. Which piece are you most proud of? I personally love the first dress made of beige velour with hockey lace, it sets the tone for the whole collection. Anya loves the black lace suit.
What is the most challenging aspect of being a designer in 2016? No difficulties - only aspirations.
Tell us about your video campaign. Were there any interesting facts about the creative process or any discouraging incidents? Our video was shot in 36 hours, as the rental equipment was quite expensive, and we were working with a tight budget. I do remember one occasion being on the road at dawn rushing to get to our next shooting location at the Kyiv Sea, in a car full to the brim with clothes and filming equipment. After 12 hours of non-stop shooting we were all very tired, and ended up being stopped at a police check-point. And just to my luck, I had forgotten my driving license! It was all very scary, however after a brief interrogation the policeman realised that we were on an important mission, and allowed us to carry on.
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What are your plans for winter? How do you feel about this season in general? We would like to have a winter collection inspired by Odessa, where we will take you on a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;tripâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; to our hometown through our use of colours, style and detailing.
Which artists, designers or photographers would you like to collaborate with? We want to collaborate with talented and cool local people.
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Photographer Silvia Poropat Stylists & Art Directors Juliet Pietrocola Mua & Hairstylist Simona Parrella Models Phillipa @Independent Model Management Franรงois @Independent Model Management
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TOP & SKIRT STEFANIA V / BELT SOPHIA T / SHOES MARCO
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DRESS STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OWN / SOCKS CALZEDONIA / SHOES KURT GEIGER
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EST EP A N IA V / V SH IRT ST EFA N EL SH O ES C H
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SI LO N / SK
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BLOUSE H&M / SKIRT ZARA / KNIT WEAR H&M / TIGHTS CALZEDONIA
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SHIRT ASOS / TROUSERS MASSIMO DUTTI / EMBROIDERIES MARO G DESIGN
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BOMBERS JACKET WEEKDAY / BRA H&M / TIGHTS ASOS / TROUSER MANGO / SHOES VANS
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RAVE // REVE
A story dream
between and rave
Photographer : Claire Delannoy www.clairedelannoy.com Stylist : Charlotte Haulot Hair and make-up : Laurie Le Felic Model : Maryna@mademoiselleagency275 paris
JEAN ENSEMBLE FOREVER 21 / VINTAGE HAT RICARD / STOCKER ZARA
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CULOTTE CALVIN KLEIN / TIGHTS ASOS
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SWEAT TEALER / CULOTTE CALVIN KLEIN / TIGHTS ASOS
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BOMBERS JACKET WEEKDAY / BRA H&M / TIGHTS ASOS / TROUSER MANGO / SHOES VANS
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interview
Originally from Bulgaria and raised in London, JIVOMIR DOMOUSTCHIEV began his fashion career graduating from London College of Fashion. Continuing his career as a Fashion Stylist and Creative Director, Jivomir worked as Fashion Editor at Centerfold, A Magazine, Touch and Wig, and currently Infringe Magazine.â&#x20AC;¨ He has also styled extensively for both music, fashion and commercial clients all over the world.
JIVOMIR DOMOUSTCHIEV AW 16 LOOKBOOK CREDITS photography Panos Damaskinidis fashion Jivomir Domoustchiev makeup Pat Mascolo hair Akos Bodi model Beate @Profile model manegement
ALL LOOKS AVAILABLE TO ORDER: WWW.JIVOMIRDOMOUSTCHIEV.COM
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DOMOUSTCHIEV
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Photography: Heath Grout www.heathgrout.com Styling: Jiv D www.jivd.co.uk Creative: Max Goodwin Lighting Director: Jon Ervin Hair : Drew Schaefering for Cruxe Makeup: Blair Jaffer Model: Taylor Greene @ NY Models Video: Kyle Sather Video Editing: AL Media Shot on location @ Shio Studio, Brooklyn NY
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All pvc sculpted fashion by Jivomir Domoustchiev a/w 2016 available to order. www.jivomirdomoustchiev.com
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Tell us briefly about yourself and your history generation. Simultaneously I decided to continue my as a creative. How did you discover an interest fashion design course as a full degree at LCF . So that was the beginning.. I had a part time job at Hyper Hyin fashion design? I was born in Bulgaria yet moved to London as a child in the mid 80’s along with my family…Its funny, looking really far back I actually started wanting to go into car design. I was very young then but was obsessed with form, classic car design of the 50’s – to early 70’s but at the same time I loved looking at images of concept cars of the future then designing, drawing my own… the irony was I could never draw the classics but for sure I did great futuristic looking ones.. Well I grew out of that as I realized the reality wasn’t just doing drawing but studying a lot of math’s and physics… Then my passion moved onto photography… when I ended up at a foundation course in fashion at LCF.. But I quickly realized I wanted to influence the overall content of a photograph and ended up in styling… never really wanting to learn the full technical side of photography… this was before the point and shoot
per if anyone remembers the brilliance of that store… where I ended up as assistant designer to the label I was selling for.. Good times.. But over the years most of my time was spent styling both for music, fashion and commercial.
