Summer 2015 by in the Mix

Vol. 44 Summer 2015

I N N OVAT E

I N D U L G E

E X P L O R E

Jim Koch

Brewer & Founder of The Boston Beer Company

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INSPIRED BY LOVE WINE MADE WITH LOW INTERVENTION

Intrigued by this wild land hidden from the world, renowned vintners Erica and Kim Crawford believed they could make wines of extraordinary character and flavor. Their labor of love crafts some of the finest wines of the Marlborough and Central Otago appellations.

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The Speed of Change and How It Will Affect Our Lives

Disruptive technology refers to any enhanced or completely new technology that replaces and disrupts an existing technology, rendering it obsolete. It is designed to succeed similar technology that is already in use. The speed of change is exponential. Disruptive and innovative technology is riding the wave of the future. But the future is much closer than you think. Just look at the publishing/media, medicine, manufacturing and transportation sectors, all of which are rapidly and profoundly changing into instant, personalized, autonomous and inexpensive products and service.

The speed of technological advancement is becoming so fast that we may have difficulty keeping up. In seven years, technology will have improved one million times since the year 2000. The perspective of technological advancement in just ten years will accelerate by a thousand times more advanced. As macroeconomic factors squeeze the hospitality industry for profits, technology kicks in. Technology is driving radical changes within the onpremise from marketing materials and promotional campaigns to product knowledge, training, and back-of-house operations. Earlier this year, the VIBE conference had a technology center set up to share some of the new technology that is already available and in use within our industry. We are sharing just a few of the disruptive technologies currently being applied within our industry on our website, www.itmmag.com, under the title “The Speed of Change.”

Don Billings, Publisher

Never before in history has innovation offered promise of so much to so many in so short a time. - STEVE JOBS

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I had been meaning to interview Jim Koch for some time now. We finally got together this spring for a sit-down at the Samuel Adams brewery. Beer people are always fun to hang out with and Jim is at the top of the list. Low-keyed, relaxed and animated, Jim seems at ease for a brewer with so much going on. We talked for almost two hours, most of it recorded and transcribed in the interview featured in this issue. It was just a conversation really, no planned questions for the most part; I just wanted to see where it took us. The outcome is a story of a guy who had a dream to just create a beer that had flavor - real flavor - from superb ingredients and was made in a America. He wasn’t looking for much, but as fate has it, if you make something that good, the people will spread the word. Now, as the top Mike Raven, editor, in the Mix with Jim Koch, founder and brewer of The Boston Beer Company. craft brewer in the country, Jim is an advocate for all craft brewers, sharing his ideas and innovations with his constituents. As he said, “I’ve learned that we are going to succeed together as craft brewers or not at all.” I invite you to read the transcript and get a better idea of what the man and Samuel Adams are all about. My special thanks go out to to Michelle Diamandis and Ryan Faux for their help and hospitality. BizMix is always a popular summer segment, with a wrap-up of the springtime events, parties and conferences. Look for it on page 82. Tony Abou-Ganim, the springtime cover subject, takes his character, George, to Peru in search of the ultimate Pisco Sour. Some readers have asked me why Tony writes his award-winning column in the third person under the name, “Adventures of George” - George was Tony’s father’s name. Katie Ayoub from Flavor & The Menu is back with Cocktails’ Hour, a look at a dozen on-trend drinks that you can use to update any menu. The incredibly busy and knowledgeable, Ed Korry CHE, CSS, CWE, president of SWE and department chair at Johnson & Wales University, gives us an insight into some wines, unfamiliar to most and daring choices, for your summer wine menus. Smoke and Beverage? Ned Barker talks about why we like the flavor so much and how this is used in some of today’s trendiest cocktails. We have a plethora of other good articles from your favorite writers for you to read this summer. I hope you enjoy them. Get out there, get wet and don’t work too hard! Mike Raven Editor, in the Mix

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WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

STILLE DI

PTS

AUS

TEXTAIN S

USA

LED

2015

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INNOVATE 28.

Wine Quiz by The Society of Wine Educators

50.

Interview â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Jim Koch, Founder and Brewer of The Boston Beer Company

64. Smoke & Beverage by Ned Barker 78. Trellis Wine Group celebrates its 10th anniversary 98. Crossword Puzzle by Barry Wiss, CWE CSS, of Trinchero Family Estates

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RUMCHATA FREEDOM BOTTLES Every bottle sold beneﬁts the

The Lone Survivor Foundation restores, empowers, and renews hope for our wounded service members and their families through health, wellness, and therapeutic support.

RumChata. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural and Artiﬁcial Flavors. 13.75% alcohol by volume.

Bottled by Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI. Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA and CHATA are Registered Trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC.

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30 40

INDULGE 24. Summer Dalliances by Ed Korry, CHE CSS CWE 30. Kathy Casey of Liquid Kitchen® creates a sassy, fun, gin cocktail for summer 36. Ultimate Beverage Challenge reviews gins 40. Cocktails’ Hour by Katie Ayoub 70. The People Have Spoken: Results from the 2015 Consumer Wine Awards by Tim Hanni, MW 74. Morton’s The Steakhouse offers new technology to try high-end wines by the glass

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Introducing The Federalist Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. A collection of rich, full-bodied wines made with as much quality and bold character as the storied men they celebrate. Discover more at FederalistWines.com

ÂŠ Terlato Wines 2015, Lake Bluff, IL 60044

a wine with principle

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EXPLORE 14.

he Adventures of George: T The Pisco Sour by Tony Abou-Ganim

22.

aking the Rounds With Helen M Benefield Billings — Sunset Cocktails

32.

aking the Rounds With Helen M Benefield Billings — The Alchemy of Food and Drink

76. Lesser-Known Global Spirits Take the Drink Menu to the Next Level by Maeve Webster and Mike Kostyo 82. BizMix — A recap of this past spring’s events, parties and conferences

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Tony Abou-Ganim, The Modern Mixologist, is an accomplished bar chef and consultant who has created several original cocktail recipes including the Cable Car, Sunsplash and Starlight. He has recently authored his second book, Vodka Distilled (Agate Surrey).

Ned Barker is a hotel industry veteran and principal of Grill Ventures Consulting, Inc. (www.GrillVC.com). Specializing in F&B, GVC works with both hotel and restaurant companies. GVCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work ranges from full concept development to operations/marketing review and analysis, to special one-off project assignments.

PUBLISHER DON BILLINGS E D I TOR I A L A N D D E S I GN E D I TO R M ic h a e l R ave n D E S I G N E D B Y C o n n ie G u e s s , ThinkWorks Creative COPY EDITOR & PROOFREADER Christine Neal A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R C e le s t e D in o s ASSOCIATE EDITOR Helen Benefield Billings A DV E RT I S I N G S A L E S, m i ke @ I TMm ag . co m

Edward Korry is an associate professor and chair of the Beverage & Dining Service Department in the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI. Edward carries many certifications, as well as being the president of the Society of Wine Educators and an executive board member of the U.S. Bartenderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guild Master Accreditation program. Adam Billings is the director of Creative, Technology and Innovation at iMi Agency, a full service marketing agency in the hospitality industry. He manages adult beverage programs for chain restaurant, hotel and concession clients.

E D I TOR I A L A N D BU S I N E S S OFFIC E 1 1 9 6 B u c k h e a d C ro s s in g Wo o d s t o c k , G A 3 0 1 8 9 7 7 0 .9 2 8 .1 9 8 0 F a x 7 7 0 .5 1 7 .8 8 4 9 m i ke @ I T Mm a g . c o m / i n t h e M i x M a g a zine .co m

in the Mix is exclusively operated and owned by Incentive Marketing Inc. Submissions: Incentive Marketing Inc. assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs.

Travel and hospitality industry writer Helen Benefield Billings has been with in the Mix since its inception in 2004. Helen lives in her native childhood home of Sea Island, GA, when not travelling or attending industry functions with her husband Don.

Visit our website, intheMixMagazine.com, for guidelines on how to submit inquiries or contact our editors.

Katie Ayoub is the managing editor of Flavor & The Menu. She also owns Katie Ayoub & Associates, and can be contacted at katie.ayoub@gmail.com.

Maeve Webster is the senior director and Mike Kostyo is the publications manager of Datassential, a leading consulting firm and supplier of trends, analysis and concept testing for the food industry.

L a r r y M c G i n n , P ar tn e r C e l e s t e D i n o s , P a r tn e r D o n B i l l i n g s , Fo u n d in g Pa r tn e r

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The Adventures of George by Tony Abou-Ganim

George decided he wanted to go see the Vietnam Veterans Memorial wall. It had been several years since he had visited the nation’s capital and he always loved springtime in Washington, D.C. After arriving and checking into his hotel, George realized that he was in the city where one of his favorite chefs, José Andrés, operated several restaurants. As it turned out, José had recently opened a new Peruvian restaurant called China Chilcano, so George decided that would be his dinner destination. Being very familiar with some of the chef’s other establishments, such as Jaleo and China Poblano, George was very excited to experience José’s latest endeavor. He arrived fairly early, yet the bar was already filling up with D.C.’s after-work crowd. He secured a seat at the bar and was immediately greeted by the attentive woman behind the stick.

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“Hi! My name is Mayu. What can I get for you?” she inquired. George replied, “Well, it’s my first time here. What should I drink?” “You have to try a Chilcano. It’s a classic Peruvian drink made of pisco, fresh lime, Amargo Chuncho bitters and ginger ale. We even named the restaurant after it!” “Sounds delicious,” he declared, “and I’ll also take a look at a food menu please.” As Mayu fixed his drink, George perused the dinner menu and was intrigued by the multicultural fusing of Peru, China and Japan. He settled on the Ceviche Clasico La Mar to start, followed by a salad consisting

of hearts of palm and fried plantain, called Ensalada de Chonta. For his entrée, he went with what was touted as “Peru’s most precious dish,” Aji de Gallina – chicken stew served in a spicy, nutty cheese sauce. “Here’s your Chilcano, and since it’s your first visit, I took the liberty of ordering you some fried plantain chips with Salsa Criolla. Enjoy.” George found the Chilcano to be cool and refreshing, with a perfect balance of sweet and tart supporting the floral notes of the pisco and the unusual spice of the Amargo Chuncho bitters. The drink also happened to go wonderfully with the fried plantain chips.

“Well?” Mayu asked.

“Amazing!” he declared, as he placed his dinner order.

“That’s a lot of food; can I make you another Chilcano or maybe a Pisco Sour?” she solicited. “Never had a Pisco Sour before; sounds interesting. I’ll try one,” George pronounced. As the meal began, George soon realized that he had indeed ordered a lot of food, but it was so good he couldn’t seem to stop eating. One Pisco Sour turned into three, as he took the last bite of his Aji de Gallina.

“So I must say, I have fallen in love tonight with the Pisco Sour and it is such a treat to meet the young lady who makes this fantastic pisco,” he declared. “Thank you so much for your kind words. The Pisco Sour is the national drink of Peru and a true celebration of the Peruvian culture and people,” she explained. “If you really want to learn about the magic that is pisco, I’m taking a group of bartenders from Portland to Peru next week – I think you should join us.” Well, George did not need to be asked twice. He exchanged contact information with Melanie, thanked Mayu for a wonderful evening, and left with visions racing through his mind of his upcoming adventure to discover the wonders of Peruvian pisco.

“Nice job!” Mayu pronounced as she cleared his empty plate. “One more Pisco Sour?” “Sure. These are wonderful, almost like drinking a cloud,” he answered quickly. “How do you make them?” “We use Macchu Pisco, fresh lime, sugar, egg whites and the Amargo Chuncho bitters,” Mayu explained. “The woman who makes Macchu Pisco, Melanie Asher, is sitting at the end of the bar, if you would like to meet her.” “I would love that,” declared George, “but please send her a Pisco Sour from me first.” Mayu led George to the end of the bar and introduced him to Melanie, who invited him to join her. Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Less than a week later, George landed in Lima, Peru where he met Melanie and a group of bartenders from Portland. Getting in late, they headed straight to the hotel, as tomorrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trip would begin early. The next morning they all loaded up in a coach that would be their transport for the next several days. First stop on the journey was Canete, a town which is part of the Lima region, to harvest the Italia grapes used to make Nusta mosto verde pisco. Then they headed to Chincha, which is also in the Ica region, for a lunch of sopa seca, or dry soup, which is spaghetti accompanied by hen along with glasses of La Diabla Pisco. They then visited the grape vines of the Mollar grape of Ernestoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farm and visited the gravity press employed for doing a first grape pressing for the La Diablada. They drank Chilcanos and watched local dancers do a Peru-Afro performance of what is called Festejo, or the celebration. George was exhausted and ready when Melanie announced it was time to head to the hotel.

