Vol. 42 Winter 2014
I N N OVAT E
I N D U L G E
E X P L O R E
WOMEN OF AN INFLUENTIAL NATURE
Tony Abou-Ganim | Las Vegas, NV The Modern Mixologist IWSB attendee since 2008
And if your business is behind the bar, it’s your Show too. The International Wine, Spirits & Beer Event at NRA Show® connects restaurateurs like you with hundreds of big-name and indie producers, emerging trends, pairings, demos, networking and education. This is where you’ll find ways to perfect a drink menu that advances your brand—and a bar that works harder for your bottom line.
Find your world at IWSB. Register now* at WineSpiritsBeer.org and SAVE MORE THAN 30% for a limited time. *IWSB registration includes full access to NRA Show, co-located at McCormick Place, May 16-19. ©2014 National Restaurant Association. All rights reserved.
2
in the Mix Magazine
MAY 17-18 | McCormick Place, Chicago, IL
This winter we focus on all those fabulous females in the business, with plenty of features and three amazing interviews. “Women of an Influential Nature” delves into the wine end of the business. Some of the best winemakers, managers, writers and experts are all in this biographic article. Brittany Chardin pens a tribute to the women in the liquor business, its history and interviews with some of today’s leading ladies. “Raising the Steaks” is a remarkable salute to the first lady of steaks, Ruth Fertel, and the legendary empire she built, Ruth’s Chris Steak House.
Here are some other highlights of this season’s issue: Tony Abou-Ganim’s character, George, goes in search of the best eggnogs, including a trip to San Juan, Puerto Rico to discover the local version, coquito! Don and Helen Billings go on their annual trip to wine country and discover all kinds of treasures in Napa Valley, in “Making the Rounds.” Discover what everyone wants when it comes to good service in Christine Heller’s “Designing Bar Service.” “Alexander Valley’s Crown Jewels” by Ed Korry, CHE CSS CWE, unveils this picturesque AVA’s abundant availability of world-class wines. Don’t miss the recipes in “Winter Cocktails” as well as four killer recipes for everyone’s favorite, bourbon pie!
IN THE MIX Dog’s name: Chief Border Collie, aged 6 Owners: Michael and Paula Raven
Favorite toy: Medium squeaky Kong balls, only Favorite pastime: Going to the cabin
Every dog lover will enjoy this pictorial book review of Wine Dogs California. Likes, dislikes and lovable quirks of some of California’s cutest winery pooches are highlighted, as they are “interviewed” in this photographic sampling from the book. I was so jealous, I arranged an interview with one of my own four dogs.
Pet peeve: Motorcycles
Obsession: Playing ball and sleeping on the bed Known accomplices: His kennel-mates, Betty, Katie and Nicki, and our 6 cats
Hope you enjoy this issue. Have fun, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year! Mike Raven Editor, in the Mix
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
3
Publisher's Letter
In the spirit of the season, we must not forget …
A Soldier’s Poem It is the Soldier, not the minister, who has given us freedom of religion. It is the Soldier, not the reporter, who has given us freedom of the press. It is the Soldier, not the poet, who has given us freedom of speech. It is the Soldier, not the campus organizer, who has given us freedom to protest. It is the Soldier, not the lawyer, who has given us the right to a fair trial. It is the Soldier, not the politician, who has given us the right to vote. It is the Soldier who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag, who allows the protester to burn the flag. – C HARLES M. PROVINCE Firebase116.org
There were a lot of things I could have talked about in my publisher’s letter, but I decided to focus on the fact that we are in turbulent times but also that the upcoming holidays are a time to rejoice and give thanks for what we have accomplished and to help others. We also need to reflect on the contributions of our fighting men and women, who sacrifice so much to ensure that we stay free. We owe a debt of gratitude to those who have paid the ultimate price for our nation, as well as for those who are blessed to return from the battlefield unscathed. War is politics for everyone but the warrior. To promote the spirit of giving, I would like to share with you two organizations that help our military personnel as they return from active duty, as a way of thanking them for defending our country. There are others as well. Please help by volunteering or contributing, if you can.
www.workvesselsforvets.org www.woundedwarriorsproject.org
Don Billings, Publisher
An optimist stays up until midnight to see the new year in. A pessimist stays up to make sure the old year leaves. - BILL VAUGHN 4
in the Mix Magazine
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
5
64
INNOVATE 20 Take 5 – Elizabeth Vianna, winemaker and general manager of Chimney Rock Winery 22. Women of an Influential Nature by Mike Raven
52
women of an
Influential nature 22
36. Spotlight On – Liz Lister is the director of National Accounts West for Stoli USA 40. Women in Spirits by Brittany Chardin 52. Interview with Maeve Pesquera – a dialog with the national director of wine at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 64. Raising the Steaks – Saluting the First Lady of Steaks, Ruth Fertel of Ruth’s Chris Steak House 88. Technology – IMANAGEPROMO™ by Adam Billings 90. Legal Journal – How low will the NTSB go with the legal blood alcohol limit? 98.
