Fall 2014 by in the Mix

Vol. 41 Fall 2014

I N N OVAT E

I N D U L G E

E X P L O R E

C E L E B R A T I N G

25 YEARS

10 YEARS

in the Mix Magazine

We celebrate our 10th anniversary this issue with features on sparkling wines by Ed Korry and Paul Wagner. I wanted to focus on sparklers other than Champagne, so Ed did a piece that touches on some of the most popular bubblers outside of the Champagne district and Paul’s work focuses on the very popular Italian sparkling wine, Franciacorta. “Thank you” to both for their outstanding work. On that note, I would like to congratulate Ed Korry on his new appointment as president of the Society of Wine Educators. Ed has been a regular columnist with in the Mix for years and we thank him for taking the time to write his very enlightening essays — when his day job as an associate professor, CSS, CWE department chairman, Center for Culinary Excellence College of Culinary Arts, Johnson & Wales University and now the president of the SWE, probably keeps him quite busy. Rye Whiskey is one of the hotter trends in the business, so I wrote an article called “Rye Not.” It delves into the spirit itself and some of the popular brands that everyone should consider carrying on their back bars for discerning customers. Tony Abou-Ganim writes another episode in his “Adventures of George” series, this one about an old-fashioned dinner, Old Fashioneds at the Pendennis Club, and a visit with Jim Beam’s Fred Noe. ITM introduces a new friend to our pages, the Ultimate Beverage Challenge. Welcome F. Paul Pacult, David Talbot, Sue Woodley, Sean Ludford and the stellar group of judges who work with them, literally a “who’s who” of the business. They truly have created a new and higher standard in the art of evaluating spirits and wine that provides accurate, meaningful and useful results. In this issue, to stay with the theme, they are showing some of their evaluations on sparkling wines and Rye Whiskey. I had the opportunity to sit with François Thibault, the Maȋtre de Chai of Grey Goose, in New Orleans at this year’s Tales of the Cocktail. We spent more than an hour chatting about Grey Goose and their new product, Grey Goose VX. Don’t miss this issue’s article that gives a look into the fascinating life of Grey Goose’s creator. As usual, there is much more to enjoy. Have a great autumn and don’t forget to visit our digital in the Mix at intheMixDigital.com. Mike Raven Editor, in the Mix

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Publisher's Letter

Celebrating Our 25th Anniversary — A Really Short History of

Building Better Beverage Business™

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in the Mix Magazine is a division of and we are celebrating our 25th anniversary this November. Incentive Marketing, Inc., or , was founded in 1989 in Irvine, California; it is the parent company to what many of you know as Agency today. Our first client was Maidstone 80.our first account was Kahlua. Wine & Spirits and My first real industry mentor was Jim Flaherty, a stand-up guy who helped me navigate the future course for our company. For the first few years we worked exclusively on Maidstone brands, like Kahlua. But like all things, change is just a question of time. Before long, Maidstone was brought under Hiram Walker’s umbrella. This required to relocate from sunny Southern California to Southfield, Michigan, a suburb of Detroit, to be close to Windsor, Canada and the Hiram Walker headquarters. After a couple of years, Hiram Walker was brought into the Allied-Lyons house, eventually merging with Domecq and becoming Allied Domecq. That’s the short version — it was a roller coaster ride but exciting. Around 1994, entered a new era, our first big wind change. We were asked to help Marriott International develop the first corporate hotel-based beverage program, which was to be called “The Gold Standard Brands Program.” An initial group of 12 beverage suppliers came together to support the effort. By 1996, was a free agent and was once again on the move, this time to Atlanta, Georgia to help out with the Olympics. It was also my personal opportunity to get back to the Sunbelt. As time went on, our services were expanding and programs were getting more technical, so by 2000 we were looking for help. And there on a white horse was Larry McGinn. Larry had been one of the original supplier contributors to

the Gold Standard Brands Program and he was looking for a new challenge. In 2002, he took over sales responsibilities at and we started growing our relationships with new operators and expanded supplier contacts. Larry became a business partner in 2004 and his background on the supplier side was invaluable as we grew the company. We were now on a very fast growth curve. Some of our new customers were demanding new solutions to some of their most immediate needs. Technology and data management skills had to be developed. Not only was there need for statistical information but also for new software programs for the first menu management systems, online training programs and data analysis, to use in future sales and marketing decisions. 2002 was a banner year — we moved into our new Atlanta office building and opened our new Chicago office. The bad news is that it was right after 9/11 and the industry, along with the rest of the economy, took a time-out for a while. Although there was a lull, we were still able to continue to grow and move forward.

Over the next five years we enjoyed a steady growth of business and our staff grew to more than 24 team members. Our services covered almost all aspects of hospitality beverage marketing. All was well with the world once again … or was it?

We cannot change the wind, but we can adjust our sails to take us were we want to go as we begin a new chapter in our journey. The world kept turning and then the cold winds of the Great Recession of 2008 were on us. The hospitality industry was one of the first to feel the recession’s punch. We all held on for a wild four-year ride. During this time, and our industry were able to hold the line. We had to review our operations and find new skills and new ways of doing things, including adding a graphic design studio. So here we are in 2014, a company that is stronger, smarter, more efficient then ever and growing. We are at full staffing, with a complement of 38 team members. And we have added new service tools and products that provide the change and innovation our customers are looking for. In recognition of all this, we welcome the arrival of our 25th anniversary. The motto of this story is: We cannot change the wind, but we can adjust our sails to take us were we want to go as we begin a new chapter in our journey. Cheers!

Don Billings, Publisher

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28.

44.

Innovate 28. Spotlight On – François Thibault, Maȋtre de Chai of Grey Goose 32. Take 5 – Shirley Whelan, Hilton Hotels Corporation Director of F&B Product Development 40.

Legal Journal

64.

44. Doorways to Excitement by Ned Barker 64. Wines of California, a book review by Mike Raven 68. Technology – Wearable Tech by Adam Billings 70. Ultimate Beverage Challenge Reviews of Rye Whiskies and sparkling wines

70. 6

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20.

34.

Indulge 20. The New IT Sparkling: Franciacorta by Paul Wagner 34. Strange Brews – A new generation of brewers and distillers are experimenting with unusual flavors and targeting industry trends in the process

94.

22.

56. Rye Not? – A look at Rye Whiskies by Mike Raven

76. Unique Cocktail Inspiration From Around the World – presented by InterContinental Hotels, featuring Coca-Cola® and Riedel® Glassware 86.

56. 8

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Biz Mix – A recap of this summer’s events

94. ReMix, Whiskey 101 – A look back at the article in the 2011 fall issue by Ed Korry

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14. 18. 24.

Explore 14. The Adventures of George: The Old Fashioned by Tony Abou-Ganim 24. Making the Rounds With Helen Benefield Billings On the Beach

50.

50. The Magic of Old World Sparkling Wines – Other Than Champagne by Ed Korry, CHE, CSS, CWE 78. Out With The Old, In With The Classics – The All-New Lobby Bar Is Now Open At Caesars Palace

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Tony Abou-Ganim, The Modern Mixologist, is an accomplished bar chef and consultant who has created several original cocktail recipes including the Cable Car, Sunsplash, and Starlight. He has recently authored his second book Vodka Distilled (Agate Surrey). PUBLISHER DON BILLINGS

Ned Barker is a hotel industry veteran and principal of Grill Ventures Consulting, Inc. (www.GrillVC.com). Specializing in F&B, GVC works with both hotel and restaurant companies. GVC’s work ranges from full concept development to operations/marketing review & analysis, to special one-off project assignments.

E D I TOR I A L A N D D E S I GN E D I TO R M ic h a e l R ave n D E S I G N E D B Y C o n n ie G u e s s , ThinkWorks Creative WEBSITE AND DIGITAL DIRECTOR Kester Cockrell-Chau COPY EDITOR & PROOFREADER Christine Neal A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R C e le s t e D in o s ASSOCIATE EDITOR Helen Benefield Billings A DV E RT I S I N G S A L E S, m ike @ I T Mm a g. co m E D I TOR I A L A N D BU S I N E S S OFFIC E

Edward Korry is an Associate Professor and Chair of the Beverage & Dining Service Depar tment in the College of Culinary Ar ts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI. Edward carries many cer tifications as well as being the president of the Society of Wine Educators; and an executive board member of the US Bar tenders Guild Master Accreditation program. Adam Billings is the Director of Creative, Technology and Innovation at iMi Agency, a full service marketing agency in the hospitality industry. He has been with iMi for 8 years and manages adult beverage programs for chain restaurant, hotel and concession clients.

Travel and Hospitality Industry writer Helen Benefield Billings has been with in the Mix since its inception in 2004. Helen lives in her native childhood home of Sea Island, GA, when not travelling or attending industry functions with her husband Don.

Paul Wagner, an enthusiastic suppor ter of education for wine professionals, is an instructor for Napa Vally College and the Culinary Institute of America, and a member of the board of directors of the Society of Wine Educators. He is president of Balzac Communications and was inducted into the Spadarini della Castellania di Soave in 2005 and honored with a “Life Dedicated to Wine” award at the Feria Nacional del Vino (FENAVIN) in Spain in 2009.

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1 1 9 6 B u c k h e a d C ro s s in g Wo o d s t o c k , G A 3 0 1 8 9 7 7 0 .9 2 8 .1 9 8 0 F a x 7 7 0 .5 1 7 .8 8 4 9 m i ke @ I T Mm a g . c o m / i n t h e Mix Ma g a z i n e . c o m

i n t h e M i x m a g a z in e is p u b lis h ed q u ar ter ly by iM i A g e n c y. A ll r ig h ts re s e r ve d. No p ar t o f th i s p u b lic a tio n m ay b e re p r in ted o r o th er w i se re p ro du c e d w ith o u t w r itte n p er m i ssi o n fro m th e p u b lis h e r. i n t h e M i x is e x c lu s ive ly o p e r ated an d ow n ed by I n c e n tive M a r ke tin g I n c . Submissions: Incentive Marketing Inc. assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. Visit our website intheMixMagazine .com f o r g u ide lin e s o n h ow to s u b m i t i n q u i r i es o r c o n ta c t o u r e dito r s .

L a r r y M c G i n n , P a r tn e r C e l e s t e D i n o s , P ar tn e r D o n B i l l i n g s , Fo u n d ing Pa r tn e r

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The Adventures of George by Tony Abou-Ganim – PRESENTS –

The

Old Fashioned George was in New York City for a conference. Having arrived early, he was in need of a little pre-dinner liquid stimulation, so he decided to stop by one of his favorite joints, Employees Only. It was only 6:00 p.m. but the place was already filling up. George found a spot at the bar and ordered a Negroni. “Up, or on the rocks?” asked the bartender. “Up with a twist of orange please,” George replied. The bartender served George his Negroni, which was perfectly prepared and just what he Entrance to the Pendennis Club.

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needed. As he was enjoying his cocktail, a gentleman pushed through the now crowded bar room and found an opening at the bar, where he got the bartender’s attention. “Two Old Fashioneds,” he ordered. “With, or without muddled fruit?” asked the bartender. “With.” George took another sip of his Negroni and pondered the bartender’s question as he watched

him prepare the drinks. After the bartender finished serving his guest, George commented, “I have had many an Old Fashioned in my day and they have always been made with muddled fruit.” “That’s the way I learned the drink as well, the way they make it at the Pendennis Club, but then Dave Wondrich discovered the drink prior to the opening of the club.” The bartender continued, “At the end of the day, I want to make it for my guests the way they are expecting it to be made, the way they like to drink it.” Turns out the guy behind the stick, Principal Bartender Steve Schneider, knows a thing or two about the Old Fashioned. “Let me introduce you to someone. This is Philip; he works for Beam Suntory. He’s drinking a Jim Beam Black Label Old Fashioned, without muddled fruit.” George introduced himself and inquired into his preferred method of preparation.

“Well, I used to always drink them with muddled fruit until a bartender in Kentucky turned me on to trying one this way and I’ve been drinking them this way ever since.” Philip added, “If you’re a fan, there’s a group of us meeting in Louisville to hold the first Old Fashioned symposium next week. You should come.” Well, that was all the invitation George needed. He got Philip’s contact information and the details of the symposium, finished his Negroni, paid his tab and thanked Steve for the introduction and his wonderful hospitality. It was time for dinner. The following week George boarded a plane for Louisville, Kentucky with high hopes of getting to the bottom of the great Old Fashioned debate — to muddle fruit or not. A good friend of Philip’s had arranged a visit to the “members only” Pendennis Club, the alleged home of the drink’s creation, and the kicking-off spot for the symposium. Philip met him at the club, along with Gary and Ryan, who had arranged their visit. Inside, George was introduced to the rest of the group. Jared from the Monkey Wrench, Larry, an operating partner at the Silver Dollar, Whiskey writer Tom Fischer and Albert Schmid, author of The Old Fashioned. This was sure to be a heated discussion. After introductions were made, Gary and Philip escorted George to the bar to meet barman Alfred Warren. Alfred has been a bartender at the Pendennis Club for seven years and learned to make the Old Fashioned from 26-year veteran bartender, Tom Curly. Alfred explained, “The club opened in 1881 and the drink was created by a bartender named Martin Cuneo Left, Top: Entrance to the club. Left, Bottom: Sitting area inside the club. Right, Bottom: Tony Abou-Ganim (alias George), barman Alfred Warren, Philip Raimondo and Tom Fischer.