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The next morning, Melanie had arranged a dune buggy tour in the tallest white sand dunes in the world, in Ica surrounding the oasis Huacachina. It was an amazing yet rather tumultuous ride and afterwards, everyone was more than ready for some Cuzquena beers at the nearby backpackers’ hangout. Next stop was their much-anticipated visit to the Macchu Pisco distillery in Ica, where Melanie produces the wonderful pisco that George first experienced in his Pisco Sour at China Chilcano. He had the opportunity, since they were currently distilling, to try the fresh Pisco Quebranta right off the still. George learned that the new distillate was referred to as chicharrón, as it had a slightly smoky, fried pork aroma. He also learned that by law, Peruvian pisco must rest or age for a minimum of three months to allow these aromas and tastes to mellow. George also got to try the fresh Italia grape, which is called cachina while it is still fermenting. They thanked the

distillery manager for the tour and tasting, got loaded into the coach and headed to the Pisco Boulevard for lunch. The Pisco Boulevard along the touristic Pisco Route (Ruta del Pisco) is a collection of artisanal bodegas and was where lunch at la Olla de Juanita was planned. They were served a virtual feast consisting of delicious pallares verdes (green lima beans) with avocado salad followed by Arroz con Pato y Papa a la Huancaina (duck and green rice with yellow pepper sauce over potatoes) and drank the wonderful pisco produced by Tres Generaciones and more Cuzquena beer. After that hearty meal, George was ready to take a good siesta to get ready for the Jarana, or party, they were to attend that evening. The celebration, Cierre de campaña, was in honor of the closing of Macchu Pisco’s harvest season and revels in the closing of one chapter and the beginning of the next: the distillation of the wine.

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After a much-needed nap, George was rested and excited for the evening festivities. When they arrived at the Jarana, Melanie led them to a large, open-air stone tank where several people were already stomping on grapes with their bare feet. They were instructed to remove their shoes and socks, roll up their pants and join in the revelries. It turns out this was a traditional feet pressing and they were pressing the Italia grapes that George’s group had harvested the day before. To keep everyone’s spirits in such a festive mood, they were served a drink called Perfecto Amor, which turned out to be combination of pisco and the sweet grape juice that had just been pressed. Yummy indeed! All the time a band played and people drank! The Jarana was taking place at the artisanal bodega of Mocho Benavides, which Melanie explained she contracts to make Macchu Pisco. It was now time for dinner. The first course was something called causa, a dish of mashed Peruvian potato shaped in a roll with chicken and served with delicious Pisco Sours. That was followed by the main course, adobo de chancho, which is a simple but wonderful pork stew, and more Pisco Sours. The band played and everyone danced

and drank celebratory glasses of pisco until late into the evening. Following the celebration, the after-party was at the bronze statue tribute to the Bruja de Cachiche (the good witch of Ica who cured a politician’s stutter and in commemoration of her, he built this statue for visitors to ask wishes from her). They all toasted the good witch and poured her some pisco at the foot of her statue as a contribution, a Peruvian tradition of offering Pachamama (Mother Earth) our gratitude. Everyone loaded back into the coach, passed around a bottle of La Diabla Pisco and slowly, one by one, most of the group fell asleep. Melanie informed George she had one more surprise for him. As they entered town, there was still a lot of activity and Melanie asked the driver to pull over at a bus stop. Melanie took George into a small, makeshift open-air restaurant where they had a traditional, late night meal consisting of an exotic chicken soup with the embryonic sack, called madre (mother, in slang). George found it to be interesting to say the least, but also very tasty although he did need a large bottle of Cuzquena beer to wash it all down. Afterwards, he was more than ready for a good night’s sleep!

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

The next morning everyone slept in before a quick breakfast and getting packed and loaded into the coach for the long ride back to Lima. George had booked a redeye out that evening but Melanie had promised a big night in Lima to send him off. The first stop was the Maury Hotel, to meet a bartender named Eloy and have a couple of his Pisco Sours. It turns out that Eloy has worked at the Maury Hotel for 54 years and had made Pisco Sours for Ernest Hemingway. The Maury Hotel, one of the oldest drinking establishments in Peru, is where the Pisco Sour tradition has been preserved after the Morris bar closed with the passing of Victor Morris, the American who invented the Pisco Sour. Eloy’s Pisco Sours were amazing, and George felt they might have tasted even a little bit better drinking them in this historic bar. Next, George and the crew headed to dinner at a Peruvian creole food restaurant, Brujas de Cachiche, specializing in pisco and traditional Peruvian food. They

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made a quick stop at the bar, which boasts the largest collection of piscos in Peru, with many dating back to the 1980s. The apéritif was a Coca Sour – pisco macerated in coca leaves, which is apparently totally legal in Peru. The group was then escorted to the private wine cellar where they were surrounded by botijas, the traditional ceramic vessels that were used to store and transport pisco. Here they had ceviche, conchas a la parmesan (sea scallops covered in parmesan cheese) and lomo saltado (filet mignon prepared wok style with tomatoes and peppers, served with potatoes and rice), and more Pisco Sours. The evening had to come to an end, unfortunately, as George had a plane to catch but Melanie first poured one last glass of La Diabla. They raised their glasses and she made a simple toast, “To new friends! Salud!” George said his goodbyes and headed to the airport with a full stomach and a happy glow. He knew he would miss his new friends but always cherish his fond memories of the time they spent in this very special place.

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MAKING THE ROUNDS With Helen Benefield Billings

SUNSET COCKTAILS Spring and summer are the perfect times to visit to The Ritz-Carlton in Naples, Florida. What better way to usher in the warm weather season than with cocktails overlooking the Gulf of Mexico at sunset, in the wildly popular Gumbo Limbo? Gumbo Limbo’s signature cocktail of choice is aptly named the “Naples Sunset.” It is perfect for sipping and soaking up the chill, and the oh-so desired atmosphere of this storied resort.

NAPLES SUNSET RECIPE: 1 ½ oz light rum ¾ oz

peach schnapps

Equal parts orange juice and pineapple juice Splash of grenadine

METHOD: Mix light rum and peach schnapps together in a hurricane glass. Add equal parts orange juice and pineapple juice. Add a splash of grenadine to the top of the glass. Shake and garnish with a piece of sugar cane, pineapple and mint sprig.

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Find your flavor at sevendaughters.com Moscato • White Blend • Chardonnay Pinot Noir • Red Blend • Cabernet Sauvignon 23

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Summer Dalliances By Ed Korry, CHE, CSS, CWE, president of SWE and department chair at Johnson & Wales University Hopefully, the sun is out and the dog days of the summer are upon us as you read this article. I don’t know about you, but from a psychological and gustatory perspective, I do prefer lighter and more refreshing wines during the summer. If I am not sipping whites and rosés at this time of year, the summer is not only gloomy, it’s in recession. It’s a time that many more of us are relaxed and willing to be more adventurous. Americans are also more willing to try unfamiliar white wines than reds. This article will hopefully gear you to a better ability to have your staffs suggest and sell unfamiliar or daring choices of this style of wine to your customers, potentially offering them a new great experience.

Familiar to Unfamiliar Not enough of us enjoy what is arguably the noblest of white wine varietals – Riesling – and it may have to do with the reputation that it stems from long ago experiences with Blue Nun, Black Tower, Black Cat, etc. Rieslings, with bracing acidity, from Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe and the Pfalz produced by many German wineries, have the capacity to give you an electrifying experience, waking you from your summer slumber and making those crab cakes or fish tacos pop in your mouth. But Rieslings from Germany aren’t the only ones to cause such a reaction. Try a Riesling from Kamptal or Kremstal in Austria, and you’ll see what I am referring to. They also have that wonderful minerally character that seems to pair so well with shellfish. 24

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For an encore, try a Riesling from the Clare Valley or Eden Valley from South Australia. They have a limeflavored acidity that accompanies all kinds of foods, including shrimp cooked on the “barbie.” They’re great accompaniments to Indian spices, Chinese and Middle Eastern cuisines and vegetarian dishes. And don’t think Americans aren’t in the game. Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery from the Finger Lakes AVA in New York has won three international wine competitions in the past six months as Best of Show for their semi-dry Riesling. There are many producers having great success, including Chateau Ste Michelle from Washington State and Elk Cove from Oregon. From the more familiar, let us go to a less familiar varietal, Furmint, which comes from Hungary. Furmint is the base varietal to the world-renowned sweet Tokaji wines, but leading producers are now making delicious dry, juicy, full-bodied, bright apricot and pear and nut-scented dry wines. For those who enjoy Chardonnay and Viognier, these wines will be most appreciated. Many producers vinify Furnint like Chardonnay, with lees treatment and oak aging. Producers such Royal Tokaji and Oremus, owned by Vega Sicilia, are well worth seeking out.

Unfamiliar and Daring Italian Heading further south in Italy, we are witness to a strikingly apparent white wine revolution that has transformed dry whites from being rather insipid, with little or no oxidized flavors, to vibrant, aromatic and balanced whites. Who but wine geeks knows about Kerner? While created in Germany as a cross between Trollinger and Riesling, and at one time one of the three most planted varietals in Germany due to its frost resistance, it never quite reached the apogee of quality that the Alto Adige in northern Italy provides. These wines are stunning with bracing mouth-wateringly acidity, lovely floral and tropical mango, peach and grapefruit undertones with more weight and depth than Rieslings. Abbazia di Novacella is a producer that delivers such a wine and it’s a great accompaniment to cuisines listed above and cold pasta salads. Examples of today’s innovative and delicious Italian white wines are too numerous to mention, but must include a Soave Classico renaissance made from the

Garganega variety, which offers tangy acidity with nutty and floral elderflower notes. Producers such as Inama or Pieropan are worth seeking out. One recent discovery includes a variety known as Pecorino, a term most of us associated with the sheep cheeses of Tuscany and Sardinia. This varietal, from the Marche and Abbruzzo Adriatic coast regions, offers a contrast of richness and tartness, ripe aromas of fruit, almonds, ginger and white pepper, counterbalanced by minerality. Try a Podere Castorani Amorino Abruzzo Superiore or a Cataldi Madonna, who is pioneer in this varietal. Travelling to the western coastline of Campania, we encounter some delicious white wines, particularly the Fiano di Avellino, which is inland in fairly high elevation nestled in volcanic soils. This white variety is made in different styles, from straightforward with lovely acidity to complex, richly textured, aromatic wines with underlying smoky and mineral notes. The famed Mastroberardino and the Feudi di San Gregorio are widely available. I recently enjoyed a long forgotten, 10year old Terredora Fiano di Avellino from my cellar that was an extraordinary surprise with its youthful acidity, balanced complexity of ripe fruit and rich texture.

Greek Game Changers The surge of interest in this country among sommeliers for Greek varietals is, in large measure, due to one person’s efforts, Sofia Perpera, the lead for the Greek Wine Bureau for the U.S. She introduced not only sommeliers but also wine writers and educators to these wonderful Greek offerings, including but not restricted to Assyrtiko, Malagouzia and Moschofilero. The Assyrtiko wines from the island of Santorini are the kind of wines that would appeal to Chablis lovers. They are bone dry in most cases, unless deliberately made in a dessert wine style, having very bright acidity and delicate floral and savory notes, with a persistent minerally character. Paris Sigalas, Gaia Estate among others are readily available in major markets. The Malagouzia (also spelled as Malagousia) was rescued from extinction by Vangelis Gerovassiliou and provides a citrus, peach and beautiful floral and savoriness as a lovely summer food accompaniment. Producers such

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

as Gerovassiliou and Alpha Estate are available in the U.S. Most prominent in the import market are the Moschofileros emanating particularly from Mantinea in the Peloponnese. They vary considerably in expression but my favorites have floral rose and violet notes, and spiciness reminiscent of some Gewurztraminers but with tangier acidity. This is a can be a stand-alone apéritif wine or, again due to its acidity, a great food wine. Boutari or Skouros are two of many fine producers of this varietal. Opa!

‘Tis the Season for Pink Americans have finally woken up to the pleasures of dry rosé wines as delicious accompaniments to a wide range of foods, especially in the summer. The explosive growth of more than 40 percent annually of rosé wines in the U.S. may be due to the influence of Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt’s purchase of Chateau Miraval in the Côtes de Provence, but more likely that the ancient tradition has persisted for a very good reason: They can be delicious. There are two ways of making rosé wines, excluding blending of red and white wines – a practice forbidden in the EU except for rosé Champagne. One method is the direct press of red grapes such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault, all prominent in the south of France

and Spain, which results in a very pale colored pink wine and is predominant in Provence rosé wines. The other method is called “saignée” (bleeding), in which the juice is macerated with the grape skins for several hours or more. This method provides more color and structure. They can have both depth and complexity, and most are marked by bright red and stone fruit with floral notes. While I can particularly relate best to the rosés of Provence and the Southern Rhône, I remember decades ago trying a Heitz Cellar Napa Valley Grignalino rosé and being so delighted and impressed that I have been a fan ever since. Its crisp acidity with lovely red fruit and floral character is entrancing and a perfect accompaniment to summer offerings. The deeper colored rosé wines from Tavel in the southern Rhône, such those of Chateau d’Aqueria or those of Domaine du Joncier from neighboring Lirac, will convert any serious wine lover or novice to the pleasures of such wines. The Navarra DO of Spain is well known for its rosados, which are made primarily from Grenache but may have Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Tempranillo as part of the blend. If you haven’t had the pleasure, find Campos de Enanzo Garnacha Rosado, Julian Chivite’s Gran Feudo Rosado or Vega Sindoa’s Rosado, for under $10 retail. Another advantage of rosé wines is that they can be enjoyed by a several guests at a table who are having very different meals. It relieves the host from the pressures of ordering “the right wine” for everyone – not that there is such a thing, but these come very close! Do your guests a favor this summer: Offer them daring and adventurous wines to enjoy, and the payback will be all the greater because it will help make for a memorable experience.

