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Contacts | facebook. instagram. blogsopt: omutjewelry
Body chains jewelry
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Contacts | facebook. instagram. blogspot: omutjewelry
Body chains jewelry
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & FOUNDER Ekaterina Dokuchaeva GRAPHIC DESIGNER Nikita Eliseev CONTRIBUTORS Séna Aurélia & Kate Marasina Olga Lenskaya Marianna Visotskaya Maxim Baev Kristine Kurnosova Max Kulikov Anastasia Zhirkova
EDITORIAL editorial@just-magazine.com ADVERTISING info@just-magazine.com
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PLEASANT SENSE OF FASHION INJECTION
Cover artist Ekaterina Dokuchaeva / Model Ada F / Glasses Woodsun / Swimsuit H&M / Earrings Monki
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Photography Olga Lenskaya
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this issue
SS 15 14. Fashion trends 2015 MARINA 24. Olga Lenskaya & Xenia Dremina BRANDON 36. Séna Aurélia & Kate Marasina MOLLIE GABRIEL 52. interview FLOWER PIMPLES 64. Marianna Vysotskaya GREEN LAKE 72. Olga Lenskaya OMUT 84. interview with Nastya Klimova MOSCOW 96. Kristine Kurnosova THE HOTEL 112. Maxim Baev HERBARIUM 130. Anastasia Zhirkova THE CLIFF 148. Max Kulikov TROPICANA 166. Ekaterina Dokuchaeva summer 2015 | 11
Summ to disc many p ly invite issue ju energy We ha is to fe quater gives a
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EDITORS LETTER
mer is the great time to start the projects, begin jogging in the morning and do anything close your internal forces. So we decided to create something cool. It’s very exiting that people around the world wanted to join us! We appreciate each of you and greatfule to take a part of our production. We were due to come out in the mid of June, but ust did not feel ready. Many thanks to our contributors for their patience and creative y. Well, it wasn’t easy to start, but we feel very inspired by every part of modern life. ave a great desire to explore and present glorious talants to the wide audience. JUST eel being free. Just can be your own fashion guide and inspirational figure. With our rly editions we will always manage to celebrate each season, but this one especially a joyful embrace to high summer vibes.
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15 FREEDOM If you’ve been following summer collections, you might have noticed that many designers are very committed to neutrality. With Seventies influences from Saturday night fever to hippy deluxe, a khaki nod to military style alongside nautical accents, experiments
with transparency, patchworks of vintage prints and a mix & match approach to volume and fabric, for Summer 2015 we’re set to see contrast take center stage. Here are the best and brightest looks from the spring/summer 2015 runways.
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Chanel
House Of Holland
Marni
Gucci
Chanel
House Of Holland
Marni
Fendi
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FLOWER
N
ever has the concept of florals for spring felt fresher: Big and beautiful or minute and abstract, this season, flower power is boldly feminine and here to stay.
Louis Vuitton
Valentino
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DENIM
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t’s a must-have in everyone’s wardrobes and as a fabric it never goes out of date. This season denim makes it’s return to the runway, reinvented in faded blues and a range of textured effects. Look for patched for extra style points. From more conventional end of the spectrum, first prize goes to the little Gucci dress for the carefully pulled-together cowgirl look, the Burberry trench that awakens the codes of British style with its contrasting suede panels, while Tommy Hilfiger’s patchwork ensemble spans the denim color palette, with stitched-together square jean pieces.
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Gucci
Marques’ Almeida
Gucci
Marques’ Almeida
Stella McCartney
Fendi
Burberry
Stella McCartney
Rodarte
Burberry
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PASTEL VISION
P
astel colors are totally in for the summer season of the year, looking positively fabulous in their softer. While the fall generally reminds us of more vivid, vibrant coloring, the winter months are snow laden, soft and cool, with barely a smidge of warmth that may be received from the rays of the sun that peeks through the grey clouds blotting out the beauty of the sky. However, no matter where you look, you also see a whole lot of pastel colors as well. From Dolce & Gabbana to Prada, Christian Dior to Rodarte and Chloé powdery pastels definitely made the cut when it came to the top notched trends of the season.
