in the Mix
Vol. 49 Fall 2016
I N N OVAT E
I N D U L G E
E X P L O R E
Vol. 49 Fall
Wolfgang Lindlbauer 2016
Global Discipline Leader, Marriott International, Retired
w w w.intheM ixMagazine.com
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PUBLISHER’S LETTER
What’s on a label? Label changes may be coming, through the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), which are an attempt to wash all those confusing terms away and replace them with more defining ones. The TTB is pushing for new directives to govern adult beverage labels for all segments of the business. The industry has changed substantially in just the past 10 years alone. The spirits industry has evolved but the labeling has remained static. There are several codes up for discussion and potential change, all of which address labeling and advertising of wine, spirits and malt beverages. Matt Hofmann, an ACSA board of directors member, states, “The requirements for spirit labeling, acceptable ingredients in particular spirits, advertising, the process of submitting labels for approval to the TTB and how they are approved or not, and much more, are all included within the codes that will soon open for possible revision.” Some of the issues to be reviewed cover everything from “distilled by” and the whole “craft” category, to what it means to be “handmade” or “handcrafted.” American single malts and barrel-aged gin are also being looked at. All of these are up for discussion. Of concern also are other items such as: 1) Tax rates. Distilled spirits are taxed at substantially higher rates than beer and wine, so naturally they are looking for equity; 2) Label approval speed and process. There is a large backlog, which is a big problem; and, finally 3) Compliance. The wine industry is pushing for tougher federal TTB labeling standards on a bottle of wine to address claims of vintage dates, varietals and geographic regions where the grapes are grown. And just recently, several of the major brewers have agreed to list calorie counts and other nutritional information on the beers they produce. “New categorization, improved labeling processes, better tax rates for distilleries, and an end to fancy marketing jargon – these are all great, in theory. But if there’s a lack of compliance and missteps either go unpunished, or punished in a minor way comparative to benefits already reaped, then all the regulation in the world don’t mean a thing,” according to Matt Hofmann. The TTB is opening up an online forum for anyone to propose amendments on a huge swath of presently outdated rules, from adding new regulated spirits categories, to clearing up misleading labeling language. So, what’s on a label is complicated and requires some thoughtful consideration to get it right.
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“ To be persuasive we must be believable; To be believable we must be credible; To be credible we must be truthful.” Edward R. Murrow
California Table Wine, ©2016 William Hill Estate, Napa, CA. All Rights Reserved. 16-1642207- WHE-129-571989 Fall 2016 • itmmag.com
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INNOVATE 42.
Take 5 Interview with Roust USA
54. Interview with Jennifer Glanville, Samuel Adams Brewer and Director of Brewery Programs 56. Legal Journal – A Thousand Battles: How the Recent Tide in Label Litigation is Shifting in Favor of Manufacturers by Oren Bitan of Buchalter Nemer
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58. Cover Story – An Interview with Wolfgang Lindlbauer, Global Discipline Leader, Retired, Marriott International
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98.
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Crossword Puzzle by Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS, of Trinchero Family Estates
in the Mix Magazine
NEW 100% GLUTEN FREE. 100% THE VODKA. Introducing THE Vodka, now also available in gluten free. Harvested from our fertile corn and buckwheat fields, the result is a gluten-free vodka, crafted from our fields to your glass.
92 POINTS Beverage Testing Institute Rating
SAVOR STOLI® RESPONSIBLY. Stolichnaya® Gluten Free Premium Vodka. 40% Alc/Vol. (80 proof). Distilled from Corn and Buckwheat. Stoli Group USA, LLC, New York, NY. ©2016. All rights reserved. ® - registered trademarks of ZHS IP Americas Sàrl or Spirits International B.V.
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INDULGE 26. What It Means To Be Family For Life: Celebrating 50 Years of Robert Mondavi Winery by Rebecca Wilkie, Cuvée Marketing 32.
Innovating the Autumn Bar by Maggie Hoffman
44. Fortified Wines – What They Are and Why They Are Trending by Renee Lee 46.
Volcanic Island Wines by Edward M. Korry, CHE, CSS, CWE
90. Ultimate Beverage Challenge – top picks in the Ciders of North America category 96.
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Wine Quiz by The Society of Wine Educators
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EXPLORE 18. Team Negroni Rides for Charity During 2016 Negroni Week by Tony Abou-Ganim and Moniek Pullen 76. Making the Rounds With Helen Benefield Billings – Raising A Glass to The Sweet Life 84. Biz Mix – BAR 16 at the National Restaurant Show 94.
Society of Wine Educators 2016 Conference recap
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Naturally Inspiring
Journey to East Asia Experience the uniquely tangy-sweet flavor of yuzu, a cross between grapefruit, lemon and sour mandarin with subtle floral notes. Monin Yuzu Fruit PurĂŠe adds bright flavor to refreshing cocktails, lemonades, iced teas and more.
Visit www.monin.com for more information and hundreds of recipes. Fall 2016 • itmmag.com
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Enjoy SanpellegrinoÂŽ Sparkling Fruit Beverages and treat yourself to the refreshing taste of sun-ripened citruses. An Italian tradition since 1932, these delicious sparkling beverages offer a distinct taste, style and quality. Try all seven flavors chilled, served over ice or in your favorite cocktail.
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The Art of Mixology Sparkling Cocktails with a Dash of Deliziosa
Runway Gimlet
Riviera Fizz
1 oz. Orange Vodka 2 oz. Aranciata Rossa 3 oz. Prosecco
1 1⁄2 oz. Aperol 2 oz. Orange Juice 6 oz. Aranciata
Serve in a rocks glass with a blood orange round
Serve on the rocks in a highball glass with half of an orange round
Capitano Cooler
Classic Italian 75
1 oz. White Rum 1 ⁄2 oz. Jamaican Rum 2 oz. Pompelmo 3 ⁄4 oz. Lime Juice 3 ⁄4 oz. Honey
3 ⁄4 oz. Gin 3 oz. Limonata 3 oz. Prosecco
Serve on the rocks with half of a grapefruit wheel and/or a lime wedge
Serve in a flute or coupe glass with a twist of lemon peel
Find more cocktail recipes at sanpellegrinofruitbeverages.com. For more information, contact Nicole Thurman at Nicole.Thurman@waters.nestle.com ©2016 Nestlé Waters North America Inc.
NWNA14902_4
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EDITOR’S LETTER
IMI SPOTLIGHT
JASON PATRICK LAWRENCE Director of Account Management, Marriott International Jason joined IMI Agency from the position of Director, Sales and Marketing at the award-winning Irish pub chain, Ri Ra. Since last fall, he has been the Director of Account Management, Marriott International for IMI and is positioned within the Marriott International Global Operations Support Team at Marriott headquarters in Jason and his wife, Jennifer Bethesda, Maryland.
Mike Raven, Managing Editor, in the Mix Media
Our autumn issue celebrates another icon of the business, Wolfgang Lindlbauer, the retired Global Discipline Leader of Marriott International. Our interview gives you an in-depth view of his accomplishments in the hotel hospitality industry and the impact he has made, not only in the hospitality business but also in the supplier world, as well. We welcome a new writer this issue, Maggie Hoffman. Maggie is the former Managing Editor at the James Beard Award-winning website, Serious Eats, and has written for the websites of Saveur, Esquire, the San Francisco Chronicle and others. Maggie has created an outstanding visual and informational feature for us, Innovating the Autumn Bar. I hope you enjoy it. Mike Raven Managing Editor, in the Mix Media
What are your responsibilities with IMI? Leading and supporting beverage initiatives and programming in the world’s largest hotel company – Marriott International. What do you like best about working with Marriott International? The people. From the first day I walked through the doors at Marriott headquarters, it was apparent that the organization’s focus is their people, and this is clearly reflected in the magnificent culture we’re immersed in. Here’s a little fun fact for you: Marriott International’s Quarter Century Club (associates with 25 years or more at Marriott) has over 42,000 members. Where do you live and what do you like best about it? Baltimore. It has an incredible food scene, intimate neighborhoods with vast history, and just enough Southern hospitality to always make you feel at home. What is your favorite travel destination? Eagle Beach, Aruba. We visit for two weeks every year in October/November, and it is the very definition of rest and relaxation. Our daughter’s first visit will be this October and we couldn’t be more excited. What hobbies do you enjoy? Your standard list of outdoorsy activities such as running, cycling, snowboarding, fishing and golf, and I try to go kite surfing as much as possible in Aruba. I also enjoy home improvement and real estate investing. What is your favorite adult beverage? Bourbon Old Fashioned – creativity encouraged. What is your favorite food? Pizza from a small place in Hagerstown, Maryland called Rocky’s. My favorite food to prepare is barbecue. I’m really into smoking food right now.
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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Media Print
Tony Abou-Ganim, known as “The Modern Mixologist,” is an accomplished bar chef, speaker and consultant who has created several original cocktail recipes, including the Cable Car, Sunsplash and Starlight. He has recently authored his second book, Vodka Distilled (Agate Surrey, publisher).
Edward Korry is an Associate Professor and Chair of the Beverage & Dining Service Department in the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University, Providence, R.I. Edward carries many certifications as well as being President of the Society of Wine Educators and an executive board member of the U.S. Bartenders’ Guild Master Accreditation program.
Maggie Hoffman is the cocktail columnist and former Managing Editor at the James Beard Awardwinning website, Serious Eats. She writes about drinking and eating for the websites of Saveur and Esquire, the San Francisco Chronicle and others. Her go-to cocktail order is “something sour and bitter.”
Digital
Web
Video
PUBLISHER Don Billings EDITORIAL AND DESIGN Editor – Michael Raven Designed by – Connie Guess, ThinkWorks Creative Copy Editor & Proofreader – Christine Neal Associate Editor – Celeste Dinos Associate Editor – Helen Benefield Billings ADVERTISING SALES mike@itmmag.com EDITORIAL AND BUSINESS OFFICE 1196 Buckhead Crossing, Woodstock, GA 30189 PHONE 770-928-1980 | FAX 770-517- 8849 EMAIL mike@itmmag.com WEB ITMmag.com
in the Mix magazine is published quarterly by IMI Agency. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
in the Mix is exclusively operated and owned by Incentive Marketing Inc. SUBMISSIONS
Adam Billings is the Director of Creative, Technology and Innovation at iMi Agency, a full-service marketing agency in the hospitality industry. He manages adult beverage programs for chain restaurant, hotel and concession clients.
Incentive Marketing Inc. assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs.Visit our website, intheMixMagazine.com, for guidelines on how to submit inquiries or contact our editors.
Hospitality and travel writer, Helen Benefield Billings has been with in the Mix since its inception in 2004. Helen lives in her native childhood home of Sea Island, Ga. when not traveling or attending industry functions with her husband, Don.
Larry McGinn, Partner Celeste Dinos, Partner Don Billings, Founding Partner
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www.FrancisFordCoppolaWinery.com
All trademarks used herein are exclusive property of The Family Coppola and/or its affiliates. Š2016 Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville, Sonoma County, California
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TEAM NEGRONI RIDES FOR CHARITY
during 2016 Negroni Week By Tony Abou-Ganim and Moniek Pullen
Team Negroni approaching the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.
Helen David Relief Fund It all started in 2010 on my 50th birthday. Rather than gifts, I asked for donations in memory of my cousin Helen David. From there, the charity grew and is now a program of the USBG National Charity Foundation and a U.S. registered 501(c)3 nonprofit. The Helen David Relief Fund (HDRF) honors the memory of the beloved Port Huron, Michigan bar owner and community leader. Beating breast cancer twice during her life, Helen David is an inspiration to those living with the disease. Tony Abou-Ganim at the Red Rock Overlook.
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In her name, the HDRF assists women in the bar industry who are taking on breast cancer with the dignity and courage Helen displayed through her battle, and exemplified throughout her life as a pioneer business owner in the bar industry. As a two-time breast cancer survivor, in a time when chances to survive were slim, Helen was always an advocate for the cause and wanted to give back to the community. She ran the Brass Rail bar in Port Huron for 69½ years. She opened in 1937 together with her mother, which in itself is an amazing accomplishment – the bar scene in that era was pretty much a world for men.
Team Negroni In 2014, the idea came up to form a cycling team to raise money for the Helen David Relief Fund and, if anybody knows me, you would know my favorite drink is a Negroni. As a recreational cyclist, I wanted to improve my cycling and get in a better shape. Working in the bar industry is a strenuous profession; we work long hours on a crazy schedule. We don’t always get our break or eat as healthy as we should. With the cycling team, I look to encourage bartenders to incorporate a healthier lifestyle through physical exercise. Cycling is a great way to get outside, get in some exercise and clear your head. We’ve had one member on our team who began riding with the start of the New Year and could barely finish a four-mile bike ride around the neighborhood. But by the Orlando Negroni Week bike ride, she completed the 40-mile ride and she felt stronger, fitter and overall happier about herself. One rider in Las Vegas lost at least 20 pounds during his training for the ride and has incorporated cycling as a part of his routine. It’s a well-known fact that the best thing anyone can do for themselves is to be philanthropic and help the less fortunate. By becoming a Team Negroni member, you will accomplish all of these goals. We work in the greatest profession on earth and it’s always important to remember how lucky we are. We need to do our part to give back to our community and those less fortunate. You never know when the shoe might be on the other foot.
As mentioned before, my favorite cocktail is the Negroni – that’s a well-known fact. I discovered the drink in 1991 and as the Italians say, you need to try it three times before you start to appreciate the drink. That was definitely the case for me – it wasn’t love at first sip. But when you do fall in love, it’s a love affair for a lifetime. At that time, the drink was virtually unknown to most bartenders. Fortunately, today it’s embraced as the bartender’s handshake and in turn has been shared with patrons around the country.