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Tony (George) shooting pool at the Pendennis Club.

An Old Fashioned before it is muddled, at the Pendennis Club.

Muddled cocktails waiting to be finished.

around 1889, and it’s still how we make them today.” He went on to explain, “We use Bourbon Whiskey, not Rye, only Angostura bitters, and we muddle the fruit and always add the Whiskey before the ice.”

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A completed cocktail.

Gary ordered ours made with Knob Creek Bourbon and commented, “Bottled at 50% ABV, it is proof perfected, deep in flavor and the Old Fashioned’s textbook counterpart.” George found the drink to be delicious; the Whiskey stood up nicely to the sweetness of the muddled fruit and syrup, which were accented beautifully by just the right amount of Angostura bitters. Next stop was Eddie Merlot’s for dinner as well as a side-by-side challenge of Old Fashioneds, prepared both with muddled fruit and without. The decision would finally be reached. We were seated at a long table in a private room, and after a round of palate cleansing Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale, it was time to get down to the matter at hand, settling

Bourbon coming straight from the barrel at Jim Beam.

The next morning George, Philip and Gary drove to Clermont where they would meet Tom, Larry and Susie, the beverage director at the Silver Dollar. After a quick tour of the distillery, one of the aging warehouses and a stop in the visitor’s center, it was time for the tasting. Phil took the group to a small house located on the property where they had lunch from Fred’s Smokehouse. George was famished and ordered a large plate of ribs with slaw and baked beans. He also had a bowl of homemade Burgoo stew, which is a local delicacy often prepared communally and made from a mixture of wild game and vegetables. He found everything to be delicious. After lunch, Philip took the group upstairs where four glasses awaited each guest. There, sitting at the head table, bigger than life, was Fred Noe. Fred shook hands with everyone, welcomed them

the great muddled fruit debate. First, everyone was served an Old Fashioned with a muddled orange slice, maraschino cherry and lemon twist. This was followed by a second that contained only the twist of lemon. Both were made with a muddled sugar cube, Angostura bitters and Jim Beam Black Label Bourbon. George found them both to be wonderful, although the muddled fruit did seem to have a little more going on, if not also a touch sweeter. The sugar cube and bitters in the un-muddled version were not completely dissolved and thus not entirely incorporated into the drink, leaving it somewhat unbalanced. The Whiskey showed beautifully in both but for George, his preference was with the muddled fruit. After much discussion Left to Right: Tony Abou-Ganim, Jim Beam Master Distiller, Fred Noe, Gary a vote was taken, and although very close, Gruver, Philip Raimondo of Beam Suntory, and Tom Fischer of BourbonBlog.com. the Old Fashioned without the muddled and proceeded to tell wonderful stories about what it fruit was victorious. was like growing up in this amazing Whiskey family. Much conversation followed with everyone In between the stories, the tasting took place and it pretty much agreeing that sugar syrup blends better in included four Bourbons: a new issue called Signature the drink, Angostura bitters are a must, and although Craft, Devil’s Cut, Knob Creek, and it finished with Rye Whiskey makes a great drink, the preference was Booker’s, a Bourbon created by and named for Fred’s on Bourbon. The entire group was in agreement when dad, Booker Noe. it came to leaving soda water out of the drink entirely, After tasting through all of the Whiskies, unless used simply to help dissolve a sugar cube. George asked Fred, “These are all amazing Bourbons “We have one more surprise for you,” Philip but do you have a favorite for an Old Fashioned?” informed him. “Tomorrow morning we are driving Fred thought for a minute. “Well, I’m pretty down to the distillery in Clermont to do a private sure they would all make a great Old Fashioned, but if I tasting with Jim Beam’s great grandson, Fred Noe.” had to choose one, I would go with the Knob Creek.” For once in his life, George really did not With the tasting complete, Fred said his know what to say. “That’s going to be amazing! good-byes and thanked them for coming down to Thank you so much for including me.” visit the distillery. In the parking lot, still reveling in

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what he had just experienced, George was talking with Larry and Susie. “We would like to invite you to the Silver Dollar tonight and let us make you our Old Fashioned,” Susie said. “I would love that, thank you. I’m looking forward to it already.” Back at the hotel, George had just enough time for a quick nap before heading to the Silver Dollar. Gary picked him up and together they set out for the restaurant. Susie was behind the stick making drinks when they arrived and Larry was quick to join them at the bar. “Here is our take on the Old Fashioned. Hope you like it,” she said. “We use Old Weller 107 Antique Bourbon, Angostura bitters and Demerara syrup.” “I have no issue with the Old Fashioned that the Pendennis Club came up with. I usually refer to it as the Pendennis Club Old Fashioned,” Larry explained. “The Old Fashioned itself was a term used in the late 1800s to signify a cocktail made without the use of modifiers. So telling a bartender in 1880 that you wanted a Whiskey Old Fashioned would let them know that you wanted Whiskey, sugar and bitters. So that’s how we make ours.” George found it to be wonderful — perfectly balanced with the Whiskey being the star of the show, for sure — and it went great with their fried chicken and waffles. What an amazing way to end an incredible day! Tomorrow George would head home but tonight he wanted to enjoy one final Old Fashioned

and Gary knew just the place. They walked into the St. Charles Exchange and Gary knew the gentleman behind the bar and introduced him. “George, I would like you to meet a good friend of mine and an amazing bartender, Sean Thibodeaux.” “Pleasure to meet you. Gary tells me you make a killer Old Fashioned. We’ll take two,” George requested. “We use Old Forester Signature Bourbon, Angostura and Bitter Truth Aromatic bitters, Demerara syrup, and garnish it with lemon and orange peels,” Sean explained. George loved his Old Fashioned. The additional bitters added complexity along with the brightness the citrus oils provided. “Fantastic!” he proclaimed. It was time to call it a night as he had an early flight in the morning, so he paid the tab and thanked Sean. Returning to the hotel, George said goodnight to Gary and thanked his host for the amazing experience and his incredible hospitality. “So what did you decide regarding muddled fruit or no muddled fruit in the Old Fashioned?” asked Gary as he was departing. “Well, a bartender once said he liked to make it the way his guest liked to drink it and I think that makes the most sense to me,” said George. “But I had one hell of a great time finding that out!” Photos courtesy of The Pendennis Club, BoubonBlog.com and Tommy Johns

Interested in obtaining Tony’s services or products for your brand company, hotel, or restaurant? Contact Andrea Day 702-218-1989 | andrea@themodernmixologist.com

For a complete list of Tony’s books, products and bar tools,Visit www.themodernmixologist.com Follow us on Facebook @ THE MODERN MIXOLOGIST OFFICIAL FAN PAGE Tony’s bar tool set includes the following: Cobbler 3-piece shaker with etched 16-ounce mixing glass, jigger, bar spoon (choice of twisted or round), Hawthorne strainer, Julep strainer, 20-ounce hand-blown mixing beaker, hand-held lime squeezer, hardwood muddler, and Lewis bag (not shown). Set also comes with Tony’s DVD, “Modern Mixology.”

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The New IT Sparkling

Franciacorta by Paul Wagner

Milan is no stranger to the finer things in life: the center of fashion; Europe’s largest opera house, La Scala; Inter-Milan football; and the sportiest of wheels (Maserati, Lamborghini). Wine is no exception. An hour east of this great cultural city is an amphitheater of vineyards facing the Italian Alps and cooled by the grand Lake Iseo, creating Italy’s best sparkling wine, Franciacorta. Franciacorta has made still wines since the 16th century, long before they realized that their goose bumps, caused by the region’s cool temperatures, were an indicator that great sparkling wines could be made here. In the last fifty years, a fiercely dedicated group of Franciacorta wine producers banded together demanding excellence of themselves and spreading their wines across the world to compete with the very best. The single name “Franciacorta” on the label defines the wine, the production method and the territory. Franciacorta is the first Italian wine produced exclusively by the traditional method of re-fermentation in the same bottle, and the first to obtain Italy’s highest appellation award of DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). Yields in Franciacorta are the lowest for any traditionally produced sparkling wine in Europe, including Champagne. Grapes are harvested exclusively by hand. Franciacorta DOCG wines are made with

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Chardonnay and Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) grapes, and up to 50 percent Pinot Bianco, and in the following styles: Satèn (blanc de blancs), Rosé, Millesimato (Vintage) and Riserva, made in different flavor categories from Undosed to Demi-Sec as noted here: Non-vintage: Aged at least 18 months and made in all flavor categories: Undosed, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Sec and Demi-Sec. Franciacorta Satèn: Blanc de Blancs – generally 100 percent Chardonnay. Non-vintage, aged at least 24 months. Brut flavor category only. Rosé: A minimum of 25 percent Pinot Nero. Non-vintage, aged at least 24 months. All flavor categories. Millesimato: A vintage wine with at least 85 percent of the wine from the stated vintage. Aged at least 30 months. Undosed, Extra Brut, Brut and Extra Dry flavor categories. Riserva: A Millesimato, Satèn or Rosé that has stayed on its lees for a minimum of 60 months. Undosed, Extra Brut, Brut flavor categories.

The wine cellars of il Mosnel

The Satèn style is special to Franciacorta, and in addition to being made with white grapes only, it is produced with a lower bottle pressure (finer bubbles), letting its long, lingering flavors ride across the palate in a silky wave. Satèn is both delicate and assertive at the same time, and a popular choice at fairs and events around the country. Sipped amongst Milan’s famous catwalks, Franciacorta has a natural affinity with Milan couture — both elegant expressions of the very best “Made In Italy” products. Franciacorta is the official toast of Milan Fashion Week; has a special bottling for Alitalia’s business class; has been poured in New York’s top boutiques (Dolce & Gabbana, FENDI, etc.); and is poured at celebrity and political events throughout the country. It is the wine used to celebrate every success in Milan, in Italy and beyond.

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Watching over the quality of Italy’s famous sparkling DOCG is the Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta (the Franciacorta Consortium). Founded in 1990 at Corte Franca, the Consorzio then moved to Erbusco in the heart of Franciacorta. There are 191 members (growers, wineries and bottlers) and 111 of those produce Franciacorta. The Consortium is chaired by Maurizio Zanella. A growing appreciation for Franciacorta around the world is reflected not only in the over 14 million bottles sold this past year, but also in the surface area under vine, which has increased 140 percent in the last decade. Exports grew 14 percent in 2013 [Osservatorio Economico]. From the wonderfully fruity yet intriguingly complex examples from Bellavista (“beautiful view” in Italian), Ca’ del Bosco, Ricci Curbastro and dozens of others, Franciacorta appears to be the new IT sparkler in town.

Right Top: Ronco Calino in Lombardia, Italy. Right Bottom: In the heart of Franciacorta, in Camignone, lies the historic villa of il Mosnel, with its 16thcentury wine cellars and surrounding properties that offers eloquent testimony to the venerable winemaking patrimony that the Barboglio family inherited in 1836. 22

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MAKING THE ROUNDS With Helen Benefield Billings

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“Elegant,” “enchanting” and most certainly “grand” — these are but a few adjectives that come to mind as I recall a recent stay at The Loews Don CeSar Hotel in St. Pete Beach, Florida. Opened in 1928, Florida’s legendary “Pink Palace” delivers on all levels and in particular with food and beverage service, ticking all boxes imaginable on your “must have” wish list for the perfect beach getaway. Along with the hotel’s storied history and certain glamour of a bygone era, 277 freshly refurbished rooms offer striking views of a dreamy sugar-sand beach and the Gulf of Mexico, with lovely sunsets every evening. Award-winning Maritana Grille features fresh seafood, attentive service and a great wine list. Spa Oceana is a relaxing respite from your hectic day-to-day stress. Meeting space is plentiful and scheduled hotel activities, from beach yoga and pool games to the beach and sea life education tours, are offered from sunup to sundown. After all that fun in the sand and on the beach, you’ll no doubt be thirsty for something unique and refreshing. The Lobby Bar offers a creative wine and cocktail menu; guest favorites include the Grapefruit Mojito along with the B3 Martini. Other hot spots on property for cocktails include the Beachcomber Bar & Grill and Sunsets’ Lounge.

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Grapefruit Mojito 2 oz 1 oz 1 oz ¼ oz 1 2 5

10 Cane Rum simple syrup grapefruit juice lime juice grapefruit slice lime slices mint leaves

Muddle rum, fruit and fruit juices with mint. Shake with ice and pour into highball.

B3 Martini 1 ½ oz ½ oz ½ oz 8 1 ¼ oz

Bacardi Rum lime juice simple syrup blueberries basil leaf Prosecco (to top)

Muddle the first 5 ingredients. Shake with ice and strain into martini glass. Top with Prosecco.

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SPOTLIGHT ON

François Thibault the Maitre de Chai of Grey Goose

We met at the remarkable Le Foret restaurant on Camp Street. Having had an extraordinary breakfast there with François earlier in the day, my job of interviewing him was made a lot easier, having spent some time with him and the whole Grey Goose camp. François does not speak fluent English so the brand ambassador, Guillaume Jubien, who is quite a charming man himself, interpreted. Here is the conversation that ensued over the next hour:

ITM: You grew up in Cognac and your father was a wine grower. You became a maître de chai at a fairly young age and worked for Cognac distilleries. Did you ever expect to be making fine Vodka?