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SPARKLING BLACKBERRY CAIPIRINHA 1 oz cachaca ½ lime, quartered 3 fresh blackberries 2 teaspoons sugar Santa Margherita Sparkling Rosè SUMMER BLUSH 1 oz white rum 1 oz fresh lime juice 1 oz simple syrup 3 chunks of fresh watermelon 10 fresh mint leaves Santa Margherita Sparkling Rosè

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SANTA MARGHERITA ROSÈ MAKES YOUR SUMMER COCKTAILS SPARKLE

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WINES

Wine Quiz The Society of Wine Educators’ free app, SWE Wine and Spirits Quiz, is available on all platforms. Just look for it in your app store or go to winewitandwisdomswe.com. It offers a series of fun, educational quizzes covering the five major categories: red, yellow (white wines), spirits, sparkling and dessert wines. Here are this issue’s sample questions. The answers can be found on our website, ITMmag.com.

1. W hich of the following is a “noble grape” of Alsace? a) Pinot Blanc b) Riesling c) Chasselas d) Chardonnay

What type of technique is “pumping over”? a) Crushing b) Cap Management c) Pressing d) Temperature Control

What grape is used in Bourgueil? a) Pinot Noir b) Malbec c) Cabernet Franc d) Carignan

What is Morillon? a) Roussanne b) Sauvignon Blanc c) Chenin Blanc d) Chardonnay

Which of the following is a sparkling wine? a) Saumur b) Graves de Vayres c) Coteaux du Vendômois d) Schilcher

8. What wine making technique can be used to avoid tartrates? a) Débourbage b) Cold Stabilization c) Malolactic Fermentation d) Bâtonnage

What gives red wines their red or purple hue? a) Resveratrol b) Flavonols c) Anthocyanins d) Tannins

9. What region is known for “pot still whiskey”? a) Bourbon County b) Islay c) Ireland d) Campbelltown

5. What area is most likely to produce a 100 percent Carménère wine? a) Jura b) Salta c) Alto-Adige d) Rapel Valley

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10. Which spirit uses a solera system? a) Brandy de Jerez b) Pisco c) Pacharán d) Seco Herrerano

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Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

KATH Y CASEY OF LIQUID KITCHEN

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in the Mix asked Kathy Casey if she could recommend a sassy, fun cocktail made with gin for the summer months. She gifted us with a wonderful recipe using an elixir utilizing the whole lemon, rind and all. We gave it a try in our mixology lab and were delighted with the outcome. I’m sure you will enjoy it also!

Gin with House-Made Bitter Lemon and Soda For a savory twist, try shaking in a sprig of fresh tarragon or rosemary with the gin and bitter lemon, before adding the sparkling water. For a demonstration of how to make the house-made bitter lemon and this cocktail, check out the cocktail video on www.LiquidKitchen.tv. Makes 1 cocktail 1 1/2 oz 1 oz 2 oz Garnish:

gin Bitter Lemon Elixir (recipe follows) Perrier Natural Sparkling Mineral Water chilled Lemon wheel and optional fresh tarragon or rosemary

Measure the gin and Bitter Lemon Elixir into a mixing glass. Fill with ice. Shake vigorously. Strain into a tall Collins glass filled with fresh ice. Add soda and stir. Garnish.

Bitter Lemon Elixir Makes 2 1/2 cups 4 Sunkist lemons 1 1 /2 cups sugar 2 cups water Wash lemons and cut the ends off. Then slice each lemon in half lengthwise and each half into 4 slices. Combine lemons, sugar and water in a blender cup. Process on high until almost smooth – mixture should still have some texture. Place mixture in a medium non-corrosive pan and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Let boil for 1 minute, then remove from heat and let steep for 1 hour. Strain through a fine strainer. Store refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

May we suggest, Fifty Pounds, Rare and Handcrafted SmallBatch London Dry Gin

Recipe and Photo by Kathy Casey Liquid Kitchen® - www.LiquidKitchen.com

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

MAKING THE ROUNDS

The Alchemy of Food and Drink With Helen Benefield Billings

The “alchemy of food and drink” is definitely the ideal description for Celebrity Chef Rick Moonen’s brainchild, Rx Boiler Room in Las Vegas. Moonen, along with Bar Manager and Mixologist Eric Smith, presents a union of eclectic comfort food presentations and handcrafted artisan cocktails at what is surely Las Vegas’ most imaginative and inspired restaurant and lounge experience.

Alchemy:

al.che.my/’alkeme/noun. A seemingly magical process of transformation, creation or combination.

Top: The RX Boiler Room bar. Photo by Roni Fields-Moonen. 32

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Chef Rick Moonen

Located within the Mandalay Bay Shoppes, Chef Moonen’s vision of a “steampunk-inspired restaurant and lounge, with décor reminiscent of industrialism during the 19th century Victorian era” has catapulted Rx Boiler Room into the spotlight.

“...die-hard foodie consumers are constantly searching for the next level of excitement and that sometimes-elusive “wow” factor.”

Today’s food and beverage scene is ever changing and being elevated to new heights, where die-hard foodie consumers are constantly searching for the next level of excitement and that sometimeselusive “wow” factor. Rx Boiler Room certainly meets those expectations.

This novel blending of old meeting new is evident in Chef Moonen’s ingenious small bites menu that includes such whimsical creations as Chicken Pot Pie Nuggets and Devils on Horseback (California dates with blue cheese, smoked bacon and a balsamic glaze) that are sure to activate your thirst buds. That’s where Mixologist Eric Smith comes in.

Bar Manager and Mixologist Eric Smith.

Smith’s passion for innovative handcrafted cocktails has inspired him to create libations specifically tailored to each guest’s whim and energy. Just belly up to the bar at Rx Boiler Room and let him know how you’re feeling. Does anything hurt or ache at the moment? What kind of mood are you in? If you’re game, Eric and his ingenious team at the bar will blend a perfectly satisfying and indulgent drink, just for you at that very moment. If you’re someone who prefers perusing the fashionable Libation Chart, you’ll find yet more inventive temptations such as Smoked Whiskey & Cola, featuring their house-made cola syrup. Perhaps Time Travelers Tea is more your speed, featuring 10 Cane Rum, chai syrup, a plethora of fresh juices and ginger beer. Somehow these eclectic ingredients coalesce in such an intriguing way as to become the essence of Rx Boiler Room.

The entrance of the RX Boiler Room. Photo by Roni Fields-Moonen.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Barbarella COCKTAIL

2 oz Stoli Elite (lavender and jasmine infused) 1 oz house-made elderberry cordial 1Â˝ oz fresh lemon juice dash

Angostura bitters

1 oz thyme simple syrup 1 oz MoĂŤt Chandon White Star floater * garnished with a Thai basil flower

Fuse the vodka with fresh lavender and jasmine buds. (You can recreate their elderberry cordial with blackberry liqueur and St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur.) Shake components in the glass with ice, top with Champagne, garnish and voila!

True North Salmon Paella with the Barbarella cocktail prepared with Stoli Elite. Photo by Camille Bruce

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MIX UP THE ORIGINAL STOLI MOSCOW MULE ®

The House of Stolichnaya™ introduces an innovative non-alcoholic mixer: Stoli™ Ginger Beer. Made from pure cane sugar and fresh ginger extract, it brings the ideal balance of sweet and spice to any cocktail. Start with Stoli™ Ginger Beer, available as a 4-pack of sleek 8.4 oz. premium cans.

DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

Stoli Group USA LLC. New York, NY. 2014 Spirits International B.V.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Ultimate Beverage Challenge (UBC) was founded in 2010 by award-winning author/critic/ journalist/educator F. Paul Pacult, publishing executive and editor Sue Woodley, and consultant David Talbot. In 2013, editor/journalist Sean Ludford became a partner. For the past five years, UBC has operated Ultimate Wine Challenge (UWC) and Ultimate Spirits Challenge (USC), which are acknowledged as being as two of the world’s foremost annual international wine evaluation and competition events. For ease of comprehension, UBC utilizes the universally understood 100-point scale. Entries that score 90 points or more in the first round of judging are assigned to a second set of judges for an additional round of blind judging, to determine finalists and trophy winners. After all the results are tabulated, the highest scoring spirits or wines in each category are awarded the highly coveted “Chairman’s Trophy.” Additional accolades of “Great Value,” which recognizes a favorable price/quality ratio, and “Tried & True Award,” which recognizes consistent quality over at least three UBC competitions, are also awarded where applicable. In addition, each spirit or wine that receives a score of 85 or higher in either UWC or USC is provided with a tasting note that records its characteristics and uses.

in the Mix Magazine

This issue we feature the

2015 TOP TEN GINS including the Chairman’s Trophy and the finalists.

Chairman’s Trophy – Score: 97

Cold River Gin United States, 47% ABV

Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation, Great Value, Tried and True Wonderfully fragrant and complex with bright scents of juniper taking the lead with support by orange, cardamom, coriander and fresh herbs. Lush and silky on the palate, it is decadent while ideally balanced. A new American classic. COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Negroni: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious Dry Gin Martini: 4 Stars, Very Delicious

Finalist – Score: 96

Beefeater London Dry Gin

Tanqueray London Dry Gin

United Kingdom, 47% ABV

United Kingdom, 47.3% ABV

Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation, Great Value, Tried and True

A true classic and a staple in any respectable bar. The nose is generous and complex while ever evolving in the glass. Vibrant and focused on the palate with a silky texture. The quintessential London Dry Gin.

Balance and sophistication are the descriptors that leap to mind. Juniper, lemon and orange zest, dry and fresh pine needles, and an underlying mineral note. A benchmark.

COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Negroni: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious Dry Gin Martini: 4½ Stars, Drop Dead Delicious

Negroni: 4½ Stars, Drop Dead Delicious Dry Gin Martini: 4½ Stars, Drop Dead Delicious

COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Finalist – Score: 95 Finalist – Score: 96

Citadelle Gin France, 44% ABV

Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation, Great Value, Tried and True Wisps of juniper with subtle blanched nuts, brown spice, fennel and leafy herbs fill the generous nose. Superbly balanced and complex on the palate with clean citrus notes that carry to the finish. COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Dry Gin Martini: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious Negroni: 4½ Stars, Drop Dead Delicious

Tanqueray No. Ten Gin United Kingdom, 47.3% ABV

Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation, Tried and True Bold and complex this classic offers layers of citrus fruits, juniper, brown baking spices, angelica and citrus zest. Rich while balanced with a defining black pepper eruption on the finish. COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Dry Gin Martini: 4½ Stars, Drop Dead Delicious Negroni: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious

Finalist – Score: 94 Finalist – Score: 96

Queens Courage Gin United States, 45% ABV

Monkey 47 Schwarzwald Dry Gin United States, 47% ABV

Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation

Excellent, Highly Recommended

Beautifully fragrant with waves of toasted grains mingling with honey, dry seed spices, citrus zest and dried fruit, with hints of Christmas tree. Perfectly balanced with the viscosity and touch of sweetness that you desire in an Old Tom style.

Brilliant notes of citrus zest and fruit take the lead with juniper, ginger and white pepper in support. Sweet orange notes rise on the palate and mingle carefully with the other botanicals on a rich bed of grain spirit. Lovely.

COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Dry Gin Martini: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious

Negroni: 2½ Stars, Delicious Dry Gin Martini: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Finalist – Score: 94

Plymouth Navy Strength Gin United Kingdom, 57% ABV

Excellent, Highly Recommended, Tried and True Beautifully grainy and crisp with scents of pine needle, orange blossom, a dried herb mélange, juniper and dried flowers. Voluptuous on the palate while maintaining perfect balance with the juniper notes rising with each passing second. COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Negroni: 4 Stars, Very Delicious Dry Gin Martini: 4 Stars, Very Delicious

Finalist – Score: 94

Plymouth Gin

United Kingdom, 41.2% ABV Excellent, Highly Recommended, Tried and True Splendidly unique and vibrant with juniper being nearly equaled by citrus fruit and candied zest, coriander, cardamom and bold black pepper on the palate. Ideally proportioned and versatile for the bar. COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Negroni: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious Dry Gin Martini: 4 Stars, Very Delicious

Finalist – Score: 94

Sipsmith London Dry Gin England, 41.6% ABV

Excellent, Highly Recommended Beautifully fragrant and floral on the nose with waves of juniper and citrus fruits shining through. The palate is decidedly dry while generous with layers of fruit, juniper and dried spices. COCKTAIL RECOMMENDATION:

Dry Gin Martini: 3½ Stars, Very Delicious Negroni: 4 Stars, Very Delicious

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Image credit to http://lifesavour.net/tag/cocktails

AS GOOD IN A MARTINI AS IT IS I N T H E H A L L O F FA M E Tanqueray No. Ten® is the only white spir it in the San Francisco World Spir its Hall of Fame

ENJOY THE FINEST SPIRIT RESPONSIBLY.

INTRODUCING Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

IX X

II III

IX XII I

XII I I XII X I XI

COCKTAILS’ HOUR COCKTAILS’ HOUR

CKTAILS’ HOUR

A Dozen On-Trend Drinks with Big Flavor-Building Opportunities By Katie Ayoub, managing editor, Flavor & The Menu Courtesy of Flavor & The Menu, getflavor.com

Cocktail culture, trickling down from the elite to the everyday, has raised the bar on the flavor experience. Fresh juices, creative purées, boldly flavored syrups, funky brand labels — they’re all informing beverage development. As we’ve seen with food menus, consumers respond to premiumization, layering of flavors and a mark of craftsmanship. The same holds true for today’s beverage menus. Here are 12 trending cocktails that offer mouthwatering opportunities for signature sips.