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Seems your designs helped to make a lot of amazing pics with great photographers. Which particular work are you most proud of and why? Oh, I have been very lucky in that a lot of amazing photographers have already photographed my work.. I mean Nick Knight for Garage mag… wow I watched him shoot my cloths live on the internet .. So amazing . I don’t think I was breathing when he was shooting.. and recently I was invited on set with Emma Summerton.. just to watch her work was incredible.. Such a humble visionary, her photographs are like paintings.... but the most amazing so far has been undoubtedly when I was invited on set of Vogue Italia by Patti Wilson who commissioned a number of pieces she was considering using for a shoot with Steven Klein… I flew to New York for this and I was on set with a dream team… First Vogue.. you can never forget that moment.. since I have done some more projects with Patti & Steven and again unbelievable experiences.. You know
as a stylist for 20 years you can still be overwhelmed onset especially by the greats…
Tell us about your latest collection. How your designs evolved since you first started? Well my current collection aw16 evolved when I was asked to create show for one of my styling clients TIGI. We were to do a huge show with over 180 looks for them in Vegas.. the whole finally I would make and it began there really.. the closing of the show involved 24 models which when I came across the material I am currently using it just made since that that should be the look..
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What fascinates you about the art world today the memory of stunning images I have come across… I and where do you find your inspirations? am really fascinated by witnessing the vision of a great The irony is I guess that I love the fact that in art there are so many people expressing their visions; in whichever medium they choose to use. So much variety . I think you can find beauty or something you like in a lot of peoples work… I like to see as much as possible of what is going on creatively in the world, I am constantly researching…but I am really obsessed with photography, fashion photography… I think this is what moves me a lot.. Even though so much is created recently with so many publications and endless viewers and particularly the power of social media.. To show so much so quickly… I have a great visual memory and can enjoy being moved many times by
photographer realized into something that can last forever… You experience a fashion moment when on set when everything comes together into something magical.. This mixed in with life experiences.. The ss17 collection I’m working on at the moment is actually incredibly personal to me.. It is based on Mardi Gras Indians of New Orleans.. This is my happy place, where I visit a lot to enjoy the culture and magic it defends… after many years of trying to meet some of the Black Indian chiefs, I recently met someone who truly inspired me with there openness, kindness and there life experience.. I hope one day to be able to spend more time with them so I may help them make their costumes.
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What do you think, is fashion education really plans for summer? How do you feel about this substantial to become a famous designer? season in general? Depends what you call education.. for sure you need a lot of experience and by working with a lot of different people you learn a lot… education comes from all around us from experimenting and doing.. look at me it has taken many year since graduating to launch my own line.. as for collage.. sure if your focused, it great time to experiment.. but the system can break you , you have to be strong.. Tutors have too many students so no time to nurcher.. don’t take me as an example but my last year at collage I only went in a few times.. then they let me close the show.. but I was already working within the industry and that was more important to me…
What is the most difficult of challenging aspect of being a designer in 2016? What are your
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I’m not scared of competition, but the industry is over saturated.. Everybody fighting over the same recognition.. financial support, stage.. you can always find a way, but support both financial and moral is essential.. I keep working as a stylist because I love it but also so I can fund my design.. ss17 is about to launch and I love what I have done .. lets see what the response is yet if you worry too much about that you will never create purely….
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What concepts will you be exploring through thing where I create from scratch… something really your work next? Any strategy plan involved? special.. personal.. actually any collaboration where
As earlier just bigger and better. My motto’s are “neverstopcreating” and “reimagineverything” also I really hope to do justice to my main inspiration for ss17 collection the Mardi Gras Indian craft. Certain elements I wanted to add I just saw someone else do so I have to change some details.. but that is normal… I think a lot of designers tap into a collective consciousness by being influenced by similar things so…
Which artists, designers or photographers would you like to collaborate with? Well fashion photographers I have said before I absolutely love so Nick Knight ofcourse…but some-
there are no restrictions.. also I love fashion illustration and I keep meaning to approach Alina Zamanova.. fantastic work.. Popovy Sisters are incredible in there meticulous vision…its just making the time…but really project come and with every opportunity you have to engulf yourself into it and allow for you inner creativity to materialize….. I have learnt so much from collaborating with stylist Patti Wilson, such a visionary.. she could see where I was heading with my design and pushed for me to create what I believed.. From collaborations magic can happen.. creative release is intoxicating….