About Negroni Week In 2013, Imbibe magazine launched Negroni Week, a celebration of one of the world’s great cocktails and an effort to raise money for charitable causes. Where many drinks have a specific one-day of recognition, the celebration for the Negroni is the first full week of June. Now as the celebration marks its fourth year, Imbibe has teamed up with Campari to present Negroni Week 2016 on a global scale. From June 6th to 12th, bars around the world mixed Negronis and donated a portion of the proceeds from each one sold to a charity of their choice. Thousands of bars participated, bringing the global cocktail community together through this amazing fundraiser.
From June 6th to 12th, bars around the world mixed Negronis and donated a portion of the proceeds from each one sold to a charity of their choice. Thousands of bars participated, bringing the global cocktail community together through this amazing fundraiser.
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Team Negroni in the Windy City.
Negroni Week Bike Rides With Negroni Week being celebrated the beginning of June, this year we decided that it seemed like a natural fit for our Team Negroni cycling team to ride during the designated week. And thankfully, we got full support from Campari. Campari national headquarters are located in San Francisco, which is a place where I spent many of my formative years behind the bar. The beauty of San Francisco is very conducive to bicycling and this made it an obvious choice for the first ride in 2015 in which Gary Ruvo, Chairman of Campari America, also rode with the team. This year’s team of 14 members included local bartenders as well as David Nepove (who also rode in 2015), USBG National President, and Campari employees Jean Jacques Dubau, Managing Director North America, Campari America, and Richard Black, Vice President Marketing, Campari America.
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Team Negroni’s Sheila Rosario, Director of National Programs, United States Bartenders’ Guild.
San Francisco The kickoff of the second edition of the Negroni Week bike rides took place in San Francisco. The team took on the same route as 2015 and all riders completed the ride. After party Negronis were enjoyed at Il Fornaio.
Chicago The second stop of the Team Negroni tour was Chicago. The team raised a total of $2,515 and a great foundation was set to let this ride grow during the upcoming years. The beautiful ride hit all aspects Chicago has to offer – it took the riders past some famous architecture, along the Lake Front Trail and through parts of the city. Longman & Eagle opened its doors for the after party, and many Negronis and appetizers fueled up the tired bodies and souls.
Orlando The third stop on the tour brought the team to Orlando, where my publicist Ken Langdon set out a beautiful route along the West Orange Trail. Thankfully, it was a flat course with few traffic lights, just what our tired legs needed. The team enjoyed their well-deserved drinks at Lilly’s on the Lake, where they could soak their feet in the lake with a Negroni in hand – perfect ending to an amazing day.
Post-ride Negronis at Lilly’s on the Lake in Orlando.
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Las Vegas The last stop brought us back to our hometown in Las Vegas and we could not have asked for a more spectacular ending to this week. The team crushed the fundraising with pulling together nearly $20,000! Top fundraiser Wendy Hodges got together the incredible amount of $2,589! Unfortunately, due to two flats, she couldn’t finish by bike but walked her way through the desert heat to the finish, keeping in mind that this was nothing compared to what the women fighting breast cancer go through. Many USBG members, friends and family came together at Echo & Rig to raise a glass of Negroni one last time and celebrate the success of this team.
Team Negroni at the Red Rock Overlook, Las Vegas. Best fundraising team!
We will continue to ride and expand the team during October, which is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and add more cities in 2017. Keep an eye on the Helen David Relief Fund Facebook page for more information on the upcoming rides. If you wish to join Team Negroni or partner up to host a ride in your city, contact Moniek Pullen. Moniek and Anthony Pullen at the Red Rock Overlook.
If you are or know of a bartender who took on the fight against breast cancer, please don’t hesitate to contact our Program Director Moniek Pullen to learn how we can assist you, at moniek@ themodernmixologist.com.
PHOTOS BY:
Te Ann Lakeotes of TML photo
FACEBOOK PAGE:
/HelenDavidReliefFund
DONATE:
givlet.org/donate/0QCA/
WEBSITE:
USBGFOUNDATION.ORG Moniek and Anthony Pullen at the Red Rock Overlook.
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Tony Abou-Ganim in Las Vegas (Red Rock Canyon area).
Modern Mixologist BAR TOOLS Cocktail Art, Empowered Tony Abou-Ganim has turned cocktail making into an art form. Moving beyond the simple “how-to” of mixed drinks, he has inspired bar professionals across the globe to become more daring in their creations. Steelite International is proud to announce a partnership with Tony that introduces the tools every artist needs to create a masterpiece. Tony has taken classic barware and given it a modern, streamlined feel. These tools are designed to not mode only work perfectly together but also complement each other’s look and feel. These are tools for the professional bartender, and crafting great cocktails begins with the right tools. The Modern Mixologist barware line has everything the professional bartender needs to artfully prepare virtually any handcrafted libation. To begin with, the Boston shaker set is flawlessly sculpted for preparing any cocktail that is crafted by either shaking or stirring. The strainers (Hawthorne and julep) are designed with the perfect fit to work seamlessly with the Boston tin and mixing glass. The versatile, tightly crafted hand citrus juicer extracts juice with precision. The martini beaker, paired with the twisted long handled bar spoon, is an elegant and sexy way to prepare any stirred cocktail. All around, these tools liberate creativity and empower the mixologist to become an artist.
Andrea Day • 702-218-1989 Cell andrea@themodernmixologist.com Website: www.themodernmixologist.com Facebook @ THE MODERN MIXOLOGIST OFFICIAL FAN PAGE Follow us on Facebook TAG BAR TOOLS Follow us on Twiier: @MdrnMixologist In Instagram: @MdrnMixologist
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A DV E RTO R I A L
An American Company Representing Best in Class Vodkas and Heritage Brands BLOOD ORANGE MOSCOW MULE 2 parts ½ part ½ part 3 parts
Russian Standard Vodka Blood orange syrup Lime juice Ginger beer
Russian Standard Original is the standard for world class Vodka. It is created by combining state-of-the-art distillation techniques with time-honored traditions.
Build into an iced Russian Standard copper mug, and enjoy a unique citrus twist on the Classic Moscow Mule.
Russian Standard Platinum employs a proprietary silver filtration system known for its unique natural refining values. This exclusive process produces an extraordinary silky smooth Vodka with an ultra-clean finish.
PLATINUM WHITE RUSSIAN 2 parts 1 part 1 part 2 dashes
Russian Standard Platinum Premium coffee liqueur Fresh cream Chocolate bitters
Pour coffee liqueur, Russian Standard Vodka and bitters into an old fashioned glass filled with ice. Float fresh cream on top and let your guests swirl the ingredients to their taste.
For more information on ROUST products please contact Linda Lofstom.
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linda.lofstrom@roust.com |
P
847.456.6521
A DV E RTO R I A L
Żubrówka Vodka, or “ZU” as it is called, has over 600 years of tradition and history, and is infused with bison grass from UNESCO-protected Polish forests. One taste and you will discover the Elixir revered by mixologists worldwide.
ELIXIR DAIQUIRI 2 parts 1 part ½ part ½ part 1
BI SOME THYME 2 parts ½ part ½ part ½ part 4 2 drops 1 sprig
ZU Bison Grass Fresh lime juice Simple syrup Vanilla syrup Lemon twist for garnish
Shake all ingredients with ice until ice cold, strain into coupe glass. Enjoy the best daiquiri, with the intriguing aromas and flavor of UNESCO protected Bison Grass.
ZU Bison Grass Crème de Violette liqueur Fresh lemon juice Simple Syrup Fresh raspberries Orange bitters Fresh thyme
Shake all ingredients with ice and double strain into a chilled coupe glass. You will want to buy more time enjoying another!
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WHAT IT MEANS TO BE
FAMILY FOR LIFE C E L E B R AT I N G 5 0 Y E A R S O F R O B E R T M O N D A V I W I N E R Y
By Rebecca Wilkie, Cuvée Marketing
In 1966, Robert Mondavi chose the To Kalon Vineyard as the home for his new winery, stating,
“ It was a vineyard with a distinguished history and a magical nature, ideal soils, sunlight and rain. To my eye, the vineyard was a treasure.” ROBERT MONDAVI
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Dating back to July 1966, Robert Mondavi was a dreamer who believed he could make worldclass wines in the Napa Valley by creating Robert Mondavi Winery. During the following years, not only were those dreams fulfilled, but he is also credited with coining the term “Fumé Blanc” for his dry-fermented, oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc and starting the Robert Mondavi Winery Summer Music Festival concert series, encouraging art exhibits in the Robert Mondavi Winery Vineyard Room, as well as pioneering a collaboration with Baron Philippe de Rothschild to create Opus One Winery.
Robert Mondavi Winery Harvest of Joy Rosé pairs perfectly with the passed hors d’oeuvres and summer sun.
In addition, Mr. Mondavi has been honored with numerous awards for his contributions to the California wine industry. Along the way, he also created a family of employees, past and present, that have been a part of his legacy for a half century. In his book, Harvests of Joy, Robert Mondavi remembered about his father Cesare Mondavi, “He was loyal to his family and to the people who worked for him, and he received their loyalty in return. For me, this was a tremendous lesson on how to run and build a small family business, in spirit and practice.”
Larger than life art adorns the vineyards at Robert Mondavi Winery.
The first bottle of Robert Mondavi wine sold was Chenin Blanc for $2.00 a bottle.
He also explained, “It was only natural for me to treat our staff as one large extended family. The truth is, it was the only way I knew. As it had been with my parents, in my life there was little or no distinction between wine, business and family.”
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Cooking demonstration by Chef Cindy Pawlcyn, a pioneer in the development of Napa Valley’s wine country cuisine.
“ Wine, to me, is all about sharing.” ROBERT MONDAVI
On July 16, 2016, to celebrate their 50th anniversary milestone, Robert Mondavi Winery planned and executed a festive tribute to the winery, the founders and the wine. The free event was celebrated with winery tours of the To Kalon Cellar and barrel room, cooking demonstrations from famed chefs they have collaborated with over the years, tastings of special library wine, seminars with on-site wine educators, horse-and-buggy rides through the To Kalon Vineyard, a painting demonstration by Channing Rudd, and musical entertainment from local talent, including Shelby Lanterman. Current and former employees were encouraged to arrive an hour early to taste special wines, reconnect with each other and gather for a time of reflection of the past and a thankfulness for our time working in the wine industry. It was a beautiful day in Napa and as Mr. Mondavi would have it, the winery’s magical day was equally a celebration for the employees. As a former employee of Robert Mondavi,
In 1974, a white table wine and a red table wine from Robert Mondavi Winery were introduced as “Bob White” and “Bob Red.” Shelby Lanterman entertaining the crowd with her own music and favorite cover songs.
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Maestro, the 50th anniversary wine by Robert Mondavi Winery, is a fitting tribute.
I knew this highly anticipated event was not to be missed. From receiving warm hugs and snapping pictures with old acquaintances, to soaking in the privilege of being part of the Robert Mondavi “family,” it was clear why we were all there. Among the sentiments voiced such as “it was the best place I have ever worked” and “it was the hardest working bunch we’ve ever been employed with,” the appreciation heard most frequently was “this was a family.” Speaking of family, a highly anticipated part of the day included live music from Shelby Lanterman. For many attendees, it was enjoyable just to hear her carefully selected cover songs and original material, but for others, it was more – they were dancing and singing to sounds from the daughter of a former Robert Mondavi employee, Yvonne Lanterman. Many felt an overwhelming sense of joy and pride to see someone who grew up around the winery and employee events now performing solo on stage for this memorable celebration.
A special 50th anniversary wine blend was created, called Maestro – a harmonious blend of 59% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec.
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The biggest lesson learned while working at Robert Mondavi was standards were high and you had to have a passion for excellence. Entrepreneurial spirit flows deep in the veins of Robert Mondavi employees. Work and life balance was encouraged, along with the appreciation of quality food and exceptional wine. Mr. Mondavi had a path for life: “Follow your passion. Pour in your heart and soul. Settle for nothing less than excellence. And with enough hard work and faith in yourself, you can realize your dream.” We in the beverage industry repeatedly attend events that have extraordinary food and beverage experiences, but this was more. It was a walk down memory lane and a day reflecting on how our time at Robert Mondavi Winery shaped who we are today. Since that time, many of us have ventured off and started companies, or remained in the industry and applied what we learned to another company, yet we all shared in the privilege of working for Robert Mondavi Winery. As Mark Crisler of Trellis Wine Group wrote in the event scrapbook, “An amazing time at an amazing winery and family. So great to see so many wonderful people who shared the dream! Happy 50th, Mr. Mondavi!” I felt an extreme level of respect not only in going back to the winery for the 50th anniversary, but also in experiencing the true privilege of walking up to event registration and saying, “I’d like to check in. And yes, I’m a Robert Mondavi alumna.”
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Top: Mark Crisler of Trellis Wine Group strikes an iconic pose in honor of Mr. Mondavi.
Left: Sentiments for the event book that so many of us shared, as written by Mark Crisler.
“W ine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit.” ROBERT MONDAVI
k c u r t S ! t e g n G i n t h g i L y B White Lightning: 2 PARTS RUMCHATA + 1 PART WHISKEY SERVE COLD IN A SHOT GLASS
RumChata®, Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural and Artificial Flavors, 13.75% alc./vol. Produced and Bottled by Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI 53072. Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA and CHATA are Registered Trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC.
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The Starlight Room bar
I N N OVAT I N G
The Autumn Bar “Fundamentally,” says Linh Pham, Director of Food & Beverage for San Francisco’s Scala’s Bistro, Bar Drake and The Starlight Room, “hospitality is about creating [new] memories through sight, sound, smells and tastes.” But it’s also about evoking memories from the past, using flavor and scent to take guests “back to something that strikes a personal chord.” Pham states, “Fall is the beginning of many things: It can signify back to school, the holiday season soon approaching, and the celebration of family and friends. Our bar team, in collaboration with our culinary team, makes a nod to these memories and feelings in the nostalgia of our cocktail flavors.”
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By Maggie Hoffman
This autumnal nostalgia – that back-to-school feeling, the crunching of leaves, the crisp air full of possibility – doesn’t come from just serving the same old drinks from years past, though. The best bar teams put a twist on iconic cocktails and create new ones featuring ingredients that some customers might be surprised to find in their cocktail glass.