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01 /

MICHELADA

This Mexican beer cocktail is a refreshing and savory blend of tomato juice, hot sauce and a cold beer finish, with the rest of the beer served on the side. The Michelada is basically a beer version of a Bloody Mary, served in a salt-rimmed glass. We’re seeing this drink popping up in beer-centric venues, as well as places looking for an authentic Mexican offering that holds a hip level of exoticism. Variations on the theme include chile salt for the rim, maybe a dash of ghost pepper sauce in the drink, or perhaps a dark Mexican beer with a hit of umami from Worcestershire and soy sauce.

The Silent Mule from Neat Bar.

02 /

MOSCOW MULE

You know a drink’s having its moment when you can find its signature glassware at Williams-Sonoma. Indeed, the famous copper mug might be part of this post-Prohibition classic’s resurgence. Refreshingly tart, the standard combines vodka, fresh-squeezed lime juice and ginger beer. Now bartenders are taking liberties, switching out vodka for bourbon and christening it the “Kentucky Mule,” or subbing out the non-alc ginger beer for a hard ginger beer, like in the Milwaukee Mule.

At Mercadito, guests choose the beer base for their Michelada, which gets its Bloody Mary-like accents from lime, Tabasco, Worcestershire and salt. Courtesy of Mercadito Hospitality.

Chapter One: The Modern Local, in Santa Ana, Calif., offers Mule Mondays with a dozen variations, including one with spicy house-made ginger beer, Svedka Swedish vodka, Chase Elderflower Liqueur and fresh lime.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

A trio of punches from Celeste in Chicago: Starbright Tango: Vodka, NV Piper-Hiedsieck Brut, St. Germain, seasonal shrub, herbs. Wimbledon Punch: Pimm’s, Evan Williams Bourbon BIB, citrus, blackberry, black tea. Kuba Gan Gillian: Control Pisco, PF Dry Curacao, pineapple juice, Szechwan peppercorn, orange bitters. Photo credit – Celeste, Chicago.

03 /

04 /

FRENCH 75

Ahh, bubbles. Elegant, refreshing and crisp, the French 75 is riding high on the Champagne cocktail trend. Made with gin (sometimes Cognac), Champagne, lemon juice and simple syrup, this classic was created in 1915 at the Harry’s New York Bar in Paris. We’re now seeing iterations with different citrus or floral notes, flavored simple syrups and other unexpected nuances.

HOUSE PUNCH

This is a somewhat new phenomenon on the bar scene, where supper clubs and underground bars have reclaimed punch, giving it an edgy, of-the-people, weekend feel. Sangria is the mother of this trend, and even within sangria we’re seeing innovation in recipe builds. As an example, look to Penca in Tucson, Ariz., where the Sangria of Rosé is made by steeping thyme, rosemary and savory in Rosé, then adding dry Peruvian pisco, reduced Chardonnay and dry sherry. As a broader category, punch gives bartenders a chance to throw personality, brand image and cult following into one big bowl. At Craft & Commerce in San Diego, three shareable punch bowls are on offer ($42), including the Eden’s Orchard with rye whiskey, Amontillado sherry, Fuji apple syrup, lemon, whiskey-barrel-aged bitters and Champagne.

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A classic French 75. Try one at Arnaud’s the next time you are in New Orleans.

Hot Brown Bloody Mary – Made with Absolut Peppar, the drink is topped with the traditional Hot Brown ingredients: roasted turkey, bacon, tomato; and to imitate the Mornay sauce, several cheese cubes from cheddar to Swiss; and to make it extra attractive, a baked Parmesan lace. Courtesy of the Bristol Bar & Grille in Louisville, Ky.

05 /

BLOODY MARY

This Sunday staple is leading the charge in brunch menu innovation. Garnishes have moved beyond a flowery celery stalk to house-brined pickles, green beans and cocktail onions. Marking today’s Bloody Mary culture: beef jerky swizzles, Scotch eggs dangling precariously from toothpicks, and fat shrimp ready to plunge into the drink. And as for the actual beverage, craftsmanship makes for the standout, but hip booze labels and bacon-everything play a big part here.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Left: Pimm’s lends spice notes and sophistication to War of the Roses, by head bartender Mike Ryan at Chicago’s Sable Kitchen & Bar, when combined with Chase Elderflower, gin, lime juice, simple syrup, Peychaud’s Bitters and fresh mint. Courtesy of Sable, Chicago. Bottom: Instead of lemony soda, the Living Room Bar at W South Beach in Florida uses ontrend ginger beer in its beautifully garnished Pimm’s Cup 2. Photo courtesy of Andres Aravena.

06 /

PIMM’S

In the U.K., Pimm’s celebrates the short summer, crowning garden parties with welcoming bowls of Pimm’s, fresh fruit, mint and lemon-flavored soda. Here, this gin-based beverage with subtle spice notes gets a bit of polish, moving away from a backyard gathering into sophisticated drinks.

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Margaritas come in a variety of flavors, including this refreshing mango version.

07 /

MARGARITA

Technomic’s MenuMonitor confirms for us that the margarita is still the most popular cocktail in this country, in terms of menu mentions. We’re seeing a call for better margaritas, where operators can charge premium prices for top-shelf tequilas, creative or house-made simple syrups, bold purees, seasonal cues and flavor-forward signature twists. Indeed, Technomic reports that mango is a hot flavor here, as are berry blends and a counterpoint of sweet with spice.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

08 /

RADLER

Another beer-based beverage, this one is a refreshing blend of beer with lemon-flavored soda. This also appears as the “Shandy,” originally hailing from the U.K., but we’re seeing the Radler as part of a new surge of German beer and food culture. Either way, it’s another expression of “lighter” style drinks that quench the thirst while stimulating the palate. Look for variations in name and character, depending on regional influence. For instance, in Bavaria the Radler becomes the “Russ,” with Weiss beer as the base instead of lager.

09 / T EA-INFUSED

COCKTAILS

The world of tea has flowered, and tea varieties are bringing cocktails flavor, heft and dimension. You can go The Stiegl Radler is 312 Chicago’s version of the Radler – Hendrick’s Gin on the rocks, topped with a bottle of Stiegl (Grapefruit) Radler. Courtesy of 312 Chicago.

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everywhere from a spiked iced tea to a hibiscus tea paired with gin and fresh-squeezed lime. Look to fun bottled infusions like Earl Grey-infused City of London Gin or Jeremiah Weed Sweet Tea Vodka.

10 /

PALOMA

This refreshing tequila cocktail combines white tequila made smooth as silk with fizzy grapefruit soda. The basic Paloma stars Squirt, but bartenders are upping the fresh factor with hand-squeezed grapefruit juice finished with a spritz of seltzer water. Bitter, sweet, citrusy and boozy, a new favorite version is one that boasts a finish of fiery heat from jalapeñoinfused tequila.

Angry Orchard cider

11 /

CIDER

The craft beer movement has led to growing interest in craft ciders. Indeed, there are now more than 150 cideries in North America. Savvy bars are dedicating a few taps to emerging labels, adding menu interest and credibility with the ever-growing crowd of better-beverage seekers. They’re also layering cider into cocktails, giving them a bubbly, sweet-tart profile.

This festive Paloma is from The Living Room Bar at W South Beach in Florida and features tequila, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, agave and egg white. Photo courtesy of Andres Aravena. Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

12 / S PIKED

SHAKES

Who says milkshakes are for kids? Sweet, creamy and thick, we’re seeing adult themes find their way into these indulgent drinks. For the better burger category, it’s a natural extension. And for everywhere else? There’s very little not to love about combining booze with dessert. At Bobby’s Burger Palace, with locations nationwide, three spiked shakes are on the menu: Vanilla Caramel Bourbon, Pineapple Coconut Rum and Mocha Kahlua Vodka.

Left: Irish Beer Shake – a blend of Guinness Stout, Jameson Irish Whiskey and chocolate ice cream. Courtesy of Red Robin. Bottom: Blue Moon Beer Shake – a blend of creamy vanilla soft serve, Blue Moon Belgian White beer, Cointreau Orange Liqueur and orange juice. Courtesy of Red Robin.

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FOR MORE ON OUR UNIQUE PROCESS AND AWARD-WINNING SMOOTH TASTE, VISIT REYKA.COM PLEASE DRINK REYKA RESPONSIBLY. TAKK! (THAT’S ‘THANK YOU’ IN ICELANDIC.) REYKA VODKA, 40% ALC/VOL. (80 PROOF) DISTILLED FROM GRAIN. ©2015 WILLIAM GRANT & SONS. NEW YORK, NY.

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B OS TON BE E R It was my pleasure to spend the morning talking with The Boston Beer Company’s founder and brewer, Jim Koch. Jim began in 1984 with a generations-old family recipe that had been uncovered in his father’s attic. Inspired and unafraid to challenge conventional thinking about beer, he brought the recipe to life in his kitchen. Pleased with the results of his work, Jim decided to sample his beer with bars in Boston in the hopes that drinkers would appreciate the complex, full-flavored beer he brewed fresh in America. That beer was aptly named Samuel Adams Boston Lager, in recognition of one of our nation’s great founding fathers, a man of independent mind and spirit. Little did Jim know at the time but Samuel Adams Boston Lager would soon become a catalyst of the American craft beer revolution. Here is how the conversation went.

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Mike Raven: You actually come from a long line of beer aficionados. Is it true your dad gave you the recipe from your grandfather that he used in the 1870s in St. Louis? When did you come up with the idea to do it for real? Jim Koch: It was, let me see … we made the first batch in 1984, so 31 years ago, and released it commercially in early ‘85. This was just a very different time; this beer wonderland we enjoy today was a beer wasteland 31 years ago. There were basically just imports and domestics. And the domestics were (they’re consolidating now) … you might find an old Stroh or an Old Style or a Schlitz.

I grew up on Stroh’s, being from Detroit.

Yeah, exactly, but they were all losing the war. Then it was all Bud, Miller and Coors. And massive TV advertising. Then you had Heineken, Becks, Molson and Corona.

Were they mostly pilsners?

Well, really they were light American lagers. It was basically a light beer – whether it was called Budweiser premium or not, they were all light beers: light color, light taste, light flavor, light aroma. So into that wasteland (laughing), I appeared with a beer that wasn’t like anything else out there, at least in the eastern part of the U.S. It had color, it had taste, it had malt and it had hops. It also had no advertising, no distributor and no identity.

You had nothin’ (laughing).

That’s right! I couldn’t get a distributor to carry it. So in Massachusetts, you can self-distribute if you have a brewer’s license. You can actually go sell it to retailers. So that’s what I did. And when I started, I couldn’t afford six-packs so all I had was loose cases of bottles. And I couldn’t afford kegs. So I could really only sell to bars and restaurants – so that’s how I got started.

No kegs?

No, no kegs. Interestingly, back in ‘83, ‘84, ‘85, the keg beer tended to be like the cheap stuff. The bottles were the quality beers. Yeah. Now that you mention it, I drank a lot Heineken is those days.

Top: Some of the first cases of Boston Lager

Yeah, you put it into a glass and it all looks the same – no badge to it. Heineken really didn’t like draft; they wanted the badge – that green bottle on the bar. Otherwise the drinker wasn’t making a statement with it. So, I couldn’t afford kegs anyway so it wasn’t really much of an issue for me (grinning). At the time, there were no guideposts or benchmarks for where this was going to go. Now we look backwards and say, well, there was this whole craft beer revolution starting. But there wasn’t a craft beer revolution even in the making in those days. Exactly. If you were a beer drinker and you wanted a higher quality beer, you drank an import. You sure didn’t drink an American beer. And here I show up with an American beer that broke the mold.

Bottom: Early days “special delivery”

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

The barrel room at Sam Adams Brewery

How did you make it in those days? Did you brew it at home?

Well, I started home brewing it, but my family were commercial brewers. My dad was a professional brew master; my grandfather and great-great grandfather were; so, you know, I grew up around breweries. And when I started, I didn’t have enough money to build or buy a brewery of the quality I was used to. Home brewing is fine but you try to scale up home brewing techniques to a commercial scale and you’re asking for trouble. Because as a home brewer, you don’t worry about things like sanitation, infection, stability and consistency. It’s okay if every batch is different; the beer only has to last a week or two in the bottle. And if a few bottles blow up, well, that’s kind of what happens (laughing). Usually you keep your home brews in a closet or down the basement so

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when they start going off – and they go off like grenades: boom! (laughter) – when you start to hear that, you just stay away for a while. So what I did was an innovation. My dad knew breweries and said there are plenty of good breweries that have excess capacity. So we would go and bring our own ingredients, we had our own recipe, and we would make the beer at someone else’s brewery. So that’s what I did. It was called contract brewing or sometimes it was called partner brewing. It’s gotten lots of names over the years. It was finding a brewery with the right equipment and the right quality control, bringing my ingredients and making my beer; and then five or six weeks later, packaging it and selling it. So that’s how I got started. We eventually bought our own brewery. We built this brewery in ‘88.

Was the only beer you had then Boston Lager?