Interview by Mike Raven Thursday, July 17, 2014 Tales of the Cocktail, New Orleans

FT: When I was challenged to create a new Vodka like no others, I had no idea what I was going to do. I don’t know if you saw the ad, (Grey Goose did a popular video of François in a bar with the local people, who gave him the cold shoulder) but there was serious dissension. It’s a very small region and when they heard I was going to make Vodka, it wasn’t well appreciated.

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FT: We don’t plan, or expect, being a maître de chai, what we are going to become and what we are going to achieve. But, I had a decisive feeling and understanding I wanted to achieve things that weren’t done before.

ITM: You said earlier you were inspired by the wine business. Why didn’t you use the local grape, Ugni Blanc, to ferment Grey Goose?

FT: Do you drink coffee?

ITM: Yes. FT: How many times do you filter your coffee?

ITM: Once. FT: Do you think it’s going to taste better if you start filtering 10 times or more? How about you start with the best quality of coffee?

ITM: That makes sense to me. FT: This is my philosophy. Simply, like in Cognac, my philosophy is to go for the quality of ingredients to begin with, more than anything, to all aspects – from selecting the ingredients, to overseeing every step of the production process – instead of just worrying about how many times to distill it, to remove those unnecessary impurities, because you are stripping qualities away. I want to stress the quality of its ingredients. (Pause) To not add any more tension, I did not even think of using the Ugni Blanc grape. I had to work with different types of ingredients and think out of the box – not to raise any tensions that were already there. You can make Vodka out of anything, but there was too much controversy to use the Ugni Blanc. In France, bread is king. To get the best quality and quantity, I needed to find a place and the Picardy region answered all my needs. There they have a sense of terroir, much like all of France. So when I went to pick the farmers, they had generations of family history, knowledge, traditions and culture in their region, same as in Cognac. So, I was very confident in these farmers and willing to try something different. I was looking for quality more than anything. If it was good for the best bread, which is king, it would be good for Vodka.

ITM: Grey Goose is distilled once; many types of Vodka out there claim they are distilled as many as 300 times. I find the flavor in Grey Goose amazing, so are those other brands distilling all the flavor out of their Vodka? FT: Big subject. My philosophy (for quality) is like any other brand; for them, the quality is about how many times you distill or filter. This is not my philosophy in creating Grey Goose.

We are getting to your point… ITM: I struck a nerve there, didn’t I? (Laughter)

FT: It’s a process of understanding. I did not use a copper pot still.

ITM: You use a column still, correct? FT: Yes. I know my regulations, so you have to bring it to 90 percent alcohol. If you don’t bring it there, you cannot be a Vodka. So, that was one regulation; this cannot be achieved with a copper pot still. It is distilled once, and only once. There are five separate columns. When it goes from one through five, every column works very differently; they have different temperatures and each has a unique core. So it’s not possible to keep doing it again and again … not possible … quality ingredients, calibrated five-step continuous process. Each column has a unique and specific role, if you return back for a second time, so on. This is not the recipe (rambling a little).

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ITM: Is your column still designed specifically for you? FT: Yes, I designed the plan myself.

ITM: That’s pretty scientific stuff – designing stills. You can do that? FT: Oh, yes.

ITM: Santé! (Trying the new VX, toasting) FT: I want to make sure that you understand one distillation is enough.

ITM: I’ve got it – no problem. I’m sure our readers will understand. (We continued to chat and taste the new liquid he has created, VX, while our very professional moderator, Jenna Gerbino from Harrison and Shriftman, tries to keep us on schedule.) FT: I had my conditions with Sidney Frank you know; he had no interest in creating a liquid that was overly rectified. I have my way of doing things. I want to be controlling all aspects of creating the liquid. I want to pick my ingredients, to choose the way I do the fermentation, and to design the distillation plant – to achieve something different! I wanted to go beyond what people of the world know of Vodka.

(I have changed the subject to the new product, Grey Goose VX.) ITM: Now about the new Grey Goose VX – what is the percentage of Cognac in the product? FT: Five percent Cognac, 95 percent Grey Goose. That we don’t hide, it is on the bottle.

ITM: What Cognac is used in XV? FT: I had two options, old or young. Old would have full flavor, great tannin, complexity; or, something that has not been aged long. It would be better, with a delicate white spirit like Grey Goose, to marry it with something young, with something that has a closer aspect to a white spirit, so I went for a young Cognac. Young Cognac does not have the aging aspects of aged Cognacs. It would be a little more floral and light. I oversee all aspects of the Cognac used. I’m really trying to express the terroir and the central notes of the Cognac, which I like to call the “spring” notes.

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Very floral, a sense of freshness and a very light stone fruit, white fruit, peach, apricots, very light touch of acacia. Like a woman – very delicate, with a sense of freshness.

ITM: Is there a specific age you cut off at before it becomes too bold in color and flavor? FT: Yes, between one and never more than two years old. We use very old barrels so they won’t express their stringent effects into the Cognac. Close to crystal clear as possible.

ITM: How would you like to see VX used — cocktails, apéritifs? Chilled, neat or with ice? FT: It is meant to be drunk chilled, not to be drunk at room temperature. Should I talk in Fahrenheit?

ITM: Yes, if you like. FT: Then, chilled would be 32 to 43 F. Or with a little bit of ice cubes if you must … I do not recommend bitters or citrus. Be very gentle with it. You should keep in the refrigerator, not the freezer.

ITM: You should be. FT: Merci.

(A conversation occurred about using the freezer or refrigerator to chill Grey Goose. Use the refrigerator for your Grey Goose for best taste. The freezer gets it too cold and strips the flavor.)

FT: I always have to deal with the Cognac region and I do not want to steal the moment from them. Now they are very proud of Grey Goose; the VX is kind of a homage to Cognac. GJ: François has had this dream for decades – being a maître de chai. He has interests in eaux de vie, fine Cognacs and so on, so when he had the opportunity and support to produce this liquid, he was very happy to bring it home to Cognac. This new spirit celebrates Cognac.

ITM: Merci beaucoup pour votre temps et partage la création de VX. FT: Votre très bienvenue. Salut.

ITM: It may be a problem if it sits on the back bar then, at room temperature.

Special thanks go to: Guillaume Jubien, Brand Ambassador for Grey Goose, for interpreting for us.

FT: You will have to use ice; it is better in the cold box, if possible. Just like Grey Goose, it has a distinct character and a taste we are proud of.

Vanessa Ortiz, Bacardi National On Premise – Marketing Jenna Gerbino, Harrison & Shriftman, for her help in setting up everything.

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TAKE 5 Shirley Whelan, Hilton Hotels Corporation Director of F&B Product Development ITM: What does it truly mean to think beyond the table tent? SW: We aim for our beverage programming to be a win for our guests, our hotels, our team members and our supplier partners. We want to make a connection with our guests by offering them something compelling and unique that they can only experience at one of our hotels. A pretty table tent with a snappy name does not necessarily equate to a successful promotion. The key is to have the guest want to remain on property, order that second drink and/or stay for dinner. We like to offer the guest the opportunity to try something new and to give them access to as much information as they would like to explore.

ITM: To follow up, how do the guests receive access to this information you mentioned on new products? SW: Team Member education is critical. We include basic product or program information on the collateral and then utilize QR codes or augmented reality that allows the guest to drill down as far as they would like to go through video, website links and product information sheets.

ITM: Nobody likes a checkup, but how has your Bar Doctor program been a success? SW: I am very proud of our Bar Doctor program. It is designed to address multiple symptoms that a bar or restaurant may be suffering from like high beverage cost, low check average, speed of service, organization, team member engagement, etc. The Bar Doctor team identifies the symptoms, does a forensic analysis of the operation, makes a house call if necessary and then

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tailors the treatment to the specific need of the hotel. Once the issue is resolved, we continue to monitor their health for a minimum of 90 days. We learn something from each case we treat, allowing the program to always be evolving and improving. The Doctors are successful if for no other reason than they inspire our F&B management teams to pay closer attention to our most profitable revenue center!

ITM: How has the influx of beverage data changed your program strategy? SW: In the past, the approach to beverage programming was driven by hotel flag. Our internal sales data reporting now shows us exactly what our guests are ordering by region and hotel type (which does not necessarily follow the same trends that outside data show!). What influences a guestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s selection at an airport hotel in Boston is not what that same guest may want while sitting in a lobby lounge in Honolulu. We now custom design our programs accordingly, creating multiple approaches to the same featured product, allowing our F&B directors to select the option that is right for their operation.

ITM: Tracking hotel sales has become standard for all Hilton promotions. How important is this information? SW: From the hotelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; perspective, it allows for a little friendly competition among their peers and makes it easy for them to see how they rank against each other. From a corporate F&B team perspective, it gives us real-time data, allowing us to monitor compliance as well as giving us a transparent view into how much each hotel is putting into the program. We give them weekly sales goals that are easy to achieve with a little effort, but it is amazing how well they do when they put a little muscle into it!

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A new generation of brewers and distillers are experimenting with unusual flavors and targeting industry trends in the process.

At Tennessee’s Corsair Distillery, you’ll find many of the hallmarks of today’s on-trend craft distillers and brewers. They use brash terms like “booze for badasses” alongside quality-driven descriptors like “handcrafted” and “small batch.” Whiskeys are made in a 100-year-old pot still, and the team seeks out old recipe books for inspiration. And yet, when it comes to the spirits themselves, Corsair is anything but traditional. Amaranth, teff, buckwheat, spelt — Corsair has used them all in their various Whiskeys. They 34

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make a quinoa Vodka with quinoa sourced from the Andean mountains. They use triticale, a new grain variety developed by crossing wheat and rye. And a number of their Whiskeys are distilled from beers or made using hops, such as Hopmonster, Oatmeal Stout Whiskey, Rasputin, the latter being an experimental variety distilled from a Russian imperial stout beer. Corsair is just one of a new generation of distillers and brewers who are becoming more ambitious and experimental with their products. Now that the American craft beer and spirit industries have reached a point of maturity, new producers are shaking things up in an attempt to stand out and find a niche for more unusual varieties, while still maintaining an authentic and artisan image. Instead of sweet spirits with artificial flavors, they are distilling directly from alternative grains, fruits and vegetables. Washington’s Wishkah River Distillery is quick to point out that its Vodka is distilled from, not “flavored with,” honey.

Brewers, meanwhile, are infusing beer during the brewing process with ingredients like peanuts and seaweed or, more specifically, sugar kelp, a variety of seaweed. Sugar kelp is used in the Sea Belt Scotch Ale from Maine’s Marshall Wharf Brewing Co., a brewery known for its unusual varieties, including Pemaquid Oyster Stout. The well-known Flying Dog Brewery makes a similar offering, Pearl Necklace Oyster Stout, from Rappahannock River oysters. Like the oysters in both of those brews, “local” plays an important part for both the brewers and distillers who are sourcing the ingredients, and for marketing purposes. Multiple Northeastern distillers make spirits from maple syrup. Vermont Gold Vodka is distilled from the state’s maple sap, while Tree Spirits’ Knotted Maple is distilled directly from the company’s maple wine. You’ll find Vodka distilled from pineapples in Hawaii by Pau Maui and from oranges in Florida by 4 Orange, as well as Whiskey made from Louisiana rice in New Orleans by Atelier Vie. In California, you can find a liqueur distilled from aloe grown in the state by Chareau and an apéritif made from the state’s poppies by Greenbar. At Washington’s broVo Spirits, the company makes liquors distilled with local ingredients like Douglas fir needles and rose geraniums, each sweetened with agave nectar and sold at a lower proof to readily mix into cocktails. Other producers are inspired by global spirits, buoyed by consumer interest in products like Cachaça (made from sugar cane) and Mezcal (the maguey plant). New Mexico’s Leche Spirits distributes Milk Money Vodka, imported from New Zealand and distilled entirely from milk (the bottle is designed to evoke an oldfashioned milk bottle). Nahmias et Fils Distillery, located just outside of New York City, revives the nearly-lost spirit Mahia, distilled from dried figs

and originally created in Morocco. Traditionally brewed by Jewish Moroccans, the spirit is also certified kosher, opening up another market for Nahmias et Fils, which has exhibited at kosher trade shows. Whether it’s kosher or gluten-free, in many cases an unusual ingredient can help a spirit or beer reach a new or specific customer base. Chicago’s Koval Distillery proudly advertises their single barrel Millet Whiskey as “naturally gluten-free” due to their pioneering use of millet. The company also makes an organic Brandy made from Wisconsin sunchokes and a German Bierbrand (beer Schnapps) made from Metropolitan Brewery Lager, embracing the best of both worlds — craft spirits and craft beer. Many breweries and distilleries, like the previously mentioned Corsair, are creating craft spirits distilled directly from craft beers or using traditional beer ingredients, often as an extension of a product line or as a product of a local business relationship. Rogue Ales Brewery uses many of their beers in a line of spirits, like the company’s Chipotle Spirit, distilled directly from Rogue’s Chipotle Ale in a copper pot still. North Shore Distillery recently introduced their SommerWeizen spirit, an “abstract interpretation” of the German wheat beer Hefeweizen, in which hops and botanicals are distilled and blended into a wheat Whiskey. For operators, these unusual spirits can set the cocktail menu apart from the competition while providing another opportunity to add an ontrend flavor to the drink menu. Many of the flavors found in these spirits and beers speak directly to overall industry trends, from specific ingredients to macro trends like local and gluten-free. At Datassential, we study trends using our MenuTrends database, which tracks over 1 million menu items, and INSIDER, which tracks new menu items and LTOs at top chains. Quinoa, for instance, has consistently been one of the fastestgrowing ingredients on menus, found

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on over 400 percent more menus versus four years ago. Sunchokes, meanwhile, are up 288 percent, nori is up 60 percent and figs are up 50 percent. Why should operators track these numbers and trends? Because a majority of consumers say their tastes are shaped by their restaurant experiences. Understanding the trend landscape can help brands and operators develop drinks incorporating the products into the cocktails that consumers are increasingly encountering when dining out. A summery Moscow Mule made with honey-distilled Vodka and lemon juice, for instance, has the potential to reach far more consumers than it did even a few years ago, with the Moscow Mule

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found on 753 percent more menus and the â&#x20AC;&#x153;honey lemonâ&#x20AC;? flavor combination up 107 percent. And what should we look forward to in the future from these innovative brewers and distillers? If the fastest growing ingredients and flavors over the past year are any indication, watch out for Kale Vodka, Celery Root Liqueur and Trumpet Mushroom Porter (actually, Smuttynose already makes the latter). This article has been provided by Maeve Webster, senior director, and Mike Kostyo, publications manager, of Datassential, a leading consulting firm and supplier of trends, analysis and concept testing for the food industry.

