Japanese Restaiurant News July 2011

The Magazine for Food Professionals

July 2011, Vol. 21 No. 152 $5.00

Ramen Noodles Front Line

in the U.S. Part 6 アメリカのラーメン最前線 パート 6 Interview Sushi Chef Institute Andy Matsuda

インタビュー スシ・シェフ・インスティチュート アンディ

松田

Los Angeles, CA Permit No. 32641

PRSRT STD U.S. Postage PAID

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May • Vol. 20, No.138

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

May 2010 • Vol. 20, No.138 |3|

July 2011, Vol. 21, No. 152 All Japan News, Inc. SPECIAL REPORT 6 Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S. Noodle Production (Part 3): “Yamachan Ramen” Factory Visit アメリカのラーメン最前線 / 製麺工場見学-「山ちゃんラーメン」

9 Selecting Locations

©2011 All Japan News Inc. All rights reserved.

10 The fighting spirit and cordiality – Human instruction through food Shinsengumi (Hakata ramen at Gardena) 気合と真心―食べ物を通じての人間育成、新撰組博多ラーメン

All Japan News Inc

ロケーション選び

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB 12 Sake Sommelier Club 13 Sake Nation 45 “The oldest automatic beverage vending machine in Japan” 酒豪大陸 45「日本最古の飲料自動販売機」

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15

JFC Annual Sake Tasting Event “Sake Expo & Food Show 2011” -New faces in Japanese Food Industry-

JFC インターナショナル 主催 サケ エキスポ & フードショー 2011 開催 Menus using Japanese sake 日本酒を使った料理

NEWS / TRENDS 16

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Discover Shochu Episode 2: Resonating History & Geography of Its Heartland 焼酎特集 第２話：地域ごとの焼酎の特集

Raising Summertime Profits: JI-BEER Artisan Craft Beer from Japan

夏の売り上げアップ！ 職人が作るこだわりの地ビール 22 Sushi Chef Institute

-Teach how to cook to communicate the heart, a sushi chef training school ―心が伝わる料理を教える。すし職人育成学校― 34 Food Handler Certificates 食品衛生対策

CASE STUDY 21 Measuring work efficiency from adjusting labor costs 人件費の適正化を労働効率から計る

OTHER CULINARY PROFESSIONALS 4 Bistro Anju 2 -Top restaurant that impresses local diners with sushi +α ―ローカルの舌をうならせる寿司＋αの名店―

8 Charitable enterprises to jump-start the economy 2 Various support from the Japanese food industry to aid Japan’s recovery 慈善事業、そして経済活性化へ 日本食業界によるさまざまな日本復興支援のかたち

JAPANESE FOOD HISTORY 32 Chapter 59 Common sense overturned by new ideas 第59章 常識は新しい力によって覆される

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JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

222 S. Hewitt St. Suite 10 Los Angeles, CA 90012 Tel: (213) 680-0011 Fax: (213) 680-0020 E-mail: AllJapanNews@gmail.com

Publisher

Managing Editor

David Kudo

Editor-in-Chief

Hiroshi Kawabata Editor

Keiko Azuma Erika Jones Designer

Ritsuko Lynch Contributing Writers

Atsushi Ashizawa Akihiko Endo Noritoshi Kanai Kosuke Kuji Yuji Matsumoto Aya Ota Elli Sekine Izumi Sunaoka Akiko Tagawa Minako Takizawa Special Thanks to

JBA / JETRO /JRA

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

May 2010 • Vol. 20, No.138 |5|

Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S. ◎◎アメリカのラーメン最前線◎◎

by Elli Sekine

“Yamachan Ramen” Factory Visit 製麺工場見学 -「山ちゃんラーメン」 Part 3

N

ippon Trend Food Service Inc. (NTF), headquartered in San Jose, takes custom noodle orders for over sixty clients locally in northern California and throughout the state. Since their foundation in 1990, NTF, renown for their company brand “Yamachan” noodles, also offers consultation on how to select soup, noodles, and how to start a ramen shop, etc., as one of the companies that ignited the ramen boom in California. Due to President Yamashita’s philosophy, “Noodles are a living matter,” the noodle production process is delicate with no negligence.

サFood service) は、北カリフォルニアをはじめ、カリフォ ンノ ゼ に 拠 点 を 持 つ 製 麺 工 場、ntf ( Nippon Trend

ルニアで６０軒以上のカスタムオーダーを手がけている。９０年 に創業して以来、 「yamachan」ブランドで知られる同社は、スー プ、麺の選び方からラーメン店造りまでコンサルテーションも行っ ており、カリフォルニアのラーメンブームに貢献してきた一企業で ある。麺は生き物である」という山下社長の哲学は、手抜きをし ない繊細な工程管理にあると感じた。

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JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

Flour

Production areas for flour generally used to produce Chinese noodles are: California (approximately 5%), Canada (20%), and Australia (20%) in order.

Half of the flour used to produce ramen noodles used in Japan is from the U.S., while the factory also uses flour mostly from Canada. Because flour milling is an important factor in determining the quality of the noodles, the factory utilizes facilities and technologies closest to Japanese technologies as possible.

Noodle production technology

Chinese noodles are prepared by milling flour and adding alkaline (pH) at the mixture phase to add the flavor and springy qualities of Chinese noodles. The glutenous fiber generated at the kneading stage is smoothed straight to create the springiness. When combined with the soup, the chewiness of the noodles are enhanced.

Noodle production starts when the

milled flour is combined with ingredients in the recipe. Flour, the main ingredient of noodles, kansui (brine water), egg whites, glutin, etc. are appropriately combined.

Elements such as sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium phosphate, etc., and approximately 30 percent of the noodles consist of water.

The quantity of water used is sometimes altered according to the environment and moisture. Noodles are created by combining these ingredients that determines the thickness, firmness, and chewiness of the noodles.

For example, to produce Chanpon noodles with body, the amount of sodium carbonate is increased. All production equipment in the factory is imported from Japan, using the same production methods and technology from Japan. The speed at which flour and water is kneaded is programmed and adjusted to produce noodles with strong body.

Next, the kneaded dough are flattened and layered. Noodles are

小麦粉 一 般に中華 麺に使 用する小 麦 粉 の生 産 地はアメリカ産が約 5 割、その他カナダ産 ２０％、オーストラリア産２０％といった順 番になる。日本でラーメンの製麺に用いる小 麦粉の半数はアメリカ産だが、同工場では 主にカナダ産を使用している。製粉は麺の 性質を決める重要なポイントになる為、同工 場は日本の技術に出来る限り近づける設備 と技術を搭載している。 製麺技術 中華麺は小麦粉を製粉し、混合過程でア ルカリ性にすることによって、中華麺として の風味、弾力性ある性質に変わる。その弾 力性を生み出すのは捏ねる過程で発生する グルテンの繊維をまっすぐ伸ばすことにある という。それをスープに絡み合わすと、その モチモチ感が生かされる。 製麺はまず製粉された粉とレシピの混合か ら始まる。麺の主な原料となる小麦粉、か ん水、卵白、グルテン等をうまく調合する。 成分は炭酸ナトリウム、炭酸カリウム、リン 酸ナトリウムパウダーなどで、麺全体では水 分が約 3 割を占める。従って水との加減も

重要なポイントとなる。環境や湿気に合わせ て水加減を変える事もある。これらの材料 を混合し目的の麺の太さ、硬さ、コシの麺を 作っていく。例えばコシが強く太いちゃんぽ ん用の麺は、ナトリウムを多くし調節をする。 同工場の製麺機械は全て日本から取り寄せ たもので、技術も日本と同じ製麺法によって、 粉と水をこねるスピードを機械にプログラム して調整し、コシの強い麺ができるという。 次に捏ねたドウを重ね合わせ平にしていく。 合計 5 つの麺を引き延ばす機械をゆっくりと くぐり抜け、繊細な注意を払いながらグルテ ンを引き伸ばし、グルテンの性質を引き出し たもっちり感がある麺に仕上げていく。最後 は形を整える特別な機械で縮れなったり、ス トレートになったりする。この時に太さも調 節され、その後パッケージに入り完成となる。 製麺のポイントのまとめ 硬い麺 →強力粉を使用 揚げ麺（皿うどんなど）→サラサラに仕上げ るのに薄力粉を使用 かん水の加減：かん水を入れると、アルカリ 性に変わり黄金色に発色する。入れすぎると 臭みが出るので、見た目を重視するなら、補

GreeNoodle ™

Made with Moroheiya

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

7

carefully put through five equipments that stalls noodles through which glutin is carefully stretched to enhance qualities that give body to the noodles. Lastly, the noodles are put through a special equipment to shape, crimp or straighten the noodles. The thickness of the noodles are adjusted and packaged as a finished product.

Summary of the points of noodle production Hard noodles → Use bread flour Fried noodles (for sara udon, etc.) → Use soft flour to create a loose texture Adjustment of kansui (brine water): When adding the kansui, the noodles turn gold due to the alkaline. When too much kansui is added, the alkaline odor is becomes noticeable. If aesthetics is a concern, add supplementary yellow flavonoid coloring and keep from drying.

When mixing, add flour, powdered egg whites, kansui, glutin, calcium and water retention agent.

To maintain water retention, use propylene glycol and keep from drying.

Afterwards, refrigerate and enjoy. The noodles are best enjoyed within 3 days to a week.

Shelf life of the noodles after preparation

Storage methods for raw noodles must be thoroughly understood according to the distribution method. Before producing the noodles, many restaurant owners calculate the number of days it takes for fresh noodles to be distributed,

purchased and prepared for consumption. Ingredients used to prepare the noodles depend on this factor. *3~4 days shelf life with salt *When Kansui (alkaline) is added, shelf life is extended to 1 week due to the pH *By adding PG, additional 1 month of shelf life. Convenient for distribution. *With refrigeration, 3 months of shelf life. *Shelf life can change by adjusting the concentration of Kansui (alkaline) Difference between U.S. and Japanese culture and noodle production

To expand ramen business in the U.S., noodles are best enjoyed fresh, but at the time of preparation, when placed in soup, the noodles turn soft really fast, so depending on the speed of consumption, the firmness of the noodles must be adjusted.

Adjusting the firmness of noodles: When American diners order ramen, their speed of consumption is slow, so the time it takes for the noodles to soften must be delayed.

Distribution: To locations inland or distanced from the noodle factory, land transportation becomes time consuming.

Usually, noodles are transported to faraway locations in refrigerated trucks.

Environment: Preparation must be done with utmost care to moisture and temperature.

Soup and Balance The ramen soup is made from soup stock (tonkotsu, chicken soup, seafood,

vegetables) combined with base sauce and oils to create a perfectly well balanced soup in which noodles are added to finalize the preparation of ramen. More specifically, high-quality tasty ramen consists of a synergistic balance between the noodles and soup. However, the balance of the

flavor is so deep that even master chefs continue trial-and-errors in their search to create the perfect balance. When opening a ramen shop or adding ramen to your menu, I highly recommend that you obtain advice from a ramen noodle manufacturer.

