Spring 2015 by in the Mix

in the Mix

Vol. 43 Spring 2015

I N N OVAT E

I N D U L G E

E X P L O R E

Vol. 43 Spring 2015

The Modern Mixologist

TONY ABOU-GANIM

w w w.intheM ixMagazine.com

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Spring is finally here, after much of the country has been through one of the worst winters in years.

We celebrate nine years of working with Tony Abou-Ganim, starting with the tremendous photo of Tony in front of The Bellagio casino in his hometown of Las Vegas. We also interviewed Tony for this issue – an interview not to be missed – that gives us an inside look into the popular mixologist. Tony has been writing the “Adventures of the Modern Mixologist” and “The Adventures of George” for in the Mix for nine years, and it has become our most popular column ever! Speaking of good interviews, I met with the Crystal Head entrepreneur, Dan Aykroyd. He was in Atlanta before his appearance on the “Saturday Night Live” 40th anniversary show. He talks all about his vodka project with us, with insights in a way only he can articulate. Our third interview is with Brandon Sage, the new corporate director of beverage for the Sage Restaurant Group. We ask him all about some of Sage’s most popular outlets and he shares some breathtaking photography of the restaurants. We had so many positive comments from our “Wine Dogs” pictorial that we have come back with “Wine Cats,” an exceptional photo essay on some of the cutest felines in wine country. Our featured spirit for the issue is vodka and we have several great articles about the spirit, including Tony Abou-Ganim’s “Adventures of George” where he is drinking Bloody Marys at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris, “Super Vodka: An International Spirit” and an essay on Absolut Vodka’s commitment to their process and ingredients. And, as usual, there are plenty of great wine articles, a new wine quiz from the Society of Wine Educators, Barry Wiss’ crossword puzzle and much more! Mike Raven Editor, in the Mix

Cover: Christian Andrade of Cashman Photo, Las Vegas, took the amazing shot of Tony in front of the Bellagio Las Vegas.

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Publisher's Letter

A Year for Reinvention and Innovation Here is an opportunity to look into my crystal ball and make a few predictions for 2015 on a macro scale. We are coming off a period of vigorous growth for the hospitality industry as a whole. And as the first quarter of the new year unwinds and we navigate through the waters of the on-premise, we can make some projections. This is a year of change for the hospitality industry especially. Restaurant and hotel chains are moving aggressively in refreshing, reimaging and remodeling their physical structures to increase customer engagement and revenues, as competition heats up. Technology continues to lead the way with mobile wizardry, and all sorts of devices and programs that interface with the consumer. Reserve a table, pay for dinner and rate your experience, all from your mobile phone. On the payment side, Apple Pay and Google Wallet are forging their way out of the novelty phase and into disruption. The true hero of the mobile payment movement is not who you may expect: Starbucks claims up to 90 percent of the $1.6 billion spent using mobile phones over the past two years. With a market share that large, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear they paved the way for real change. Uber is another fantastic company using technology to drive disruptive services in a mature industry through innovation and forward thinking. Hospitality companies that partner with Uber will be the real winners of guest satisfaction and responsible practices. Social media sites will continue to hone their data touch points to influence and drive customers to hospitality sites. Googleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s OpenTable and other restaurant reservation services, along with Facebook, Yelp and Four Square, continue to refine their social and profile intelligence. While sometimes creepy and overtly devious, they are a successful tool in our free and open Internet. Automated bartender devices continue to propagate. And wine dispenser systems had a banner year, as more wineries participate in by-the-glass pours and keg wine. These trends are clearly for convenience, speed and the need to differentiate â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and are the new direction for 2015.

Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower. - STEVE JOBS

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INNOVATE 24. In and Out – by Ned Barker 34. Technology — Is This the End of the Swipe? by Adam Billings

44. Interview — Dan Aykroyd, Principal Owner of Crystal Head Vodka 54. Interview — Tony Abou-Ganim, The Modern Mixologist 67. Wine Quiz by The Society of Wine Educators 82. Spotlight On — Brandon Wise, Corporate Director of Beverage for the Sage Restaurant Group 92. CORE (Children of Restaurant Employees) Update by Lauren LaViola 94.

Wine Cats, a book review by Mike Raven

98. Crossword Puzzle by Barry Wiss, CWE CSS, of Trinchero Family Estates

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E L E VAT E Y OU R

TASTE WITH

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INDULGE 20. Is This the Year of the Riesling Renaissance? by Katie Kelly Bell 28. Low Proof, Big Payoff: Low-Alcohol Drinks are Poised to Add High-Octane Opportunity to Beverage Menus by Katie Ayoub

50. Wines with Altitude (or Attitude) by Ed Korry, CHE CSS CWE 60. Absolutely From One Source: The Story of Absolut Vodka 64. Variety is the Spice of Life by Maeve Webster and Mike Kostyo 68. Super Vodka: An International Spirit 86. Ultimate Beverage Challenge reviews vodkas

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EXPLORE 14. The Adventures of George: Bucket of Blood … aka Bloody Mary by Tony Abou-Ganim 36. Making the Rounds With Helen Benefield Billings — An Epic High Seas Holiday

72. Making the Rounds With Helen Benefield Billings — The Mellow Life: Dishing Out Their Own Brand of Soul 90. Hospitality Executive Exchange (HEE) Conference highlights by Jen Robinson

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DELEÓN® Tequila is made from the finest 100% Highland Blue Weber agave sourced from the rich earth of the Los Altos region of Jalisco. Hand-selected at harvest for high quality and peak ripeness, our plants yield the sweetest piñas, giving the tequila its abundant character and balance. Slow roasting of the agave in traditional brick and clay ovens, combined with slow fermentation, under the precise guidance of our master distiller contribute enriched depth and complexity to the agave’s natural sweetness, creating a remarkably nuanced character. DELEÓN® Tequila achieves this astonishing depth of flavor in just two distillations – allowing the tequila to retain the unique character acquired during the fermentation process.

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Tony Abou-Ganim, The Modern Mixologist, is an accomplished bar chef and consultant who has created several original cocktail recipes including the Cable Car, Sunsplash, and Starlight. He has recently authored his second book Vodka Distilled (Agate Surrey).

Ned Barker is a hotel industry veteran and principal of Grill Ventures Consulting, Inc. (www.GrillVC.com). Specializing in F&B, GVC works with both hotel and restaurant companies. GVC’s work ranges from full concept development to operations/ marketing review & analysis, to special one-off project assignments.

PUBLISHER DON BILLINGS E D I TOR I A L A N D D E S I GN E D I TO R M ic h a e l R ave n D E S I G N E D B Y C o n n ie G u e s s , ThinkWorks Creative COPY EDITOR & PROOFREADER Christine Neal A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R C e le s t e D in o s ASSOCIATE EDITOR Helen Benefield Billings A DV E RT I S I N G S A L E S, m ike @ I T Mm a g. co m

Edward Korry is an Associate Professor and Chair of the Beverage & Dining Service Department in the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI. Edward carries many certifications as well as being the president of the Society of Wine Educators; and an executive board member of the US Bartenders Guild Master Accreditation program. Adam Billings is the Director of Creative, Technology and Innovation at iMi Agency, a full service marketing agency in the hospitality industry. He manages adult beverage programs for chain restaurant, hotel and concession clients.

Travel and Hospitality Industry writer Helen Benefield Billings has been with in the Mix since its inception in 2004. Helen lives in her native childhood home of Sea Island, GA, when not travelling or attending industry functions with her husband Don.

E D I TOR I A L A N D BU S I N E S S OFFIC E

1 1 9 6 B u c k h e a d C ro s s in g Wo o d s t o c k , G A 3 0 1 8 9 7 7 0 .9 2 8 .1 9 8 0 F a x 7 7 0 .5 1 7 .8 8 4 9 m i ke @ I T Mm a g . c o m / i n t h e Mix Ma g a z i n e . c o m in the Mix magazine is published quarterly by iMi Agency. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

in the Mix is exclusively operated and owned by Incentive Marketing Inc. Submissions: Incentive Marketing Inc. assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs.

Visit our website intheMixMagazine.com for guidelines on how to submit inquiries or contact our editors.

Katie Ayoub is the managing editor of Flavor & The Menu. She also owns Katie Ayoub & Associates, and can be contacted at katie.ayoub@gmail.com.

Katie Kelly Bell writes a monthly wine, food and travel column on Forbes.com. She also contributes to USA Today, Decanter, Men’s Book and TravelChannel.com. Katie was recently awarded the Magazine Association of the Southeast’s MAGnolia Award for excellence in writing and editing. She lives in Atlanta with her husband and three children. Maeve Webster is the senior director and Mike Kostyo is the publications manager of Datassential, a leading consulting firm and supplier of trends, analysis and concept testing for the food industry.

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L a r r y M c G i n n , P a r tn e r C e l e s t e D i n o s , P ar tn e r D o n B i l l i n g s , Fo u n d ing Pa r tn e r

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The Adventures of George by Tony Abou-Ganim

Bucket of blood ... aka Bloody Mary

King Cole Bar “Red Snapper”

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George planned to enjoy the Super Bowl in Las Vegas and checked into the Bellagio early on Saturday to relish the weekend. After a trip to the spa for a workout, steam and massage, he was ready for cocktail hour and knew it was time to visit Michael at the Petrossian Lounge. “George, how are you, my friend? Welcome back!” Michael greeted him and asked, “Negroni?” This guy is good; always remembers my name and what I like to drink, George thought. “I’m great Michael. Nice to be back here for the game, dinner tonight at Bouchon, and maybe shoot a little craps,” George replied. “How’ve you been?” “Good, very good. Work has been busy; it’s always busy at Petrossian. We have some wonderful golden Ossetra caviar tonight that we’re serving with a pairing of three different vodkas, if you’re interested,” Michael proclaimed. “When am I not interested in vodka and caviar?” George responded. The golden Ossetra was delicious – creamy, nutty and slightly briny with a beautiful pop,

which paired beautifully with all three of the featured vodkas: one made from winter wheat, one from corn, and the other a mix of rye and wheat. George finished the caviar, paid his check and thanked Michael for his always gracious hospitality. He then headed to the cabstand for his quick trip to the Venetian and dinner at Bouchon. It was still early and the bar at Bouchon was not yet at capacity, so George grabbed a seat and perused the cocktail menu. “(Absolut Elyx) Vodka martini please, stirred, twist of lemon, two onions and hold the vermouth,” he ordered. George found his martini to be perfect – icy cold, crisp with a slight grainy sweetness that was balanced by the briny pearl onions, and accented beautifully by the subtle citrus oils of the lemon.

“What, no Negroni?” a voice inquired. The voice

belonged to Paul, restaurant manager and sommelier. “You know me too well, Paul. I was drinking vodka and eating caviar at Petrossian and the vodka was getting good to me, so I decided to stick with it,” George replied. “But I’m about ready for some foie gras and a glass of

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Sauterne.” George followed the foie with delicious steak pommes frites, thanked Paul for the hospitality and took a cab back to the Bellagio. The following day, George awoke to the annoying ringing of his alarm clock. After a long night of shooting craps and sipping martinis, he was surely in need of a pick-me-up! George headed down to the sports book to place his Super Bowl bet and get some much-needed “hair of the dog.” After taking a long sip of his Bloody Mary, George made sure to compliment the bartender on the exquisite libation. “Thank you so much,” replied the bartender. “Our recipe is based on the original from Harry’s New York Bar in Paris. We have been serving our Bloody Mary the same way since Bellagio opened in 1998.” “So you’re telling me the Bloody Mary was invented in Paris?” George questioned. “Yes. Many are surprised to know that the Bloody Mary originated in Paris,” answered the bartender.

“I love Paris!” George enthusiastically replied.

After a few Bloody Marys and losing his bet on the game, George headed up to his room and contemplated more on the Bloody Mary. If this was originally from Paris, he had to go see the bar where this phenomenal concoction was created. Heading to the airport, George could not help but be excited about visiting his favorite city and discovering the birthplace of the Bloody Mary. After a long overnight flight into Paris, George grabbed a cab to the George IV Hotel, showered and freshened up so he could arrive at Harry’s Bar in great condition and with much anticipation. The cab pulled up to Harry’s in the mid-afternoon. The bar was fairly slow and George found himself a seat at the bar. The bartender approached George and asked what he would like. George replied, “I understand this is where the Bloody Mary was invented?” The gentlemen behind the bar, in the starched white jacket, replied simply, “Oui, Monsieur.” As the bartender made George’s drink, he went into detail about the drink having been created there in the early 1920s by an American bartender named Fernand “Pete” Petiot. The Bloody Mary originated as equal parts tomato juice and vodka, until Pete added the spices and lemon juice to the drink. The bartender continued to tell the story, “After the repeal of Prohibition, Pete moved to New York City to be the head bartender at the King Cole Bar inside the St. Regis Hotel.

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In fact, if you ever make it to New York City, please try and visit the King Cole Bar.” “That sounds spectacular. I happen to have a layover in New York on my way back home!” George said, excitedly. “By the way, do you happen to serve any food here? I’m starving.” “Harry’s was also where the first hot dog was ever served in Paris,” replied the barman. “Great! I’ll have one and another Bloody Mary, please.” After paying his check, George said farewell, and the bartender mentioned to him to be sure and ask why the King is smirking in a mural at the King Cole Bar. Only planning to stay one night in Paris, George headed to one of his favorite restaurants, Chez Paul. One of George’s favorite pastimes in Paris was enjoying some of the finest French bistro fare. Walking into Chez Paul, George spotted his friend Julian working, and greeted him, “Bonsoir, Julian.” “What a great surprise, George!” Julian replied. “So happy you were able to come for dinner and great to see you back. Table for one?”

“Yes, please,” answered George.

“I’ll have something for you in about 30 minutes,” Julian reassured George. “Sounds great, “ George replied, taking a seat at the bar. Almost on cue, Julian came from the back with a bottle of Champagne, plate of foie gras, toast points and sea salt.

“Here’s a little something while you wait,” Julian said.

“Beautiful!” George declared, with his mouth watering.

Once seated, George began with an order of escargots in butter and parsley, followed by bone marrow

and sea salt, and finally, the côte de boeuf with pommes farcies, washed down with a beautiful bottle of Côtes du Rhône. He finished the night sharing a glass of calvados with his friend Julian, and then headed back to the hotel for some sleep before his morning flight to New York. Landing in JFK, and with only a four-hour layover, George quickly hailed a cab and headed straight to the St. Regis. Walking into the grand hotel, George made his way to the King Cole Bar, where he secured a seat at the bar and perused the menu. “Excuse me, I understand you are famous for your Bloody Mary but I don’t see it listed on your menu,” George inquired. “We still call it the ‘Red Snapper.’ Vincent Astor didn’t care for the name ‘Bloody Mary’ back in 1935, so we still go by the ‘Red Snapper’,” replied the bartender.

