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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Inspiration #1: Androgyny
Fashion Trend #1 BOYfriend Bermudas
Fashion Trend #2 Board shorts Fashion Trend #3 Power Suits
Fashion Trend #4 Tailor Made
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Fashion Trend #5 Blush Pink
Fashion Trend #6 Pink Panther
Fashion Trend Forecast
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AN.DROG.Y.NY The combination of masculine and feminine characteristics. Sexual ambiguity may be found in fashion, gender identity, sexual identity, or sexual lifestyle.
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Central color story
15-1307 TCX 19-0820 TCX 19-0910 TCX 11-4201 TCX 19-0303 TCX 19-3922 TCX 19-4227 TCX 19-4215 TCX 14-4203 TCX 16-3916 TCX 16-1511 TCX
FASHION TREND REPORTS
Spring/summer 2015
BOYfriend BERMUDAS GENDERLESS Spring/summer 2015
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he end of the cut off short is here! The designers of Seoul fashion week dropped the hems and expanded the seams of their shorts creating the Boyfriend Bermuda. Most of the shorts seen on the runway were at or below the knee with a noticeably baggier fit. It appeared as if the models had raided their boyfriends’ closets and threw on their shorts before hitting the runways in Seoul. This new trend was refreshing to see because it released the models from the constricting cut off short and gave them a sexy androgynous allure. Since androgyny is the first step in the process of moving towards unisex fashion this trend is directly in line with our genderless forecast. The boyfriend Bermuda trend creates an escape for women allowing them to free their bodies with the new masculine silhouettes. The silhouettes and colors showcased in this trend are proof that womenswear designers have begun to adopt more neutral styles and shapes, which is in fact a big step towards genderless fashion. This trend also breaks the stereotype that women have to be in tight revealing clothing in order to be sexy and feminine. Freeing the female body is empowering and important in the development of women in society. It encourages a sense of equality between the sexes and allows women to be classified as more than just sexy, pretty, and attractive.
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MOVIE A movie that seperates the boys from the women. Tough surfer chicks help establish a trend of long loose shorts. ( 2011)
MUSIC Ever wondered why guys can get away with things that women can’t? Well Ciara addresses the double standards society has set in her single Like a Boy. (2006)
LITERATURE The act of the getting dressed in the morning consists of a series of concious decisions. This book explores the pschology behind why women make the choices they do in fashion. (2014)
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THE INFLUENCERS HISTORY Where would we be without Claire McCardell? Probably still in restricting French garments. One of the first pair of “Pedal Pushers” are seen in the picture to the left. (1905-1958)
MOVEMENT The anti corset movement really educated women on how unhealthy the garment was. The push for freeing the female body became stronger than ever. (current)
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MOOD
BOYfriend Bermudas Spring/Summer 2015
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Youser
Munn
Groundwave
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SHAPE
BROKEN GLASS.
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FABRIC
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ACCESSORIES
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SYNOPSIS
The three designers that we believe showcased the boyfriend trend the best during Seoul fashion week are Youser, Munn, and Groundwave. These designers are at the forefront of a very viable trend. As people begin the shift towards comfort in their everyday lives women are enjoying less constricting garments. What makes this trend viable is that it is easily adaptable to the everyday people who drive the fashion industry. This trend was featured on the runway in September and we are already seeing it on the streets. Sites such as WGSN have already showcased everyday women rocking this trend.
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BOARD SHORTS
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blast from the past was seen on many menswear runways this Spring Summer. The slouchy oversized look made its way into all of the garments shown this season, especially the shorts. Menswears has recently been taken over by the overly polished dapper dan look. However this season designers took an unexpected turn and released the seams on most of their garments. When watching the shows you could feel a sense of relaxation and comfort. As the boys sauntered down the runway they weren’t pent up GQ models instead they reminded us of members of a grunge 90’s boy band. The board short trend is definitely reminiscent of the 90’s but it was shown in a very modern and hip way. As menswear becomes more relaxed we are seeing the silhouettes of the garments lose their firm and structure. This hints directly to the genderless forecast that we have predicted. These shorts have been featured on the runway this Spring Summer in both menswear and womenswear. The shapes of garments have expanded and are now flattering on both bodies.