BEYOND BOURBON: Selecting Spirits “There are plenty of classic cocktails that are perfect for autumn. An Old Fashioned, Manhattan or Boulevardier are all perfect for the cooler weather,” comments Bob Peters, head mixologist at The Punch Room at The Ritz-Carlton in Charlotte. Justin Sheffey of The Starlight Room in San Francisco says he looks to Scotch to evoke pines and smoky fires in the fireplace, often making a hot toddy with a bit of pear added to it, sweetening the mix with a spiced simple syrup.
Linh Pham, Director of Food & Beverage for San Francisco’s Scala’s Bistro, Bar Drake and The Starlight Room.
“ Hospitality is about creating [new] memories through sight, sound, smells and tastes.” – LINH PHAM
Whiskey drinks require no seasonal adaptation. The toasty flavors of barrel-aged spirits seem ideally matched with the first cool fall breezes. But to add interest to an autumn menu, Peters recommends an unexpected twist – swapping out the standard bourbon or rye for earthy mezcal, made from agave hearts roasted in a wood-fired pit. “The beautiful smoky flavors of this lesser-used spirit remind individuals of lighting the fireplace for the first time when it gets cool outside.” Sherry’s oxidative and nutty side jibes beautifully with rich fall concoctions. “Lustau East India Solera sherry is another favorite that works quite well for autumn cocktails,” offered Brandon Wise of Sage Hospitality Group. “I enjoy mixing it with agave spirits and aged rums. Aged rums, like Don Q Extra Añejo or Ron Zacapa, provide a perfect base to build flavors around, and are a perfect complement to the sweet raisin notes on the sherry.”
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But a fall menu needn’t discard lighter spirits like gin entirely. Peters points out that rich, rounded barrel-aged gins are also available, and aging an entire gin cocktail is another option. Single-liter, two-liter and larger oak barrels are available from dealers like Deep South and Tuthilltown, which also offers a more affordable option: sections of charred oak barrel staves for quick infusion in a glass bottle.
A SWEET FLAVOR BRIDGE In light summer drinks, basic simple syrup made with white sugar allows fruit and un-aged spirits to shine brightly. But fall cocktails, especially those made with toasty oak-aged spirits, benefit from other sweeteners that can enhance richer, earthier characteristics. Unrefined Demerara sugar and the more affordable processed brown sugar add a subtle molasses note to drinks. “A brown sugar simple syrup is a beautiful thing in the fall,” says Peters. “[It] adds to the depth of flavor, which is perfect as the weather cools off.” Maple syrup contributes an unmistakable fragrance and richness to a cocktail. Since maple is about 1.5 times sweeter than standard simple syrup, half an ounce of maple syrup can be subbed for three-quarters of an ounce of regular equal-parts simple syrup. Peters also puts in a vote for sweet-and-savory, slightly nutty sorghum. “It’s one of my favorite Southern ingredients,” he says. “It’s often referred to fondly as the molasses or maple of the South.” For easiest inclusion, Peters recommends thinning the sorghum with hot water “so it will blend or melt into a cold drink without any problems.”
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SPICE IS NICE “As the summer bounty of produce wanes, it opens the door for spices and herbs,” says Brandon Wise. “Fall cocktails are about rich, robust flavors, and bartenders can really develop depth and complexity by focusing on how those spices are used.” Justin Sheffey mentions that a few of his specific favorites are star anise, ginger, white peppercorn and cayenne pepper. While any drink can be transformed by adding clove, cinnamon or ginger to a basic simple syrup, those flavors are even more vivid in liqueurs like Czech-made Becherovka, which Wise describes as having cinnamon overtones, and St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, which he says perfectly encapsulates baking spices like clove and allspice. For a combination of deep fruit flavors and spice, Wise also simmers spiced mulled wine down to a thick syrup for sweetening cocktails.
“ Fall cocktails are about rich, robust flavors, and bartenders can really develop depth and complexity by focusing on how those spices are used.” – BRANDON WISE
Above and right: Travis Briere of Scala's Bistro and Bar Drake, San Francisco. Fall 2016 • itmmag.com
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To add a vanilla note and caramel-like richness to his chai-spiced Rum and Rummer, Peters uses Licor 43, a Spanish liqueur flavored with vanilla, citrus and herbs. Wise suggests seeking out Nocino, a coffee-colored liqueur made with herbs, spices and unripe green walnuts. He recommends the grape brandybased Nux Alpina, made in Austria and imported by Haus Alpenz. (If you can find green walnuts, you can also customize your own house version. Quarter the nuts and steep in vodka with citrus zest for a little over a month. Then add a spice-infused two-to-one simple syrup and let it rest another month or so before straining.) Wise pairs the Nocino with a wide range of aged spirits.
“ Falernum ... can serve wonderfully as the sweetner and source of spice in all sorts of fall cocktails.” – BRANDON WISE
And while Falernum, a syrup laced with almond and clove, is most often seen in tropical drinks at tiki bars, it can serve wonderfully as the sweetener and source of spice in all sorts of fall cocktails, like Sheffey’s Fog’s Rolling In. The rich almond and clove cuts through bright citrus juice and adds depth to the rum drink (made with Plantation’s Pineapple Rum, which was developed in collaboration with cocktail historian David Wondrich).
Stirring a Mezcal Boulevardier.
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BEING SMART ABOUT PRODUCE IN SEASON “I think the easiest way to approach the challenges of the fall cocktail season is to embrace the offerings of your local farmers market. Local farmers are one of my absolute favorite resources to help me shape upcoming menus,” notes Peters. He shares one warning, though, “It is important to remember to ask how long each ingredient will be available. There are a wealth of items that are available at the beginning of the season that are not available at the end of fall.” Peters actually designs two separate fall menus, one in early fall and a second that follows as weather gets cooler and the early harvest passes. “To me, it makes sense to embrace two short seasons as opposed to fighting one larger, more difficult season,” he says. Though it is iconic, Brandon Wise recommends skipping pumpkin as an autumn cocktail ingredient. “I typically do my best to avoid pumpkin on seasonal cocktail menus. It tends to dominate the palate and doesn’t make for the best pairing to food.” While many bartenders work with apples, cider and pomegranate come fall, Josue Moreno of Urban Farmer in Portland brings in all sorts of unusual options. “This year, we are talking about sweet potatoes, fennel, fresh ginger, spiced pear, figs and other pickling applications for vinegars that the kitchen might often just dispose of after their uses.” In his Manzanita cocktail, Moreno calls for an apple shrub, made by simmering apple chunks in sweetened syrup, then blending the mix with tangy cider vinegar. Since shrubs were popular in Colonial America, perhaps it’s best to call this reclamation, not innovation. Either way, it’s delicious.
“ T his year, we are talking about sweet potatoes, fennel, fresh ginger, spiced pear, figs and other pickling applications for vinegars ...” – BRANDON WISE
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MEZCAL BOULEVADIER Created by Bob Peters
The Punch Room at The Ritz-Carlton,Charlotte
2 oz ½ oz ½ oz Garnish:
mezcal, such as Vida Campari Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth orange twist
Add mezcal, Campari and sweet vermouth to a mixing glass and stir with ice until well chilled. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with orange twist, expressing oils over the glass before adding to drink.
RUM & RUMMER Created by Bob Peters
The Punch Room at The Ritz-Carlton,Charlotte
FOR THE CHAI SYRUP: 12 chai tea bags 4 cups boiling water 1 cup sugar FOR THE COCKTAIL: 2 oz aged rum, such as Queen Charlotte’s Reserve ½ oz chai syrup ¼ oz Licor 43 Garnish: orange twist
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FOR THE SYRUP: Add tea bags to boiling water and let steep 5 minutes. Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Let cool before using; can be used immediately or stored in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks. FOR THE COCKTAIL: Add rum, chai syrup and Licor 43 to a mixing glass and fill with ice. Stir until well chilled. Strain into a Nick & Nora glass and garnish with orange twist.
FOG’S ROLLING IN Created by Justin Sheffey
The Starlight Room, San Francisco
FOR THE SPICED COCKTAIL SYRUP: 2 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 Tbsp black peppercorns 2 Tbsp white peppercorns 2 star anise 3 cinnamon sticks ¼ cup ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground cayenne ½ lemon FOR THE COCKTAIL: 1 ½ oz Plantation Pineapple Rum ½ oz St. George Spiced Pear Liqueur ¼ oz Falernum ½ oz fresh lime juice ½ oz fresh grapefruit juice ½ oz spiced cocktail syrup 1 egg white Garnish: bitters FOR THE SPICED COCKTAIL SYRUP: Add water, sugar, peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon sticks, cinnamon and cayenne to a saucepan. Stir and bring to a boil. Add lemon half and continue to stir until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, let cool, then refrigerate in sealed container overnight. Strain the next day. FOR THE COCKTAIL: Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Shake without ice until frothy, then add ice and shake until well chilled, about 12 seconds. Strain into copa glass. Dash bitters on top of foam, swirling around with pick as desired for decorative effect.
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MANZANITA COCKTAIL Created by Josue Moreno
The Urban Farmer, Portland
FOR THE APPLE SHRUB: 2 cups water 2 cups sugar 1 apple, sliced into chunks 2 cups apple cider vinegar FOR THE CINNAMON SYRUP: 2 cups water 2 cups sugar 3 cinnamon sticks
GETTING FIGGY WITH IT Created by Travis Briere
Scala’s Bistro and Bar Drake, San Francisco
FOR THE COCKTAIL: 1 ½ oz Reposado tequila ½ oz mezcal 1 oz fresh lime juice 1 oz apple shrub ½ oz cinnamon syrup Garnish: apple chip dusted with powdered cinnamon FOR THE APPLE SHRUB: Add water, sugar and apple chunks to a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar. Simmer until apples are completely softened, 20-25 minutes. Let cool. Add cider vinegar and
1 ½ oz H by Hine VSOP Cognac ½ oz Figoun Aperitif ½ oz f fresh lime juice 1 bar spoon black mission fig jam (such as Mountain Fruit Co.’s The Fig Galaxy) 1 ¼ oz ginger beer Garnish: lime wheel Add cognac, Figoun aperitif, lime and jam to a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Shake until well chilled and then strain into cocktail glass. Add ginger beer, garnish with lime wheel and serve.
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stir to mix. Pour into re-sealable container and keep refrigerated; apple will continue to add flavor to shrub as it sits. FOR THE CINNAMON SYRUP: Bring water and sugar to a simmer and stir to dissolve. Add cinnamon sticks and let simmer 5 minutes, then remove from heat and let cool. Remove cinnamon sticks when completely cool. Strain into a re-sealable container and keep refrigerated. FOR THE COCKTAIL: Add tequila, mezcal, lime, apple shrub and cinnamon syrup to a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Shake until well chilled, about 12 seconds, and double-strain into a coupe glass. Garnish and serve.
FRESH QUINCE OF BEL AIR Created by Travis Briere
Scala’s Bistro and Bar Drake, San Francisco
FOR THE TARRAGON SIMPLE SYRUP: 1 qt water 1 qt sugar 2 oz fresh tarragon
FOR THE TARRAGON SIMPLE SYRUP:
FOR THE QUINCE PUREE: 2 lbs quince, cored and diced 2 oz fresh lemon juice 1 oz sugar
FOR THE QUINCE PUREE:
FOR THE COCKTAIL: 2 oz gin ½ oz tarragon simple syrup ½ oz quince puree ¾ oz lime juice 2 oz Prosecco Garnish: tarragon bush
Add sugar and water to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add tarragon and let simmer 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Strain and refrigerate.
Combine quince, lemon and sugar in saucepan and simmer on low until quince is soft all the way through. Let cool, then puree mixture in blender until smooth. Fine strain and divide into re-sealable containers; puree can be stored 1 week in the refrigerator or frozen for future use. FOR THE COCKTAIL: Add all ingredients except Prosecco to a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Shake until well chilled, about 12 seconds. Double-strain into an ice-filled Collins glass and top with Prosecco. Garnish with tarragon and serve.
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By Mike Raven
W ITH ROUST US A
Leonid Yangarber CEO, Roust Americas
Linda Lofstrom Director of National Accounts On Premise
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in the Mix first had the pleasure of interviewing Leonid back in 2011 when his company was known as Russian Standard Vodka. This current interview gives us a chance to catch up again now that his company has expanded its portfolio and has renamed itself Roust. We are pleased that our friend, Linda Lofstrom, has joined the company to manage their national account business since then. Here are a few of the questions we asked in this recent interview and the answers given by Leonid and Linda. ITM: The Ultimate Spirits Challenge, a group run by F. Paul Pacult with some of the greatest tasters in the business, named Russian Standard Vodka as their top pick in last year’s vodka tastings. Did that help with customer awareness?
Leonid Yangarber
Leonid: Yes, certainly. The award was well publicized in industry publications and thus there was strong trade awareness. Additionally, we communicated the award to our consumers via social media and via neck tags on our bottles all year long. The neck tags were very eye-catching and really made the bottles stand out on shelf. ITM: When I started to learn about Russian Standard Vodka, the name Standard confused me a bit. Can you explain what the word is intended to mean in this spirit’s name?
Linda Lofstrom
Leonid: The name is derived from the formula created for vodka by famous Russian scientist Dmitri Mendeleev in 1894. Before then, there was tremendous variation in the way vodka was produced in Russia – different ingredients, different alcohol by volume, etc. The Czar commissioned Mendeleev to create a “Russian standard” for vodka so there would be uniformity among vodkas produced in the country. We are proud to faithfully follow this standard, and thus the name of our product.