čśłă §éť„č‰˛çłťă Žăƒ•ăƒŠăƒœăƒŽă‚¤ăƒ‰ ďźˆč‰˛ç´ ďź‰ă‚’čŞżĺ?ˆă ™ă‚‹ă€‚ 　桡ĺ?ˆă Żĺ°?éşŚç˛‰ă€ ç˛‰ćœŤă Žĺ?ľç™˝ă€ 㠋ん水〠グ ăƒŤăƒ†ăƒłă€ ă‚ŤăƒŤă‚ˇă‚Śăƒ ă€ äż?水剤を使用。 ă€€ć°´ĺˆ†ă Žć´ťć€§ă‚’ćŠ‘ă ˆă‚‹ă &#x;ă‚ ă Ťďź°ďź§ďźˆăƒ—ăƒ­ăƒ”ăƒŹ ăƒł hhh ă‚°ăƒŞă‚łăƒźăƒŤďź‰ă‚’ä˝żç”¨ă —ă€ äšžç‡Ľă‚’é˜˛ă ?。 ă ?ă ŽĺžŒĺ†ˇč”ľă § 3 旼㠋ら 1 逹間㠧éŁ&#x;ă šă ”ă‚?ă ¨ 㠪る。

文㠗㠌もă ?ă‚Œă‚’éŁ&#x;ă šă‚‹ć™‚é–“ă Œé …ă „ă Žă §ă€ äź¸ă ł ă‚‹ć™‚é–“ă‚’é …ă ?調節㠙る㠨㠄㠆。 ćľ é€šďźšĺ†…é™¸ éƒ¨ă‚„čŁ˝ éşş ĺˇĽĺ ´ă ‹ă‚‰é›˘ă‚Œă‚‹ĺ ´ ĺ?ˆă€ 陸 蟸 é€ ă Ťă Ż 時 é–“ ă Œă ‹ă ‹ る　 通 常㠯 冡ĺ‡?ăƒˆ ăƒŠăƒƒă‚Żă Ťă Śé ć–šă Ťé…?é€ ă •ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ ç’° ĺ˘ƒďźšćšż 気や渊 庌を皊 ç´°ă Ťĺ?—ă ‘ć­˘ă‚ ă‚‹ç‚şă€ ä˝œă‚Šć–šă ŤĺˇĽĺ¤Ťă Œă „ă‚‹ă€‚ă€€

čŁ˝éşşĺžŒă Žć—ĽćŒ ă Ąćœ&#x;é–“ 　ç”&#x;éşşă Żă ?ă Žćľ é€šă Ťă‚ˆă‚Šäż?ĺ­˜ć–šćł•ă‚’ç†&#x;ç&#x;Ľă ™ ă‚‹ĺż…čŚ ă Œă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚čŁ˝éşşă ™ă‚‹ĺ‰?ă Ťćľ é€šćŠ&#x;関〠䝕 ĺ…Ľă‚Œă Śă ‹ă‚‰ć–™ç?†ă‚’ĺ‡şă ™ă žă §ă Žć—Ľă Ťă Ąă‚’č¨ˆçŽ— ă —ă€ ăƒŹă‚ˇăƒ”ă‚’ä˝œă‚‹ă‚ŞăƒźăƒŠăƒźă Œĺ¤šă „ă€‚ă ?ă‚Œă Ťă‚ˆă Ł ă Śćˇˇĺœ¨ă ™ă‚‹ĺŽ&#x;ć–™ă Œĺ¤‰ă‚?ă Łă Śă ?る。 ďźŠĺĄŠă‚’ĺ…Ľă‚Œă‚‹ă ¨ďź“ďźŽďź”ć—Ľ ďźŠă ‹ă‚“ć°´ďźˆă‚˘ăƒŤă‚ŤăƒŞć€§ďź‰ă‚’ĺ…Ľă‚Œă‚‹ă ¨ď˝?ďź¨ă Œă ‚ ă Œă‚‹ă Žă § 1 逹間㠎äż?ĺ­˜ă Œĺ?Żčƒ˝ă Ťă Şă‚‹ă€‚ ďźŠďź°ďźŽďź§ă€€ć›´ă Ťä¸€ăƒśćœˆé–“ă Žäż?ĺ­˜ćœ&#x;é–“ă‚’ćŒ ă Śă‚‹ă€‚ ă “ă Žĺ ´ĺ?ˆă€ ćľ é€šă Ťă ŻäžżĺˆŠă Œč‰Żă „ă€‚ 更㠍冡ĺ‡?㠙る㠨〠3 ă ‹ćœˆă Žćœ&#x;é–“äż?ĺ­˜ă §ă ?る。 ďźŠă ‹ă‚“ć°´ă ŽćżƒĺşŚă ŽčŞżçŻ€ă §ć—ĽćŒ ă Ąă Œĺ¤‰ă‚?る。

ă‚šăƒźăƒ—ă ¨ă Žăƒ?ăƒŠăƒłă‚š ă€€ăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłă Žă‚šăƒźăƒ—ă Żă‚ŹăƒŠă‚šăƒźăƒ—ďźˆčąšéŞ¨ă€ éś?ă‚Ź ăƒŠă€ é­šäť‹ă€ é‡Žč?œďź‰ă ¨ĺ…ƒă ă‚Œă ¨ć˛šč„‚ă ŽčŞżĺ?ˆă Ť ă‚ˆă‚‹çľśĺŚ™ă Şăƒ?ăƒŠăƒłă‚šă ‹ă‚‰ĺ‡şć?Ľä¸Šă Œă Łă Śă Šă‚Šă€ ăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłă Żă “ă Žă‚šăƒźăƒ—ă Ťéşşă ŒĺŠ ă‚?ă‚‹ă “ă ¨ă §ĺŽŒ ćˆ?㠙る。㠙㠪ă‚?ă Ąă€ ĺŽŒćˆ?ĺşŚă ŽéŤ˜ă „ăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłă Ż ă‚šăƒźăƒ—ă ¨éşşă Œç›¸äš—çš„ă Şăƒ?ăƒŠăƒłă‚šă‚’ä˝œă‚Šä¸Šă ’ă‚‹ äş‹ă §ă Šă „ă —ă „ăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłă ¨ă Şă‚‹ă€‚ă —ă ‹ă —ă ?ă Žĺ‘ł ă Žăƒ?ăƒŠăƒłă‚šă Żç†&#x;硴㠗ă &#x;č ˇäşşă §ă •ă ˆç ”çŠśă‚’çśšă ‘ ă Śă‚‹ă ťă ŠĺĽĽă Œćˇąă „ă‚‚ă Žă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłĺş—ă‚’ 開漭㠗ă &#x;ă‚ŠăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłă‚’ăƒĄăƒ‹ăƒĽăƒźă ŤĺŠ ă ˆă &#x;ă‚Šă ™ ă‚‹ć™‚ă Ťă Żă€ ă‚„ă Żă‚ŠčŁ˝éşşćĽ­č€…ă Ťç›¸čŤ‡ă —ă Śă‚˘ăƒ‰ăƒ? イ゚をもら㠆事を㠊勧゠㠗ă &#x;㠄。

ć—Ľçąłć–‡ĺŒ–ă Žé •ă „ă ¨čŁ˝éşş ă€€çąłĺ›˝ă §ăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłă Žăƒ“ă‚¸ăƒ?゚を幕開㠙る㠎 㠍〠ç”&#x;麺㠯一番瞎味㠗ă ?éŁ&#x;ă šă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹éşşă Ťă Żé • ă „ă Şă „ă Œă€ ă —ă ‹ă —čŞżç?†ă ™ă‚‹ć™‚ç‚šă §ă‚šăƒźăƒ—ă Ťĺ…Ľ ă‚Œă Śă ‹ă‚‰ă Żäź¸ă łă‚‹é€&#x;ĺşŚă Œé€&#x;ă ?㠪る㠎㠧〠éŁ&#x;ă š ă‚‹ă‚šăƒ”ăƒźăƒ‰ă Ťă‚ˆă‚Šă ?ă ŽçĄŹă •ĺŠ ć¸›ă‚’č€ƒć…Žă ™ă‚‹ĺż… čŚ ă Œă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ éşşă Žĺ›şă •ă ŽčŞżçŻ€ďźšă‚˘ăƒĄăƒŞă‚Ťäşşă ŻăƒŠăƒźăƒĄăƒłă‚’ćł¨

Company Data: Nippon Trends Food Services. Inc. 631 Giguere Court, A-1 San Jose, CA 95133 Tel: 408-259-3103 Fax: 408-259-3297 http://www.yamachanramen.com

The  most  professional  and  reliable noodles  company  for  you.

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JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S.

Part 6

by Atsushi Ashizawa Atsushi Ashizawa Restaurant Consultant Contributed to the opening of the first ramen shop in the U.S. in Los Angeles in 1970.

Since then, he’s helped open restaurants nationwide. Participated as a director in Chiba Lotte Marines Spring Camp 1995. Held the first training session for Japanese cuisine in Russia at Saint Petersburg in 2003. Awarded a certificate from the city of Saint Petersburg.

Selecting Locations

ロケーション選び

T

he ramen campaign in the forefront, the industry is tending to expand.

What I hear often is, “I hope a ramen shop opens close by.”

Let’s consider our goals in choosing a location from an expert’s perspective.

I broke down the form of the restaurant location to two choices.

1. Manage a ramen shop from the perspective of a fast food restaurant.

In the state of California, the perfect location is near universities. If a consumer base can be established among university students, staff, associates and local

residents, success is guaranteed. Fast, tasty, reasonable cost, clean, and offer approximately 20 menu items total with combinations of ramen plus gyoza, half serving of fried rice, rice balls, sushi rolls, curried rice, beef bowl, inari sushi and other side orders, etc.

Refer to other competitors for costs to be set between $5.50 ~ $8.00 with a drink. Target the time between taking orders to serving them to approximately ten minutes. Set business hours to be between 11:00AM to 7:00PM and ensure profit is generated. For this style, serving alcohol is not necessary.

Propose a menu with ramen as the main draw, with small pot dishes, plate dishes and combinations. Curried rice, gyoza, inari sushi, sushi rolls, half servings of fried rice, beef bowls, teriyaki,

fried chicken, chicken cutlets, rice balls, menchi katsu, and potato croquette can be combined. For the location, it’s best to choose a place in a region with other competing sushi and yakiniku restaurants. Because the consumer base is local, promotion is easy. Sushi and yakiniku is seen as highly priced compared to ramen and other B-class gourmet foods are seen as being geared towards the general public. Therefore, ramen shops have an advantage. To survive the lagging economy, it’s best to compete by catering to the mass. Also, how to appeal to the younger consumer base will become a task.

ラが拡大傾向にある。

考える。このスタイルでは、アルコールは必 要ないと考える。

2. Choose the location for a Japanese ramen restaurant

ーメン最前線キャンペーンによって業界

最近良く聞く話に、近くにラーメン屋が出 来ればいいね、という話を耳にする。 今回はどのような場所を目標に物件を探せ ばよいか専門的な立場から考えてみる。 まず店舗の形態を２つに絞ってみる。 １．ラーメン店をファストフード的な考え方 で経営する。 カリフォルニア州の場合、何と言っても大 学周辺が絶好のロケーションと言える。学生 や大学の職員などの関係者と、その周辺に住 む住民などを客層に確保出来れば成功は間 違いはない。早い、うまい、安い、清潔を守り、 メニューもラーメンプラスギョウザ、半チャー ハン、おむすび、ロール寿司、カレー、牛丼、 いなり、などのサイドオーダー等で全品２０ 品目。値段は近くの競合店を参考に $5.50 ～ $8.00 ＋ドリンクにする。オーダーを取っ てお客様にサーブするまでの時間を１０分く らいを目安にする。営業時間も午前１１時開 店、午後７時閉店とし十分採算が取れるよう

２．日本食ラーメンレストランとして考える。 ラーメンを主体にしたメニューに小鉢、小 皿などが付くコンビネーションを提案する。 カレー、ギョウザ、いなり、ロール寿司、 半チャーハン、牛丼、テリヤキ、チキンから 揚げ、チキンカツ、おむすび、メンチカツ、 コロッケなどを組み合わせる。 ロケーションには出来る限り近くに競合す る寿司レストランや焼肉レストランなどが多く ある地域を選びたい。すでにこの辺りは食べ に来るお客様が存在するわけだから、プロ モーションが楽。それに加え寿司、焼肉など は値段が高いというイメージがあるが、ラー メンなどＢ級グルメは大衆向きというイメー ジが定着しているので十分有利に働くという 期待が持てる。この不景気を乗り切るには、 絶対数の多い大衆を相手にする商売が生き残 ると考えている。そして若い客層をいかに掴 んでいくかが課題になる。

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

9

Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S. ◎◎アメリカのラーメン最前線◎◎

Text / Photo : Elli Sekine

The fighting spirit and cordiality – Human instruction through food

気合と真心 ー食べ物を通じての人間育成

Shinsengumi (Hakata ramen at Gardena)

A

long-established ramen shop in Southern California, “Shinsengumi” Hakata ramen in Gardena continues to lead the Japanese restaurant industry with original ideas and methods since before the ramen boom. The theme of their restaurant has expanded outside of ramen to yakitori, chanko nabe pot dishes, shabu-shabu up to 11 locations to date. For this issue, we visited the popular Hakata ramen shop “Shinsengumi” in Gardena.

Owner Mitsuyasu Shigeta was born in Tokunoshima, Japan. During college, Shigeta worked part-time at a yakitori restaurant in Fukuoka prefecture, which served as his introduction to the culinary industry. In 1988, Shigeta came to the U.S. after he graduated college. He opened his first yakitori restaurant “Shinsengumi” at merely 26 years old in 1992. Another four years later in 1996, Shigeta hired a chef who owned a food stall “Nagahama Ramen” from Hakata (the home of Hakata ramen) to open Shinsengumi, a Hakata ramen restaurant. The name of his shop was inspired by the name of the yakitori restaurant where he worked and was inspired by, which was a tonsho, a military post. He imagined a connection with “Shinsengumi” who were stationed at a tonsho in naming his ramen restaurant.