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“I’d love one,” George ordered. He found it to be very well balanced, with a good foundation of vodka and tomato juice, along with a nice tang of acidity from the freshly squeezed lemon juice and just the right amount of spice. “Very good! I believe I’ll have another,” George declared. “Can I ask you a question? Why is the King smirking in that beautiful mural?” “That’s a famous mural by Maxfield Parrish, entitled ‘Old King Cole’,” the barman replied. “But why is the King smirking? A bartender at Harry’s New York Bar said I needed to ask,” George questioned. The bartender motioned for George to lean over the bar and he whispered the answer in his ear. “Now, you are not allowed to tell anyone else – they must find out only from a bartender at the King Cole Bar,” pronounced the bartender. George finished his Red Snapper, thanked the bartender and headed out front to hail a cab. On the ride back to JFK, he pondered his journey to discover the origins of this iconic libation; and although he felt there surely must be more to this tale, he did leave with a greater appreciation for the drink and a big smirk on his face.

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Bellagio Bloody Mary 2 oz

vodka

4 oz

Campbell’s Tomato Juice

4 dashes Worcestershire Sauce 2 dashes Tabasco sauce Pinch of kosher salt Pinch of coarse ground pepper Juice of ¼ lemon (freshly squeezed) Build in an ice-filled mixing glass. Roll contents between mixing glass and tin, and strain into an ice-filled specialty glass. Garnish with a lemon wedge.

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Is This the Year of the

Riesling Renaissance? By Katie Kelly Bell

Poor Riesling, it’s like that sweet puppy in the pound that everyone agrees is cute but no one ever adopts. Riesling has the affection of sommeliers and winemakers to be sure, but that love has a hard time crossing over to the consumer. This might possibly be the year of Riesling as various regions, including California, Oregon, New York, Alsace and Australia come into focus, bringing some fine choices to the conversation and increasing this orphan’s chances of finally becoming the wine everyone wants. Here’s my lineup of this year’s most exciting Riesling regions.

NEW YORK The Finger Lakes region of New York State is actually the largest winemaking region in the eastern United States. During the hot summer months, the steady supply of cooling fog from the area’s deepwater lakes (some over 600 feet deep) significantly influences the near-ideal grape growing conditions while surrounding steep slopes provide perfect drainage for vines. There are currently over 100 wineries in the region experimenting with a range of varietals, but

without exception the Rieslings reign supreme, exhibiting the classic profile of flawless acidity, minerality and juiciness. The world is starting to notice too, as the accolades come in a swift, steady stream from the likes of The New York Time’s critic, Eric Asimov, and magazines such as Wine Spectator.

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CALIFORNIA

ALSACE

Riesling was once more widely planted in California than Chardonnay, and that may come to pass again if winemakers such as Ted Bennett of Navarro Vineyards keep crafting such delicious examples. The cooler regions with longer growing seasons, such as Navarro’s Anderson Valley, are natural fit for this varietal. Santa Barbara winemakers have also been successful with Riesling. Even Napa winemakers, such as Charles Smith of Smith-Madrone, have been cultivating Riesling for decades. Overall, the California style tends toward spicier, richer wines with tropical notes.

This enviable combination of east-facing mountains (which buffer the rains and keep the sky sunny), cooler temperatures, and mineral-rich soils gives Alsace the winemaking edge, making this region home to some of the world’s finest examples of Riesling. Having mastered the art of cultivating this varietal over the course of centuries, the winemakers here craft racy, bone-dry versions as masterfully as they craft rich, sweeter, more full-bodied wines. In general, the Alsace Rieslings tend toward the drier side, showing a beguiling contrast between tropical and mineral notes.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

AUSTRALIA

Washington and Oregon have been home to some fabulous, well-priced versions of Riesling for many years. In fact in 2007, winemaker Randall Grahm’s Pacific Rim Winemakers built the first wine facility in Washington’s Red Mountain AVA completely dedicated to Riesling production (even crafting a sparkling version). Oregon wineries are taking advantage of the state’s cooler climate to craft crisp, elegant examples as well. In general, Rieslings from the Pacific Northwest tend toward a leaner, crisper style with stunning mineral notes and terrific food-pairing potential.

Clare Valley in South Australia is home to wonderful limestone-rich soils that yield some of the world’s most steely Rieslings. The area is at a relatively high elevation (around 1,500 feet) and enjoys cool nights to help retain grape acidity. Interestingly, this remote, quiet winemaking region also is known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Eden Valley, also in South Australia, produces more perfumy Riesling, but one almost equally matched in acidity and minerality.

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IN By Ned Barker

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OUT

Does your hotel offer bar or restaurant seating outdoors? If so, are you getting the most you can out of it? Maximum sales and profits? High guest satisfaction? Outdoor restaurant and bar patios, terraces and decks are extremely popular. Yet they may represent a missed opportunity or two. Of the restaurants that use OpenTable’s reservation service, 166 in Miami tout their outdoor seating and that doesn’t include bars. In Chicago, the number is 228, Indianapolis 30, and on and on. Outdoor seating comes in all shapes and sizes. The Hyatt Palm Springs’ Hoodoo Restaurant & Bar is an independent F&B venue of the hotel, situated where the action is, at one of the city’s busiest intersections.

In St. Pete Beach, Loews Don CeSar’s Sunset Bar features an outdoor ocean-view, beach-ward extension of their bar-restaurant. The historic Stephen F. Austin InterContinental Hotel on Austin’s popular 6th Street features a second floor terrace that wraps around from its Stephen F’s Bar to its conference area. Indianapolis’ Market Table offers an attractive outdoor dining option on a patio adjacent to the indoor restaurant. So what is the allure of outdoor seating? Well, there’s “people watching” of course. And almost always fresh air. Often there’s a view (besides people watching). And an outdoor environment is, by its nature, welcoming and casual. Sure, there are some downsides. Outdoor seating may come with too much or too little heat. In a few areas, the air could be filled with cigarette smoke or with gnats.

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There are challenges for servers, too – getting through the doorway with a loaded tray may require the balance of a ballet dancer and the strength of a football player. Keeping the tables and “floors” clean requires additional vigilance. The bottom line? The customer has spoken: We all know how often we pass a restaurant that’s packed outdoors while virtually empty inside. In short, demand is high. And what do hoteliers do when demand is high? No, I’m not recommending higher prices for those sitting outdoors. But hoteliers are generally pretty adept at maximizing revenue opportunities. Outdoor venues should not be an exception to these sound practices.

: : How does your customer experience outside compare to the experience indoors? Do you deprive your outdoor guests of the entertainment, music or TV you show inside? Or do you offer them, but in an inferior format? : : Do you track your outdoor business, or just lump it in with the main eating or drinking area? Track the daily temperature and precipitation, covers and average check – and sunset time. This data will give you the information you need to make your outdoor venue even more popular. : : What else can you do with the space? Think out of the box. The Vintro Hotel & Kitchen in South Beach offers its rooftop for

HERE ARE SOME THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT A HOTEL MIGHT DO.

private dining during the day, and its Canal Terrace for daytime or evening events.The InterContinental Stephen F. Austin uses its second floor terrace for catering functions as well.

: : Consider branding your outdoor seating area. It’s easier to talk about something that has a name. This won’t be right for everyone, and there is a cost; but if it’s right for you, it opens the door to marketing, menuing and other opportunities. : : Even if you don’t brand the area, be sure to mention it in your marketing and social media endeavors, whenever you mention the bar or restaurant it’s “tied” to. : : Is your menu exactly the same, indoors and out? Think about a food or beverage item that will provide a special experience for your outdoor guests. For example, Victory Bar in Atlanta serves Jack & Coke Slushies from a slushy machine. These are high-margin, quick-service drinks that add a little fun to your outdoor venue. Last fall I enjoyed a Saturday afternoon in Las Vegas at Umami Burger in the new SLS – and was so surprised to see a frozen beer offering that I had to try it. Maybe you have a fire pit outdoors? If so add S’mores to your outdoor menu. Or put it on a promotional piece for your tabletops. : : Speaking of tabletop pieces, do you neglect this type of promotion because of the wind or other elements? Reprint your outdoor menus on throwaway paper – and weigh them down with interesting, eclectic, inexpensive tchotchkes purchased at a Cost Plus World Market, Toys R Us, Office Playground or wherever suits your fancy.

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Above all, drinking and eating outdoors should be fun. Have fun, and make it fun!

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Low Proof, Big Payoff:

Low-Alcohol Drinks are Poised to Add High-Octane Opportunity to Beverage Menus By Katie Ayoub, Managing Editor, Flavor & The Menu Courtesy of Flavor & The Menu, getflavor.com

The warm spice notes from hard cider play well with the tang of fresh grapefruit, pomegranate and a touch of rum in this low-proof Ruby Cider Cocktail, developed by consultant Kathy Casey. Photo courtesy of Kathy Caseyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Liquid Kitchen.

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In this age of the well-crafted cocktail, guests are looking to sample, appreciate and enjoy more than one drink.

But they’re not necessarily chasing a buzz. Instead

of losing that second or even third sale with those guests, progressive beverage programs are giving them lowerproof options. These low-alcohol drinks still fall under the “craft cocktail” umbrella but invite session drinking, allowing guests to enjoy multiple beverages without the worry or displeasure of overindulging. This gives options not only to the session drinker but also to the guest who just prefers a lighter-style cocktail. “Operators need to jump feet first into this arena,” says Chef/Mixologist Kathy Casey. “The profit margins for low alcohol are huge.” Although the evening vs. day part still rules here, lower-alcohol drinks are also finding their way into the light of day. “Aperol spritzes, punches and other lower-proof drinks offer a great way to incorporate a few different beverages into the menu,” says beverage consultant and writer Jack Robertiello. “They can be consumed in the daytime because they’re low alcohol, but succeeding during the day requires the operator to create an atmosphere that makes sense for daytime drinks. For instance, create a low-alcohol beverage list, feature it on the menu and promote it within the operation and by server suggestion,” he adds. “This will help create ‘permission’ for guests to consider lightly alcoholic drinks during the day, at a time when societal pressures make such consumption iffy.” The key to the low-alcohol beverage trend is flavor. Lower-proof drinks have to be as well crafted as their boozier counterparts. “Low alcohol strength is gaining the same merit as full strength due to drinkability,” says ChefConsultant Rob Corliss. “Drinkability means truly being able to sip, taste and enjoy the flavor of a favorite beverage along with your food, as a true complement.” The time is right for this trend, with a number of big influencers coming into play. The first two reflect cultural

shifts and the others speak to ingredient innovation. First up, the return of sociability to the dining scene. This is perhaps best expressed in both the small plates movement and the modern brunch phenomenon. Each moves session drinking into a significant part of today’s social restaurant culture. Another cultural influencer is the seismic shift in what the consumer seeks out, swinging almost violently from value to quality. Just as margaritas made with sour out of a gun are no longer cutting it, a basic white wine spritzer just doesn’t entice the consumer looking to enjoy a low-alcohol cocktail. “As a main form of modern entertainment and social and cultural interaction, tipplers of every demographic really have a desire to drink more variety for longer because they like the experiential act and flavor – as much as, if not more than, the buzz,” says consultant Robin Schempp, president of Right Stuff Enterprises. “For obvious reasons, this offers a terrific opportunity to operators.” Two other drivers come from the ingredient side of beverage innovation. The boom in craft sodas and fresh juices practically demands a build out of creative low-alcohol drinks. Refreshing, flavor-forward and artisanal craft sodas and fresh juices make easy work of a premium base for lower-proof drinks. The second ingredient driver behind this trend is the proliferation of European apéritifs. Sliding nicely between wines and spirits, these classic before-dinner drinks are wine-based and offer delicious bases for lower-proof drinks. They can be as simple as a Campari and soda with a twist or as sophisticated as Lillet Rose with ginger beer and a wedge of grapefruit as a garnish. What counts as a lower-proof cocktail? “The wellmade average cocktail – not the giant margarita schooner but the usual 4- to 6-ounce drink – arrives at around 20 percent alcohol,” says Robertiello. “Strong-stirred drinks get up to 25 percent. I’d say a drink classified as low in alcohol is anything below 12 or 13 percent alcohol.” So that Campari and soda? Most apéritifs start out at 16 percent, but with the dilution of soda, it’s brought down to roughly 8 percent.

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Foolproof Strategies To play in this arena and entice today’s savvy consumer, the execution of a lower-proof cocktail strategy has to be well thought out. Perhaps most apparent: Make the drinks menu brand-relevant. “Think outside the box and allow your cocktail menu to express your brand and culinary perspective,” says Lily Gile, account manager at The Culinary Edge. “Elixir Bar in San Francisco offers an entire category of low-ABV (alcohol by volume) beverages for the guest seeking a lighter option.” Elixir’s Pimm’s Cup, for instance, relays the brand’s craftsmanship and freshness cues with a build of Pimm’s, lemon, ginger beer, cucumber and a fresh fruit garnish.

The Blueberry Press at San Francisco’s Fog Harbor Fish House uses half the usual amount of vodka and is flavored with real wild blueberries for a refreshing, cleansing drink, just right for lunchtime. Photo courtesy of Fog Harbor Fish House.

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At Mud Hen Tavern in Los Angeles, the Strawberry Rhubarb Spritz, with Prosecco, Aperol, spring strawberries and rhubarb, expresses the restaurant’s ties to seasonality and creativity. “For us, the lower-alcohol drinks still have to be about the mixology,” says Kajsa Alger, co-owner and chef of Mud Hen. “And we always try to incorporate lower-alcohol choices for the drinker who’s in it for the social side of things, or who wants to try a number of our cocktails without getting drunk.” That focus on craftsmanship and experience is the most important element for success behind this trend. Menu engineering plays a big part in conveying the option of lower-alcohol drinks to the consumer. “Operators really focused on their cocktail programs are smart to provide consumers with enough information to decide between either high or low alcohol,” says Maeve Webster, senior director at Datassential.

One example is at Acorn in Denver, where guests can choose from “booze free, low booze or high booze.” Clearly identifying lower-alcohol options, or creating dedicated menus or sections, eliminates obstacles and intimidation in ordering.

What’s on the Menu? Tall drinks are an easy way into this trend, but they need premium characteristics. Reimagined spritzers find a happy home here, maybe subbing boozy bubbles for the soda bubbles. Examples include Denver’s Snooze, which runs a Pear Spritz with sparkling wine, pear nectar and Aperol. “We really embrace and promote the ‘it’s 5:00 somewhere’ vibe,” says Spencer Lomax, director of

sourcing for Snooze. So although it’s a breakfast-brunch concept, it has developed a good selection of lower-proof cocktails. “We make it about the refreshing flavors of the drinks rather than the alcohol – but we still get the sale.” Another option in tall drinks is bitter liqueurs mixed with soda water. Indeed, these liqueurs (think Campari or Aperol) offer herbaceous flavors that appeal to today’s modern drinker. Premium cues can also come from the mixers. House-made sodas and fresh-squeezed juices are two on-trend ways to volumize a lower-proof cocktail.

Vermouth and other apéritif wines like sherry do

well in lower-proof drinks, too. At Polite Provisions in San Diego, guests can order the Sherry Lemonade,

The Esquire Tavern in San Antonio offers The Tyrrhenian Sea, a cocktail of Italian liqueurs with mineral water. “Bittersweet with a hint of citrus, you really can drink it all day and into the night,” says Bar Manager Myles Worrell. Photo courtesy of The Esquire Tavern.

