edition BRITISH
The FashionArt Magazine Issue One
ÂŁ6.00 Spring/Summer 2011
adverts
contents
knowing 9
desire
Temperley London turns ten 13
iconic
Come into the City 21
curiosity Corrine Day 33
worship
Wave your flag please 37
incoming
new designers 48
editors letter Welcome to edition ‘s first issue. I am so excited to bring you this magazine. It took a while to decide what theme the first issue would be, but what better way to start off than with the British one. Celebrating all good things in britains fashion industry and starting the next decade on a high. Each issue is individual, inspired by the current trends and news, you will want to collect all the editions for keepsakes. Curiosity, worship, incoming, desire, enlighten, obsession…..are just words. However each thought brings photoshoots full of inspiration and excitement, words that will inspire you. With Temperley London turning 10, a visit to the capital, a celerabration of a great photographer and the UK’s new designers, this is just a small taster of whats to come. So from designers to brands to places, I introduce to you edition, british style.
Kaylie Rowe Editor in chief
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Contributors Those who made this issue come alive work
Scarlett Weston
Sarah Taylor
Whilst working as a model in London, Scarlett was asked to help direct the photo shoot. So inspired she became an assistant art director and never looked back. ‘Life behind the lens is so far more interesting than being front of it, the creations are limitless’
Sarah Taylor knew from the day she laid eyes on Mario Testino’s book, she wanted to be a fashion photographer. Since then, the camera never leaves her side ‘its part of my life, everywhere I go I take it with me’.
Dee Allen ’
In walks a woman that can only be Dee Allen. Her presence is rather over whelming, as she has an incredible sense of style. Only in her teens when she got her first styling job, Dee is a recognisable stylist all over the world.
Tess DevereuxFrom her humble beginnings giving her friends makeovers during lunchtimes, makeup artist Teresa Devereux has made a career of beautifying starlets. ‘Painting faces is what I love. Coming from a fashion degree I can convert my inspiration into beauty.’
Katie McCornish Always wanting to be another Kate Moss, Katie didn’t think she was model material until the day she got spotted on the metro home. Looks like the Geordie girl was wrong since modelling for Chanel, Ralph and Chloe ads.
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in the know
The Beauty of Burberry
She Died Of Beauty
The very visual nature of fashion is to manipulate and exaggerate almost everything. Super model Erin O’Connor and Stylist Kate Halfpenny‘s new label She Died Of Beauty is a simple yet concise collection of 5 typographic t-shirts and 2 bags. The inspiration behind their brand name and collection is a small tickle at the fashion industry. The collection has been sourced ethically and organically as they want ‘their precious customer to look good and feel good after all, there is no reason why style and conscience can’t co-exist!’
The Burberry beauty range is beautiful and heritage range. Following magazine shoots and a campaign with Miu Miu, schoolgirl model Nina Porter is now the face of Burberry Beauty make-up, alongside Lily Donaldson and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Only 16 years and spotted at clothes show live, Nina is going to become a big star having already achieved high campaigns, we look forward to seeing more of her.
195’ Collaborations
Pringle of Scotland and The Serpentine Gallery have curated a series of artist’s multiples entitled 195’ collaborations to celebrate their 195th year. These have been inspired by iconic products such as twinset and argyle pattern, and want to help promote Scottish craft. Not just this, they have also teamed up with Tilda Swinton and renowned artist Douglas Gordon to promote this year’s summer ad. -9-
Stella McCartney dresses Britain
Looks like it won’t just be the athletics looking forward to the games. Stella McCartney, one of Britain’s most successful designers, has worked with adidas since 2005, and with the 2012 London Olympics coming up, it’s no surprise that the official sponsor is adidas. McCartney has been named creative director, dressing the British team for the competition. Fashion and sport coming together will be a first for the country and will do Britain proud.
