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Our unmatched selection of
SEPTEMBER 2024
EDITOR’S
FEATURES
CURATED COUTURE
Celebrate the 15th anniversary of the Art Institute of Chicago’s Modern Wing with a fashionable frolic through its galleries and along the Nichols Bridgeway. The Modern Wing boasts one of the world’s great collections of modern and contemporary art while the Nichols Bridgeway is a Chicago landmark linking the museum to our great city. These two masterworks by legendary architect Renzo Piano have become icons of Chicago architecture and serve as the backdrop for our fall fashion shoot.
MENDEL’S NEW HOUSE OF FASHION
Gilles and Chloé Mendel’s House of Gilles celebrates a rich couture legacy.
SEAMLESS
Craftsman and artist, Cristóbal Balenciaga never dropped a stitch.
Mabel Terry of Select Model Management wearing Rick Owens dress, ikram. Photographed on the Nichols Bridgeway, a gift of John D. and Alexandra C. Nichols. Photography by Runvijay Paul/Styling by Theresa DeMaria/Hair by Igor Shashkin/Makeup by Leanna Ernest
SEIZE THE MOMENT
Last
Founder & Publisher
Editor-in-Chief
Associate Publisher
Contributing Editors
Executive Project Director
Style Director
Style Editor
Director of Social Media
Contributing Writers
Art Director
Production Manager/ Graphic Designer
Senior Graphic Designer
Graphic Designer
Contributing Photographers
Contributing Illustrator
Administrative Assistant
Advertising Sales
Advisory Council
J.W. CONATSER
DUSTIN O’REGAN
JENNIFER STURGEON
MORGAN HOGERTY, MEGAN WEISBERG
KEMMIE RYAN
THERESA DEMARIA
ALLISON DUNCAN
REDDING WORTH
THOMAS CONNORS, JENNIFER MORAN, MONICA KASS ROGERS, LAURA LAYFER TREITMAN
JORDAN WILLIAMS
LINDA LEWIS
AMIN QUTTEINEH
ABDON LOERA
JAMES GUSTIN, RUNVIJAY PAUL, MARIA PONCE, MONICA KASS ROGERS, KATRINA WITTKAMP
ROBERT RISKO
CHEYANNE LENCIONI
GRETCHEN BARNARD
RAHEELA ANWAR, EILEEN BENNIN, RENEE CROWN, JEFFREY EISERMAN, MAUREEN GRINNELL, DANA HUGHES, JOYCE BRUCE JIARAS, JILL KATZ, LEXIE KNOX, YOANNA KULAS, ARTHUR MILLER, MEREDITH MITCHELL, SANDRA CASPARRIELLO, RONI MOORE NEUMANN, IBBY PINSKY, AND MONIQUE WATTS
Remarkably Bright Creatures by Shelby Van Pelt as part of Lake Forest Reads, One Book, One Community
CELEBRATING
My daughter’s 20th birthday and my 10th anniversary as Editor-in-Chief
Welcome to the September issue and our fashion-filled pages. In celebration of The Art Institute of Chicago’s Modern Wing and the Nichols Bridgeway’s 15th anniversary, these gorgeous locations were chosen as the backdrop for our fall fashion shoot. Two decades ago, I attended the Modern Wing’s groundbreaking ceremony on a beautiful sunlit morning, and several years later, I joined hundreds of guests celebrating the grand opening at a lavish gala. This issue pays tribute to these Renzo Piano-designed structures that today are among our great city’s architectural highlights. A heartfelt thank you to my friend Alexandra Nichols whose generosity knows no bounds when it comes to the Art Institute or Chicagoland. Alexandra joined our shoot, and we had a fantastic time seeing it unfold on her namesake bridge—an iconic Chicago landmark.
A round of applause for the Art Institute’s public relations team—Megan, Sadie, and Salina—who spent an entire day trekking us through these remarkable spaces. I hope you enjoy this stylish stroll as much as I did!
Swapping modern and contemporary art for a father/daughter design collaboration, our second feature introduces Gilles and Chloé Mendel, the founders of House of Gilles. This dynamic duo creates breathtaking designs for clients who value superior quality with a personal touch. Our third feature shines a light on another legendary designer, Balenciaga, and visits the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum in his hometown of Getaria, Spain. We round out the features with a tale of Pablo Picasso’s multifaceted relationship with Chicago and its collectors.
Trading art and fashion for the art of expression, Art & Artist highlights the subversively pink work of Yvette Mayorga. Hoping to feed your soul? First Class whisks us off to Cambodia—the home of the Khmer Empire’s ancient temples—and Recipe presents a fun twist on moules marinières
We close the issue with Parting Words from magazine writer and editor Tim Allis, the author of a new biography about luxury fashion pioneer Henri Bendel, who introduced concepts like in-store makeovers and fashion shows and whose signature brown and white striped bag was regularly spotted dangling from the wrists of chic shoppers.
YOUR GUIDE to the latest on PEOPLE, PLACES, and THINGS on the North Shore
Interior designer Claire Staszak of Centered by Design with panels from her wallpaper collaboration titled “Méditerranean Rêverie.” Newsworthy features the collaboration between Staszak and French heritage wallpaper brand Isidore Leroy.
AGENDA
SAVE the DATE
Sheridan Road provides the North Shore’s comprehensive social calendar.
EDITED BY JULIA PAULMAN
THROUGH SEPT 22
LOST & FOUND
WHERE: Chicago Botanic Garden
Experience plant conservation success stories through art and science. Visitors will engage in hands-on experiences, art installations, “After Hours Buzz” events, and other engaging activities inspired by restoration stories of plants once lost and forgotten. Original art pieces displayed throughout the garden represent what has been lost through development, natural disasters, and expansions. chicagobotanic.org/lost
SEPTEMBER 11
MIDWEST EVENING OF TRIBUTE
WHERE: Hilton Chicago
The Navy SEAL Foundation presents the 2024 Midwest Evening of Tribute to benefit the Navy SEAL Foundation. Mix and mingle over cocktails before dinner and an exciting program. navysealfoundation.org
SEPT 12 – OCT 27
NOISES OFF
WHERE: Steppenwolf Theatre
Steppenwolf Theatre opens its 49th season with a revival of Michael Frayn’s classic comedy Noises Off, directed by Tony-Award winning ensemble member Anna D. Shapiro. Enjoy the ingenious, slapstick, and zany tribute to “theatre people” everywhere. steppenwolf.org
SEPTEMBER 12
WOMEN’S BOARD SOIRÉE
WHERE: Bryn Mawr Country Club, Lincolnwood
Join the Women’s Board of the Illinois Holocaust Muse-
um & Education Center for an evening with great friends, handcrafted cocktails, fabulous food, the famous signature donut wall, and special entertainment. Proceeds support the Illinois Holocaust Museum’s award-winning exhibits, educational outreach, school field trips, and special projects. ilholocaustmuseum.org
SEPTEMBER 14
HARVEST DINNER
WHERE: Elawa Farm, Lake Forest Revel in the final days of summer at the Harvest Dinner where guests will enjoy a true farm-to-table feast on the beautiful grounds of Elawa Farm. All proceeds will support Elawa Farm Foundation’s program expansion and campus development. elawafarm.org/ annual-fundraisers
SEPT 14 – OCT 6
RIGOLETTO
WHERE: Lyric Opera House
Partake in an evening showcasing Giuseppe Verdi’s sensation, Rigoletto. Sung in Italian with projected English titles, the breathtaking piece is based on Victor Hugo’s play. Composer Music Director Enrique Mazzola, a much-acclaimed Verdian, brings astounding intensity to the story of Rigoletto, a court jester who is tragically consumed with the vengeance of his daughter Gilda’s dishonor. lyricopera.org
SEPTEMBER 16
PLAY FOR LITERACY
GOLF & GAMES
WHERE: Knollwood Club Reading Power proudly pres-
ents its fourth annual Play for Literacy Golf & Games event at Knollwood Club in Lake Forest. Whether you’re swinging clubs on the green, enjoying card games and laughter, or savoring the cocktail dinner reception, there’s something for everyone. Support Reading Power’s mission to foster the promise of literacy. playforliteracy.com
SEPTEMBER 18
NORTH SHORE COOKS’ TOUR 2024
WHERE: Several North Shore Homes
For the 53rd year, hundreds of guests will enjoy this showcase of North Shore’s most prestigious houses. The tour will feature five houses with eye-catching architecture and inspiring interiors. The tour is a project of the Auxiliary of the Woman’s Board of RUSH University Medical Center, which supports the medical center’s outstanding patient care, research, and community outreach initiatives in the diverse communities that RUSH serves. nscookstour.org
SEPTEMBER 20
FRIENDS OF PRENTICE
WHERE: Morgan Manufacturing Friends of Prentice hosts its annual gala to raise funds for critical research and initiatives in affiliation with Northwestern Medicine Prentice Women’s Hospital that impact women and infants in Chicago and on a global scale. Guests will hear from grant recipients, indulge in interactive food and cocktail stations, enjoy live music, dancing, and much more. friendsofprentice.org
SEPTEMBER 21
MOVE IV MBC
WHERE: Village Hall, Wilmette or Virtually Anywhere Nationwide
The Roots & Wings Charitable Foundation hosts its annual fundraiser Move IV MBC, where participants move 4 miles to support Stage IV Metastatic Breast Cancer. This year participants are invited to walk their “last mile” together in Wilmette, starting at Village Hall and ending at Gillson Beach’s Lakeview Center for brunch bites and refreshments. Funds raised support integrative and wellness programs that increase emotional, physical, and spiritual well-being during continuous oncology treatment for Metastatic Breast Cancer at leading cancer centers, including NorthShore, Northwestern, and RUSH Cancer Center. rootswingsfoundation.org
SEPT 23 AND 26
GOLD COAST FASHION SHOW
WHERE: The Ritz Carlton Chicago and The Geraghty Fashion and philanthropy merge as the Children’s Service Board presents its annual Gold Coast Fashion Show. Cutting-edge fashion will be showcased in two fast-paced, live runway shows at a luncheon on September 23 and an evening cocktail reception on September 26. Event proceeds will support the Board’s twoyear, $2 million commitment to the Hematology, Oncology, and Stem Cell Transplantation Fellowship Program. The Children’s Service Board will host both Gold Coast Fashion Show events with the board’s
long-time partner and exclusive retail sponsor Neiman Marcus Michigan Avenue. goldcoastfashionshow.com
SEPTEMBER 27
100TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION
WHERE: Community House, Winnetka
This fun-filled event will take place in the North Shore Art League’s historic, light-filled studio. Raise a glass of bubbly and celebrate the 100th anniversary of the North Shore Art League—a century of art in the community. Enjoy art, live music, libations, and hors d’oeuvres. northshoreartleague.org
SEPTEMBER 27
20TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION
WHERE: 620 Lincoln Avenue, Winnetka
Celebrate two decades of award-winning children’s theater at Skyline’s 20th Anniversary Celebration. Enjoy the staff performance of the fall show, Wizard of Oz, snag complimentary Skyline swag, and purchase limited edition 20th Anniversary merchandise. Snacks and concessions will be included in your ticket. skylinechildrenstheater.com
SEPTEMBER 28
A NIGHT IN THE WHITE CITY
WHERE: Palmer House Hilton
The Woman’s Board of Rush University Medical Center hosts its Fall Benefit: A Night in the White City—themed after the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. The evening will feature a sit-down dinner, cocktails, live music, and inspiration. Funds raised will support The Woman’s Board Endowed Fund for Research and Clinical Trials at RUSH. thewomansboard.org
SEPTEMBER 29
BAGPIPES & BONFIRE
WHERE: Middlefork Farm Nature Preserve Lake Forest Open Lands’ (LFOLA) annual fundrais-
AGENDA
Steppenwolf Theatre’s Noises Off features Audrey Francis. September 12 - October 27
er is like no other and is not to be missed. Proceeds from the event support LFOLA’s mission to connect all to nature through outreach and land preservation. Join an evening of celebration, gathered around a grand bonfire after skydivers swoop down at sunset. lfola.org/ bagpipes-bonfire/
SEPTEMBER 29
THE RUNWAY OF RESILIENCE FASHION SHOW
WHERE: Salvage One, Chicago Twist Out Cancer, which provides psychosocial support through creative arts programming to those impacted by cancer, will host the Runway of Resilience Fashion Show. It will bring together former Brushes with Cancer designers, who will be creating unique fashion pieces modeled by individuals touched by cancer. twistoutcancer.org
OCTOBER 3 – 6
CHICAGO EXHIBITION
WEEKEND
WHERE: Across the city of Chicago Gertie and EXPO CHICAGO are excited to present Chicago
Exhibition Weekend (CXW), a citywide activation spanning Chicago’s art galleries and creative spaces! CXW showcases the vibrant cultural scene of the city, celebrating local artists while also inviting international creatives to participate. With a mix of exhibitions, conversations, and interactive experiences, CXW aims to inspire, educate, and connect art enthusiasts of all ages and backgrounds. Whether you’re a seasoned art connoisseur or just beginning to explore the world of creativity, this weekend promises a unique and enriching cultural experience that truly captures the essence of Chicago’s artistic spirit. gertie.co
OCTOBER 16
COCKTAILS FOR A CAUSE
WHERE: Sunset Ridge Country Club
Since 1951, Josselyn has worked within the community to ensure everyone has equitable access to the highest quality mental care. Join Josselyn supporters at its signature fundraising event with all proceeds benefiting Josselyn programming. josselyn.org
OCTOBER 26
PURPLE TIE BALL
WHERE: Lincolnshire Marriott Resort
Raise a glass to commemorate Domestic Violence Awareness Month and celebrate the survivors. This year’s 24th annual Purple Tie Ball transports guests to a Winter Wonderland. There will be a cocktail reception, dinner, program, dancing, live auction, raffle prizes, and winter wonderland inspired surprises. wingsprogram.com
NOVEMBER 7
ANTIQUES + MODERNISM PREVIEW PARTY
WHERE: Community House, Winnetka
You won’t want to miss the Midwest’s most well-respected combined antiques and modernism show opening night preview party. The spectacular evening allows guests a first look at the exquisite home furnishings, accessories, artwork, clothing, jewelry, and more before the three-day show opens to the public from November 8 through 10. All proceeds benefit the Community House in Winnetka. thewinnetkashow.com
N EWSWORTHY
Since 1937, Smith’s Men’s Store has been synonymous with timeless style on the North Shore. In 2019, new owners Kip Helverson and Trey Gonzales restored the shop’s charm and are now marking their fifth anniversary of ownership. Together, they have crafted an elevated shopping experience, blending luxurious apparel with expert in-house tailoring. Buoyed by their success in Lake Forest, Helverson and Gonzales proudly announce a second location in Winnetka, scheduled to open in October. Whether in Lake Forest or soon in Winnetka, Smith’s Men’s Store offers a curated selection of men’s sportswear, business attire, casual pieces, and formalwear suitable for every generation. For more information, visit smithsmensstore.com.