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NEWSWORTHY

Anniversaries Worth Noting

Left to right: Eric Wente, Karl Wente, Carolyn Wente, Christine Wente, Phil Wente Wente Vineyards, America’s oldest, continuously operated

and family-owned winery and First Family of Chardonnay, celebrates its 130th anniversary this year. Wente Vineyards has been a leader in the world of wine for five generations, and was one of only a few wineries to put Livermore Valley on the worldwide map. With fourth generation and winegrower Carolyn Wente now leading the winery business, Wente Vineyards continues to be innovative in every aspect of grape growing, winemaking and the global business of wine.

Charlie Wagner, Jenny Wagner, Joe Wagner and their father and founder, Chuck Wagner Caymus Vineyards is celebrating the 40th vintage of their

Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with the release of the 2012 vintage. Caymus Vineyards began in the fall of 1971 when Charlie and Lorna Wagner, together with their son Chuck, started their new winery venture. The following year (1972), Caymus Vineyards made their first Cabernet Sauvignon and began a 40-year tradition of consistent world-class Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon production. Caymus Vineyards is commemorating the occasion of their 40th vintage with a special, limited edition package and a year’s worth of festive activities. 38

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Eddie Russell, and his father, Jimmy Russell

As Jimmy Russell, the elder statesman of the Bourbon industry, celebrates his 60th year, he is recognized as longesttenured, active master distiller in the world. A living legend in the global spirits industry, Jimmy has nurtured Wild Turkey® Whiskey for an astonishing 60 years. Wild Turkey is proud to release Diamond Anniversary, a commemorative Bourbon, in his honor. With the seal of approval from both Jimmy and Eddie Russell, the limited edition mingling of 13- and 16-year-old Whiskies is as special a Bourbon as Jimmy is a distiller.

The Brotherhood Winery is commonly acknowledged as “America’s Oldest Winery,” and they are celebrating their 175th anniversary. Located in Washingtonville, New York, a community in the Hudson Valley, Brotherhood Winery produced its first commercial vintage in 1839. In 2000, the winery was added to the National Register of Historic Places. The winery was known for its Vitis Labruscabased wines, some seasoned with fresh herbs and spices and based on 19th-century formulas, and its spiced wine, or “holiday wine,” has been a winery best seller for many years. Brotherhood’s various specialty wines include a version similar to Mead, which is named Sheba Te’j Honey Wine and is made from wildflower honey and an Ethiopianstyle honey. Under the ownership of Cesar Baeza (1987), the winery has begun creating wines from Vitis Vinifera grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling and White Zinfandel.

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LEGAL

TTB Proposal Requiring Serving Facts on Alcoholic Beverages Could be Costly for Industry By Taylor N. Burras and Jordan R. Bernstein

With consumers paying close attention to food and beverage product labels, government regulatory agencies have felt compelled to consider amending regulations to require inclusion of nutritional information on alcoholic beverage product labels. Currently, disclosing nutritional and caloric information on alcoholic beverage labels is voluntary. However, if the voluntary disclosure becomes mandatory, manufacturers of alcoholic beverages will have to undergo significant changes to their labeling and production processes to comply with the new requirements.

the Serving Facts panel, which may be detrimental to brand recognition.

Potential Impact of Mandatory Labeling

While the formal process for comments and objections to Notice No. 73â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s potentially mandatory nutrition and alcohol content labeling rules has concluded, industry members can take matters into their own hands by contacting the Regulations and Rulings Division of the Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau and/or their local congressmen to express their concerns. They may also contact alcoholic industry advocacy groups such as the Wine Institute, National Alcohol Beverage Control Association, or Brewers Association to find out what they are doing to stop these regulations from going into effect and how they can help.

Spirit manufacturers, wine producers and brewers believe that inclusion of calorie and nutrient information on alcoholic beverage product labels should remain voluntary. Changing the labeling requirements will likely have significant cost impacts on all alcoholic beverage product manufacturers, particularly smaller batch producers of spirits, beer and wine, through the following: 1) Cost of new labeling equipment or costs to upgrade equipment 2) L osses attributable to disruption in production for the purpose of installing new equipment 3) C ost of redesigning labels and for new label stock 4) C ost of investing in laboratory testing equipment or laboratory services to test for calorie, carbohydrate and other required nutrient content information Additionally, there are aesthetic concerns to consider. If the proposed rules become mandatory, some industry members may be forced to change the shape and/or size of their labels entirely to include

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Also, the composition of spirits, wine and beer are inherently variable with the alcohol and residual sugar levels varying significantly among styles as well as years, regions, use of additives, etc. For example, it is also not uncommon for winemakers to adjust a wine blend to meet a specific style, or maintain consistency within a particular vintage right up to the time of bottling. Similarly, brewers take various steps with malt and yeast adjustments.

Jordan Bernstein and Taylor Burras are attorneys in Michelman & Robinson LLPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hospitality and Restaurant, Food & Beverage Practice Groups. Michelman & Robinson has offices in Los Angeles, Orange County, San Francisco, Sacramento and New York. Bernstein and Burras may be reached at (818)783-5530 or by email at jbernstein@mrllp.com and tburras@mrllp.com. For more information, analyses, and solutions, visit HospitalityLawyer.com and our CONVERGE blog.

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Doorways to

Excitement

by Ned Barker

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We enter an unmarked doorway on a side street in Manhattan, guided by directions we stumbled across online. At the end of a long, narrow but high-ceiling hall, we are “greeted” by a guard who wants to know why we’re there. We’re passed through and are directed down another hall and up a staircase, where we come upon a storeroom with an ice machine. We are staring at a door marked “exit.” Of course, that’s when we know we’ve arrived. The exit door is really the entrance to the rooftop speakeasy. More speakeasy silliness? Gimmicky? Faux? We had a good time and the fun started with the entry. In fact, the entry experience has stayed with us. What’s wrong with having fun by pretending, for just a moment, that we’ve entered another time or place? One Yelp! reviewer asked the same question and pointed out that people still go to Disney World. I would add that people are still going to speakeasies. The speakeasy entry experience, when done well, creates a moment of mystery, surprise and delight for the guest. The better speakeasies extend the experience with touch points of history and authenticity. And they also enhance the experience with top-notch mixology. Pravda in New York City (Soho) comes to mind; the underground Russian bomb shelter speakeasy-type bar hits on all cylinders. The question I’d like to pose is this:

The speakeasy entry experience, when done well, creates a moment of mystery, surprise and delight for the guest.

Can a non-speakeasy bar use its normal tools of trade (menus, uniforms, décor touch points) to evoke the same sense of mystery, surprise and delight? I’ve categorized three types of speakeasy entry experience. Usually one or two of these will be encountered in a speakeasy visit.

A prime example of secret entrances is the Edgewood Speakeasy whose entrance is through this bookcase inside of Pizzeria Vesuvius in Atlanta, Ga. There’s a protruding, thick gray book called Deliver Us from Evil. Pull it, and the bookcase is actually a door. Fall 2014 • itmmag.com

Let’s call the first speakeasy entrance experience the “Clark Kent.” It is an entry with a mild-mannered look that blends with its environment but is really something more – much more – if you know how or where to look. The simple unmarked doorway is the best example. Sometimes these are inside another restaurant, like Los Angeles’ The Varnish (inside Cole’s Deli), or New York City’s Angel’s Share (inside Village Yokocho, in the East Village). Or they may be inside a hotel lobby, as with The Parker Palm Springs’ Mister Parker’s. Other Clark Kent type entries are outdoors, like the back entrance to Barringer Bar in downtown Houston’s Fourth Ward. Bourbon and Branch’s entry at Jones and O’Farrell in San Francisco is likewise nondescript, except for the Anti-Saloon League sign. Is Clark Kent telling a joke?

Above: Simple unmarked doorway disguising Mister Parker’s entry Right: Open the disguised door to reveal Mister Parker’s

Barringer Bar back entrance

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Some speakeasies engage the technique of “Misdirection” over secret identity. One notable Misdirection entry is the walk-in refrigerator doorway (yes, a commercial kitchen walk-in) for Eleanor’s in the back of Muss & Turner’s, an Atlanta area (Smyrna) “deli” on steroids. Another is San Diego’s The Noble Experiment, where one enters through a wall of beer kegs. Also remarkable: the contrast between the beer keg “doorway” and the bar’s ambience, which features a chandelier, intricate paintings on the ceiling, white booths and an overall Gothic style featuring a gold skull wall. It would be hard to surpass the Misdirection at The Blind Barber, with locations in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Los Angeles (Culver City). Yes, it’s a barbershop – cuts are $40 but a trim is just $20. Neither is required for entry into the speakeasy, if you can find the right door in the back of the shop.

Right: The Noble Experiment Below: The Blind Barber

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Left and Above: Eleanor’s

I’m going to call the third style of entry “Quiz Show,” as customer knowledge is required. At Atlanta’s Prohibition, the would-be guest needs to know both the secret phone number and the secret password. You step into the red London-style phone booth, dial the number, drop the password, and then push through the wall. Bourbon and Branch uses a more traditional approach, requiring utterance of the correct password to enter. (With apologies to Groucho, it’s not “swordfish.”)

Back to the premise of the article: Can a nonspeakeasy bar evoke the experiences of Clark Kent, Misdirection and/or Quiz Show to its advantage? I think so. Let’s consider Clark Kent. What makes it work? Anticipation. And mystery. Consider the smiles people have while unwrapping a holiday gift – Clark Kent is unassuming, wrapped with plain brown paper. Could a non-speakeasy bar replicate this sense of excitement by offering a menu that generates anticipation? Wilson & Wilson, located in Bourbon and Branch, presents its menus in a plain brown case file. Another variation of the Clark Kent experience might be created with a “secret menu.” How about Misdirection? Its key elements involve the use of humor and/or contrast. These entries, as opposed to Clark Kent experiences, make

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me laugh aloud; they instill a sense of curiosity about what lies behind them. While Clark Kent is humble and modest, Misdirection entrances are outrageous. A non-speakeasy might concoct something equally outrageous – a menu printed on a deck of cards, or hidden inside a deck of cards or a cards box, or a menu folded and hidden in a matchbox. Interestingly, these shocking entries are often juxtaposed against subtle, sophisticated or lush interior environments. Humor can be built into a menu or menu presentation. The unexpected contrast might be found in drink presentations, even in the style of glassware or in uniform selection. I don’t like gimmicks, but the image of ashtrays with matchbooks juxtaposed with “no smoking” signs could lead to some fun first-time experiences for customers. The Quiz Show represents a way to engage the customer actively and directly while the other entries are essentially passive. The biggest opportunity for any bar operator is to establish a connection with the customer prior to their coming to the bar. The Quiz Show approach helps you connect with customers by encouraging them to visit your website or ask around to get the phone number, password, high sign or whatever it is that is needed to gain entry. How valuable is that opportunity? Non-speakeasies wanting the same benefit might join a mobile app site designed to help with this engagement, such as Foursquare or Scoutmob. Secret menus, humor, contrast and even customer pre-engagement may not be necessary for a successful bar, but maybe there’s a lesson, tip or idea for your bar behind one of these doors.