Florals Reworked
Printed dresses for spring and summer are nothing new, but this season’s floral fancies have been given a reworking, making them more interesting than ever. With Erdem injecting geometric prints into classic florals, whilst Vivienne Westwood revisited paisley prints, and Mary Katrantzou got a lot of speculation about her prints. So the little geometric print dress will certainly be a hit this summer.
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desire
T\E MP E R LE Y LONDON
Words &PhotographyKaylie Rowe Clothes Temperley London
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This season Temperley London marks its Tenth birthday. With its medieval inspired bronze, pewter and gold edgy chain mail mesh silhouettes, mixed with romantic pale pink feminine frills and clean white intricate dresses inspired by Guinevere and Arthur, it seemed a perfect balance to celebrate theTemperley London label. Alice Temperley is one of London’s most successful young designers, known throughout the world for her beautiful creations. From the first collection launched at London fashion week 2000, the Temperley London label has become a British phenomenon with its exquisite, intricate, whimsical collections. An out of nowhere designer, came dresses made fit for a princess with liberal sprinklings of ruffles and dusty sparkles. Each collection has a different story, inspired by all things over the world; the creations grow from there producing undoubtedly timeless glamour. Alice grew up in Somerset on her parent’s cider farm. Ever since a young age she has been creative, cutting up one of her mums favourite antique lampshades to make into accessories. She also displayed sense of style from an early age, by dying her hair all different colours to match her hippie neighbour and wore short skirts to school even though it was forbidden.
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Studying art and textiles, Temperley wanted to go to London as she wanted to venture out of the countryside. Studying Fabric Technology and Print at the Royal College of Art, where she learned to use luxurious fabrics to intricate hand-beading to which she used to create her hand-embellished dress to start her label. Working from the fabric upwards, Temperley technique is very rare. Her inspirational designs make girls feel like women. Her designs are constantly evolving. As well as her talent, Temperley has also understood the importance of commercial appeal that has allowed the label to flourish in the last decade. While other British designers are known for their innovative creations, Alice has managed to stay on a steady level and always produce Pieces that are designed to be timeless and versatile and ultimately to flatter, creating clothes to treasure that will last a lifetime. A woman designing for another woman.
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Denim shorts by Topshop Cropped top byTopshop
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iconic
COME INTO THE CITY Topshop takes a walk around Britains capital Photography & Styling Kaylie Rowe Model Christina Diamond
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Coral top by Topshop Feather skirt byTopshop Unique Boots models own right Leather shorts by Topshop Unique Union Jack Top by Topshop
Denim Crop by Topshop Leather Trousers by Topshop Unique
Jumpsuit by Topshop
Playsuit by Topshop Boots Models own
curiousity
CO RI NN E DAY
Remembering Britains controversial Photographer Words Kaylie Rowe
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Challenging fashions conventions and changing the face of the fashion industry forever is what Corinne Day was known for. Her documentary style photography created controversy. By Photographing a skinny young British girl for a photoshoot, instead of using a curvy American model, Day fought against the fashion industry. But the fashion industry soon became obsessed with these waif like models. Capturing the other side of the camera and catwalk, Corinne captured the models in their real light. These were original. The shots didn’t show the glam and lifestyle that was expected to be seen. Influence by the documentary of Nan Goldin, Day found it interesting to capture peoples most intimate moments. Documenting girls with eating disorders, taking drugs, protruding bones and rock’n’roll lifestyles, Corinne was slated for promoting the ‘heroin chic’. But her photography showed the vulnerability of people; a paradox to the empowered, super models. Growing up in London, Corinne was in the created circle. A meeting with a photographer led to a modelling career. However this didn’t last long and soon was taught by her husband to use a camera. It was behind the lens Corinne showed talent. Different from other photographers, she started off by taking photos of her struggling colleges in L.A. Taking her portfolio back to London,
Her wild shots caught the eye of Phil Bicker, the art director of The Face, of which she was commissioned for a shoot, where she shot the 16 year old Kate moss. This was where she got noticed and became a fashion legend. However after the underwear shoot for Vogue, she was criticized for encouraging the ‘heroin chic’ look. People quoted the photos hideous and tragic as it was a difference to what they were used to. However the power of Day’s pictures is that they still seem to echo a moment in British cultural history. Following this controversy, Day took a break from fashion photography and continued with documenting. But in 1996 she was diagnosed with a brain tumour, and though this traumatic experience she asked her boyfriend, director Mark Szaszy to document her struggle. The camera was part of her life and she felt that having pictures of her illness gave her control. Continuing to document intimate moments of her family and close friends. This led to a book ‘Corinne Day’s Diary, documenting 10 years of her life including her time in hospital. Close to the friends she Shortly afterwards she returned to fashion photography working for British and Italian Vogue, until 2009 where she lost her battle with the tumour. Corinne’s success was self-created with her photos being snapshots of the poetic legacy that has been left behind.