Also, when something is the standard, it means it
is the benchmark against which all other things should be measured. That is the case with our vodka. Its quality and authenticity are unparalleled. ITM: Russian Standard has a Platinum and Gold tier. What kind of cocktails do you suggest for these luxury marques? Linda: Russian Standard Platinum is silky smooth with a clean crisp finish, due to a proprietary silver filtration that
smoothes the vodka. It is best enjoyed in a martini made with a very small amount of dry vermouth. Russian Standard Gold is a rich vodka with hints of ginseng and spiced notes, and is excellent in an Old Fashioned. ITM: Żubrówka, or ŻU as it’s known, the original Bison Grass Vodka from Poland, is a special spirit with a great history and origin. What do you think is the best drink for bartenders to make when they start using ŻU, in order to get acquainted with it, if they are not already? Linda: In Eastern Europe, Żubrówka is often consumed with unfiltered apple juice, which tastes just like an apple pie. ŻU and ginger ale, with a fresh squeeze of lemon, is another simple cocktail and also brings out the subtle layers of flavors with just two ingredients. ŻU is a mixologist’s favorite because of its intriguing taste and adaptability to enhance classic cocktails or innovate with subtle flavors. It is the ultimate speed to service brand, delivering on-trend flavors for today’s cocktails. ITM: Gancia Sparkling Wines is another exceptional line from Roust USA. If a customer does not carry it, can you give us a couple of the many reasons they should? Leonid: No other Italian sparkling has the heritage we have. Carlo Gancia introduced sparkling wine to Italy – Gancia is the original Italian sparkling wine! This should be attractive to authentic Italian restaurants. Additionally, Gancia offers a full range of sparklings, including our proprietary Pinot di Pinot, which is famous in Italy, and excellent wine-based aperitifs – vermouth, Americano and fernet. As everyone is aware, spritzes are a very hot trend right now. Accounts can use our Prosecco and our Americano to create a delicious, authentic Gancia spritz.
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Fortified Wines
What They Are and Why They’re Trending “Fortified wines seem to be working at other establishments – it kind of goes along with the trendiness of craft beer,” one operator told us, in our Spring TIPS research report. “Everyone is doing it and everyone loves it.” Like craft beer, fortified wines or wines to which a spirit has been added (typically brandy), have also seen quite the uptick in recent years, with publications such as The Wall Street Journal and Eater reporting on the resurgence and comeback of fortified wines like vermouth, port and sherry. The Wall Street Journal specifically calls out port, saying the wine has “found a second wind as a cocktail ingredient,” and that bartenders are “discovering that it offers many of the same characteristics that make vermouth and sherry so attractive for mixing, along with enough natural sweetness to replace the simple syrup commonly used in cocktails.” While some bartenders are starting to experiment more with fortified wines, these wines are still largely flying under the radar for both consumers (less than a third have heard of fortified wines) and operators overall (12 percent currently offer them). It’s clear that there’s ample potential in fortified wine though, with 43 percent of consumers saying they are likely to try fortified wines at restaurants, and 40 percent of operators saying fortified wines are a long-term trend. With consumer and operator data from TIPS and Datassential’s MenuTrends Keynote Report: Alcoholic Beverages, we’re diving into the world of fortified wines and how they could open new doors for beverage programs.
What exactly is fortified wine? Some fortified wines, such as vermouth, have long been used as a key ingredient in cocktail staples like martinis and Negronis, but the recent resurgence is also driving interest in antique fortified wines like sherry,
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served straight or in a cocktail. Fortified wines are split into several categories and subcategories with varying characteristics. Vermouth is actually an aromatized wine that can be sweet or dry, while sherry (which has its own subset of several varieties) is defined by the location where grapes were produced, in this case, in an area known as the “sherry triangle” in southern Spain. Other fortified wines are similarly named after their production center. Port, a rich, sweet wine fortified with unaged brandy, hails from Duoro Valley, Portugal; Madeira is from Portugal’s Madeira Islands; and Marsala is from the city of the same name on the island of Sicily, Italy. Because these wines are fortified with the addition of other spirits, they tend to be higher in alcohol content than traditional wines, with an average of between 15% and 22% ABV (still well below spirits like whiskey or gin). The alcohol not only gives the wines more flavor but also helps with the wine’s stability in preventing any further fermentation.
How can fortified wines add to your beverage program? Fortified wines are some of the fastest-growing varieties on alcoholic beverage menus today. Vermouth is up 79 percent in the past four years, sherry has increased 47 percent and Madeira has grown 31 percent. According to Datassential’s MenuTrends Keynote Report: Alcoholic Beverages, more than 40 percent of operators who offer alcohol include fortified wines such as sherry and port on the menu. Multiple operators told us they like fortified wines because they create a more well-rounded wine list, giving customers additional unique options and choices. In some cases, fortified wines have made the jump from primarily being on food menus to now starring in cocktails. For example, Marsala, known for flavoring Italian dishes like veal or chicken Marsala, has in the past four years,
decreased more than 10 percent on food menus, while on beverage menus, Marsala has increased over 200 percent. And if an operation is already using wines like sherry or Marsala on food menus, why not cross-utilize ingredients and offer consumers a unique beverage option? At Dante in New York, a traditional list of bythe-glass wines and beers is augmented with a selection of vermouths and sherries, including what they call “Vermouth Service,” a cocktail featuring on-tap Noilly Prat vermouth from France, frozen grapes, Perrier and lemon oil. Vermouths, sherries and other fortified wines/aperitifs are also interspersed throughout the beverage menu, putting a unique spin on cocktails like the Sherry Cobbler, with fino and Amontillado sherries, dry curacao, marmalade, bitters and lemon. Single-spirit bars, like Chicago’s 300-whiskey strong Longman & Eagle and Los Angeles’ 250-bottle Cana Rum Bar, are also popping up across the country, and fortified wine aficionados are getting in on the action. In Washington, D.C., you’ll find sherry-obsessed Mockingbird Hill, which pairs Spanish small plates with a vast sherry selection. The bar’s passion for the Spanish fortified wine shows both in its website URL, drinkmoresherry. com, and in its extensive sherry list, available à la carte, in tasting flights and in cocktails. Also in D.C., you’ll find The Royal, which offers a variety of cocktails and alcohols but is known for its house-made vermouth available on tap. While vermouth is traditionally produced overseas, a number of U.S. producers have also begun making it, giving operators and consumers new “craft” and “local” options. Twenty-two percent of operators say they purchase craft or small-batch fortified wines.
With some of these new craft options, bartenders have also been using fortified wines in place of high-proof spirits, either on “low-alcohol” sections of the drink menu or at bars and restaurants with a limited liquor license. Vermouth, sherry and port are flavorful options that open up new drink possibilities beyond saketinis and white wine margaritas. At Pearl & Ash in New York, which doesn’t serve hard alcohol, you’ll find a wine list that spans nearly 100 pages, along with lowproof cocktails made from fortified wines. An example is their Spiritual Americana with blood orange juice, Lillet rose and lime juice. Though there are opportunities for operators to expand beverage menus with low-proof cocktails and fortified wines, consumers for the most part aren’t that familiar with these concepts and even with wine in general. In Datassential’s Alcohol Keynote Report, one in four consumers said they don’t know much about wine. To mitigate the intimidation factor for consumers, operators can take the opportunity to educate and engage with consumers, whether it’s taking the time to explain different wine and flavor pairings, or offering samples or tastings (30 percent of those surveyed said samples would help lessen any uncertainties on choosing a particular beverage). For more data on fortified wines, low-proof cocktails and many more beverage insights, contact Datassential for products like TIPS and the nearly 200-page Alcoholic Beverage Keynote Report, which includes everything from consumer perceptions of beer, wine and liquor, to flavors and innovations within the industry.
This article has been provided by Renee Lee, Senior Publications Specialist at Datassential, a leading consulting firm and supplier of trends analysis and concept testing for the food industry.
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VOLCANIC ISLAND WINES The Azores and Madeira By Edward M. Korry, CHE, CSS, CWE
This past June, I was fortunate to visit both the islands of the Azores and Madeira. The latter has long been on my wine region bucket list, given its historic ties to the U.S. and its special qualities and longevity. It was a trip full of vinous and culinary surprises, which I will briefly describe. As I always like to point out, stories sell and, boy, do these wines have stories! And that’s the relevance to on-premise operators – not only do they have unique stories but also, the quality of the wines is superb.
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The Azores
Pico’s vineyards
I had been aware that the Azores had been a significant global wine producer up to the mid-19th century, when powdery mildew and phylloxera struck and pretty much wiped out its wine industry. Among the nine islands that constitute this mid-Atlantic archipelago (900 miles from Portugal’s mainland), I expected neither the verdant nature of the islands with their pineapple, banana and tea plantations; their dairy industry with rich and flavorful cheese traditions; nor their wine renaissance.
Wine was first produced on the island 10 years after settlement, around 1439. It is a testament to man’s will to harness nature. At its height, Pico had over 7,500 acres of vineyards with over nine million liters of wine production. Its reputation, especially for sweet or fortified wines, extended from the Russian Czar’s court to the Americas. Its vineyards, which are truly aweinspiring, are the reason for its having been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004.
There are three DOP and one regional IGP appellations from the Azores: Pico DO, Graciosa DO and Biscoitos DO and Azores IGP. The regional appellation includes wines from different islands and those made with international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon. Pico Island is the Azores’ principal wine producing island. It is known as “Ilha Preta” or the “Black Island,” due to its black basalt lava rock, and is named after Portugal’s highest mountain peak, Ponta do Pico at 7,710 feet. It looms in the background of this salty, windswept isle, which is most often in a shroud of mist – at least while I was there. It is 173 square miles large and has a quarter of the Azores’ population, with about 15,000 inhabitants.
The vineyards are small, individual rectangular plots for one to six vines, called “currais,” that are surrounded by four-foot high black lava rock walls. If one were to extend these walls end to end along with the
The vineyards are small, individual rectangular plots for one to six vines, called “currais,” that are surrounded by four-foot high black lava rock walls.
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taller walls, called “jeiros,” that separate properties, they would circumnavigate the globe twice. Without these walls, vines would be unable to survive the salty ocean winds. Adding to this picturesque environment are the “adegas” – small, startlingly whitewashed and black lava stone houses with pergola trellised patios. Adegas have a special place in Pico’s inhabitants’ hearts, as they are used to house their tools for their work in the vineyards and as the gathering place in the evenings during harvest, to eat and drink under the stars.
The grapes
The uniqueness of the environment is matched by the uniqueness of the varieties grown there. The three main varieties are Arinto do Pico, Terrantez do Pico and the Verdelho do Pico, which seems to be identical to the Verdelho of Madeira but not to that of the mainland. What makes these wines special is their bracing acidity and their minerally, almost “salty” and a hint of seaweed character, which leave a long impression and make any delicate seafood accompaniment absolutely delicious. The closest approximation to the profile of What makes these wines special is their these wines is those wines of bracing acidity and their minerally, almost other volcanic islands such as the “salty” and a hint of seaweed character... Assyrtiko of Santorini and the Carricante of Mount Etna in Sicily. There is definitely something one can attribute to wines grown on volcanic islands. The Arinto do Pico is now the predominant variety (not the same as mainland Portugal’s) because it is resistant to mildew and diseases. It also is quite productive, considering the vines need to delve deep into the soils to reach pockets of moisture, though the yields are around 1.25 tons per acre. The Verdelho, upon which Pico had built its fame, has riper flavors with more depth and is more full-bodied. The Terrantez grape in the Azores neared extinction some 10 years ago. There was an experimental station on San Miguel Island that had 89 vines remaining before being rescued by the commitment of Antonio Maçanita, celebrated young winemaker and a partner of the Azores Wine Company. This grape also has high acid and more stone fruit character.
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After phylloxera’s destructive onslaught, the paltry remaining acreage was planted in Licoros Winesto Isabella, an American hybrid. The irony is that due to the EU’s legal restriction, the Isabella cannot be sold with reference to its non-vitis vinifera name so it is being sold to high-end restaurants in Europe under the label of “The Forbidden One.” There are other varieties including international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah that are labeled under the regional IPR versus higher level Pico DO. The palecolored indigenous red that I found most intriguing was the Saborinho, which is identical to Madeira’s largest planted red, Tinta Negra Mole, and which has beautifully refreshing red fruit character and soft integrated tannins, with a minerally finish.
Fortified and non-fortified sweet wines of Lajido The wine upon which Pico built its reputation is its Lajido Licoroso wines, named after the first settlement of Lajes. There are different styles of wines made from Verdelho or a blend of Arinto, Verdelho and Terrantez – those that are late harvested, semi-sweet or sweet but unfortified, such as “Czar” de Jose Duarte Garcia; and those that are fortified and dry. Sweet Lajido wines have a minimum of 45 g/liter of residual sugar, while dry Lajido must have 15g/l residual sugar or less. The confusing element is that many of the wines labeled “licoroso” have had no additional alcoholic fortification and may be as high as 18% naturally. They tend to be aged for a minimum of three years in oak and some for considerably longer.
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The dry Lajido, with less than 15 g/l of residual sugar, has similarities to sherry’s amontillado in its oxidative nature and buttery core, but it has that seaweed saltiness on the finish. Acting as sommelier at the Azores’ 10 Fest to Michelin-starred Chef Jose Campoviejo of el Corral del Indianu in Asturias, Spain, I selected such a dry Lajido 2004 wine to accompany his first course of a white chocolate bonbon filled with a San Miguel cheese at its core. The pairing worked extremely well because its intensity held up to the food and there was just enough residual sugar to offset the touch of sweetness. The wine’s bracing acidity enlivened the dish further, while its tannins were muted by the salty richness of the cheese. The mere handful of Lajido wine producers include the dominating co-op, Co-operativa Vitivincola da Ilha do Pico that started in the 1950s, which has several brands including Frei Gigante, Terras de Lava and Basalto, The Azores Wine Company, Adega A Buraca, Curral Atlantis, Cacarita and Czar. The exciting news is that these wines are available in the U.S. now and provide operators with another story to sell to their guests. Production on the island is beginning to ramp up, and it is only a matter of time before these wines will be well known among wine drinkers in the U.S.