6
ine Dogs California, a book review W by Don Billings
in the Mix Magazine
98
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
7
96
60
INDULGE 60.
106
Bourbon Holiday Pie Recipes
92. Cold Weather Cocktails by Maeve Webster and Mike Kostyo 96. Frozen Assets – All about artisanal ice by Mike Ryan 106. Winter Cocktails – Recipes for the season
92 8
in the Mix Magazine
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
9
80
72
EXPLORE 14. The Adventures of George: Egg-nogging by Tony Abou-Ganim 72. Making the Rounds With Helen Benefield Billings – Napa on my Mind 80. Alexander Valley’s Crown Jewels by Ed Korry, CHE, CSS, CWE
14
84. Designing Bar Service by Christine Heller
84 10
in the Mix Magazine
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
11
THREE OLIVES® VODKA. 40% ALC/VOL. (80 PROOF). DISTILLED FROM GRAIN. ©2014 PROXIMO SPIRITS, JERSEY CITY, NJ. PLEASE DRINK THREE OLIVES® VODKA RESPONSIBLY.
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Tony Abou-Ganim, The Modern Mixologist, is an accomplished bar chef and consultant who has created several original cocktail recipes including the Cable Car, Sunsplash, and Starlight. He has recently authored his second book Vodka Distilled (Agate Surrey).
Brittany Chardin is an award-winning cocktail and spirits writer and Head Shaker at Movers & Shakers Beverage Consultants, Inc. She also serves on the board of directors of the United States Bar tenders’ guild as VP of the Southern Region.
PUBLISHER DON BILLINGS E D I TOR I A L A N D D E S I GN E D I TO R M ic h a e l R ave n D E S I G N E D B Y C o n n ie G u e s s , ThinkWorks Creative COPY EDITOR & PROOFREADER Christine Neal A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R C e le s t e D in o s ASSOCIATE EDITOR Helen Benefield Billings A DV E RT I S I N G S A L E S, m ike @ I T Mm a g. co m E D I TOR I A L A N D BU S I N E S S OFFIC E
Edward Korry is an Associate Professor and Chair of the Beverage & Dining Service Depar tment in the College of Culinary Ar ts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI. Edward carries many cer tifications as well as being the president of the Society of Wine Educators; and an executive board member of the US Bartenders Guild Master Accreditation program. Adam Billings is the Director of Creative, Technology and Innovation at iMi Agency, a full service marketing agency in the hospitality industry. He has been with iMi for 8 years and manages adult beverage programs for chain restaurant, hotel and concession clients.
Travel and Hospitality Industry writer Helen Benefield Billings has been with in the Mix since its inception in 2004. Helen lives in her native childhood home of Sea Island, GA, when not travelling or attending industry functions with her husband Don.
Christine Soviero Heller is a hospitality industry veteran with experience in sales and marketing. Following a long career at Bacardi USA, Inc., where she held positions in sales and marketing, culminating as a field marketing director for the National On-Premise channel. Christine has partnered with an architect design firm, SlateBlueDesign where she consults on industry related projects bringing brands to life, from the inside-out.
12
in the Mix Magazine
1 1 9 6 B u c k h e a d C ro s s in g Wo o d s t o c k , G A 3 0 1 8 9 7 7 0 .9 2 8 .1 9 8 0 F a x 7 7 0 .5 1 7 .8 8 4 9 m i ke @ I T Mm a g . c o m / i n t h e Mix Ma g a z i n e . c o m
i n t h e M i x m a g a z in e is p u b lis h ed q u ar ter ly by iM i A g e n c y. A ll r ig h ts re s e r ve d. No p ar t o f th i s p u b lic a tio n m ay b e re p r in ted o r o th er w i se re p ro du c e d w ith o u t w r itte n p er m i ssi o n fro m th e p u b lis h e r. i n t h e M i x is e x c lu s ive ly o p e r ated an d ow n ed by I n c e n tive M a r ke tin g I n c . Submissions: Incentive Marketing Inc. assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. Visit our website intheMixMagazine .com f o r g u ide lin e s o n h ow to s u b m i t i n q u i r i es o r c o n ta c t o u r e dito r s .
L a r r y M c G i n n , P a r tn e r C e l e s t e D i n o s , P ar tn e r D o n B i l l i n g s , Fo u n d ing Pa r tn e r
MADE WITH JUST TWO INGREDIENTS AND ONE AMBITION. TO MAKE THE WORLD’S BEST TASTING VODKA. All we’ve added to France’s finest wheat and spring water is the vision of our creator and cellar master, Francois Thibault.