Yes, it would be several years before I got a second beer. It is still our largest selling beer today. So I kind of launched it, never expecting to succeed at this level. My original business plan was to get to 5,000 barrels, which is about 65,000 cases a year, with eight people and about a million dollars in revenue, and then it would level off. Because, I thought, there was a little niche for something like this and it probably won’t appeal to a lot of people. I didn’t have a ton of resources to grow it and I thought it probably isn’t growable anyway but there will be people who want a higher quality beer and want it fresh, and I can

six weeks after it “ ...came out, it was picked as the best beer in America and it just took off.” (BOSTON LAGER)

do that. And, long story short, six weeks after it came out, it was picked as the best beer in America and it just took off. It wasn’t like the Corona phenomenon or anything like that. It took us 10 years to do what they did in three. I remember the day we grew 50 percent. (Both of us belly laughing.) It doubled when I hired Rhonda and again six months later when I hired Dean, so I thought that was pretty fast growth. Yeah, so it began, and it helped lead to something much bigger that was this craft beer revolution, which today is transforming beer, not just here in the U.S., but in the rest of the world. The rest of the world today is looking to America to learn how to make beer. Back in the day, people would look to Germany or the likes of it, to learn about beer, right? Exactly! People would look at my beer and say it can’t be that good because it’s not imported. In Germany, they’ve been making beer for a thousand years; they know how to do it. Come back in a thousand years,

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

maybe we’ll take your beer (laughing). If you look at the craft beer revolution and what it’s already done, it is truly extraordinary – particularly when you go back to this handful of “out of the mainstream, semi-misfits” that started this revolution. You know, I was like a dropout from consulting. I had a good thing going – I have three degrees from Harvard. They got a lot of my money.

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So you went to your local college, huh?

Exactly – Harvard, the local community college (joking). But I dropped out of the consulting business. I mean, these were people that dropped out of something. A guy who dropped out of the Navy started New Albion, which is really what got this whole thing going. Another brewer, Vinnie Cilurzo, made the first, true, American IPA. He was talking about his brew house and he said to me, “Yeah, I got it from this guy in Bisbee, Arizona.” I said, “Did you get it from Electric Dave?” This guy, he called himself Electric Dave, so he started Electric Dave’s brewing but he had to sell it because he was going to federal prison for marijuana trafficking. That’s what I’m saying – these were out of the mainstream people. There was a handful of small American brewers who eventually changed the way the world thinks about beer.

Do you think this had any influence on the current craft whiskey movement? Oh, absolutely. In fact, I don’t know if you know the head of the American Distillers Institute, Bill Owens?

No, I don’t.

He publishes Craft Distiller Magazine. Bill is one of those early pioneers. He started the first brewpub in the U.S. He had the idea that if I can do small-scale brewing, could I get a license to just sell it right there? I don’t have to go through a distributor, don’t have to worry about packaging and so on. Brilliant idea – there are thousands of them now. Bill Owens was the same kind of mainstream dropout. He was a photojournalist and a well-known photographer in American photography in the second

half of the 20th century. I saw him about 10 years ago and he had an exhibit of his photography at Yale. He was also a photographer for Rolling Stone but there wasn’t enough money in it for him, so he dropped out and started this brewpub. Anyway, he was one of the founders of the craft distilling movement. He is a physical link to the beginnings of craft beer and craft distilling. Actually one of the first craft distillers was a fellow named Fritz Maytag at Anchor Steam. He made Potrero gin like 15 years ago. In fact, Rhonda, my first hire, is opening a craft distillery in a few weeks on Boston Harbor. So absolutely. Speaking of your ingredients, do you still use the German hops in the lager? I’m not sure how to pronounce it. Hallertauer Mittelfrüeh. Yeah, hops are to beer like grapes are to wine.

Jim intensely checking the hops Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

eyes and I have two boxes in “ Imyclosemind,mytwo numbers: One is for the intensity of the aroma and the other is for the quality of the aroma. So for each lot, we’ll have three numbers: physical inspection, intensity of the aroma and the quality of the aroma. The hop selection is absolutely crucial in the quality of your beer.

”

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are to beer like grapes are “ Hops to wine.”

Never thought of it that way.

Yes, the quality of your beer can only be as good as the quality of your hops and malt, just as in wine. For a winemaker to make a great wine, they need great grapes. Once a year, I go to the area called Hallertau – that’s the name of the region – in central Bavaria.

So this is like an appellation for hops?

It is just like an appellation. It is legally controlled and you have to get certified. There are 14 sealing villages, meaning they are authorized to put a seal on the hops certifying that they are grown in that soil of that variety. The German government legally controls it.

Do you buy a lot of these hops?

Oh yeah, we are the largest buyer in the world now of this special hop.

Is it expensive?

Yes, and difficult to grow. You have to really build relationships with the growers and the hop dealers there. When I first started going there, they had an official (seal master) that would put a red wax seal on the hops depending on which of the villages they came from. There are five varieties of hops that are legally considered noble hops. Like noble grapes, they are historic varieties and have to be grown in their original soil. You can’t transplant them and grow them somewhere else. Hallertauer Mittelfrüeh is one of the five, another is Tettnang – those are the two noble hops that go into Boston Lager.

Do you still look forward to going there every year?

After thirty something years (pause, laughter), I do. It’s in the fall, so it’s peaceful. You get on a plane at 9:00 at night – there’s a non-stop to Munich – sleep, land and you’re in another world. I’ve been going there a long time

and know a lot of people there. It’s intense; the farmers have relatively small plots. In the U.S., you’ll get farmers with 500 to 1,000 acres. In Germany, you are a big grower if you have 15 acres. So that means, to assemble all the hops we need for our beer, I go through hundreds of lots. The crop goes to the hop dealer and he has a certain sampling technique to present the hops to the buyer from that grower for the year. It’s generally in a hop warehouse, so it’s not exactly glorious: You get in a lab coat and they will lay out, say, 100 farmers’ lots. They are on purple paper (yes, purple paper) because it makes the green of the hops more pronounced. You go from lot to lot; most have an analysis of the hop but you can’t buy them off of a chemical analysis. You first do a physical inspection, looking for stems and leaves and things that shouldn’t be in there. Then you pick them up and feel them; you do “the rub.” You want a certain moisture content – 10 or 11 percent, roughly – so you want them to feel a certain way; you want them to compress and bounce back. If they are too dry, they won’t bounce back; if they are too wet, they are too bouncy. (He goes on to show me how he rubs the hops in his hands and puffs on them to extract the aroma and the oils that are in the lupulin glands.) I’ve does this thousands of times, maybe ten thousand. I close my eyes and I have two boxes in my mind, two numbers: One is for the intensity of the aroma and the other is for the quality of the aroma. So for each lot, we’ll have three numbers: physical inspection, intensity of the aroma and the quality of the aroma. The hop selection is absolutely crucial in the quality of your beer. (He goes to say how they keep data and statistics on each farmer, the scientific part of the selection. The feeling I got was it is mostly done by his experience and expertise in the selection process.)

taste every batch of every “ ISam Adams beer. I know, it’s a little weird.”

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Somewhere I read you taste every batch of Boston Beer before it is released. I taste every batch of every Sam Adams beer. I know, it’s a little weird. My question is, when was the last time you had to throw one out because you didn’t like it?

Well, yesterday (both of us were roaring laughing).

Well, that answers that question! I didn’t think that would be the case! Does it happen often? No, not that many. Pretty funny. In this case (he showed me a picture of a “crown” [cap] of a beer), can you see the little mark in the cap? That’s an imperfection in the liner of the crown. And the beer didn’t taste right. 58

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Because it was oxidized?

Yes. I got this bottle and it looked like the fill was low, and a little bit of beer was on the outside of it, so it probably leaked out from the foam. I thought, there’s something the matter with this beer – and I’ve done this enough to know. It had a bad fill, so I wondered, did we not fill it right or what was wrong? We did some research with the numbers that were on the bottle because that will tell me the exact minute that it was bottled and the filler, so we can trace that back and find not only which batch of crowns we used, but every stage the beer went through. One case of crowns is 100 gross, so that’s about 600 cases of beer. That’s ironic you asked that question; yes, it was a Boston Lager.

I get sent every release of Sam Adams beer – some for public release and some that are experimental. It makes me wonder, just how many beers are you currently releasing for sale? We will release, commercially, 60 a year. Many of them are very small batches, like those barrel room collection beers. They’re in limited distribution. You will find them in ABCs, Total Wines and such, where you may find 20 different Sam Adams beers. Whereas if you go into a Publix, you won’t find twenty but quite a few; and in a 7-11, God willing, you’ll find Boston Lager and a seasonal. A Yard House may carry six or seven Sam Adams drafts you won’t find at your neighborhood bar. So, for us, it’s fun to make these beers. They’re cool, like this experimental nitro-style beer, which took us over a year to perfect.

What was with the HeliYUM video that you put out last year?

That was an April Fools’ prank (laughing) about a new beer we were making called HeliYum. I nearly asphyxiated myself breathing helium so I could talk like that. That was just for fun. It got over a million views. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Tby91aTGF4).

We put it on ITM.com and got a slew of views from it.

Yeah, we’ve never released anything that got a million views in a couple of days. It was fun. Some people asked if it was real! Well, you never know with you – you’re making all kinds of stuff! The special nitro beer referred to in the interview

will release, commercially, “ We 60 a year. Many of (BEERS)

them are very small batches, like those barrel room collection beers. They’re in limited distribution.

”

What it highlights is there are two pillars of this craft beer revolution. One is tradition, bringing back traditional styles and traditional quality. The other is innovation and creativity. Craft beer rests on both those pillars. And you see it with the Boston Brick Red (only available in Boston) classic style beer, very malty, largely forgotten even in Ireland, then revived by Sam Adams. It’s all malt, so we are able to coax that red color out of the malt. There’s nothing in there except roasted malt. We have a special roast to get that gorgeous red color. That is a very faithful version of a classic traditional style. Then on the other hand, we have this new nitro beer, making beer do things you’ve never seen (tasting his new experimental nitro beer). You’ve seen a lot of beer in your life and I bet you’ve never seen a beer like that.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

It actually changed color as the nitrogen dissipated. It looked very pale but gained an amber hue as it sat. Yeah, it is a lot of fun doing these really cool things that nobody’s done before. For us, it means we are continuing to provide leadership to the craft category, coming up with new ideas, new styles – pushing the envelope. I get the feeling you want everyone (in the craft beer trade) to be successful. I’ve learned that we are either going to succeed together as craft brewers or not at all. I think it’s pretty evident it’s happening. I wouldn’t worry about going out of business tomorrow. I think we worry about that because all 3,500 of us still have only 10 percent (of the market) and then there’s

the two 800-pound gorillas that have a 90 percent or 80 percent share. When my father was in the business, there were a thousand breweries in the U.S. and they all went out of business because the big guys took over. Who’s to say that won’t happen again? Not tomorrow, not this decade, but in our lifetimes maybe. There’s no God-given right to this business. If you’re in business, you are never entitled. You’re only entitled to what your customer is going to give you. Speaking of creating and sharing innovation, don’t you share the Sam can design with your constituents? What’s different about your can? If you look at it, the top, you can see it’s extended and it has an hourglass shape to it. The lid is bigger than the normal lid. The hourglass shape opens your mouth up vertically and the bigger lid opens it horizontally. Continued on page 95.

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A DV E RTO R I A L

Coming your way

One of today’s hottest drinks, the Pusser’s Rum Painkiller, is making a statement all over the country. The cocktail not only has a catchy name but it is also delicious and when offered, always responds with brisk sales. The exotic, but easy to make, blend of juice and cream of coconut gives any cocktail list a tropical feel for summer. The storied history of Pusser’s dates back to when it was the original Navy Rum served on board warships of Great Britain’s Royal Navy from about 1731 to 1970, more than 200 years! It was never sold or offered to the public until 1979. Prior to this, if a rum connoisseur managed to obtain a tot or two, it was valued for a very special occasion. The daily issue of Pusser’s Rum in the Royal Navy ended on July 31st, 1970. This date has since been referred to as Black Tot Day.

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The Painkiller!

A DV E RTO R I A L

DAVE & BUSTER’S, known for their extensive cocktail list, tested the Painkiller cocktail in four cities around the country and, based on its success, have decided to add it to a summer promotion in 74 of their restaurants! in the Mix asked Kulsoom Klavon, Dave & Buster’s vice president of Culinary & Beverage R&D, how they plan to promote the cocktail and why she thinks it is such a popular drink? She had this to say,

Dave & Buster’s Painkiller

If you are cruising on the high

seas with NORWEGIAN CRUISE

LINES, you will find the Painkiller available at your favorite bars on board. It’s a perfect tropical drink to sip while watching a spectacular sunset from the ship. Wes Cort, the director of Beverage & Restaurants for Norwegian Cruise Lines explains why he thinks the drink is such a hit on their ships,

Offering handcrafted, quality cocktails to our guests is a priority and the Painkiller with Pusser’s Rum is the quintessential vacation beverage. Our guests love the rich history around Pusser’s and how it’s the perfect libation to sip while at sea.”

Classic cocktails are very on trend. Our Painkiller is classically made with Pusser’s Blue Label Navy Rum, pineapple juice, cream of coconut, orange juice, and a sprinkle of ground nutmeg on top. In addition, the classic Tiki style goblet and umbrella pineapple garnish really deliver a fun and WOW presentation, and Dave & Buster’s is all about FUN! We believe the allure of the name Painkiller, the deep history of the cocktail from the British Virgin Islands and the great taste of this drink have been responsible for its success. The Painkiller is one of the four cornerstones of a newly-created Tiki Drinks specialty cocktail section in our beverage menu.”

The national luxury hotel chain, LOEWS HOTELS AND

RESORTS, has also had success with the Painkiller cocktail. We asked Joseph Beja, assistant director of Food and Beverage at the Loews Miami Beach Hotel if he thought the tropical, forbidden nature of the drink attracts patrons to try it?