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Madeira My visit in Madeira was all too short but I came away with a different impression than what I came with. The volcanic island thrusts out of the ocean with very little accessible coastline because of its steep cliffs and slopes. Funchal, the capital, is where most of Madeira’s population lives. I was surprised by how much of a European tourist destination it is with, I am told, over 35,000 hotel rooms. The city has maintained some of its colonial charm, with its tree- and flower-lined roads, and is also noticeably kept very clean. One looks up to the looming volcanic mountains where one can go part of the way up via cable car, which I did, just for the view. The most startling aspect is how Madeira’s vineyards, at least on the southern side of the island, are tiny plots forming a quilted patchwork of green among houses on the steep slopes. The total vineyard acreage is 1,180 acres, with an average holding of its 1,050 growers of half an acre. The eight remaining producers depend almost entirely on contracts with these grape growers. Intermingled among these plots are banana, chayote and other crops. The lower altitude is more amenable to bananas and other crops, while the higher altitudes are where some of the finest grapes are grown. Madeira is in a subtropical zone, thus warmer and more humid than the Azores.
History Madeira’s historical connection to the United States, from its colonial period on, has been well documented. One could argue that if there was an early American wine, it was from Madeira. It is often repeated, though unsubstantiated, that the signing of the Declaration was toasted with Madeira wine. It was a mainstay of Thomas Jefferson’s cellar. Madeira’s victualing port of Funchal was critical to much of the trade between Britain and the Southern ports of Savannah and Charleston. The Dutch and English, in particular, can be held responsible for the development and ubiquity of fortified wines. Madeira, Portugal, Spain, Sicily, Australia and South Africa are all examples of where they were developed and shipped. Fortifying wines stabilizes and enables them to better survive long ocean voyages. Madeira wines were used as ballast in the holds of ships, where they were subjected to high humid temperatures over months and even years. They were basically cooked, which unintentionally made them almost impervious to long aging. There are a surprising number of drinkable Madeira wines from both the 18th and 19th centuries that are still available.
The vineyards The viticultural landscape of Madeira is very impressive with its terracing, called “poios,” on its steep volcanic slopes, its granite water channels and low pergola systems, called “latadas.” This allows for better airflow to reduce the threat of fungi, one of which began the downfall of Madeira in the 1850s. Needless to say, as in Pico, all viticultural work is manual. Traveling up the winding narrow road along the many precipices, one can imagine how difficult it was to bring in the harvest to the wineries in prior centuries.
The grapes and process The dominant grape variety grown in Madeira is Negra Tinta Mole or Tinta Negra, and it cannot currently have its name referenced on the label. The noble and traditional grapes are labeled varietally from driest to sweetest wines: Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey (Malvasia). Terrantez and Bastardo are also traditional grapes and allowed on the label but quantities are very small. Sercial and Verdelho are de-stemmed and pressed, while Bual and Malmsey are frequently left on the skins for cold soak maceration and fermentation, giving the wines more phenolic structure and tannins. The latter two are medium to very sweet, so are balanced by both the structure and high acid. Just like the wines of Pico, all Madeira wines are marked by very high acidity. This preserves these wines as much as the “canteiro” or “estufagem” heating process. To replicate the long seafaring voyages, wines are either warmed by the naturally heated canteiro system in solarheated warehouses or the estufagem system, which for the most part takes place in large, temperature-controlled, heat jacketed stainless steel tanks set at 45 to 50 degrees Celsius for a minimum of three months. There are variations to this system, including the “armazen de calor,” where the wine in large wooden casks is heated by steam pipes in a sealed room, at lower temperatures, for up to a year.
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Labeling Aside from the varietal proscription, wines that are labeled “Reserve” must have a minimum of five years of aging; those labeled “Special Reserve” are aged 10 years in canteiros only. “Extra Reserve” wines, with 15 years of aging, are rare because producers are more likely to produce a “vintage” or Frasqueira Madeira, having a minimum of 20 years of aging – 19 in oak and one year in the bottle. The word “vintage” will not appear on the label because it is exclusive to the port trade. Unfortunately, Madeira’s wines have lost much of their glamour and appeal but they are among the world’s most authentic and extraordinary wines. They can appeal to a broad audience by ranging from dry to sweet, with offsetting acidity and a distinctive, almost caramelized sugar note with dried fruits and baking spices; and they always finish with that ocean-minerally quality that instantly places the consumer in a special place.
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I was fortunate to taste delicious wines at Barbeito, also of the famous Rare Wine Company’s Historic Series; and at Blandy’s winery, the oldest producer on the island, a Blandy’s Sercial 1975 and Verdelho 1979; a Cossart Gordon Terrantez 1977 and Bual 1962; and finally a Blandy’s Malmsey 1999. All demonstrated the persistent qualities of Madeira wines and their extraordinary longevity. Even without offering jewels such as these, you can select any wines from Madeira or Pico Island for your guests, who will appreciate something truly special and enjoy being transported by them to a different time and place.
Since 1885, Italians have been enjoying Montenegro. It’s stayed popular this long by having a versatile character you spend years discovering. Now Montenegro has traveled from Europe to America, more specifically to the Manhattan. Put a twist on your classic recipe.
Discover the Monte Manhattan. 1.5 oz Amaro Montenegro 1.5 oz Rye Whiskey Splash of maraschino liqueur Brandied cherries
AmaroMontenegroGlobal @AmaroMonte @AmaroMonte
Please Enjoy Responsibly. Amaro Montenegro, 23% Alc./Vol. Produced and bottled by Montenegro S.r.l. Imported by Total Beverage Solution, Mt. Pleasant, SC.
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in the Mix had the pleasure of talking with Jennifer Glanville to discuss the trend of not only pairing a craft beer with cuisine but also cooking with it as an ingredient. It seems like the combination of food and beer is a trend that continues to pick up steam. Why do you think that is?
An Interview with
Jennifer Glanville Samuel Adams Brewer and Director of Brewery Programs
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Today, drinkers appreciate craft beer and cider in the same way they would a fine wine – enjoying the aroma, seeking specific flavor profiles, pouring properly, etc. They are expanding their palates and experimenting to see what full-flavored beers can offer as an alternative pairing to the traditional red wine. They also know that when beer is used as an ingredient in food, there are new flavor combinations that they’ve probably never tasted before.
Do you see restaurants capitalizing on this trend? Absolutely, and as we see more success stories, I think that number will grow even more. Everyone knows about the skyrocketing popularity of craft beer and cider over the last few years. What we’ve learned is that it’s not just about the beer – it’s about the experience that the guest has when drinking that beer. Restaurants and bars know that cooking or pairing a meal with a full-flavored beer like Samuel Adams Boston Lager or a cider like Angry Orchard Crisp Apple can elevate the overall dining experience for their guests. It’s all about offering variety that will enhance a food’s flavor and provide that unforgettable meal.
a great recipe for beer-infused brats using our Samuel Adams OctoberFest – perfect for celebrating the season. Recipes like these are sure to stand out on any menu.
What have you done to elevate beer to its rightful place at the table?
How have you worked with partners on this concept of cooking with beer?
As a self-proclaimed foodie, I love cooking with beer and creating fun, unique food and beer pairings because the possibilities are endless, with so many beer styles and flavor combinations to work with.
We have resources to develop unique and interesting recipes that include beer or cider as an ingredient. We have also partnered with a culinary innovation team on a few larger projects, developing a range of custom recipes that align with specific culinary, operational and brand needs.
We always talk about different food pairing options that work well and how to choose a beer that will enhance a food’s flavor, cut through richness, or contrast flavor. One great example is with our Boston Lager. The upfront malt character in Boston Lager matches the caramelized flavors of grilled or broiled steak, and deepens the natural beef flavors. The subtle hoppy spice helps cut through the meat’s richness. Another great pairing is slow-cooked country style ribs with apple cider barbecue sauce. Apples and ribs are a natural pairing and the hard cider promotes a nice caramelization of the meat. In addition to pairing, beer is an amazing ingredient in any dish. We have a great recipe for pizza using Boston Lager as an ingredient – and even the crust is infused with Boston Lager. And for the Oktoberfest season, we have
Additionally, we hosted an event earlier this year at the Epicurean Hotel in Tampa. The event, which we named “The Bazaar,” was a culinary immersion designed to provide unique flavor experiences and generate sales building ideas. We had a number of chefs on hand who discussed flavor trends and provided cooking demonstrations that showed the various ways those trends could come alive in a restaurant. Bottom line, there are so many different ways to cook with beer to create unique and innovative recipes, and some great food and beer pairings that are yet to be discovered, so I encourage everyone to think about beer as an ingredient to enhance any dish.
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LEGAL
A THOUSAND BATTLES: How the Recent Tide in Label Litigation is Shifting in Favor of Manufacturers By Oren Bitan
While the wine, beer and spirits industry is experiencing unprecedented innovation and growth, there is a corresponding burden impacting the industry – consumer class action litigation. The most recent wave of cases attack the content of beer and spirits labels, including geographic references like “Jamaican Style,” “German Quality,” or “Japan’s prime brew,” and phrases referring to “craft” production, like “handmade” and “small batch.” The lawsuits have targeted a broad range of beer and spirits brands including Red Stripe, Tito’s, Templeton, Maker’s Mark, Beck’s, Kirin and Blue Moon. The purported goal of these lawsuits is to protect consumers, but it’s never quite clear how many consumers actually base their buying decisions on the representations at issue. For example, in M’Baye v. Diageo Americas Supply, Inc., Case No. 15-cv1216 (S.D. Cal.), Diageo was sued because its label for Bulleit Bourbon stated that it is “Distilled By The Bulleit Distilling Co … In Lawrenceburg, Kentucky.” The plaintiffs alleged they were harmed because Bulleit was not distilled by Diageo in Lawrenceburg, but in fact, that Bulleit was sourced from Four Roses Distillery, which is located in Lawrenceburg. It is common practice in the whiskey industry for a whiskey brand to source bourbon from another distiller, but
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this is not generally highlighted on labels. The question then remains whether any consumer reasonably relied on this representation. This case is currently stayed, so the answer will not come anytime soon. In the case of Red Stripe beer, the court has spoken in favor of the brewer. The Red Stripe case of Dumas v. Diageo, Case No. 15-cv-1681 (S.D. Cal.) involved allegations that the labeling and marketing of Red Stripe misled consumers into believing that the beer is made in Jamaica from Jamaican ingredients. The lawsuit was likely filed because in 2012, production of Red Stripe moved to the United States. Central to the plaintiffs’ allegations were statements that Red Stripe was “Jamaican Style Lager” that possessed “The Taste of Jamaica.” Each Red Stripe bottle, however, disclosed that it was brewed in the United States. The district court dismissed the case because it found that neither phrase would confuse a reasonable consumer even though consumers may expect the beer to be brewed in Jamaica based on past production. The district court also cited Blue Moon’s use of the phrase “craft beer” as an example of non-actionable label representations. MillerCoors, the owner of Blue Moon brew, previously defeated a similar action attacking Blue Moon’s use of the phrases “craft beer” and “artfully crafted.”
Not every case, however, results in a victory for the manufacturer. After losing motions to dismiss two complaints, Anheuser Busch agreed to settle two consumer class action lawsuits over the labels of its Beck’s Beer and Kirin brands. In Marty v. Anheuser-Busch Cos., LLC, 43 F.Supp.3d 1333 (S.D. Fla. 2014), the district court kept alive claims that Beck’s Beer misled consumers to believe that the beer was made in Germany because it included the phrase “German quality” on its label, when in fact it was brewed in the United States. The district court reached that conclusion despite the fact the packaging also stated it was a “Product of the USA.” Similarly, in Suarez et al. v. Anheuser-Busch Cos. LLC, 201333620-CA-01 (Fla. Cir. Ct.), the Florida court kept alive claims that the phrases “Imported” and “Japan’s prime brew” misled consumers to believe Kirin was brewed in Japan, when in fact it was brewed in the United States. Given inconsistent court rulings, there is no simple way to avoid label liability. In addition, potential defenses (and odds of success) need to be assessed on a case-by-case basis. Beer and spirits manufacturers should continue to be vigilant regarding representations made on their labels, aggressively try to dispose of these cases at an early stage, and hope that this wave of litigation is a fad that will end in the near future.
Oren Bitan is a Los Angeles-based litigator at Buchalter Nemer
who has successfully acted as lead trial and appellate counsel for his clients. His experience includes handling false advertising, copyright, trademark and complex commercial disputes for clients in the wine, beer, liquor, consumer products, apparel and entertainment industries.
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AN INTERVIEW WITH
Marriott International’s
WOLFGANG LINDLBAUER Global Discipline Leader, Retired
By Mike Raven with Celeste Dinos
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Thirty-one years ago, Wolfgang Lindlbauer got the opportunity to work for Marriott International, and it stuck. Today, a week before his retirement, he is the Global Discipline Leader overseeing all key global operation disciplines including food & beverage, event management, engineering, spa, online retail, supplier diversity and sustainability. Prior to assuming this role, he served as the Senior Vice President, Food & Beverage Design & Development, leading a team whose work touched all of Marriott International’s 19 brands in 80 countries, from restaurant and menu design and food safety, to innovations in event execution, service and brand standards. Wolfgang has worked throughout the U.S., Middle East and Europe in various food & beverage and operation positions at Marriott branded hotels and corporate headquarters. Before returning to Marriott International corporate headquarters in 2008, he spent seven years as the Regional Vice President Operations for Continental Europe, responsible for food & beverage, rooms operations, brand standards and new hotel programming for Marriott International, for the region. Celeste Dinos, IMI Agency’s Vice President of Operations and I sat down with Wolfgang for an hourlong interview. The following are the words of one of the true icons of the business.