SIP RESPONSIBLY WWW.GREYGOOSE.COM I FACEBOOK.COM/GREYGOOSE
©2013. GREY GOOSE, THE GEESE DEVICE AND TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS. IMPORTED BY GREY GOOSE IMPORTING COMPANY, CORAL GABLES, FL. VODKA 40% ALC. BY VOL.; FLAVORED VODKAS EACH 40% ALC. BY VOL. - DISTILLED FROM GRAIN.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
13
The Adventures of George by Tony Abou-Ganim
Christmas is not properly
observed unless you brew egg nogg for all comers; everybody calls on everybody else; and each call is celebrated by a solemn egg-nogging... ~ ENGLISH VISITOR IN 1866
eorge found himself in Portland, Oregon on a rather chilly winter’s eve and in need of some warming fortification. Not knowing his way around the city, he inquired with the concierge at the beautiful Monaco Hotel, where he might find a well-crafted libation. “I would definitely suggest Clyde Common. It’s walking distance and they make wonderful eggnog this time of year,” he replied.
14
in the Mix Magazine
Not needing any convincing, George got directions, bundled up with his scarf, hat and gloves and set out for the short walk to Clyde Common. Less than fifteen minutes later he found himself at the bar, and once inside, he found it warming in both temperature and character. The friendly hostess led him to an empty seat at the bar and presented him with a cocktail menu containing a wonderful selection of unique drinks.
The bartender arrived shortly, greeting him with a glass of water and a warm welcome. “So, the concierge at the hotel where I’m staying recommended I come here and said to try your eggnog,” George proclaimed. “Well, that was awfully nice of him. I’ll do my best not to disappoint. Yes, our eggnog that we have been serving for the past five years has become somewhat of a holiday tradition,” replied the gentleman behind the bar. The bartender set a cup of their frothy brew, dusted with freshly grated nutmeg, in front of George to try. He found it to be rich, spicy and strong, and it did warm him up like a blanket on the inside. “It’s delicious,” he said. “All I’ve ever had before was the kind you buy in the grocery store and this is so much better.”
“A lot of people have never tried homemade eggnog, and this is our twist on the classic recipe,” the bartender commented. “We use añejo tequila and amontillado sherry, and make it in the blender.”
“Well, it’s wonderful; I believe I’ll have another. By the way, what is the story behind eggnog anyway?” George inquired. “It’s difficult to point to its exact ancestry; however, the British of old enjoyed a beverage made of eggs and milk curdled with the addition of hot ale or wine called Posset. It is believed that taverns would have served it in a small wooden mug called a ‘noggin.’ Once it came to Colonial America, rum, known as ‘grog,’ became the recipe’s spirit of choice. Now, an egg drink
mixed with ‘grog’… ‘egg and grog’ … ‘eggnog’ … maybe. In any case, the general theme of this hearty drink has found its way into many different cultures, each with its own interpretation. There is the Mexican rompope, Peruvian biblia con pisco, and the Puerto Rican coquito, which is one of my favorites.” The man behind the stick was Jeffrey Morgenthaler, who obviously knows a thing or two about eggnog and was the creator of the wonderful variation George had just enjoyed. Now, thoroughly revived, he paid his tab, thanked Jeffery and headed back to his hotel to make plans for a visit to Puerto Rico to experience coquito. Exactly one week later, George landed in San Juan, Puerto Rico and checked into the Caribe Hilton Hotel, which just happens to be the alleged birthplace of the piña colada. After quickly unpacking, changing and making his way to the bar, George ordered their signature drink. “This is really good,” George stated. “Where would you recommend I go to find traditional coquito?” “Coquito?” asked the bartender. “Well, I would go down to Old Town, to a joint called the Parrot Club and ask for my friend, Emilio Figueroa,” he replied. George thanked the barman, finished his piña colada and headed out to the cabstand. After a short ride, he found himself standing in front of a colorful restaurant located at 363 Calle Fortaleza. Once inside, he was immediately taken by the colonial architecture of the building with its huge archways, tall beamed ceilings, colorful art and design. There was an amazing Latin jazz band at work, lending to the inviting vibe. He quickly found a spot at the bar and ordered one of their signature mojitos. Feeling a little hungry from his journey and feeding off the energy of the Parrot Club, George asked to see a menu. “I would like to start with the
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
15
“ We make them with rum, egg yolk, Coco Lopez coconut cream, sweetened condensed milk, cinnamon and vanilla. It is very popular drink during the holidays.�
16
in the Mix Magazine
ropa vieja nachos served with root vegetable chips, followed by roasted pork loin with sweet plantain and arroz mamposteao.”
“Another mojito?” the bartender inquired.
“I would like to try a coquito,” George replied. “I hear you make a great one.” “Coquito — wonderful!” replied the bartender. “We make them with rum, egg yolk, Coco Lopez coconut cream, sweetened condensed
milk, cinnamon and vanilla. It is very popular drink during the holidays.” George found the coquito to be rich, spicy, decadent and strong, with lush notes of coconut. “This is delicious,” George declared. “I’ll have another one and then the la cuenta, por favor.” George returned to his hotel with a newfound tradition that he was excited to bring home and share with his friends and family this holiday season.