WELL SUITED A TAPESTRY OF TALES
Chicago-based interior designer Claire Staszak of Centered by Design and French heritage wallpaper brand Isidore Leroy have launched a new wallpaper collaboration titled “Méditerranean Rêverie.” The collection traces back to the idyllic interiors of European homes from Venice to Antibes. For her first-ever product launch, Staszak pairs this timeless inspiration with fanciful charm to design six papers including fully immersive murals that feature garden and trellis motifs, old-world architectural paneling, shell patterns, classic stripes, and Venetian marbling. The collection will roll out on Isidore’s e-commerce site where the Isidore team will work with customers to tailor the murals to their specific rooms, and customers can directly purchase rolls of wallpaper. For more information, visit us.isidoreleroy.com.
GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY
Reward yourself with a Fairmont Gold experience at the recently renovated Fairmont Chicago Millennium Park. A private lounge offering VIP concierge services and complimentary food and drinks throughout the day is exclusively available to Fairmont Gold guests. Eighty-three extensively transformed Fairmont Gold guestrooms and suites provide an extra touch of splendor, and the hotel’s dedicated team strives to deliver the highest level of personalized service to each Fairmont Gold guest. Whether locals are enjoying a staycation in the city, or visitors are getting their first look at the famous Cloud Gate across the street, this “hotel within a hotel” provides all guests with an unforgettable stay. For more information, visit fairmontchicago.com
Stenströms fall collection
available at Smith’s Men’s Store
WARNER INSTITUTE
BACK TO SCHOOL SKINCARE
As the BACK-TO-SCHOOL season approaches or you prepare for the fall, it’s essential to align your skincare routine with the changing weather and activities. The Warner Aesthetic & Reconstructive Institute offers products and services that can help you get ready!
Your experience depends on the specific procedure you choose. While the steps may vary, the overall experience is designed to be comfortable and practical. We will begin by thoroughly assessing your skin and discussing your desired outcomes to determine the most suitable treatment.
Your treatment may involve techniques such as facials, painless laser hair removal, CO2 superficial CoolPeel, or a more aggressive CO2 Tetra treatment. Fractional CO2 laser treatments deliver exceptional results with minimal downtime, and are all performed comfortably in the office. Our treatments are performed in our state-of-the-art office by our expert aesthetician team, in conjunction with Dr. Warner. The duration of the procedure
will depend on the type of treatment selected, ranging from quick sessions under an hour to slightly longer sessions for more comprehensive treatments.
Our skincare products are meticulously curated to deliver unparalleled results, representing the pinnacle of innovation in dermatological care. Our selection caters to diverse skin concerns, from the renowned formulations of SkinBetter Science and SkinCeuticals to the specialized scar management provided by Silagen Scar Cream. Whether you seek advanced anti-aging solutions or targeted care for post-procedure recovery, our products exemplify the commitment to excellence that defines The Warner Institute.
The best way to determine the right procedure or products for your needs is through a consultation with our licensed aesthetician, Rene. During this session, Rene will assess your skin condition, discuss your goals, and create a personalized treatment plan tailored to achieve optimal results.
Whether you’re preparing for school or just transitioning into fall, our expert team, top-tier products and treatments are here to help you achieve and maintain a luminous and healthy complexion. Trust in The Warner Aesthetic & Reconstructive Institute’s commitment to excellence and let us guide you on your skincare journey. 847.558.8888
DR. JEREMY WARNER, MD FACS
SHORE CITY
JULIE MCCAULEY thrived in the fast-paced world of event production for prestigious public relations and brand experience agencies in Chicago. However, following her marriage to Mike McCauley and the arrival of their two daughters, Tatum and Margaux, McCauley decided it was time to return to her roots on the North Shore. Balancing a bustling Winnetka household including two beloved English Cream Golden Retrievers, McCauley’s life was brimming with activity. An additional opportunity appeared when friends introduced her to the WINGS Program, an organization dedicated to providing housing and comprehensive support to women escaping domestic violence. Inspired by the mission, McCauley joined the WINGS North Shore Leadership Council and serves on the Host Committee for the October 26 WINGS Purple Tie Ball, a gala celebrating the resilience and success of WINGS’ survivors. McCauley set aside her kids’ calendars, dog leashes, and party planning notes to share her favorite spots both in the city and along the shore.
EDITED BY MORGAN HOGERTY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES GUSTIN STYLING BY THERESA DEMARA HAIR & MAKEUP BY MARGARETA
KOMLENAC
What’s on the horizon? Planning my next career move Mantra? Don’t take good health for granted Best grooming tip? With hair like mine, weekly blowouts Guilty pleasure? Eating every kind of candy imaginable Favorite foods? Sushi and all Asian cuisine Music you love? Anything from the ‘90s—I was all about grunge and saw Nirvana live at the Aragon Ballroom Best advice ever given to you? No amount of anxiety makes any difference to anything that is going to happen Best advice you’ve given? Every thought doesn’t need to be attached to an emotion
Earliest memory? Making friends in preschool—still my friends today When you wake up, you? Cuddle my dogs Before bed, you? Cuddle my dogs What’s on your bookshelf? The Invisible Life of Addie LaRue by V.E. Schwab You can’t live without? Shred415 Love to escape to? Palm Beach to visit family Advice you would give to your younger self? Get a degree in something you’re passionate about. Study sports marketing and ideally find a dream job in the NFL
ON THE SHORE IN THE CITY
Your style is? Favorite season is summer—long flowy dresses, fun hat, and Krewe glasses Can’t leave the house without? A snack Transportation? My Land Rover. A rolling garbage can as my husband says. Bike to dinner in the neighborhood Driving music? 93XRT or Taylor Place to eat? Mino’s or Le Colonial Shop? I still love department store shopping—Bloomies, Nordstrom, or Neimans Best thing about the Shore? The calm Worst thing about the Shore? You can’t go anywhere without running into someone The perfect day is? Coffee, walk with the dogs and family, manicure/pedicure with friends, happy hour, a date with my husband
Your style is? Edgier—anything alice + olivia Can’t leave the house without? Good shoes Transportation? Uber or car Driving music? 93XRT Place to eat? Anywhere in the West Loop or Lincoln Square. One of my favorites is Bistro Campagne Shop? p.45 Best thing about the City? Restaurants and shops Worst thing about the City? The constant rush and noise The perfect day is? Shopping, happy hour and dinner with my husband, and an overnight stay at a nice hotel
Julie McCauley wearing L’AGENCE jacket and skirt, Theory blouse, Neiman Marcus Northbrook
Palm Beach, Florida
Le Colonial
Bistro Campagne
THE PREVIEW
A PATH TO THE CURES GALA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB AND DAWN DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN
On Saturday, October 26, Chicago-based Gateway for Cancer Research will host its 33rd annual Cures Gala.
The event raised more than $3 million in 2023. Gateway for Cancer Research was founded in 1991 to accelerate practice-changing discoveries in cancer care by harnessing the unrelenting passion of the research community and empowering patients to triumph over their disease.
The event celebrates the trials, researchers, doctors, and patients that they work with every day. With world-class dining and stellar entertainment, Gateway’s flagship signature event continues to be a celebratory occasion benefiting Phase I and II cancer clinical trials.
Gateway has invested more than $114 million to advance 234 cancer clinical trials that have offered hope and healing to more than 35,000 patients and families around the world.
The event is hosted by Gateway co-chairs and Chicago locals Dr. Stacie J. Stephenson and Mr. Richard J Stephenson at their private residence in Barrington Hills, and is an exclusive, unforgettable evening where 100 percent of funds raised will go directly towards early-phase cancer research.
To purchase tickets, sponsor, or for more information, visit gatewaycr.org/curesgala.
Robin Thicke, Vonzell Solomon, Richard J Stephenson, Dr. Stacie J. Stephenson, Taylor Dayne, and Joey Fatone at a past Cures Gala.
TAILORED MOMENTS MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME
Meet two Chicago area businesswomen who specialize in getting things done.
WORDS BY LEA GUCCIONE / PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATRINA WITTKAMP STYLING BY THERESA DEMARIA / HAIR & MAKEUP BY LEANNA ERNEST
Asimple adage still reigns true—time is our greatest asset. “We all will only have so much of it in our lives,” says Julia Hudson, co-founder and CEO of Pennyworth Projects. “It’s not that every moment needs to be full, but every moment should be what you want it to be.”
This philosophy guides Pennyworth Projects, a boutique search firm run exclusively by Hudson and co-founder and COO, Lisa Casson. The powerhouse duo launched Pennyworth over four years ago with a clear mission: to match just about anyone—businesses, individuals, families—with the right support staff, executive assistants, or project managers to help optimize their time.
“We want people to be able to regain a sense of ownership over how they’re using time,” says Hudson. “If you’re running a business, you’re an executive, or you just have a big, busy life with a family, running multiple residences or offices, you’re wasting time if you don’t have the right support. Scheduling, planning, vendor and house management—we know these take time away from someone’s life.”
Hudson and Casson speak from ample experience in fast-paced industries like tech, athletics, and hospitality. Both spent years in top executive support roles, notably serving as co-executive assistants to former Yahoo CEO, Marissa Mayer, in the company’s Sunnyvale, California, headquarters. It was there, sitting side-byside, day-in and day-out, that the two cemented their working relationship.
“We were always involved in the hiring process and all of this experience really led us to start Pennyworth,” says Hudson. “We understood these roles from the inside-out like nobody else did. We have sat in those seats, we’ve done the job, we’ve worked alongside people who have worked in jobs parallel to us to build the right support around executives and make things work.”