What initially attracts guests to Pusser’s Painkiller is the name itself since they think it’s the perfect remedy for a night out on South Beach. However, once they see the tropical ingredients of the recipe include pineapple juice, cream of coconut and fresh orange juice, they realize it’s a perfect poolside drink. The history of Pusser’s Rum and the whimsical story of the Painkiller recipe add an extra layer of engagement between our servers and the guests. The fact that Pusser’s was only available to the British Navy until 1970 shows that it’s of high quality. Also, the cocktail is served over ice, which maintains its integrity for a longer amount of time, rather than blending it in directly.”

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Smoke & Beverage

By Ned Barker, CEO, Grill Ventures International

in the Mix Magazine

“Smoke & Beverage” may not be a catchy title, but I had to avoid the obvious puns. Well-written articles and blogs related to the topic have carried titles like “Scorch & Soda,” “Smoke Gets in Your Ice” (my favorite), and “Smoke Signals.” I had been working with “Served Up – In Smoke” until I realized its misleading potential.

Smoky beverages have been around for centuries. German smoked beer, or Rauchbier, dates from the 16th century. And the smoky black tea of China, Lapsang Souchong, was first created in the 17th century. Mezcal, too, has been made since the 17th century. Peaty Scotches were produced in Islay in the early 19th century. In the 21st century, on the heels of the barbecue and bacon stampede, we’ve figured out how to add smoke directly – to a finished cocktail, to a cocktail’s ingredients, or even to a cocktail’s ice. Some of the cocktail-smoking techniques evolved as molecular gastronomy methods peeked around the kitchen door, saw the bar and headed straight for it. For example, the PolyScience Smoking Gun, used widely by bartenders to infuse smoke into their cocktails or cocktail ingredients, was invented at the request of Grant Achatz of Chicago’s Alinea restaurant.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

PolyScience’s CEO and “inventor to the chefs” Philip Preston, told Food & Wine’s Oliver SchwanerAlbright in a July 2008 interview, that the original “gun” was a modified battery-operated computer keyboard cleaner that he created for a joke. Demand forced him into production.

trend. What is smoke, anyway? Is it a flavor, or what? And why do we like it so much (when part of a balanced drink)? Is it that caveman thing?

But it doesn’t take a Smoking Gun to create ice with embedded smoke. The common method for accomplishing that is to place a block of ice in a covered wood smoker and let it melt. Make sure the ice is sitting on a vessel that will collect the smoky water, which can then be made into cubes. This works because, well, smoke loves ice. Maybe it’s not exactly love, but there’s clearly an attraction. The attraction is a phenomenon known as thermophoretic force, which means that the smoke will settle on cold surfaces before it will settle on hotter surfaces.

Smoke has been used for pest control, as a weapon, to mark a ritual and, of course, to enhance the flavor and texture of certain foods and beverages.

While beverage smoking trends and techniques are well documented, I wanted to explore what is behind the

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WHAT IS SMOKE?

Smoke is complicated. Technically, smoke occurs as a result of incomplete combustion. It’s part solid particles (in an aerosol format), part liquid (tiny droplets) and part gas (vaporized chemicals). The vaporized chemicals are a small part of the smoke components but account for nearly all of smoke’s “flavors.” And the flavors will differ depending on its solid fuel type and the combustion conditions. Flavor intensity will be governed by the quantity of smoke, the surface size of the subject and the length of time of the exposure.

Wow. Consider this: Smoke, as an ingredient, is replete with variables and must be made from scratch by the bartender. Achieving a well-balanced drink using smoke – consistently – is a tribute to the skill and dedication of the talented bartenders who pull it off.

IS SMOKE A FLAVOR? Considering the composition of smoke, the right answer might be that it’s a compilation of flavors. It’s almost like asking if red wine is a flavor. Most of us can answer that easily: Red wine is a complex category embracing many products with multiple flavors, and no two red wines ever taste exactly the same. Flavor is a result of taste, physical stimulation (like texture or the burn of a spicy food) and smell. You’ll recall that taste occurs when receptors on the tongue react to salty, sweet, sour, bitter and umami. It has been suggested that smoke may be a sixth taste. While this resonates, science tells us that there are no tongue receptors for smoke; so, really, it’s not an element of taste. Regardless, in the case of smoke, smell is the prime contributor to flavor.

“ It has been suggested that smoke may be a sixth taste.”

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

WHY DO WE LIKE SMOKE SO MUCH?

USING SMOKE IN COCKTAILS

Fire exists in nature and therefore has been around longer than we have. Beyond that, there is no consensus. Man has been able to control fire for a couple of hundred thousand years, or maybe a half million years. But we only learned to cook with it “recently,” between 12,000 and 125,000 years ago, depending upon whom you ask.

Given the challenges presented by the use of smoke in a cocktail – balance and consistency – one might conclude that sticking to smoky beverages like an Islay Scotch or mezcal, or perhaps even using liquid smoke, is the way to go.

“Of the three elements of flavor, it’s smell that rocks our dawn-of-man world,” said columnist Jim Shahin, writing in The Washington Post in May 2014. “That’s because the sense is lodged in an ancient part of the brain called the limbic system, which houses emotion and longterm memory. Smells trigger personal memories as well as atavistic, or ancestral, ones.”

But let’s not throw the baby out with the (smoky) bath water. The best way to achieve the balance you want with consistency is probably to smoke the ingredients instead of the drink itself. As for smoking the cocktail directly, smoke in the bar can make for a great show, but may not appeal to all of the patrons. Let’s start with ice, the cocktail ingredient used more than any other. A popular method, letting ice melt slowly in a wood smoker and refreezing the now smoky water, was mentioned earlier. Smoked cubes have been used in every drink you might imagine, though not always successfully. Positive results have been reported to enhance whiskeybased drinks and non-whiskey drinks such as the Bloody Mary, the Negroni, the Daiquiri and many more.

“ Achieving a well-balanced drink using smoke – consistently – is a tribute to the skill and dedication of the talented bartenders who pull it off.”

As for other ingredients, the bartender’s imagination is the only limitation. Smoking examples include simple syrup, or cola syrup for a Jack & Cola or Cuba Libra. Smoke has been infused into white and red wine, beer, coffee, tequila, Scotch, milk, Muscat, hot chocolate and more – though not always with a successful result. Other batch infusion techniques exist – for example, infusing a spirit with natural hardwood charcoal or Lapsang Souchong tea. “Smoke & Beverage” may not be a catchy title, but the combination is here to stay.

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The People Have Spoken:

Results from the

2015 Consumer Wine Awards By Tim Hanni, MW Looking for some truly exciting and different wines to put on your list or feature by the glass? The Consumer Wine Awards results are in and, once again, demonstrate how excited everyday wine lovers can be about the wines the wine critics tend to disregard and ignore. Top winners run the gamut from Pinot Grigio from Wisconsin and Concord wine from Indiana, to Sauvignon Blanc from Napa and Zinfandel from Lodi, California. Wines with a high quality/price ratio are recognized with the “Best Bargain Wines” award acknowledging George Taber, author of The Judgment of Paris and A Toast to Bargain Wines, for his support of this tasting. March 14, 2010 marked the date of this unique, consumer-oriented wine assessment and awards. The event is open to wines of every region, grape variety, type and style, and is the first to recognize and celebrate the fact every person has unique physiological and sensory differences that profoundly affect wine and food preferences. The judges assessing each category Tim Hanni MW with George Taber, of wine will be the author of The Judgment of Paris and very consumers who A Toast to Bargain Wines. are inclined to most 70

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buy and enjoy the wines of that category. Trained experts, professional judges and wine experts are not allowed to participate as evaluators. The mission of the Consumer Wine Awards (CWA) is celebrating the diversity of both the wines of the world and the diversity of the people who love wine. The CWA premise is that there is often an inverse relationship between the wines favored by trained wine experts and the wines that are cherished and sought after by everyday wine lovers. A quick perusal of the results below will demonstrate this immediately. The CWA format was created by Master of Wine and sensory specialist Tim Hanni MW, G.M. “Pooch” Pucilowski, who ran the California state wine competition for 25 years, and Aaron Kidder, proprietor

CWA team: G.M. “Pooch” Pucilowski, Tim Hanni MW, Aaron Kidder and Chris Cutler.

Tim Hanni MW with Christine Trice, social phenom and creator of the website, “OMG I so need a glass of wine or I’m gonna sell my kids.” www.omgisoneedaglassofwine.com.

of Kidder Family Winery and a software and IT specialist. Chris Cutler, a technology, wine marketing and social media specialist, joined the team in 2014. The event is sponsored by the Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau, Lenox Glassware, Wine Shop at Home, Hint Water, 34 Degrees Crackers and Bridge Brands Chocolates. A portion of the proceeds goes to the Autism Center for Excellence in Sacramento, an organization dedicated to helping people who live in an entirely distinct extreme of the sensory spectrum. This year’s tasting covered 491 wines assessed by 144 specially selected consumer judges, who were supported by a team of nearly 75 local volunteers. It featured a judging methodology and assessment system developed and refined over the past five years in conjunction with Drs. Rie Ishii and Michael O’Mahony, and a team of their star sensory science students at University of California, Davis. As part of a new partnership with the Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau, 4,000 wine-loving consumers are expected to attend the awards ceremony being held on June 6, during the Grape Escape and CWA Awards. Nearly 50 wineries will be pouring and showcasing CWA award-winning wines. The Consumer Wine Awards also provides a foundation for conducting formal wine consumer research projects,

Food preparation for “Match Wine to the Diner, Not the Dinner” seminar led by Tim Hanni MW.

Tim Hanni, Master of Wine, teaches one of the many sessions available.

which are at the core of both their methods for assessing the wine as well as creating innovative ways to segment the wine market and promote wine enjoyment on a personal level. Tastings were first held in Lodi in March 2008, making 2015 the seventh annual event. Over 3,500 wines have been evaluated with more than 600 consumers participating in the evaluations. The consumer evaluator selection process is also part of a consumer wine preferences study, with data collected from over 6,000 wine consumers via the consumer evaluator application. This is part of the extra value to wineries. A formal, 36-page study of preferences, attitudes and behaviors was published in 2010 and is available at www.timhanni.com. Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

For a full listing of award winning wines, go to www.consumerwineawards.com.

BEST OF SHOW WINES Quady Winery Essencia Orange Muscat, 2013 California, $24.99, Harvey Posert Memorial Award Best of Show Sweet Wine, Best of Sustainably Grown Grapes d’Art Wines Zinfandel, 2012 Lodi, $24.00, Best of Class – Zinfandel, Best of Show Red Wine Hoyt Family Vineyards Chardonnay, 2013 California, $36.00, Best of Class – Chardonnay, Best of Show White Wine

BEST OF THE MIDWEST Oliver Winery Concord Soft Red American, $7.50, Best of the Midwest, Best Bargain Wines (George Taber Award)

BEST OF THE EAST COAST Gray Ghost Vineyards Adieu Vidal Blanc Sweet/Late-Harvest 2014 Virginia, $28.00, Gold – Best of the East Coast

BEST OF CLASS AWARDS 3 Girls Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Lodi, $13.99, Gold Best of Class – Cabernet Sauvignon Barefoot Pink Moscato California, $6.99, Gold Best of Class – Blush & Rosé Cedar Creek Winery (Wisconsin), Pinot Grigio 2014 American, $10.00, Gold Best of Class – Pinot Grigio Cupcake Vineyards Muscat Sparkling 2014 Moscato Italy D’ Asti, $14.00, Gold Best of Class – Sparkling Wines Forest Glen CA 5192 Chardonnay 2013 California, $11.99, Gold Best of Class – White Wines Fresno State Winery 2012, Touriga San Joaquin County, $12.95, Gold Best of Class – Red Vinifera Gallo Family Vineyards Merlot California, Silver Best of Class – Merlot Hagafen CA 5336 Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Napa Valley, $24.00, Gold Best of Class – Sauvignon Blanc

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Lewis Grace Barbera 2012 Amador County, $27.00, Gold Best of Class – Barbera Macchia Dubious Petite Sirah 2013 California, $24.00, Gold Best of Class – Petite Sirah Nello Olivo Wines Toscanello, 2012 Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot El Dorado County, $54.00, Silver Best of Class – Red Blends Silver Mountain Vineyards CA 5091 Pinot Noir 2012, Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands, $40.00, Gold Best of Class – Pinot Noir

BEST BARGAIN WINES – GEORGE TABER AWARDS Gallo Family Vineyards Black Muscat Pink Moscato California, $4.99, Best Bargain Wines (George Taber Awards) Green Eyes Muscat, Medium Sweet 2013 Pink Moscato, California, $8.00, Gold Best Bargain Wines (George Taber Awards)

PLATINUM AWARDS Graveyard Vineyards Deliverance California, chocolate-flavored port-style fortified wine, $28.00 Ripken Vineyards and Winery, 2008, Souzao, Touriga National Lodi, $20.00 Windmill Ridge Winery, Doce Fim, fortified wine, 2007, Touriga, Souzao Tracy Hills, $42.00 Brazin Zinfandel, 2012 Lodi, $16.99 Bushong Sweet Ellusions, fortified wine California, $43.00 La Porta Del Paradiso, Gianelli Vineyards, varietal fortified dessert wine, 2012 Montepulciano, Tuolumne County, $35.00 Ambitious Zinfandel, Macchia, 2013 California, $18.00

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M o r to n â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s T h e S te a k h o u s e g i v e s g u e s t s t h e o p p o r t u n i t y to t r y

High-End Wines

By the Glass w i t h o u t e ve r p u l l i n g th e co r k f ro m t he b ott l e .