Afterwards, Shigeta continued to open new locations in Southern California until today, where he currently manages 11 locations. Each of these locations are

10

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

“specialty” restaurants, where besides ramen and yakitori, Chanko nabe pot dishes, shabu-shabu, robata, and various other dishes are served. Also, “reverse import” to Japan was also attained in 2004, which is rare among restaurants opened in the U.S. His business motto “cordiality” and the name reflects the owner’s nature to cherish “people.”

When I met Ryo Takamoto, Director of Ramen shops, I felt I understood the source of business success. Ultimately, restaurants are established by “people.”

Regardless of the industry, business cannot develop without instructing people or without the “frame of mind.”

As the phrase “The eyes are as expressive of the lips” indicates, his glance is strong with a “purpose.” When visiting the restaurant, I was greeted with staff who shouted “Welcome!” This is a large difference in vibrancy from where I live in Northern California.

Each and every employee worked efficiently and smoothly. Customer service and thorough communication is very close to that in Japan. The menu offers favorite selections in Japan such as ramen, gyoza and fried rice, etc. I filled out the order form that is unique to this restaurant and selected my choices for the amount of noodles, firmness of the noodles, the amount of oil, and the strength of the flavor, etc.

Because this was my first visit, I didn’t understand the “standards,” so I

南な る「Shinsengumi」 博 多 ラ ーメ ン

カリフォルニアで老舗のラーメン店と

(Gardena) は、ラーメンブームの前から斬新 なアイディアと手法でジャパニーズレストラン をリードしてきた。その店のテーマもラーメ ン店以外に焼き鳥、ちゃんこ鍋、しゃぶしゃ ぶまで現在１１軒の店を経営している。今回 ガーディナにある人気の博多ラーメン屋、 「新 撰組」を訪れた。 オーナーの重田光康氏は徳之島生まれ。 大学時 代、福岡のアルバイト先の焼き鳥で の経験が彼を料理界に引き込むきっかけと なった。1988 年日本で大学を卒業すると すぐＬＡに渡米し、語学習得後 1992 年に、 弱冠２６歳で一軒目の店、 「新撰組」焼き鳥 屋を開業した。その４年後の 1996 年、本 場、博多から「長浜ラーメン」の屋台を経営 していた職人を雇い、新撰組、博多ラーメ ンをオープンした。店名は、重田氏が影響 をうけたバイト先の店名が「屯所」だったこ とから、屯所に駐在していた「新撰組 」と のつながりをイメージして付けたという。重 田氏はその後も次から次へと今日に至るま で南カリフォルニアに新しい店をオープンし 続け現在１１軒を構える。その全てが “専 門店” で、ラーメン、やきとり以外にちゃん こ鍋、しゃぶしゃぶ、炉辺に至るまで幅広 い。しかもアメリカで開業したレストランビ ジネスでは珍しい日本での「逆輸入」開業も 2004 年に実現させている。彼の食ビジネ スのモットーである「まごころ」という店名も “人” を大切にするオーナーの人間性が伺える。 ラーメン店統括部長である高本亮氏に会っ た時、ビジネス成功法の根源を知ったような 気がした。結局店は “人” が造るもの。どん な商売でも人の教育や “心構え” 無しにビジ

ネスの進歩はない。 「目は口ほどにものをい う」というが、彼は「目的」を持った力強い 目をしていた。 お店を訪れると、 「いらっしゃいませー」と 元気な掛け声で迎えられた。 私 が 住 む 北 カリフォル ニアとは 大 きな ギャップを感じた。まず活気が違う。ひと りひとりの従業員の動きに無駄がなくスムー ズ。接 客や細かいコミュニケーションは限 りなく日本に近い。メニューはラーメンや餃 子、焼き飯などどれも日本でお馴染みのメ ニュー。さっそくオーダーを同店の特徴でも ある 注文表に書き込む。それには麺の量、 固さ、脂の量、味の濃さ等が客の好みで選 べるようになっている。私は今回初めての為、 「標準」の味がわからなかったので、標準よ り若干あっさり目にしたが少しあっさり過ぎ たようだ。店長は気を遣ってくれて出汁を薦 めてくれた。日本人の中でも味や麺の好みが 別れるのだから人種豊かな米国では好みの 違いも多いに違いない。この注文表はそんな リクエストの多いアメリカだからこそ役に立 つと思った。待ち時間もほど良いタイミング でラーメンが出てきた。 同店の特徴である「博多ラーメン」とは、 基 本的にとんこつスープに細麺ストレート。 「新撰組」のスープは黒豚を１０時間煮込ん だ本格的なもの。細かく分ければ博多ラーメ ンにもまた多くの種類があるが、新撰組は元 祖「長浜ラーメン」を基本としている。細麺 ストレートに “長浜風” あっさり目の豚骨味。 麺はアメリカでは珍しい自家製麺である。博 多麺特有の小麦粉の風味を生かした製法で、 最初は少なめに器に入れてサービスする。こ の食べ方は博多では一般的。細麺は麺が延 びやすいので、最初は麺は少なめで、 「替え玉」

1. Average Price for Lunch/Dinner per Person / ランチ・ディナーの客単価 lunch $10, dinner $14

2. Daily Sales / 一日売上平均 N/A

3. Food Cost Percentage (%) フードコスト

30 %

を注文する。またトッピングも楽しみのひと つである。定番のチャーシューや煮卵以外に も辛みそなどがアメリカ人に人気だそうだ。 値段は＄6.99 からというこちらもサービス価 格。好みのトッピングを加えても＄１０前後で 満足のいくダイニングが出来る。味、サービス、 値段共に “リーズナブル” という表現が相応 しい。50 席ある店で平日 300 食、週 末は 400 食の売り上げがある。 同店は最初の店をオープンして２０年を迎 えようとしているにも関わらず、ますます活 気に満ちている。他の１０店舗も連日フルハ ウスだという。 「店が大きくなれば味が落ちる」 という私のステレオタイプが完全に覆された。 店は大きくなってもその一軒一軒を責任を 持って育てる人が居ればレストランビジネス は栄えるという事なのだろう。このビジネス はいったいどこまで広がるのか。次のステッ プを聞いたところ、 「世界に店を展開させたい」 という答えが返ってきた。時代を超え “進み 続ける” 成功者だからこその言葉である。

chose a lighter flavor than usual, which apparently made the flavor too light. The manager thoughtfully suggested I add some soup stock. Even in Japan, people differ greatly in their taste for flavors and firmness of noodles, so it’s only natural that preferences vary for people of many different races and backgrounds in the U.S. I felt this order form was useful for this reason especially in the U.S. market.

The wait was hardly long before I was presented with my ramen.

The “Hakata ramen,” this restaurant’s specialty ramen, is basically served with tonkotsu soup with skinny ramen noodles. At “Shinsengumi,” the soup stock is prepared by broiling black (Berkshire) pigs for ten hours. If we get specific, there are various types of Hakata ramen, but the style served at “Shinsengumi” is based on the original “Nagahama Ramen.”

Straight noodles served with “Nagahama style” mild tonkotsu flavored soup. The noodles are prepared in-house, rare in the U.S. Using an original style of noodle production with enhanced flavor of the specialty Hakata noodles, the noodles are served in lesser quantity in the bowl. This style of serving is common in Hakata.

Because skinny noodles soften easily, the noodles are served in lesser quantity initially, followed by an order of

4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales Percentage (%) 売上に対するアルコール比率

8%

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 )

Beer/ sake/ shochu

6. Target Customer / 客層

local, Asia, American, Japanese

7. Featured Menu / メニューの特徴

Black pork (Berkshire) tonkotsu soup, flavors of Nagahama ramen stall

8. Food Supplier / 仕入れ先

JFC, Nishimoto, Mutual trading, etc.

9. Number of Staff / 従業員数 30 (Gardena location)

10. Number of Seats / 席数 50 seats

11. Opening Date / 開店年月 June 1996

12. Varieties of Sake in Store

取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋

Otokoyama, Kubota

“extra noodles.” Another pleasure to look forward to is the toppings. The classic favorites such as char siu, broiled egg, and spicy miso are popular toppings with local American diners. The price is $6.99 per bowl and reasonable. Even adding a topping, the price is still around $10.00 and satisfying to customers. Flavors, service and cost-wise, the expression “reasonable” is most appropriate. A store with 50 seats, approximately 300 servings on weekdays and approximately 400 servings on weekends are sold.

Although it’s been almost 20 years since the first location opened, “Shinsengumi” is still bustling with customers.

Other ten locations are apparently bustling throughout the week also. My bias that “the quality of the food drops as the restaurant gets bigger” was completely revoked. Even if a franchise grows, as long as the owner is thoroughly cultivating each and every branch with care, then the restaurant business will succeed.

How big will this restaurant grow? When I asked what the next step was, the owner replied, “to expand this franchise overseas.” These words are most convincing coming from a successful entrepreneur who steps beyond his time to “keep moving forward.”

Shinsengumi 2015 W. Redondo Beach Blvd., #C, Gardena, CA 90247 (310) 329-1335, http://www.shinsengumigroup.com Monday - Friday : Lunch 11:30am - 2:00pm, Dinner 6:00pm - 11:20pm Saturday & Sunday : 11:30am - 11:20pm July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

11

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier Kabuki Restaurant, Beverage Manager

Yoshihide Murakami Manager, Smart Assist LLC

Toshio Ueno Master Sake Sommelier Vice President, Sake School of America

Kats Miyazato Sake Specialist Owner of M&M Enterprise

W

Joe Mizuno

Sake Sommelier

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

Rick Smith & Hiroko Furukawa

Honorary Sake Sommelier.

Owner “SAKAYA NYC”,

Koji Aoto

Kosuke Kuji Nanbu Bijin Inc. Fifth Generation Brewery Owner

Keita Akaboshi

Toshiyuki Koizumi

Manager & Sommelier, Sake Bar “Kirakuya”

Sake Sommelier, Owner “WASAN”

Michael John Simkin

Koji Wong

David Kudo

Sake Sommelier, Sake & Sake Sommelier, MJS Sake Selection Owner Wine shop “Corkage” Savannah Distributing Co.Inc.

Owner Japon Bistro

Honorary Sake Sommelier.

President, All Japan News

hile several Japanese sake tasting events are held annually in recent years, there are about twenty professional sake sommeliers in the U.S., and consumer knowledge about Japanese sake is gradually increasing.

The goal of this report is to contribute to expanding the U.S. market by providing information about Japanese sake to professionals affiliated with the sake industry, sommeliers and Japanese restaurant industry professionals (approximately 80% of the owners are Asian).

We introduce the pairing of Daiginjo, Ginjo, Junmai, Honjozo sake with seasonal dishes specifically enjoyed in spring, summer, fall and winter. We cover the deep flavors of Japanese sake, their compatibility with various dishes, and over ten various flavors of sake enjoyed from hot to cold, depending on the temperature range.

This column from the Sake Sommelier Club was made possible due to our sponsors listed above.

12

Hiroyuki Enomoto

Honorary Sake Sommelier Honorary Sake Sommelier Chairman, President, Mutual Trading Company Inc. JFC International

Chizuko Niikawa-Helton

Head of the “Regional Sake Tasting Club”

Yoshihiro Sako

Noritoshi Kanai

日

本酒試飲会が年に何回か開催されるようになった最近ですが、プロの酒ソムリエは

まだアメリカに 20 人ほどしかいません。消費者の日本酒への理解はまだ途上の最中 です。

このコーナーでは全米で活躍する、酒関係者、ソムリエの方達が、日本食レストラン（オーナー

の８割がアジア人） 、グロッサリーストア関係者に酒知識情報を発信し、市場拡大に貢献する

ことを目的にしています。

大吟醸、吟醸、純米、本醸造などの各種の酒に合った、春、夏、秋、冬の四季折々の料理

とのペアリングの紹介。日本酒の味わいの深さと料理との相性の多様さ。さらに冷燗から熱燗

まで温度帯により１０種類以上の味わい方がある日本酒の魅力を再確認して、皆様のお客様に

ご提案いただければと思います。

尚、酒ソムリエ倶楽部は、上記のスポンサー各社の協力によりこのコーナーが完成しました。

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

Kosuke Kuji

SAKE NATION

酒豪大陸

45

by Kosuke Kuji

The oldest automatic beverage vending machine in Japan

日本最古の飲料自動販売機

W

hile there are many automatic vending machines worldwide, Japan is especially known as the “heaven of automatic vending machines.” Not only sodas, but sake and cigarettes can be purchased from vending machines; which is convenient on one hand, but also controversial due to the easy access minors have to cigarettes and alcohol.