“We’re also both high-functioning, highly efficient, but very passionate people,” says Casson. “And I believe strongly that life is about energy and timing.”
When the COVID-19 pandemic hit in 2020, an opportunity to build something presented itself. “No one saw the pandemic coming, and the timing of that alongside Hudson’s move to the Chicago area was the perfect ‘if not now, then when?’ moment for us,” says Casson.
rienced candidates in hundreds of roles nationwide.
“We take building our network very seriously. It is the core of our business,” Casson shares.
There is a significance to their roles as mindful custodians of time. Knowing this, the pair conduct each search with complete confidentiality, recognizing that every client’s needs are different and should be respected.
“It was natural because we have a huge network of support professionals in our lives,” says Hudson. “Truthfully, everyone was already calling us to find them the right support. For the first few years of Pennyworth, we just told our network what we were doing with no marketing and built our business out of that.”
Their ability to read between the lines and understand where an organization or individual is in their chapter of life is a unique matchmaking insight that’s helped place dynamic, smart, and expe-
“There’s a really special understanding when we meet with clients and candidates that we do things differently,” Casson shares. “It’s just me and Julia. You’re not going to be meeting with another recruiter throughout the full-cycle placement process. It’s the two of us for the entire journey”
“We’re always open to a conversation,” they add.
“Support roles allow someone to be happier, more successful, and spend more time on things that are most important to them,” says Casson. “If you’re seeking support, we’re there for you because we want people to have that—and we’re passionate about that.”
For more information, visit pennyworthprojects.com
Elegant Ravinia Tudor offers classic style with modern amenities! The spacious interior is perfect for entertaining from the oversized living room with its welcoming fireplace. Features new kitchen and baths! Ornate windows and wide plank floors guide you to a warm and inviting family room in the center of the home that’s bathed in sunlight. Wide French doors usher you to the paver patio and pergola seating area. Five beds and three baths up including a lovely primary suite with spa-like bathroom. On the other end of the home, there is a great au pair/in-law arrangement with full bath. Lower level has recreation room and craft space. Fantastic closets and storage utilize every nook. There is a convenient attached heated two car garage! Close to everywhere Ravinia location: Food Truck Thursdays, Farmer’s Market Wednesdays, Beach, Green Bay Trail, Schools, Shops & Restaurants, Metra, Ravinia Festival, Botanic Garden and so much more!
“JUST PURCHASED WITH CORY
“Cory was far and away the best agent to work with in buying our home in Ravinia. From the moment we met, Cory impressed us with his deep knowledge of the local market and keen understanding of our needs. Throughout the entire process, Cory was incredibly responsive and proactive. He patiently answered all our questions, provided valuable insights into each property we visited, and guided us through negotiations with professionalism and skill. What stood out the most was his dedication to finding us not just a house, but a home that perfectly matched our criteria. We are so glad he was our agent as home buying can be such a stressful process but he made us feel at ease and confident that he would find us something that fit our needs in this tough market. Thanks to Cory’s efforts, we found our dream home faster than we expected and closed smoothly. His attention to detail and commitment to client satisfaction truly set him apart. We highly recommend Cory to anyone looking to buy or sell property in Ravinia/Highland Park. Thanks so much for everything, Cory!”
—Pat & Molly Barron, Ravinia
THE RIGHTS OF UNMARRIED PARENTS IN ILLINOIS
Legal perspectives and statutory framework.
WORDS BY MICHONE J. RIEWER / PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATRINA WITTKAMP / STYLING BY THERESA DEMARIA
In Illinois, the legal landscape for unmarried parents differs significantly from that of married couples, particularly regarding parental rights and responsibilities. Understanding these distinctions is crucial for unmarried parents navigating custody, visitation, and child support issues.
Establishing Paternity
For unmarried fathers, establishing paternity is the first crucial step in securing parental rights. Without legal paternity, a father has no enforceable rights to custody or visitation. Illinois law provides several methods for establishing paternity:
1. Voluntary Acknowledgment of Paternity (VAP): Both parents can sign a VAP form, typically at the hospital when the child is born. This form must be filed with the Illinois Department of Healthcare and Family Services to be legally binding.
2. Administrative or Judicial Order: If there is any dispute or if the VAP is not signed, paternity can be established through an administrative order by the Illinois Department of Healthcare and Family Services or a court order following genetic testing.
Once paternity is established, the father gains the rights and responsibilities of a parent, including the right to seek custody and visitation, and the obligation to provide child support.
Custody and Visitation
In Illinois, the terms “custody” and “visitation” have been replaced with “allocation of parental responsibilities” and “parenting time.”
Parenting Time: This involves the schedule of when the child spends time with each parent. Illinois courts encourage both parents to be involved in their child’s life, aiming for arrangements that serve the child’s best interests. Factors influencing parenting time include the parents’ availability, the child’s routine, and the parents’ ability to cooperate.
Rights and Responsibilities of Unmarried Mothers
Under Illinois law, an unmarried mother automatically has sole physical and legal custody of the child at birth. This means she has the exclusive right to make decisions regarding the child’s welfare until paternity is established and a court order is issued regarding custody and visitation. However, once paternity is established, unmarried mothers are subject to the same legal standards as a married parent.
Allocation of Parental Responsibilities: This refers to decision-making authority over major aspects of the child’s life, including education, health care, religion, and extracurricular activities. The court determines these responsibilities based on the child’s best interests, considering factors such as:
• Each parent’s wishes and the child’s needs.
• The child’s relationship with each parent and any siblings.
• The child’s adjustment to home, school, and community.
• The mental and physical health of all parties involved.
• Any histor y of violence or abuse.
Child Support Obligations
Both parents, regardless of marital status, are responsible for supporting their child financially. Illinois uses an “income shares” model to calculate child support, which considers the income of both parents. The goal is to ensure the child receives the same proportion of parental income they would have if the parents lived together.
The court can also allocate additional expenses, such as health care, education, and extracurricular activities, between the parents, proportionally to their income before child support. Child support orders are enforceable through the courts and often paid through the State Disbursement Unit through direct deduction from the parent’s paycheck to ensure compliance and regular payments.
Legal Assistance and Advocacy
Navigating the complexities of parental rights and responsibilities can be challenging for unmarried parents. Legal assistance is often essential to ensure that rights are protected, and responsibilities are clearly defined. Strategic Divorce can protect unmarried parents with paternity actions, custody disputes, and child support issues, providing representation and guidance throughout the legal process.
Michone Riewer is an attorney with Strategic Divorce in Lake Bluff, 847-234-4445, strategicdivorce.com.
Michone J. Riewer
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FASHION & BEAUTY
LIVING AND DRESSING WELL
RED HOT SEASON
Looks from Versace Fall/Winter 2024 Collection
FASHION
FALL PREVIEW
EDITED BY ALLISON DUNCAN
BEAUTY
FALL PREVIEW
EDITED BY ALLISON DUNCAN
01 CELINE BEAUTÉ by Hedi Slimane Le Rouge Celine Lipstick Rouge Triomphe, Celine Chicago, 312-248-9177 02 Hermès Nail Polish, Hermès Chicago, 312-787-8175 03 Tory Burch Sublime Eau de Parfum 90ml, Tory Burch Chicago, 312-280-0010 04 Kosas Soulgazer Intensifying Gel Eyeliner, kosas.com 05 Hermès Lipstick, Hermès Chicago, 312-787-8175 06 Moroccanoil Purifying Scrub, moroccanoil.com 07 Nails.INC Speedy Gloss Polish in Haily, nailsinc.com 08 Hermès Lipstick, Hermès Chicago, 312-787-8175 09 Hermès Limited-Edition Eyeshadow Palette, Hermès Chicago, 312-787-8175 10 Pat McGrath Labs x Schiaparelli Couture, patmcgrath.com 11 Hermès Nail Polish, Hermès Chicago, 312-787-8175 12 Armani Beauty Prisma Glass Lip Gloss, Nordstrom Old Orchard, 847-677-2121 13 Lawless Beauty Sweet Daisy Collection, lawlessbeauty.com 14 Charlotte Tilbury Exagger-Eyes Mascara, charlottetilbury. com 15 Lancôme Idole Mascara Duo, Nordstrom Old Orchard, 847-677-2121 16 Hermès Lipstick, Hermès Chicago, 312-787-8175 17 CELINE BEAUTÉ by Hedi Slimane Collection, Celine Chicago, 312-248-9177 18 MAC Eye for Arrangements Eye Kit, Nordstrom Old Orchard, 847-677-2121 19 Morphe Mixed Signals Dual Shadow Stick, morphe.com
CULTURE & ARTS
THE NORTH SHORE’S MOST CREATIVE PURSUITS
Yvette Mayorga’s Resting Scrolling after François Boucher, Madame de Pompadour, 1756, 2022, acrylic nails, Nike shoes, false eyelashes, collage, plastic ring, plastic gummy bears, cherry nail rhinestones, rhinestones, car wrap vinyl, and acrylic piping on canvas, 60” x 60.” Mayorga is featured in Art & Artist
TICKLED
PINK
Peruse the colorful works of artist
Yvette Mayorga
ART & ARTIST POWER IN PINK
Yvette Mayorga’s Rococo works pack a meaningful punch.
WORDS BY MONICA KASS ROGERS
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIAN A.
ART PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF YVETTE MAYORGA
On first view, Chicago artist Yvette Mayorga’s ornate creations seem a fantasy in sugary pink, there just for the fun of it. Balloons bob, roses twirl, and cherubs fly like massive cake toppers in a patisserie dream. But as the intricate swirls and filigree draw you in to study the jaw-dropping detail, you realize there’s much more to the work than first meets the eye.
“Not everything is what we think it is,” says Mayorga, who has spent the last 12 years painting and sculpting works that are windows into her Y2K youth as a first-generation Mexican American and the Latinx experience of the illusory American dream.
The pink-laced approachability of her work is intentional, meant to pull the viewer in to contemplate the deeper, more difficult themes layered within. For example, the lavishly adorned interiors in her Polly Pocket-reminiscent Surveillance Locket series, seem pinkly perfect until you notice the gun-toting soldiers and immigration agents patrolling at the edges.
Installation shot from Mayorga’s solo exhibition What a Time to be, the Momentary, Bentonville, Arkansas
Yvette Mayorga
Made in Mexico
(Fecit Mexici)
, 2024. mirror, hand mirror, acrylic nails, nail
charms, clock, toy scorpion, collage and acrylic piping on canvas, 36” x 48”
ART & ARTIST
A
Always a deep thinker, while studying painting at the University of Illinois, Mayorga found herself drawn to two underdogs of the art world—the color pink and 18th-century Rococo. “Both were dismissed as frivolous or excessive,” she says. “But combined in my work, they have become powerful, world-building tools.” This is especially true as she expresses reactions to colonialism and labor from a Latinx perspective.
Both issues are deeply personal to Mayorga. So, too, the confectionary elements of her work. Mayorga’s parents emigrated to Chicago in the late ‘60s, followed by her grandfathers. Her mom worked in the bakery at Marshall Field’s and her grandfathers at the original Tootsie Roll factory on Chicago’s South Side. “It’s funny,” she says, “I actually came to working with sugar through exploring my family’s migration story while referencing colonialism. Finding that my familial labor histories had a shared sugar connection made me want to explore working with baking and decorating tools. I wanted to honor my family’s past labors with sugar directly through my use of materials, as another thread of our long history of labor contributions to the U.S.”
Mayorga began experimenting with edible materials in 2011, applying frosting through piping bags onto canvases and sculptural totems. As the work progressed, she transitioned to using
work from Mayorga’s Surveillance Locket series
The Brunette Latinx Self Portrait After François Boucher’s “The Brunette Odalisque,” c. 1745, 2022, acrylic nails, acrylic marker, false eyelashes, collage, plastic rings, plastic nail charms, rhinestones, car wrap vinyl, and acrylic piping on wood panel, 120” x 60” x 2”
Installation shot from Mayorga’s solo exhibition What a Time to be, the Momentary, Bentonville, Arkansas
ART & ARTIST
Bien Chiqueada, 2024, acrylic nails, nail charms, toy snake, false eyelashes, toy scorpion, scorpion. belt, and acrylic piping on canvas, 36” x 48”
ART & ARTIST
The Reenactment with Nike Air Jordans After The Last Supper, 2022, acrylic nails, Nike shoes, false eyelashes, collage, plastic ring, plastic gummy bears, cherry nail rhinestones, rhinestones, car wrap vinyl, and acrylic piping on canvas, 60” x 60”
industrial materials, then to paint, plus, in her new ceramic works, clay formulated to a pipeable consistency. Creating just one of her pieces can take anywhere from five months to two years. Each is a composition of objects—a collage of everything from rhinestones, dollar-store trinkets, and acrylic fingernails to false eyelashes, plus piped paint applied in many layers over custom-designed panels fabricated of canvas and wood.