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a Collins made with fino sherry, lemon juice, sugar and sparkling water. Or instead, a Jango Rhinehart, a dry vermouth sour with muddled orange. “Everybody is so

mobile and so active, we want to offer them good premium drinks that they know won’t inhibit their busy lifestyles,” says Erick Castro, bartender and coowner of Polite Provisions. Tying the craft beer movement to the lower-proof cocktail trend is as easy as a Summer Shandy, or a German-inspired Radler, maybe with house-made grapefruit soda. At Radler in Chicago, variety helps entice. Look to the Blood Orange Radler Ayinger Brau Weisse with blood orange soda as example. “As a modern German concept, we have a huge selection of craft beers, but the Radlers help us offer lower-proof alternatives while still staying in our wheelhouse,” says Chef-owner Nathan Sears. Another beer-centric, lower-proof drink is the spicy Michelada, a refreshing blend of beer, tomato juice and hot sauce. At Snooze, guests can order a Brewmosa, a craft Belgian-style wheat beer with fresh orange juice. “Beer-based drinks are making a comeback, and the inclusion of nonalcoholic beverage ingredients lower the ABV per serving, adding opportunities for flavor and ingredient innovation,” says The Culinary Edge’s Gile.

Sherry Lemonade, a Collins made with fino sherry, lemon juice, sugar and sparkling water. By Polite Provisions. Photo courtesy of Polite Provisions.

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Expanding beverage menus to include lower-proof, well-crafted cocktails offers a sound road to higher profits. “This is not about replacing your existing drink menu,” says Rob Corliss. “It is about listening to consumer needs and diversifying your beverage strategy. Lower-alcohol beverages can drive sales, entice new customers and provide options for core consumers, while insulating your menu for the future.”

RESPONSIBLE SERVICE CHALLENGE By Trevor Estelle Tom and Harry walk into a bar around the same time. They are more or less the same age, build and level of fitness. Tom goes to one side of the bar and asks the bartender for his favorite drink, and sits drinking continuously for a couple of hours. Harry goes to the other side of the bar and is served by a different bartender. He, too, asks for his favorite drink (same as Tom’s) and sits drinking for a couple of hours. They leave the bar around the same time, but Tom leaves the bar over the limit, walks down the street to his parked car, hops in and drives off. A few minutes later, he is involved in a tragic collision and is subsequently arrested and charged with driving under the influence (DUI). The incident makes the headlines in the local papers the next day and there are immediate calls for renewed legislation to tackle the problems caused by alcohol. The focus is on Tom. Scant attention is paid to Harry, who was in the same bar, at the same time, drinking the same beverage, bought at the same price. When Harry left the bar, his blood alcohol concentration (BAC) was much lower than Tom’s. He caused no one any harm and went home feeling relaxed and cheerful. Is alcohol the problem? Was Harry affected by legislative controls? Why the difference in outcomes? Let us know what you think. Email your response to intheMix@gettips.com. The most creative response will win an iPad Mini.

About TIPS (Training for Intervention ProcedureS) TIPS® (Training for Intervention ProcedureS) is the global leader in education and training for the responsible service, sale and consumption of alcohol. Proven effective by third-party studies, TIPS is a skills-based training program that is designed to prevent intoxication, underage drinking and drunk driving. Over the past 30 years, TIPS has certified over 3.5 million participants. TIPS has certified participants in all 50 states and over 40 different countries. Establishments who use TIPS benefit immediately by reducing risk and creating a safer, more responsible work environment. TIPS training can: • Reduce exposure to alcohol liability lawsuits Trevor Estelle, vice president at the TIPS program

• Lower insurance premiums • Improve customer service and satisfaction • Ensure compliance for state and local laws To learn more, visit WWW.GETTIPS.COM

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TECHNOLOGY

Is This the End of the Swipe? A Great Read â&#x20AC;&#x201C; If You Geek-Out over Financial Transactions By Adam Billings There is a global payment movement happening in the financial industry that will have a profound effect on the way retailers process payments and accept liability. Nowhere will this have more impact than in the four walls of our restaurants and bars. The new standard is called EMV (originally named after EuroPay, MasterCard

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and Visa), and has been successfully integrated into the European model for years now. Each credit card has a smart chip imbedded in the card that allows for a more secure and convenient transaction. So why is the transition from swipe to chip such a big deal, and what does it mean long term?

It’s no coincidence that mobile payments are all the rage right now with Google, Apple and MCX, just to name a few. Disruptive change is usually the result of new or better technology and government policy. That perfect storm is about to take shape in October of this year when the Payment Networks’ Liability Shift takes effect. This will make payment processors responsible for fraud losses from transactions without EMVcapable terminals. Processors are likely to forward that responsibility to the operators at some point, and that is when we will see real change.

At full-service restaurants, this will mean the use of mobile payment devices that are brought to the table. These devices will need Wi-Fi or another mobile network to connect. This scenario of a server, a customer and a new handheld device could prove the most challenging. A big challenge that has yet to be addressed is the scenario of card not present, which many times occurs during to-go orders. In this case, there is no chip to scan, pin to confirm or signature to verify. The operator is reliant upon the information being communicated over the phone, and that is certainly not secure. I suppose

Rather than harp on the how and why of EMV integration (so boring), I also wanted to explain what happens after restaurants adopt the new terminals. It’s no surprise the financial industry is slow to transform, so we will likely be swiping cards for many years to come. That doesn’t mean early adopters won’t be eager to test their new chip cards. This means big change for the front line of your restaurants. Training and educating your staff will be essential, especially if a new POS system is part of the transformation process. The new standard will require chip and pin, or chip and signature, depending on your security level. This means new process and procedures for your staff, and a new learning experience for your customers. Minimizing the disruption to your business will be the biggest challenge. For quick-serve restaurants, this could mean the integration of wireless terminals for mobile payments. While this represents a huge step in the mobile payment

conventional wisdom tells us to solve the biggest problems first, so this will have to wait a few more years. Early adopters of EMV will take solace in knowing that the new process has been proven to decrease fraud significantly. It will be the operator’s challenge to implement this without disrupting the guest experience. The swipe may have been around for the past 40 years, but technology changes and so should your restaurants.

revolution, it also offers new opportunity for the process to slow and create customer aggravations.

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M T H A K I N GD S E ROUN WITH HELEN BENEFIELD BILLINGS

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an epic HIGH SEAS HOLIDAY

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is the perhaps the most fitting name imaginable for Norwegian Cruise Lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold and stately ship, which made its debut to great fanfare in 2010. Its sleek design and cutting edge features turned heads in the industry and included the first solo cabins at sea, along with an astounding array of entertainment venues. With a whopping gross tonnage of 155,873 and a passenger capacity of 4,100 spanning 19 decks and 1,081 feet in length, one is never without the possibility of cooking up an instantaneously stimulating activity. With 20 cool bars and lounges in which to imbibe and with options to feast at one of 23 enticing and delicious dining options, boredom is simply not on the agenda. Top: A refreshing cherry limeade. Bottom: A couple contemplating dinner at the popular Cagneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant.

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Miami-based Norwegian has our number with its globally well-known Freestyle Cruising and wants its guests to have the freedom of doing and dining at their speed, at their whim. And that is precisely what we found so enjoyable and liberating during our seven nights cruising aboard Norwegian Epic.

Top: A Blue Lagoon cocktail. Bottom: Trying to decide among the many choices at the Manhattan Room.

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Every evening was alluring and unique with so many incredible choices. We undoubtedly began our nights with a cocktail – perhaps an excellent Mojito at the private Haven Lounge not far from our cabin on Deck 16 – before moving on to Shakers Martini Bar down on Deck 7, where knowledgeable mixologists impressed with their skills and enthusiasm. Then we’d take in a show like “Blue Man Group” in the Epic Theater – a marvelous blast every one should experience at least once. Afterwards, a late dinner at one of the specialty restaurants was in order and our favorite was Cagney’s Steakhouse. What is better than a full-bodied glass of Cabernet, a juicy filet and truffle fries? I know not.

Top: The Blue Man Group, one of the many top-billed shows on the Norwegian Epic. Bottom: The Haven Lounge, an upscale, lavishly appointed spot to enjoy fine wine and cocktails with that special someone. 40

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Further highlights from our Norwegian Epic cruise to the Western Caribbean included but were not limited to: “Cirque Dreams & Dinner,” where we were treated to a dazzling, up-close performance ringside while enjoying a favorite buttery Chardonnay with Surf & Turf; and “Legends in Concerts,” which showcased seriously talented singers in tribute to Jimmy Buffet, Adele and Aretha Franklin. Spice H20, the adults-only beach club, is fantastic for sunbathing in peace during the daylight hours; evening gatherings featured adult-themed parties with dancing and even NFL games on a massive widescreen. Mandara Spa was so relaxing and Top: The casino on the Norwegian Epic offers a wide variety of adult gaming. Center: Pisco Punch Bottom: Mojitos of all types are always a favorite on the Norwegian Epic!

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we felt extremely pampered receiving several therapeutic massages throughout the sailing. The fun-for-all-ages Aqua Park was a “must” along with a stop at nearby Waves Pool Bar for a cool drink and the best people-watching on the ship. Svedka Ice Bar – the first of its kind at sea – always had a line of eager passengers waiting to don capes with hoods and gloves, for a chance to mix and mingle in super chill fashion.

I’d like to give a special word of thanks to several exceptional people instrumental in making our week so special: Norwegian Epic Beverage Manager Rajesh Rodrigues; Christopher Tacderas, our thoughtful butler at The Haven; Monica Fotache, Haven Concierge; and Wes Cort, Director of Beverage Development at Norwegian Cruise Line. Top: As cool as it gets – the SVEDKA Ice Bar is the only true ice bar at sea. Center: Spice H2O – let loose and dance beneath the stars. Bottom: Norwegian Epic offers breathtaking water park rides. 42

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Crystal Head VODKA

I met with Dan Aykroyd, a principal owner of Crystal Head Vodka, at the W in downtown Atlanta to do a live, recorded interview. Dan was accompanied by his partner, David Brown, and the president of their U.S. division, Bill Anderson, along with their national supplier, Craig Bernard of Infinium Spirits. First we sat down to lunch with Celeste Dinos and members of the IMI Agency team, to discuss the features and benefits of Crystal Head Vodka in their national account customer base. Dan is decidedly Canadian and has all the language quips you would expect, especially the “ya knows.” It didn’t take long to figure out he is a very intelligent guy. We spoke about many subjects at lunch and I was 44

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impressed with his general knowledge of history and world affairs. We covered current events, war, movies, cars, airplanes, spirits, wine and some funny personal stories. He’s highly entertaining, as you might expect, and a genuinely nice guy. He did a few functions in town during his stay, including a big tasting with the local Bartenders’ Guild, before driving up to New York to do the 40th anniversary of “Saturday Night Live.” And yes, I said “driving.” I guess he prefers to drive rather than fly, if it’s close enough.

MR: Okay, I have about eight questions or so. DA: Whatever you need, whatever. MR: You use the highest quality “peaches and cream corn” for your base distillate, right? What exactly is “peaches and cream corn”? And is the corn the only grain you use to ferment the product? DA: We only use corn, and the peaches and cream corn is the corn that is grown for supermarket consumption in Ontario. It represents the original strain of corn that was planted in the Ontario prairie around St. Thomas, Ontario and Chatham, Ontario basically in the 1800s. It’s the same strain with no genetic modification, ‘cause it’s not necessary. The yields are great; they don’t need to do that. And so it is the corn you buy in the supermarket in the summer to eat at a barbeque, as opposed to the bulk cattle feed that’s grown in the same area. So there’s some fields that have the small-kernelled corn fed to cattle; then there’s the big fat, beautiful yellow kernels that they call the peaches and cream corn, that’s for human consumption. MR: Being from Michigan, I’d like to know if it is like Indian corn, with both yellow and white kernels? DA: Yeah, they are yellow and white, and much bigger than the cattle corn. MR: Okay, how about a little information as to how it’s distilled and how many times. I know everyone has their own idiosyncrasies about the number of times, and so on and so forth. Can you give us a little background on what’s going on there? DA: Well, because we have the beautiful peaches and cream corn and the beautiful water, we think that our flavor just going in gives us an advantage just because of the quality of our products, including the water and the corn. We want that taste profile to come through so we did various tests and we found that four distillations for Crystal Head achieved the taste profile we were comfortable with, and on the notes that have been given to us (by Anthony Dias Blue) are sweet, vanilla, dry, crisp with a kick of heat off the finish. So that’s what four distillations do for us.

If we did two or three more, then you might start to cut out some of the sweetness – we don’t want to do that. If you did any less, then there might be a harshness there, so for us, four does it. There’s some that do seven and eight, some that do only one. The still is stainless steel and it’s operated by the government of the Province of Newfoundland Labrador Liquor Corporation in St. John’s, Newfoundland, and is a very clean, super-hygienic facility. And so the distillation process is not that different to other vodkas. But, ya know, it’s just the people that are doing it in the facility it is happening in, that I think steps our quality up to a higher level. MR: You say it is government controlled. Why is it government? To us here in the U.S., that’s odd. DA: Ontario and, in fact, every province in Canada used to have a still because the government regulates liquor sales and distribution. So in Ontario, they had their own whiskey still for many years but now it’s gone; and in Alberta, they had a still; but Newfoundland is the only one that kept theirs. It’s primarily because the government is involved right through – they’re involved in the manufacture of the product: They make rum, screech rum (a dark rum found in Newfoundland of Jamaican descent), they make Iceberg vodka and they make our vodka, and that goes into their government stores. It’s very regulated up there, which is good for us because, that again, is ensuring quality. So they kept their government still up there in Newfoundland, unlike any other provinces. It employs a lot of people – on our line alone, about 35 people. I think it just grows out of the tradition in Canada for government sales of spirits, and that’s all across the country.

“We rely on our beautiful peaches and cream corn, our beautiful aquifer water from Newfoundland, a fourtime distillation process and then a seven-time filtration through carbon micron, and then the Herkimer diamonds as our last little finish.” Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

MR: The water is so important to your process. Can you tell our readers a little bit about it and why it is such a vital element? DA: Ya know, every high quality vodka, any high quality vodka has gotta have that water. So that’s why Reyka, for instance, from Iceland, has that beautiful Icelandic water. We have the Newfoundland glacial aquifer water, as everyone knows. Sixteen thousand years ago, there was 800 feet of ice above the planet (region) – the Wisconsinan glacier covered basically one-half of North America. It melted, and the water went into the province of Newfoundland, which is porous rock, full of lakes and creeks and rivers and ponds. So that water is sitting right there from the original time of the first melt, and it’s sitting in an aquifer right there under the whole province. The still is above one of the main aquifers and we just take it right up directly from the aquifer, right up into the still. MR: So, the still is sitting in the right place? (laughing)

“We are doing something that’s just better. Just a little better than what’s there, a step up from the norm, that’s why we built it.”