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MUSIC Feel good classics about fun in the sun the Beach Boys captured those hits better than anyone else. Boys just want to be free and have fun! (1960’s)
MOVIE Alone in the water the deep blue sea is his only friend. This film showcases the simple yet trendy look of board shorts. (2013)
LITERATURE A fun novel about a boy with a very magical surf board can be seen as inspriation to the board short trend we are seeing today in menswear. (1973)
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THE INFLUENCERS HISTORY The Bermuda short was the original version of the board short. This trend was adopted by the English when they were looking for their officers while working in hotter climates. It was then adopted by bankers and other businessmen. (1920’s)
MOVEMENT When the economy begins to take a positive turn people become more invested in leisurely activities. Golf has become the sport of choice for men of all ages and the must have item for this movement is the loose fitting short. (current)
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MOOD
BOARD SHORTS Spring/Summer 2015
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Issey Miyake
Julien David
Givenchy
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SHAPE
OUR GLASS.
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FABRIC
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SYNOPSIS
This trend was seen on a lot of catwalks this season. From Italy to Paris designers showcased their boxy and baggy designs. After reviewing the shows we believe three designers interpreted this trend the best. The first is Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci devoted most of his collection to this trend. Mostly all of his models featured the boxy board short look. The shorts he created were more tailored and could be worn as separates or with a suit. Issey Miyaki really played with color and texture as he showcased his shorts in whites, greys, blues, and stripes. A couple pairs of his shorts featured prints of giant fruits. About 90% of Julien David’s collection was shorts. He really substantiated this entire board short trend for us. His shorts were all over the spectrum some were checkered, some were green, and some were plain black. This trend is definitely a trickle up trend. The baggy shorts have been seen in the steetwear scene for a while and now designers have readopted the idea for the SS 2015 collections. This could definitely be a viable trend just because it is comfortable and can be worn in many stylish ways. It is not the first time we have seen baggy shorts and I have a feeling it won’t be the last.
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POWER SUITS
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W
omen are definitely in power this season. It seems that designers have decided to pay homage this season to the beloved “Le Smoking” Suit trend created by Yves Saint Laurent in the 60’s. While dresses and skirts have not disappeared from the runway it is very clear the women’s pant suit is making a huge return. Some designers have devoted the majority of their Spring Summer 2015 collections to their suits just to showcase their tailoring skills. It’s really nice to see designers pay homage to the classic trends their predecessors have created. The suit trend is one of the strongest trends we have pulled this season because it exemplifies everything we have forecasted for the upcoming season. Society has deemed the suit a menswear garment. For years women were not allowed to wear pants let alone entire suits. However we have progressed drastically from those oppressing times. YSL opened the doors for women’s suits and now many designers have incorporated this sleek garment into their collections. The suit stands for power and now women all over the world are showcasing their power. As the women suited up for these runway shows they regained their power and embraced their femininity in this “masculine” silhouette. Now that both men and women have adopted the suit trend maybe society will no long assign gender roles to garments.
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MOVIE The depiction of the alpha female is shown perfectly in this film. Sarah Jessica Parker does it all and she does it in her tailored suits. (2011)
LITERATURE All women long for that sense of empowerment and independence.#GirlBoss exemplifies women and their entreprenurial spirit. (2014)
MUSIC Who are we? What do we run? The world! No one had delivered the message of womens empowerment better than Beyonce in her hit single Who Runs The World? (Girls) (2011)
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THE INFLUENCERS HISTORY We have come so far from the days where women weren’t even acknowledged. Homage must be paid to our predecessors. (on going)
MOVEMENT The feminist movement prompted much change in womens rights.Women showcased their power in the protests now they are showcasing their power in the workplace. (19th century-current)
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MOOD
POWER SUITS Spring/Summer 2015
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Marc Jacobs
Barbara Bui
Christophe Lemarie
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NO FRAME
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SYNOPSIS
Designers from Paris and New York gave their take on the power suit trend. The three that showcased the trend the best were Barbara Bui, Christophe Lemaire, and Marc Jacobs. Barbara Bui created her rendition on the “Le Smoking” Suit this season with a beautiful white smoking jacket with a plunging V neck collar and tailored pants. Christophe Lemaire stayed true to his aesthetic and delivered clean and classic suit designs with loose silhouettes. Marc Jacobs took a utilitarian approach to the suits he showcased. It’s no coincidence that this trend keeps reemerging on the runways. It is a classic and powerful statement that women love. Since women are taking over the workplace it’s also no surprise that this trend is continuously seen in everyday life. The power suit is a very viable trend that will continue to have a presence in the fashion industry.