This layering process is intrinsically linked to the messages embedded in the works. “My work has always been heavily research-based, always a reference and intervention within an art history context, and always inserting a new perspective within traditional painting,” says Mayorga.
“The layering of meanings and, literally, the layering of paint layers through the use of collaging paint on top of paint on top of paint is part of my process of covering and uncovering while creating a work,” she explains. “It’s the most exciting part for me—hiding a reference or iconography through several paint layers. I want the viewer to have a different perspective every time they interact and return to the work.”
For Mayorga, who never stepped into an art museum until she was 18, her summers spent with her family in Mexico, the religious iconography of the Catholic church, the knick-knacks in the domestic spaces, the family archive, the hue “Mexican Pink,” and youth culture were early inspirations for her take on Rococo. Within that, many paintings recontextualize portraits by 18th-century Rococo painter François Boucher while another gorgeous triplet of sibling portraits took inspiration from 17th-century lithographer Martin Engelbrecht.
Currently, Mayorga is in Mexico exhibiting at Guadalajara’s Museo de Arte de Zapopan for her first international solo museum exhibition, La Jaula de Oro. She is also doing her second ceramics residency at Cerámica Suro while there. “I’m always dreaming up new possibilities of exploring my ideas through clay,”
she says. “I find it to be such an exciting and challenging material to work with. You have to let go of your sense of control and be open to unexpected possibilities. I really love that.”
Looking ahead, Mayorga says she is interested in talking more about the female body, reproductive rights, and health. “These issues feel extremely pressing for me and of course are tied to gender, identity politics, and migration that are all at the core of my work.”
To view Mayorga’s work locally, her Vuela Vuela sculpture at 520 N. Michigan is one of 29 sculptures on display as part of Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum’s Flight of the Butterflies citywide exhibit, or visit Millennium Park to see The Lovers Dance, her first augmented reality public work up through November. On October 6, Mayorga will host visitors and share her artistic practice in her studio as part of Chicago Exhibition Weekend’s studio crawl. She also has an upcoming show at Chicago’s Monique Meloche Gallery in June 2025 and will be the first non-New York resident to display in the Times Square Arts public art exhibition in 2025. For more information, visit yvettemayorga.com.
Bedroom After 15th, 2022, Installation: acrylic piping on Disney TV, purses, shoes, lotion, wooden shelves, lamp, ceramic, book bag, sneakers, Hello Kitty bubble blower, clock, faux books, mirrors, wood, pillows, wall paintings, nightstand, acrylic piping on bike, and acrylic piping on canvas, 9’ x 9’ x 10’
Installation shot showing Mayorga’s Surveillance Locket series
Our
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
AT AUCTION
Monica Brown, Vice President, Head of Department, Prints and Multiples of Freeman’s | Hindman previews exciting artworks offered at auction on September 26.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF FREEMAN’S | HINDMAN
Jasper Johns (American, b. 1930) Target, 1974
Instantly recognizable for its motif and bright fresh colors, Jasper Johns’ Target stands as an iconic symbol of Johns’ bridge between Abstract Expressionism and Modernism. The handmade paper gives an almost sculptural quality to the edition and is a testament to the eye of one of the most important artists of post-war America.
Alex Katz (American, b.1927)
Samantha, 1987
Alex Katz is well known for his stunning portraits and Samantha stands among his finest work. His masterful eye, equally skilled in framing his subject and selecting the perfect color to capture the mood, is on full display. Making it all the more impressive, the piece stands at just over 5 feet 5 inches tall, giving it a wow factor that multiplies Katz’s genius by a factor of five.
Pablo Picasso (Spanish, 1881–1973) Le Repas Frugal, 1904; printed 1913 etching
Nothing more clearly shows us Picasso’s genius than his etching Le Repas Frugal. Created at the age of 23, the second print he made, with no training in printmaking, it is indisputably one of the greatest graphic works in the history of the medium. The only print linked to his Blue Period, Le Repas Frugal was created in 1904, just after the artist moved from Spain to Paris.
Pablo Picasso (Spanish, 1881–1973) Visage au nez noir, (A.R. 609) including original wooden crate from Madoura, 1969
This remarkable ceramic is the full package for Picasso lovers. Not only is it a quintessential pottery form with the artist’s unique style and whimsical motifs on full display, but it comes with its original crate from the Madoura Studio in Vallauris, France where the famed artist made many of his iconic ceramics. This particular piece has remained in the current owner’s collection since originally purchasing it from the studio in the 1960s.
For more information, visit freemansauction.com.
ON HER NIGHTSTAND
“Currently I’m reading Wish You Happy Forever: What China’s Orphans Taught Me About Moving Mountains by Jenny Bowen. It’s a beautiful memoir that chronicles her efforts to improve the lives of orphaned children in China through her organization, Half the Sky Foundation, now renamed OneSky. The book offers an inspiring look at how dedication and compassion can lead to significant social change. As an adoptive parent myself, I found her story inspiring and well written.”
TRENDING
CHILD ADVOCATE
Before settling in Winnetka, KELLY LASZLO dedicated her career to education and taught in Chicago. This experience honed her leadership and mentoring skills and instilled a commitment to community service and bettering young lives. This year, she is helping to plan the North Shore Board of the Northwestern Settlement’s November 9 gala supporting the beloved House In The Wood camp in Delavan, Wisconsin. The camp offers children from Chicago’s most economically disadvantaged neighborhoods a chance to experience life-changing outdoor adventures. Campers can participate in hiking, canoeing, and environmental education while building confidence, fostering teamwork, and developing a love of nature. Laszlo’s philanthropic efforts extend to The Woman’s Board of the Community House Winnetka, supporting a variety of local programs, including co-chairing the 2025 Home Tour. Additionally, she is a member of Gift of Adoption, an organization that helps provide financial assistance to hopeful adoptive families. Laszlo balances all these commitments with raising her two young daughters, proving the adage “if you want something done, ask a busy person.”
IN HER EARBUDS
“I’m a concert junkie, and music is constantly playing in our home. Right now, I’m loving Teddy Swims, MUNA, and The 1975. I recently started the podcast Time Crisis with Vampire Weekend’s Ezra Koenig. It’s a fun mix of cultural commentary and cool music picks. So far, my favorite episodes feature Bob Weir and Rashida Jones. It’s a laid-back, witty, and entertaining listen, even if you don’t know the band.”
ON HER MOBILE
“When I have time to browse, I enjoy following home decor and fashion. Only on The Avenue is one of my favorite sites. Their tablescapes are always fun to skim through for inspiration, and they have some cute, curated clothing options. I also find M + M Interior Design’s Instagram page (@m_m_interior_design) to be amazing. These two sisters have an eye for mixing old with new, and I love their vision.”
MUNA
Kelly Laszlo wearing Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Neiman Marcus Northbrook
a home store and so much more
ECHOES OF THE PAST
Enjoy an exotic southeast Asian sojourn and a modern take on a classic dish
Stone carved face of Bayon Temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia. Photography by alvarobueno
CITY OF TEMPLES
Discover the ancient majesty of Cambodia’s Siem Reap, while indulging in the modern luxury of Anantara’s Angkor Resort.
WORDS BY DUSTIN O’REGAN
Group of Buddhist monks outside Angkor Wat. Photography by KIMCHHEN LACH
FIRST CLASS
Ihave long been captivated by the Khmer Empire, one of history’s most sophisticated civilizations. More than 300 years before Christopher Columbus’ voyage, the Khmer Empire wielded significant influence across Southeast Asia, encompassing parts of present-day Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. At its peak from the 11th to 13th centuries, the empire surpassed even the Byzantine Empire in size. Renowned as master builders, the Khmer adorned the landscape with majestic temples and pioneered sophisticated water systems. Its temples stand today as enduring symbols of its peoples’ immense power, wealth, artistic brilliance, and architectural ingenuity.
The grandeur of the Khmer civilization was largely forgotten until the 1840s when French explorer Henri Mouhot rediscovered Angkor Wat, the largest of the temples, and reintroduced its splendor to the world. Last May, I returned to Siem Reap for the first time since 2019 eager to introduce my daughter to the influences of this civilization and its many treasures.
I was immediately struck by how much the city had changed. We landed at the brand new, ultra-modern Siem Reap Angkor International Airport, outfitted with fashionable boutiques and trendy cafes and drove through the city on wide, pristine streets—a stark contrast to my previous experience. During my last visit, it wasn’t uncommon to see families of four on a single bike, including babies, without any safety gear whatsoever. To my relief, all motorcyclists were now donning helmets, a detail that brought me peace of mind given my tendency to foretell a myriad of mishaps.
STAY
We chose the Anantara Angkor Resort as our home base. This beautiful boutique hotel, built in 2008, expertly weaves ancient Khmer elements into its architecture, customs, and cuisine. Architectural similarities to Angkor Wat are evident everywhere from the corridor design to the traditional wall carvings. Upon arrival, we were introduced to Khmer culture with a gift of the traditional handmade Cambodian krama—a bright, lightweight cotton scarf with centuries-old origins. Before check-in, the staff invited us to participate in a foot cleansing ritual believed to bring luck.
Anantara Angkor Resort’s Chi Restaurant
Anantara Angkor Resort - Sothea Suite
FIRST CLASS
The dining room, adorned with dark wood and plush seating, is vast, yet cozy. The brass chandelier design is inspired by umbrellas, which offered divine protection to royalty and were often intricately carved on temple walls. As we enjoyed our meals, we felt divinely protected, overlooking an expanse of green encircled by a moat—another homage to Khmer temple architecture. Although the hotel is open-air, inside the resort’s walls the sounds of the city disappeared and it was quiet except for the whisper of Cambodian music.
With refreshed feet and krama-draped necks, we ascended a private staircase to our second-floor suite. Named in honor of the hotel’s muse, the Sothea Suite boasts two bathrooms, a foyer, two patios, a spacious living/sleeping area, and a spa room complete with two baths and spa beds. Anantara’s signature welcome gesture adorned the bed—a display of rose petals and palm fronds spelling “Welcome to Anantara Angkor.” Flanking this message were two “elephants” fashioned from bath towels whose trunk tips and toenails were accented with rose petals.
All suites overlook an open-air courtyard featuring a blue-tiled saltwater pool. Surrounded by lush greenery, the pool is crowned with an immense mother and child sculpture—a sweet symbol of our mother/daughter trip. Delicate blossoms from the peacock trees so perfectly dotted the courtyard’s walkway to the lobby that I was sure someone had meticulously placed each flower.
We enjoyed many meals at Chi Restaurant, situated at the center of the resort. Chi specializes in innovative Khmer cuisine celebrated for its aromatic ingredients and vivid colors. Named after the Khmer word for “herb,” the restaurant integrates local herbs and spices sourced from the chef’s rooftop garden into each beautifully crafted dish.
ACTIVITIES
Temples
The concierge booked a local guru to guide us through the temples and share scholarly insight. Our journey began at Angkor Wat, the largest of the many Khmer temples, shrouded by a dense jungle in the heart of Siem Reap. Built over 40 years by 50,000 laborers with the help of thousands of elephants and constructed with more stone than all the Egyptian pyramids combined, this temple is a wonder to behold. Believed to be the world’s largest religious structure and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, the entire complex is designed as a microcosm of the Hindu universe. Rising from the top of an enormous, terraced temple are five lotus bud towers symbolizing the peaks of Mount Meru (the dwelling place of the gods in Hindu mythology). The moat encircling the temple represents the mythical oceans surrounding the earth, and the temple’s concentric galleries represent the mountain ranges surrounding Mount Meru. Intricate bas-relief sculptures cover the walls depicting epic battles, royal ceremonies, and scenes of daily life. The artistry and craftsmanship are a testament to the ingenuity and majesty of the Khmer civilization.