DA: Yeah, and its got all these minerals from the original time, from the original melt and that’s what makes it so sweet and so attractive for our process, because we don’t burn up those minerals through over-distillation, we keep those minerals there. They were untouched by acid rain. A lot of the acid rain hit Vermont, New York and Ontario, Quebec; and ya know, you couldn’t catch a trout there in the ‘70s because of the acid rain. But Newfoundland never got the acid rain because the Erie plume of pollution was all blown by the jet stream under the province. It’s, ya know, a thousand miles from the mainland and it just has this beautiful legacy of pristine lakes, pure air and water. MR: That helps give your vodka flavor, right? You like your vodka having flavor. DA: Well, ya know, by law vodka is supposed to be tasteless, odorless and colorless. Well, Grey Goose

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changed all that with their tasting panel – oh, all of a sudden vodka has a taste! Okay, well, our taste is sweet, vanilla, dry and crisp with a kick of heat off the finish. So while defining sort of legal parameters there, yes, vodkas, even without flavoring, certainly have taste to them. And so we’re proud of our taste because we don’t use any additives at all. We rely on our beautiful peaches and cream corn, our beautiful aquifer water from Newfoundland, a four-time distillation process and then a seven-time filtration through carbon micron, and then the Herkimer diamonds as our last little finish. And we just basically trust our materials to come home on the taste. A lot of lesser-priced vodkas, you open them up and they smell like perfume. That’s because they added citrus oil and you can’t smell the alcohol because they’ve added glycol or glycerin – not enough to kill ya but enough to take out the alcohol with and then they add sugar. Now, if you’re a bartender and you know you have a product that doesn’t have these additives in it to make a cocktail with, you’re going to be going to that as a professional, and that’s what Crystal Head is: the virgin canvas for professional mixologists to build great cocktails. It’s also great as a cold shot – as we saw at lunch – and can be drunk alone, but I don’t know who drinks warm vodka. I don’t drink warm vodka! (laughing) I prefer it in a mixed drink or in a straight-up martini with a little olive juice and a little vermouth. And so Crystal Head is really the professional mixologist’s friend. MR: Nice, nice. We have to talk about the legend of the skulls, don’t we? DA: Sure, sure. We were trying to figure out how do we sell the idea of purity, enlightened drinking, being a little more enlightened about what you’re putting inside your body and going towards the clean and the green. So the skulls were kind of the perfect vessel to use for this

product. The Navajo, the Aztec, the Mayans all speak in their legends about having these skulls passed down to them, either through generations, or as the Navajo said, there were star children – that is, extra-terrestrials – that gave them these skulls. And ya know, crystals have a storage capability. We even have them in some parts of our brain. We have piezoelectric properties there – we have those crystals in some parts of our brain, near the amygdalae I believe, you’d have to go to an anatomist. But we’ve got crystals there in our brain, we have crystals in computers, we have crystals in phones, everything today has crystalline properties because crystals have a storage facility just built in, it’s called a piezoelectric property. So, the Navajo used them as crystal balls essentially. They get these skulls, then start to pray on them and all of a sudden the shaman would see images of the future, the past and the present of the tribe there, presenting themselves. And so we thought, what a perfect, ya know, kind of spiritual way to sell the vessel.

MR: No? DA: No. The one, the Mitchell-Hedges skull – the one we patterned our skull on – lived in Ontario near my home for many years, but I never saw it. The woman, Anna Mitchell-Hedges, that owned it, her grandfather discovered it. She discovered it with him in Lubaantun, Belize in the late ‘20s and she used to show it to people. They would come in for healing sessions, and she would open the black cloth that it was under and there was an immediate feeling of well-being that came over everyone that saw it. One of the founders of our company, now deceased, Walter High, he saw the MitchellHedges skull and he said it was just incredible, as he could feel something happen in his whole body, like a tingling sensation and a warmth – that kind of wellbeing. It is now in Indiana, owned by the gentleman that took care of Anna Mitchell-Hedges at the end of her life. He’s looking for the other five now. He wants to get all thirteen of them together.

MR: Sure, crystal ball. DA: Crystal ball, positive energy, positive enlightenment, positive thinking, pure drinking; and so it just seemed to be, ya know, the perfect legend to serve our product in. And it’s fun to talk about, too, ya know, because there’s a bit of a mystery to it. Did they really come from extraterrestrials? Were they polished over thousands of years and handed down, or are they all fakes? MR: There are certain ones in possession of mankind, right? DA: There are three in museums and the rest are privately owned – yeah, eight of them. MR: Did you ever touch one? DA: I never have seen one.

MR: What a quest. DA: Yeah. MR: I’d like to be with him on the journey. DA: Yeah, it would be tough. They were found all over the world. MR: Indiana Jones stuff … DA: Yeah, exactly right, exactly right. “Indiana Jones” references the Mitchell-Hedges skull in that movie. Yeah. MR: What would you like to convey to our food and beverage readers about why it is a good idea to carry Crystal Head vodka? Besides the purity of it and so on, how can it help their bar?

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DA: It’s just better, better than what is out there. I’ve always wanted to do something better or best. I’ve had a number one television show, number one radio show, number one record, number one movies, which I’ve done in collaboration with great people, so we’re collaborating with some great people on this project. We are doing something that’s just better. Just a little better than what’s there, a step up from the norm, that’s why we built it. To do something that is the best in its field. And we are winning medals all over the world. We won in Prodexpo in Moscow – out of 400 beverages, they said ours was excellent in taste; we won the ALIA, (Australian Liquor Industry Awards); and we’ve won the World’s Spirit Competition. So, we’ve got six gold medals and people are really responding to the cleaned-up taste. MR: As an actor, you just didn’t take to making a vodka because you can put your name on it – this is you. It’s not your first time at the rodeo for spirits, right? DA: I started by importing Patron into Canada, and started to look to the vodka category and began to find out, ya know, that glyceride and citrus oils and sugar were added. I thought, maybe we can do something better and clean it up a bit. It’s not so much me wanting another career, because I didn’t need that and I don’t need to work anymore, but it was more for my own personal taste. I just wanted something better to put into my own body and to share with my friends.

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“the virgin canvas for professional mixologists to build great cocktails.” MR: You’ve got a career with this thing – it’s taking off. DA: Yeah, it’s full-time for me. I mean, I have fun doing it. You know what’s fun is you’re selling something people want already. And people like. We’re in almost 50 countries, ya know, and people everywhere are starting to try it and get a sense that there is an alternative to lesser products, and we’re it. MR: Well, Dan, that’s about it. DA: Great. Thanks.

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WINES WITH ALTITUDE (or Attitude) ...

By Edward M. Korry CHE CSS CWE This article is a little different in the sense that it suggests that wines made from grapes grown in fairly high altitude, no matter the region, have a different personality from those in neighboring, lower-lying areas even if within the same appellation. Altitude might be an interesting way to market your wines by capturing customers’ attention using a different angle, one that possibly might enhance sales. It certainly provides a different way of organizing a wine list because the wine styles vary so much in this category that the only unifying factor is the altitude at which their grapes were grown. 50

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There isn’t any single consensus as to what defines “high altitude.” Is it 1,000 feet above sea level? We know for every 330 feet in altitude, the temperature drops by 1.1 degree Fahrenheit. The substantial differences that come with altitude include not only the cooler temperature but also that the swings between daytime highs and nighttime lows are greater. It’s not uncommon to have a 50-degree Fahrenheit diurnal temperature swing, thereby allowing grapes to maintain their acidity. So while that marker of 1,000 feet is a bit arbitrary, it is a good starting point.

The vines at that elevation or higher are in closer proximity to the sun, which results in increased intensity of light, increased strength of UV rays and cooler overall temperatures; and with those areas’ rockier, less nutrient-rich soils, more limited water sources. All of these factors can cause more stressed vines, which place their excess energy into smaller-sized grapes. The grapes form thicker skins and riper pips, creating not only riper tannins but also more developed phenolics, structure and flavor persistence. There may be health benefits from consuming such wines, as their concentration of resveratrol and quercetins are higher. The negatives for attempting to grow in such environments include lack of infrastructure, greater labor costs, risks from frost, heavy rains and in some locations, hail. The reduced fungal and pest pressures mitigate some of those costs. We begin by examining California, the most dominant wine state in the U.S., even though Colorado’s entire wine growing region would fall under this category of “high altitude.” The latter’s wine industry is still somewhat in infancy and unavailable to the broader market. In contrast, less than three percent of the total wine production in California comes from high altitude wine regions. In the North Coast region of California, much of Lake County is elevated. Red Hills AVA, as an example, is located in the northern Mayacamas Mountains and averages between 1,350 and 2,600 feet above sea level, though the majority of vineyards are more than 2,000 feet above sea level. The famed Napa grower, Andy Beckstoffer, has invested in vineyards in Red Hills with its obsidian volcanic soils. The noted Bordelais Denis Malbec of Château Latour fame produces Aliénor Wines, and Stéphane Derenoncourt has been making Cabernet Sauvignon wines for nearly a decade. This appellation has noted wineries such as Obsidian Ridge Vineyards, Sol Rouge Estate, Hawk and Horse Vineyards and Norby and Steele, all of which produce rich, structured Cabernet

Sauvignon with black fruit and spice notes. Sauvignon Blanc also does very well in this climate and is a source of wines for many top Napa Valley producers for their North Coast labels. Wines from Fortress and Vigilance show more ripe melon, with citrusy lime notes and stony minerality, without the characteristic methoxypyrazine flavors of bell pepper. Perhaps it is not coincidental that a high proportion of award-winning wines from the Napa Valley AVA comes from its mountain appellations such as Diamond Mountain, Spring Mountain, Mount Vedeer and Howell Mountain. Elevations reach over 2,000 feet for many of these AVAs, and their wines reveal rich, voluptuous flavor intensity with fully developed tannins. Many of these vineyard sites are above the fog line so receive more sunlight, but their elevation provides the diurnal range and cool temperatures that allow the grapes to fully ripen while maintaining balance. Notable producers such as Diamond Creek, Dyer, Hall and Von Strasser, to name but a few from Diamond Mountain AVA, are world renown. Arkenstone, La Jota, Nickel & Nickel and Sbragia all produce wonderfully balanced but powerful Cabernet Sauvignons from Howell Mountain AVA. From the Mount Vedeer AVA, Hess Collection and Mount Brave both produce some of the country’s most stunning Malbecs, while Trinchero’s Cloud’s Nest Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon reveals a powerful but firmly tannic wine that will age for at least a decade. Spring Mountain AVA is represented by the likes of Vineyard 7 & 8, Terra Valentine, Barnett, Smith-Madrone and Spring Mountain Vineyard, whose Cabernet Sauvignon a knowledgeable wine consumer will find equally stunning and complex. Santa Cruz Mountains is home to one of the country’s iconic producers, Paul Draper of Ridge. Who cannot be impressed by his iconic Monte Bello’s Bordeaux blend? The vineyards extend to 2,700 feet above sea level, and it is no coincidence that they represent the quality factors of elevation previously described.

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Travelling further south to Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands, we find the same influences present but given the cooler climate, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay predominate. This AVA’s initial plantings in modern times only date back to the 1970s, with Paraiso, Sleepy Hollow, La Estancia and Nicky Hahn of Smith & Hook taking the lead. Today, we know the names of Pisoni, McIntyre, Hahn, Morgan, Bernardus, Siduri and many more, for their ripe but balanced expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Europe also has many quality high altitude growing regions such as the Alto

Adige in northeast Italy, with its stunning international varietal whites – yes, including Pinot Grigio and its potentially delicious savory indigenous red wines especially made from Lagrein, by such producers as Elena Walch or at the higher end, Thurnhof and Castel Feder. Similarly, one might find the same intriguing profiles of wines in the Alpine regions of Italy’s smallest region, Valle d’Aosta, or the Jura in France. The red wines are paler and have an acidic raciness to cleanse the palate after indulging in fatty foods, such as a fondue or risotto flavored by real fontina cheese as favored by locals. The wines are made from obscure varieties such as Cornalin, Freisa, Fumin and a grape known as Petit Rouge. I recently had a wine from the Torrette sub-appellation of Valle d’Aosta and found its delicious bright red fruit and floral character was balanced by an intriguing earthiness. It was sublime with charcuterie, cutting straight through the fat and cleansing the palate between each bite. Similarly, the wines of the Jura, such as Jacques Puffeney’s Poulsard, have the appearance of a rosé but the taste intensity of a red wine with surprisingly firm tannins. The white Savagnin, from which the Jura’s famous sherry-like “vin jaune” is made, reflects a style of oxidative wine that is mineral and tart at its core, with a very long-lasting impression. Italy certainly has other high altitude vineyards close to the Dolomite Mountains in the northeast. Its highest vineyards are on Mount Etna in Sicily, at 3,000 feet in elevation, which I wrote about in a recent in the Mix article.

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My focus now includes Greece, the most mountainous country of Europe. The Peloponnese of southern Greece has vineyards on its high plateau, at 2,000 feet above sea level in the appellation of Mantinia. The appellation is famous for its floral and racy Moschofilero, which is readily accessible from producers such as Boutari and Domaine Skouros. The PDO appellation of Nemea (of Hercules fame) in the peninsula’s northeastern area has an elevation of over 1,000 feet. This region is famous for its difficult-topronounce red varietal, Agiorgitiko (pr. Ah-your-geetee-ko). It is sometimes marketed in its friendlier English translation of “St. George.” This is a unique varietal with deep color and a rich plummy nose that has savory and earthy undertones. Its acidity and bracing tannins make for a long lasting wine. Producers such as Gaia and Domaine Skouros reflect the wine’s potential. Try it with grilled or roasted lamb dishes; it is an inexpensive way to have a Greek experience. Another mountainous region in Greece is the region of Epirus, on the slopes of Mount Pindus in central western Greece, by the Ionian Sea. The Katogi-Strofilia winery in Metsovo, which I had the pleasure of visiting some years ago, has a 60-year history of Cabernet Sauvignon. Its Averoff Estate is a beautiful example of power and elegance that reinforces the role that altitude seems to play.

paragraphs. The Torrontés has both balance and intensity, alcohol and acidity, fruitiness and minerality; this wine is representative of much of Salta’s and Cafayate’s varietal expression. The Malbec is almost black and concentrated, powerful yet refined, and is made from old vines, some of which are over 100 years of age. There are many highly acclaimed producers and none more so than Catena, who recognized the potential for quality in high altitude vineyard source wines and how special they could be. A recent experience with Bodega Catena Zapata’s Alta Chardonnay provided the inspiration for this article. Its purity of stone and citrus fruit, stoniness, balance of acidity and alcohol almost belied the new oak barrique-aging treatment. It was so seamless and integrated, refined and yet powerful; all that led me to conclude that elevation was more of a key factor than I had previously considered. Perhaps it is time for more of us to seek such examples for our customers and fellow wine drinkers.