Mike: You have worked in different locations all over the world in your career. What was your favorite location to work in? It’s difficult to say. There were a couple of locations I really enjoyed for different reasons. I would say three places stick out among all of them. Probably the first one was Oman, Jordan. Back then, about 30 years ago, we were one of the few hotels in that market. I really enjoyed diving deep into the Arabic culture. In Jordan, people are very hospitable and they invite you into their family. I still have some local friends in Jordan. There was a lot of pride in Jordanians, the Bedouins, and even with the Palestinians. We just did amazing things at that hotel and we became the personal catering hotel for King Hussein and Queen Noor back then. It was just very special – if you drive up to the royal palace and they know your car, the gates open up. We did three weddings for children of King Hussein: his son Prince Abdulla, Prince Faisal and Princess Aisha, so that was really neat. We did functions for the Prime Minister and such. We did a lot of wild things, like dessert safaris. In terms of creativity, what we did with that hotel in three and a half years was just fun and the team was amazing along with the locals, so that really stuck out.
The second place was Dubai. Back then, the JW Marriott was a hotel where we were new and had the best rooms product; but with F&B, we didn’t have a reputation and it didn’t really work. But then, everything we touched turned to gold. We had a 350 percent increase in sales in about three years, and we got an extension through the owner for nine more F&B outlets. By the time we were done, 65 percent of the revenue came out of F&B and again, that hotel was so successful. The F&B really drove the success of the hotel. That was about 17 years ago.
Wolfgang addressing the 2016 Global Beverage Partners Meeting.
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The other place I really enjoyed was my first regional job in Europe. I was Vice President of Europe. To have 27 countries – to get exposed to all the variations between Kazakhstan, Beirut, Norway, Spain, and then the central regions, like going into Germany or Austria, Switzerland, France, and then into Russia – the diversity in all that was just really, really fun. And what you could do with a team of 100 operators and 100 hotels, and what you can actually get going for that amount of hotels – that was the first time I experienced something like that. It was very rewarding and I loved the diversity.
of the old Müller-Thurgau, which is now coming back in several regions with different twists. So, Burgundy is always a treat, but I think it took awhile for me to like Burgundies or beautiful classic Italians, New World wines. Less of Africa and New Zealand, except the Sauvignon Blancs. There’s no one particular one. Mike: You started as a bellboy as a kid. So many times people of your generation start from the bottom up. It must give you respect for all aspects of the business, all the way from the housekeepers to the general managers. Do you agree with that?
Mike: How many languages do you speak? Only two: German and English. Also some “kitchen” French and some bad Arabic language – that’s about it.
I f you’re not ready to do it yourself, you can’t expect it from anybody else.
Mike: You drink fabulous wine all over the world. Do you have any favorite varietals you enjoy the most? I frame (that question) up differently. Over time, we change up our preferences. I remember my first time in America – I loved the Chardonnay. Can’t drink an oaky Chardonnay anymore but then when I was in Europe, I was exposed to Portugal and drank some of the Albariños and some very crisp whites that you can’t find over here. I thought the value and quality were just amazing. I had the opportunity to be in Georgia and drank wine from one of the oldest wine regions in the world; I think about 8,000 years ago was the first viniculture. I had some amazing reds from their local grape varieties. I still love a great Cabernet. I love crisp whites: Sauvignon Blancs, I like Grüner Veltliner, some
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I think if you don’t demonstrate by doing it yourself you will never be taken seriously. I think you need to lead by example. Regardless of what it is – making a bed, going into the dish room, or cleaning a toilet – if you’re not ready to do it yourself, you can’t expect it from anybody else.
A display of the history of Marriott International at the headquarters in Bethesda, Maryland.
Celeste: Do you think this generation that is coming in now feels that same way? I think it’s interesting. I think expectations are changing and the speed in which people learn is different. I think the new generation has abilities, which I never got because I didn’t go through that type of schooling. It’s the whole thing about strategy, collaboration, how you really immerse yourself into a subject and do the research. I would say it depends how you sell it to them: If you can sell it as part of the research and part of that immersion, I think you will find people who understand that. I think young people have a lot of passion. They’re highly motivated by the second meaning behind something and I think those people who are serious actually take the time to do deep dives, and I will question if you have to work three months in housekeeping to understand it. But I do think people who are serious recognize the benefits
of really understanding those pieces. I think traditionally it took too long of time and our generation was probably taken advantage of by having those people as cheap labor too long in certain places. A culinary apprenticeship may be different, but to my earlier point, three months in housekeeping is too much. There is nothing they can’t learn in housekeeping in a week or two. But I do think the people that understand the business and are smart enough, they will take the time, but the amount of time needing to be spent has changed dramatically. I think now you can learn in six months what you could learn in two years in the old traditions, with the exception of things like culinary, which is highly technical and part of the experience is to do things one or two hundred times. Even a good bartender needs to be exposed to the pressure, the speed and everything. Your interest will drive things faster than in the old school.
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I talked to Dawn Sweeney of the NRA and she said we have about five or six million young juveniles in the U.S. who have no education whatsoever, and they don’t even get an interview. We, as the hospitality industry, could be actually the ones that take them in. But they lack the basic skills to even get a foot in the door. So, on one side, we are always looking at the universities but I think there’s a huge gap, particularly in the U.S., for not having trade schools. I believe this is a huge opportunity where we could make gigantic changes in the industry, especially in the hospitality, restaurant-bar. Mike: Having trade schools? Yes, and I’ll take it one step further. Trade schools were done a long time ago. What does a trade school look like today? Mike: A junior college, you mean? See, I think people learn differently today, especially the young kids. So a good example is what we are doing with Lobster Ink. After 30+ years in the industry, I’ve
never seen a training program like what Lobster Ink does, where basically everything is built on a digital platform on the iPhones. To a degree, you as the trainee have your own campus, like your own university in your pocket. As a bartender, you can learn about Scotch for example, and get a certification, accreditation and add it to your resume. And on top of it, now they learn all those great bourbon drinks, how to do a Manhattan and demonstrate to their supervisor. And I think today, in a time when resources are so tight and time is so tight, it’s crucial to be able to link into a training platform that I can customize based on my needs. Bartending is one example. You could argue the same thing around culinary. I believe, in the future with the careers shifting, if there is some learning platform there in the digital world, a person can get very quick training ready for any knowledge they need to grow their career further. Mike: Over the last few years, Marriott has been carefully observing the generational shifts in travel preferences. How have you adjusted to the preferences of the new Millennial generation?
I think today, in a time when resources are so tight and time is so tight, it’s crucial to be able to link into a training platform that I can customize based on my needs.
Wolfgang Lindlbauer and Mike Raven in the test kitchen inside Marriott International’s headquarters.
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California Table Wine, Š2016 Robert Talbott Vineyards, Salinas, CA. All rights reserved.
That’s a loaded question and not an easy one to answer, but I will. There are about eight or nine trends that we researched with Millennials around the globe. From those eight or nine, we think five or so are particularly important to the restaurant and bar industry. So, let’s take one example: social media – it is how people connect with the thinking of food and beverage, how those people learn about it, how they talk to each other about what’s cool and what’s not. How they communicate is changing the ball game. It’s not anymore the concierge that people go to in the hotel; those kids are on their smartphones finding the hottest restaurant and what’s the coolest bar. So that behavior is changing everything. We talk a lot about Millennials but I think Millennials, because of their social media connection, show how younger generations adapt faster to these technologies. I’m a Boomer but I pick up the same traits; it just takes me longer than my daughter. I’m learning with her, or from her, with the mobile device – how I order, how I perceive service in the hospitality industry, what other options I have available to me, Uber versus a taxi. Regardless of where you are, that one thing (mobile devices) is changing everything for us. It’s changing what customers expect, it’s changing the understanding of what’s local and what’s unique in a restaurant versus plain vanilla, and it’s changing also the way they want to be educated and learn. My attention span is different – if I can learn something in a three-minute video, why would I go through textbooks and reams of paper and, frankly speaking, forget. In this case, I press a button and it’s right there again. Mike: So it’s not so much the Millennials as it is just the way the world works now, right? I think they are the catalyzer for the whole thing; they’re the first. And it will be generation wide, but it doesn’t mean it’s only unique to one generation. I will call it the next generation customers. It’s not so much age related as it is behavior related. Mike: What is CANVAS all about? Does it apply to the previous question?
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Think about those changes in customer expectations, right? We looked at where the Millennials go in big cities and what do we offer, and what we saw was a vast difference. We also saw that a lot of those outlets done by this new type of thinking had very different investment models. It wasn’t flashy $1 million dollar restaurants; it was sometimes very simple but it was concentrated around a distinct point of view: What is it and what do you get there? It was usually driven by somebody who really cared and it was done with shoestring budgets. We basically asked ourselves if we could do something like that. We started a global food & beverage incubator in four continents; every continent gets to pick three locations, each receiving $50,000. Let’s put a protective shield over them so as not to have everybody rip them apart before they start walking, and then let’s see what happens. We gave them very little rules, very little direction; we just observed everything they were doing. Some hotels did something, some regional teams did something, sometimes it was external, sometimes it was internal, but it was amazing the amount we learned. And now of the 13 we launched originally, three we had to kill immediately, two we had to adjust and eventually they died, and some other ones also. Eight are still in operation today. Now we have another 13 new ones coming. So what that did also is it gave permission back to hotels to actually be allowed to do different things. They were allowed to test, allowed to take risks, allowed to do something on their own. It’s starting to spread like a little fire; more and more people pick it up and it’s really, really cool. Celeste: Did you have a favorite of the first 13? Well, the first one that opened is probably one of the most intriguing. I couldn’t call it my favorite because there are so many unique things to all of them. I love a lot of them for different reasons. But I think the one I like is Roofnic in London, because it’s now open for the second season. So, quick scenario: There is a hotel in London, corner of Oxford Street, a six-floor walk-up through a metal door, basically on a sidewalk in London, no elevator. It is 2,500 square feet; they put a picnic on the roof and called it Roofnic – with AstroTurf, Euro pallets, a bar from
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eBay, they just got it going. It got 600,000 pounds in five months of revenue. It was wildly successful. We had lines of 90 percent young people – customers we never had before. And then, we closed it down for the season and re-opened it again, but instead of re-opening Roofnic, they opened Notch. In Notch, they put a little greenhouse and Asian-inspired food; the cocktails were suddenly in little fish cans. So imagine, you get a Manhattan in a fish can – you pull the ring, you open it, you get a glass with a huge ice cube in it, you pour it over and there’s your Manhattan. So they needed to come up with really unique ways and it’s even doing better than last year. In the old days, we would have said, “This works! Let’s do 20 of them.” In the new world, they say, “It’s boring, it’s a year old. Let’s do something new.” That way of thinking – not putting rules and restrictions on it – is changing everything. I just love it. And think about it: We built restaurants to last for 10 or 15 years. We should be building restaurants to change after 18 months, with minimal investment.
I n the old world, we would have said, “This works! Let’s do 20 of them.” In the new world, they say, “It’s boring, it’s a year old. Let’s do something new.
Mike: It’s the new speed of business. Do you want to talk about the Gold Standard?
Celeste: Talking about what you’ve said, “platforms that face the customer,” I hate to use the word “newest” but everyone wants to put out iPads for wine lists. I almost find that cumbersome. What do you think? I think it’s going to be short-lived and die soon. I think that the consumers are educated to the use of their own device; they bring their own content. I want to bring my own content and use the screen to display what I have. I don’t want to be inconvenienced learning how to use every single device; I can’t be bothered with it.
Sure.
Mike: It started in ‘91; it has been the model for many different chains throughout the world. What does the future hold for that? Is it stable? Will it change? Well, it always will change. Obviously I will not influence the next change, but just think of us, we might have 32 brands*. Right now we have 10 different programs for 10 brands; we won’t have 32, I can tell you * Predicated on the acquisition of Starwood.
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that. I think the importance is, with that many hotels, we need to think about the platforms that power them. I think we have some of the best partnerships and relationships in the industry and I would say that shows through our Global Beverage Partnership meeting every year. The amount of resources and commitment we put in there – what I hear from our partners is, it is better than anybody else does. And I believe that is how you gain true partnership. And we think if we share, we get it back. Through that, I think, we have some amazing programs as of lately, and I think this is really a bit of the future. We will probably have four or five programs and then you highlight different promotionals or different activities in the different brands. Think about what we did for Renaissance with Punch, for Marriott with the Bourbon Society. There will be different things like that for other brands. But some of the others pending probably will be similar. Number one, it’s a lot of effort for our partners, as well as for us. At the end, I believe the true success is in which platform you use, that it comes to life when it faces the customer. And I think that’s where the future lies.
in the Mix Magazine
I f we share, we get it back. Through that, I think, we have some amazing programs as of lately, and I think this is really a bit of the future.
OUR FAMILY SECRET IS THE NAME ON THE BOTTLE 5000 Champagne Producers
24 Champagne Houses that are considered Grand Marques
10 Grand Marques that have been producing Champagne for over 100 years
1 Grand Marque that is owned and run by the namesake Father, Son and Daughter Team
Š2016 Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com
Clovis, Vitalie and Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger
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pay $15 a drink for. But if I go into a hotel bar, plain vanilla experience, wrong cherry in my Manhattan, poor ice, the drink is diluted after three minutes – there’s a real downer. I believe the customer recognizes the difference. What we need to do is have platforms for how we educate all those thousands of employees, with all the turnover and everything. That’s what I mean when I talk about the platforms; that’s what needs to change. And the thing is, it goes back to our partnership in Gold Celeste Dinos,Vice President and Partner, IMI Agency,Wolfgang Lindlbauer and Jason Patrick Lawrence, Standard. Each partner is IMI Director of Account Management, Marriott International, at Wolfgang’s retirement party. spending a ton on education and getting to all our associates. At a restaurant, I think it will always be the If I have 90 different brands in my portfolio and each interaction between the waiter and the customer that will brand does their own stuff, even if it’s only 15 or 20, how be the reason I go there. Otherwise, I think I’m going to can I hold my associate accountable that they are doing go to the Blue Aprons or to Seamless, and have my food the right things? It’s impossible; I can’t hold anybody brought (delivered). To me, the experience of dining out accountable. And everybody does his or her own stuff, is the service interaction and having a waiter or great just like we used to. So I think the opportunity is for the bartender and a great chef interact with me and educate me industry actually to build something where everybody sits and bring that experience to life. Think of your last good on one platform. We wanted to do that in Marriott, so we bar visit. If you had a great bartender who really knew put everything in My Learning, so now I can hold 3,500 his product, with beautiful garnishes, beautiful glassware, bartenders around the globe accountable. They learn how who had this craftsmanship – that is an experience I will to prepare an appropriate Manhattan. I can do that today. Then think of the power of being able to push messages out, new trends and things, to all those associates within a week or two. The experience of dining out is the
service interaction and having a waiter or great bartender and a great chef interact with me and educate me and bring that experience to life.