I recommend visiting before sunrise so you don’t miss the moment when dawn’s first light breaks to reveal Angkor Wat’s silhouette against the sky’s pastel colors. As the sun climbed higher, stone corridors were slightly illuminated, revealing a labyrinthine of cool, shadowed hallways and sunlit courtyards.
Inside the temple, monks’ chants and a faint aroma of incense
Anantara Angkor Resort’s corridor reminiscent of Angkor Wat’s architecture
Khmer influenced cuisine at Chi Restaurant
Anantara Angkor Resort’s pool and interior courtyard
FIRST CLASS
fill the air enhancing the sense of spirituality. Make sure to experience a monk’s blessing—it is customary for the monk to sprinkle water during the blessing, but the experience is well worth a bit of dampness. A small donation is suggested.
En route to the second temple, Bayon Temple, we passed one of my favorite sights—the 54 stone Demon Gods outside Angkor Thom South Gate. Walk up the hill behind the enormous gate to capture a gorgeous photograph of these huge stone faces.
Bayon Temple’s towering walls hold 200 immense faces that gaze out over the city. Monkeys adore Bayon and run around the grounds adding a bit of chattering gaiety to the experience.
At our final temple, Ta Prohm, we observed an ancient dance with nature that created a mysterious atmosphere attracting tourists in droves. Originally established by a Khmer king as a Buddhist monastery and university, today gnarled tree roots seem to hold the ancient stones together while simultaneously tearing them apart. With their massive trunks and sprawling roots, the trees appear to devour this once magnificent structure signaling nature’s inevitable triumph.
While these temples offer beauty in their grand scale and intricate details, they also inspire a sense of peace and contemplation. As I wandered through each one, I felt a deep connection to the past and a profound respect for the artisans.
Temple Run or Bike
As we visited in May temperatures were in the triple digits, so we opted out of the temple run or biking adventures. Guests may jog through the temples with a tuk-tuk (a three-wheeled motorized taxi) nearby in case the heat cuts the journey short, or bike along the top of the temple walls. Both adventures are on my list for next time.
Tuk-Tuk
One day, we hopped in the resort’s tuk-tuk and our driver whisked us around the city. We explored the Royal Palace, visited shops, strolled through street markets, and even ventured to the famous Pub Street, where we ran into a friend from our flight. I appreciated the convenience of the resort’s tuk-tuk service—it removed my worry about the language barrier and currency conversion (I charged it to our room).
Spa
After all the sightseeing, make sure to schedule a spa appointment for a well-deserved dose of relaxation. The spa is an oasis of calm where you feel a relaxation of body, mind, and spirit—even before the treatment. We opted for the Khmer massage, an ancestor of Thai massage, originally designed to rejuvenate monks following extended periods of meditation. This unique massage technique eschews oils, instead relying on the body’s natural moisturizing abilities, and enhances flexibility, energy flow, and circulation.
A trip to Cambodia offers a spiritual journey and an immersion in the country’s ancient history, art, and culture. Don’t hesitate to undertake this unforgettable sojourn.
For more information, visit anantara.com.
A bas-relief sculpture
Anantara Spa
Gateway to the ancient city of Angkor Thom, Photography by oversnap
Faces of Bayon Temple, Photography by Sajdawyt14
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MUSSELS IN WHITE WINE + PERNOD
WORDS, STYLING, AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MONICA KASS ROGERS
RECIPE
Classic preparations of moules marinières (sailor-style mussels) go back centuries in France and Belgium, requiring nothing more than mussels, shallots, white wine, and butter. Chefs worldwide have tweaked the traditional recipe, adding herbs, sometimes cream, and, in my favorite rendition, garlic, gorgeously ripe tomatoes, and Pernod.
Pernod, the anise-flavored French liqueur, goes so well with mussels that I’ve never been able to return to the “just with wine” version. I’ve specified 3 pounds of mussels here, allowing 1 pound for each person for dinner, or there’s plenty for 6 guests if serving as an appetizer. Be sure to have crusty baguettes to soak up the buttery broth. Or, do as the Belgians do and serve with fries and good beer.
Serves 3 for dinner; 6 for appetizers
INGREDIENTS
• 3 pounds mussels, scrubbed clean under running water
• 1 1/2 cups dry white wine (I used pinot grigio)
• Small bunch fresh thyme sprigs
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 3 medium shallots, peeled and sliced thin
• 3 cloves garlic, minced to make 2 tablespoons
• 1 large (or 2 small) very ripe heirloom tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons Pernod
• Small bunch fresh parsley leaves, minced to make ¼ cup
METHOD
Clean mussels
Remove and discard any “beards” (the byssal threads that mussels use to anchor to surfaces) by pulling the threads firmly toward the hinge of the shell until they release. Once well-scrubbed, place mussels in a large bowl of water and rinse again until water runs clear.
Steam mussels
Add the wine to a heavy-bottomed 4-quart enameled pot or Dutch oven. Add mussels and thyme sprigs and cover pot. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat. Immediately reduce heat to low and simmer for five minutes until the mussels have opened. Discard any that haven’t opened. Using tongs, remove mussels and thyme sprigs from pot and keep warm. Do not discard cooking liquid. Pour the liquid from the pot through a fine mesh strainer to remove any grit and set aside to make sauce.
Prepare sauce
In a sauté pan over medium heat, add butter and shallots. Sauté shallots for three minutes until softened. Add garlic and sauté two minutes more. Add the reserved mussel cooking liquid. Roughly break the ripe tomato into pieces and add to the pan. Simmer until the liquid has reduced a bit. Skim off any foam. Stir in 3 tablespoons of Pernod and half of the minced parsley. Simmer for two more minutes.
To serve
Spoon a bit of sauce into three (or six) serving bowls. Divide mussels between the bowls. Top with the rest of the sauce, tomatoes, garlic, and shallots. Sprinkle with the rest of the parsley. Serve hot with crusty bread for dunking and have bowls on hand for discarded shells.
HOUSE & HOME
AN INSIDE LOOK AT CHICAGO’S MOST EXCLUSIVE ADDRESS—THE NORTH SHORE Step inside a David
The façade of 1010 Green Bay Road in Lake Bluff. The David Adler-designed estate is on the market and is featured in Home Tour
HOME TOUR
OH LA LA!
A not-so-petit Green Bay Road chateau by architect David Adler looks better than ever.
WORDS BY THOMAS CONNORS / PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LFCM PARTNERS
HOME TOUR
Compared to some of architect David Adler’s other significant houses on the North Shore—such as the Kersey Coates Reed House, a Georgian manor in Lake Forest he created for Helen Shedd Reed, the daughter of John G. Shedd— the chateau-like spread at 1010 Green Bay Road in Lake Bluff looks almost modest. Maybe it’s the strong horizontality of the façade or the way the slope of the mansard roof seems to bring this not inconsiderable mass down to earth. Adler was admired for his sense of scale and proportion and even when a home sported an abundance of bedrooms, a library, music room, and gun room (as this one did), there was always something reasonable about the spaces Adler fashioned, a generosity not born of scale alone.
Now on the market, this 7,905 square-foot residence was designed by Adler and his partner, Henry Dangler, for Ralph Hutchinson Poole, whose brother, Abram, had been at Princeton with Adler. The Poole family arrived in the Midwest from New
York in 1850. After attending Princeton himself, Ralph went on to become a successful mortgage broker and sat on the Chicago Board of Trade. A noted benefactor of Lake Forest Hospital and the Allendale School for Boys, he and his wife, Marie Wright Richard Poole, were music lovers and warmly supported the Ravinia Festival.
While its interiors were modeled after the 18th-century Hôtel Biron in Paris (now the Rodin Museum), this French-inflected property was more like Miss Havisham’s Satis House when Trent Wisehart, former Executive Vice President of Global Creative Services at Tommy Hilfiger, bought it in 2015. Disrepair was everywhere (the pool hadn’t been opened since 1969), but that didn’t deter him. “I am an avid architecture buff and huge fan of David Adler, and I came to Lake Bluff because of this house,” says Wisehart, who relocated from New Jersey. “Even though it was in terrible shape, I was instantly enamored, and I decided I wanted this house and the work that came along with it. It was not an easy task. Being David Adler’s first commissioned home, I wanted to make sure to be consistent with what he may have done, but at the same time, bring it into a more modern way of life.”
In addition to attending to all the tiresome necessities, like electrical and plumbing, Wisehart made some spatial adjustments to bring the home up to date. “In the past,” he observes, “kitchens were used by staff and were kept separate from the family areas of
Gum wood library
Exterior
Dining room
HOME TOUR
a home, but I wanted the connection. So, I opened a large archway between the kitchen and what used to be the dining room, which I now use as a family room. I later noticed on the original plans of the house, which I still have, that Adler had intended that same arch to be open, but the family required him to close it to keep the staff separate. It made me feel better that this was his original intention.”
Adler’s keenly informed touch is evident throughout the house, from the high-ceilinged foyer with its limestone staircase and plaster reliefs to the library, with its gum wood bookcases and marble fireplace. Wisehart is an avid furniture collector who appreciates a mix of modern and traditional, and his possessions play beautifully with Adler’s architecture. “I like the occasional punch
of unexpected color, but that is usually limited when it comes to a space that I live in,” shares Wisehart. “I like to design spaces for myself that have colors that I would wear in my wardrobe. I live for blue, black, and gray, I feel comfortable wearing those colors, so I want the same colors surrounding me in my home.”
The residence is set on 8 acres that Wisehart also devoted his attention to, eradicating the buckhorn that had invaded the gardens and laying a bluestone terrace patio connecting the home with the two-bedroom coach house. “Saving this house from the wrecking ball has been one of the most amazing experiences of my life and one of the most challenging,” says Wisehart. “Nothing about this project was easy, but I feel so fortunate to have been a steward of this house and I am incredibly blessed to have had the opportunity to call it home.”
1010 Green Bay Road in Lake Bluff is on the market offered at $5,900,000. For more information, please call Ann Lyon at 847-828-9991.
Staircase
Living room
I chose Annie because of her professionalism and track record for helping her clients both through the negotiation process, but also for her reputation for going above and beyond what is needed throughout the entire process. Bringing flowers, light bulbs, anything to help out with the open houses and staging. We had the most wonderful experience with The Flanagan Group.
The process of working with the Flanagan Group was flawless. For a first time home buyer I had a lot of questions and uncertainty around the what was expected of me and what to look for. The Flanagan Group helped to shepherd me through my questions and anticipate my needs. 10/10 would recommend them to all my friends and family.
HOME STYLE
FALL PREVIEW
01 Arteriors Elvis Floor Lamp, arteriorshome.com 02 Tic Tac Toe, theedition94.com 03 Rocco Dining Chair in Kata Schumacher Fabric, chairish.com 04 Deruta Painted Bowl, Hudson Grace, 847-557-0599 05 STARK Carpet x Missoni Home Rug, starkcarpet.com 06 Wildwood Daichi Vase, wildwoodhome.com 07 Nuno Splatter Collection, Hudson Grace, 847557-0599 08 Soho Home Fall 2024 Collection, sohohome.com 09 Cora Sofa in Espresso, chairish.com 10 Hasami Amber Glass Tumbler, unisonhome. com 11 Woven Placemats, unisonhome.com 12 William Morris At Home Fabric, stouttextiles.com 13 Pierre Frey Pillow Set, chairish.com 14 Hasami Porcelain Collection, unisonhome.com 15 Le Creuset Signature Oven Dish, Nordstrom Old Orchard, 847-677-2121 16 Hermès Cocktail Bar, Hermès Chicago, 312-787-8175 17 Salty Caramel Stripe Handblown Murano Glass, theedition94.com 18 Soho Home Fall 2024 Collection, sohohome.com 19 Fleur Vase Collection, Hudson Grace, 847-557-0599 20 Arteriors Durham Chair, arteriorshome.com 21 Soho Home Fall 2024 Collection, sohohome.com 22 Postmodern Spiral Taper Candles, chairish.com
HOME DESIGN
DIRECT TO THE SOURCE
Get your home holiday-ready with Loomcraft’s world-class workroom for custom drapery and upholstery.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SL-F
As the holiday season approaches, now is the perfect time to consider how to make your home warm, inviting, and beautiful for family gatherings and festive celebrations. Loomcraft Fabric Outlet specializes in custom upholstery and drapery services that can transform your living space, ensuring your home is ready to shine during this special time of year. As a one-stopshop that offers free professional design services with trained staff, Loomcraft exceeds expectations.
