Cooking up an African storm
Taking it easy in the Kruger
Tiveka Limpopo’s hidden treasure
Hiking for joy & health King of Africa: An elephant takes a sand bath at the Mapungubwe National Park which is a Unesco World Heritage Site: Photo: Lucas Ledwaba\Mukurukuru Media
Why Mapungubwe is Africa's pride By Lucas Ledwaba
WE reached the summit of Mapungubwe Hill in the late afternoon. As we stood in awe surveying our surroundings, a gentle breeze swept through the serene mountain top probably as a welcome gesture from the gods. The flat mountain top offers a panoramic view of the awe-inspiring landscape around the Mapungubwe National Park. The park is located some 80km west of the town of Musina in Limpopo province. It is a Unesco World Heritage site owing to its historical and archeological significance to Africa, its people and mankind in general. To the north west of the Mapungubwe
Hill, the awesome beauty of the wide Limpoporiver, on its way to meet with the Shashe begs to be viewed, stared at and appreciated. It is one of those sights of nature that bring an involuntary smile to one’s face. To the east, north and south of the hill, imposing curiously shaped sandstone hills tower over the dry open plains where giant baobabs stretch congruently into the skies like abstract artworks of the gods. In fact, legend has it that baobabs were planted upside down by the gods as an expression of their wrath long before our ancestors set foot on this land. It felt good, proud to be standing at the spot which dispel the myths perpetrated by colonialist that Africans have since time immemorial been a dumb and hopelessly stupid people who owe the
development of their land and enlightenment to European settlers. Yet, standing there left one with a deep-seated pain of curiosity, the one often induced by history. What did they talk about? What did they do when the sun set? Did they sing? If so, what did they sing about? Did they foresee and talk about such a time, when Mapungubwe would be deserted and reduced from the capital of an old African civilization, to a Unesco World Heritage Site that remains the intrigue of scholars, researchers, travelers and historians? How sad that history doesn’t always provide all the answers, but brings up many more which also remain unanswered. It felt good to be standing at the very spot where over 800 years ago, Africans ruled over vast stretches
of land, kept gold artefacts mined and designed by themselves and traded with nations and tribes from across the seas. Our deeply knowledgeable and passionate guides Johannes Masalesa and Cedric Setlhako took us back 800 years, to a time when this hilltop was home to royalty, when earth built huts were perched right here where we now stood. The area was already inhabited by a growing Iron Age community from 900 AD and became rich through trade with faraway places like Egypt, India and China. They say Mapungub-we was a thriving capital of a kingdom that stretched across the Limpopo and Shashe rivers, and that its rulers traded with people from the Orient and from the Arab world. They traded in gold, mined just across the.. continued on page 5.
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My Kruger sojourn daily diary Who says darkies don’t
embrace the pleasures and peace of life in the wild? Amos Mananyetso and his friends have been making an annual pilgrimage to the Kruger National Park for the past 13 years. And this year was no different. He gives us the lowdown of the getaway
August 4
We entered the park through the Phalaborwa Gate on our way to the Mopani Rest Camp 70km away to the north east. We don’t normally expect to this is used mainly to set up camp and prepare meals after a long drive from Gauteng. However, just a few kilometres after driving through the Phalaborwa gate, we hit the jackpot. We spotted a lone leopard sitting still on a giant ant hill. Excited, we stopped and clicked away with our cameras for almost half an hour. The spotted predator never moved an inch all this time. Sometimes that is the beauty of wildlife, intriguing and beautiful even without action.
ON THE PROWL...A leopard on the prowl near Skukuza in the Kruger National Park. Photos: Mukurukuru Media was being visited by a porcupine while having a braai that night.
August 8
This was mostly a rest day which we spent the shopping for provisions, reviewing some of the pictures we had taken and discussing several topics from wildlife to politics and culture.
August 5
We were again on the road traversing the park to our next home for one night, the Letaba Rest Camp. The drive was characterised by sightings of zebras, different herds of elephant and plenty of different antelope. Our camp had an unusual visitor at night when a lone bull elephant that was apparently kicked out of its herd, came grazing very close to our chalets. Though it was an exciting but hair-raising experience to be in such close proximity to this gentle giant of the African bush, it was still a lot better than being in the sights of an armed city tsotsi.