Clyde Common Añejo Tequila & Amontillado Sherry Eggnog
Coquito
INGREDIENTS
1 (12 oz) can evaporated milk
12 large eggs
1 (14 oz) can sweetened condensed milk
18 oz (by volume) granulated sugar
1 (15 oz) can Coco Lopez coconut cream
3 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
2 egg yolks
12 oz añejo tequila
2 cups Puerto Rican light bodied rum
15 oz amontillado sherry
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
36 oz whole milk
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
24 oz heavy cream
2 cinnamon sticks
In a blender or stand mixer on low speed, beat eggs until smooth. Slowly add nutmeg and sugar until incorporated and dissolved. Slowly add sherry, tequila, milk and cream. Refrigerate overnight and serve in small chilled cups. Dust with freshly grated nutmeg before serving. Makes one gallon.
INGREDIENTS
Sliced vanilla bean Combine evaporated milk, condensed milk, egg yolks and coconut cream in a large blender and blend until well combined. Add the rum, vanilla extract and ground cinnamon, and blend in. Drop in cinnamon sticks and vanilla bean, replace lid and refrigerate for at least two hours before serving. Serve in small, chilled punch cup topped with ground cinnamon and a cinnamon stick. Will last refrigerated for up to a week. Makes 15 servings.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
17
Interested in obtaining Tony’s services or products for your brand company, hotel, or restaurant? Contact Andrea Day 702-218-1989 | andrea@themodernmixologist.com
For a complete list of Tony’s books, products and bar tools, visit www.themodernmixologist.com
Holiday gift baskets available! See our website. Tony’s bar tool set includes the following: Cobbler 3-piece shaker with etched 16-ounce mixing glass, jigger, bar spoon (choice of twisted or round), Hawthorne strainer, Julep strainer, 20-ounce hand-blown mixing beaker, hand-held lime squeezer, hardwood muddler, and Lewis bag (not shown). 18
in the Mix Magazine
Follow us on Facebook @ THE MODERN MIXOLOGIST OFFICIAL FAN PAGE Follow us on Facebook @ TAG BAR TOOLS Find us on Twitter @MdrnMixologist
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
19
TAKE 5 Interview with Elizabeth Vianna
“Being a winemaker is a blend of art and science. It is mainly science, but the artistic dimension is so fun — it’s instinct, using your palate much in the way that you use your imagination.”
Elizabeth is the winemaker for the heralded Chimney Rock Winery in the Stag’s Leap District of Napa Valley. Chimney Rock is owned by the Terlato family. Elizabeth first came to Chimney Rock as a harvest intern in 1999, while completing her master’s degree in enology at U.C. Davis. Upon graduation, she became an enologist at Napa Wine Company and was soon named assistant winemaker there. She had the opportunity to work directly with many of the region’s top winemakers including Heidi Barrett, Erin Green, Pam Starr and Celia Masyczek. Elizabeth was named to the position of assistant winemaker at Chimney Rock in January 2002 and advanced to the position of winemaker in 2005.
She was promoted to general manager of Chimney Rock Winery in 2011 while continuing in her role as head — WINEMAKER ELIZABETH VIANNA winemaker at the Stag’s Leap District estate winery. She has also served as president of the Stag’s Leap District Winegrowers Association. During her tenure at Chimney Rock, she has consistently produced wines that have been highly rated among critics and highly valued among consumers. She also takes an active role in mentoring women interested in a career in winemaking/viticulture — and she is also particularly fond of Labrador Retrievers. Enough said there!
20
in the Mix Magazine
ITM: The Stag’s Leap District is a small pocket of land. What makes it so favorable for growing some of the valley’s best fruit? EV: It is a combination of welldrained volcanic soils, geography/ geology and climate. The massive outcropping of rocks of the Stag’s Leap Palisades has an interesting interplay with the cooling influence of the San Pablo Bay. The synergy between these two lend to beautiful ripe, silky tannins and stunning fruit aromatics. ITM: Chimney Rock has a very unusual architectural style; can you tell us a little about that? EV: It is Cape Dutch, typical of 17th century Western Cape in South Africa. The original owners at Chimney Rock lived in South Africa for many years and paid homage to the wineries of Stellenbosch. ITM: When I was at the Terlato headquarters this past summer in Lake Bluff, Tony turned me on to Elevage Blanc. You are known for your red wines but this white wine was outstanding. Can you tell us a little about it? EV: It is our own tribute to the great white wines of Bordeaux, inspired by Tony’s love of Haut Brion Blanc. We have added a little Napa twist to the blend:
We use the rare Sauvignon Gris as a blending grape with Sauvignon Blanc, instead of Semillon, which is traditionally used in Bordeaux. It is a white wine made with complexity and age worthiness in mind, and it is a lot of fun to make. ITM: I also tried the Elevage red while at the winery. That’s a special wine. What is it made from? EV: Elevage is a red blend that is intended to capture the essence of Stag’s Leap District tannins — velvet in a glass. It is a blend of at least three Bordeaux varieties: Typically, they are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, although occasionally Cabernet Franc makes its way into the blend as well. ITM: Your main attraction is Cabernet and I believe you make about seven types, but the workhorse is the popular Stag’s District Cabernet. What makes it so special and why should it be on every premium wine list in the country? EV: The texture of Stag’s Leap District wines is what sets our wines apart. They are known for the balance and silky tannins, which you often find in the wines from this area. It should be on every premium wine list because it is a unique terroir within the Napa Valley, and because the wines tell a very pure and unique story of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
21
women of an
Influential nature
By Mike Raven By all accounts, female winemakers make up approximately 10 percent of the vintners in the U.S., with many more involved in the viticulture, sales and marketing and the educational side of winery life. Distributors and brand suppliers are made up of, in a large part, female associates, as is also the case in the hotel and restaurant business. Then there are the sommeliers and masters of wine, the media, with its writers and critics we all read — there are so many facets to this business. We will touch on just a few of the stars of the wine world in this article; I wish we had room for more!