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If you thought you would never be able to try that $250 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon with your steak, think again. Morton’s The Steakhouse is giving guests the opportunity to do just that by offering five ultra premium wines by the glass. Normally, restaurants shy away from offering expensive wines by the glass, as the cost of waste is too high. When a bottle of wine is opened, on average, the restaurant has three days to sell the rest of the bottle before oxidation occurs and the wine becomes unpalatable. To be the first large national restaurant concept to launch a continual, super premium wine by-the-glass program, Morton’s The Steakhouse implemented a system so that the sommelier never even has to pull the cork from the bottle. Morton’s The Steakhouse equipped their restaurants with the Coravin Wine Access System, which is a proprietary system of Coravin Inc. that allows the wine to be poured from a bottle without ever pulling a cork, thus saving the wine from being exposed to oxygen and preventing the oxidation process from occurring. “We are excited to partner with Landry’s on developing a unique wine by-the-glass program that offers premium wines to guests at Morton’s The Steakhouse. Together, we are revolutionizing the dining experience and transforming the way wine is served, experienced, and enjoyed,” said Kareem Ghobrial, director for North American Sales at Coravin, Inc.

forward opulence from first to last glass of our 2012 JUSTIN Isosceles blend is assured – and curiosity rewarded. We are excited to offer our finest wine with the extraordinary culinary and service excellence of Morton’s,” said Baldwin. “We feel the Coravin system helps to elevate Morton’s wine programs to a new level and are extremely excited to offer this added value to our guests,” said Tylor Field, III, Landry’s divisional vice president of Wine and Spirits.

Morton’s The Steakhouse photos courtesy of Landry’s Inc.

One of the five highend wines being offered at Morton’s The Steakhouse is the Justin “Isosceles” Red, 2012, from Paso Robles by winery founder, Justin Baldwin. “With use of Coravin technology, a more true and consistent expression of our 34 years of effort cannot be made! Rich, fruit-

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

LESSER-KNOWN GLOBAL SPIRITS TAKE THE DRINK MENU TO THE NEXT LEVEL In today’s global, always-connected, food-driven culture, it can be hard to surprise consumers. Foodies often feel like they have seen and done it all – what’s left to discover? And yet, still only a small percentage of international ingredients and flavors have cracked the U.S. market. Few consumers have heard of spirits like poitín, horilka and kvass. But these types of global ingredients are exactly what restaurants and bars are seeking out, trying to discover the next hot cuisine or flavor. In fact, the drink menu has long been one of the most international parts of any menu, being home to Irish whiskeys, Mexican tequilas, Russian vodkas and cocktails like Italian Bellinis and Spanish sangrias. This makes the drink menu a natural for “next level” flavors – the types of innovative, lesser-known spirits that on-trend bartenders are seeking out to set themselves apart, yet with relatable elements that make them less of a leap for the consumer. Let’s take a trip around the world to discover innovative spirits that can freshen up any drink program.

Mexico and Latin America In recent years, spirits from Mexico and Latin America (beyond the well-known tequilas and rums) have been particularly successful in making the leap to 76

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U.S. menus, due both to the regions’ proximity to the United States and the popularity of Latin flavors on American menus. Spirits like pisco, essential to the pisco sour, and cachaça, the main ingredient in the caipirinha, have already made inroads on drink menus in this country. According to a last year’s issue of Datassential’s World Bites publication covering Brazil, over a third of U.S. consumers want to try a caipirinha at a restaurant. And now bartenders and drink program managers are seeking out even lesser-known flavors, like sotol, distilled from the wild desert spoon plant in northern Mexico, which takes 12-15 years to mature. Produced in the same manner as tequila and mezcal, sotol’s flavor is often described as smoky, fruity and grassy. At The Original Ninfa’s, in Houston, Texas, it’s used in place of tequila in the Sotol Margarita, with Hacienda de Chihuahua sotol plata, fresh lime juice and guava.

Western Europe A number of lesser-known European spirits can help take already-popular drink options to the next level. Ireland’s poitín (pronounced “poteen” or “pocheen”) is often called “Irish moonshine,” putting it at the intersection of two hot drink trends – whiskey

and moonshine. In fact, poitín was illegal to produce in Ireland until 1997. Now that the ban has been lifted, a number of whiskey distillers produce premium versions of this clear spirit, which goes into drinks like the Proper Prairie at New York’s Rotisserie Georgette, which combines Dickel white corn whisky, poitín, Cocchi Americano and celery bitters. French Cognac, meanwhile, can be found on 44 percent more drink menus compared to four years ago, according to Datassential’s MenuTrends. Yet Armagnac, which predates Cognac by about 200 years, is far less ubiquitous even though it is distilled from the same grapes and is also aged in oak barrels. But with its similarities to Cognac, lower price point and fuller flavor, Armagnac is often described as a spirit that Americans should be drinking. The same could be said for calvados, the apple brandy distilled from apple cider in France’s Lower Normandy region. Hard ciders have grown 700 percent on drink menus in the past four years, and oakaged calvados could translate hard cider’s popularity to the cocktail menu.

The Netherlands and Eastern Europe Recently, a number of publications have celebrated a gin revival as the next spirit trend; in fact, gin is up 61 percent on drink menus over four years ago. Yet far fewer consumers are familiar with jenever, a precursor to gin that also owes its flavor to the juniper berry. Jenever is produced in “oude” (old) or “jonge” (young) varieties, though these names refer to whether traditional or modern distilling techniques are used, not the age of the spirit. Yet those distilling methods are still said to have an effect on the flavor: Old jenever is often described as smokier and maltier, while young jenever has a cleaner, lighter flavor. In the U.S., spicy flavors from around the world (sriracha, harissa) have been taking over menus, and the cocktail menu is no exception. Hot flavors like cayenne, chipotle, serrano, chili and habanero have all seen double-digit growth on cocktail menus in the past year. But Ukraine has been far ahead of this trend: Honey and red pepper is a classic flavor combination in horilka, often called “Ukrainian vodka.” In fact, honey is also one of the top-growing flavors on cocktail menus, up 25 percent in the past year.

Asia and Russia While almost every spirit-maker is trying to break into the Chinese market, Chinese baijiu producers have been working to expand overseas, particularly in the U.S. This grain-based, high-proof spirit (with a reputation for being an acquired taste) is widely considered to be the most consumed spirit in the world, and is available in a variety of strengths and flavors. At San Francisco’s Chino, the Chinatown Iced Tea combines baijiu with almond milk, passion fruit, Lipton tea and lemon. And while baijiu may be the most consumed spirit in the world, South Korea’s Jinro Soju regularly tops Drinks International’s list of the top-selling spirit brands in the world. In fact, more than 3 billion bottles of this ricedistilled, slightly sweet spirit are sold in South Korea each year. The low alcohol content has helped soju make inroads in the U.S., where it is often a go-to choice for restaurants without a full liquor license. Coupled with the rise in popularity of Korean BBQ and fusion cuisine, soju is up 38 percent on drink menus in the past year. In Russia, kvass is a similarly low alcohol drink. In fact, it straddles the line between beer and soda, with an alcohol content that typically falls between 0.5% and 2.2%, and it’s often sold to all ages from trucks and street vendors in Russia. The strong, sour, fizzy beverage is fermented from grains or bread (often rye bread), which is combined with fruit or herbal flavorings. A number of U.S. producers have created their own versions, buoyed by the success of kombucha – Coca-Cola even began selling its own version in the New York market in 2010. North Hollywood, California’s Talisman makes its own house-made kvass, described as a “traditional Russian soft drink.”

Think Globally This is just a small taste of the lesser-known global spirits that can spice up a drink menu. Look out for spirits like Bolivian singani, Swedish bäsk, slivovitz from Central and Eastern Europe, kumis from Central Asia and Japanese shochu, to name just a few. These innovative, unusual global flavors can surprise and excite consumers all over again. If you really want to wake up their taste buds, try Hungarian pálinka, which The New York Times described as a “slap in the face.”

This article has been provided by Maeve Webster, senior director, and Mike Kostyo, publications manager, of Datassential, a leading consulting firm and supplier of trends, analysis and concept testing for the food industry.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

ark Crisler founded Trellis Wine Group in June 2005, with the mission to introduce artisan and family-owned wineries and spirits to national account restaurants and hotel chains. In the couple of years preceding starting the Trellis Wine Group, while he was traversing the country representing Robert Mondavi Winery to national accounts, Mark was hearing a recurring question: “What (wine) do you have that you are not trying to sell to everyone else?” He began to wonder why this question was being asked. As Mark recalls, “I took 20 nationally-mandated wine lists, from the Ritz-Carlton to Olive Garden and many points in between. I typed them all in the same font and then laid them out on a long table to see them all. Then, using highlighters, I colored in each wine brand that was same in individual colors. Taking a step back, I saw what they were talking about. All the lists were dominated by only a few wine brands. The national account wine lists had become homogenized.” Mark was

also aware that consumers were becoming much more wine savvy, and that they wanted new “discovery” wines when dining out. So, the light bulb became very bright that day for Mark. Someone needed to bring the artisan, familyowned wine back to national accounts. With 25 years of industry experience behind him, Mark decided it was time to form the Trellis Wine Group, with the mission to help guide and grow artisan wines and spirits into the national restaurant and hotel companies’ wine and spirit programs. Why name it Trellis? Mark explains, “The trellis symbolizes the structure to help guide the artisan in a path that will enable them to grow steadily and to ultimately bear quality fruit.”

“The trellis symbolizes the structure to help guide the artisan in a path that will enable them to grow steadily and to ultimately bear quality fruit.”

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Kelsey Ivor, ambassador of Wine & Spirits Intelligence; Mark Crisler, founder and chief “everything” officer; and Brandon Crisler, director of Beverage Arrangement

Reflecting back over the last decade, Mark has seen the needle shifting to a desire to feature more authentic producers with a true “sense of place.” As he says, “Consumers want to know where their items are coming from and that they came from someone or something authentic. This is especially true with newer millennial consumers, who are having a profound effect on the same desires by their older friends and family.”

Sonoma Carneros, Mark and his wife are the emptynest parents of three young adults. Their son, Brandon, joined the company in 2013, bringing the family element to the company. Mark is a sommelier certified by The Court of Master Sommeliers and is working on other wine accreditations to further his lifelong journey of appreciating wines of the world.

Trellis Wine Group is uniquely positioned to find and bring premium artisan producers to the many dynamic national restaurant and hotel groups across the country, providing their customers with more quality, authentic choices. Mark has two employees, Kelsey and Brandon. Each plays a significant role in the company, helping him reach more customers and expand the availability of artisan producers to national accounts. Living in

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

RESPONSIBLE ALCOHOL SERVICE QUIZ

TIPS® (Training for Intervention ProcedureS) is

a dynamic, skills-based training program designed

Employees and managers who participate in TIPS are able to:

to prevent intoxication, drunk driving and underage

• Spot underage drinkers and prevent sales to minors.

drinking by enhancing the fundamental “people skills”

• Recognize signs of intoxication.

of servers, sellers and consumers of alcohol. TIPS

• Effectively intervene to prevent problem situations.

gives individuals the knowledge and confidence they

• Handle refusal situations with greater confidence.

need to recognize potential alcohol-related problems and intervene to prevent alcohol-related tragedies.

To learn more, visit WW W.GETTIPS.COM.

Here are some sample questions from the TIPS program. Do you know the correct answers? If so, email them to inthemix@gettips.com. Subscribers with the correct answers will be entered into a drawing to win an iPad Mini. Be sure to provide your contact information and enter “Responsible Alcohol Service Quiz” in the subject line. 1. W hat is the most important thing you can do to assess each guest’s level of intoxication?

3. D ocumentation is an essential part of responsible alcohol service because:

A. B. C. D.

Quiz them on their day. Talk to other people about them. Count their drinks. Observe their behavior.

2. A guest’s blood alcohol concentration (BAC) level will be different: A. B. C. D.

Every time they drink. When they switch from beer to liquor. When they drink at lunch instead of happy hour. When there’s a full moon.

A. E stablishments that use documentation are less likely to be sued. B. It is required by federal law to maintain an Incident Record Logbook. C. D ocumentation is one of an establishment’s best defenses in a liquor liability lawsuit. D. A written record of an incident will clearly identify the guilty party. 4. A one-ounce shot of 100-proof spirits, 5 ounces of wine and 12 ounces of beer all contain approximately ______ of pure alcohol. A. B. C. D. E.

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1 oz 2 oz 1/4 oz 3/4 oz 1/2 oz

5. I t is important for servers and sellers of alcohol to understand that: A. T here is only one correct way to handle a situation. B. They don’t know enough to handle difficult situations alone. C. As long as they keep track of a guest’s approximate BAC, they will be able to prevent a problem. D. There are many effective ways to handle a situation. 6. A person who suddenly becomes relaxed or more talkative may be displaying:

A. I ntervention techniques. B. Slowed reactions.

C. Loss of coordination. D. Poor judgment. E. Lowered inhibitions.

7. W hen attempting to cut off an angry and intoxicated guest, the server should:

A. T hreaten to call the police. B. Tell the patron that he/she is drunk and must leave immediately. C. P olitely but firmly state that no more alcohol will be served. D. Avoid the patron entirely. E. Give the patron whatever they want until help arrives.

8. O ne way to help ensure the safety of an intoxicated patron is to: A. B. C. D.

Walk the intoxicated patron to their car. Enlist the help of their sober friends. Have them walk home. Move them to a quiet corner if they pass out.

9. W hile some states have specific “Dram Shop” laws, all states can hold an establishment responsible for an alcohol-related incident under: A. B. C. D.

No fault laws. Health codes. Common negligence laws. Equal rights laws.