August 6
We were on the road down south after a sumptuous brunch. We were faced with a 160km drive to our next home which we have nicknamed the Kruger’s Sandton as it is the capital of the park and therefore bigger than all camps in the park. It houses most if not all facilities including adminiscamp, airport and a police station among others. The camp also hosted the annual half marathon road race a day earlier. It also boasts a full cricket oval and an 18hole golf course. Another great sighting along
August 9 this route was that of a leopard atop a tree. As if it was posing for us, the leopard gingerly climbed down slowly, offering us different angles for photographs. It eventually hit the ground and disappeared behind the thicket. We also spotted a youngish hyena lingering around the sports stadium near the camp, probably on its way to scavenge as dusk fell.
August 7
The road was calling again and this time we were heading towards Lower Sabie Rest Camp where we were going to spend the last two nights of our stay on the bush. This route is scenic and has different kind of animals along the different landscape. One of the most fascinating things that happened was spotting a lone male lion lying on the side of the road seemingly after having had a good meal. It was still blood splattered around its mouth and was not bothered by the large interest from visitors around it. The highlight of this camp
Normally we never bother with searching for sightings as we make our way out of the park. But this time, luck came when we least expected it. Three lions, a young male and two females, came out of nowhere right in front of our car. So that meant we won the front seat while others were craning their necks behind us. It was a spectacle that lasted for more than an hour as the three beasts paraded on the road while intermittently dashing into the bushes. It appeared as if they had lost the rest of the pride and were trying to rejoin the rest that were already drinking on the banks of the Sabie River. It was a beautiful send off as we embarked on our journey back to the rat race…
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In the footstep of Africa’s civilization pioneers
Continues from page 1... Limpopo in what is now known as Zimbabwe, ivory, pottery, copper and other distinctly African goods. In turn, the traders from across the seas brought with them spices, silk, glass beads, ceramics and other goodies from their native lands. Historical accounts say Mapungubwe was occupied between 1220 and 1290 when it was abandoned for reasons not clear but believed to be linked to either drought or disease. Mapungubwe shot to international prominence in 1932 after a local farmer and prospector Van Graan, accompanied by his son were shown the hill by the cousin of a man known as Mokwena, a descendant of the inhabitants of the kingdom. It is not clear what would have become of the treasures and history of Mapungubwe, had Mokwena’s cousin not broken with tradition which swore locals to secrecy and pointed out the hill to Van Graan. Perhaps the treasures would have remained hidden there and knowledge remained among the local people, and the story of one Africa’s greatest civilizations remained unknown to the rest of the world. Van Graan and his son who was a University of Pretoria student and a group of friends explored the site and uncovered unthinkable treasures, gold plated artefacts, glass beads and a human skeleton. When Van Graan’s son professor at university, thus
began a never-ending exodus of white scholars, explorers, archeologists and researchers to Mapungubwe. Perhaps like the rest of us, they wanted to satisfy for themselves that indeed Africa was civilized long before Europeans set foot
park offers such activities as guided tours to the archaeological and cultural sites, game drives along carefully designed eco routes that do not disturb the natural rugged nature of the area. It is home to four of the Big Five. Buffalo do not roam these lands as a precaution against disease
T
W on these shores. The excavations at Mapungubwe over the years yielded fascinating objects that connect this place in a little corner of Africa, to the world across the seas. It also exposes a people who were industrious, creative craftsmen who also had an expert understanding of metallurgy. In effect Mapungubwe helps to throw the biased colonial history that sought to pain Africa as the ‘dark continent’ into the dustbin. It says Africans have long been on par, or even way far ahead with the rest of the world in terms of technological knowledge and prowess. The centre houses historical artefacts, images and information that takes visitors down memory lane, on the long, journey of the pioneers of Mapungubwe. But Mapungubwe is not all history and no play. The
which could be contracted from cattle that graze on the park’s edges and drink from the Limpopo and Shashe rivers which for the boundary with Botswana and Zimbabwe. On a self-drive around the park, I came across large herds of elephant criss cross the international borders between the three countries at will, just like, perhaps, the Mapungubweans did back in the days before the introduction of passports. Herds of game, zebra, impala, wildebeest graze freely in the plains. The game park’s intimacy makes it easier to spot game and enjoy the abundant birdlife that thrives on the hills. As we approached the Mapungubwe Hill on a game truck, we spotted a herd of more than a dozen elephant powering slowly in our direction. Setlhako carefully brought the truck to a halt.