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Giorgio Armani
Chloé
Giorgio Armani
Chloé
Rodarte
Valentino
Burberry
Rodarte
Valentino
Chanel
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Chanel
Chloé
Louis vuitton
Valen
Chanel
Chloé
Louis vuitton
Valen
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WHITE L
ntino
Giorgio Armani
ntino
Giorgio Armani
ike the romantic heroines, the girls at Valentino, Chloe and Louis Vuitton were dressed in delicate fabrics that played on the transparency of aethereal white lace. The intricately worked fabric delicately unveils bare skin. The look of white lace was reimagined in beautiful ways, from thigh-grazing minidresses at Louis Vuitton and Chloe, to a modern spin on Victoriana at Erdem.
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Photography Olga Lenskaya Styling Xenia Dremina Model Marina Kasianova
ARINA
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Clothes Zara Shoes Tiffany 26 | just.magazine
Top FreshBlood Project / Pants FreshBlood Project Shirt Hydra Brand summer 2015 | 27
Jacket FreshBlood Project / Body Pull and Bear Pants Zara Shoes Vintage 28 | just.magazine
Clothes Zara Shoes Tiffany summer 2015 | 29
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Tunic FreshBlood Project / Shorts FreshBlood Project Shoes TopShop Unique summer 2015 | 31
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Blouse Rag & Bone / Pants FreshBlood Project Shoes Vintage
Olga Lenskaya instagram: verlegenheit Xenia Dremina cargocollective.com/styledby_xd
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BRANDO Photography Kate Marasina Stylist SĂŠna AurĂŠlia Grooming Isis Moenne-Loccoz Model Brandon Bailey @ New Madison models Paris
ON
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Jacket Yves Saint Laurent vintage / Jeans AMERICAN APPAREL Shoes PUMA / Suspenders AMERICAN APPAREL / Watch CASIO
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Tshirt/pant/suspenders AMERICAN APPAREL Shirt THE KOOPLES / Watch CASIO
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Teddy/pant AMERICAN APPAREL Shirt THE KOOPLES / Watch CASIO
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Jacket YVES SAINT LAURENT vintage Shirt THE KOOPLES / Pant AMERICAN APPAREL Shoes JEAN-BAPTISTE RAUTUREAU
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Perfecto/shirt THE KOOPLES / Jean AMERICAN APPAREL Shoes JEAN-BAPTISTE RAUTUREAU
Kate Marasina marasina.tumblr.com Sena Aurelia sena.a.aurelia@gmail.com
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I N T E R V I E W
MOLLIE GABRIEL RECENT MANCHESTER FASHION GRADUATE AND KEEN TO GET HER WORK OUT THERE. WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION WAS INSPIRED BY THE SAYING ‘BIRTHDAY SUIT’, IT IS FUN AND FRIVOLOUS, WITH MY DIGITAL PRINT DESIGNS, BOLD COLOUR COMBINATIONS AND BALLOONING SHAPES.
Photography Vicky Chambers
www.artsthread.com/profile/molliegabriel www.moliegabriel.co.uk molliebethgabriel@gmail.com www.vickychambers.com summer 2015 | 53
Who is Mollie Gabriel? Tell us briefly about yourself. I am a recent Manchester School of Art, Fashion graduate, originally from North Wales.
How did you discover an interest in fashion design? I have been obsessed by fashion since I was a little girl. Quite simply, it was the only thing I ever wanted to do. Being long and lanky, towering above my peers I already stood out, so dressing was a very conscious thing for me. My Mother despaired with my picky ways and perfectionist attitude towards my outfits, so it was no great surprise I was eager to design my own. North Wales is no fashion hotspot so I couldn’t wait to get to Manchester, with its diverse and exciting fashion scene.