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The Magic of Old World Sparkling Wines – other than Champagne

by Edward M. Korry CHE, CSS CWE As most Champagne is expensive, consumers frequently look to alternatives, many of which share the refreshing delights and complexity of that paradigm of bubbly. Fortunately, there are seemingly countless choices from disparate appellations across Europe to please every palate. My SWE colleague, Paul Wagner, is writing about the complex wines of Franciacorta and refreshing Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene in this issue, so I will focus on other notable sparkling wines of Europe. France – To begin with, there are the “crémants” of now eight different French wine regions (Jura has just been given that assignation) such as Crémant de Loire, including Saumur Mousseux and Crémant d’Alsace, which I will highlight as they have a broad U.S. market. Produced in the traditional/classic method, many reflect fruit simplicity while others provide more complex autolytic notes of brioche and nuttiness, for example, symbolized by Champagne. Crémant de Loire is produced primarily in Saumur but includes Anjou and Touraine appellations; it is a blend dominated by Chenin Blanc but may include Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pineau d’Aunis. Brut with Chenin’s racy acidity and tiny bubbles, for which

Champagne is known, is reflected in available producers including Domaines de Baumard, Bouvet-Ladubay, Gratien & Meyer, Langlois-Chateau and Deligeroy.

Langlois-Chateau

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Crémant d’Alsace has been the focus of producers as it now represents 22 percent of Alsace’s total production and is the most popularly consumed bubbly in France. Its great value and quality have commensurately driven soaring growth in the U.S. The wine is made from Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling and, increasingly, Chardonnay. Look for Albert Mann, Pierre Sparr, Willm and Lucien Albrecht, the latter being a favorite of mine. Other interesting sparklers from France include the sweet and low alcohol Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale from southwest France, which is made from the indigenous Mauzac variety. It is made in the ancestral method, in which the wine undergoes its fermentation in the bottle due to residual sugar in the grape juice. It is not disgorged so is a little cloudy as the lees deposits remain in the wine. This wine was invented by the monks of Saint-Hilaire in 1531 and may be one of the first sparkling wines to have been produced. This wine is not to be confused with the dry Blanquette de Limoux, made with a minimum of 90 percent Mauzac but in the traditional/classic method, with nine months aging offering the green apple flavors and autolytic biscuity note. The Clairette de Die Méthode Ancestrale (located east of the Rhône) is made in a similar method to the Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale and tastes even more similar to Asti, with a minimum of the same perfumy and aromatic variety — the Muscat à petits grains — but, in this case, also blended with up to 15 percent of the Clairette grape. This sweet but balanced wine is a perfect apéritif on a hot summer’s day or as an accompaniment to salty appetizers such as prosciutto and salami, not to mention a wide range of desserts.

Italy – Asti DOCG had gotten somewhat of a bad rap as a low end, introductory bulk-method wine. However, it definitely has a place on the table or on the patio, especially for hypersensitive tasters who decry high alcohol (read 12%+ abv) or tannin in wine. Asti’s producers have an underlying fear that the dramatically rising popularity of Moscato in the U.S. market will ultimately hurt the reputation of quality Muscat-based wines such as Asti DOCG. More distinctive and sweeter, but less sparkling and less alcoholic, is the “frizzante” Moscato d’Asti DOCG. It is vintage released as opposed to Asti and has the fresh grapey, floral characteristic of the Muscat grape. It’s a deliciously refreshing dessert wine that will pair beautifully with tarts and cheeses. There are many widely available top producers but none more so than Michele Chiarlo, whose Nivole exudes charm and is utterly delicious. Another sparkler from the Piedmont region and made using the “cuve close” (bulk) method is the Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG. Resuscitated from near extinction 30+ years ago, this low alcohol, sweet sparkling light red wine is pure delectable hedonism. It exudes raspberries and strawberries laced with rose petals and spice aromas in the glass. Not only perfect as a Valentine’s Day wine, the Brachetto pairs wonderfully with strawberries dipped in chocolate or can be the romantic wine of choice at any festivities including weddings. Banfi’s Rosa Regale is consistently superior and widely available in our market.

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Germany – I have no doubt that Germans celebrated their World Cup victory by breaking open vast numbers of cases of Sekt. Germans are the most prodigious sparkling wine drinkers in the world and consume most of Sekt. Almost all Sekt is made in the “cuve close” method and much with imported grape juice, though some are made from specific varietals only from German appellations and labeled varietally, such as Riesling Sekt b.A. The most highly prized are vintage and single producer Winzersekt b.A., which must be vinified using only estate grapes and the traditional/classic method, making them a challenge to find. Henkell and Deinhart represent large brands that do have a presence in our market and are great values.

Penedès, near Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, Spain

A vineyard in Germany showing its brilliant fall colors.

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Spain – From the cool northerly climate of Germany, we travel to the Penedès region in Catalonia, not far from Barcelona. Cava DO, which refers to the “cave(s)” or where the wines are cellared, is an appellation that includes eight regions. The center of production is Penedès, located primarily around the village of Sant Sadurni d’Anoia and contributing 95 percent of total production. The origins of this 18 million-case sparkling wine industry in Spain date back to the 1860s, though production of traditional/classic method sparkling wines dates back to 1872 when Josep Ravento applied the methods he observed on his travels to Champagne. The primary grape types include the indigenous Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo varieties, which lend a distinctive flavor profile to the wines. The Cava industry is reflective of capitalism at its most ruthless efficiency. The dusty village harbors two world wine giants, Freixenet and Codorniu, that are found in all world markets. Their intense competition over the last century and a half led to innovations (e.g., the gyropalettes replacing hand-riddling) and a move to include varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The inland elevation of the Penedès provides the diurnal temperature range for the grapes to maintain acidity though Cava wines tend to be less acidic than many other regions’ wines such as Prosecco. A slight green note with a

Left column, top to bottom: Freixenet Caves, Penedès, Sant Sadurni, Winery Caves Right column, top to bottom, left to right: Carta Nevada Brut, Cordon Negro Brut, Freixenet Brut Vintage Reserva, NV

hint of bitterness used to be a feature of the wines but that has dissipated as producers veer away from cool temperature anaerobic fermentation. Competition between the giants led to economy of scale and efficiencies resulting in wines that sold inexpensively, perceived by consumers as part of the lower end premium wine market. It has been a huge challenge for smaller producers (there are over 250), as well as the leaders, to convince the market that they have wines worthy of the higher upper premium or luxury markets, even though a few wines sell at luxury Champagne prices. Ironically, the descendant of the aforementioned Ravento, who helped to create Cava, has moved away from marketing his wines as Cava DO and, instead, uses, along with a dozen other producers, a broader appellation of Spanish sparkling wine. There is even a proposal for a new appellation, Conca Del Rui Anoia, with higher, more rigorous standards including limiting the wines to using only organic grapes. The minimum lees aging for Cava DO is nine months; for reserve wines it’s 15 months and Gran Reserva is 30 months. I emphasize that doesn’t mean there aren’t very good Cava wines; many continue to represent very good value, examples of which include the wines of Cristalino, Castelroig Brut and Segura Viudas. At the higher end are Recaredo and Gramona, which produce spectacular wines and are both available at the $25 range all the way to $100 at the high end.

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Portugal – Portugal’s best sparkling wines are Espumante da Bairrada DOC, which emanates from a cool maritime-quality sparkling wine region, as it has to be produced using the traditional/ classic method. What makes the wine unique are the indigenous grapes grown including the white aromatic Maria Gomes (Fernão Pires) and the minerally and tart Arinto, Bical and Cercial (and more recently Chardonnay and Pinot Noir). The dominant variety in this region is the tannic but high acid Baga grape, which can be used for its blanc de noirs and rosés. Some very good examples of Portuguese vineyard in late autumn.

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Espumante include Caves Alianca, Caves do Solar Sao Domingos, and Filipa Pato. While I haven’t delved here into the sparkling wines of England and Wales, or of Hungary and other European wine regions, be assured there is so much to explore these days. And there is enough interest in the eclectic as well as the widely-available brands that it is not too difficult to differentiate your sales and give your customers a different story for them to experience. As the French say, “Vive la difference!”

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by Mike Raven Is Straight Rye Whiskey Prepared To Be The Next Darling Of The Whiskey World?

Once a favorite of the “Greatest Generation,” straight Rye Whiskey had all but faded into obscurity with only a few old dusty bottles lingering around the back bar. In its day, bold and spicy Rye Whiskey was always used to make an old-fashioned or Manhattan. Similar to Bourbon in the way it’s made, the difference lies in the mash. Bourbon must be 51 percent corn, which gives it its sweeter character, while Rye must be 51 percent rye, which tends to have a spicier flavor. In fact, this new generation of Rye Whiskies has a much higher rye content, many of which are in the 90-percentile range. In my quest to discover more about this category, I asked The Modern Mixologist and ITM contributor, Tony Abou-Ganim, what he thought about the future of Rye Whiskey in today’s cocktail environment. He had this to say, “As more and more bars and bartenders resurrect tipples such as the Sazerac and the Rattlesnake, as well as fashion their own contemporary classic cocktails, the straight Rye Whiskey category will not only continue to grow but will flourish!” One hurdle for today’s Rye producers is to orientate today’s consumer to the attributes of Rye Whiskey as opposed to other types in its class, such as Bourbons, Wheat Whiskey, blends and so on. I would assume every indigenous drinker in New Orleans is familiar with straight Rye Whiskey, due to the popularity and Designed by Kester Cockrell-Chau 56

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history of the Sazerac and Vieux Carré cocktails. But getting it popularized into the mainstream of hotels and lounges may take a little time. Looking for a little insight, I asked Joey Scorza, the revered longtime head bartender at the InterContinental Miami, what role Rye Whiskey plays in her cocktail bar. She answered, “Rye is more popular today than ever, especially with the classics, the Manhattan and old-fashioned. True Rye drinkers know their Rye, and then we get customers that have never tasted Rye. I find the best way for them to appreciate the taste is to have them sample the different Ryes we carry before they order a cocktail. I love doing this because it is collaboration and they really do notice the difference in their drink.”

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It seems straight Rye Whiskey needs a champion cocktail. Some would say it’s the Sazerac. It could be, but the Herbsaint and Peychaud’s bitters combo may be a little much for the majority. Consider its New Orleans cousin, the Vieux Carré — a lot going on in that drink and it’s not a mainstream taste at all. Oldfashioned, Manhattan? Maybe. I’m not sure these drinks will ever fly with the Millennials, but you never know. Rye and ginger is always a good call — simple and tastes good. After all, one of the most famous drinks ever is a Jack and Coke (something I’ve always thought of as a good waste of Jack). I suggest a Rye Smash — easy to make but still a good bar drink. Its recipe is so old even Baby Boomers don’t know its origin. I read where cocktail historian David Wondrich described it as the most popular drink of its time (the height of popularity for the smash was in the 1850s and it remained a favorite of imbibers well past the Civil War). See Templeton’s version below. To dig into this cocktail thing a little deeper, I asked bon vivant Brittany Chardin, head shaker at Movers & Shakers Beverage

Consulting, for her idea of the classic Rye cocktail recipe. She gave her usual enthusiastic answer to my question. “I am a fan of many spirit-forward Rye drinks — the Vieux Carré, Sazerac, Rye Manhattans, Greenpoint — but the one standout for me is the Boulevardier. This Whiskey-based kissing cousin of the Negroni as well as the Manhattan, was invented in Paris in the late 1920s and is my top fall and winter months’ go-to cocktail. I serve it on the rocks, as there is something very meditative about the clinking sound of ice, specifically in Whiskey, that is the closest to a cozy fire-going-in-the-hearth-whilethe-wind-blows-outside sound that I can think of. “For the Boulevardier, I do a slight ratio adjustment from the classic Negroni and I use Carpano Antica Formula as the Vermouth, for the richer mouth feel as well as for the orange and caramel notes. This slightly softens but plays well with the dryer, bracing and bittersweet flavors of the Campari and the Rye, in the way that Benedictine and Yellow Chartreuse do in the Vieux Carré and Greenpoint. Given the huge bartender love for both Rye and Campari, this drink should be more popular than it is. Time for a comeback, within a comeback!”

Rye Smash 2 oz Templeton Rye 1 oz fresh lemon juice 1 oz simple syrup 2 mint leaves Combine all ingredients in an Oldfashioned glass. Lightly muddle one mint leaf. Fill glass with crushed ice. Garnish with remaining mint.

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The Boulevardier 2 oz Rye (Bulleit, Redemption, Templeton or Rittenhouse are favorites) 1 oz Campari 1 oz sweet Vermouth Stir ingredients together in a mixing glass three-fourths filled with ice, for 30 rotations. Strain into a rocks glass threefourths filled with ice or over one large ice cube. Garnish with a twist of lemon or orange peel, drinkers’ preference.

With all that being said, I took some time to cumulate notes on some Rye Whiskies. I can’t wait to try them in these cocktails. Enjoy!

Bulleit Rye One of the more popular brands is Bulleit Rye. It was only a matter of time before Tom Bulleit created a Rye Whiskey to complement his already popular Bourbon. It boasts a very high rye content of 95 percent rye with 5 percent malted barley in the balance. Bulleit Rye is an awardwinning, small-batch straight Rye Whiskey with a character of unparalleled spice and complexity. Released in 2011, it continues to enjoy recognition as one of the highest quality Ryes available. The flavor is notably smooth with hints of vanilla, honey, and spice, and offered at 90 proof. Fall 2014 • itmmag.com

Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey Until Prohibition, New York was known for its Rye Whiskey. This feisty spirit was the basis for the legendary Manhattan cocktail. Rye had not been produced in New York for over 80 years, but Tuthilltown Spirits’ Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey signals the return of the quintessential New York Whiskey. Made from whole grain rye one batch at a time, it is not the blended Rye Whiskey your parents used to mix with soda. This is honest Rye Whiskey at 92 proof. It is fruity, floral and smooth, with a recognizable rye edge that leaves no doubt about the origin of the spirit. Each bottle is hand-filled, capped, waxed and numbered. You owe it to yourself to try this return of a classic American spirit.