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Mike: I was reading an interview with Bill Marriott, from back in 2014, where he said, “We’ve got to be cool.” My question is, how cool does the chain want to be? As a Boomer, I still like The Ritz-Carlton, the Renaissance, and the JW Marriott experiences. Are you going to keep those signature hotels the same way they are for the most part?
Let me ask you, Mike: Do you like to go into a RitzCarlton Grill Room from 25 years ago, some of which are still out there today? You enjoy that, but would you like the quality of a Ritz-Carlton, with a luxury experience and service levels, but a new, relevant, nice restaurant? Mike: For me, I think I’d rather have the second choice: a new, relevant experience. But I still appreciate the traditional style. The thing is, brands need to stay relevant because even The Ritz-Carlton consumer is not okay with what we used to do. So, a Ritz-Carlton may not be cool, but it is a sophisticated and very experiential experience. But when you come into The Ritz-Carlton in Lake Tahoe from the ski slopes in your ski boots, you have an outdoor barbecue with fire pits and you can sit there in your ski boots. You couldn’t say that’s cool but those Ritz-Carlton guests love that. Mike: Well, that’s pretty cool!! (laughter)
Right? So, if cool is relevant for that audience and what they want to experience, then maybe The RitzCarlton is cool. It certainly doesn’t need to be dusty, old, outdated, and uninspiring. Mike: Great answer. Mike: Moxy hotels – how is Moxy doing? Has it turned out to be a little hotspot? We just opened the first two in the U.S. There’s only one in Europe and one is coming on. I think it will be amazing. I LOVE it! Just imagine, you walk into a hotel and you can’t find the front desk. All that’s there is a bar. Mike: It’s heaven!! (laughter all around) So the great thing is, is it something for everybody? No, but is it an awesome experience? I think so, yes. It doesn’t need to be for everybody.
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Mike: You don’t hear much about the Edition chain, but what a beautiful set of hotels there is in that grouping. Edition is hand-curated – we don’t put them just anywhere; they will grow slowly but each one is a jewel. And they will continue to be. Mike: Just beautiful, and in all the hottest cities in the world. You can’t put them everywhere; you have to be selective and curate them. They are an exceptional experience. Mike: What’s the future of the classic chains like Fairfield Inn & Suites Marriott, Springhill Suites and Courtyard? I have a feeling you’re going to give me the same answer you did with The Ritz-Carlton. They need to evolve. There are different economy models out there and they’re not necessarily urban brands or suburban brands but they share markets. They have a different purpose to some degree. Some of them are longstay hotels but if you stay in a Residence Inn, it’s wonderful; you have your little kitchen and all that. Fairfield Inn is similar, in a different price tier. A lot of those hotels are starting to add bars because the customers’ expectations are changing. The little retail market is offering different products, and adjustments are made for different room generations, which fulfills the requirements of those customers. So, the hotels need to be staying current. As breakfast trends change, the breakfast needs to adjust. We believe there is a need for those different brands in different segments and price tiers.
We threw an idea out. We saw our customers wanted a lot of new items that were local or limited editions not available everywhere, which had great stories.
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Mike: You recently did a Masters of Craft promotion/ contest with the winners receiving an invitation to attend the recent Global Beverage Partners meeting. How did that program work out for you? That was an interesting one. So, let’s call it CANVAS for partners. We threw an idea out. We saw our customers wanted a lot of new items that were local or limited editions not available everywhere, which had great stories. So we wanted to know what was out there. I think we had three weeks for the whole thing, so we basically had Jason (Lawrence) from your team (IMI) arrange a couple of competitions, and I think we got over 100 submissions. I think around 50 were cleared, with all the details we asked for, to be judged. We picked the top 10 and we invited them to join the meeting. Needless to say, the traditional partners took a bit of a back seat on that. But I personally believe I owe it to our partners to show them some trends and expose them to what is going on in the industry and what our customers are expecting.
Now, we have stories to tell, we have unique experiences for our customers, and I think our partners, again, benefit from that. I think some of them are getting the message because I know that some of our partners are coming up with very unique products with limited runs and limited editions, and we don’t allow every hotel to have it. The best hotels need to earn the opportunity to get some of those things. Now, we have stories to tell, we have unique experiences for our customers, and I think our partners, again, benefit from that. On top of that, we selected several of those, which are now listed as optional, in addition to the core program. In local markets, a hotel might be able to get something that was done a couple of miles away that they had not been exposed to before. So I do think that we need to stay relevant. We can’t ignore trends and I saw it as a good way to wake some of our partners up and some of them actually are very appreciative. Some others might not be, but I think they will get it.
THE SPIRIT OF GIVING MORE
We of fer a hear t felt toast to Marriot t International’s Wolfgang Lindlbauer on his retirement. We share in Wolfgang’s dedication and spirit of giving more, and it has been a pleasure to par tner with him throughout the years.
For more information please go to edrington.com © Edrington Americas 2016. Please enjoy our brands responsibly. All Brands shown are imported and produced by Edrington Americas, New York, NY.
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Mike: Environmental issues seem to have ebb and flow to them. Every other year or so, everyone starts talking about being “green” and then you don’t hear about it for a while. Then they start talking about it again. Is it still front and center as an objective, to be conscious of waste and consumption? Let me look at it the other way around. Do you think that we, as the soon-to-be largest hotel and lodging operator in the world, can afford not to? Mike: I would say no, you couldn’t afford not to. There you go. I think consumer concept is driving that agenda. And I think people who bear the cost try to squash it but it comes back. Squash it – it comes back. The more customer exposure it gets, and the more companies and consumers demand it, the more it will come. Look at just what has happened to certain food types, like sodas. Customers are more and more educated to everything. Suddenly you have handcrafted sodas, sodas with fewer sugars, sodas that are done organic – that happens because of consumer demands. I’ll give you another example. I was in a BMW showroom six months ago. BMW talks about sustainability and they built those new electric cars completely out of carbon Kevlar; everything in it is sustainable. Then I go to the coffee station – and get a Styrofoam cup. I had a discussion with the general manager; he didn’t understand my point. Mike: He didn’t? No, he didn’t. I said, “Well, think about it. In the meantime, I will go visit other BMW dealers.” Mike: Hmm … I’ll share something else with you. A couple of years ago in Europe, people started taking the packaging from items at the cash register desk, ripping it apart and leaving all the excess packaging they didn’t need on the counter. Thousands and thousands of people did that. Guess what happened? They reduced the packaging to the absolute necessary in those stores because they were drowning in garbage, since none of the customers were dragging this stuff home and filling their garbage cans with it at home.
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Mike: I have such a thing with plastic bags at the grocery store. If I forget my reusable sacks, I watch them put one item in one bag, then I rearrange everything and the bag girls and boys look at me funny. The say they are trained to put certain items alone and others together. I tell them I understand that, but if laundry soap happened to get on an egg, is the egg ruined? No. Everything goes in one bag. When we were kids there were no such things as plastic bags. Everything was wrapped in paper or put in a large paper bag that was recycled along with everything else, the Coke bottles, milk bottles – everything. They make such a big deal out of recycling now; we did it without thinking about it, and it was just the thing to do. Hopefully it will return to that way. There are supermarkets opening in Europe now – just a matter of time before they are here – that carry only bulk products, you bring everything (to carry them). Everything is bulk. It’s coming, and the neat thing is we are actually working with the industry on some of the food waste. I think minimizing food waste will be one of the largest trends in the next 24 months, globally. There are too many people with nothing to eat and we are throwing food out. I know we are working on it, along with the American lodging industry and probably soon the National Restaurant Association. I think it is our social responsibility. Mike: As far as giving away leftover food is concerned, it’s mostly legalities that stop things like that from happening, isn’t it? No. Actually, that’s an internal excuse. There’s a Good Samaritan Food Donation Act that actually lets you do most of it. People just like an excuse because it’s more work and effort, and yes, it does cost you some money, but it’s the right thing to do. Mike: I think this question has already been answered, but how has the proliferation of Internet-based programs affected the industry?
Changed everything. Turned it on its head. It’s the speed at which everything is communicated. I think for chefs, life was easy (and for bartenders). But now the customer knows all about the latest trends – the level of education of the consumers is incredible. It changed the game for all of us.
Mike: Tell me your elevator speech for a new hotelier. What would it be, for a young guy or girl coming up in the business? If you don’t love it, get out of it tomorrow, while you still can. (laughter) If you love it, and you’re sane, enjoy the ride of a lifetime. Mike: Everywhere I read something about you, I see this quote: “Someday, somebody much smarter than you will work for you. Teach that person whatever you can, pass it on, and it will come back to you someday.” Has it? Many times, many times. People who have worked for me that became successful have crossed paths with me later. Sometimes they say to you and remind you, “Remember when you told me this?” That makes a world of difference; that’s what our business is all about.
Marriott Gold Standard Beverage Partners Meeting at The Ritz-Carlton Beach Resort, Naples, FL
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Mike: So you’ve never been afraid to help people all you could, all along the way and be afraid of them coming back and being your boss, or something like that? No. And I’m not afraid to share things for the industry. I think we have a lot of the same battles together. It is so much more difficult for one of us to change that mindset, so I think those are examples of how good things come back. Take the F&B Star Report – they wouldn’t have existed if they hadn’t teamed up with all the other hotel companies. And for the first time in history, hopefully our owners and asset managers will understand the importance of the F&B business. I think in the next couple of years, it will change how they look at the evaluation of the entire hotel. Today, someone looks at 60-65 percent of the revenue, because F&B is seen as a cost center, an amenity. But if I say, what is the opportunity for the entire hotel and how can I drive its success, it changes the way I look at it. And the reason I want to share those things is because I think if we all work together as an industry, we can change the mindset. And I do believe that the business needs to change a lot. And if we look through the same old metrics, we won’t get there. I believe in sharing with partners, and some of the things with competition because it benefits us as an industry, and then with individuals. Mike: You’re getting ready to retire. I assume you’re pretty excited about that.
I do believe that the business needs to change a lot. And if we look through the same old metrics, we won’t get there.
I am.
Mike: What’s the first thing you are going to do? First, I’m going on a 10-day vacation to Europe. Then we come back and put our house up for sale. Then I rented an RV for 80 days and I’m going to drive with my wife and our dog through the United States, before we relocate to Europe. Mike: So you are going to go back to Europe?
Yes, I’m going back.
Mike: Germany?
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Mike: Are we going to find you back in the business somewhere over in Europe? I will do something, but I want to do something different. I don’t know what yet. I have a couple of ideas and I need to take some time to figure out what I want to do. I will continue to have some fun, don’t worry about that. (laughter) Personally what I have a lot of passion for is around the whole education thing in this industry. There are no trade-learning programs, call it apprenticeship, whatever it is. And I think the opportunity is huge,
not just in the U.S. where you have so many uneducated people. I can’t get an education if I don’t pay $50,000 a year, really?? This is so principally wrong!! Mike: I have a daughter who’s starting medical school and just to apply to a dental school, it costs her thousands of dollars – just to give them her applications. Just an application!
If there’s one passion I have... [it’s] to help people who don’t otherwise get a chance.
See, this is just so wrong. Instead of an apprenticeship, okay, I go a week to school and I learn looking over the shoulders of somebody four days a week. I learn and learn and learn. It might take me two or three years to get there. I think a lot of this learning can be done through digital formats. Let’s say, here are your base courses, now you need to demonstrate that you can do that. This company, Lobster Ink, they built everything on this because they come out of South Africa, where there’s no infrastructure. There are some brilliant innovators out there today and to me, it’s between the industry and the beverage suppliers to align. We want to go to one platform of learning education. What we can do as an industry between our partners, the National Restaurant Association and the restaurant and bar and hotel business, what we could do for millions of people in North America and in Africa, Russia, and lots of other places, is amazing. We can change the industry, instead of getting all those people with foul attitudes that don’t appreciate having a job because they only do it until they can do something else. There’s no pride! If you want to be a service professional – say, a true waiter – in Europe, you go to two years of school. But then you know how to filet a Dover sole, you know how to flambé a steak, you know the chemical reaction when you are pickling, or this or that – they have that knowledge, they have that pride. They can take customers through journeys. You can do that today through other means. And I would say if there’s one passion I have, that’s a huge one: to help people who don’t otherwise get a chance. There is so much staff turnover, lack of education, lack of career progression and lack of seeing the future, instead of asking, “What is the future for me?” We can answer that for millions of people. That, to me, is big. That might be one of those ideas I’m after.
Wolfgang Lindlbauer, Innovator, Marriott International
Wolfgang, Best Wishes for continued success and impact in the industry. Prost (cheers)!
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MAKING THE ROUNDS With Helen Benefield Billings
RAISING A GLASS TO THE SWEET LIFE
The cider bar inside the tree house.
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Ryan Burk, Head Cider Maker at Angry Orchard Hard Cider, greets Pete Nelson of Animal Planet’s hit show, “Treehouse Masters.”
With sweeping views of their 60-acre apple orchard and the scenic Hudson Valley as their backdrop, the folks at Angry Orchard Hard Cider in Walden, New York recently teamed up with Pete Nelson and his talented crew of craftsmen from Animal Planet’s hit TV show “Treehouse Masters” to construct a one-of-a-kind tree house tasting experience for their guests.