Many customers underestimate the time it takes to design and execute custom projects, often waiting until the last minute to start their orders. By beginning your shopping now, you can avoid the holiday rush and guarantee that your home looks stunning when guests arrive. Imagine gathering with loved ones around a beautifully reupholstered sofa or enjoying a festive dinner surrounded by chairs that reflect your personal style. Loomcraft’s extensive selection of fabrics—from rich velvets to durable linens—offers endless possibilities to create a cozy, inviting atmosphere that captures the spirit of the season.
Drapery can play a vital role in enhancing your home’s aesthetic. Custom curtains and drapes add elegance and warmth, framing your windows beautifully and controlling light and privacy. With a variety of styles, colors, and patterns available, you can select
drapery that complements your upholstery and overall decor. Whether you prefer flowing sheer fabrics for a soft, airy feel or heavier materials for a dramatic look, Loomcraft’s drapery services provide the perfect finishing touch to any room. Offering custom Roman shades and Pinnacle blinds, Loomcraft saves you money by getting them directly from the source.
As the holidays approach quickly, it’s essential to start your custom projects as soon as possible. By placing your order now, you’ll ensure that your home is beautifully prepared for holiday gatherings. This expert team is ready to assist you in choosing the perfect fabrics and styles to fit your vision, helping you create a space that is both welcoming and festive.
Loomcraft invites you to their open-to-the-public retail store with over 3,000 in-stock designer fabrics, window displays, and accessories. At Loomcraft Fabric Outlet, their team is excited to help you create a beautiful space filled with joy and warmth for the holidays. Start your journey with Loomcraft today to make this season truly memorable.
Loomcraft Fabric Outlet is located at 645 Lakeview Parkway in Vernon Hills, right near the Vernon Hills Police Department and Portillo’s. For more information, call 847-680-1119, email vhstore@loomcraft.com, or visit thefabricoutlet.com.
Megan wearing Azeeza dress and UNDERCOVER by Jun Takahashi shoes. Mabel wearing KHAITE dress, Loewe corset, and Loewe shoes. Photographed with Alma Thomas. Starry Night and the Astronauts, 1972. Purchased with funds provided by Mary P. Hines in memory of her mother, Frances W. Pick.
Curated COUTURE
Celebrate the 15th anniversary of the Art Institute of Chicago’s Modern Wing with a fashionable frolic through its galleries and along the Nichols Bridgeway. The Modern Wing boasts one of the world’s great collections of modern and contemporary art while the Nichols Bridgeway is a Chicago landmark linking the museum to our great city. These two masterworks by legendary architect Renzo Piano have become icons of Chicago architecture and serve as the backdrop for our fall fashion shoot.
WORDS/PRODUCTION BY DUSTIN O’REGAN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RUNVIJAY PAUL
STYLING BY THERESA DEMARIA
ALL CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES SOURCED FROM IKRAM, NEIMAN MARCUS, AZEEZA, AND SWEET WILLIAM
HAIR BY IGOR SHASHKIN
MAKEUP BY LEANNA ERNEST
MODELING BY MEGAN MIELKE AND MABEL TERRY, SELECT MODEL MANAGEMENT
VIDEOGRAPHY BY NATE BRIEVA
STYLE ASSISTANCE BY JULIA PAULMAN AND LOLA EISERMAN
LOCATION: THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S MODERN WING AND NICHOLS BRIDGEWAY
Mabel wearing Rick Owens dress. Photographed on the Nichols Bridgeway, a gift of John D. and Alexandra C. Nichols.
Mabel wearing Maison Rabih Kayrouz dress. Photographed with Jasper Johns. Target, 1961. Gift of Edlis Neeson Collection.
Mabel wearing KHAITE dress, Loewe corset. Photographed with Alma Thomas. Starry Night and the Astronauts, 1972. Purchased with funds provided by Mary P. Hines in memory of her mother, Frances W. Pick.
Mabel wearing Gold Hauk tank, Comme des Garçons jacket, Loewe pants. Photographed with Kazuo Shiraga. Golden Wings Brushing the Clouds Incarnated from Earthly Wide Star (Chikatsusei Maunkinshi), 1960. Through prior purchase from the Mary and Leigh Block Fund, purchased with funds provided by Barbara Bluhm-Kaul and Don Kaul.
Megan wearing Missoni set, Prada belt, and Stuart Weitzman shoes. Mabel wearing Missoni set with Dolce & Gabbana shoes. Photographed with Shirley Jaffe. Linear c 1955. Mary and Leigh Block, Wirt D. Walker, and Walter Aitken endowment funds; purchased with funds provided by Artworkers Retirement Society.
Megan wearing Talbot Runhof dress. Photographed with Jasper Johns. Target, 1961. Gift of Edlis Neeson Collection.
SHANA VITEK
EQUITY PARTNER BEERMANN LLP
DIVORCE WITHOUT COURT: MEDIATION
Mediation is a process frequently utilized in divorce proceedings to resolve both child-related and financial matters. Mediated divorces are typically less expensive and are resolved quicker than litigated divorces. In mediation, spouses and their attorneys agree upon a mediator who is usually a seasoned divorce attorney or a retired domestic relations judge. In some instances, the court will select the mediator for the parties. The parties can attend mediation with or without their attorneys but, either way, should have their own attorneys to consult with before signing off on any mediated agreements. Mediation is not a binding process; the mediator will not take sides and will not make any final decisions for the family. The mediator will guide discussions, as one of the primary advantages of mediation in divorce cases is its focus on preserving relationships. Traditional litigation tends to fuel adversarial dynamics between spouses, further escalating tensions. Mediation, on the other hand, encourages open communication, empathy, and cooperation. By working together to find mutually agreeable solutions, couples are more likely to maintain amicable post-divorce relationships, which is especially crucial when children are involved. In a mediated divorce, couples have greater control over the outcome compared to a court-imposed decision. This empowerment allows individuals to shape their own agreements tailored to their unique circumstances which can lead to more satisfactory and durable agreements, reducing the likelihood of postdivorce disputes.
Shana Vitek is an Equity Partner at Beermann LLP, the largest family law firm in Illinois. For over 20 years, she has practiced family law exclusively and is trained in mediation, arbitration, and collaborative law.
For more information, visit www.beermannlaw.com/team/shana-l-vitek.
HOUSE OF FASHION MENDEL’S NEW
Chloé and Gilles Mendel, co-founders of House of Gilles.
Photography by Masato Onoda
Lainez
Gilles and Chloé Mendel’s House of Gilles celebrates a rich couture legacy.
WORDS BY MONICA KASS ROGERS
It was the wedding dress that clinched it. When world-famous fashion designer Gilles Mendel and his daughter Chloé got together to design the gown for Chloé’s wedding to rock star Billy Corgan, the experience was so enjoyable that they decided to keep the collaboration going. House of Gilles, their new atelier in New York City, is the brilliant result.
“It was so thrilling for us to collaborate and make my wedding gown that we were inspired to start House of Gilles,” says Chloé, known for her Maison Atia eco-friendly luxury outerwear and Madame ZuZu’s in Highland Park.
Gilles explains, “We decided to bring people’s dream gowns to life in a specialized, collaborative way. Visiting our atelier is a must for brides-to-be and their mothers. Many come to New York and visit the major brands that quote them a very high price for something not even one percent of the red-carpet experience they would receive at House of Gilles.”
That Gilles and Chloé, fifth and sixth-generation descendants of the J. Mendel fashion empire, would launch this venture now is a welcome surprise for those who feel the personal element has been lost in the industry.
“We’ve gone back to our roots,” Chloé observes, “Leaving the big studios and huge warehouses to focus on what we truly love: The art and relational aspects of creating for clients. Where else in this country can you meet face to face with a designer of Gilles’ pedigree to create the gown of your dreams?”
“This focus is what I love most about creating couture and dresses,” Gilles notes. “Not having to make four collections a year and rushing to a different country and market every other moment for shows.”
Because their relationship is very close and built on longstanding trust, the two are good sounding boards for one another as they discuss dress designs, what’s happening in the industry, and so much more. “Our skills complement each other very well,”
Chloé Mendel’s wedding dress in process.
Photography by Shervin
Gilles describes. “Chloé is so talented with business and marketing and shaping the perfect experience for clients that I am free to focus on the art and design. I think that’s very rare today—to have the kind of extraordinarily good relationship where we complete each other in so many ways.”
Beyond this, “Our work is rooted in principles of great design and craftsmanship that may sound old fashioned, but we are also very tapped into what is new and happening in the industry, knowing the new developments and applying them,” says Chloé. “We create designs that feel very new but are also timeless.”
Together, the pair endeavor to provide completely specialized experiences for their clientele. “Experiences to mirror the path we followed to make my wedding dress.”
And, what a gown it was! “Chloé brought me pictures of the goddess Artemis as part of the inspiration for the feel of the dress,” recalls Gilles, “We included that with all of the other elements she wanted to distill into the dress—to tell her unique story.”
Chloé Mendel at a fitting for her wedding dress.
Photography by Shervin Lainez
A House of Gilles gown.
Photography by Masato Onoda
“WE WILL ALWAYS HAVE OUR HAND IN MAKING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PIECES WITH A PERSONAL FAMILY TOUCH.”
“We live in a wooded area of Highland Park on Lake Michigan,” explains Chloé, “And I kept thinking of how you can see the lake and the trees and the ravines through the morning mist. I wanted the dress to encompass all of this—to be romantic, dreamy, and a little sexy, without showing too much. Telling my love story through my dress was important to me.”
To get there, Gilles worked with the finest lace maker in France to create lace with a delicate metallic thread running through it to achieve a very light, misty look. He then crafted a bustier—the most important structural component of the dress—and handdraped and micro-pleated 60 yards of the lace over it.
“In the end, even though there was so much fabric, it felt light as air, like there’s almost nothing there,” says Gilles. “That’s the magic of the work I do. Dresses that have great underlying structure, giving whoever wears them security and comfort, but that feel and look ethereal and light.”
House of Gilles’ gowns that are designed for couture clientele follow the same principles and progression, beginning with ideation meetings with Chloé and Gilles then moving to sketches, dress construction, and fittings. This process can take anywhere from three months to one year.
“But not everyone has a year to make a couture gown,” notes Chloé. With that in mind, House of Gilles’ first core collection of made-to-order gowns launches this month. “The collection will serve for beautiful, glamorous events—everything from the Golden Globes, the Emmys, or the Grammys, to galas, weddings, or other important events,” says Chloé. “The gowns can be ready in just weeks, and clients can specify a color choice, beading variations, and other details that will make each gown unique.”
The House of Gilles’ celebration of craftsmanship has the pair thinking back to their early experiences of growing up in the industry. For 150 years, from St. Petersburg to Paris to New York, the Mendel family has been known as purveyors of the world’s finest furs. Gilles was the first to step into high-end dress design.
As a furrier, Gilles’ father was a gifted artisan with long elegant hands, a diamond ring on his pinky, and piercing blue eyes.
“Watching him work was so beautiful,” says Gilles. “There was so much pride and nobility in his work. I can still see him stretching the fur, using an old hammer and nails that had been passed down for generations. It was like he was creating architecture, like a plan of Versailles, the nails lined up like little soldiers all along the board. I honestly think of this all the time ... the nobility and pride of creating beautiful work, because it’s such an emotional and pleasurable thought. I think it’s a big part of the reason I’m returning to couture atelier—I really enjoy and love it.”
Looking ahead? “We’re starting with couture, and eventually, we might move to other things. But right now, the focus is to do something unique and provide an extraordinary experience that people cannot find at any other house in America,” says Gilles.
“We are a brand of uncompromised quality and craftsmanship made in New York. Our growth will always stem from that,”
Chloé concludes. “Where that brings us in the future we can’t foretell. But we will always have our hand in making the most beautiful pieces with a personal family touch.”
For more information, visit houseofgilles.com.
Gilles Mendel working in his atelier.
Photography by Danielle Simone
Chloé’s wedding dress - the inspiration for House of Gilles. Photography by Shervin Lainez
•
SEAMLESS
Craftsman and artist, Cristóbal Balenciaga never dropped a stitch.