What fascinates you about the art world today? What are your main inspirations? I occasionally see things that catch my eye particularly feminist art and photography. I particularly love Petra Collins’ work. It is simply honest but really beautiful. I actually featured her in my dissertation on the censorship of the female body. Ironically, I also have a bit of a soft spot for pre-Raphaelite paintings and poetry. I’m an old romantic at heart. Some long flowing hair, ethereal gowns and a mysterious expression and I’m all over it! I am fascinated by the female image throughout history, relating to my love of vintage memorabilia, in particular photographs. 54 | just.magazine
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“My designs became a bit of a beautiful chaos, with explosions of colours and prints” Tell us about your new collection. What is the key idea of it? Whilst interning in China, I found I an appreciation for British, colloquial sayings and idioms. They are almost a secret language. This sparked an initial research period into idioms where I focused my attentions to the fun phrase of ‘the birthday suit’. I explored objects and imagery connected to the theme, developing them into shape, colour, drape and finishing concepts. I explored experimental ballooning shapes and developed digital prints as well as hand painted stripes. My designs became a bit of a beautiful chaos, with explosions of colours and prints. Yet, there is a sensitivity to colour, with knocked back nudes and peaches, paired with garish green or canary yellow. Fine fabrics and finishings are key to pushing it up the luxurious spectrum.
“The financial challenges with the fashion industry are extreme” What is the most difficult or challenging aspect about your career as a designer? What is your main goal at this moment? The financial challenges with the fashion industry are extreme. The expense of the degree, excluding the fees is insane. Even those trying to do things as low cost as possible still spend thousands of pounds in their final year, with just a student loan for support. Sadly the situation post-graduation is much of the same. Internships are obvious a great way to gain experience but also a crippling option for many who need a job and income. London is an expensive place to be and it is (despite Manchester’s growing industry) the hub for fashion jobs. To live in London, starting out in the fashion industry is no small feat. It’s something I have to look forward to.
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"ANYONE WHO KNOWS MY WORK KNOWS I LOVE FINE, FLOWING FABRICS!"
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How did you choose the material for the collections? Anyone who knows my work knows I love fine, flowing fabrics! The first dress for this collection was out of 14 metres of habotai silk and only came to the knee, my next dress was to take over 20 metres. This was because of the huge, balloon-like panels and the fact all my garments are bagged out (meaning an almost identical garment lies inside like a lining, meaning all the seams are hidden and it feels good).
I learned quickly that I needed to be clever about the fabrication if I was be able to fund 5 more outfits! So I hand printed stripes onto cheaper fabrics, transforming them. I sourced synthetic versions of the luxury fabrics I would have used and made them look expensive, often pairing with genuine silk, which in itself became part of my design process and strategy. I shook my textile snobbery and truthfully, most thought it was all the real deal!
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Which artists, designers or photographers would you like to collaborate with? I always tell models to swish their hearts out and try and show off all that material! These clothes have fantastic movement in them and I really would love to capture them in a fashion film. I have dabbled in fashion film before and collaborated to produce two, of previous work. I would love to work with someone to really capture the whole feeling of the collection! Another thing I would love to do is get these clothes underwater! I think they would look incredible moving and distorted in the water. I am always keen to get my work out there and love seeing the way photographers and stylists interpret the clothes. If anyone wants to get involved please get in touch! summer 2015 | 63
FLOWER PIMPLES Photography Marianna Vysotskaya @marianna_vysotskaya Model Lina @linakorshunova /Sonya @brightstrin /Sasha @woodykoks Makeup Victoria @shnayder_vi
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cargocollective.com/marianna_vysotskaya
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Green
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n lake Photography Olga Lenskaya Model Olya Dryzhina Muah Dasha Dzuba Clothes AVA11
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Clothes AVA11
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Olga Lenskaya instagram: verlegenheit
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Interview with Nastya Klimova I N T E R V I E W OMUT is a quite famous brand. What is behind it? Who is Nastya Klimova? Tell us about yourself and your history as a creative. I grew up in a family where several generations possessed of various manual skills. So in our house it was made to be able to do practically everything by yourself. Hard to say why I have an interest in fashion developed, but five years old me could be found around the creation of outfits for Barbie dolls with old nylon stockings, or painting of anthropomorphic animals in dresses and stockings. Education of this avocation wasn’t available to me, so I entered the faculty of painting. For twenty years I felt a lot
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of potential, but I not even have an idea where it can be used. I just tried everything: painting, sewing, photography. A crucial role for me to played the wide propagation of the Internet, the entire stream of information that has become available, simply turned upside down my ideas about how and what you can do. It gave inducement and opportunity to work with the highest degree of independence and experiment, find your own audience and customers in the future. Many people think that I’m very hardworking and dedicated. Maybe. But the truth is that the most comfortable state for me is to sit at home and create something. Solitude and satisfaction of the finished work - my basic values.