Since when were automatic beverage vending machines have been around? An automatic vending machine for Japanese sake was found from an old warehouse of Nanbu Bijin.

This vending machine, currently donated to the Ninohe Folk Museum, is reported to be the oldest automatic beverage vending machine in Japan by a technical systematization investigative report published by Japan’s National Museum of Nature and Science.

This automatic Japanese sake vending machine functions by inserting a nickel and is driven by spring. The exterior box is made by wood.

One interesting feature besides the

pour spout for Japanese sake is another spout for water, allowing the user to rinse the small sake cup on the spot.

The reason why this old Japanese sake vending machine was found is because my grandfather actually implemented these automatic vending machines.

Back in the days, the front of the brewery served as a pub, where people often stopped by after work to enjoy a drink on their way home.

At the time, servers specialized in serving sake. Servers poured 6 oz of sake from the bottle into the small sake cup and served them to customers. Sake was served in a small sake cup purposefully filled to the brim with a saucer beneath it, which allows customers to enjoy the extra sake that overflowed from the cup.

However, perhaps in an effort to cut labor fees, my grandfather who was eager to try new things implemented this automatic Japanese sake vending machine.

However, this was a big failure. The machine accurately measures the sake to

2006

2006

Fifth Generation Brewery Owner / Nanbu Bijin, Inc. Born May 11, 1972. Entered Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. In 2005 became the youngest person ever to receive the Iwate Prefecture Young Distinguished Technician Award. In 2006 was selected to be a member of the board of trustees of his local alma mater, Fukuoka High School. Currently is featured in a number of media outlets including magazines, radio, and television. *Positions of Public Service: Chairperson, Cassiopeia Corporation Youth Conference; School Board Member, Fukuoka High School, Iwate Prefecture, Vice-Chairman, Technology Committee, Iwate Prefecture Brewers and Distillers’ Association

exactly 6 oz, so the service where customers received extra sake that overflowed from the small sake cup ceased, and the machine was disfavored by customers who felt cheated. The machine was stored and never used, and was in good condition when it was found.

Apparently, if given a choice between having sake served by a machine or a person, people apparently prefer to be served by a person, which hasn’t changed over time.

世特に日本はその中でも自動販売機天国

界にはたくさんの自動販売機があふれ、

と言われます。ジュースはもちろん、お酒や タバコまで自動販売機で気軽に買えるのは 便利ですが、色々と青少年の飲酒喫煙問題 などでも度々自動販売機の是非は話題にな ります。 そんな自動販売機ですが、飲料の自動販 売機はいつ頃からあるのでしょうか？ 南部美人の昔の蔵から発見された日本酒の 自動販売機。 これは現在、二戸民族資料館に寄付してお りますが、この度、日本の国立科学博物館の 技術の系統化調査報告書で日本最古の飲料 自動販売機と報告されました。 この日本酒の自動販売機ですが、５銭白 銅貨を入れて、ゼンマイ仕掛けで動くもので、

外側の箱の部分は木でできております。 特徴として面白いのいは、日本酒の注ぎ口 のほかに、水が出る注ぎ口もあり、お猪口 を自分でその場で洗えるのも面白いと思いま した。 なぜこのような古い日本酒の自動販売機が 見つかったかというと、実は私の祖父がこの 自動販売機を導入しました。 昔は酒蔵の軒先では「もっきり屋」をして おり、仕事帰りの方々が立ち寄り、一杯飲ん で帰るのが普通だったそうです。 当時は専属のお酒をサービスする人がい て、瓶からお酒を一合入るお猪口に入れて飲 んでもらっていました。そのお猪口の下には 受け皿があり、わざとあふれさせてサービス したそうです。お皿にあふれた分だけ多く飲 めるということですね。 しかし、人件費抑制？の目的だったのかど うかわかりませんが、新しいものが好きな私 の祖父はこの日本酒の自動販売機を導入しま した。 そしたら、これが大失敗。機械は正確に一 合をはかってつぎますので、いままであふれ させていたサービス分のお酒がなくなり、お 客さんはケチられたと大不評だったそうです。 それで、そのままお蔵入りしたので、非常に 状態がいいものが出てきたというわけです。 やはり機械についでもらうのと、人につい でもらうのでは人についでもらうのが今も昔 も良いということなんですね。

2010

2010

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

13

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

Text / Photo : Keiko Azuma

JFC Annual Sake Tasting Event “Sake Expo & Food Show 2011” -New faces in Japanese Food IndustryJFC インターナショナル 主催 サケ エキスポ & フードショー 2011

L

ast May 14th, JFC International hosted the 6th “Sake Expo & Food Show 2011” at the Hilton in Orange County, California. The event took place from 12 pm to 5 pm and had about 500 participants. The purpose of the event was to give California companies in the food industry the chance to expand business connections and purchasing opportunities.

The total number of breweries of participating was about 52 breweries (included Sake and Shochu) and it was about 180 varieties of Sake, Shochu, and beer companies. There were foods companies which included where handling fisheries, grains (white rice, brown rice, soy productions etc), Gyoza items, dried products, tea products, sweets, and noodle products.

Some notable differences with past events was the number of new products and newer styles of packaging products, both new and old. Some examples were sake labels which used Anime or that used pictures of luxury on the label on more traditional products. This event seemed to mark a new era in Japanese food culture in America as was seen in the variety of new product trends on display.

For example, a new style of Ramen was introduced. “Tsuke Men” is a style of ramen where the noodles are dipped into a soup instead of being in the soup as is the case with regular ramen noodles. It seems that Ramen is becoming popular in the same was Sushi did years ago. In

14

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

the food industries the idea of derivatives of the traditional Japanese foods will be more popular in the market. Two more examples of new trends in both sushi and beer. Traditionally, sushi rolls have been wrapped in seaweed sheets known as “Nori.” In evidence were many rolls made with Soy paper, but had similar shapes to traditional ones. Suntory Molts was the new face in beer, which was giving the impression of a more high-end beer.

Makoto Kikuchi who was organized this JFC event said, “This year we have seen the trend of Yuzu flavored items, and there have been smaller bottles line-up such as 300ml, 500ml which are easily consumed. And we are able to provide the variety of foods with 17 companies which can match with the variety of Sake selections. We want participants to enjoy themselves and become interested in doing business with us.”

去ル主催第６回「SAKE EXPO & FOOD る５月１４日、ＪＦＣインターナショナ

SHOW 2011」が、カリフォルニア州コスタ メサのヒルトンオレンジカウンティーにおいて 午後１２時から午後５時まで約５００名が参 加して開催された。このイベントの趣旨はレ ストランオーナーや食品関連企業などへの販 売ルート拡大が主な目的。 今回は５２酒蔵（酒と焼酎を含む）から約 １８０銘柄、ビール会社、 水産物、穀物類（お米や、 玄米、大豆の製品）、餃 子シュウマイ、 乾 物 類、 お茶類、甘味類、麺類な どが出品された。 今回のイベントでは新 しい商品のラベル、パッ ケージに独自性を見出し ているものが見受けられ た。アニメ調であったり、 軽やかな、あるいはゴー ジャスな印象を与える新 商品が出品されていた。 伝統的なイメージを醸し つつ斬新さや独自性のあ るものが受け入れられる アメリカでの日本食文化 の新時代への突入が感じ

られた。例えば、ラーメンの試食も従来のスー プの中に麺が入っているものではなく付け麺 という形で出されていた。ラーメンはアメリ カでもスシに次ぐ定着が予想され、付け麺の ような商品が今後受け入れられるだろう。 また、巻き寿司も海草でできたのりを使わ ず、ソイペーパーといわれている大豆原料の シートの紹介が見られた。アルコール飲料で はサントリーのモルツが出品され高級ビール の新たなイメージを提案していた。 今回のイベントを主催した JFC の菊池誠 氏は「今年は柚子フレーバーなど特徴ある酒 を揃えました。 また、300ml や 500ml な ど小瓶の飲み切りタイプも定着してきました。 サントリーのモルツビールも新しい顔です。 さらに、食品業者 17 社が協賛して、お酒に 合った食材も用意でき、大勢の方に当社を認 識して頂いたと思います。」と感想を述べた。

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

SAKE SOMMELIER

酒ソムリエ

by Yuji Matsumoto

Menus using Japanese sake

日本酒を使った料理

R

ecently, I often hear a question asked at Japanese sake lectures, “Can we use Japanese sake in cooking?” While the Japanese don’t think twice about using sake as a condiment, of course to Americans, using wine is a given while the use of Japanese sake is largely unknown.

This time, based on documents published by Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, we will introduce the role of Japanese sake as a condiment as well as secrets and techniques. (When using sake for cooking, we use cooking sake or Junmai) Role Wine is mainly used for western cooking.

Sake is not only used in Japanese cuisine, but also for western and Chinese cuisine.

One trick is to use more sake than the prescribed quantity.

1. Add umami (taste) to enhance flavor Sake eliminates the odor of fish and meat and adds umami (taste). Sake is used to sprinkle or marinate food ingredients before preparation.

2. The odor of food ingredients are eliminated and the food is softened Alcohol evaporates the amino acids that constitutes fish odor, and also has the effects of softening protein.

3. Because sake contains many umami (taste) components, it is compatible

最「料理に日本酒は使えるのか？」という

近、日本酒の講義でよく聞かれるのが、

質問だ。日本人なら当たり前に日本酒（料理 酒）は調味料として使っているのだが、確か にアメリカ人にとってワインは当たり前の調味 料でも日本酒の利用については知らない。 今回は、日本酒造組合中央会から出てい る資料をもとに調味料としての日本酒の役割 と日本人でも知らない日本酒を使った裏わざ・ 隠しわざを紹介しよう。 （料理の酒は、料理 酒または純米を使用する） 役割 ワインは主に西洋料理に使用されるが、日本 酒は和食に限らず西洋にも中華料理にも使用 できる。コツとしては、分量より多めに日本 酒を入れること。 1. 旨みを加えて風味をよくする 魚に限らず肉の臭みを抜き、旨みをプラスす る。調理の前に日本酒をふりかけたり、また 日本酒に漬け込む。 2. 材料の臭みを消し、柔らかくする効果 アルコールには、魚の臭みを構成するアミノ 酸を蒸発させる働きがあり、また、タンパク 質を柔軟にする効果もある。

with other condiments. Adding a small amount of salt greatly enhances the flavor.

Alcohol helps food ingredients absorb the condiments. Salt especially can be used sparingly to enhance flavor. < Secrets and Techniques > For instant noodles Pouring approximately 1 oz of sake into instant noodles right before turning off the heat will enhance flavors unbelievably!

Use sake on cold yakisoba, bento, food items and rice Before microwaving the food, sprinkle some sake to make the food fluffy and tasty.

Sprinkle sake onto hardened cheese If sake is sprinkled onto hardened cheese before covering it with plastic wrap, the cheese will taste great.

Sprinkle sake onto other frozen food Gyoza, shumai, pasta and pizza can also be sprinkled with sake before microwaving to enhance flavors.

To have one portion of sake to 0.5 portion of soy sauce into a squeeze bottle is convenient to have to broil and stir-fry foods. The timing to sprinkle the sauce would be right before the food is cooked and served.

3. 酒には旨み成分が多いので、他の調味 料との相性も良く、少量の塩分を加えるだけ でも美味しく仕上げる アルコールが調味料の素材への吸収力を高 め、特に塩加減は通常より少なくてすむ。 ＜裏わざ・隠しわざ＞ インスタントラーメンに 30cc くらいの酒を火を止める前に入れる とインスタントとは思えない味に。 冷えた焼きそば、弁当、惣菜やご飯に 電子レンジで暖める前に酒を一振りすると ふっくらを美味しくなる 硬くなったチーズにふりかける 少し硬くなったチーズに酒を塗り、ラップ をすれば柔らかくなり、美味しくなる その他の冷凍食品にも日本酒をかける 餃子、シュウマイ、パスタ、ピッザなど何 にでも日本酒を一振りしてから電子レンジで 暖めると風味が増す。 スクィーズボトルに日本酒１に対して 0.5 の醤 油を入れステーキやどんな焼き物、炒め物に も使えるようにしておくと便利。入れるタイミ ングとしては、仕上げ直前にふりかけること。

Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier Finalist of the 2nd World Sake Sommelier Competition. Graduated from Keio University Faculty of Law, Department of Political Science. Worked for Nomura Securities for 10 years.

Former president of California Sushi Academy Former chief of planning dept. at Mutual Trading. Currently working for Kabuki Restaurant Corp. as a Beverage Manager of Sake.