THE LEGENDS Mary Ann Graf was the first woman to graduate with a degree in viticulture and enology from the University of California, Davis in 1965. She joined Simi Winery as winemaker in 1973, an enormous step for women into the wine industry.
position as chief enologist at Mondavi to become head winemaker and vice president at Simi. This marked one of the first instances of a woman running both the winemaking and business sides of a major winery. Long eventually became president and then CEO of Simi through the ‘80s and ‘90s. During this period, Long led major renovations of the winery’s fermentation and barrel rooms with the same hurryup spirit and personality-infused style that Isabelle Simi had demonstrated until her death at 95 in 1981. In the late 1960s, Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family from their home in Los Gatos, California and purchased 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. Their dream? To produce world-class Pinot Noir. The Ponzis believed the climate, soil and vineyards met every need of growing the red grape of Burgundy. They planted their first Pinot Noir vines in 1970 and the first barrels of Ponzi Pinot Noir were produced in 1974.
In 1979, Graf was followed by Zelma Long, the second female graduate from the UC Davis viticulture and enology program, who left her
Zelma Long 22
in the Mix Magazine
Nancy Ponzi
Nancy’s accomplishments are almost too much to write about in this space but they include: co-founder of The Consumers’ Food Council, environmental lobbyist at the Oregon legislature, president of the Washington County Women’s Federation, holding various offices in the Oregon Winegrowers Association, being a founding director of both the Board of Washington County Visitors Association and the Washington County Wineries Association, being instrumental in establishing the Oregon “Wine Advisory Board, as well as co-founding ¡Salud! The Oregon Pinot Noir Auction and helping found the Oregon Pinot Camp. Nancy Ponzi In 1998, she helped to found the Ponzi Wine Bar in Dundee, showcasing some of the region’s very finest wines alongside their own Ponzi wines. In 1999, The Dundee Bistro, one of the area’s most successful regional restaurants, was born under her direction. Both the wine bar and bistro have become the center of the Oregon wine country. Nancy remains active in the Oregon wine industry while the couple’s two daughters run the business. Luisa Ponzi is a Burgundy- and Italiantrained winemaker and her sister, Maria, is the president and director of Sales and Marketing. She has been operating the company with her sister, the winemaker, for over 20 years. The winery currently produces nearly 40,000 cases annually and farms over 130 certified sustainable vineyards. Helen Turley is best known for making some of California’s most famous cult wines. She owns a cult wine of her own now, Marcassin Vineyard, in the Sonoma Coast, which specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is two-thirds of the production and only sold to mailing list members,
at $125 a bottle. If you are not on the mailing list, the secondary market is your only hope, with prices as high as $350 or more per bottle. Starting out in the lab of Robert Mondavi Winery in 1977, she went on to become the founding winemaker of the Peter Michael Winery in Sonoma County where she developed Les Pavots, Peter Michael’s flagship blend of red Bordeaux varietals. Up until 1995, Helen made wine for Turley Wine Cellars, which is owned by her brother, Larry. She has also worked as a consulting winemaker for a number of wineries including Colgin Cellars, Kapcsándy Family Winery, Martinelli Winery, Pahlmeyer Winery, Blankiet Estate, Landmark Vineyards and Bryant Family. Robert Parker has called Heidi Barrett the “First Lady of Wine.” She is the daughter of California wine pioneer Richard Peterson and is married to Bo Barrett, winemaker at Chateau Montelena. She has been responsible for some of the most famous wines ever to come out of California. In 1983, at age 25, she became the winemaker at Buehler Vineyards. It was here that she first attracted critical acclaim. In 1988, she left Buehler to become an independent winemaker. Within a week she was Heidi Barrett
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
23
Married for over 26 years, Heidi and Bo have decided to create their own wine together, Barrett & Barrett. The result is a handcrafted, limited edition Napa Valley wine that reflects their two different, yet complementary, winemaking styles. Heidi and Bo live in Calistoga with their two daughters, Remi and Chelsea. She also enjoys skiing, scuba diving, painting, flying helicopters and working in her garden. I bet that is a nice garden!