Knob Creek Knob Creek, known for their Kentucky Bourbon, makes a mighty fine straight Rye also. It is made in small batches, patiently aged in the deepest charred barrels and bottled at a full 100 proof to maintain their approach to big flavor. And what big flavor it is! Using the highest quality rye is what gives it its unique spicy and smooth flavor.

Whistle Pig Rye WhistlePig Rye is a 100 proof straight Rye Whiskey bottled on a historic farm on 230 acres in Vermont. The WhistlePig farm only bottles the product, they don’t produce it. They are, in fact restoring one of the barns to build the WhistlePig distillery. On their acreage, they grow some of the finest organic winter rye grain around, which they will use in their “farm-to-bottle” single estate distillery. I can’t wait! Meanwhile, enjoy this exceptional example of fine 100 proof Rye Whiskey. By the way, they do have pigs on the farm — special pigs, Mangalitsa pigs. But that’s not why it’s called WhistlePig. 60

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Jack Daniel’s Rested Tennessee Rye The Jack Daniel Distillery is offering a limited release of Jack Daniel’s Rested Tennessee Rye, a follow-up to its 2012 Unaged Tennessee Rye offering. What a difference a few years makes! It has been charcoal mellowed and matured in new white oak barrels “resting” quietly in their barrelhouses. The spicy character from the rye grain remains from the original Unaged Rye, but the barrels have asserted their toasted oak and vanilla notes into the Whiskey. This marks the distillery’s first barrel-matured expression into the Rye category. They say it’s a one-time offering; I hope not. Jack Daniel’s Rested Rye is available in select U.S. markets.

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Sazerac Rye Whiskey Sazerac Rye Whiskey symbolizes the tradition and history of Rye Whiskey as well as New Orleans. This famous Rye Whiskey dates back to the 1800s, when saloons, known as coffee houses, were lining the streets of New Orleans. It was at the Sazerac Coffee House on Royal Street where local patrons were served Antoine Peychaud’s cocktail, which became known as the Sazerac Cocktail, and America’s first branded cocktail was born.

Templeton Rye When Prohibition outlawed the manufacture and sale of alcoholic beverages in 1920, many enterprising residents of a small town in Iowa chose to become outlaws by producing a high caliber and much sought-after Whiskey known as Templeton Rye. Based on its extremely smooth finish, the American Rye Whiskey earned the nickname of “The Good Stuff ” and quickly brought a certain degree of fame to Templeton (pop. 350). As the premium brand of the era, Templeton Rye fetched an impressive $5.50 per gallon, or approximately $70 by today’s standards. Over the course of its storied history, Templeton Rye became Al Capone’s Whiskey of choice, quickly finding its way to the center of his bootlegging empire. Hundreds of kegs per month were supplied to Capone’s gang, who in turn filled the demand of speakeasies throughout Chicago, New York and as far west as San Francisco. Today, using the original recipe of Alphonse Kerkhoff, Templeton Rye remains on the “Good Stuff ” list for all of us to enjoy.

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A BOOK REVIEW by Mike Raven

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Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, also known as the “World Wine Guys,” sent me an advance copy of their new book, Wines of California, to read. I read the forward by Michael Mondavi and preface by Kevin Zraly, as usual, and then the introduction. I think a lot of people skip the introduction, but don’t skip this one. It’s a gleeful look at the history and personalities that formed today’s wine country. The book is fairly long, over 500 pages — I didn’t plan on reading it all at once but I kept getting hung up on story after story, so I’ve read a lot of it. The book has three parts: The Wine Regions of California, In Their Own Words (which is a section of interviews with famous wine makers) and The Recipes With Wine Pairings. In the interview section, Mike and Jeff ask the wine makers all the same questions — it’s so fun to read the different responses from them, including veteran superstars like 90-year-old Mike Grgich, Zelma Long, Heidi Barrett, Michael Mondavi, Michael Trujillo and more. If you are looking for a new book on California wines, I highly suggest this one.

“ I didn’t plan on reading it all at once but I kept getting hung up on story after story. ”

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Here is a sample of one of the many interview questions presented to everyone that I found interesting to compare answers. This is Gina Gallo’s response: Gina Gallo is the granddaughter of California wine pioneer Julio Gallo. She is married to Jean-Charles Boisset, president of the St. Helena-based Boisset Family Estates. She is the winemaker for Gallo Signature Series. Wines of California: What is your winemaking philosophy? Gina Gallo: My approach is to consider the land — the terroir of the vineyard, the grapes that are suited to that site — and convey the story of that specific place in a personal and meaningful way. Given my background, I certainly take a historical perspective, but I also aim to create wines that feel authentic to my own style and true to today’s wine culture. Here is a sample of a winery review: Terlato Family Vineyards 200 Rutherford Hill Road, Rutherford, CA 94573, (888) 241-0259, www.terlatovineyards.com Anthony Terlato is well known and revered in the world of wine. He was one of the first importers to bring Italian Pinot Grigio into the American market; and Santa Margarita, a brand he has been importing for years, is one of the industry leaders in the United States. More recently he and his sons, Bill and John, decided to become winemakers in the Napa Valley, and so they began their search for the right climate conditions and soil in which to make their quality wines. Besides their eponymous Terlato Family Wines, the family makes wine under the Chimney Rock, Sanford, Rutherford Hill and Alderbrook labels. Terlato Family Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Grigio 2010 is light straw-colored, with aromas of white flowers, white peach and citrus blossom. It is delightful on the palate, with flavors of green apples and peach. It has a crisp finish. Terlato Family Vineyards Devils’ Peak Napa Valley 2008 is a Bordeaux-style blend of 50 percent Cabernet Franc, 39 percent Merlot, 6 percent Malbec, and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. It is ruby garnet and has aromas of fresh baked blueberry pie and violets. It is full-bodied with flavors of ripe berries and a long finish. 66

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This is a sample of the wonderful recipes from wine country chefs: BLACK COD BRANDADE Courtesy of Thomas Hill Organic Restaurant, Paso Robles Wine Pairing: Clayhouse Estate Cuvee Blanc Serves 4 1 ½ lb. fresh black cod 5 garlic cloves, peeled 3 sprigs thyme 2 bay leaves 1 ½ qt. whole milk Kosher salt, minced 1 lb. Yukon gold potatoes 1 cup olive oil ½ T. cracked black pepper 1 t. chili flakes Zest and juice of 2 lemons 4 anchovies (optional) To Serve: Toasted crusty bread Capers Chopped parsley Place the black cod into a large saucepan with the garlic, thyme and bay leaves; cover with the milk and season with 2 teaspoons of the salt. Bring to a very gentle simmer and poach the fish about 5 minutes, or until it flakes easily. Reserving the poaching liquid, transfer the fish with two large spatulas to a platter and keep warm, loosely covered. Strain the poaching liquid through a fine sieve into a bowl and return the garlic and milk to the saucepan. Cook the potatoes in the milk with the garlic until just soft. Strain the potatoes and garlic in a colander. In the bowl of a mixer with the paddle attachment, whip the potatoes and garlic with half the olive oil. With the mixer on the lowest setting, gently fold in the fish (be careful not to let the cod disintegrate or turn the potatoes into glue). Continue to gently fold in the rest of the olive oil, black pepper, chili flakes, lemon zest and juice, and anchovies if using. Season with salt to taste. Serve the brandade on lightly garlic-rubbed, toasted crusty bread with a few fried capers and chopped parsley.

Fall 2014 â&#x20AC;˘ itmmag.com

TECHNOLOGY

Wearable Tech order up on the restaurant floor

by Adam Billings

When I was a young boy in the ‘80s, there were several shows that led me to believe wearable technology was just around the corner, not 20 years in the making. There was cer tainly no lack of failed attempts along the way. Do you remember the pager watch, the iPod Nano watch or the Oakley MP3 Sunglasses? Bluetooth headsets would headline at the top of my failed list, but I’m sure many would argue they have been the most successful. It’s a bit early to pass judgment on Google Glass, but the hype has certainly worn off and I don’t see them being worn on the mean streets of Manhattan. However, if starting a revolution of wearable devices is any indication of success, then Google Glass will not soon be forgotten. Wearable technology made inroads a couple years back with the popularity of the fitness band, a pedometer that pairs with your smart phone to provide better insight into fitness goals. The reason they were successful is Bluetooth. In itself, the fitness band does nothing more than track steps over time, but with the connection to the Internet, it opens up a much wider range of features. Possibly the most important of these features is social integration, a way to compete with others who have similar interests.

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Much like all wearable technology, the line of success rests between function and form. By utilizing the brains of the smart phone, wearable devices can maintain their ideal size without having to compromise on features. Fast forward to today and wearable tech is in its infancy, with the top tech companies expected to deliver on the hype. Smart watches seem to be the frontrunners in the wearables department, with the much anticipated iWatch expected to debut later this year. This could mark a pivotal point in our mobile history because it will change the way we interact with our phones and our digital information. Wearable devices are mainly used for the consumption of information, like reading emails, checking texts, answering calls and accessing apps. The ability to create new content is severely hindered by the size of the device and input methods, which are The ability to provide POS intelligence to staff on the reasons I believe floor without the blatant distraction of mobile phones wearable technology will be attractive could be a game changer for the industry. to corporations that can utilize real-time information. Adam Billings is Director of Technology The restaurant industry has spent the past 10 years keeping and Innovation at IMI Agency, a full service mobile phones away from the front-of-house, but that may change marketing agency in the hospitality industry. with the proliferation of wearable devices. The ability to provide Adam is passionate about developing web POS intelligence to staff on the floor without the blatant distraction tools and data solutions for restaurants and of mobile phones could be a game changer for the industry. Managers hotels. He specializes in mobile integration with access to kitchen and bar wait times could anticipate when and enhanced user experience. He also supports C.O.R.E. Gives, a charity that grants additional assistance is necessary before they become major issues. wishes for Children of Restaurant Employees Reservation wait times, table vacancy, rush orders and seated tables who have life threatening and life altering could all be set as alerts directly to the smart watch. This could medical conditions. www.coregives.org solve one of the principal challenges for any restaurant, keeping the manager out of the kitchen and in the dining room with the guests. The potential benefits of this new technology for restaurants are hindered only by the ability to adjust procedures and embrace change. Smart watches and real-time POS data are accessible today. It won’t be long before you’ll notice a restaurant manager swipe their watch on the floor, but the more surprising observation will be the lack of interest from the guest. That is technology at its best. By the way, those ‘80s shows that steered me wrong all of these years — Knight Rider, Star Trek and James Bond — they also happened to be my favorites.

Fall 2014 • itmmag.com

Ultimate Beverage Challenge (UBC) was founded in 2010 by award-winning author/critic/ journalist/educator F. Paul Pacult, publishing executive/editor Sue Woodley, and wine and spirits publishing executive/retail consultant David Talbot. In 2013, editor/journalist Sean Ludford became a partner. For the past five years UBC has operated Ultimate Wine Challenge (UWC) and Ultimate Spirits Challenge (USC), which are acknowledged as being two of the world’s foremost annual international wine evaluation and competition events. As UBC judging chairmen, F. Paul Pacult and Sean Ludford have instituted an innovative and exacting evaluation methodology for the careful appraisal of beverage alcohol products, in order to provide unbiased and meaningful results — findings that help suppliers grow their brands. This painstaking, detail-oriented methodology is accomplished in several ways: by working only with

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the most qualified, world-class judges; serving each entry in carefully-chosen fine crystal glassware at its optimum service temperature; keeping each “flight” to less than eight products to avoid palate fatigue; using multiple round blind-tasting to ensure a level playing field for every entry; providing a calm, clean evaluation environment; and employing the best back-of-house staff to ensure smooth operation. Also for ease of comprehension, UBC utilizes the universally understood 100-point scale. Entries that score 90 points or more in the first round of judging are assigned to a second set of judges for an additional round of blind judging, to determine finalists and trophy winners. After all the results are tabulated, the highest scoring spirits or wines in each category are awarded the highly Top: Judges Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan, MW and Tad Carducci, and UBC founder and Judging Chairman F. Paul Pacult, at Ultimate Spirits Challenge 2014.

coveted “Chairman’s Trophy.” Additional accolades of “Great Value,” which recognizes a favorable price/ quality ratio, and “Tried & True Award,” which recognizes consistent quality over at least three UBC competitions, are also awarded where applicable. In addition, each spirit or wine that receives a score of 85 or higher in either UWC or USC is provided with a tasting note that records its characteristics and uses.