E. Traffic laws.

10. How does tolerance relate to BAC?

A. T here is no relationship between tolerance and BAC. B. People with high tolerances have lower BAC levels. C. P eople with low tolerances can lower their BAC levels faster. D. P eople with high tolerances have higher BAC levels.

THIS EXAM DOES NOT CERTIFY YOU IN THE TIPS PROGRAM. It is merely a small sample of exam questions that may be presented in a TIPS session.You can obtain TIPS certification by attending an instructor-led session, becoming certified as a TIPS trainer (enabling you to train other people), or completing the online eTIPS course. For more information on any of these options, visit TIPS online at www.gettips.com or call 800-438-8477.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

BIZ MIX

A re-cap of this spring’s activities in the on-premise national account business world.

CORE PARTY For the fifth year in a row, VIBE (Very Important Business Executives) honored CORE (Children of Restaurant Employees) as their official charity of the conference. CORE started out its week in Las Vegas with the third annual “Giving Back to our Own” cocktail party. This year’s party was a HUGE success! Thanks to its sponsors and individual ticket sales, CORE raised $68,000 from the event! The View staff at The Palms had such a connection to CORE and their mission that they made a donation of their own this year. The event wouldn’t have been possible without Gold Event Sponsor Boston Beer Company and these additional Event Sponsors: Banfi Vintners, Beam Suntory, E. & J. Gallo, IMI Agency, Monin, Napa Technology, Proximo Spirits, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Stoli, Tito’s Handmade Vodka and Young’s Market Company. During the rest of the week, CORE held its fifth annual silent auction. They had a record 91 items donated and raised $32,000 at this year’s auction! CORE’s week was topped off with the acceptance of a $5,000 check from The Hagar Family Foundation presented by Sammy Hagar, a $5,000 check from Bar Rescue’s Jon Taffer, and a $600 donation resulting from three of The Modern Mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim’s famous Negronis being auctioned off for $200 apiece.

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BIZ MIX Summer 2015 â&#x20AC;˘ itmmag.com

BIZ MIX

VIBE CONFERENCE

VIBE recently held its conference at the Palms Casino and Resort in Las Vegas. As always, the conference was packed with general session presentations, workshops and plenty of networking cocktail hours.

General Session HIGHLIGHTS

A. Tony Abou-Ganim, master of ceremonies, opening the conference and welcoming the attendees. B. Donna Hood Crecca from Technomic, Inc. with her presentation, Translating Trends into Opportunities. C. Sammy Hagar gives Lauren LaViola a check for CORE from his Hagar Family Foundation. D. Stan Novak and panel, How They Did It. E. Joey Reiman, keynote speaker from BrightHouse, with his presentation, The New Vibe in Business. F. Larry McGinn, president of IMI Agency, addresses the group about CORE. G. Panel of David Commerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s presentation, Thumbs Up or Thumbs Down.

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HIGHLIGHTS A. Hotels: Understanding the New Reality : D onna Hood-Crecca (Moderator) Technomic, Inc.

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Workshops

: B ob Midyette (Panel) Formerly Intercontinental Hotels Group : Emily Wines (Panel) Kimpton Hotels : Lou Trope (Panel) Destination Hotels & Resorts B. Better Taps, Better Beer, Better Profits : S tephen Beaumont (Moderator) Beaumont Drinks

: Patrick Kirk (Panel) Buffalo Wild Wings : M arc Sawyer (Panel) World of Beer Franchising : M arty Schuster (Panel) Siebel Institute of Technology : C ian B. Hickey (Panel) Micro-Matic C. What’s New on Drink Menus? Calorie Counts. : D arren Tristano (Moderator) Technomic, Inc

: D aniel Hoffman (Panel) Marriott International : M aeve Pesquera (Panel) Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar : M ary Melton (Panel) PF Chang’s D. Kegs to Coravin – The New World of Wine Delivery Systems : G eorge Miliotes (Moderator) Darden Restaurants, Inc. : A rmando Luis (Panel) Vinfinity Systems, LLC.

: P aige Peterson (Panel) Coravin, Inc : J ordan Kivalstadt (Panel) Free Flow Wines E. Designing the Perfect Cocktail : M ichael “Bumby” Bombard (Moderator) Straight Up Beverage Solutions : C had Soloman (Panel) Midnight Rambler : J ohn Miles (Panel) Steelite International

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BIZ MIX 86

Shots from the many cocktail parties at VIBE!

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STOLI’S HOLY GRAIL Stoli held its second annual Holy Grail cocktail party at the RX Boiler Room at Mandalay Bay Shoppes during VIBE week in Las Vegas. The gathering included some of the most famous mixologists in the country, who made original Stoli cocktails for everyone.

BIZ MIX

A. Invitation to the event. B. The bartending crew who made the whole night magical! C. Tony Abou-Ganim serves up one of his libations to the guests. D. The star attractions behind the stick: Dale DeGroff, Salvatore Calabrese, Francesco Lafranconi and Tony Abou-Ganim. C

E. The sponsors of the event: Chris Coursen of Hospitality Glass, Mark Corcoran of Stoli USA, with Francesco Lafranconi of SWS.

F. Don Billings, publisher; Helen Benefield Billings, hospitality and travel writer; and Mike Raven, editor – all of in the Mix magazine. G. Guests enjoying the Stoli cocktails. H. The Martinis play for the partygoers.

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

BIZ MIX

EPIC

Jen Robinson, Duchess of the Pineapple Group LLC, throws a hell of a party and her production at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s EPIC, held at a grand villa, was no exception. There was plenty to do at this shindig!

A. Invitation to the event. B. Brian Yost of LiveNation, Diane Svehlak of Dress The Drink and Brian Siep of LiveNation.

C. Left to right: A representative of Boisset, Jean-Charles Boisset of Raymond Vineyards, Brian Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Rourke with Cardinal Glass, Nick Moezidis with Napa Technology and another Boisset representative. D. Helen and Don Billings, founder of IMI Agency and publisher of in the Mix. E. Black Jack was a big hit! F. Stuart Roy with Southern Wine and Spirits, Jen Robinson, Kevin Ball with American Casino and Resorts, and Ray Welch with Thirstea Corp.

G. The girls from Jagermeister were in their most fabulous party outfits. H. Phillip Raimondo with Beam Suntory entertains with his piano expertise and gets the crowd singing along.

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NATIONAL RESTAURANT SHOW AND BAR AT NRA SHOW

BIZ MIX

The National Restaurant Association (NRA) is the largest foodservice trade association in the world by membership, supporting nearly 500,000 restaurant businesses. This year’s NRA Show was a great success again. Exhibits, celebrity chefs, world culinary showcase and specialty pavilions are just a sampling of the offerings at this year’s show. BAR15 is an interactive experience located under the same roof at the NRA Show and gives patrons a chance to explore ways to perfect their bar with hands-on sampling and demonstrations.

A. Just one of the beautiful cocktails shown at the show. B. BAR at NRA Show keynote speaker Sally Smith, president and CEO of Buffalo Wild Wings.

C. The floor at the show. D. Anne Burrell giving lessons at the World Culinary Showcase. E. Working up cocktails at the Demo Lounge at the BAR show. H

F. Opening day at the NRA Show. G. Kathy Casey of Kathy Casey Liquid Kitchen® speaks to the patrons at BAR15. H. Mini-seminars at the BAR15 show

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

BIZ MIX

EPIC CHICAGO Epic Events wrapped up its seventh anniversary with a huge salute to the restaurant industry during a custom “BLT” event in Chicago, which took place at the same time as the National Restaurant Show and BAR15 in May. The custom event was not your typical bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich – it was Epic’s version, which translated into a Black Tie, Lace or Toga celebration. The event was the largest to date, with more than 2,500 restaurateurs and industry professionals attending, and was held at John Barleycorn. Epic has become known throughout the industry for its out-of-the-box opportunities to bring suppliers and customers together in unique settings and has rapidly become a “must attend” event.

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Summer 2015 â&#x20AC;˘ itmmag.com

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Continued from page 60.

Next time you drink a pop (soda for us Southerners), notice that you basically form a seal with your mouth and you kind of half suck it out. That means you don’t get air, which means you don’t get aroma. What this can does is, when you drink from it, it opens up your mouth so you get air intake – so you get the aromatics of the beer in your drinking experience. If you notice, it’s more like drinking from a glass; you’re not sucking it out. Yeah, that was a year of engineering.

on the front of your tongue, where the sweetness is most easily tasted, so you get the body and the sweetness of the malt before the spiciness and bitterness of the hops kick in. We lasered in nucleation sites on the bottom of the glass to release bubbles, like a Champagne glass, so you keep a little foam all the way to the bottom. This bowl, it turns out, is the best shape to capture, concentrate and focus the aroma of the beer. Actually it looks a lot

Everything seems to take a year.

It does, but we have a lot going on. We had a lot of false starts with it. (He goes on to explain they used a design firm they have used for other projects called IDEO, the same firm that developed Apple’s mouse.)

How about the Sam glass?

The glass had the same issue. This was the first beer glass that was designed around the function of taste. Beer glasses are designed to be pretty or interesting, as opposed to wine glasses, which were designed to change the sensory experience. Everybody knows if you drink a good wine, you drink it from the proper glass; you don’t drink it from a pint glass. Same thing goes for beer. If you’re going to drink a good beer, you’re not going to optimize the taste of it from a pint glass. We designed a glass around the Sam Adams Boston Lager flavor experience. We had three sensory scientists that I worked with to come up with this glass. It’s an unusual shape. It’s the first glass designed to optimize the flavor of a beer, applying the wine glass principle to beer. It has things like an outward curved lip that puts the beer

was the first beer glass that “ This was designed around the function of taste. Beer glasses are designed to be pretty or interesting, as opposed to wine glasses, which were designed to change the sensory experience.

”

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

like Riedel’s sommelier glass. Almost the same size and shape, ‘cause that actually turns out to be a really good size and shape for capturing and concentrating aromas. It even has this turbulator – there’s an internal bead; you feel it? Like a bump? That creates turbulation in the beer. It flows over it like a ski jump and that turbulence releases carbon dioxide just as the beer hits your mouth. The CO2 will then carry aromatics into your retro-nasal and nasal, where you smell. So the taste experience gets a little amplification.

There’s a lot to that little glass.

someone over-ordered or the beer sat on a display for six months. None of that matters to the consumer. To the consumer, the name on the bottle is everything. We have taken this seriously. It isn’t enough to say I’ve made great beer and I put it on a truck, and if the consumers didn’t get great beer, then that’s somebody else’s problem. Because as a brewer, you actually do have a lot of influence over what happens to your beer. So we were the first brewer to put legible freshness dating on beer. It used to be, even today, many brewers don’t make it easy for the consumers to know if the beer is stale. In fact, Budweiser is now finally, after 20 years, putting true freshness dating on the beer.

Yeah, like I said, there were three PhDs – two in sensory sciences and one in materials engineering – to actually produce it. And now, interesting but Riedel really wasn’t involved in beer glasses before this. After this came out, I think it sparked their interest in developing beer glasses and Georg Riedel himself actually came to this brewery and worked with us to develop a Riedel glass for a very special beer we make called Utopias. Utopias is the strongest true beer in the world; it weighs in at about 60 proof. And it sells for about $200.00 a bottle. Georg Riedel had some, and he offered to come to our brewery and design a special glass for it. I think that was the first custom beer glass. It looks somewhat like a bourbon or Cognac glass. Last question: You have a system with your people to help make sure the beer on the shelf or in the bar or restaurant is fresh. Can you dwell on that?

I feel like the consumer holds the

brewer responsible for the quality of the beer in their glass. And it doesn’t matter if the retailer left the keg out in the sun for a week (laughing) or the wholesaler didn’t rotate properly, Utopias along with the specially designed Riedel glass 96

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It used to be a “born on” date, but it would give you a date, say February 15th, and then say it was good for say 110 days. Huh? It’s May 20th – is that beer still fresh?

You gotta do the math (laughing).

Yeah, I would struggle with that. When you look at our can, it just says September 15, 2015. That’s the expiration date. And on the label of every bottle it says, for brewery fresh taste, enjoy before, say, September 15th. So you know whether you’re getting a fresh beer or not. We spend about $5 million a year on taking back old beer, destroying old beer, buying it back from wholesalers and so on. We budget for it. To me, it’s an ingredient and quality just like hops and malt. It’s part of the cost of guaranteeing the customer a great, fresh Sam Adams.

years later we’re still “ Thirty-one innovating, raising standards and continuing to lead. And having fun doing it!

”

We train all our salespeople to do draft quality audits. All our salespeople can go into a bar and look at the draft system for problems. They’re trained to know what to taste for, how to evaluate it and if there’s a problem, to then diagnose it and fix it, or call a draft tech or someone to get to the bottom of it. Every account that sells a significant amount of Sam Adams is going to get one of our people in there on some kind of rotation. (He goes on to explain the production of short runs and the Freshest Beer Program for wholesalers to reduce inventory backlogs. They have also reduced the shelf life by a month, to three months on IPAs instead of four. All these procedures add up to guaranteed freshness.) Thirty-one years later we’re still innovating, raising standards and continuing to lead. And having fun doing it! I would get bored if I wasn’t doing that. Thanks so much for your time. Can I get a picture with you before I leave?

You bet! Let’s go into the brewery.

Cheers!

Summer 2015 • itmmag.com

Trinchero Family Estates Presents: by Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS

SUMMERTIME SIPPERS

ACROSS

DOWN

Slight sweet style of gin