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TAILOR MADE
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s summer rolls around one of the trends we are seeing in menswear is the casual suit. Seeing suits on the runway for menswear is nothing new but lately we have gotten used to seeing tight restricting suits. The introduction of a more relaxed silhouette in suiting is relatively new for this time. Many designers have not only loosened the silhouettes but have also introduced the mid sleeve suit. This is very refreshing for men especially in the hot summer months. The overall trend of comfort and practically are definitely seen in this trend. Men are tired of being confined to tight pants and blazers so it is time to release the seams and let them breathe! The addition of more relaxed fits within suiting is a good indication that soon the silhouettes on all suits will become neutral. The suit has always been seen as a masculine garment however with this slight change in silhouette it can now be worn by both women and men. Since women typically have a curvier build than men widening shape of the suit slightly will allow both bodies to fit into suits more comfortable. Soon the suit will be tailor made to fit any and every body.
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MUSIC As long as you have your suit and tie you are ready for the season.The influence of pop culture has solidified this sophisticated style. (2013)
LITERATURE The amazing imagery displayed in this novel sets the tone of this trend. Every man aims to be like Gatsby. (1925)
TV/ENTERTAINMENT This cult classic has taken over the lives of most westerners. These men embody style and power with a classic touch. (2007-current)
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THE INFLUENCERS HISTORY Suits have become a staple in menswear fashion but this garment was not always so popular. The first suit was inroduced in 1666 by King Charles as a court uniforms. (1966)
MOVEMENT The male dandy figure originated in 1979. The dandy was known for having Impeccable style. This figure deviated from the typical masculine style and allowed men to embrace their femininity. (1979)
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MOOD
TAILOR MADE Spring/Summer 2015
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Lanvin
Julien David
Costume National Homme
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SHAPE
FRAMELESS
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SYNOPSIS
Many menswear designers specialize in tailoring suites but some focus more on ready to wear. This season the ready to wear designers dedicated certain pieces in their collection to display their suiting skills. The designers that carried out the casual suit trend the best are Lanvin, Julien David, and Costume National Homme. Lanvin showed a multitude of very classic casual suits ranging from navy, grey, and black. Julien David gave a more 90’s grunge feel to his suits. The few that were shown were baggy and the models all had long scruffy hair covered with backwards caps. The designers for Costume National showcased a variety of colors within their suit selection. It almost appeared that separates were used to create the suits. The casual suit has definitely trickled down into streetwear fashion as men begin to wear the garment to after work or weekend events. While suits are never going to go out of style for men I do believe the more casual fit and style of the suits will become more prominent as we move towards more neutral silhouettes.
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BLUSH PINK
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ink has been a staple in every woman’s wardrobe since the beginning of time. The color is thought to be feminine and is often used to attract the attention of women. This season pink was reintroduced onto the runway, however it was not seen in the same tone. The pinks that were shown on the runways were more muted pinks similar to the tones of blush. This completely changed the feel of the color. Pink was no longer used as a pop of color instead it was a more neutral color that was used in the basics of the collections. The shift that designers have made in the pinks they have chosen this year is a big move towards neutrality within color pallets. By designers using pink as a neutral color it helps detach the gender stereotype of this color. Pink is no longer just a feminine color it is now a universal color that can be worn by both sexes. Colors play a huge role in fashion trends and forecasts so this trend is pivotal in our forecast for genderless fashion. As pink transforms into a neutral color the color pallet for the genderless trend is broadened.