Top: Bottles as far as the eye can see! Entries to Ultimate Spirits Challenge 2014. Bottom, Back row, left to right: UBC partner and Judging CoChairman Sean Ludford, UBC partner David Talbot, Steve Olson, UBC partner Sue Woodley, Dan Nicolaescu, UBC partner and Judging Chairman F. Paul Pacult, Dave Wondrich, Jim Meehan. Front row, left to right: James Conley, Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan, MW, Tad Carducci, Andy Seymour, Jacques Bezuidenhout, Dale DeGroff.

The UBC judges’ pool is another significant asset and reads like a who’s who of this generation’s foremost wine and spirits authorities, authors, journalists, educators, buyers, retailers, and consultants. For UWC, judges are wine experts such as Doug Frost, MS, MW, Jennifer SimonettiBryan, MW, Christy Canterbury, MW, wine editor Tara Q. Thomas, consultant Rick Schofield, CWE, sommelier Jason Hedges, retail buyer Tess Rose, Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW, journalist Patricia Savoie and more. USC’s illustrious, seasoned judges include consultant/educator Steve Olson, author/ columnist/educator David Wondrich, Dale DeGroff, consultant Will Shine, consultant/educator Andy Seymour, buyer Jacques Bezuidenhout, buyer Tad Carducci, author Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan, MW, proprietor/buyer Jim Meehan, and more. UBC’s new evaluation facility and office is located 30 miles north of New York City in Hawthorne, N.Y. This 2,500 square-foot space was specially designed for one purpose: to provide the mandatory pristine, clinical environment in which to evaluate the world’s fermented and distilled beverages using the strictest methodology and analytics. UBC’s commitment to producing unassailable, understandable and practical results is the new platinum standard for the beverage industry. UBC’s motto is “Like no other competition … and doesn’t want to be.” That says it all. For more information, we invite you to visit www.ultimate-beverage.com.

Fall 2014 • itmmag.com

RYE WHISKEY

TOP SEVEN RYE WHISKIES

Ultimate Spirits Challenge 2014

Few spirits categories are hotter in 2014 than Rye Whiskey, which is experiencing doubledigit annual growth. After decades of languishing on retail shelves and back bars, Rye Whiskey has in the last three years re-emerged as a contending spirit due largely to two impactful reasons. First, the craft cocktail movement that started a decade ago in the U.S. has christened Rye Whiskey as one of its foundational darlings because Rye is a pivotal ingredient in many classic cocktails like the Sazerac, Manhattan and Old Fashioned. Second, the call from American consumers for authentic spirits has spawned a legion of fans for distillates that are part of our history. Rye Whiskey was the first major type of Whiskey made in the American colonies before the Revolutionary War, since rye was the primary variety of grain cultivated along the Eastern Seaboard.

Score: 94

Chairman’s Trophy – Score: 95

Bulleit 95 Small Batch Rye Whiskey United States, 45% abv, $27.99, 750 ml

Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation, Great Value Tropical aromas of mango, banana and brown sugar entice the senses. Slightly sweet on the palate and balanced out by toasted oats, overripe banana and tangerine. A delicate, yet lengthy finish ensues.

United States, 50% abv, $39.99, 750 ml

Excellent, Highly Recommended

Lock Stock and Barrel 13 Years Old Rye Whiskey

Excellent, Highly Recommended

Knob Creek Rye Whiskey

United States, 50.65% abv, $119.00, 750 ml

Score: 93

Rittenhouse Bottled-in-Bond Straight Rye Whiskey United States, 50% abv, $21.99, 750 ml

Score: 92

Russell’s Reserve 6 Years Old Rye Whiskey United States, 45.5% abv, $34.99, 750 ml

Score: 92

Sazerac Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey United States, 45% abv, $26.99, 750 ml

Score: 91

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Templeton Rye Whiskey United States, 40% abv, $39.99, 750 ml

Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value Excellent, Highly Recommended Excellent, Highly Recommended, Tried & True Award Excellent, Highly Recommended

SPARKLING WINES

Ultimate Wine Challenge 2014

Everyone loves Champagne, one of France’s most famous and beloved exports. But the fact is, hundreds of excellent wines imbued with effervescence are produced outside the designated region of Champagne. These include Cava from Spain, Prosecco and Moscato d’Asti from Italy, and various sparkling wines from across the United States, Australia, Canada, and, yes, even France. Many of these sparkling wines are priced lower than traditional Champagne and yet provide reliable and sometimes dazzling taste satisfaction. Another pleasing facet of many non-Champagne sparklers is their adaptability with food pairing.

UBC founder and Judging Chairman F. Paul Pacult and Dave Wondrich, conferring at Ultimate Spirits Challenge 2014.

PROSECCO, ITALY

CAVA, SPAIN

TOP SPARKLING WINES

Score: 89

Score: 88

Anna de Codorniu Brut Penedes

Vilarnau Brut Nature Reserva Cava 2011

Spain, 11.5% abv, $14.99 Very Good, Strong Recommendation, Great Value Bright canary yellow color. Brief, tight beaded mousse. Mild yeasty aromas are apparent in the first inhalations; then with further aeration, stone dry quarry scents dominate. Taste profile is dry, lemony, tart, slightly doughy. Aftertaste is lean, crisp, cleansing.

Spain, 11.5% abv, $18.99 Very Good, Strong Recommendation

Score: 93

Score: 92

Astoria Millesimato Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2013

La Gioiosa Treviso Prosecco

Italy, 11.5% abv, $19.99

Italy, 11% abv, $13.99

Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value

Thick snowy cap of froth rests atop a straw yellow color. Vividly fruity, featuring tropical fruits such as pineapple, banana and guava plus a floral scent that bolsters the fruitiness. Round, supple, mouth-filling flavors of fruits are supported by the silky viscosity. Hint of spice in finish.

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USA

TOP SPARKLING WINES

Score: 93

Score: 92

Domaine Carneros by Taittinger Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour Carneros, Napa

Domaine Carneros by Taittinger Brut Cuvée Carneros, Napa 2010

United States, 12% abv, $36.00 Excellent, Highly Recommended, Tried & True

WORLD

Coral pink color is capped by a brief seething mass of silvery effervescence. Lovely aromas of bread dough, baker’s yeast, peach and pomelo make for happy sniffing. Strawberry, watermelon, boysenberry tastes are tart, firm and ripe through the classy finish. One to be served as an apéritif and main course companion.

United States, 12.1% abv, $32.00 Excellent, Highly Recommended, Tried & True

Score: 93

Score: 92

Rotari Talento Rosé Trento NV

Helfrich Cremant d’Alsace

Italy, 12.5% abv, $14.99 Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value Salmon/coral color is capped by a strong, silvery mousse. Smells slightly of sulphur, yeast, sour cherry. Flavor profile is vividly tart, berry-like (strawberry), citrusy, spicy. Element of passion fruit emerges in the finish.

France, 12.1% abv, $21.99 Excellent, Highly Recommended

The judges for Ultimate Wine Challenge 2014 – Back row, left to right: consultant Rick Judge Doug Frost, MW, MS Schofield, CWE; UBC partner and Co-Chairman Sean Ludford; sommelier Jason Hedges; UBC partner and Judging Chairman F. Paul Pacult; writer and editor Tara Q. Thomas; writer, buyer and educator Doug Frost, MS, MW; UBC partner David Talbot. Front row, left to right: writer Patricia Savoie, buyer Tess Rose, UBC partner Sue Woodley. 74

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Unique Cocktail Inspiration

FROM AROUND THE WORLD

InterContinental® Hotels Coca-Cola® Riedel® Glassware InterContinental® Hotels, Coca-Cola® and Riedel® Glassware have united with a message of hope, happiness and optimism. Inspired by themes from the “Its Beautiful” campaign by Coca-Cola in the US, and “Reasons to Believe” campaign in the UK, InterContinental Hotels crafted a series of globallyinspired cocktails that would celebrate the best of humanity, in both their name and flavor. They have tied words such as hope, wonderful, love and proud to each drink, using the language of the country associated with the ingredients in the drink.

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“This is an exciting opportunity for us to take three global icons — InterContinental, Coca-Cola and Riedel Glassware — and craft a promotion that highlights the strengths of each,” said Bob Midyette, corporate manager – beverage, IHG. “Coke is the familiar, Coke is the constant and it shines through. Showcasing the InterContinental Brands’ global reach, each cocktail incorporates flavors and ingredients familiar to the global community. With the help of Riedel’s optimally shaped glass, we have blended flavors from a diverse world and indeed, made something … beautiful.”

Riedel is recognized worldwide for designing and producing the highest quality glasses for enjoying wine and spirits. Georg Riedel, 10th generation owner of the Austrian company, worked closely with key Coca-Cola tasting experts (including those with intimate knowledge of the secret formula) to determine the perfect shape to bring out and showcase the distinctive spices, aroma and taste of Coca-Cola. Machine-blown with lead-free crystal, the stemless “O” design draws inspiration from the iconic Coca-Cola contour bottle and results in a unique glass providing a taste like no other.

LOVE / PYARA AWESOME / IMPRESSIONNANT FRANCE

COURVOISIER

Basil /Lime Juice topped with Herbs de Provence Foam & Coca-Cola

INDIA

KN O B C RE E K BO U RBO N

Saffron-Infused Orgeat Garam Masala/Greek Yogurt topped with Coca-Cola

BRILLIANT ENGLAND

EARL GREY INFUSED BEAFEATER GIN

Pimms No. 1 Cup/Lemon Juice/Fresh Cucumber Simple Syrup and Coca-Cola

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Out with the Old, In with the Classics THE ALL NEW LOBBY BAR IS NOW OPEN AT

Caesars Palace

Just for Mary 78

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Tony Abou-Ganim with his favorite cocktail, the Negroni.

Cleopatraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Smile

The newest addition to the Caesars Palace Jack Daniel’s almost every night, including Frank’s bar and lounge scene, Lobby Bar, is a premiere famous performance at Caesars Palace in 1982. The cocktail destination. Formerly the Galleria Bar, Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select pays homage to that Lobby Bar features expansive lounge seating great friendship. Bottled at 90 proof and made using enwrapping the front-desk reception area to the the unique Sinatra barrels, Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Palace Court baccarat tables, as well as a highly Select pays tribute to Jack’s biggest fan, Mr. Frank curated beverage menu with classic concoctions and Sinatra. These Sinatra barrels have deep grooves exclusive creations. on the inside of the staves, exposing the Whiskey to The extensive cocktail menu designed extra layers of oak. This imparts a rich amber color, by The Modern Mixologist, Tony Abou-Ganim, bold character and a pleasant smokiness, followed offers an eclectic selection of classic libations and by an incredibly smooth vanilla finish. contemporary specialties. Bringing with him more than 20 years of experience, Tony collaborated on the menu development as well as assisted with training bar staff, stressing both quality ingredients and proper technique. Developing eight specialty drinks on the menu, Tony was able to showcase his immaculate talent for mixology with creations such as the Cleopatra’s Smile, Just for Mary, Monkey Shine, Caesar Ritz, The Wizard and his most famous of them all, the Cable Car. For the refined Whiskey palate, Tony created two specialties on the menu exclusive to Caesars Palace, the Tennessee Highball #2 and The Chairman’s Manhattan, Tony Abou-Ganim serving up a Cleopatra’s smile. both made with Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select Whiskey. With more than 100 plush seats, Lobby The Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select is the Bar’s warm colors bring an intimate feel to the main component of Tony’s two exclusive Whiskey space. A vibrant chandelier drapes the marble bar cocktails on the menu, priced at $50. The Tennessee tops with light, illuminating the gold panels and Highball #2 features the unique barrel Whiskey, pillars showcasing iconic Caesars photography. The freshly squeezed lemon juice, Fee Brothers orange Forbes-rated bar also features bar-top gaming and a bitters, Fever-Tree ginger beer and gomme syrup. selection of snacks. The Chairman’s Manhattan includes the Jack Paying homage to the Frank Sinatra days Daniel’s Sinatra Select along with Carpano Antica at Caesars Palace, Jack Daniel’s developed unique Formula Vermouth, Dale DeGroff’s pimento bitters Sinatra barrels for the Whiskey lover. Frank Sinatra and a garnishment of cherries. was always clear about how he liked his drink – Lobby Bar joins Apostrophe Bar as the faces Jack Daniel’s, three rocks, two fingers and a splash of Caesars Palace’s revitalized beverage program. of water. Frank Sinatra appeared on stage with

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A DV E RTO R I A L

Sake Imports

BREW NEW LIFE

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A DV E RTO R I A L

Twenty-five years ago the value of impor ted Sake into the U.S. was only about $6 million. By 2000, the value had grown to $10 million, and by 2011 it was approximately $41 million — a quadruple increase in 10 years!

Impact Databank reports that Sake consumption is steadily rising to record levels in the U.S., reaching 2.5 million cases in 2011. Most is brewed in America, with imported Sake representing just 19 percent of overall sales. However, the U.S. is now the biggest export market for Sake shipped from Japan, accounting for about 25 percent of their shipments. Approximately 185 varieties of Sake are available in the North America market, including several grades and types. It is mainly drunk with meals and should be served at a temperature of around 53 degrees F. While Sake goes well with Japanese food, it’s versatile enough to be matched with a myriad of other dishes. Its quality depends on several factors: the water used in manufacturing, which should be very soft; the variety of rice (because each has its own distinctive character) and the extent to which it’s been polished; the yeast; and, of course, the maker’s skill. The alcohol content generally ranges from 15 percent to 17 percent.