None of the aforementioned regions comes close to the Argentinian definition of high altitude wines. Mendoza typically has vineyards at over 3,000 feet above sea level. But it is the vineyards of the Upper Calchaquí Valley of Salta that might be defined as being in an extreme altitude wine region. There is a vineyard recorded at 9,849 feet above sea level called Altura Maxima, which is owned by Hess Family Estates and is producing wines under the Colomé brand. It is currently the highest vineyard in the world. The winery produces Argentina’s signature wines – Torrontés and Malbec – and reflects the points made in the preceding Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

Interview with The Modern Mixologist,

Tony Abou-Ganim By Mike Raven

Renowned Barman, Cocktail Developer, Consultant, Competition Judge and Author Tony grew up in the bar business, learning the craft from his cousin, Helen David, at the Brass Rail Bar in Port Huron, Michigan. After graduating from college, Abou-Ganim further developed an appreciation for handcrafted cocktails using only the freshest ingredients, while working at Jack Slick’s Balboa Café and then during the opening of Harry Denton’s, a legendary hangout in Fog City. In 1993, he moved to New York City and took a position as the opening bartender at Po, Mario Batali’s first restaurant. Tony later returned to San Francisco to open Harry Denton’s Starlight Room atop the Sir Francis Drake Hotel. It was here that he developed his first specialty cocktail menu featuring several of his original cocktail recipes, including the Sunsplash, Starlight and his most famous of them all, the Cable Car. 54

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In 1998, Abou-Ganim was selected by Steve Wynn to develop the cocktail program at Bellagio Las Vegas. He not only implemented his philosophy of bartending and drink preparation, stressing both quality ingredients and proper technique, but also created several original cocktails for the resort’s 22 bars. In 2002, he won the Bacardi Martini World Grand Prix – one of only two Americans to ever win this title. Abou-Ganim has also won three “Iron Chef America” competitions, pairing cocktails with Iron Chef Mario Batali, with Iron Chef Jose Garces and most recently, with challenger Chef Sean McClain. Abou-Ganim is an excellent writer and has authored two books along with his countless articles in magazines such as in the Mix. The first book,

The Modern Mixologist: Contemporary Classic Cocktails (Agate, 2010), offers readers an in-depth look into spirits and the ingredients available to today’s mixologist, both professional and amateur alike. This entertaining and informative journey takes readers from the early stages of the cocktail to what Abou-Ganim has come to deem “modern mixology.” His second book, Vodka Distilled (Agate, 2013), pays homage to the world’s most popular spirit, the brands, history and cocktail recipes using vodka. Abou-Ganim also has a DVD to his credit, “Modern Mixology: Making Great Cocktails at Home.” He has also created the signature branded line of Modern Mixologist Bar Tools, available now on his website at modernmixologist.com.

MR: Tony, you have been writing about your adventures in the third person using the character of “George” for years now in the popular column, The Adventures of George. How did you come up with the character? TAG: George was my father, who came to the United States from Lebanon in the late 1950s as a very young man. Although he never worked behind the bar himself, his first cousin, Helen David, owned and operated the Brass Rail Bar in Port Huron, Michigan and his brother, my Uncle Charlie, worked the bar for more than 50 years. And it was my dad who convinced Helen in 1980 to teach me to be a bartender. He never visited the places I write about in my column; he didn’t get the opportunity to travel the world before he died, but I have been very blessed to. You see, if he hadn’t talked Helen into making me a bartender, I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t have either, so this is my opportunity to share these amazing experiences. I’m pretty sure he would have enjoyed the journey. MR: You have been quoted as saying, “If I was on a deserted island and they told me I could only drink one thing for the rest of my life, it would have to be the Negroni.” Why the obsession with the Negroni?

TAG: The Negroni is one of those magical creations consisting of three simple ingredients coming together in perfect harmony that happens once in a person’s lifetime. I first experienced the Negroni in 1991 while working at Harry Denton’s and let’s just say it was not love at first sip. A Negroni needs to be courted – “romanced” as the Italians say. One needs to taste it three times before one falls deeply in love; but once you have, it’s a love affair that will most likely last a lifetime. MR: You are always talking about cocktails; do you enjoy other libations when you’re out socially or at home, if you ever are at home? TAG: I love cocktails but I am an equal opportunity imbiber. I drink most everything. I will say I lean towards more citrus and fruit-forward drinks, such as a Mojito or Sunsplash, during the warmer months and stick to more spirituous drinks, like a Manhattan or Just for Mary, in the winter. You will also find me sipping on straight spirit, be it a glass of chilled vodka from the freezer or a dram of whiskey over a single ice cube. I also love wine even though I know very little about it, and yes – real men do drink rose. Finally, although I don’t drink a lot of beer anymore, it is a great time to be a beer drinker as the amazing selection of craft beer available today seems to expand daily. MR: I see you are going to be the director of judging for the upcoming San Francisco World Spirits Competition, for the sixth time. There is quite an esteemed group judging the spirits. How do you manage all those products and people? Last year they saw 1,474 products presented for judging. TAG: All the credit for organizing the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and making sure it runs smoothly goes to Chandler Moore, Anthony Dias Blue, their fantastic team and all of the volunteers. But what makes the San Francisco event so special and so well respected is, as you mentioned, the esteemed panel of judges who lend their amazing talents to evaluate what we expect will exceed 1,500 entries this year. For me it Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

has been a great honor and privilege to be associated with the SF Spirits Competition for all of these years and to sit as director of judging for the past six. MR: What is your favorite base spirit to work with? TAG: Can Campari be considered a base spirit? MR: What do you see as some of the trends that may stick this year? TAG: Oh, to have a crystal ball! Well, I think we will see a return to “less is more,” celebrating simpler cocktails, both proven classics and new renditions. Mezcal will continue to grow in popularity, not just with bartenders but also with those who frequent our establishments and request it. Bartenders are already starting to hate less on vodka, and fun vodka drinks like the Harvey Wallbanger will begin to be asked for and served across our bars. And there is nothing wrong with drinking a Cosmopolitan – when made properly, it is a strikingly balanced and complex libation. Making the bar fun again! We have seen some amazing transformations behind the American bar in the past 10 or so years and our guests are drinking better because of it. I don’t see that slowing down at all but perhaps we will loosen the arm garters just a little, and always remember that this business is not all about the drink we serve but making our guests’ day just a little bit brighter. 56

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MR: What “elevator speech” advice would you give to up-andcoming bartenders? TAG: Bartending is truly an apprenticeship profession. Take every opportunity to work with and learn from great bartenders. Remain humble. Give back. Stay balanced. Like a well-crafted cocktail, a bartender must have balance in his or her life. Never stop learning. Never stop growing. Always leave the pile a little higher than you found it. Never utter the words “It’s not my job”! MR: You’re a regular at the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival, and created the Wuthering Heights cocktail for The Modern Honolulu hotel, made with Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum. On The Modern’s website, I saw that you said, “The dream I’ve always had is to move to Hawaii, open a bar, and have it be open only three days a week so I can really enjoy the life.” Are you having too much fun travelling around the world to settle down to that yet? TAG: Yes, that is a dream of mine, and one day I hope to make it a reality. This is more of my retirement plan than anything else because I think the greatest way to retire is

to be able to do what you love to do, as much as you want to do it, when you want to. It may not sound like a very sound business plan to most, but like I said, it’s a dream and dreams can come true. MR: Is there a tiki cocktails book in your future? TAG: I’m pretty sure that all the great tiki books have already been written by cats I respect and who know a whole lot more about tiki than I ever will. Although, a book about making great tiki drinks three days a week on the beach in Hawaii while drinking them the remaining four days, may just be a best seller! As a follow-up to this interview, I talked with Tony on the phone about a couple of topics that are important to him.

MR: At the time of this interview, you were getting ready to do the “For the Love of Cocktails” event in Las Vegas. It’s quite the show, and for a great charity also. Can you tell us a bit about the show and its beneficiary, the Helen David Relief Fund? TAG: The Helen David Relief Fund benefits bartenders and their families who have been affected by breast cancer. It’s something I set out on a journey to create,

over five years ago. It has been quite a journey (laughing) – to say the least – setting up a nonprofit. We worked with the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG) under their 501(c)(3) exemption, in conjunction with the charitable arm of the USBG. It is not necessarily, at least at this juncture, to be able to assist with medical bills, but one thing we’re really hoping to help with are prescreenings. Especially pre-screenings among bartenders and bartenders’ wives who have a history of breast cancer. It’s very crucial because the earlier you detect it, the better. And then to help with the follow-up: things that are not necessarily taken into consideration, such as the electricity has to be paid, grocery shopping, they are off work and not making money and the rent is due, kids need a new pair of shoes. It’s things like that, that are really the things we are setting ourselves up help with. We can only imagine medical bills for something like this, and they would be beyond our reach at this time. We’re trying to ease some of the expenses that go along with being out of work. So that, in a nutshell, is the Helen David Relief Fund. “For the Love of Cocktails” photo credit: Mona Shield Payne - Back Bar USA / FTLOC.Vegas

“ The Helen David Relief Fund benefits bartenders and their families who have been affected by breast cancer.” Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

She was my mentor. She opened a bar with her mother in 1937 at the age of 21. She was a two-time survivor of breast cancer, back when breast cancer was really a death sentence to most at that time. She was a very, very strong woman; she passed at the age of 91. They took her from her barstool at the Brass Rail to the hospital just shy of her 70th anniversary. She was an amazing woman and I know she would be honored to know that we have started this. Again, the goal being that 10, 20, 30 to 50 years down the road, Helen David will become an institution that will help many, many bartenders and their families struggling with this terrible disease.

TAG: Well, I have been a member for a long time. In short, 1993 was a pretty crucial year for me, moving to New York City from San Francisco to be a theatrical actor. When you tell someone you’re an actor, they ask where do you tend bar at (laughing). This is when I first met Mario Batali. I was the first bartender at his first restaurant, PO. It was Mario who ultimately introduced me to Dale (DeGroff), who had a really big impact on me in ’93, teaching me that there’s more to bartending than I had previously given thought to. It was the year I made a conscious decision that bartending would be my career and I would just try to be the best bartender I could be.

MR: I hope so; it sounds like a wonderful cause.

Moving back to San Francisco in 1995, I had the opportunity to work with Harry Denton again and reopen the Starlight Room. I was trying to find a governing body for our profession. In San Francisco there was a union that I was a member of, the Bartenders Union in Oakland (California), but what I discovered was the USBG. At that time, there was one chapter, and that chapter was in Southern California. When I joined in 1996, it was the only living, breathing (barely) chapter of the USBG. Thank God those guys, Jose and Kana and Fred Ireton, kept the USBG alive. Never in my wildest dreams did I think it would ever get as big as it is today, although I used to always say, it is my dream that

TAG: “For the Love of Cocktails” is something that evolved. This is the second year; we hope and plan for it to be an annual event. Last year we hosted our first and it was just a large gala event at miX, at what was at the time The Hotel at Mandalay Bay; it is now The Delano Las Vegas. This year’s gala will be in February at miX and all proceeds will go to benefit the Helen David Relief Fund. But above and beyond that, it’s really celebrating the cocktail craft here in Las Vegas. Virtually every major city in America today has some type of a cocktail festival or cocktail week. We have Nightclub and Bar, but its really not about celebrating Las Vegas and the Las Vegas bartending community. We have one of the strongest chapters of the USBG and we have one of the most diverse and amazing bartending communities. And this, again, is a celebration of the community here in Las Vegas showing our craft. We really reach out to the consumers probably more than we do the trade. We want these to be events where people come to Las Vegas for three or four days and enjoy our city, and they will have an inside look at the bartender’s life. Actually, one of the events, at Herbs and Rye, is called the Bartender’s Life – I’m guessing both consumer and trade will all get together to see what we do. MR: Sounds great! Wish I could be there. TAG: You need to get it on your calendar for next year. MR: You have been involved with the United States Bartenders’ Guild for many years now, a great organization. This really is the association for professional bartenders. Why should men and women behind the stick get involved? 58

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one day every state in the union will have a chapter in the USBG, and we are getting really close to that point now. But then again, I never would have thought it would become what is has become now. I’m very, very proud of the USBG. I’m a lifetime member; I promote and sing its praises whenever I can. It’s one of those things that is only as strong as the members. MR: They need ambassadors like you to shout out to people, too. TAG: It’s, as you know, a real interesting time in our profession. I spent the last almost 35 years behind bars – 35 years … yeah, wow. But I’ve never seen this type of excitement and passion and creativity and commitment to the craft. MR: It’s everywhere, too – not just in the big cities like Miami and Las Vegas and New York. It’s spreading everywhere. TAG: Yeah! No, it’s true Mike – one of the most beautiful things is that it is not just New York and San Francisco; it’s Cleveland and St. Louis … it’s popping up everywhere.

again, really the first experience at that restaurant is generally with a drink at the bar. I remember the only time you’d see a chef was at closing when they were done and they would come out to get their shift drink (laughter). Now there’s great synergy between the kitchen and the bar. You nailed it – now virtually every level of dining from white tablecloth down to the most casual, they are putting emphasis on the bar and the drinks they’re serving. It’s great; we’re all drinking better because of it. MR: I’ve been around a long time, longer than you actually (laughter), selling liquor since ‘82 up until ’95, and then doing this magazine. This has been the biggest period (of mixology) I have seen in my history of being in the liquor business. TAG: I don’t see it letting up. I see things continuing. It’s always great to push the envelope and see how “out there” we can get. But one of my predictions is a return to simpler drinks that are a bit more approachable, but yet really focusing in on the details surrounding those drinks: the quality of the glassware, the ice and everything – the details.

MR: Even the chain restaurants are highly mixed. They’ve really come to the table. Not just chains such as Appleby’s – I’m talking about the hotels that have auxiliary restaurants and so on. Some of their menus are fantastic. TAG: Absolutely! Where the bar, for a long time, the bar was just an afterthought, almost a waiting room while your table was getting prepared for dinner. There’s as much focus being placed on the bar and the cocktail program now as there is on the food. You’re seeing chefs getting more involved and taking more of an interest in the cocktails that are being served because,

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

ABSOLUTELY from ONE SOURCE: Absolut Vodka Keeps Their Process and Ingredients Close to Home

Did you know every bottle of Absolut Vodka is produced in the village of Ă&#x2026;hus in southern Sweden? Absolut is proud of their tradition of making vodka in a region that has a 500-year-old legacy of producing the spirit. Ă&#x2026;hus is more than just the village where Absolut Vodka is produced; it is home to everyone involved in the making of the pure spirit, its history and future. Winter wheat from local farmers and pure aquifer water are all sourced from the surrounding community

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within a 75-mile radius. Even the iconic bottle is made nearby at the Limmared factory, established in 1741. The glassworks once produced the original medicine bottles from which the Absolut bottle can trace its heritage. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One Sourceâ&#x20AC;? also means that they a put back what they take out, starting with the streamlined energy consumption at the distillery (one of the lowest in the spirits industry), through the great care in reusing or recycling all their wastes.