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

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16

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

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July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

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オーガニック Using only the premium Californian rice, Hakutsuru Organic Junmai Sake is carefully brewed with sophisticated skills and techniques.

Ingredients, brewing process, aging process, and bottling process are all USDA certified organic.

Sharp and exhilarating. Dry and light-bodied.

Enjoy this Sake in a wide range from cold to warm/hot, and sweet/dry changes can be enjoyed depending on the temperature.

ALC.14.5% BY VOL. INGREDIENTS:ORGANIC RICE, RICE KOJI SAKE METER VALUE : ＋5

720ML

300ML

C

CASEASE STUDY TUDY

Akihiko Endo

S

Restaurant Management Consultant TM International, LLC.

Measuring work efficiency from adjusting labor costs

Born in Yokohama in 1955. BA from Waseda University in 1979; MBA from Golden Gate University in 1985. Moved to the US in 1980.

After completing his MBA, worked at Golden Bell Communications and Ernst & Whinney in San Francisco. From 1988, has worked as an executive at WDI International, Inc. in Los Angeles.

人件費の適正化を労働効率から計る

P

lease refer to “Servers’ work efficiency chart,” a basic chart that measures the efficiency of a day’s work. “Business hours” are from 10:00AM to 11:00PM. If age 18, then this refers to the hour between 6PM to 7PM. “Number of customers” refers to the number of customers who dined at a restaurant during business hours. If entering information from the Point of System (POS), the number of customers refers to the time their orders were entered into the POS system. There are a total of five servers in a day. The figure 0.5 seen below the “number of customers” and “business hours” indicates 30 minutes, and 1 indicates 1 hour. If B (male) is in the 11:00AM column with 0.5, that means he worked for 30 minutes from 11:30AM to 12:00PM.

Also, I see it as time worked with the number of people. If the subtotal is 2, that means 2 people worked 1 hour each, which means 2 people worked within the hour. If 3, then 3 people; if 2.5, then 2.5 people worked. If the number of customers is divided by the number of

「サ願います。１日の労働の効率を計る ーバーの労働効率チャート」を参照

基本的なチャートです。 「営業時間」は午前 １０時から午後１１時まで。１８ならば午後 ６時から午後７時までの１時間を指す。 「客 数 」 は 時 間 内 に 来 店した 人 数。Point of System ( ＰＯＳ ) から情報を入力するなら ば、注文をＰＯＳに入力した時間の客数にな る。サーバーは１日で計５人。営業時間・客 数の下にある 0.5 は３０分を、１は１時間を 意味する。Ｂ夫が１１時のコラムに 0.5 とあ れば１１時半から１２時まで３０分働いたとい うことになる。又、私は時間と同時に人数の 意味にも取っている。小計で２とあれば２人 がそれぞれ１時間づつ働いたという意味であ るが、その１時間内に２人働いていたと解釈

workers, the resulting figure indicates work efficiency. This figure is the number of customers 1 server served within that time. The higher this number, the higher the work efficiency, but higher doesn’t necessarily mean better. The higher the number of guests served, the more the quality of service suffers.

Hence, the appropriate level of work efficiency must be determined. The column on the right edge is the total number in one day. The lower right 8.2 is the average work efficiency in one day, and the goal is to contain this figure to an appropriate level. Here, not only is the actual time spent serving is included, but also includes preparations prior to serving and clean-up time after serving, and time not spent interacting with customers.

One task is how to shorten the time not interacting with customers.

When reviewing the lunch, A (female) arrives at the restaurant at 11:00AM and starts preparations before customers arrive. B (male) arrives at 11:30AM; C (female) arrives at 12:00 noon. Fifty

customers arrived in the hour between 12:00 noon to 1:00PM. Because three servers are serving, each server serves approximately 17 customers. Whether or not 17 customers is too many or less depends on the restaurant’s concept. If serving 17 customers is too many for one server, then adding a server between 12:00 noon to 1:00PM should be considered to improve the quality of service. In this case, of course the work efficiency will decrease between 1:00PM to 2:00PM. Is this okay? Will one server agree to only work for that one hour? Would it be possible for the manager to help out servers only during that one hour?

In this way, this chart raises many

issues. During my previous employment, I divided the staff into groups: bartender, bus boys, cooks, dishwashers, host/hostesses, prep, and hourly-paid managers (staff members who assume the responsibilities of a manager during certain hours), proposed, created and submitted the chart every week. Not only the results, but I also created weekly estimates. Once the weekly sales are available, the chart is available to compare the estimates to sales results. If the difference is great, then entering the reasons for reference is helpful. I hope this chart serves to help each restaurant to use their labor costs efficiently.

する。３ならば３人、2.5 なら 2.5 人働いて いた、とする。そして客数をその時間の労働 人数で割ると労働効率が出てくる。意味は１ 人のサーバーがその時間内でサービスをした 客数である。その数字が高ければ高いほど 労働効率が高くなる。但し、高ければ良いと いうものでもない。サーブするゲストが多く なれば、それだけサービスの質が落ちてくる。 故に適切な労働効率を見つけなければならな い。右端のコラムは１日のトータルの数字で ある。右下の 8.2 は１日の平均の労働効率で あり、この数字を適当な水準に収めるのを目 標とする。ここには実際にサービスをしてい る時間のほかにサービス前の準備やサービス 後のあと片付けなど、ゲストと接していない 時間も含まれている。ゲストと接していない

時間をどのように短縮していくかというのも 一つの課題である。 ランチを見てみると、Ａ子は１１時に入店し てゲストが来店する前に準備を行う。 Ｂ夫は１１時３０分に入店する。Ｃ子は１２ 時に入店する。１２時から１時間の間にゲス トは５０人。３人でサービスを提供するので 一人につき約１7 人を受け持つ。１７人が多い か少ないかはその店舗のコンセプト次第であ る。１人で１７人のサービスを提供するのが多 すぎると感じるならば、サーバーを１人増や して１２時から１時までのサービスの質を上げ ることを考える。その場合、１時から２時の 労働効率は当然下がってくる。それで良いの か？都合よく１時間だけ働いてくれる人がいる のか？その時間だけマネジャーがサーバーを

助ける事はできないのか？ このように、このチャートは色々な問題提 起をしてくれる。前職においてこのチャート をバーテンダー、バスボーイ、クック、ディシュ ウォッシャー、ホスト ･ ホステス、プレップ、 時間給のマネジャー ( 限られた時間だけマネ ジャーの責任を持つ ) のグループに分けてレ ストランのジェネラルマネジャーに毎週作らせ 提出させていた。実績だけでなく一週間の見 積もりも作らせていた。一週間の実績がでれ ば見積もりと比較できるチャートができてい る。差異が大きい場合理由を記入すると将来 に役立つ。このチャートを個々のお店に合わ して改善し、人件費を効率良く使う道具とな れば幸いです。

2011 FOOD EVENT CALENDAR JULY

57th Summer Fancy Food Show

7/10-12 Walter E. Washington Convention Center.

Washington DC www.specialityfood.com North America’s Largest Specialty Food & Beverage Event is coming to Washington D.C. this July! 180,000 products including confections, cheese, coffee, snacks, spices, ethnic, natural, organic and more. 2,400 exhibitors, 80 countries represented and 24,000 attendees.

Raw Health Expo 2011

7/23-24 Sonoma County, California www.rawhealthexpo.com The Raw Health Expo is dedicated to educating the public about all aspects of the Living and Raw Foods Plant-Based Lifestyle. Which not only includes dietary choices, but extends further to living a sustainable lifestyle, such as growing your own food and reducing toxins in your

life. advocate the use of a raw/living food vegetarian (vegan) diet for improved health for a variety of reasons.

AUGUST

SF Chefs 2011

8/1-7 San Francisco, California www.sfchefs2011.com program is in development and details are being finalized every day! Check back for the scoop on participating chefs and restaurants as well as programming details.

SF Chefs is San Francisco's premier food, wine, and spirits festival. Mingle with master chefs, mixologists, winemakers and other culinary superstars. At venues throughout the city, there are classes, demonstrations, speakers and special parties - a little something for every palate!

The Grand Tasting Tent on Union Square features over 200 of San Francisco's finest restaurants, bars, distilleries, breweries & wineries displaying their finest creations.

Western Food Service and Hospitality Expo

8/28-30 San Diego Convention Center San Diego, California www.westernfoodexpo.com The Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo is the only comprehensive industry event devoted to the Western U.S. restaurant, foodservice and hospitality market. The Show will provide you with a strategic forum to demonstrate your food products, technology and equipment as well as discuss service solutions with current customers and new prospects. The Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo is sponsored by the California Restaurant Association, and produced and managed by Reed Exhibitions, the global leader in trade show management.

SEPTEMBER

Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show 9/8-10 Orange County Convention Center.

Orlando, Florida www.flrestaurandlodgingshow.com

The Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show is the only comprehensive industry event devoted to the Southeast U.S. restaurant, foodservice and hospitality market. The Show will provide you with a strategic forum to demonstrate your food products, technology and equipment as well as discuss service solutions with current customers and new prospects. The Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show is sponsored by the Florida Restaurant & Lodging Association, and produced and managed by Reed Exhibitions, the global leader in trade show management.

Natural Products Expo East

9/21-24 Baltimore Convention Center Baltimore, Maryland www.expoeast.com Join the East Coast's Largest Natural, Organic, and Healthy Products Business Community.

Natural Products Expo East education and events provide opportunities to learn and explore new ideas, industry trends and practical solutions to improve business practices and broaden industry knowledge, and to network with your industry peers.

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

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Sushi Chef Institute -Teach how to cook to communicate the heart, a sushi chef training school-

Text / Kanako Chitose

- 心が伝わる料理を教える。すし職人育成学校 -

To learn the techniques and knowledge to become a sushi chef in 8 weeks

Sushi Chef Institute, founded in 2002, is a sushi chef training specialty school to teach the necessary techniques and knowledge to become a sushi chef in 8 weeks. The 8-week program consists of four curriculums. In the first two weeks, students learn how to steam rice, how to prepare miso soup, broiled dishes, grilled dishes, fried dishes, and other basic preparations and knowledge required for Japanese cuisine, and how to use a knife.

Students learn how to prepare sushi rolls in the next two weeks, and how to prepare fish and nigiri sushi from the fifth week.

In the final two weeks, students experience the actual restaurant working environment, management, and other knowledge necessary to gain employment or to start a business. By this stage, students are looking for employment.

Currently, programs offered are not limited to sushi chefs, but also courses on how to prepare ramen that is popular in Los Angeles and New York, and courses for sake sommeliers, both becoming popular.

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JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

The preparation of four flavors of ramen soup: Soy Sauce, miso, salt, and tonkotsu, can be mastered in a short period of time. Those who plan to start or manage a restaurant in the future will require the knowledge of Japanese sake.

The sake sommelier course is also offered for such professionals.

Students accepted from worldwide due to increasing demand for sushi chefs

Because no other schools offer serious training in sushi preparation, many students enroll from Japan and other Asian countries, Switzerland, Holland, European countries, Argentina and South America. In terms of ratio, Asians constitute 70% of the student body, 20% Caucasians and 10% Japanese. Due to the recent sushi boom, the demand for sushi chefs increased with over 70% of the graduates employed worldwide as sushi chefs.