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Perfectly nestled into the arms of a huge white pine tree, the structure was built 18 feet high and showcases the entirety of the apple orchard and surrounding area. It features a full bar for hard cider tastings, in an open-air pavilion concept with one single wall located directly behind the bar. Hard cider is stored in barrels in the stone barn, an existing structure just next to the tree house. The cider is cleverly transported through a 30-degree Fahrenheit pump, out and up into the tree house, for the most perfect cider on tap imaginable. What a dramatic and super inviting place for people to come up and enjoy a cider, and appreciate the grand scope of this magnificent property. Entrance to the Angry Orchard tree house.
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Angry Orchard Innovation Cider House entrance.
Ryan and Pete at the cider bar in the tree house.
Angry Orchard has fashioned the ultimate hard cider lover’s paradise. Their zeal for the art of cider making is palpable, and partnering with Pete and his team who strive to connect people with nature was the ideal blend of passion and creativity.
Angry Orchard’s head cider maker, Ryan Burk, was kind enough to answer a few questions that you might find of interest: Ryan showing Pete the apple harvesting equipment.
“ We have a special place in our hearts for trees because without them, we wouldn’t have cider!”
ITM: Why did Angry Orchard decide to work with “Treehouse Masters”?
Ryan: Our team was drawn to Pete Nelson’s creativity and energy to build inventive, unique tree houses. It’s very similar to the cider making process – we both get to express our creativity through our craft – so it was a natural fit to work together.
– RYAN BURK
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We have a special place in our hearts for trees because without them, we wouldn’t have cider! Pete and his team obviously share that passion. We’re all committed to quality craftsmanship when it comes to making something great. In their case, it’s tree houses, and in ours, cider. ITM: What are you most looking forward to about this tree house? Ryan: We wanted a great new place to enjoy the cider that we make here on our orchard. At its core, the Innovation Cider House is our playground for experimentation, innovation and pushing the boundaries of what cider can be for U.S. drinkers. But, at the end of the day, we want drinkers to visit and learn about the history of cider, how it’s made, and to explore new/ experimental cider styles in our tasting room. A tree house overlooking our orchard offers visitors an entirely different perspective of our ciders and the Hudson Valley landscape, since they’re able to overlook the orchard and really understand the cider making process, from apple to glass.
www.angryorchard.com
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BIZ MIX
BAR 16 AT THE NATIONAL RESTAURANT SHOW This year’s Beverage Alcohol Restaurants Show, BAR 16, was another smashing success! in the Mix covers the event annually and we want to share some of the highlights from this past May’s Sunday and Monday events.
Top right: Billy Dec, CEO/ Founder of Rockit Ranch Productions, was the BAR 16 keynote speaker. He actively oversees the creation of bar programs for Rockit’s wildly successful see-and-be-seen nightclubs, sophisticated bar and grills, casual dining and sports bars. Attendees heard how Dec collaborates with his team to develop killer concepts built around award-winning cocktail innovation, standout branding, and chef-driven menus – and how his team motivates him to invest in cutting edge bar programs that elevate the customer experience and his company’s profits. Right: On Sunday, the Star of the Bar Regional Finalist Cocktail Demos was the main event. Six mixologist finalists showed their secrets behind the drinks and sampled the creations that earned them the top prize during their regional competitions. All the finalists presented their drinks to the panel of industry judges and a new winner of Star of the Bar was crowned. Baron Stelling of Paragary’s Midtown and The Shady Lady mixed up “The Stag Savior” to win the San Francisco regional. His blend of Jägermeister with gin, lime juice, grenadine and apricot liquor, topped with dashes of bitters and absinthe, won him the title of Star of the Bar!
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The main stage seminars were loaded with insightful current trends. Here are some highlights. 1. Catching Up with Cocktails World-renowned bartender Charles Joly, owner of Crafthouse Cocktails, hosted the session. He showed why a fresh, intelligent cocktail program should be an integral part of your business.
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2. Hops and Highballs: Beer Cocktails Whitney Morrow, Beverage Manager of Drumbar, demonstrated the techniques you need to put a new spin on beer service. 3. Breaking into Craft Beer Breakthru’s Master Cicerone, Dave Kahle, gave an overview of the craft beer certification process and led a tasting of some local favorites. 4. Small Bar Program, Big Profits Scott Koehl, Bar Manager of DMK Restaurants, shed light on how to maximize profits when working with a smaller bar program. 2
5. Tipsy Teas Chef Nate Cayer, of I|O Godfrey, taught the tricks behind turning tea into a perfect potable when blended with complementary spirits.
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BIZ MIX
REALITY GETS REAL: Chef Robert Irvine and Jon Taffer
History was made at the NRA Show as its first-ever, 100 percent crowd-sourced session was held, featuring Chef Robert Irvine of “Restaurant: Impossible” and Jon Taffer of “Bar Rescue.” Chef Robert Irvine and Jon Taffer, both wildly successful in their own right, spend their days visiting restaurants and bars that are in trouble and lending their expertise, experience and passion for the industry to help operators turn around their businesses. They’ve seen it all and then some. Chef Irvine and Mr. Taffer came together to discuss the common pitfalls they have seen, and how to identify and address them before they become critical. They also provided perspective on what it takes to pull an operation back from the brink of failure. They shared anecdotes about the incredible diversity they’ve experienced in the industry, reminding us all why hospitality is our calling.
Above: Of course, the after-hours action was world-class. The official afterparty of NRA Show and BAR, Restaurants Rock, gathered hundreds of hospitality pros for an epic Chicago night of drinks, dancing and live music by American Author.
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Ultimate Beverage Challenge (UBC) was founded in 2010 by award-winning author/critic/journalist/ educator F. Paul Pacult, publishing executive and editor Sue Woodley, and consultant David Talbot. In 2013, editor/journalist Sean Ludford became a partner. For the past five years, UBC has operated Ultimate Wine Challenge (UWC) and Ultimate Spirits Challenge (USC), which are acknowledged as being two of the world’s foremost annual international wine evaluation and competition events.
CIDERS OF NORTH AMERICA
This issue, we are featuring the Ultimate Wine Challenge’s 2016 top picks in the Ciders of North America category.
Score: 97 Angry Orchard The Muse Apple Cider 7.7% abv Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation Caramelized baked apple, Ceylon cinnamon and hints of allspice, thyme and rhubarb are evident on this dense, sweet sparkling cider. The bubbles provide an excellent counterpoint to the full, rich texture, while baking spice notes come to the fore on the dry finish. 90
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Score: 95 Angry Orchard Green Apple Cider 5% abv Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation Honey and beeswax are strong on the nose. Soft bubbles are frizzante, complementing the sharper tang of ripe Granny Smith apples. A woodsy earthiness gives structure to the ripe fruit and finishes dry and clean.
Score: 93 Angry Orchard Knotty Pear Cider
Score: 93 Angry Orchard Crisp Apple Cider
6.5% abv Excellent, Highly Recommended
5% abv Excellent, Highly Recommended
A piquant aroma with herbal elements reminiscent of cilantro and floral lavender. A touch of sweetness in the mouth is followed quickly by ripe Bosc pear and more herbal dryness. A crisp finish is refreshing.
A sweet nose includes savory aspects of beeswax to create an alluring aroma. Tight bubbles are crisp and playful on the tongue, as flavors of honey, golden apple and honeysuckle cascade over the palate. Delicately sweet and tart.
Score: 93 Angry Orchard Ice Man Apple Cider
Score: 93 McKeown Hard Pear Cider Montérégie
10% abv Excellent, Highly Recommended
5.7% abv Excellent, Highly Recommended
A deep golden amber in the glass with aromas that smack of fresh, crisp Pink Lady apples. A frothy and almost creamy texture is lively on the tongue. Flavors of preserved lemons, lemon rind and sweet, freshly picked apples are mouthwatering.
Sweet and playful on the nose, it is full of fresh flowers and Anjou pear aromas. Bursting with pear flavor and yellow flowers, the frizzante texture is fresh. A touch of lemon rind creates a well-balanced dry finish.
HONORABLE MENTION Score: 91
Score: 91
McKeown Hard Cranberry Cider Montérégie 5.7% abv Excellent, Highly Recommended
William Tell Apple Mango Muscat Cider California 6% abv Excellent, Highly Recommended
Score: 90
Score: 89
Angry Orchard Summer Honey Apple Cider 5% abv Excellent, Highly Recommended
Angry Orchard Elderflower Apple Cider 5% abv Very Good, Strong Recommendation
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The Cherry Blossom Bash Dinner sponsored by Terlato Wines.
THE 40TH ANNUAL CONFERENCE OF THE SOCIETY OF WINE EDUCATORS
The 40th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators was held August 11-13, 2016 at the lovely Mayflower Hotel in Washington, D.C. Highlights included Washington-themed dinners and networking happy hours, presentations of the most current information, research and debates, and tastings of hundreds of delicious and iconic wines. The pre-conference activities included CWE Boot Camp and the CSE Preview, certification exams and a tour of Virginia wine country. The opening keynote speaker, Bill Deutsch, mesmerized the crowd with his stories of building a wine business through the beginnings of the modern wine industry in America. His talk was The opening keynote speaker, Bill Deutsch.
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Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS and Vice President Trade Relations, Trinchero Family Estates, SWE’s new incoming President.
followed by three days of over 56 unique and fascinating speakers and topics ranging from American rum and aquavit, to tasting strategies and minerality, to the wines of Austria, Burgundy, Tuscany and beyond! The Society welcomed in Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS and Vice President Trade Relations, Trinchero Family Estates, as SWE’s new President. They also announced their newest board members and released 300 new questions to the SWE Wine and Spirits app! The commencement of the SWE’s 40th anniversary conference featured industry veteran Bill Deutsch, who captivated the crowd by retracing his 35 years of building one of this country’s largest wine companies. Bill believes that these six “p’s” are crucial for market success: people, product, package, price, promotion and potential. However, “people” always come first. He set the stage for an epic three days to follow. Top: Bill Deutsch being welcomed by Ed Korry, CHE, CSS, CWE and current President of SWE. Above: An intent group listening to keynote speaker, Bill Deutsch.
The entire recap of seminars, presentations and handouts is available on the Society’s website, societyofwineeducators.org. It is well worth looking into, as the information is spectacular.
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Wine Quiz The Society of Wine Educators’ free app, SWE Wine and Spirits Quiz, is available on all platforms. Just look for it in your app store or go to winewitandwisdomswe.com. It offers a series of fun, educational quizzes covering the five major categories: red, yellow (white wines), spirits, sparkling and dessert wines. Here are this issue’s sample questions. The answers can be found on our website, ITMmag.com.
1. Which is a vin de liqueur fortified with Armagnac? a) Liquore Strega b) Floc de Gascogne c) Chambord d) Amer Picon
6. What country has a wine region known as “Knolls of Dobrogea”? a) Crimea b) Serbia c) Romania d) Austria
2. Which is one of the leading white grapes of the Veneto? a) Chenin Blanc b) Isabella c) Cortese d) Garganega
7.
What is a stobrawa? a) A white grape variety b) A red grape variety c) A type of potato d) A species of grain
8.
Which winery is located in Lake County, California? a) Copain Wines b) Langtry Estates c) Calluna Vineyards d) Marimar Estate
3. Which distiller produces Rhum Martinique? a) Saint James b) St. Nicholas Abbey c) Foursquare d) Appleton 4. What type of wine is produced at Clos La Coutale? a) Cahors b) Vouvray c) Red Burgundy d) Sancerre 5. What is the only allowed grape in the Weinviertel DAC? a) Pinot Noir b) Grüner Veltliner c) St. Laurent d) Riesling
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9. What is the main grape variety of the Bouzeron AOC? a) Aligoté b) Sauvignon Blanc c) Chardonnay d) Chenin Blanc 10. Which grape is also known as Morellino? a) Merlot b) Barbera c) Tempraniollo d) Sangiovese
SWE
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www.societyofwineeducators.org • www.winewitandwisdomswe.com In the Mix Full pg Spirits Ad 8-17-16 FINAL.indd 1
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TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES PRESENTS: by Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS
Fall Warmers
ACROSS 1 Roussillon’s Vin Doux Naturel (mostly Grenache) 6 Tequila cocktail with apple and cinnamon (Spanish for apple plus “rita”) 8
Precious gem, and young port
10 Type of American apple brandy (also kids’ cereal) 11 Fractional blending system for sherry 12 Upper Midwest variant of eggnog, or a famous cat and mouse cartoon 13 Grape-based brandy from the Poitou-Charentes region of France
DOWN
14 German type of mulled wine
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Home of Manzanilla Sherry
16 Hot chocolate drink with schnapps; also Charlie Brown’s friend
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Great drink for the common cold
17 Black Laurel wine of Greece
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Grape used for Rutherglen’s “stickies”
18 Sherry’s most important grape; “Giddyup”
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Italian pomace brandy
19 A vintage tawny port (minimum seven years old)
7 Scotch, sweet vermouth and bitters (drink of Robert McGregor?)
21 An aromatized, fortified wine and originally flavored with wormwood (origin of the name)
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Port grape; the “red dog” Tinto
22 San Francisco’s Buena Vista serves up to 2,000 of these Irish warmers daily
13 Apple brandy from Normandy
23 Champagne’s vin de liqueur
16 Grape used for the “cream” in cream sherry
25 New York City cocktail with whiskey and vermouth
20 A dry Madeira
26 Home of Marsala
24 Special yeast of a fino sherry
in the Mix Magazine
15 Port’s river valley
Family-owned in Napa Valley since 1948
Š2016 Trinchero Family Estates, St. Helena, CA
Trinchero Family Estates began in 1948 as a small, family-run Napa Valley winery with one storied brand: Sutter Home. Now in its third generation, the company has grown into one of the most respected family-owned wine and spirits companies in the industry, with over 45 award winning global brands. Today, Trinchero Family Estates remains an independent, family-owned business committed to quality and value.
www.TFEwines.com
Fall 2016 • itmmag.com
99
AMERICA’S ORIGINAL CRAFT VODKA WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS
PTS
My American vodka beats the giant imports every day. Try American! It’s Better.
100
in the Mix Magazine