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MUSIC The artist PINK has defied the stereotypes of what the color pink stands for. She makes music that reflects her punk rock vibe. (2000-current)
LITERATURE In the 80’s jail cells were painted pink in the effort to calm angry prisoners. This book explores the way the things in our surroundings affect us throughout life. (2013)
MOVIE The fabulous women of the Pink Ladies were really the stars of the film Grease. They weren’t your typical soft ladies in pink they ran the school in their signature “Pink Ladies” jackets (1978)
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THE INFLUENCERS HISTORY The color pink is now seen as the color of femininity because it became the sole color used to identify newborns females in the (1940�s)
MOVEMENT One of the most popular causes in the US is Breast Cancer. The Breast Cancer Awareness movement has had a huge impact on most western industries including the fashion industry. (current)
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MOOD BLUSH PINK Spring/Summer 2015
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Temperley London
Balenciaga
Stella McCartney
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SHAPE
OUT OF THE BOX.
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FABRIC
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SYNOPSIS
The top three designers that were seeing pink this season in womenswear were Stella McCartney, Temperley London, and Balenciaga. Stella McCartney stuck to her usual aesthetic and showed a pallet of blues and neutrals but the pink she added into her neutral pallet was a dusty rose pink that went very well with the beiges she showcased in the collection. Temperley London’s use of pink was very minimal and could go unnoticed at first glance. The pink used in that collection is so close to white that the white details on the garments are hard to identify if you’re not in person. This kept the color pallet very clean, light, and airy. Balenciaga also followed suit showcasing garments in very faint shades of pink. The pink used in this collection was close to a nude skin tone. The lighter tones of pink displayed this season were very refreshing. As pink becomes more of a basic rather than an accent it is being seen more and more on everyday people. This is a very viable trend because women are tired of looking and feeling like a Barbie every time they wear a pink garment.
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PINK PANTHER
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his season we saw the softer side of men showcased on the runways. Designers unleashed a “repinkization” in their menswear collections this spring summer. The pink trend in menswears is notable because it’s outside of the typical color pallet that is often used in their collections. Seeing pink used on men’s garments is always interesting because it completely breaks all the gender stereotypes assigned to that color. This season we saw everything from suits to shorts shown in pink. Men embracing the “feminine” color pink is a step towards eliminating the gender roles associated with colors. This trend really shows that the fashion industry has the power to change the way people perceive color and trends. We believe this trend will lead into our genderless forecast because it no longer specifies certain colors to certain sexes. The unity of color is being adopted in the fashion industry which will lead into the unity of form creating a unisex trend.
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MUSIC The infamous Kanye West has been seen on many occassions sporting the color pink. It seems that many hip hop artists in the industry have been spotted in pink. Could this be why men are now more comfortable than ever wearing this “feminine” color? ( 90’s-current) MOVIE The Pink Panther is a western series of comedy films that features a pink panther as the main character. Inspector Jacques Clouseau tries tirelessly to catch a very clever diamond thief. (original 1963 remake 2006)
LITERATURE The Men With The Pink Triangle is a moving novel that tells the gripping story of a homosexual living during the Holocaust. While its not often publicised homosexuals often endured the same if not worse treatment as jews. (1980)
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THE INFLUENCERS
HISTORY The ironic fact about the color pink is that is was originally deemed a masculine color. According to a publication released in 1918 by Earnshaw’s Infants’ Department the acceptable color for males was pink and for females the acceptable color was blue. (1918)
MOVEMENT The Pink Panther Movement is led by a LGBTQ organization started By Todd Alan Haley II. The objective of this movement is to eliminate Anti Gay legislation. (started in the 90’s revived in 2012)
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MOOD
PINK PANTHER
Spring/Summer 2015
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Hackett
Lou Dalton
YMC
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SHAPE
BOX ME UP.