THE WINEMAKERS
Heidi Barrett
hired by Gustav Dalla Valle and was making wine at Dalla Valle Vineyards until spring 1996. It was there that she took her abilities to the next level, creating some powerful yet elegant Cabernets, including the famous “Maya” cult wine, a proprietary Cabernet blend that received two perfect 100-point scores from Robert Parker in ‘92 and ‘93. She started making wine for Screaming Eagle in 1992, which also received two perfect 100-point scores, the ‘92 and ‘97. It was a six-liter Methuselah bottle of ‘92 Screaming Eagle that set a world record for the highest price ever paid for a single bottle of wine at the 2000 Napa Valley Wine Auction, selling for $500,000. In addition to her very own wines from La Sirena, Heidi is currently the winemaker for Amuse Bouche, Paradigm, Lamborn, Kenzo Estate, Au Sommet, Vin Perdu and Fantesca. Other past winemaking clients include the Jones Family, Grace Family, Vineyard 29, David Arthur, Barbour Vineyards and Showket.
24
in the Mix Magazine
Susan Lueker
In the grand tradition of female winemakers at Simi Winery, Susan Lueker is now the director of winemaking. She grew up in a farming family and has said that she always wanted to be a scientist, but after studying chemistry at University of Missouri, she switched her major and graduated with a degree in child development. While attending graduate school, she changed everything again and transferred to the University of California, Davis. After her first visit to the vineyards, she knew she wanted to be a winemaker. It touched her heart with its combination of nature and science.
Elevate the cocktail with Nonino Amaro.
Amaro Nonino Quintessentia for the happiness of palate and spirit! grappanonino.it/en/
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
25
After working for small and large wineries and experiencing all the idiosyncrasies of making wine, she joined the team and the history of female winemakers at Simi Winery in 2000. According to the magazine of Missouri alumni, Mizzou, her favorite pick-me-up? A sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé. “I love sparkling wine because I don’t make it, so I don’t analyze it,” she comments.
Geneviève Janssens
Geneviève Janssens, director of winemaking at Robert Mondavi Winery, was born to a French family in Morocco and raised in France. Geneviève’s formal wine education began under the tutelage of the legendary “three fathers” of modern enology: Jean Ribereau-Gayon, his son Pascal RibereauGayon and Emile Peynaud, with whom she studied at the University of Bordeaux, France. Geneviève moved to the Napa Valley in 1978. She recognized in Robert Mondavi, her father’s holistic approach to quality. “It starts with the earth, the legacy of what we have received from our ancestors and what we are going to leave for the future generation. We must work to maintain the land, to grow so that we all live in symbiosis: the earth, the vines, the people – care creates quality.” She started at the Robert Mondavi Winery as a lab enologist and 26
in the Mix Magazine
an assistant enologist in 1978. From there, Geneviève continued exploring California for the next decade, holding several consulting positions. She returned in 1989 when she became director of production at Opus One Winery. Then, in 1997, she came full circle as the director of winemaking at the Robert Mondavi Winery. Geneviève lives in Napa Valley with her husband, Luc, and her two children, Gabrielle and Georges.
Kimberlee Nicholls
Kimberlee Nicholls, the winemaker for Markham Vineyards, moved to California after college in Oregon, with her new husband who was from Northern California. Her desire to use her biology degree led her to Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, where she began working as a lab technician. In 1993, Kimberlee joined Markham Vineyards as an enologist and became an integral part of the winemaking team. After four years of hands-on experience in the vineyards and in the winery, she was promoted to associate winemaker in 1997 and then to winemaker in 2001. “I’m a better cook than a winemaker,” she has been heard to say — she must be a really good cook if that’s the case! Kim enjoys throwing small dinner parties for family and friends, and knows she’s nailed a blend when she’ll serve the wine with a favorite dish
that she fondly remembers from her grandmother’s cooking. As the mother of two teenagers, Kimberlee instills in them the love of food, wine and family.
Marisa Taylor
Marisa Taylor, winemaker for Rutherford Hill, seemed destined to find a career in winemaking. Growing up amongst the vineyards of Santa Rosa in Sonoma County, she recalls visits to the vineyards to watch her godfather, a vineyard manager, work amongst the vines. She graduated from the University of California, Davis, first with a B.S. in chemistry and then an M.S. in food science-enology. With her two degrees, Marisa had the solid foundation needed to excel at top-quality artisan winemaking. Gina Gallo
Gina Gallo found her calling within her family’s empire as the winemaker for Gallo Signature Series, but not until after she spent time in sales and was educated at UC Davis’ winemaking program, studying viticulture and enology. To hone her trade, she was apprenticed to 30-year winemaking veteran, Marcello Monticello, one of the most respected of the Gallo winemakers and a trusted friend of her father and grandfather. With grapes grown by her brother Matt, she makes her style of wine including Pinot Noir from Santa Lucia Highlands, Chardonnay from Russian River and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. She also produces their Chardonnay and Cabernet Estate Wines.