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A somewhat new product, ABSOLUT ELYX, is making waves in the ultra-premium vodka market. It is manually distilled in a 1921 copper rectification still known as Column 51. Krister Asplund and his team are among the very few people who have the skills and knowledge to operate such a manual still. Together they control the temperature and precise rate of flow during distillation by hand — with every handle, knob and level adjusted manually. This, along with the use of a single estate wheat from the Råbelöf Castle, results in a highly prized, silky textured vodka.

With precise hand-distillation, ABSOLUT ELYX is making waves in the ultra-premium vodka market.

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Interview with: JESSICA HOCHBERG, Absolut brand manager ITM: We hear the term “winter wheat” used in describing the production of Absolut. Can you tell us the difference between “winter” and regular wheat? JH: Since vodka is a pure spirit with nothing else added, and no aging process, the characteristics of the raw ingredients are always reflected in the quality of the spirit. Winter wheat is sown in September and harvested in August. This type of wheat is ideally suited to growing in the Skåne region and gives Absolut its smooth grain character. ITM: What is Absolut’s philosophy about the number of distillations and filtering used to purify their product? JH: Distillation is a continuous process, where the process starts with raw spirit distillation, which later on continues to rectification. The rectification columns were designed and built locally by the distillery team, which is very unusual in the spirits world. No active filtration is necessary in the production of Absolut due to the high quality of raw ingredients and since Absolut is meticulously distilled to a very high quality and designed to contain taste and flavor.

“No active filtration is necessary in the production of Absolut due to the high quality of raw ingredients and since Absolut is meticulously distilled to a very high quality and designed to contain taste and flavor.” ITM: 600,000 liters distilled a day from one distillery takes a lot of water. Can you tell us about the source? JH: Water is, of course, extremely important because over half of a bottle of vodka consists of water. Absolut utilizes one of the most pristine water sources in the world. Water plays an integral role in every single step of production. The distillery, and in fact the whole area in which Absolut is produced, sits above a huge underground aquifer from which water is drawn from

wells 145 meters (475.6 feet) deep. At this level, the water will have taken thousands of years to filter down through the bedrock to collect in this giant reservoir so it is already a very clean product. By using such an old and pristine water source, the water requires less treatment prior to being used. So the purer the water, the less processing will be required and therefore the greater contribution to the quality and the natural mouthfeel. ITM: With so much competition in the marketplace, what would you like to say to our audience about brand loyalty and why Absolut deserves it? JH: Every bottle of Absolut has been crafted in the village of Åhus, Sweden by generations of farmers and distillers. We select the highest quality ingredients – pure winter wheat and pristine aquifer water – to make a smooth, rich vodka that elevates and transforms any cocktail it’s crafted with.

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE

How Low-Alcohol Beers and Spirits are Taking Their Place on – and Transforming – Drink Menus

For the over two decades that Boulder, Colorado’s Avery Brewing Company has been brewing beer, it has mostly been known for its brash, unapologetically in-yourface brews. The brewery has produced a wide variety of beers that clock in above 10 percent ABV (alcohol by volume), including the 17.2 percent ABV Pump[KY]n Ale, spiced with a heavy dose of nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice and cloves to stand up to the high alcohol content. The brand’s 5 Monks bourbon barrel-aged “quintuple” ale is the highest gravity beer in Avery’s history, at 19.4 percent ABV. It’s not just alcohol content that puts Avery over the top – they also brew a number of exceptionally hoppy and bitter beers, including their best-selling Maharaja Imperial IPA at 102 IBUs (International Bittering Units) and Mephistopheles’ Stout at 107 IBUs. But things may be changing. Two years ago the company released the first in a series of low-alcohol beers, Avery’s 3Point5 India Session Ale, with the name referencing the beer’s ABV. Founder Adam Avery told Paste magazine, “There’s a movement toward experiments in subtlety … we’re trying to figure out how to make super flavorful beers that aren’t really high alcohol.”

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There’s a movement toward experiments in subtlety… we’re trying to figure out how to make super flavorful beers that aren’t really high alcohol.

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Avery isn’t alone. Throughout the industry, brewers, distillers, cocktail bars and restaurants are embracing a wider range of flavor profiles and alcohol contents in order to reach and cater to a wider audience. In many ways, these lighter profiles reflect America’s maturing craft beer and spirits industry. When the craft movement first began, many artisan brewers and distillers created attention-getting products as a reaction to the prevalence of light, easy-drinking styles on the market, setting off a race to create “bigger and badder” beverages. Hoppy IPAs soon became the go-to beer style, blowing through the 100 IBU ceiling. Soon breweries were marketing beers with 300, 400, 600, even 1,000 and 2,000 IBUs (though whether these measurements are accurate or even possible is much debated). But today, craft spirits and beers are widely available and the industry has grown by leaps and bounds. Now microbrews and craft cocktails are no longer a specialty beverage for many consumers, but rather the default option. But wider acceptance, availability and consumption also mean that high-proof, shock-your-palate beers didn’t always make sense. A beer with 10 percent ABV is often too potent for a mid-day lunch, and chefs and bartenders are looking for beers and cocktails they can pair with a wide variety of dishes. Rich and bitter is fine for red meats, but what about seafood and pasta? And, more importantly, both for the consumer and for the bottom line, diners could enjoy a few drinks over a meal or evening – no more “one and done” – without the risk of overindulging or palate fatigue. Also, consumers who are less familiar with high ABVs and IBUs have a more approachable entry point.

Now brewers and distillers are looking to new, authentically low-alcohol styles and drinks from around the world, particularly Europe, to create a more well-rounded product line – think ciders, German radlers and Bohemianstyle pilsners. The trend is best exemplified by the popularity of flavorful, traditionally low-alcohol session or saison beers, which have increased their presence 26 percent on beer menus in the last year alone, and a whopping 325 percent in the past four years, according to Datassential’s MenuTrends. And we expect to see even more session beers on this year’s spring and summer bar menus.

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Now drink menus have something for every taste and pairing. Chicago’s Analogue uses emoticons to denote flavor profiles; for example, :-) means “refreshing.” New York’s The Dead Rabbit, which has won seemingly every major “Best Cocktail Bar” award, breaks their bar menu into a variety of flavor categories: Sharp, Ambitious and Fresh. The “Low-Spirited” section of the menu is described as “low-alcohol, pleasant, simple, clean,” with drinks that use sparkling wines, sherries, and ports mixed with citrus and bitters. The eponymous Dead Rabbit cocktail features a quinine-infused apéritif wine, Manzanilla sherry, peach, orange, chamomile and Bittermens Boston Bittahs.

...chefs and bartenders are looking for beers and cocktails they can pair with a wide variety of dishes.

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Restaurants and cocktail bars are following suit, dividing the menu into sections like “Low Alcohol” and even “No Alcohol,” or organizing a bar menu by flavor profile instead of the central spirit. This year’s Tales of the Cocktail conference will include a session on “Low Octane Libations,” noting, “If you haven’t already spotted a ‘low alcohol’ section on your favorite cocktail menu, you will soon.” This is particularly true as the line between the kitchen and the bar continues to blur, and restaurants and food-forward cocktail bars place a greater emphasis on beer and cocktail pairings in addition to, or even in place of, wine pairings. But make no mistake – bartenders take these drinks just as seriously as their more potent counterparts, balancing a variety of spirits, fortified wines, apéritifs, bitters, tinctures and house-made syrups and juices to create drinks that justify traditional cocktail prices. San Francisco’s Nico makes its own low-proof spirit from a sake base for its low-alcohol menu, while Miami’s The Federal uses low-alcohol fortified wines and vermouths in variations on classic cocktails, like bloody Marys (made with agave wine) and mojitos (made with mint syrup lager). Swapping out ciders and beers for hard liquors also means the restaurant doesn’t have to spend $200,000 on a full liquor license (twice the cost to build out the restaurant, according to Eater).

In fact, sherry has grown 22 percent on restaurant drink menus in just the past year. Almost all of the hallmark ingredients used in low-alcohol drinks have grown on drink menus in recent years. Port is up 41 percent over the past four years, while vermouth is up 60 percent. And the apéritifs often used in these cocktails, like Lillet (up 134 percent over four years) and Aperol (up 449 percent), are some of the trendiest ingredients in drinks today. For both producers and restaurant/bar operators, offering a wider range of beers and spirits that appeal to a variety of tastes just makes good business sense. Margins are often high, customers can purchase and drink more with less risk, and they reflect an industry-wide shift towards more personalization and customization. And variety is the key. It doesn’t mean that strong flavor profiles and high-proof beers and spirits are going away anytime soon, but it does mean that they may no longer be the only option, or even the focus, on drink menus. This article has been provided by Maeve Webster, senior director, and Mike Kostyo, publications manager, of Datassential, a leading consulting firm and supplier of trends, analysis and concept testing for the food industry.

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If you haven’t already spotted a ‘low alcohol’ section on your favorite cocktail menu, you will soon.

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Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

in the Mix Magazine

Wine Quiz The Society of Wine Educators’ free app, SWE Wine and Spirits Quiz, is available on all platforms. Just look for it in your app store or go to winewitandwisdomswe.com. It offers a series of fun, educational quizzes covering the five major categories: red, yellow (white wines), spirits, sparkling and dessert wines. Here are this issue’s sample questions. The answers can be found on our website, ITMmag.com.

What is the leading red grape of Burgundy? a) Cabernet Sauvignon b) Pinot Noir c) Merlot d) Malbec

What is the main grape in Chateau Petrus? a) Pinot Noir b) Tempranillo c) Merlot d) Cabernet Sauvignon

7. Which of the following regions produces rose – and nothing else? a) Cassis b) Tavel c) Anjou d) Côtes de Provence

What grape is grown in Chablis? a) Chenin Blanc b) Sauvignon Blanc c) Semillon d) Chardonnay

What Spirit is produced in Peru? a) GranGala b) Tequila c) Rosolio d) Pisco

8. What wine is produced in Jerez de la Frontera? a) Commandaria b) Banyuls c) Sherry d) Madeira

4. Which wine is most likely to show an aroma of “petrol”? a) White Bordeaux b) Soave c) French Gewürztraminer d) Mosel Riesling

10. What spirit is distilled from sugarcane? a) Comiteca b) Mezcal c) Brandy d) Rum

Where is Metaxa produced? a) Italy b) Spain c) Greece d) France

What causes the “angel’s share”? a) Double distillation b) Bottle aging c) Evaporation d) The use of dunder

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

SUPER VODKA – A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L S P I R I T –

Super vodkas are a breed apart. The meticulous distilling methods used give us some of the purest clear spirits in the world. Each has its own personality and flavor derived from its locality, but what they all have in common is super quality. Here is a list of 10, with the methods and ingredients each uses.

USA HANGAR 1

USA SQUARE ONE ORGANIC VODKA

Hangar 1 Vodka is, well, made in an airplane hangar in Alameda, California. It is made from grapes and craft distilled by hand in small batches using justpicked fruit – the skin, stems, seeds, leaves and all. Then a Viognier eau de vie with spirit made from midwestern wheat is blended in to make a perfectly balanced, fruity, “straight” vodka. Hangar 1’s flavored

Square One Vodka is USDA Certified organic rye vodka, made from 100 percent organic American rye without the use of genetically modified yeasts, chemical additives or synthetic de-foaming agents. Square One draws its water from deep aquifers originating in the Teton Mountain Range of Wyoming. The liquid is derived from

vodkas are all made with fruit eau de vies made in the old-world style and tradition. Truly a unique product!

a single, four-column continuous still and filtered only once, through a micron paper filter. The result? A clear and silky vodka with rich rye flavors.

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FRANCE TIGRE BLANC Tigre Blanc is a superpremium vodka made from 100 percent French wheat and locally-sourced spring water. Tigre Blanc is handcrafted in the Cognac region of France in the same small alembic stills used to produce Cognac. Its round, smooth flavor and well-balanced texture are characteristic of the Cognac terroir. Henri de Belleville, a Frenchman raised in the hills of Champagne, was inspired to create Tigre Blanc vodka by his dual passions for spirits and ancient Taoism. The Tigre Blanc recipe has been passed down through Belleville’s family for generations, and the distinctive bottle reflects the brand’s artistry and heritage. Belleville’s interest in Asian and Indian art and culture led to a partnership with the Panthera organization, and a portion of the profits from the sale of each bottle of Tigre Blanc helps fund tiger conservation efforts.

FRANCE GREY GOOSE VX Grey Goose VX is produced by Maître de Chai François Thibault, just as is the super-premium vodka, Grey Goose. VX is 95 percent Grey Goose and 5 percent young Cognac. In an interview with François in our Fall 2014 issue, I asked him what Cognac he uses and why. “I had two options, old or young. Old would have full flavor, great tannin, complexity; or, something that has not been aged long. It would be better, with a delicate white

spirit like Grey Goose, to marry it with something young, with something that has a closer aspect to a white spirit, so I went for a young Cognac. Young Cognac does not have the aging aspects of aged Cognacs. It would be a little more floral and light.” He goes on to say, “I oversee all aspects of the Cognac used. I’m really trying to express the terroir and the central notes of the Cognac, which I like to call the ‘spring’ notes. Very floral, a sense of freshness and a very light stone fruit, white fruit, peach, apricots, very light touch of acacia. Like a woman – very delicate, with a sense of freshness.” I asked François if there is a specific age cut-off before it becomes too bold in color and flavor. “Yes, between one and never more than two years old. We use very old barrels so they won’t express their stringent effects into the Cognac. As close to crystal clear as possible.” A truly exceptional product in one of the most beautiful bottles made.

ICELAND REYKA The Reyka distillery, Iceland’s first distillery, is located in Borgarnes, Iceland. Located 74 kilometers (approximately 46 miles) outside of Reykjavik, this coastal village is removed from industrial life and surrounded by wonderful natural resources. To help paint a picture of how untouched the resources are here, consider this: The CO2 levels in Borgarnes are actually falling. Seriously, the air is that clean. The distillery’s water is sourced from an Artic spring that runs through a 4,000-year-old lava field, making it some of the purest in the world. Their filtration system also uses lava rock – an amazingly effective system. The spirit is distilled in a Carter-Head still, reportedly one of only six in

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

the world. The copper still gives it an unparalleled purity with just one distillation. Each distillation takes up to six hours and yields just 255 cases, a true small-batch vodka! And all this is done while being powered by geothermal energy from volcanoes.

An illustration of the palace appears on every bottle. Belvedere uses Dankowskie rye from the Mazovian plains of Poland and water from its own proprietary wells to create this luxury vodka.

CANADA CRYSTAL HEAD Crystal Head is the creation of actor Dan Aykroyd and artist John Alexander. The vodka is additive-free, which was the goal of the two creators who started the project in 2007. By 2008, they were sold out in four states and needed to ramp up production. By 2009, they were available almost everywhere. The super-premium vodka is made from the finest peaches and cream corn, distilled four times, filtered seven times with the final three going through Herkimer diamond crystals. The unique bottle was designed by co-owner John Alexander and is produced in Italy by the famous glassmaker, Bruni Glass. Why model after the famous crystal skull, as in the legend of the 13 crystal skulls? Pure fascination with their spiritual powers and metaphysical properties. (See more about this in the interview with Dan Aykroyd in this issue).