For all the audacity of The Met Gala, for all the glitz and glamor of the red carpet, to a fashion fan with a taste for history, there’s something almost magical about the days when “House of” telegraphed a kind of gravitas, and a salon was a sanctum where women of means, more than celebrity, went to replenish their closets. While the world of haute couture endures, the democratization of fashion, the acceptance of street style, and the readiness to mix a luxury outfit with a Target accessory makes one appreciate even more that golden age when couturiers—like Cristóbal Balenciaga—were a special breed indeed.
The son of a fisherman and a seamstress born in 1895, in Getaria, Spain, a village in the Basque country, Balenciaga took to needle and thread early on. At 12, he was apprenticed to a tailor in nearby San Sebastián, where Spain’s Queen Maria Cristina had spent her summers. A decade later, he opened his first boutique and within a few years, employed dozens of people. With the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War, he relocated to Paris, dreaming of giving Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli a run for their money.
Balenciaga—whose life has been captured in a Spanish-made mini-series that aired on Disney+ this year—was over 40 when he opened a boutique at 10 Avenue George V. His creations, which often referenced the line and profile of garments worn by Spanish women, were something fresh and new in the City of Light and the designer soon garnered admirers. Always fastidiously crafted, his clothes became more visually dramatic and were by turns, voluminous and flowing and crisp and geometric.
cut, put together, and sew a suit or a gown entirely alone.”
Aloof and publicity averse (photographer Cecil Beaton opined, “Balenciaga stands apart, like some Elizabethan malcontent meditating upon the foibles and follies of fashion”), the designer nonetheless moved with the times, finding new ways to adorn the female form in a changing world. Simple, but formidably constructed, his work was fundamentally modern. In the 1950s, he detoured from garments that emphasized an hourglass shape, offering up the sack dress (a waistless shift that was gathered below the knee) and the flared, bouncy baby doll dress—a playful, somewhat naughty design that wouldn’t be out of place in a painting by Balthus. When the ‘60s rolled around, Balenciaga fully expressed the era’s energy in such pieces as a streamlined day dress done in florescent orange crepe with deep-cut armholes revealing essentially another dress underneath.
“THE OTHERS ARE DRAFTSMEN OR COPYISTS, OR ELSE THEY ARE INSPIRED PEOPLE OR EVEN GENIUSES, BUT BALENCIAGA ALONE IS A COUTURIER.”
-COCO CHANEL
When Christian Dior introduced his “New Look” in 1947— which challenged the leftover fripperies of the ‘20s, the dourness of the ‘30s, and cast off the financial and material constraints of the war years—fashion entered a truly glorious period of exuberant experimentation with Balenciaga standing at the forefront of this brave new world. Although it was the final product that captivated fashion editors and customers, his peers’ appreciation began with what transpired in the workroom. In a 1951 issue of Paris Match, Coco Chanel asserted, “The others are draftsmen or copyists, or else they are inspired people or even geniuses, but Balenciaga alone is a couturier. He is the only one who can design,
In 1968, with ready-to-wear on the rise, Balenciaga retired. Although a German pharmaceutical interest bought the house, it did little more than produce perfume until the 1980s, when a series of designers came on board to revive the brand, including Nicolas Ghesquière, who made the name shine again. In recent years, Balenciaga has been known for provocative designs and dubious marketing. In 2022, an ad featuring children holding stuffed toys in bondage gear seemed about to deep-six the company. But it survived. This summer, Balenciaga opened its first free-standing store in Chicago, at 15 East Oak Street.
It’s arguable whether the house’s current offerings honor the spirit of its founder, who died in 1972, but Balenciaga has its fans, including Kim Kardashian. Fashion changes, of course, and one woman’s must-have is another’s “no thanks.” But as the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria attests, nothing can diminish the designer’s achievements. In gallery after gallery, one encounters the full range of the designer’s work, artfully framed in minimalist vitrines. Evidence of the master’s conviction that “a couturier must be an architect for plans, a sculptor for shapes, an artist for color, a musician for harmony, and a philosopher for the sense of proportion,” these singular creations stand for something more: a belief in fashion as almost a moral responsibility.
For more information, visit cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com.
Balenciaga orange wool crepe day dress 1968
Balenciaga evening coat in black silk taffeta 1935
Balenciaga evening gown with V-shaped back in black crepe 1967
CHICAGO: PREEMINENTLY PICASSO
WORDS BY JENNIFER A. MORAN
Aone hundred and thirty years since Pablo Picasso’s career as a painter is considered to have begun with his entry into Barcelona’s Escola Provincial de Belles Arts, the artist’s legacy remains a universal force. The late Richard Gray, legendary Chicago collector and one of this country’s foremost art dealers once wrote, “No one involved in any way with the visual arts can fail to be touched by his genius. Picasso’s work has been an ever-present influence.” Perhaps in no other American city is the artist’s pervasiveness felt more than in Chicago.
In 1913, the Art Institute of Chicago became the first museum in the United States to present Picasso’s work. The Arts Club of Chicago debuted his initial solo exhibition in the U.S. in 1923. In 1926, with its acquisition of The Old Guitarist (1903–1904) the Art Institute became the initial American museum to have
Picasso’s work on continual display. The artist’s first monumental sculpture and his largest three-dimensional work, Chicago Picasso (1964–1967) in Daley Plaza, remains one of the city’s great icons. Picasso gifted the 50-foot-tall, 162-ton sculpture to Chicago, and it has continued to capture the imagination of the city and its global visitors ever since.
In a recent conversation, Jay A. Clarke, Rothman Family Curator of Prints and Drawings at the Art Institute, co-curator of the museum’s exhibition, Picasso: Drawing from Life, commented, “Picasso had a unique connection with Chicago.” While the Modern Master never came to America, Clarke notes that there was “something special about Chicago and Picasso. It’s rather intangible, but absolutely, there has always been a defining quality between this city and the artist.”
Discussing the origins of this mutual attraction, Clarke says, “There was what could be called a new Americanism here that probably fascinated Picasso. The city’s transformation [after the
Pablo Picasso
Great Chicago Fire], its cutting-edge architecture, its embrace of new forms, and its brashness, would have appealed to him. The sheer speed of the city, how rapidly it grew and rebuilt itself, was part of what may have also propelled Picasso’s interest.” Reflecting on Chicago Picasso, Clarke remarks, “Representatives from Skidmore, Owings & Merrill (SOM) personally visited Picasso. SOM’s Richard J. Daley Center (1965) is an architecturally significant building, and I think that was something he wanted to be affiliated with. It’s no coincidence that his sculpture stands outside of it.”
At the core of this nexus between Cubism’s creator and Chicago, are the city’s collectors. Clarke observes, “There has always been this sensibility about Chicago collectors. They are forward-thinking risk takers, astute, always pushing the envelope and collecting art of the moment. Absolutely extraordinary and singular in this country really.” Early quintessential Chicago collectors, Bertha Honoré Palmer, who began amassing Impressionist works, and Arthur Jerome Eddy, who pursued German Expressionism, were acquiring works considered avant-garde at the time.
Past Art Institute Director Charles Cunningham once noted, “In few cities in the world has Picasso’s work been collected as extensively as Chicago.” Clarke underscores, “Picasso was keenly aware of the city’s sophisticated art buyers. There are still new stories being uncovered about his interconnection with people in Chicago.” Among Picasso’s many Chicago-based followers were legendary civic leaders like Bobsy Goodspeed, an Arts Club president who was a good friend of Gertrude Stein and often visited Picasso; Margaret Day Blake, the Art Institute’s first female
trustee who purchased his aggressive The Minotaur (1933) as a gift to the museum; Eleanore and Daniel Saidenberg, the artist’s American dealers, who began their careers at the Goodman Theatre and Chicago Symphony Orchestra respectively; and longtime Fifth Ward alderman and lawyer Leon Despres, a collector of Picasso etchings.
A part of this powerful narrative is the decades-long collaboration between Picasso and the renowned Swiss art dealer, Angela Rosengart, who founded the famed Rosengart Collection Museum. A neoclassical landmark in Lucerne, its permanent collection features more than 130 works by Picasso. Now 92, Rosengart first met Picasso when she was 17. Picasso created Rosengart’s portrait five times from 1954 until 1966. During a recent conversation, Rosengart recalled her experiences sitting for him. “It was very exciting. Picasso simply said, ‘Come tomorrow, I’ll do a portrait of you.’ When he worked, I felt as if he were peering into my soul. It wasn’t easy to bear his gaze. I wasn’t allowed to move or speak. After each session, I was exhausted. I must confess I didn’t sleep much the nights leading up to those moments! I was overwhelmed. I felt I had slipped into immortality.”
With her father, the gallerist Siegfried Rosengart, Angela sold Picasso’s Portrait of Sylvette David (1954) to Chicago philanthropists Mary and Leigh Block. The canvas, which now hangs in the Art Institute’s Modern Wing, illustrates French journalist Pierre Daix’s perception that “Picasso relied on his painting to prove that art is the strongest, much stronger than age or the tragedies of [an] era; that it can transform everything.”
From the moment guests entered Recess at City Hall Events for the Joffrey Ballet’s Midsummer Celebration, the mysteries of midsummer unraveled, transporting them to a realm of earthly delights. Accompanied by enchanting nymphs and walking fish heads, partygoers danced the night away with Company Artists, reveling in the aura of the summer solstice. More than 700 guests unleashed their imaginations at the fantastical bash. joffrey.org
Glenn Eden, Carmen Allen, Nichelle and Willie Mayberry
Company Artists Wictor Hugo Pedroso, Davide Oldano, Natali That
Company Artists Ao Wang, Gayeon Jung
Brendan Fernandes
Greg Cameron, Anne Kaplan, Ashley Wheater
LIVING & GIVING
PRO AM & DINNER ON THE BLUFF
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBIN SUBAR
On Saturday, June 22 and Sunday, June 23, the Founders’ Board of Ann & Robert H. Lurie Children’s Hospital of Chicago hosted committed civic leaders, corporate sponsors, and generous golfers for the 64th Pro Amateur Golf Championship & Dinner on the Bluff. Overseeing both events were co-chairs Jackie Magner and Katie Wilhelm. The dinner was held at Shoreacres in Lake Bluff, and the golf event was held at Onwentsia Club in Lake Forest. Attendees raised a record-breaking $2.1 million for Lurie Children’s Heart Center. The Founders’ Board supports the hospital’s mission of providing the most advanced and compassionate healthcare for children and their families. foundersboard.luriechildrens.org
Outgoing Founders Board
President Maureen Seaman with Incoming Board
President Margie Stineman
Rachel Allport, Cheryl Taglia, Kitty Brandtner
Jackie and Casey Magner
Dr. Kiona Allen, Dr. Raj Basu
Naz Green, Steph Duloc, Dan and Whitney Hill
Stuart Lansing
Dr. Greg Webster, Lindsey and Tim Brach
Roshni and Parag Bordia, Krina and Dr. Mehuel Raval
LIVING & GIVING
CCASINO ROYALE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY IAN MCLEOD
itadel Theatre hosted “Casino Royale,” a festive affair on the grounds of Adrian and Nancy Smith’s David Adler estate. The evening featured exotic cars against the backdrop of the estate’s facade, a formal gourmet dinner curated by Froggy’s French Café, and a live auction filled with James Bond-inspired experiences. After dinner, the grounds transformed into a glamorous casino with poolside entertainment. citadeltheatre.org
Andrea Garneata
Elizabeth Friedland and Hector Hernandez
Norbert and Loan Riedel, Nadine and Kirk Shepherd
Brianna and Donovan Meade, Gavin and Shelly Marks
Francesca and Liam Connell
LIVING & GIVING
ZOO BALL
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LINCOLN PARK ZOO
More than 600 philanthropists, wildlife enthusiasts, and animal advocates gathered at Lincoln Park Zoo for the 47th annual Zoo Ball. Hosted by the Women’s Board of Lincoln Park Zoo, the “Wild Everest” themed evening raised $1.7 million, making it the highest grossing Zoo Ball in the event’s history. The evening featured icy décor that transported guests to the Himalayan Mountain range, the home of Sichuan takins, snow leopards, and red pandas. Funds raised support Lincoln Park Zoo’s animal care, welfare, conservation, learning programs, and the 49-acre campus. lpzoo.org
Guests enjoy the carousel.