In Marisa’s previous California experiences, she learned to make many types of wine that she makes today. Her natural curiosity led her to work abroad for the harvest of 1999 at the Colognole Winery in Rufina, Italy, where she immersed herself in winemaking and learned to vinify Sangiovese. Today, Marisa is part of a talented winemaking team at the Terlato Wine Group’s Rutherford Hill Winery in Napa Valley, crafting its award-winning wines. With the rise in popularity of Merlot again, they are especially interested in re-introducing their world-class Merlot that made Rutherford Hill such a popular wine and a category leader. She is happy, challenged and enjoys all aspects of winemaking. In her free time, Marisa enjoys quilting, gardening and entertaining family and friends.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
27
appreciation of wine that led her study in the University of California, Davis’ Viticulture and Enology Department, where she graduated in 1993 with a degree in fermentation sciences.
Renée Ary
In early 2014, Renée Ary became the fourth name on the short list of Duckhorn Vineyards winemakers that began with Tom Rinaldi in 1978. Her promotion came after 11 years as an integral member of the winemaking team, which included her roles as assistant and associate winemaker. Like the two acclaimed winemakers before her, Renée spent years working alongside her predecessors, honing her craft, refining her gifted palate and mastering the Duckhorn Vineyards style. Today, with an approach that balances artistry, science and a deep respect for the viticultural side of winemaking, Renée guides the entire Duckhorn Vineyards portfolio. “When you work with fruit of this quality, there is no recipe or formula. My job is to let the vineyards speak and convey the soul of the wine,” says Renée. Sarah Gott grew up in Marin County, then later in Knights Valley, a stretch of farmland and vineyards linking Napa Valley with Alexander Valley in northern Sonoma County. It was in Knights Valley that Sarah first gained an 28
in the Mix Magazine
Sarah Gott
Later that year, Sarah began an internship, which became a full-time position at Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa Valley. In 1997, while working at Phelps, Sarah married vintner and entrepreneur, Joel Gott, who had launched Joel Gott Wines in 1996 with Sarah as an informal winemaking consultant. Sarah remained at Phelps until 2002, eventually becoming winemaker with day-to-day responsibility for all production activities. Sarah left Joseph Phelps to become winemaker at Quintessa, a Napa Valley winery producing a single Bordeaux-style red. Sarah and Joel had their first daughter during the harvest of 2003 and the following year, Sarah left Quintessa to focus on their growing family. The couple now has three children, including twins, Lael and James. Sarah and Joel make a great team, drawing on her winemaking skills and his creative vision for the company.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
29
THE MANAGEMENT
Cristina Mariani-May
Stephanie Putnam
A Northern California native and graduate of U.C. Davis with a B.S. in fermentation science, Stephanie Putnam developed her passion for winemaking at an early age, thanks to her family’s appreciation of gourmet food and wine. She fondly remembers many childhood trips to the Napa Valley where her parents would go to enjoy and collect wine. She is now the director of winemaking at Raymond Vineyards, where she oversees all aspects of winemaking for this iconic Napa Valley winery. Before joining the Boisset Family Estates team, she was part of the team at Hess Collection, where she progressed to winemaker and also spent eight years as winemaker at Far Niente Winery. Stephanie has always focused on producing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay and her wines have won acclaim, including recognition in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100, Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 and being named The Wine News Cabernet of the Year. Stephanie currently resides in Napa with her two large, lovable Labradors. 30
in the Mix Magazine
Cristina Mariani-May is the family proprietor of the internationally renowned Castello Banfi vineyard estate in Montalcino, Tuscany, and coCEO of Banfi Vintners. Together with her cousin, James Mariani, they represent the third generation of family leadership in the company founded by their grandfather, John Mariani, Sr., in 1919. MarianiMay’s personal mantra, “a pursuit of excellence,” reaches every level of the operation, from their very accomplished environmental responsibility to their heralded Brunello’s. Cristina and Castello Banfi are also very involved in furthering the research on the Brunello clone, as well the recent innovation of their new hybrid fermentation tanks. Comprised of a unique combination of a steel base and head with a wood middle section (one-third steel, twothirds wood), the tanks combine the best of both materials by balancing the flavor and aeration supplied by oak with the temperature control, ease of use and hygiene offered by stainless steel. A hands-on mother, Cristina divides her time between Montalcino and Long Island, New York. Carolyn Wente heads up one of California’s most famous wine families. As fourth generation winegrower and chief executive officer, Carolyn works with fourth and fifth generation family members and company executives to continue the growth of Wente Family Estates and their
portfolio of wines. So far reaching are Carolyn’s accomplishments that she was chosen as one of the honorees for the Leading Women Entrepreneurs of the World in 2002. Since joining the business in the early ‘80s, she has also been instrumental in the development of the Wente family’s lifestyle business, including the opening of the Wente Vineyards Restaurant and Visitors Center in 1986. Under Carolyn’s direction, The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards has become a culinary destination continuously rated among the top ten restaurants in the East Bay. The Concerts at Carolyn Wente the Vineyard entertainment series followed, featuring concerts by world-renowned artists. Now, each summer, over 10,000 of San Francisco Bay Area concertgoers come to Wente Vineyards in the Livermore Valley to enjoy spectacular evenings of wine, food and worldclass entertainment. On July 15, 1998, Carolyn hit the ceremonial first golf ball at the opening of The Course at Wente Vineyards, created by the Wente family and beautifully located in the midst of the vineyards. The 18-hole championship golf course was designed by Australian golfing great, Greg Norman and offers exciting challenges to both male and female golfers. Carolyn makes her home in the scenic Livermore Valley with her husband, Buck Layton, and their son Buck, IV.