POLAND BELVEDERE Belvedere Vodka hails from the small town of Zyrardów, in the Mazovian plains of central Poland, where it is crafted in a 100-year-old distillery. Belvedere, which means “beautiful to see,” is named after the Belweder Palace in Warsaw, home of the Polish president.

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Belvedere, the luxury vodka brand owned by the LVMH Group, is partnering with the next movie in the James Bond franchise, “Spectre.” Harnessing Bond’s penchant for vodka martinis and his iconic “shaken, not stirred” line, Belvedere becomes the official vodka of the movie, which is due for cinematic release next November from Sony Pictures Entertainment. (Source: Business Insider) “Spectre” will be the 24th James Bond film produced by Eon Productions. It will be the second film in the series directed by Sam Mendes, and will feature Daniel Craig in his fourth performance as James Bond and Christoph Waltz as Franz Oberhauser.

SWEDEN ABSOLUT ELYX ELYX is manually distilled in a 1921 copper rectification still known as Column 51, made entirely of copper. It is operated by a select few who inherited their knowledge and expertise, which has been passed down through generations of Swedish vodka-makers. Krister Asplund and his team control the distillation by hand; every handle, knob and level is adjusted manually. The copper naturally catalyzes trace

compounds in the spirit, purifying the vodka and adding a highly prized silky texture and taste. ELYX is made in Åhus, Sweden, exclusively from single estate wheat from the Råbelöf Castle, where they have been producing wheat since the 1400s. From seed to bottle, everything is done within a 15-mile radius of the distillery, ensuring quality control and perfection in every detail.

LATIVA ELIT BY STOLICHNAYA elit is the product of centuries of vodka tradition. The process of creating elit starts in Tambov, Russia, with their single source of grain they own and tend to themselves. They hand select an exact blend of winter wheat, spring wheat and rye. After the spirit is balanced with water from their artesian well, it is chilled to exactly 15 degrees centigrade, no more, no less. It then cascades through precisely packed columns of quartz sand and Russian birch wood charcoal, pulled by gravity and purified by carbon. The final stage is a traditional Russian technique of leaving the casks of vodka outside in plummeting winter conditions so that impurities freeze to the cask walls. This craft has been perfected by Stolichnaya and during the freeze, the vodka is chilled to precisely -18 degrees centigrade so the final molecules of impurities bind together, enhancing the effect of ioncharged filters.

RUSSIA RUSSIAN STANDARD Saint Petersburg is located in the vicinity of Lake Ladoga, which contains soft water with very few impurities, perfectly suited for use in vodka. The giant granite basin was formed by glaciers during the last Ice Age shifts. Russian Standard vodka specialists have developed a unique distillation process by which the naturally sensuous character of the spirit is maintained and, at the same time, impurities are filtered out. Under constant control, the vodka passes over 200 distillation stages. Their filtration process includes Russian birch charcoal along with quartz from the Ural Mountains. They also use silver, a very effective antimicrobial agent, to refine the vodka even further. The vodka then goes through a final, unique process called “relaxation,” a costly and time-consuming process in which the liquid matures and the ingredients can be combined with each other. This results in the perfect balance, softness and the final development of the organoleptic properties.

After the creation, it is rested to ambient temperature and bottled under a guarded line, ensuring that every bottle is perfect.

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

MAKING THE ROUNDS With Helen Benefield Billings

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The Mellow Life Dishing Out Their Own Brand of Soul

recently

had

the

original. The experience

pleasure of attending

the grand opening of a

Mellow

new Mellow Mushroom restaurant. This particular Mellow is located on Saint Simons

walking

totally

into

one

Mushroom different

from

walking into another. Some stores have a history where

Island, off the coast of Georgia, which just happens

remnants and historical elements have been

to be my hometown. If you are not familiar with

tied into the design. For example, one Mellow

Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers, you are missing

was a former music store and another was

out on a very eclectic pizza concept. It all started

an old tobacco barn. With original artwork,

with three college students opening the first

different design styles and custom signage, each

one in Atlanta in 1974. Each one is unique and

Mellow becomes its own living piece of art.

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The new Saint Simons Island restaurant was designed to represent the beach, coast and low-country style living with a fish shack theme. The previous occupant for decades had been Blanche’s Courtyard Restaurant, which was loved and has been missed by the locals. The property had sat empty for several years. A huge, old live oak tree stood in the center of the courtyard

and was a focal point of the restaurant. So when the new owners tore down the old restaurant and built the new Mellow, they saved the old live oak and built a complete outdoor seating, bar and entertainment area around it. This is Bo Chambliss’s fourth Mellow and as the new construction proceeded, he decided to plant three more live oaks throughout the property. ITM sat down and visited with Brian Bied, the new general manager, who started his restaurant career with 22nd Street Raw Bar in Virginia Beach. After a stint in the Army, he worked at Texas Roadhouse. He eventually found his way down to Savannah where he served as kitchen manager, then GM for Bo Chambliss’s Mellow in Pooler, Georgia. Brian has now moved on down the southeastern coast of Georgia to open this one. Brian tells us that although each Mellow Top: Front entrance to the restaurant. Bottom: Brian Bieda, GM for this Mellow Mushroom and Don Billings, ITM publisher, at the bar. Don is drinking a Cherry Maple Manhattan.

FACTOIDS Currently over 160 Mellows in 19 states 20 new Mellows are expected to open this year Starting in the past couple of years, all new Mellows now come with premium cocktails, wine selection and 24 draft handles, minimum

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now offers a full premium well and bar along with beer and wine, they also tune the bar selections to the local tastes and demographics. The Saint Simons Island locale, for instance, opened with a 30-beer tap line and an additional selection of 45 bottles. The spirits selection has a few very high-end bourbons, tequilas, vodkas and scotches that you would be surprised to see in a typical Mellow, but that is to satisfy some of the more affluent guests that stream through their front door. They currently carry a few high-end wines like Silver Oak, Stag’s Leap Cellars and Val Du Charron (bottle only), along with their current house wine, Canyon Road. Brian says they hope to eventually settle in with 10 by-theglass selections and four by-the-bottle choices, as demand dictates. Top: Helen Benefield Billings, ITM hospitality writer, drinking a Black & Blue. Bottom: Mellow Mushroom’s huge selection of draft beer handles.

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

The pizza, sandwiches, appetizers and salads are seriously pure, fresh and delicious. Brian tells us food products come in as raw product and are prepped daily. Everything thing is cooked in-house and their gluten free and vegan selections are very popular. I’m not too worried about gluten and Don is not exactly a vegan – his favorite pie is the Magical Mystery Tour with sausage. I love the Greek salad with the famous Esperanza dressing, paired with a sublime Black & Blue (Guinness & Blue Moon), which you will have to try the next time you visit a Mellow Mushroom near you.

Top: A premium well is offered. Bottom: Hendrick’s Refresher – A crisp and delicious combination of Hendrick’s Gin, St. Germain, fresh cucumber, basil, and our fresh agave sour. 76

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With original artwork... each Mellow Mushroom becomes its own living piece of art

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Spotlight On Brandon Wise Corporate Director of Beverage for the Sage Restaurant Group Brandon Wise, the corporate director of beverage for Sage Restaurant Group (SRG), discovered early on that he had a knack for pairing flavors in new and surprising ways. His talent led to his rapid rise to prominence among Portland’s mixology elite during his five years in the city. As the opening bar manager at Irving Street Kitchen, Wise quickly became known for creating memorable beverage experiences that both helped enhance a meal and surprised the palate. His buzzed-about concoctions made Irving Street one of the city’s go-to cocktail bars and earned him the 2010 Eater PDX award for Bartender of the Year. Wise further cemented his reputation for excellence while serving as the founding bar manager of Imperial – one of Food & Wine’s “Best New Bars” in 2013 and People’s Choice “Best New Bar Northwest” in 2014, a 2013 Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award finalist for “Best Restaurant Bar,” and one of Thrillist’s “Best Cocktail Bars in the U.S.” for 2014. As corporate beverage director at SRG, Wise has the unique and exciting challenge of creating beverage experiences across eight distinct restaurant concepts – from farm-to-table steakhouses in Cleveland and Portland, to a beachside fish bar in Oceanside, California, to a Catalan-inspired tapas restaurant in Chicago – each catering to the local preferences of the different cities in which SRG operates. Wise has served as president of the Oregon Bartenders Guild and is currently a member of the United States Bartenders Guild Nominating Committee. When not dreaming up delicious libations, Wise spends his time exploring the great outdoors, reading dusty cocktail books and writing.

ITM: Hi Brandon, and thanks for taking the time to talk a little bit about your work within the Sage Restaurant Group. There are ten different locations and concepts – I assume you work with the local beverage directors to implement programs and menus on a one-on-one basis? BW: I work closely with the management team and the bar staff to provide the best quality offerings and experiences we can for each property. Each concept is so different, so I’m always conscious of staying true to the brand with each menu and each drink we put on the menu. ITM: Let’s talk about a few of your outlets.

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What kind of list do you have there? BW: Urban Farmer’s beverage program is a nice mix of classic and original cocktails, a diverse wine list and a celebration of local craft beer. There’s a certain whimsy to the menu, such as a Gin Gin Mule served on crushed ice in a tin can. We offer a selection of barrel-aged cocktails such as the Homestead, which features Bols Genever, Averna, and a housemade root beer syrup, as well as bottled cocktails.

Urban Farmer

ITM: Let’s start with Urban Farmer in Cleveland.

The basis in classics allows us to offer our unique take on the standards by incorporating house-made ingredients, seasonality and culinary techniques. The cocktail list at Urban Farmer allows us to push the boundaries with creativity while staying rooted in fresh, local ingredients.

push the boundaries with creativity while staying rooted in fresh, local ingredients.

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Departure

ITM: Departure, your restaurant in Portland, I’m sure is near to your heart. It’s an Asian-based menu and your cocktail list matches it well. What influences these unique cocktails? I’ve listed a few of the selections for our readers to see the unique mixes. • Xerxes’s Garden: Belvedere Vodka, Cynar, lemongrass, fresh citrus • Bonsai: Bombay Sapphire East Gin, lemon, Prosecco, Douglas fir eau de vie, rosemary • Hibiki Highball: Hibiki Japanese whisky, rhubarb bitters, mineral water • R ussell’s Reserve Bourbon, Stumptown Cold Brew, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur, honey, whiskey barrel-aged bitters, Peychaud’s bitters BW: We have a strong bar team at Departure and they offer recipe suggestions with each seasonal change. We’ve done our best to celebrate the talent we have by showcasing drinks created by the bar staff. We are working on seasonal menu changes at each of our restaurants, so expect to see some interesting new menu offerings this spring. Departure is one of the most exciting concepts to work with, and of course since I am a Portland transplant, it’s very close to my heart. Our executive chef, Gregory Gourdet, is such a powerhouse in the kitchen that it inspires everyone around him to be creative. It’s easy to see why he did so well as a competitor on this season of “Top Chef.” He’s able to take a traditional platform, such as bibimbap, and through the way he showcases unique ingredients and techniques, he is able to create a dish that is transcendent.

That’s my goal with the bar at Departure: to create multi-

sensory drinks that resonate with guests. One of my drinks that is slated for the spring menu is an adaptation of legendary bartender Katsuo Uyeda’s City Coral cocktail, which is one of the finest applications of color theory I’ve seen in the cocktail world. His use of blue curacao and grenadine to create a salt rim on the glass that resembles coral is as visually stunning as it is complementary to the flavor profile of the drink. That’s what I’m going for with Departure’s drink menu: an experience.

Coral Cityscape: Bombay Sapphire East gin, grapefruit

juice, house-made “coral” liqueur, Commissary tonic

That’s my goal with the bar at Departure: to create multi-sensory drinks that resonate with guests.

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Mercat

ITM: Mercat a la Planxa is a Michigan Avenue restaurant featuring a Spanish “Barcelona” theme. How fun is that!? What influenced the creation of the cocktail list? A sampling from the cocktail list at La Planxa: • G inebra & Tonic: Hendrick’s Gin, orange blossom honey, fall spice, lemon, tonic • Himica Sazerac: Templeton Rye, hibiscus syrup, hibiscus bitters, Fernet • G ranada Galicia: La Pinta Pomegranate Liqueur, Maestro Dobel Tequila, sweet vermouth, Licor 43 • B ebeme: Ginger-basil orange peel-infused pisco, sherry, fresh sour, ginger ale BW: Mercat is very near and dear to my heart as a former Chicagoan. The concept is so strong – a chef-driven, Catalan-inspired tapas restaurant with Chef Jose Garces at the helm – that the beverage program presents an exciting opportunity. We’re introducing specialty ice to our cocktail menu this year with an Artichoke Old Fashioned featuring Cynar, rye whiskey, cardoon syrup and Old Fashioned bitters set on a 2-inch by 2-inch crystal clear Clinebell ice cube. Expect to see a lot more sherry incorporated as well and more savory cocktails on the menu this spring utilizing fresh produce. ITM: I see the wine list at Mercat is 100 percent Spanish. That probably took some guts, not putting in comfort wines like California Chardonnay? BW: I love our wine list at Mercat, which stays very true to the culture of the restaurant in such a comprehensive offering of Spanish wines. It presents an opportunity to engage with our guests and create an experience. By offering interesting Spanish wines by the glass, it allows guests to step outside of their comfort zone and try something new. More often than not, guests find new favorites from dining with us at Mercat. I’ve seen many a Pinot Grigio drinker fall in love with Albariño,

A chef-driven, Catalan-inspired tapas restaurant with Chef Jose Garces at the helm.

and California Cab aficionados leave with a newfound appreciation for Tempranillo. ITM: I didn’t see any sangria on the list. Do you offer any? BW: We offer three types of sangria at Mercat: blanco, rose and tinto. Each sangria changes seasonally, incorporates fresh produce and herbs, and is offered as a flight where guests can try all three. We have three full-sized oak barrels showcased at the bar and can hardly keep up with demand during summer months.

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Hello Betty

A “betty” is surfer slang for a pretty girl, and the name “Hello Betty” is a reflection of the local, eclectic characters of Oceanside’s beach life.

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ITM: “Hello Betty,” in Oceanside, California is an unusual name for a restaurant. How did it get the name? BW: A “betty” is surfer slang for a pretty girl, and the name “Hello Betty” is a reflection of the local, eclectic characters of Oceanside’s beach life. The Baja SoCal theme makes for a fun environment in a beautiful location that lends well to citrusforward cocktails and a diverse offering of local craft beer. ITM: It seems like the cocktail list here is a bit of a SoCal and Mexican mix. I have listed a few again to show the readers the unique ingredients. What influenced this list? A sampling of cocktails from Betty’s list: • E l Toro: Cazadores Silver, Licor 43, raspberry, cilantro, jalapeño, lime • M yers Street Mai Tai: Bacardi, Myers’s, mango, pineapple, orange juice • P epino Fresco: Hendrick’s, St-Germain, cucumber, lime, Fentimans Ginger Beer • M averick’s Squeeze: Lemongrass-infused American Harvest Vodka, orange, lemon, lime • B each Break Therapy: Hangar 1 Kaffir Lime, Sugar Island Coconut Rum, pineapple, lime, bitters, egg whites BW: The beverage offerings at Hello Betty are definitely driven by its beachside location. We have a scratch margarita on the menu that sells like crazy and a frozen drink that people absolutely love. I’m looking forward to introducing some fun concepts to Hello Betty this summer, such as a frozen Mai Tai variation called Last Mango in Paradise, featuring rum, orgeat, fresh citrus and mango puree.