Scott and Marry MacGregor
Fran and John Edwardson
Peter Litton and Jill Rein
Jennifer Statler, Megan Ross, Jessica Therivel
Caroline Crown, Margaret Croke, Molly Tully
Music from Maggie Speaks
LIVING & GIVING
SSPARK EVENT
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF SHIRLEY RYAN ABILITY LAB
hirley Ryan AbilityLab supporters convened at Rockwell on the River for the annual Spark event to enjoy cocktails, dinner, and a performance by Tony Award-winner Idina Menzel. Jude Reyes and CEO Dr. Pablo Celnik welcomed attendees. The event raised more than $4.3 million, which will go toward advancing science and patient recoveries at Shirley Ryan AbilityLab. sralab.org
Dr. Pablo and Debi Celnik, Shirley and Pat Ryan
Dr. Ishan Roy, Bruce Adreani
Rich and Mary Beth Murphy
Kitty Freidheim, Liz Stiffel
Steve Stryker and Andréa Schwartz, Dina and Rick Lieber, Laura Schwartz
Tony Award-winner Idina Menzel Peter and Carol Goldman
LIVING & GIVING
KERFUFFLE!
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STARBELLY STUDIOS
The ChiArts Foundation hosted its annual spring benefit to support the Music, Theatre, Dance, Creative Writing, and Visual Arts conservatories at The Chicago High School for the Arts (ChiArts). ChiArts’ five arts conservatories are 100 percent donor-funded through the foundation, which raises more than $3 million annually to sustain a tuition-free public arts high school for Chicago’s youth. Samera Ludwig and Mirja Spooner Haffner co-chaired the event, which honored Carol Prins and John Hart for their unwavering support and extraordinary contributions to ChiArts and many of Chicago’s most notable cultural institutions. A vital component to ChiArts Foundation’s annual fundraising efforts, Kerfuffle! raised more than $450,000. chiartsfoundation.org
Greer Reed, Tina Boyer Brown, Pavielle Driver
Johnny Merrifield, ChiArts Foundation Executive Director
Gillian Darlow, JC Aevaliotis, Evette Cardona
John Hart & Carol Prins, 2024 Kerfuffle! Honorees
Mirja Spooner Haffner, Amisha Rigia, Adam Caplan
Dane Melick and Cortney Hall
Tina Boyer Brown, ChiArts Executive Director
Samera Ludwig, Mirja Spooner Haffner
ChiArts Alumni
ChiArts Foundation & ChiArts School Board Members
Keith Allen and Pavielle Driver, Arnett and Greg Faulkner
Joe and Andra Adams, Taylor Atkins, Bryce Cooper, Christine and Greg Gallagher
PUBLISHER’S
DR. STACIE AND MR. RICHARD J STEPHENSON
A Power Couple and Dynamic Duo in Philanthropy and Health.
In the heart of Barrington Hills, resides a power couple whose dedication to health, philanthropy, service, and community has left an indelible mark. Dr. Stacie and Mr. Richard J Stephenson are not just partners in life but also in a mission to transform health care and fund groundbreaking cancer research through Gateway for Cancer Research, of which they are Vice-Chair and Chair, respectively.
Brought together by a business meeting to discuss the impacts of integrative medicine on cancer patients, their joint passion continues to fuel amazing results. Richard J Stephenson, a visionary in health care and philanthropy, was captivated by Dr. Stacie’s intellect and passion for integrative medicine, as well as her evidence-based approach to health and wellness and her commitment to empowering individuals to take charge of their well-being through lifestyle changes. Dr. Stacie, former chair of Functional Medicine at Cancer Treatment Centers of America and two-time bestselling author, was captivated by his moral compass in patient care. Once they got to know each other, the couple realized they shared a common passion: to improve people’s lives, she through teaching about how to create true health through foundational lifestyle changes, he through philanthropic support of cancer research and the creation of game-changing health institutions and nonprofit organizations. Together, they share a deep commitment to enhancing lives and creating health and healing for those around them. The rest is history.
Richard’s dedication to health care stems from a personal loss—the death of his mother to cancer—which inspired him to establish Cancer Treatment Centers of America in 1988. Later, recognizing the gaps in cancer research funding, he founded Gateway for Cancer Research in 1991. Gateway’s focus is exclusively on Phase I and II clinical trials, urgently bringing breakthroughs to the bedside for courageous patients and their families. Gateway has to date funded over 234 clinical trials worldwide, pushing the boundaries of cancer treatment possibilities.
The couple’s commitment extends beyond their professional endeavors. At the annual Gateway for Cancer Research Cures Gala: Tuscany Harvest of Hope, to be held this year on October 26, the Stephensons orchestrate an evening of finding, funding, and furthering innovative cancer research trials. This gala will highlight an elegant, black-tie evening hosted at their Barrington Hills estate with dinner, surprise headlining entertainment, and patient guests as well as discussions on the top research in the field.
Every dollar raised increases the potential for hope and healing, and last year’s event raised more than $3 million in a single evening. This funding fuels transformative research that promises new avenues for cancer treatment, echoing Gateway’s mission to shape a world in which a cancer diagnosis is no longer feared.
Away from their philanthropic pursuits, the Stephensons cherish moments of tranquility amidst their bustling schedules. As mother and father to three small children, they enjoy quiet
moments spent as a family. They find solace in their equestrian lifestyle and indulging in carriage rides through Barrington Hills. Their love for nature and community underscores their profound connection to Illinois, a place they proudly call home despite their national philanthropic reach.
Dr. Stacie and Mr. Richard J Stephenson exemplify the synergy of passion, purpose, and perseverance. Their partnership transcends conventional boundaries, blending health care innovation with compassionate philanthropy. They will continue to navigate, with an unwavering dedication, the evolving landscape of cancer research and holistic health—a testament to the transformative power of their shared vision and commitment to humanity.
In a world where hope often battles adversity, the Stephensons stand as beacons of compassion, leading by example to create a brighter, healthier future for all.
For more information, please contact Natalia Mihilli, natalia.mihilli@gatewaycr.org
Mr. Richard J and Dr. Stacie Stephenson
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB AND DAWN DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN
LPublisher’s Profile
WORDS BY STEVEN BLOCH, M.D. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MONICA KASS ROGERS
PLASTIC SURGERY UPDATE: BESPOKE FACELIFT
ooking your best takes work. Aging is inevitable. At some point, our reflection in the mirror looks older than we feel. This creates anxiety. We can either ignore it or seek the advice of a plastic surgeon.
As part of a consultation, a thorough evaluation is made of the face. Not everyone ages the same. Factors to be assessed include laxity of skin; loss of volume; excess volume; underlying bone structure; skin texture and wrinkles; position of eyebrows; position of cheeks; appearance of eyes; laxity of neck including platysmal bands and submental fat; and appearance of the lips.
The patient’s desires and concerns are paramount. A mutual plan must be agreed upon, costs must be considered, and risks assessed. I must also determine if the patient is realistic.
A bespoke facelift involves more than just tightening the skin. To create a natural look, what is done beneath the skin is important. At a deeper plane the soft tissue may need to be repositioned. Platysmal
neck bands should be addressed. Jowls are lifted. Buccal fat may need to be reduced. Volume or fat grafting may be indicated. Excess fat needs to be removed and the area sculpted. Repositioning of the eyebrows, usually elevation may be warranted. Occasionally the upper lip needs to be shortened. I might have to remove excess skin and underlying bags around the eyes, and this is typically done at the same time. Sometimes fat is added along the rim or upper cheek. Finally, the skin may need to be resurfaced to address fine lines and wrinkles. If everything is done correctly, the result should be a more youthful, refreshed look. It should not look “operated” on.
Once you’ve completed your facelift it’s important to maintain it. At our Med Spa, we have a host of treatments that can slow the aging process and enhance one’s appearance. If that person in the mirror is older than you feel, perhaps it’s time to come in for a consultation.
For additional information, visit bodybybloch.com or Dr. Bloch can be reached at his Highland Park office at 847-432-0840.
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PARTING WORDS
HENRI BENDEL
A new book celebrates the man behind the brand.
WORDS BY LAURA LAYFER TREITMAN / ILLUSTRATION BY ROBERT RISKO
While younger Chicagoans may not be familiar with Bendel’s, the elegant midsized department store that once reigned on Manhattan’s 57th Street and later on Fifth Avenue and on Chicago’s Mag Mile, most fashion mavens will recall the store’s iconic brown and white striped logo. When magazine writer and editor Tim Allis learned that a biography had never been published about Henri Bendel, the store’s founder and retail impresario, he thought “What an interesting character—somebody needs to write about him.”
Founded in 1895 in Greenwich Village, New York, Bendel’s became a fashion destination, offering high-end sophisticated European designers—the first to show Chanel designs in America in 1913—and cutting-edge, up-and-coming labels such as Stephen Burrows in the 1970s. It was the ultimate emporium with dresses, gowns, bridal wear plus all the accouterments required for the au courant woman of style—artistic jewelry, handbags, scarves, make-up, and much more. Yet, the name on the door and the personal story associated with it had escaped much of fashion history profiles and discourse. That was until the slightly parallel lives of Bendel and Allis intersected—resulting in the release of Henri Bendel and the Worlds He Fashioned, out this month and marking Allis’ debut as a hardcover author.
Like Bendel, Allis grew up in Lafayette, Louisiana—where Bendel’s Jewish émigré mother, father, and eventually stepfather ran several businesses. Allis, in fact, lived in a subdivision called Bendel Gardens, named after its former landowner. At Southern Methodist University, Allis majored in theater and English and fell into journalism with a summer internship at D Magazine in Dallas. At 24, he moved to New York where he worked as a staff writer at People, followed by a long tenure as a senior editor at In Style. “Those magazines were a lot of fun and a good fit as I had a big enthusiasm for celebrities and show business,” remarks Allis, who dabbles in playwriting as well. “They taught me the value in tight writing and recognizing the potential of a story like Bendel’s.”
had seen a portrait of Bendel at a Lafayette museum, sparked his curiosity to learn more. “It felt as if Bendel had been hiding in my own backyard,” says Allis, “researching him became a sort of homecoming—I learned a lot about Lafayette, including the various emigrants who powered its growth as a prosperous small city and hub of Cajun culture.”
After working in dry goods in small towns in Louisiana, Bendel married a woman from New York whose family traded in millinery supplies. Less than a year later, she died after losing a baby in childbirth. He stayed in the city and quickly became a top milliner. Hence, the lyric “You’re a Bendel bonnet …” from a song in the Cole Porter musical Anything Goes. Soon, he was a well-known tastemaker in the industry, expanding into dresses and furs and importing French couture. Bendel pioneered clearance sales, wrote a nationally syndicated column about general fashion trends, and eventually opened multiple satellite stores. With his success came great wealth, and he built fabulous mansions and collected fine and decorative art on his frequent buying trips.
Allis reveals that Bendel’s little-known private life was deeply intertwined with his professional endeavors. Bendel’s romantic relationships with two male companions, one who would become president of Henri Bendel and remained at the helm for many years, was a closely guarded secret. “As a gay man, I could easily imagine Bendel’s inner struggles and outward balancing act,” shares Allis. With his partner of nearly 20 years, Jeffery McCullough, a design historian, practitioner, and educator at Kean University, today Allis divides his time between Lafayette and New York City, just as Bendel had done.
Allis came to relate to Bendel’s dichotomy between being old-fashioned and forward-thinking. “A part of him wanted to live in the past but he was also determined to sell for the future.”
Allis hopes the book restores Bendel’s fame and grants him posthumous liberation. “Fashion changes in the blink of an eye,” notes Allis, “but social norms do so very slowly.” It’s in that spirit that he reintroduces Bendel to a present where hopefully acceptance, individuality, and creativity are very much in style.
Allis sometimes passed the store’s final flagship on Fifth Avenue and wondered if shoppers knew the Southern roots of the name on the door. Years later, a conversation with a friend who
For more information visit ulpress.org/collections/coming-soon/products/henri-bendel-and-the-worlds-he-fashioned.
COMMANDING THE SCREEN FROM THE FIRST FRAME CHARLIZE THERON WEARS THE NAVITIMER.