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FABRIC
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SYNOPSIS
As designers pushed to make pink a masculine color this season some stood out more than others. Hackett London, Lou Dalton, and YMC are at the top of the list for menswear designers carrying out this trend. Hackett London showed a full suit in a rose color that was breathtaking. Lou Dalton took a different route and created a sports jacket and pants set in the same rose color. He also showcased a well-tailored blazer and a pair of casual shorts in the same color family. YMC didn’t go pink crazy but they did send out a pink blazer and pants set that was very wearable and practical for the average man to wear. Pink has been seen on the streets for years. It seems like men are more daring and want to embrace a more feminine side. We believe this is a very viable trend because pink is shedding it feminine characteristic and becoming a more universal color worn by both sexes.
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FASHION TREND FORECAST
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Unisex
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The human body is presented in two forms female and male. This concept is based on the combination of both forms. To convey a unisex aesthetic through fashion one must deviate from the typical gender forms and silhouettes and explore the concept of genderless forms.
Yoo-nuh-seks
of, designed, or suitable for both sexes; not distinguishing between male and female; undifferentiated as to sex
Khambrea Johnkins & Katava Davis
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Yoo-nuh-seks
Of, designed, or suitable for both sexes; not distinguishing between male and female; undifferentiated as to sex
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Parent Families
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The typical American family is not so typical anymore. In the past the typical family was comprised of a mom, a dad, and their offsprings. Now we have all kinds of families that don’t fit the norm. However statistics show that the most common alternative family is the single parent family. With divorce at an all time high there are no longer a set of parents within a household. As this kind of family has become more prominent we have seen a shift in the gender roles. Moms are now dads and dads are now moms. The changing social construct of the family has effects on many aspects of the world including the fashion industry. As these roles are combined in society they are also becoming more combined in fashion.
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in the workplace
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UPCOMING DESIGNER
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Wesley Berryman is a SCAD Atlanta 2014 graduate. He creates unisex fashion focusing on pushing the boundaries of fashion and gender. By transcending social constructs of gender, a positive message of unity and self-expression is created. His entire senior collection was unisex and was featured in the SCAD fashion show.
RESOURCES
http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Stylesight+Forecast/w/Megatrends/21133 (Megatrend-core) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Stylesight+Forecast/w/Megatrends/21133 (Megatrend-memory) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Stylesight+Forecast/w/Megatrends/21133 (Megatrend-harmony) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Stylesight+Forecast/w/Colour/21132 (Colour-core) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Stylesight+Forecast/w/Colour/21132 (Colour-harmony) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Catwalk+Analysis/w/Apparel_/21004 (Women-Boyfriendbermudas) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Catwalk+Analysis/w/Apparel_/21004 (Men-Tailoredsuits) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Catwalk+Analysis/w/Apparel_/21004 (Men-Shorts) http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Catwalk+Analysis/w/Apparel_/21004 (Women-suits http://nymag.com/thecut/2009/02/ysl.html http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/chanel http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-the-body/drunk-tank-pink http://adamalterauthor.com/book/ http://breastcancerconsortium.net/resources/beyond-awareness-workbook/background/breast-cancer-movement/ http://www.psychologytoday.com/files/attachments/92349/powerofpink.pdf http://fashionista.com/2014/08/unisex-designers http://www.radhourani.com/ http://www.history.ucsb.edu/faculty/marcuse/classes/33d/projects/homo/RachaelMenPinkTriangle.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H76LRIj1dBc http://nymag.com/thecut/2009/02/ysl.html http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/chanel http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-the-body/drunk-tank-pink http://adamalterauthor.com/book/ http://breastcancerconsortium.net/resources/beyond-awareness-workbook/background/breast-cancer-movement/ http://www.psychologytoday.com/files/attachments/92349/powerofpink.pdf http://fashionista.com/2014/08/unisex-designers http://www.radhourani.com/ http://www.history.ucsb.edu/faculty/marcuse/classes/33d/projects/homo/RachaelMenPinkTriangle.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H76LRIj1dBc
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Khambrea Johnkins Katava Davis FASH 419 Current Trends and Forecasting Cristina Kountiou Final Project