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

Ultimate Beverage Challenge (UBC) was founded in 2010 by award-winning author/critic/journalist/ educator F. Paul Pacult, publishing executive and editor Sue Woodley, and consultant David Talbot. In 2013, editor/journalist Sean Ludford became a partner. For the past five years, UBC has operated Ultimate Wine Challenge (UWC) and Ultimate Spirits Challenge (USC), which are acknowledged as being as two of the world’s foremost annual international wine evaluation and competition events. As UBC judging chairmen, F. Paul Pacult and Sean Ludford have instituted an innovative and exacting evaluation methodology for the careful appraisal of beverage alcohol products, in order to provide unbiased and meaningful results — findings that help suppliers grow their brands. This painstaking, detail-oriented methodology is accomplished in several ways: by working only with the most qualified, world-class judges; serving each entry in carefully-chosen fine crystal glassware at its optimum service temperature; keeping each “flight” to less than eight products to avoid palate fatigue; using multiple round blind-tasting to ensure a level playing field for every entry; providing a calm, clean evaluation environment; and, employing the best back-of-house staff to ensure smooth operation. Also for ease of comprehension, UBC utilizes the universally understood 100-point scale. Entries that score 90 points or more in the first round of judging are assigned to a second set of judges for an additional round of blind judging, to determine finalists and trophy winners. After all the results are tabulated, the highest scoring spirits or wines in each category are awarded the highly coveted “Chairman’s Trophy.” Additional

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accolades of “Great Value,” which recognizes a favorable price/quality ratio, and “Tried & True Award,” which recognizes consistent quality over at least three UBC competitions, are also awarded where applicable. In addition, each spirit or wine that receives a score of 85 or higher in either UWC or USC is provided with a tasting note that records its characteristics and uses. This issue we feature the Chairman’s Trophy and the 12 finalists in their 2015 vodka tasting.

TOP VODKAS

Chairman’s Trophy – Score: 95

Russian Standard Original Vodka Russia, 40% abv

Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation, Great Value Shimmering clear appearance. Dry breakfast cereal aroma is classic. Integrated, harmonious in midpalate and aftertaste. Superb balance from start to finish. A world standard.

Score: 94

Khortytsa Platinum Vodka Ukraine, 40% abv

Score: 94

Purity Vodka Sweden, 40% abv

Score: 94

Spud Vodka Poland, 40% abv

Score: 94

Viche Pitia Classic No. 25 Vodka France, 40% abv

Score: 93

Belvedere Vodka Poland, 40% abv

Score: 93

Boyd & Blair Potato Vodka United States, 40% abv

Score: 93

Deep Run Vodka United States, 40% abv

Score: 93

Ménage à Trois Vodka United States, 40% abv

Score: 93

Prairie Organic Vodka United States, 40% abv

Score: 93

Snow Leopard Vodka Poland, 40% abv

Score: 93

Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value, Tried & True Excellent, Highly Recommended, Tried & True Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value Excellent, Highly Recommended Excellent, Highly Recommended, Tried & True Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value Excellent, Highly Recommended Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value, Tried & True Excellent, Highly Recommended

United States, 40% abv

Excellent, Highly Recommended, Great Value

Van Gogh Blue Triple Wheat Vodka

Excellent, Highly Recommended

Starlite Vodka

Netherlands, 40% abv

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

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Hospitality Executive Exchange (HEE) West kicked off the New Year in beautiful San Diego with more than 100 key suppliers and operators. The event is a unique take on a traditional conference, with face-to-face meetings, networking, education and some fun! HEE West had a great lineup of speakers with Tony Abou-Ganim, Dale DeGroff, Michael Bombard, Tim Kirkland, Kathy Casey, Philip Raimondo and the William Grant Whiskey Boot Camp. The core of the program is the one-on-one meetings, which have brought a new dynamic to the food and beverage industry. HEE has taken a fresh approach, creating an intimate and successful conference that truly focuses on relationships and has quickly become a favorite in the industry. The Exchange is a great way to have quality time while not feeling pressured or pulled. It also provides a tremendous opportunity to do business in a very productive way. Planning for HEE East is underway and that conference will be held this summer. For more information on becoming a select supplier or an invited operator, please contact Jen Robinson, jen@thepineapplegroup.net, 662.816.4426.

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Spring 2015 â&#x20AC;˘ itmmag.com

Claire Bear By Lauren LaViola 92

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On October 23, 2014, Nashville residents Kristen and Joshua Davis welcomed their baby girl, Claire, into the world. Born at just 35 weeks and known to most as “Claire Bear,” Claire weighed only 3 pounds, 4 ounces and spent the first six weeks of her life in the neonatal intensive care unit. She was born with Down syndrome and at just three months old, she had open-heart surgery to repair an Atrioventricular Septal Defect (AVSD) heart defect. As though Claire and her parents hadn’t gone through enough already, Claire was diagnosed with leukemia at just six months old. With Claire being so young, the doctors at The Monroe Carell Jr. Children’s Hospital at Vanderbilt wanted to wait until she was one year old to begin her treatment. After Claire’s first birthday in October 2014, she began her first round of chemotherapy. The treatment plan consists of a total of six months of inpatient chemotherapy in six-week intervals. Each round keeps her in the hospital for weeks at a time. Kristen and Josh trade off staying with her every night and get very few nights together at home, only when a friend or family member is able to come stay with Claire for an evening. Throughout all of this, Josh has continued to work as an executive sous chef with Sodexo in Nashville, and Kristen

has continued to work her shifts at Sportsman’s Lodge in Brentwood, Tennessee. In January of this year, Claire’s primary oncologist told her family that some test results came back to confirm that the predisposition within Claire’s cytogenetics to have acute myeloid leukemia had been totally wiped out. This meant that the little part of Claire’s DNA that made her susceptible to leukemia is no longer a part of her DNA. She still had three rounds of chemo to complete but this was the news they had been waiting for. Claire is now 18 months old and has completed five of her six rounds of chemo, accompanied by numerous IV sticks, blood draws, X-rays, bone marrow biopsies, blood transfusions and feeding tubes. She is quite the fighter and her parents, along with her dog Ranger, are excited for her to be done with this journey and at home with her family where she belongs.

CORE was able to support Claire and her family in several ways. CORE got her an iPad to help entertain her through the many long days and nights at the hospital, as well as serving as an educational tool with apps designed to assist children with Down syndrome. CORE’s Executive Director, Lauren LaViola, delivered a wardrobe of warm, comfortable clothes to Claire and her family, to get her through the next six months or longer, along with a crawling Minnie Mouse (Claire’s favorite) and a Minnie Mouse blanket. CORE was also able to make a contribution to a pre-existing fund for the family to help with their needs. The Davis family is incredibly grateful for the support; they send their love and gratitude to all of those who continue to help CORE “Give Back to Our Own”! On behalf of CORE and the Davis Family, we thank you.

Spring 2015 • itmmag.com

We had so many people favorably comment on our “Wine Dogs California” book review in our Winter 2014 issue, we decided to continue the series with a review of “Wine Cats” by Craig McGill and Susan Elliot. Now, some people are dog people and some are cat people — and then some are both. That would be me: our six cats live very happily alongside our four dogs. Seems excessive, right? But circumstances being what they are, we always seem to have a lot of cats, and we love them!

Our good friend, Kanika Dhawan from Sommelier India Wine Magazine, shared an interview with us she did with Craig and Susan in November 2013.

A BOOK REVIEW by Mike Raven

CHEWIE CURLY FLAT VINEYARD LANCEFIELD, VICTORIA AUSTRALIA

Owner: Jenifer Kolkka Pet peeve: Being locked out of the kitchen when chefs cook for winery lunches Obsession: Keeping dogs out of his territory Favorite pastime: Schmoozing with cellar door visitors Naughtiest deed: Displaying decapitated mice on Jeni’s bedroom carpet Known accomplice: Yertle, the tortoiseshell cat 94

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How did you decide to write about wine dogs and cats? We’d travel to wineries and be greeted by dogs. We’d take a picture with the dog, and we’d look back and every second photo was a dog photo. We said there was probably a book in this. We have now published 11 “Wine Dogs” books, showcasing winemakers’ hounds from America, Australia, Italy and New Zealand. And after years of requests from cat lovers around the world, we have just released our first “Wine Cats” book this year.

Do dogs, cats and other animals in a vineyard help the winemakers in any way, or are they just faithful companions? We feel that wine dogs and cats make for a friendlier atmosphere when customers arrive. Going to a winery can be quite intimidating for first time visitors, and it’s a big mystery for young people. Also, making wine is a lot of work and winemakers often work late at night. Dogs and cats provide great companionship and there’s a strong bond between the owners and their animals. That really comes through in the books.

Can you share an interesting anecdote about a cat from a winery? New Zealand Master of Wine and wine writer Bob Campbell has a very large, 8.5 kg (18+ lbs.) orange cat called Mr. Wu, who sits with Bob during his wine tastings. Bob noticed that every now and again, when he pulled the cork out of a bottle, Mr. Wu would make a strange sound but didn’t make the sound when Bob opened a screw cap closure. Bob was amazed to discover that Mr. Wu actually has a special talent that enables him to sniff out cork taint!

SANDIE FRECKLE

HENRY IV

VOYAGER ESTATE WINERY

PLUMPJACK WINERY

MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA - AUSTRALIA

NAPA, CA - USA

Owner: Heather Brown

Owner: PlumpJack Winery

Favorite toys: Balls and toy mouse

Favorite toys: Cork trees and catnip

Favorite food: Fish Pet peeve: Dogs

Obsessions: Reading Shakespeare and jumping at the office window trying to catch birds

Obsession: Herself

Favorite pastime: Taking office chairs from employees

Favorite pastime: Sleeping

Naughtiest deed: Lying on PlumpJack t-shirts in the tasting room and then scaring visitors when he moves, as his fur blends in so well

Naughtiest deed: Clawing furniture Known accomplice: Butterball Brown

OTIS BETHEL HEIGHTS VINEYARD SALEM, OR - USA

Owner: Pat Dudley Pet peeve: Rain Favorite pastime: Walking with Jack the dog Naughtiest deed: Climbing the porch screen

Spring 2015 â&#x20AC;˘ itmmag.com

DUCATI SEPIA WINE

Pet peeve: The cleaners

SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES - AUSTRALIA

Obsession: Drinking water from the tap

Owner: Martin Benn

Favorite pastime: Jumping on Martin’s back

Favorite toy: The laser beam

Naughtiest deed: Digging holes in the pot plants and using them as her toilet

Favorite food: Jamon Iberico

BLANC

FRANC Owner: Morgan Aanerud

LAGO GIUSEPPE WINERY

Favorite toy: Her brother, Blanc

Favorite toy: His sister, Franc Pet peeve: Being locked out of the bedroom

Pet peeve: Getting thrown out of the house when she’s trying to knead your face

Obsession: Meowing

Obsession: Birds

Favorite pastime: Stretching out on someone’s lap

Favorite pastimes: Hunting, then sleeping

Naughtiest deed: Jumping up on the counter in search of dinner

Known accomplices: Blanc, Comida and Mia 96

TEMPLETON, CA – USA

Owner: Jeanine Mistretta

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TUX

SOPHIE

BARGETTO WINERY

SAUSAL WINERY

SOQUEL, CA - USA

HEALDSBURG, CA - USA

Owner: Bargetto Winery

Owner: Sausal Winery

Favorite food: Deli cold cuts, especially turkey

Favorite toy: Rubber bands

Pet peeve: Getting his tuxedo dirty

Favorite foods: Caesar salad and turkey

Obsession: Welcoming winery guests in his tuxedo

Pet peeves: Dogs and not being given treats

Favorite pastime: Napping on the heater in the laboratory

Favorite pastime: Begging for picnic treats

Naughtiest deed: Dancing the night away at wedding parties

Naughtiest deed: Opening drawers to find and eat food

MAYBELLINE

JACK

DUTCH HENRY WINERY

KENDALL-JACKSON WINERY

CALISTOGA, CA - USA

FULTON, CA - USA

Owner: Scott Chafen

Owner: Kendall-Jackson Winery

Favorite toy: Dry oak leaves

Favorite toys: The small lizards on the patio

Pet peeve: Diet cat food

Favorite food: Anything the winery chefs make

Obsession: Being a professional hunter

Pet peeve: Trips to the vet

Naughtiest deed: Playing with field mice

Obsession: Posing for photos for tasting room visitors

Favorite pastime: Patrolling her territory

Favorite pastime: Lounging in the sun Spring 2015 â&#x20AC;˘ itmmag.com

Trinchero Family Estates Presents: by Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS

springtime Wines & vodka ... why not?

DOWN 1

Region for New York Rieslings

Martini with onions

A Vodka cocktail and also in a toolbox

ACROSS

Poland’s Zubrówka, flavored with ________ grass

Germany’s most planted wine grape

Minimum proof for bottled Vodka in U.S.

Minimum proof for bottled flavored Vodka in U.S.

8 A Riesling grape having this can make Trockenbeerenauslese wine

10 In a copper mug with Vodka and ginger beer

11 Vodka cocktail made with grapefruit juice, aka “very fast dog”

12 One of Loire’s most famous Sauvignon Blancs

15 Fizzy white wine from Portugal’s Minho Region

13 Spain’s famous region for Albarino, Rias ________

16 Vodka cocktail with orange, cranberry and peach schnapps ... fun activity near the ocean!

14 Most New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc bottles have this

18 Could be on a label of dry German wine 21 Made with lime juice, a Vodka ________

19 Smaragd, a dry white wine from the Wachau named for a green ________

22 Famous Australian Rieslings, ________ Valley

20 Region of high elevated vineyard

23 Flavor of Pertsovka Vodka

23 An old Riesling wine could have a ________ aroma

25 Famous Alsace Riesling Close Ste ________

24 Possible birthplace of Vodka, Russia or ________

Region making Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand

17 Famous Sauvignon Blanc region of Bordeaux (“Gravelly Land”)

Check out the answers at www.ITMmag.com. 98

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ÂŠ2014 Trinchero Family Estates, St. Helena, CA

Trinchero Family Estates started out in 1948 as a small family-run Napa Valley winery with one storied brand: Sutter Home. Now in its third generation, the company has grown into one of the most respected family-owned wine and spirits companies in the industry, with over 40 award-winning global brands. As the portfolio continues to grow, Trinchero Family Estates remains an independent, family-owned business committed to quality and value.

www.TFEwines.com

Spring 2015 â&#x20AC;˘ itmmag.com

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