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LET ME ALONE
Photographer: Xavier Bergman Stylist & Art Director: Danae Fischer Make-up & Hair Stylist: Maryam Blanco Model: Nora Vara @ View (www. viewmanagement.com) Production: Fruits & Films (www.fruitsandfilms. com)
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KNIT ESCORPION BODY ANDRÉS SARDÁ RING GUCCI
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BODY ANDRÉS SARDÁ UNDERWEAR ANDRÉS SARDÁ
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TOP ANDRÉS SARDÁ OVERALLS G-STAR
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COAT ESCORPION SKIRT TORRAS
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COAT CUSTO BARCELONA TOP&SKIRT WOM&NOW SHOES MISSONI
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LAST NIGHT WAS A BLUR Photographer Danni Jeziorska @danni_jeziorska Stylist Jilian Banjoko @jillyjilbird Make-up Julia Edwards @juliaedwardsmakeup Hair Aieasha Paul @aieashadoeshair Make-up assistant Caterina Mannarino @caterinamannarino_mua Models Taii Gordon - Premier Models Victoria Bembnowicz - First Models @taiitaiigordon @victoriabembnowicz Location Aces and Eights Saloon Bara
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TAII DRESS: ASHLEY ISHAM BOOTS: ASOS VICTORIA JUMPSUIT: ASHLEY ISHAM SHOES: STYLISTS OWN EARRING: MAYU ACCESSORIES
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COAT SOPHIE CULL CANDY SHIRT RUN / BAG SKINNY DIP LONDON
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JUMPSUIT JULIA CLANCEY / NECKLACE MAYU ACCESSORIES JACKET JAYNE PIERSON
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AMERICAN APAREL STORE.AMERICANAPPAREL.NET AMÃ&#x2030;LIE PICHARD AMELIEPICHARD.COM ALL SAINTS WWW.ALLSAINTS.COM ASOS WWW.ASOS.COM ALEXANDER WANG WWW.ALEXANDERWANG.COM BRIAN ATWOOD WWW.BRIANATWOOD.COM CALVIN KLEIN WWW.CALVINKLEIN.US CALZEDONIA CALZEDONIA.COM CARVEN WWW.CARVEN.COM CONVERSE WWW.CONVERSE.COM CORALIE MARABELLE WWW.CORALIEMARABELLE.COM CHLOE WWW.CHLOE.COM DR. MARTENS WWW.DRMARTENS.COM ESCADA WWW.ESCADA.COM ESCORPION ESCORPION.COM EDYTA PIETRZYK EDYTAPIETRZYK-SHOP.COM GIANVITO ROSSI WWW.GIANVITOROSSI.COM GIVENCHY WWW.GIVENCHY.COM GUCCI WWW.GUCCI.COM HAKANAKKAYA WWW.HAKANAKKAYA.COM H&M WWW.HM.COM IVORIES WWW.IVORIES.IT IRON FIST WWW.IRONFISTCLOTHING.COM JESSICA SIMPSON WWW.JESSICASIMPSON.COM JONATHAN LIANG WWW.JONATHAN-LIANG.COM KURT GEIGERWWW.KURTGEIGER.COM THE KOOPLES WWW.THEKOOPLES.COM MANGO SHOP.MANGO.COM MARNI WWW.MARNI.COM MASSIMO DUTTI WWW.MASSIMODUTTI.COM MAX&CO WORLD.MAXANDCO.COM MOSCHINO WWW.MOSCHINO.COM MODE 316DE PARIS WWW.MODEAPARIS.COM
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MOTEL MOTELCLOTHES.COM MUSETTE MUSETTE.RO MIA SOANA MIA-SOANA.COM MISSONI WWW.MISSONI.COM NEW LOOK WWW.NEWLOOK.COM NOA NOA WWW.NOANOAUK.COM NORMA KAMALI WWW.NORMAKAMALI.COM NEW YORKER WWW.NEWYORKER.DE KAASKAS KAASKAS.COM PANIZZA WWW.PANIZZA1879.COM PLISSIMA PLISSIMA.COM RAF SIMONS RAFSIMONS.COM RIVER ISLAND WWW.RIVERISLAND.COM LANVIN WWW.LANVIN.COM VENCOUVERT VENTCOUVERT.COM LAURENCE BOSSION WWW.LAURENCEBOSSION.COM LINDA FARROW INT.LINDAFARROW.COM LE SARTE PETTEGOLE WWW.LESARTEPETTEGOLE.COM LUCA SCIASCIA WWW.LUCASCIASCIA.COM L72 WWW.L72.EU VALENTINO WWW.VALENTINO.COM VAN HOYDEN FACEBOOK.COM/VANHOYDENCLOTHES VIVIENNE WESTWOOD WWW.VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.COM PARI DESAI WWW.PARIDESAI.COM PAUL&JOE WWW.PAULANDJOE.COM SISTA STUDIO WWW.SISTASTUDIO.COM STUDIO PRETZEL WWW.STUDIOPRETZEL.COM SYLWIA ROCHALA WWW.SYLWIAROCHALA.COM TORY BURCH WWW.TORYBURCH.COM THE HUNTED NYC WWW.THEHUNTEDNYC.COM TERRANOVA WWW.TERRANOVASTYLE.COM YUMMY GUMMY SHEET LATEX YUMMYGUMMYLATEX.COM URBAN OUTFITTERS WWW.URBANOUTFITTERS.COM WAREHOUSE WWW.WAREHOUSE.CO.UK 319
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