"Solitude and satisfaction of the finished work - my basic values"
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damn beautiful a pink nipple will peek out from under the metallic lace of my bodychains, than that it would be expensive and luxurious.
What are the prospects for your design career? I’m going to put OMUT commercialization. Ideally, it would be well-known brand in narrow circles of people, the history of which is built around a single master. Personal connection with each created thing under my brand - is substantial for me.
Tell us about the combination of luxury and dark notes in your work. The gloomy romance, attractive aspects disgusting things, fetishizm and physicality, those aesthetic categories that are interesting to me to explore and recreate on the one hand, on the other hand I am really keen on manual labor, virtuosity and professionalism that you can reach by improv-
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ing your skills. Possess such things is a real luxury, but it is secondary. How to explain it... It is typical to human nature - decorate and magnify what he loves: religious people are spending millions on decoration of churches, followers of luxury furnish their homes with antiques, the child’s mother wants to encircle the best things. I am fond of the human body, I like sex and sin. Therefore creating my own things, I rather imagine how
What is the most difficult or challenging aspect about your career as a designer? There could be many things to list, some technical and organizational difficulties. But the really challenge one, and most important is never stop finding your lifework, do not be afraid of difficulties, not afraid of a period of stagnation, and continue to develop through thick and thin.
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"I AM FOND O
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OF THE HUMAN BODY, I LIKE SEX AND SIN"
What are your biggest goals as a designer and creative? The greatest ambition is to develop the brand and my compound Omut chain armors to absolute incognizance. I want to realize all the possible designs of jewelry in the most convenient and high-quality form.
What are your main inspirations, and how do you see your designs evolving? The body and any body practices - the choice of clothing to sexual deviancy. Melancholy and despondency as a protest against home
life and mechanical existence. Biographical stories of triumph of the will and persistence in achieving your own goals. These are the main triggers my imagination. I think the style does not change, it perfected. It cuts off the excess. I’m evolving myself, constantly pimped visually and aesthetically, so my style is to since the days of become thinner, intelligent, ironic. I hope.
Tell us about your working day. What is your daily regime? I try as much as possible go to bed early and wake up early. Night
tides of inspiration not for me. I like deep sleep, delicious healthy food, yoga and so on - very trivial habits, following which I work most effectively. My apartment is my workshop. Having finished with the household chores, sending a child to kindergarten, I analyze what to start first, I put the background of someone’s filmography or music depends on the mood and work until evening. My job is multitasking, it varies from design to the creation of real objects, to the organization of photoshoots and maintaining social networks. So in my case there is no place to routine. summer 2015 | 89
How do you overcome a consistency. Otherwise, people will start to think that you gave creative block? I haven’t any crisis of ideas or goals. But as fatigue accumulated from time to time the enthusiasm fizzles out. Any creative work requires a constant development. When you work as a creator, people are constantly waiting on for the results. There is some substitution - you’re less likely to feel interested in yourself as a person, whereas the question ‘’ What are you working on now? ‘,’ What’s your next step? ‘’ and stuff like that forced you to work without interruption, proving your creative
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up, exhausted. This responsibility weighs. And if feel this pressure and fatigue - must be able to switch. In the fourth year of the brand OMUT I took a one-year time out to work on a completely different project for the another audience. It was a twelve-month battle of creating clothes, such ‘Project Runway’ for two, based on the broadcast through social networks. It was fun, therapeutic fun. A year later, I returned to OMUT with the new forces and understanding.