A Beautiful Relationship Sidney Frank Importing Company, Inc. first began importing Gekkeikan Sake in 1972, the year the company opened its doors with just four employees. Today, the privately held, family-owned importing company staffs more than 199 full-time employees and remains the exclusive importer in the United States for the world’s most popular Sake, Gekkeikan.

Drinks pictured, left to right: Blushing Geisha, Sake Berry Punch, Pineapple Saketini

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A DV E RTO R I A L

Founded in 1637 by the Okura family, The House of Gekkeikan has been making Sake for almost 400 years and has 14 generations of Sake brewing experience, making it one of the oldest family-operated businesses in the world and one of the most respected names in Sake. Gekkeikan means “Crown of Laurel,” a testament to the company’s commitment to excellence. “The House of Gekkeikan’s portfolio is extensive and comprised of an array of 15 top quality Sakes, plum wines and Shochus at various price points that appeal to Sake novices and Sake aficionados alike,” explained Yoshi Yumoto, vice president and Gekkeikan national sales manager at Sidney Frank Importing Company, Inc. Over the centuries, Gekkeikan has refined its Sake brewing techniques to combine culture and tradition with innovation, resulting in a comprehensive line of Sakes that are ideal for food pairings and adaptable for various consumption methods. Gekkeikan Japan is located in the prestigious Fushimi region within the Kyoto Prefecture. Fushimi, meaning “hidden water,” refers to the pristine waters of the region, renowned for their softness and low mineral content, which produce smooth, wellrounded refined Sakes that are lightly fragrant and extremely versatile.

Drinks pictured, left to right: Kyoto Cooler, Sparkling Ume, Sake Berry Punch Sangria Pitcher These Gekkeikan cocktails and more can be found on Gekkeikan-sake.com

For additional information on the Gekkeikan portfolio, please reach out to: TED MCALEER, director of national accounts tmcaleer@sidneyfrank.com CHRISTIE LAWLER, national account manager clawler@sidneyfrank.com

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BIZ MIX

Tales of the Cocktail® is the world’s premier cocktail festival, bringing together the international spirits community for five days of what’s now, what’s new and what’s next in bartending. 2014, their 12th year, was as brilliant as ever, offering a spirited schedule of supplier parties, seminars, dinners, competitions, tasting rooms and new product launches.

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BIZ MIX

A. L et the festivities begin! TOC is pronounced open outside of the Hotel Monteleone. B. T he Spirited Awards dinner, celebrating the best in the business for the year. C. D eep Eddy brought a nostalgic feel to the tasting room scene. D. Franรงois Thibault entertains his guests at a brunch, introducing his new Grey Goose VX. E. A nn and Paul Tuennerman (Mr. and Mrs. Cocktail and Founders of Tales of the Cocktail) enjoying the festivities at the Absolut Welcome Reception. F. Don Julio Tequila from Diageo brought the party to the famous bar, Cure. G. The march to the awards.

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BIZ MIX 88

William Grant & Sons threw one of their usual (or unusual, I should say) quirky parties.This year’s party theme was a nod to writer and premier party giver, Charles H. Baker, Jr. As author of The Gentleman’s Companion and The South American Gentleman’s Companion, he traveled around the world “in search of good things to eat and drink.”

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BIZ MIX

Bacardi Brands set the mood Thursday night with their “Awaken Your Spirits with Bacardi Brands” party at Generations Hall.

BIZ MIX 90

The Friday night festivities were all about the Diageo “House Party.”

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BIZ MIX

Absolut throws a bash on Wednesday night at Mardi Gras World with all the zaniness of a carnival.

BIZ MIX

Hospitality Executive Exchange East (HEE East) hosted more than 80 food and beverage professionals at the fabulous Loews Don CeSar Hotel in St. Pete Beach, Florida, June 24-27, 2014. The HEE program continues to gain momentum in the marketplace as one of the most exclusive and focused vehicles for exchanging ideas, insights and information. HEE East is a unique blend of one-on-one appointments, networking and interactive roundtables. HEE is held on both the east and west coasts, providing a great opportunity for participants to focus on one thing – conversations. The next scheduled event is January 2015. If you are interested in additional information as an invited operator or a select supplier, please contact Jen Robinson at jen@thepineapplegroup.net.

A. J ason Berry and Brook Vandecar, Rosa Mexicano; and John Niekrash, Proximo Spirits. B. R amsey Pimentel, Don Q Rum; and Mitchie Kanda, Houlihan’s. C. The group with their CORE bears. D. K athy Casey, Kathy Casey Liquid Kitchen; and Mark Corcoran, Stoli Group USA.

E. M ichael “Bumby” Bombard, Straight Up Solutions; Dave Hatcher, SodexoMAGIC; and Philip Raimondo, Beam Suntory.

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A. E verybody having a good time at the Columbia Winery in Woodinville, Wash. for a taste of the Pacific Northwest.

Since 1977, SWE’s annual conference has provided a unique venue for educators, students and enthusiasts to gather and learn more about the world of wine and spirits. This year’s conference was in Seattle in August and included an evening reception featuring Washington State wine at Chihuly Garden and Glass, a “Taste of the Loire” experience, networking happy hours, and a Friday evening gala. The conference also featured over 50 sessions with dynamic speakers from the wine and spirits industry.

BIZ MIX

B. B arry Wiss, CWE, CSS, vice president of trade relations, Trinchero Family Estates, vice president and member of Board of Examiners, Society of Wine Educators, at the Chihuly Garden and Glass, a “Taste of the Loire” experience. C. D avid Strada with the New Zealand Wine Growers, shaking hands with newly elected president, Ed Korry, CHE, CSS, CWE.

D. T wo seminar attendees searching for nuances in the wines. E. Seems like a split decision … F. P aul Wagner, founder and president of Balzac Communications and Marketing, doing a seminar on one of his favorite subjects, Chianti.

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RE - M I X

WHISKEY 101 by Edward M. Korry CHE, CSS CWE

Whisk(e)y, from the ancient Gaelic word uisgebaugh (pronounced whees-geh-baw) meaning “water of life,” was probably first made in Eire in the 11th century. Whisky without the “e” represents the spirit made in Scotland and Canada, while whiskey with the “e” reflects the spirit made in the U.S. and Ireland. Other significant producing countries include Japan and India. For our general purposes, we will refer to it as whisky.

Whisky is the only spirit to be defined as having to be made exclusively from grain. Internationally it is defined as a spirit obtained from a fermented mash of grain, distilled at less than 190 proof (95% abv), stored in oak barrels, and bottled at no less than 80 proof (40% abv.) The five primary grains that form the basis of whisky are: barley, wheat, rye, oats, and corn. The choice of cereals is largely determined by the region where the cereal is most successfully grown and is one of the most significant determinants in the taste profile of whisky. The other significant determinants are: the source of water (which is far less relevant today given reverse osmosis technology and chemical additives that can duplicate any source), the type of 94

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still used, the number of distillations, the maturation method (aging in different types of barrels and length of aging), and the region in which it matures. Barley needs to undergo the malting process for converting starches into fermentable sugars. During germination, the process is halted by kilning the graining. In Scotland, this is frequently done by combusting peat, which is compacted, decomposed vegetation traditionally used as a source of fire and heat. One popular misconception is that all Scotch whisky has peat smokiness, though it is true that many of its famous single malt brands reflect that distinctiveness. One of the characteristic markers of the use of some unmalted barley is an almost leathery note on the palate.

Lowlands Scotches are represented by brands such as Glenkinchie and Auchentoshan, which is one of three surviving distilleries that also practices triple distillation. Speyside has the largest number of distilleries by the source of its water, the River Spey, and is represented by such famous distilleries as Aberlour, Balvenie, Glenfiddich, The Glenlivet, and The Macallan. The Highlands are represented by such famous brands as Dalmore, Dalwhinnie, Glenmorangie, and Oban. Campbeltown, once home to over 30 distilleries, now only has three operating and is represented by Springbank. The “peatiest” or smokiest malts are those from Islay, where only eight distilleries are now operating. These malts tend to have an almost briny, sealike aroma; some examples are Ardberg, Bowmore, Lagavulin, or Laphroaig. Most neophytes to the whisky world will find it more difficult to appreciate this style if they are unfamiliar with Scotch. In terms of taste profiles, it is risky to categorically state that all brands from one area have a certain taste profile, other than the smokiness of Islay, as they can be very distinctive. This is further complicated by the fact that within each brand, there are huge variations depending on aging lengths. That being said, Scotch whisky can be categorized as being fruity or floral on the nose; light or rich on the palate; or, smoky or delicate on the palate. For example, Glenfiddich 12-year old and Glenlivet 12-year old are light and delicate compared to Lagavulin 16-year old or Highland Park 12-year old, both of which are smoky and rich. Ardberg and Laphroaig are light but very smoky, in comparison. For those who are unfamiliar with Scotch, I would suggest starting with a blended whisky and going through the process of discovering which style you prefer. You will find that enjoying it neat, and cutting the scotch with no more than 50% bottled water, will allow you to better discern the aromas and understand the subtle differences that exist. Given the wide variations of style, it will take a lifetime of discovery before you can consider yourself a true connoisseur. As the old Scottish toast goes: “Freedom and whisky gang thegither-Tak aff your dram.”

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RE-MIX

Scotland has the greatest number of operating distilleries, totaling more than 180. Scotch whisky is basically categorized into malt and blended whiskies, which are malt whiskies that are blended with other cereal distillates that are lighter and made in continuous stills. Blended whiskies such as Johnnie Walker, Dewar’s, J&B, and Cutty Sark represent 90% of all Scotches produced. There are 5 primary regions of Scotland reflecting certain distinctiveness: The Highlands, The Lowlands, Speyside, Campbeltown, and Islay. Single malts are double distilled and all must be aged at least 3 years, though they commonly have a minimum of 7 to 8 years of aging, and must be released at bottle strength of 40 to 46% alcohol by volume. Most distilleries add water not only prior to bottling but prior to casking, so that the local tap water is less in use at warehouses prior to bottling. The exceptionally good distilleries release very limited cask strength whiskies of up to 6o% abv. An age statement requires reflecting the youngest whisky in the blend. Single malts must be made from malted barley from a single distillery, and made by the batch or pot still method. The climate is such that loss through evaporation –the angels’ share–is between .05% and 2% annually, versus 3% to 5% for bourbon. Most are aged in used American oak barrels that have already seen bourbon whiskey aging. These may be supplemented by barrels that have been used for aging white or red wines, sherry, port, or Madeira; or for cognac and calvados production. One question that many consumers will ask a bartender or retailer is, what is a vatted malt? It is a whisky that is a blend made at more than a single distillery. A single malt is made not only of malted barley but also from a single distillery. Another question in consumer minds is why some whiskies become cloudy when in contact with ice or water, versus others that don’t. The reason is the ones that become hazy have not undergone a chill filtering process, which removes certain esters, and therefore flavor, but provides more aesthetic appeal. This is one reason many Scotch connoisseurs ask for a side of water and have their scotch neat.

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Bubbles and Rye

Trinchero Family Estates Presents:

Bubbles &

Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS

by Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS

Bubbles and Rye

Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS 4

12 15

10 13

17 15

16 17

19 20

18 19 20

1 4 5 7 9 12 13 15 18 19 20 21

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Across 1 French sparkler not made in Across Champagne (but same French sparkler not made in 1 method) Champagne (but same 2 4 French for light sparkler method) 3 5 Number years aging French for lightof sparkler 6 Number of years 8 (sur-lie) foraging vintage (sur-lie) for vintage 10 Champagne Champagne 11 7 thing Last thing to Last added added to Champagne before corking 13 Champagne before corking 9 orginal The orginal for a The bitters bitters used for used a Sazerac Rye cocktail 14 Sazerac Rye cocktail Moscato Sparkler of Piedmont 12 Moscato Sparkler of Piedmont Metodo Classico of Lombardy 13 Metodo Classico of Lombardy 16 Spanish sparkler (Traditional 17 15 Spanish sparkler (Traditional Method) Method) Minimum percent in order call a whiskey "Rye" percent in order call 18 Minimum Number of years "Rye" aging in cask a whiskey to call it "Straight Whiskey" 19 Number of years aging in cask One of the orginal Rye to call it "Straight Whiskey" Whiskies - Old.... 20 cocktail One of made the orginal Rye Rye with Whiskies - Old.... Absinte and bitters 21 Rye cocktail made with Absinte and bitters

Down 1 Champagne's "Hills of White" Down 2 Name for a German Sparkler Champagne's "Hills of White" 3 RegionSparkler for high quailty Cava Name for a German 6 The sweetest Region for high quailty Cava Champagne 8 The Prosecco grape The sweetest Champagne The Prosecco grape 10 Red Sparkler of Emila-Romagna Red Sparkler of Emila-Romagna 11 Red grape of Champagne (also Red grape of Champagne (also Burgundy) Burgundy) Style of sparkler of Moscato Style of 13 sparkler of Moscato d'Asti d'Asti French for "Bulk Method" 14the French for theof "Bulk Method" of making sparkling winesparkling wine making a 3 liter 16 bottle Champagne a of 3 liter bottle of Champagne French for "riddling rack" 17 French for "riddling rack" 21

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