Some students return to their home countries to open restaurants. The school also receives requests for mediation with employment prospects, and often consults students about career options

８週間でスシ・シェフになるための 技術と知識を学ぶ

もあります。

Sushi Chef Institute は、2002 年に設 立したスシ・シェフになるために必要な技術 と知識を８週間で学べるスシ・シェフ養成専 門学校です。８週間のプログラムは、４つの 課程からなっています。まず最初の２週間で、 ご飯の炊き方やみそ汁の作り方、煮物、焼 き物、揚げ物など和食の基本的な調理方や 知識、包丁の使い方などを身につけます。そ して次の２週間で巻物を覚え、５週目からは 魚の扱い方と握りを学びます。そして最後の ２週間は実際の現場の雰囲気を体験したり、 マネージメントなど就職や起業に欠かせない 知識を学んでいきます。この頃には生徒たち の就職活動も始まります。現在はスシ・シェ フのプログラムだけでなく、ロサンゼルスや ニューヨークでブームとなっているラーメンの 作り方を学ぶコースや酒ソムリエのコースも開 催し、人気を博しています。ラーメンはしょう ゆ、味噌、塩、とんこつの４種類のスープと タレの作り方を短期間でマスターすることが できます。将来、店を起業したり、経営する 人は日本酒の知識も必要となりますので、酒 ソムリエコースはそんな人たち向けのコースで

スシを本格的に学べる学校は他にはない ので、日本人を含むアジア人だけでなく、ス イスやオランダなどヨーロッパ各国やアルゼ ンチンなど南米からも多くの生徒がやってき ます。割合で言うとだいたいアジア系７０％、 白人２０％、日本人１０％です。昨今のスシブー ムの影響で、スシ職人の需要は高まり、同校 を卒業した生徒の７割以上がスシ・シェフと して世界各国で働いています。故郷に戻って 自らの店をオープンする生徒もいます。就職 先の斡旋はもちろんですが、就職後の進路 を相談されることもしばしば。今でも多くの 生徒たちと Facebook でコンタクトを取りあ い、近況を分かち合っています。 体調を壊してスシ・シェフとしてフルで働 くことができなくなったことが、インストラク ターになるきっかけとなりました。 「何か自分 にできることはないか」と考えた時、指導者 として自分が持っている知識や技術を教える 道を選びました。どんな生徒でも必ず迷いが 出てくる時期があります。それを見守りなが

高まるスシ・シェフ需要で 世界各国から学生を受け入れ

Profile Andy Fumio Matsuda アンディー松田文男（まつだ ふみお） Born in 1956, Matsuda trained at Genpachi Sushi in Osaka after graduating high school, then worked at restaurants Yoshiman and Oomi in Osaka before ultimately succeeded his family restaurant Matsuya.

After coming to the U.S. in 1981, Matsuda worked for approximately 4 years at Japanese restaurant Takanawa in Little Tokyo and Santa Monica before becoming the Chief Chef of the sushi bar at Sheraton Hotel. Matsuda founded the California Sushi Academy with two partners in July 1998 and served as Chief Instructor. He left the California Sushi Academy in September 2002 to found the Sushi Chef Institute, where he taught over 1,000 students to date.

1956 年生まれ。 高 校 卒 業 後、 大 阪 の 源八寿司で修業を積 み、 大 阪 の よし万、 大巳を経て、兵庫県 西脇市にある実家の 大衆割烹、松屋を継ぐ。1981 年に渡米し、 リトルトーキョーとサンタモニカの日本食レ ストラン Takanawa で約４年間勤務した後、 シェラトン・ホテルの寿司バーでチーフシェ フとなる。98 年７月にパートナー２人と共 に California Sushi Academy を設立し、 チーフインストラクターとなる。2002 年９ 月に独立し、Sushi Chef Institute を設立。 これまで教えた生徒は 1,000 人を超える。

DATA Sushi Chef Institute

after graduation. Many students also contact the institute through Facebook and shares updates.

The founder decided to become an instructor when an illness prevented him from working full-time as a sushi chef. “When I asked myself ‘what could I do to make a difference,’ I chose to pass on my knowledge and techniques as an instructor. Any student will experience a time of self-doubt. It’s difficult to guide them and provide support until the last course, so it’s a big challenge for me.

However, it’s a great joy to see students who once struggled change, gain employment, and become successful worldwide, which is the best part of this job.”

Mind and body are energized through food preparation that carefully communicates Japanese culinary traditions

The most important concepts to understand as a sushi chef is the “3 S”: Season, Simple, and Sublime. Now is the fusion boom, but fusion is based on the basics and traditions. Therefore, my personal motto is not just to copy, but to accurately pass on Japanese culinary traditions. Of course not only the techniques, but simple, sublime and sincere preparations that reflect a sense of season are what I want my students to take away.

In February, the institute relocated from Little Tokyo to Torrance. While sushi preparation is mainly taught, we also plan to hold culinary classes to teach the importance of food preparation to as many students as possible. The term “food” consists of the characters “good” under the word “people.” In other words, the act of eating is supposed to help people, but here in California, under the character “people” is the character “bad.”

Many children are obese. Therefore, I want to teach the importance, sense of season and sublime qualities of food.

For this reason, not only will the institute train professional chefs, but invite chefs for French, Vietnamese, and Korean cuisine to teach various culinary courses to the general public. Mothers prepare dishes in these classes, take it home and share it with their children.

We are not cutting corners, but striving for our students to focus on the origin of the importance of food, soothe the body through eating and maintain emotional stability.

Founded（創業）: September 2002 Relocated from Little Tokyo to Torrance in February 今年２月にリトルトーキョーからトーランスに学校を移転。

Number of students（生徒数）: Currently 15 students 現在は１５名 Course description（授業内容）: 1. 8 weeks of sushi course. Basics of Japanese cuisine from fish handling, sushi roll preparation, nigiri sushi, and management in 4 courses.

スシ８週間コース。和食の基本から魚の取り扱い、巻物、握り、マネージメントまでを４課程で学ぶ。

2. 2-day ramen courses. How to prepare four types of ramen soups and sauce, and gyoza. ラーメン２日間コース。ラーメン４種類のスープとタレ、餃子の作り方を学ぶ。 3. 3-day sake sommelier course. 酒のソムリエ３日間コース。 Course hours: Monday ~ Friday, 5 days a week. 8:00AM ~ 1:00PM Tuition fees: Approximately $5,000 including materials Ramen course: $550 ($450 for current students) Sake sommelier course: $650 ($550 for current students) VISA: M1 Training Visas issued 1123 Van Ness Ave, Torrance, CA 90501 TEL& FAX:(310)782-8483, www.sushischool.net

らサポートし、最後の課程まで持っていくこ とが大変で、私にとっても大きなチャレンジ です。しかし、そんな七転八倒した生徒が変 化し、就職先が決まって世界中で活躍する姿 を見ることはとても楽しく、この仕事の一番 の魅力でもあります。

日本食の伝統を大切に心が伝わる 料理作りで、心も体も元気に

スシ・シェフとしてもっとも大切なことは、 「３Ｓ」と呼ばれるシーズン（季節）、シンプル、 サブライム（気品）です。今はフュージョン がブームとなっていますが、 基本や伝統があっ てこそのフュージョンであり、単なるコピーで はなく、日本食の伝統をきちんと学んで欲し いというのが私のモットーです。技術はもち ろんですが、シンプルで季節感があり、気品 にあふれた作り手の心が伝わる料理を学んで もらいたいと願っています。 今年２月にリトルトーキョーからトーラン スに学校を移転しました。教えるのはスシが メインですが、今後は少しでも多くの人に食 の大切さを知ってもらうための料理教室など も開催していきたいと思っています。 「食」と いう字は、“人” の下に “良” と書きます。つ まり、食べることは人を良くするはずですが、 今のカリフォルニアでは “人” の下に “悪” と なっています。肥満の子供も大勢います。だ からこそ子供たちにも食の大切さ、食べ物の 持つ季節感や気品を知ってもらいたいと願っ ています。そのために、プロのシェフを養成 するだけでなく、フランスやベトナム、韓国 料理のシェフを招いて一般大衆向けに様々な 料理を学ぶクラスもやりたいと思っています。 お母さんたちがここで料理を作って家に持っ て帰って、子供たちと一緒に食べる。手を抜 くのではなく、食の大切さという原点に戻り、 食べることによって体を癒し、精神的な安定 を保ってもらいたいと心から願っています。 July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

23

OTHER CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

Toro with Caviar from Omakase Course

Octopus with Herb Sauce from Omakase Course

Orange County

Text/Photo: Jean Nakaya

Bistro Anju

23964 Aliso Creek Rd Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 (949) 716-8882 Lunch: Mon-Fri 12-2pm Dinner: Mon-Thu 5-9:30pm

Fri-Sat 5-10pm, Sun 5-9pm

Anju Sampler Dish –Scallop with Truffle, Salmon Tartar, Foie Gras Pate with Apple $18.00

Top restaurant that impresses local diners with sushi +α

ローカルの舌をうならせる寿司＋αの名店

L

aguna Niguel, a city in the suburbs of Los Angeles in Orange County, a conservative area where 80% of residents are Caucasians. Bistro Anju is located in a corner of an ordinary mall. The small sign is not visible from the streets, where the mall is not particularly busy. This small Japanese restaurant is successful in securing a certain amount of customers at all times.

“When we first opened the restaurant, we often had only a few couples dining,” said owner and chef Hideki Saito. He never paid for a large ad, yet customers gradually increased by wordof-mouth. The restaurant receives rave review on consumer review site yelp.com, and diners seem satisfied when leaving the restaurant.

“We’re a small restaurant, so we often have to have customers wait until when our seats and tables open up.” At times, the service can take time due to manual labor, but customers don’t complain.

Also, many regulars bring customers also.

What is the reason the regulars want to introduce their friends to the restaurant?

One reason is because of the owner’s easygoing and bright personality. The owner treats repeat customers like they

24

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

are life-long friends, and also never fails to say to first-time customers, “Thank you very much for coming. See you soon!”

Although the greeting may seem like a given, many restaurants surprisingly do not offer this greeting as customers leave.

Of course, the restaurant is so small the entire place can be overseen from behind the sushi bar. Perhaps, this is why such greetings are possible. However, to exaggerate a bit, the owner himself personally asks, “What kind of foods do you like?” and “How was your food?”

This makes an evening outing a special dining experience.

The menu reflects an abundance of French elements, which is another important factor that is impressionable about this restaurant. Although a sushi restaurant, the term bistro is understandable upon reviewing the menu. Experience working for a French restaurant is reflected in the foie gras apple strawberry sauce, representative of Saito’s culinary creations along with Chilean Sea Bass in Avocado Ponzu Sauce. These dishes receive more orders from the dinner combinations than teriyaki, etc. Foie Gras with Apple Strawberry Sauce and Marinated Lamb Chop with Teriyaki

Chilean Sea Bass in Ponzu Sauce $14.50

ロも 8 割以上の住人を白人層が占め保守

サンゼルス郊外オレンジカウンティーで

的な印象が強いラグナニゲル。何の変哲もな いモールの一角に Bistro Anju はある。そ の小さな看板は通りから見えるわけでもなく、 モール自体が賑わっているわけでもないが、 この小さな日本料理店は常に一定の客足を確 保している。 「開店した当初は、客が一組や 二組だけということもよくありました」と話す のはオーナーシェフの齊藤英樹氏。大きな広 告を打ったことはなく、口コミで徐々に常連 客が増えていったという。消費者レビューサ イトの yelp.com での評価も高く、訪れた客 はみな満足気に帰っていく。 「小さな店です ので、お待ちいただくことや満席でテーブル をご用意できないこともあります」。すべてマ ニュアルの作業でサービスが遅れることもあ るが、ほとんどの客は不満を言わない。また、 常連客からの紹介で訪れる人も多い。はたし て人に伝えたいと思わせる理由は何だろうか。 ひとつは、主人のおおらかで明るい人柄に あるように思う。常連客には昔からの友人の ように振る舞い、初めての客にも笑顔で「来 てくれてありがとう。またのご来店を！」と必

ず声をかける。そんな当たり前のことと思わ れるかもしれないが、帰り際の挨拶がない店 が驚くほど多いものだ。もちろん、スシバー の中からでも全席に目が行き届く小さな店内 だから可能なのかもしれない。しかし、大げ さに言えば、オーナーシェフ自らが「どんな ものが好きですか？」 「料理はどうでしたか？」 と個人的に声をかけることで、ただの外食が 特別な体験となりうるのだ。 フレンチの趣向をふんだんに取り入れたメ ニューもこの店を印象づける大きな要素であ る。寿司屋の店構えながら、ビストロという 名前なのもメニューを見れば納得がいく。フ レンチレストランでの経験から生まれたフォ アグラのアップルストロベリーソースやラム チョップ柚子胡椒添えはなくてはならない人 気メニューとなっている。中でも、齊藤氏の 代表作と言えるのが、チリアンシーバスのポ ン酢ソース。同店のディナーコンボでは、照 り焼き類よりも注文が入るほどだ。 ぜひ味わいたいのがおまかせコース（$50）。 その日仕入れたネタと、客の好みや何を飲ん でいるかを考慮して、寿司５貫とデザートを 含む６コースを提供する。例えば、ホタテの

Atlanta Address: 4554 Stonegate Ind. Blvd., Stone Mountain, GA 30083 Phone: (678) 317-9200 Boston Address: 22 Foodmart Road, Boston, MA 02118 Phone: (617) 269-9988 Chicago Address: 950 Chase Avenue, Elk Grove Village, IL 60007 Phone: (847) 718-0088 Columbus Address: 3004 East 14th Avenue, Columbus, OH 43219 Phone: (614) 340-7575 Dallas Address: 8919 Governors Row, Dallas, TX 75247 Phone: (214) 887-8009