We waited patiently to allow them to make their way. It was a sight to behold, the gentle giants of Africa moving about freely below the ancient hills. I wondered if this was the sight that the inhabitants of old Mapungubwe lived to see daily. It must have been a good life, I thought. – Mukurukuru Media. Activities at Mapungubwe: Heritage Tours As part of this tour, you will be given the opportunity to visit the elite graveyard at the top of Mapungubwe Hill, view a natural amphitheatre and the entire spectrum of the region, traverse the territory once walked upon by the ancestral Mapungubwe People - now roamed by four of the Big 5. Game Drives Sunset drives and night drives gives you the opportunity to
search for game outside normal gate opening times. Morning Guided Walks Morning guided walks, which allows for up to eight people, offers guests the chance to immerse themselves in the bush and experience the vast natural and cultural heritage of the Park. Bush Braais Experience an unforgettable game drive ends in a dinner in the bush overlooking a dam, surrounded by burning lanterns whilst listening to the sounds of the bushveld and distant animals calling. A minimum of four and maximum of 20 persons can be accommodated, with an age limit of six years. Bush braais must be in advance. -source: https:// www.sanparks.org/parks/mapungubwe/
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Tiveka, Limpopo’s hidden treasure TIVEKA Game Lodge is one of the best accommodation facilities of its kind in the vicinity Limpopo’s capital, Polokwane. However, with growing competition in the sector, the enterprising Tiveka Stellah Mathumbu has an ace up her sleeve to upgrade her lodge, WRITES NAKAMPE LEKWADU plan to add an 18-hole golf course on her property to attract business people and golfers looking for a setting with a lenges. Her property in pristine wilderness is on a massive 132ha land. “It used to be a game farm specialising in hunting when I bought it back in 2006,” explains Mathumbu. “It was a brave step because I did not have the experience to manage such a massive piece of land for commercial purposes. I trusted my intuition and dedication to succeed.” Mathumbu who was born at Ngove village outside Giyani, a 188km northeast of Tiveka lodge is a former teacher, the career she has been for 25 years. As her name Tiveka suggests – be famous in Tsonga – she was destines for greater things. In 2001 she resigned from teaching and went into
business.
Her late start in business was no big deal because Mathumbu is from a business family. “My father was a businessman. He had many shops around Giyani area. As kids we got to help in the shops and that way I also learnt about business. My father wanted us to get education and be independent as professionals but he never said we can’t be business people. Besides, I sold stuff during my school days, like ice After she resigned she relocated to Polokwane to start a new life. “I opened a restaurant and added traditional food on the menu and catered to different government departments in the city, as well as private clients in local communities. People loved my food so much and my dream was to acquire a bigger place where I would be able to display my talent. That’s how the idea of the lodge was formulated.” Tiveka is situated just 33km southwest of Polokwane, along the R101 road to Gauteng. The lodge occupies a pride of in the Eerstegoud valley and at the foothills of the Swartberg mountains. It has facilities and services to cater for day visitors, sleepover travellers and guests who stay for weekends or longer periods.
The lodge offers dining services, conferencing and weddings and other events such as parties and school excursions. “The latter has also inspired me to raise the stakes in as far as accommodation and entertainment of chilkdren and younger people is concerned. I was youth clubs or schools to trust Tiveka for getaways. That’s why plans for suitable facilities are at an advanced stage.” As far as accommodation is concerned, visitors are spoilt for choice. In total there are 64 rooms but in different types of housing, from rondavels to chalets. Other facilities and services to enjoy are game drives, swimming pool, braai areas and a bar. Mathumbu took her love for African traditional cuisine to the lodge, and this has proved to be the magnet for scores of visitors. Even better, the weather in the Swartberg is fantastic all round including winter. “It took me two years to break even, so there were hard times indeed. In addition, in 2008 the Limpopo government departments were placed under administration, and this had a negative impact on the business as they (departments) were among my main clients.
I never gave up, and that also opened my eyes to diversify my marketing strategy. I took my business to social groups, schools, universities and corporate clients. I am someone who doesn’t easily give up.” Mathumbu has indeed come a long way in the 10 years since she bought the property, starting wth six rooms and two employees. Mathumbu has indeed come a long way in the 10 years since she bought the property, starting wth six rooms and two employees. Tiveka today has 64 rooms and 22 full time workers. She bought the property in September 2006 and spent most of 2007 with renovation and construction work to add all the facilities the lodge boasts today, from the reception hall to luxury chalets. Apart from her own savings and pension fund, she was also helped by a Department of Trade and Industry grant. Mathumbu has not stopped dreaming, as she is looking to expand beyond the sports and youth camp facilities she is planning.