Photography Ekaterina Dokuchaeva
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“Personal connection with each created thing under my brand - is substantial for me“
What upcoming projects can we expect to see from you?
Who do you see yourself collaborating with?
Initially OMUT was an experimental brand. In each new collection, I tried different approaches and materials, I has made seve-ral creative collaborations. It was equally the work and learning. Now, after analyzing my five years experience I decided to focus on jewelery from chains. I will develop OMUT in this direction. Working on the available catalogs, website creation and expansion of geography of sales outside Russia.
My dream is to work with jewelry for the collections of really big fashion houses. I like jewelry work of Lanvin or Dior (Raf Simons period). But in fact, the brand does not matter. The point is not ambition, it is the interest and desire to learn and create something together with great artists and industry professionals. It is clear that luxury is a dream for any designer, anything could happen. Who knows?)
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MOSCOW Kristine Kurnosova Photography Kristine Kurnosova Model Maria Kudryavtseva Make up Olga Goncharova summer 2015 | 97
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summer 2015 | 99 Dress Asya Dorofeeva
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Sweater H&M
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Dress Zara 102 | just.magazine
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Dress Zara 104 | just.magazine
Sweater H&M Shorts Bershka
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Dress Zara 106 | just.magazine
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cargocollective.com/kristinekurnosova
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THE HOTEL
Photography Maxim Baev Model Odett @ TANNmodels Style Sonya Vartanyan MUAH Yana Zhihareva Photographer assistant Lena Kozhevina Special thank’s Asya Malbershtein, Lyyk store, Want stor
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Maxim Baev behance.net/baevmaxim baevmaxim.tumblr.com
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Herbarium Photography Anastasia Zhirkova
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Anastasia Zhirkova instagram.com/anamoloko
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Photography Max Kulikov Model Yana @ KModels NY Clothing B / A N N E T
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Max Kulikov 500px.com/nut1k
b-annet.ru
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TR
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Circlet Promoda Showpoom / Swimsuit Promoda showroom / Glasses Woodsun
ROPICANA Photography Ekaterina Dokuchaeva Model Ada F Lighting Max Turbin
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Swimsuit Promoda showroom Glasses Woodsun / Accessories Promoda
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Top Promoda showroom Glasses Woodsun Accessories Promoda Chocker Ada Frolova summer 2015 | 171
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Swimsuit Urban Outfitters Earrings Monki / Glasses Woodsun/Promoda
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Glasses Dior / Necklace H&M Earrings Promoda Top Promoda showroom summer 2015 | 175
Swimsuit, glasses, accessories Promoda showroom
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Ekaterina Dokuchaeva dokuchaeva.com
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Suinin Aquapark summer 2015 | 179 Photography Reuters
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ADIDAS www.adidas.com ASOS www.asos.com AMERICAN APPAREL www.americanapparel.com AVA11 teoramag.ru BERSHKA www.bershka.com B-ANNET www.biannet.ru CASIO www.casio.com CALZEDONIA www.calzedonia.it DIOR www.dior.com FOREVER 21 www.forever21.com PRADA www.prada.com PUMA www.puma.com Geneve Anderson www.andersen-geneve.ch Rag & Bone www.rag-bone.com ANGELA BEAUMONT www.angela-beaumont.com GUESS www.guess.com REEBOK www.reebok.com H&M www.hm.com SAINT LAURENT PARIS www.ysl.com OSCAR DE LA RENTA www.oscardelarenta.com MASSIMO DUTTI www.massimodutti.com TOM OLIVER DESIGN www.tomoliverdesign.com TOPSHOP www.topshop.com MONKI www.monki.com URBAN OUTFITTERS www.urbanoutfitters.com
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Photography Olga Lenskaya
WOODSUN www.woodsun.ru ZARA www.zara.com
illustration by Kendall D.Lock www.kendalldlock.com
JUST FASHION
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