Hartford Address: 2091 Meriden Road, Wolcott, CT 06716 Phone: (203) 879-4099

Philadelphia Address: 530 Foundry Road, Norristown, PA 19403 Phone: (610) 635-1250

Montreal Address: 705 Meloche Avenue, Montreal, QC, Canada Phone: (514) 990-0611

Hawaii Address: 2696 Wai Wai Loop, Honolulu, HI 96819 Phone: (808) 836-3222

Phoenix Address: 835 W. 22nd Street, #107, Tempe, AZ 85282 Phone: (480) 377-8783

Toronto Address: 2480 Cawthra Road, Mississauga, ON L5A 2X2, Canada Phone: (416) 410-1800

Las Vegas Address: 4460 Arville Street, #5, Las Vegas, NV 89103 Phone: (702) 220-7265

Portland Address: 301 East Grant Blvd., Vancouver, WA 98661 Phone: (360) 695-9577

Vancouver Address: 12417 #2 Road, Unit #155, Richmond, BC V7E 6H7, Canada Phone: (604) 878-1994

Raleigh Address: 300 Dominion Drive, Morrisville, NC 27560 Phone: (919) 655-1290

JAPAN Tokyo Address: 5-28-10 Higashi Gotanda-Chou, Shinagawa-Ku, Tokyo, Japan Phone: 81-3-5789-8961

Los Angeles Address: 4200 S. Alameda Street, Vernon, CA 90058 Phone: (323) 846-3300 Maui Address: 173 Alamaha Street, #2, Kahului, HI 96732 Phone: (808) 877-2852

Denver Address: 6727 East 50th Street, Commerce City, CO 80022 Phone: (303) 227-1344

Miami Address: 11205 North West 36th Avenue, Corner of 36th Avenue and 112th Street, Miami, FL 33167 Phone: (305) 687-4303

Detroit Address: 11876 Belden Court, Livonia, MI 48150 Phone: (734) 266-1518

New York Area Address: 32-34 Papetti Plaza, Elizabeth, NJ 07206 Phone: (908) 351-9090

District of Columbia Address: 3331 75th Avenue, Landover, MD 20785 Phone: (301) 386-5355

Orlando Address: 5129 Forsyth Commmerce Road, Orlando, FL 32807 Phone: (407) 384-8531

Sacramento Address: 8384 Rovana Circle, Sacramento, CA 95828 Phone: (916) 383-6007 San Francisco Address: 1815 Williams Street, San Leandro, CA 94577 Phone: (510) 352-8140

KOREA Pusan Address: 113-1, 6-Ga, Nampo-Dong, Jung-Gu, Korea Phone: 82-51-231-1160

Seattle Address: 1501 South 92nd Place, Seattle, WA 98108 Phone: (206) 766-8006

SPAIN Madrid Address: C/Cordoba 11, Bjo-D/ Colmenar Viejo, Madrid, 28770, Spain Phone: 34-918456709

CANADA Halifax Address: RR#2 40 Goodick Road, Shelburne, NC B0T 1W0, Canada Phone: (902) 875-3210

UNITED KINGDOM London Address: 4 Cullen Way, London, NW10 6JZ, United Kingdom Phone: 44-20-8838-2063

For more information on availability, contact your local True World Foods branch.

Visit our website at www.trueworldfoods.com

1. Average Price for Lunch/Dinner per Person / ランチ・ディナーの客単価 $40 (estimate)

2. Daily Sales / 一日売上平均 N/A

3. Food Cost Percentage (%) フードコスト

30 %

4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales Percentage (%) 売上に対するアルコール比率

25 %

Green Tea Cream Brulee $4.50

Chef/Owner Hideki Saito

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 )

Yuzugosho are popular menu selections that are integral for their success.

A highly recommended course is the Chef’s Choice ($50). Food ingredients are purchased that day, and customer’s preferences and drinks are considered into the six-course meal with 5 pieces of sushi and dessert. For example, Scallop with Saikyo Miso Truffle Sauce, Seared Salmon with Avocado, Toro with Caviar and Gazpacho and Oyster are dishes made with fresh food ingredients created into a fusion of eastern and western essence. The creative cuisine is well beyond the reasonable fees and sushi and provides a high level of satisfaction.

Also, the appetizers is foie gras, the main course is lamb chops or sea bass, five pieces of sushi, dessert, etc. The fiveitem tasting menu (Chef ’s Tasting Menu $45) also has a strong leaning towards

French cuisine and is popular among diners of all races.

Customers who visit once are highly likely to become repeat customers. This fact is testimony to the high level of satisfaction customers enjoy. “Due to demand, we currently provide teriyaki chicken and also tempura also. But some day, I would like to open a smaller restaurant serving only fusion cuisine. I want to build relationships based on trust with each and every one of our customers. I would be delighted if customers said to me, ‘I’ll leave my selection up to you, Hideki,’ without looking at the menu,” said Saito. Many customers here are repeat customers, and because the concept of “omakase” is permeating among American diners, this day won’t be too far away.

西京味噌トリュフソース、サーモンのアボカ ド添え、トロのキャビア添え、オイスター入 りトマトの冷製スープなど、新鮮な食材を使 い、和洋のエッセンスを融合させたものが多 く、そのリーズナブルな価格と寿司だけでは ない創作料理に満足度が高い。また、アペタ イザーにフォアグラ、メインにラムチョップま たはシーバスと、寿司５貫、デザートなど５ 品のテースティングメニュー（$45）もフレン チ色が濃く、人種を問わず人気を集めている。 一度来店した客は高い確率で再度訪れると いう。その事実もまた高い満足度を物語って いる。 「需要があるため、現在は照り焼きや 天ぷらなども提供していますが、いつかもっ と小さな店でフュージョン料理だけを出せた らいいですね。ひとりひとりのお客様と信頼 関係を築いて、メニューを見ずとも『英樹に まかせるよ』と思ってもらえたら最高です」 と齊藤氏。この店では常連客が多く、アメリ カ人の中にもおまかせの醍醐味が浸透しつつ あるだけに、それも夢ではないだろう。

Beer: 50%, Japanese sake: 25% Wine: 20%, Shochu: 5%

6. Target Customer / 客層

Caucasians (Local): 80% Asians including Japanese: 20%

7. Featured Menu / メニューの特徴

Sushi, a la carte, “omakase” (Chef ’s Choice), tasting menu, etc.

8. Food Supplier / 仕入れ先 International Marine, etc.

9. Number of Staff / 従業員数 8

10. Number of Seats / 席数 34 seats

11. Opening Date / 開店年月 October 2009

12. Varieties of Sake in Store

取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋

10 kinds Kikusui, Karatamba, Funakuchi, Mizubasho, Kubota, Otokoyama etc.

INTERNATIONAL MARINE PRODUCTS, INC.

A F U L L S E RV I C E P R O V I D E R O F F O O D P R O D U C T S F R O M T H E W O R L D

Comprehensive Consulting · Quality Management · Innovative Menu Creation LOS ANGELES 500 East. 7th Street Los Angeles, CA 90014 tel: (213) 893-6123 fax: (213) 680-0317 email: info@intmarine.com

PHOENIX 3801 East Roeser Road, Suite 10 Phoenix, AZ 85040 tel: (602) 470-9881 fax: (602) 470-9957 email: info@intmarine.com

SALT LAKE CITY 2655 South 1030 West, Unit A Salt Lake City, UT 84111 tel: (801) 908-5953 fax: (801) 908-0294 email: info@impfoods.com

LAS VEGAS 1741 South Mojave Road Las Vegas, NV 89104 tel: (702) 431-8896 fax: (702) 431-8897 email: infonv@intmarine.com

SAN FRANCISCO 1650 Delta Court Hayward, CA 94544 tel: (510) 429-4600 fax: (510) 429-4601 email: info@impfoods.com

JAPAN 3F- Chuoreito Toyomi No. 3 Reizoko Office Bldg.

8-19 Toyomi-cho, Chuo-ku Tokyo, Japan 104-0055

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

27

Text : Aya Ota

OTHER CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

New York

Charitable enterprises to jump-start the economy Various support from the Japanese food industry to aid Japan’s recovery 慈善事業、そして経済活性化へ 日本食業界によるさまざまな日本復興支援のかたち

© blukid.com

© blukid.com

Yuzu wasabi Macaroon (Chef Payard)

T

hree months since the Great East Japan Earthquake, the extensive destruction and the imminent long road to reconstruction is prompting the start of many charitable enterprises nationwide. Also, many such organizations are stimulating economic recovery.

Charity Dinner by a group of renowned chefs to support Japan’s recovery from the earthquake

Charity dinner to support Japan’s recovery, “Chefs Cook for Japan” was held by a group of renown chefs were held at the Harvard Club of New York City on Wednesday May 18.

After the earthquake, a proposal was made by professionals in the Japanese restaurant industry to hold events to support Japan’s recovery. Approximately twenty chefs from top restaurants throughout the U.S., over ten food manufacturing companies, importing firms, and non-profit organizations came together and volunteered to “contribute towards Japan’s recovery.”

Chef Masaharu Morimoto

The host of this event was Chef Masaharu Morimoto of Restaurant “Morimoto,” renown as the third Iron Chef of Japanese cuisine on Japan’s “Iron Chef,” broadcast on Fuji Television between 1993~99.

Morimoto is also immensely popular for his appearance as an Iron Chef on the American version of the show, “Iron Chef America.”

The event faced many challenges in the preparation stage. Although preparations had started since immediately after the earthquake, various arrangements took time to be finalized, with the details finalized only a week prior to the event. Despite (Continued on page 31)

28

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

東復興再生への道のりの長さを物語るように、全米各 日本大震災発生から 3 カ月。その被害の甚大さや

地では今なお、さまざまな慈善事業が活発に開催されて いる。また、経済活性化につながる活動も見られるよう になってきた。

豪華シェフ陣による 日本復興支援チャリティー・ディナー 5 月 18 日（水）、ニューヨークの「ハーバード・クラブ」 にて、豪華シェフらによる日本復興支援チャリティー・ディ ナー『シェフズ・クック・フォー・ジャパン』が開催された。 震災後すぐに日本食業界関係各者から日本復興支援イ ベントの案が持ち上がった。そして、全米の一流レストラ ンから 20 名近いシェフ、食品企業や輸入業者 10 社以上、 NPO 団体らが集まり、ボランティアで惜しみない協力を した。 「日本のために力になりたい」と想いをひとつにしイ ベント準備に奔走した。 ホストを務めたのはレストラン『Morimoto』の森本正 治シェフ。1993 年～ 99 年までフジテレビで放映された 『料理の鉄人』で三代目・和の鉄人として活躍。米国版『ア イアン・シェフ・アメリカ』でも鉄人として登場するなど、 絶大な人気を誇るシェフだ。 イベントの準備は決して順調なことばかりではなかっ た。震災直後から準備が進められてきたものの、さまざ まな調整に時間がかかり、詳細が確定したのは開催わず か１週間前。 1 週間でどれだけの人が集まるか不安だったというが、結 果的には VIP チケット 80 席を含む、350 席のチケット は完売。 「こんなに多くの人が集まってくれたことに感謝し たい」と森本氏は語った。 当日、場内には壁に沿ってブースが配置され、各シェフ が料理やデザート、カクテルを披露。 「ウナギとシソ入り （３１ページへ続く）

Ad Name: Kirin Japanese Item #: PKI2010046 Order #: 226423

Trim: 9.25x12 Closing Date: 2.18.11 QC: SM Bleed: None Pub: Japanese Restaurant Live: 8.75x11.5

concerns about how much people will actually attend with only a week’s notice, tickets for 350 seats including 80 VIP seats ultimately sold out. “I’d like to express my appreciation for so many people attending,” said Morimoto.

Booths were set up on along the wall the day of the event, where each chef presented various chefs presented dishes, desserts, and cocktails. Various dishes utilizing Japanese food ingredients were presented, such as “Chilled Avocado Soup with Unagi and Shiso” by Chef Anita Lo, “Macarons (Red Bean, Green Tea, Yuzu, Shiso, Raspberry Wasabi, Black Sesame)” by patissier Francois Payard, and a cocktail using Japanese basil named “Green Destiny” was presented by Julie Reiner. While it’s not common for chefs themselves to stand behind the booths at such events, most of the chefs attended the booths and served attendants themselves, evident of their sincerity and desire to aid Japan’s recovery.

Many participants commented, “Not only is it a valuable opportunity to enjoy many dishes from various renown chefs, but also a rare opportunity to actually meet the chefs. It’s also great to be able to contribute to Japan’s recovery in this manner.”