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worship
WAVE YOUR FLAG Photography & Styling Kaylie Rowe
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Silk Dress by Winter Kate
Knickers by Stella Mccartney Tutu by Topshop Unique Suede wedges by Topshop left Jumpsuit by Reiss
Dress by Reiss
Navy silk top by Winter Kate right Leather skirt by Lee Piper
incoming
lI F ES
A CATWALK
New and upcoming designers hit the runway Words Kaylie Rowe
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Louise Grey Colour, textures, hand silk screened, specially developed fabrics in woven, embroidered and printed techniques Louise graduated from The Glasgow School of Art in textile design. Central Saint Martins, where she completed her MA. She then went onto to gaining Fashion East sponsorship three times and CFE sponsorship, when she has collaborated with Cotton USA, Judy Blame, Nicholas Kirkwood, the Smiley Company and Crown
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Georgina Hardinge Artistic pieces that have longevity, beauty, distinctive and wearable Graduating from Parsons Paris School of Art and Design in 2008, Hardinge was awarded ‘the Golden Thimble’ for best designer for her graduate collection. She was recognized for creating highly technical and structural pieces which showed her creativity for contemporary design. Her inspiration comes from shapes and sculptures, forming landscape shapes to uniquely accentuate and flatter the femalle silhouette.
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Craig Lawrance Knitting with unconventional materials to create voluminous, fluffy and shiny knits Craig studied at Central Saint Martins. He worked for Gareth Pugh for the first six seasons, of which he create the knitwear for. Recognised for using Kyototex yars for his garments, his designs have already been worn by Tilda Swinton.
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Hermoine De Paula An unparalleled print sensibility and feminine vision with a twist Born from a first class education at Central St. Martins (2002-2006), Hermione de Paula gained work experience for luxury labels such as John Galliano, Giles, Alexander McQueen, and Christian Dior Couture. . Using a signature style of delicate hand-painted and collaged prints and embroideries, which create a softly printed silhouette that dissolves seamlessly into the contours of the female form. Graduating from Central Saint Martins, Hermione centres her inspiration each season on an unconventional female character and each of the pieces possess a sensual magnetism that appears in accordance to the new muse.
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Holly Fulton Graphic print, luxurious materials and hot accessories Holly studied at Edinburgh College of Art and The Royal College of Art. With her digitally printed, full-length monochrome dress in silk jersey walking down the catwalk, its no wonder she is designer to watch out for in the future. Her clothes easy to wear yet luxurious, incorporating a colour combination of black and white and a feel of contemporary elegance. Focusing on expanding the breadth of techniques within Futon’s range of fabrics and the evolution of the surface within these is something that she will be achieving in the future.
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Dominic Jones
A tough, almost aggressive elegance with a luxury finish Since his first collection was shown on the high street two years ago, Dominics work had a huge impact. Dominic studied at the Sir John Cass School of Art and Design, and since then he gone on to achieve many things of which being reconisgned for his knuckleduster ring.
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