The desire of America’s top chefs, professional affiliates, organizations and participants to aid Japan’s recovery will no doubt greatly encourage Japan as she continues to face the challenges of disaster and economic recovery. In one night, the sales reached over $100,000. All profits will be donated to Japan Society’s Earthquake Relief Fund. ● Chefs Cook for Japan www.chefscookforjapan.com

Introducing to the world the spirit of Japanese cuisine to aid the economic recovery of Japan, “Japan Pavilion –WA–”was established for the Natural Products Expo

Many efforts are emerging not only for philanthropic purposes, but also as

efforts to stimulate the economy. One such effort is the “Natural Products Expo East,” the largest exhibit for organic, natural, health-promoting and eco products in the U.S., to be held in Baltimore, Maryland in September, in which “Japan Pavilion – WA –” will be introduced by a collective group of Japanese corporations will exhibit booths.

Ken Mizorogi, official agent of the exhibit initiated the introduction of Japan Pavilion. “Although Japan along with our industry are affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake and concerns for radiation, now is the opportunity for change.

I believe now is the time to introduce the “spirit of Japan” that co-exists with nature and people,” said Mizorogi. In the U.S. where health-conscious products are increasingly garnering more attention in recent years, the market for such products have increased to become the largest in the world.

While Japan’s economy continues to suffer a setback, many have expressed the desire to maximize this opportunity to promote Japanese foods renown for their health benefits. “We would like to provide an outlet for Japanese corporations to come together for business matching opportunities in this positive, energetic exhibit in the hopes of contributing what we can to stimulate Japan’s economy” said Mizorogi as participants exert themselves daily preparing for the exhibit. ● Natural Products Expo Natural Products Expo East 9/22 – 24, 2011 Baltimore, Maryland www.expoeast.com

Natural Products Expo West 3/9 -11, 2012 Anaheim, California www.expowest.com Japanese website/ http://naturalexpo.info/ ● Japan Pavilion www.japanpavilion.net

Right: Tofu Cheesecake, Soy Milk and Hazelnuts Chocolates (Patissier, Manabu Inoue/Morimoto)

の冷製アボカドスープ」 （アニータ・ロー）、 「柚 子、シソ、ワサビなどを使ったマカロン」 （フ ランコイス・パイアール）、シソの葉入りカク テル「グリーン・デスティニー」 （ジュリー・レ イナー）など、日本食材を取り入れたものも 多く見られた。こういったイベントではシェフ 本人がブースに立つことは少ないが、今回は ほとんどのシェフ自ら料理をサーブ。復興支 援への誠意や熱意が感じられた。 「これだけ豪華シェフの料理を一晩で一度 に食べられるだけでも貴重だが、シェフ本人 とも会うことができるまたとない機会。これ を通して復興支援できることも嬉しい」と多 くの参加者が口を揃えた。 アメリカが誇るトップシェフたち、関連業 者・団体、その意志に賛同して集まった参加 者たちの日本支援への思いは、災害復興や経 済再生に取り組む日本を勇気づけるに違いな い。売上は一晩で 10 万ドル以上に上ったと いう。純利益はすべてジャパン・ソサエティー 東日本大震災復興支援基金へ寄付される。 ● Chefs Cook for Japan www.chefscookforjapan.com

和の心を世界に発信し、 日本の経済活性化を支援 ナチュラル・プロダクツ・エキスポに 『ジャパン・パビリオン - 和 -』創設 慈善活動だけでなく経済活性化に貢献しよ うとする動きも多く見られるようになってき た。そのひとつとして、9 月にメリーランド州 のボルチモアで開催される全米最大規模の

有機、自然、健康、エコ関連商品の展示会『ナ チュラル・プロダクツ・エキスポ』に、日本 企業がまとまって出展する『ジャパン・パビリ オン - 和 -』が創設されることになった。

ジャパン・パビリオン創設に向けて立ち上 がったのは、同展示会のオフィシャル・エー ジェントを務める溝呂木賢氏。 「東日本大震 災や原発問題で、私たち日本は打撃を受けた が、今こそ大きく変わるチャンス。自然や人々 と共生する “和” の文化を世界へ発信すると きではないか」と語る。健康志向が年々高ま る米国では、関連市場は急成長し、その規 模は世界一だ。日本国内経済が停滞している 今、この機会を最大限活用し、健康効果の 高い日本食品をアピールしたい声が、多く聞 かれるようになってきたという。 「前向きなエ ネルギーがあふれる展示会に、日本企業が 団結して世界にアピールする場を提供し、ビ ジネスマッチングに結びつけたい。日本経済 活性化に少しでも貢献できれば」と奔走する 日々だ。 ● Natural Products Expo 2011 年 9 月 22 日～ 24 日開催 メリーランド州ボルチモア （www.expoeast.com） 2012 年 3 月 9 日～ 11 日開催 カリフォルニア州アナハイム （www.expowest.com） 日本語公式ウェブサイト （http://naturalexpo.info/） ● Japan Pavilion www.japanpavilion.net

OCEAN GROUP, INC. Growing Together

For over 25 years, Ocean Group, Inc. has been providing quality seafood and great service to Southen California restaurants.

1983年創業。築地、ローカル鮮魚を迅速にお届けすることが 我々のモットーです。南カリフォルニア全域をカバー。 日本人 セールスチームがお待ちしておりますので、お気軽に日本語 でお問い合わせ下さい。

1100 S. Santa Fe Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90021

www.oceanfreshinc.com Email: info@oceanfreshinc.com

TEL: (213) 622-3677 FAX: (213) 622-3437

July 2011 • Vol. 21 • No.152

31

FOOD HISTORY

Chapter 59

Common sense overturned by new ideas 常識は新しい力によって覆される

E

xoticism, entertainment, performance and other visually appealing factors are all incorporated in Edostyle sushi served at sushi bars.

Colorful and uniquely-shaped California rolls have visual appeal when made instantly by skilled sushi chefs as customers watch. However, that doesn’t mean Edo-style nigiri sushi became widespread among American diners due to their visual appeal.

While sushi preparation is exotic and entertaining, they were also received well due to their healthy aspects.

The recognition that sushi, made from fresh fish and seafood, vinegar rice and seaweed is healthier compared to dishes made from meat, milk and butter, became widespread among conscientious diners since the mid-1970s.

Americans with high income and education tend to choose what they eat intellectually (knowledge) rather than

視メント、パフォーマンスなどの要素のす

覚に訴えるエキゾチズム、エンターテイ

べては、寿司バーで食べる江戸前の寿司にも 含まれている。 色とりどりで造形もユニークなカリフォル ニア巻きも、それが熟達の寿司職人によって 客の目の前で瞬時に作られるということも含 めて、大きな視覚的インパクトを持っていた。 では、江戸前の握り寿司が、見た目（視覚） の魅力だけでアメリカ人の中に入っていった のかというと、決してそうではない。エキゾ チックなエンターテイメントでもある寿司は、 同時に健康のためによい食べ物として受け入 れられた。 新鮮な生の魚介と酢飯の海苔で食べる寿 司は、肉とバターとミルクをたっぷり使った 料理よりずっと健康的だという認識は、1970 年代の半ばすぎから、一部の高感度なアメリ カ人の間で広がりはじめていた。

32

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

Noritoshi Kanai 1923 Born in Tokyo.

1949 Graduated Hitotsubashi University.

1951 Accession to the President of

Tokyo Mutual Trading Company, Inc. 1964 Moved to United States with his family.

Accession to the President of Mutual Trading

Company Inc. in Los Angeles. Kanai’s Biography,

“The Frontal Assault Concept” was published.

2011 Chairman of Mutual Trading Company Inc.

in Los Angeles

from taste or visual appeal. Healthpromoting qualities and dieting effect can be equally or more impactful than taste.

One example of traditional Japanese cuisine garnered attention due to their natural, health-promoting and environmental qualities is the brown rice movement proposed by Yukikazu Sakurazawa (1893 – 1966). Sakurazawa raised the Japanese knowledge and cuisine prior to the Meiji Era to the concept of “Musou Genri,” the cosmic law promoting healthy body and mind, which became widespread in France and other industrial nations.

Sakurazawa’s theory is known in the U.S. as microbiotics diet, initially popularized among college students in Boston in the East Coast, then became widespread nationwide.

In the 1960’s, the diet was associated with the hippie movement that protested against the modern machine

civilization.

Also, while there are f lows of natural foods not related to eastern ideas, Japanese “natural foods” such as brown rice, miso, red beans, seaweed, kombu, etc. were also incorporated.

Japanese food products that is healthy and leads to coexistence with nature is garnered attention and became an established market after the mid-1970s.

This was due to one book that became a record-breaking best seller, selling 100,000 copies in hardback.

The title of the book is “The Book of Tofu,” written by William Shurtleff, a graduate of Stanford University.

Shurtleff majored in mechanical engineering but became interested in eastern philosophies, zen and vegetarian cuisine. He studied in Japan, where he met a Japanese woman, his future wife.

Due to his book, tofu became

widely known as an “ideal food product,” a protein that is low-calorie and low-cholesterol with an abundance of minerals, vitamins and high absorption level by the human body.

In the U.S., 33 lbs of soy beans are fed as feed to create 2.2 lbs of meat.

Therefore, an ideology that stated if people begin to eat tofu made from soy beans instead of meat, and then the world food crisis and starvation may be resolved, gained support by many.

In 1975, there was only 55 soy food manufacturers, of which all were Asian companies. However, the number of food manufacturers increased to approximately 160 companies in 1981, of which over half were non-Asian (Caucasian) traders. From this fact alone, the impact of this one book is evident.

The tofu business expanded even further after the mid-1980s. Tofu then became “Tofu.”

所得と教育レベルの高いアメリカ人は、舌 （味覚）や目（視覚）よりも、頭（知識・教養） によって食べ物を選ぶことがある。健康づく りやダイエット効果が、あじや見た目と同じく らい、ときにはそれ以上に重視される。 伝統的な日本食が、自然、健康、環境と の共成などの点から注目された例として、食 養法を提唱した桜沢如一（さくらざわ ゆき かず 1893-1966）の玄米食 運 動がある。 桜沢は、明治以前の日本の食生活の智恵を 「無 双原理」という理論に高め、フランスをはじ め世界の先進国に広めていた。 桜沢の理論は、アメリカではマイクロバイ オテックの食事法として知られるが、はじめ は東海岸ボストンの学生たちの間で盛んにな り、次第に全米に及んだ。 1960 年代には、近代機械文明に異論を 唱えるヒッピー運動とも結びついた。 もう一つ、東洋思想とはとくに関係のない

自然食品 （ナチュラルフード）の流れもあるが、 ここにも、日本発祥の自然食とでも呼ぶべき 玄米、味噌、小豆、海苔、昆布などが取り入 れられた。 健康によくて、自然との共生にもつながる 日本食品が注目され、それがビジネスとして 成り立っていくのは、1970 年代半ば以降で ある。 一冊の本が、ハードカバーだけで１０万部、 ペーパーバックも加えると記録的なベストセ ラーになったのがきっかけだった。 本の題名は「豆腐の本（ザ・ブック・オブ・ トーフ）」。著者のウイリアム・シュートレフは、 カリフォルニアのスタンフォード大学で機械 工学を専攻したが、東洋思想、禅、精進料 理に興味を持ち、日本に留学してそれらを研 究し、後に妻となる日本人女性とも知り合っ た。彼の本によって、高タンパク、低カロリー、 低コレステロール、ミネラルとビタミンが豊富

で、しかも人体に吸収されるタンパク質の割 合が高いなど、豆腐が「理想的食品」だとい うことが広く知られるようになる。 アメリカでは、１キロの肉を作るために１５ キロもの大豆を飼料として使っているので、 人類が肉の代わりに大豆から作る豆腐を食べ るようになれば、世界の食糧危機、飢餓問 題を解決する道が開ける、という文明論的な 提案もまた、大きな共感を得た。 1975 年に全米の大豆食品製造業者はわ ずか５５軒、その全部が東洋系だった。それ が 1981 年には約１６０軒に増え、しかも半 数以上が非東洋系（白人系）の業者で占めら れた。このことからも、１冊の本の影響力の 大きさがうかがえる。 豆腐ビジネスは、1980 年代半ば以降さら に大きな展開を見せた。豆腐がトーフになっ たのである。

JAPANESE RESTAURANT RESTAURANT NEWS NEWS JAPANESE

May 2010 2010••Vol. Vol.20, 20,No.138 No.138 |17| |17| May

食品衛生対策、Food Handler Certificate Class & Exam

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