Wendy Nyberg
Wendy Nyberg has more than 27 years of experience in almost every aspect of the wine industry. She started her career as a college student at a new, up-and-coming company, Freixenet/Gloria Ferrer Winery. In 2003, Wendy joined Trinchero Family Estates as senior director of marketing for the nation’s top retail brand, Sutter Home. Wendy has since been promoted to vice president of marketing at TFE, where she currently oversees brand positioning, advertising, strategic promotions and packaging for many of the company’s top brands, including Bandit, Trinity Oaks, Fancy Pants, The Show, Montevina, Newman’s Own Wines, Lock & Key, Jargon, Fre and the company’s best-selling brand, Sutter Home. “Passion is the difference between being good at what you do or being great at what you do,” Wendy says. Her love for her work, competitive spirit, ambition and creativity drive her every day. One of the wine industry’s top executives and innovators, Jackson Family Wines Chairman and Proprietor Barbara R. Banke has spent the last two decades leading the company she co-founded with her late husband, wine icon Jess Jackson.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
31
Jane McGrath Barbara R. Banke
The UCLA and Hastings Law School graduate is no stranger to juggling diverse workloads. A former land use and constitutional law attorney, Banke spent more than a decade arguing cases before the United States Supreme Court and Courts of Appeal, and raised three children with Jess (Katie, Julia and Christopher Jackson). In addition to the flagship Kendall-Jackson and La Crema wineries, Banke and Jackson shaped nearly two dozen small, high-image wineries located across Sonoma, Napa, Monterey, Santa Barbara and Mendocino counties, including Arrowood, Byron, Cambria, Carmel Road, Edmeades, Freemark Abbey, La Jota, Matanzas Creek and Stonestreet. The Jackson Family portfolio also includes the international properties of Chateau Lassègue in Bordeaux, Tenuta di Arceno and Arcanum in Tuscany, Calina in Chile, and Yangarra Estates and the Hickenbotham Vineyard at Clarendon in Australia. In 2013, the Jackson family purchased property in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, including the acclaimed Zena Crown and Gran Moraine vineyards. Jane McGrath has worked in the premium wine industry for 30 years and is the vice president, director of National Accounts for Kobrand Corporation. 32
in the Mix Magazine
Jane graduated from the University of Colorado Leeds School of Business with a degree in marketing and international business. During her junior year abroad, while living in Europe, Jane fell in love with wine. Upon her return to Boulder, she worked parttime at the megastore, Liquor Mart, further developing a passion for wine. Following her studies, Jane joined Kobrand Corporation as a sales representative. She was promoted to state manager before accepting the National Accounts manager, Western U.S. position. After seven years, Jane left Kobrand to join Benziger Family Winery as their National Accounts director. When the Benzigers selected Kobrand as their international agent, Jane accepted their offer to rejoin Kobrand as their National Account director in 1995. Shortly thereafter, she was promoted to vice president, director of National Accounts and now runs a team of four National Account managers. She manages Kobrand’s extensive portfolio that includes Maison Louis Jadot, Champagne Taittinger, Cakebread Cellars, St. Francis, Sequoia Grove, Benziger Family Winery, Masi, Sassicaia, Taylor, Fonseca, Alizé and Tia Maria. Jane lives in suburban Chicago with her husband and sons. She also volunteers at her children’s school, chairing the Lisle Education Foundation for District 202.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
33
It’s hard to imagine a woman with the surname “Wines” ending up as anything other than one of the country’s top sommeliers. And master sommelier Emily Wines has not fallen short of the calling with her most recent position as the senior director of beverage at Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants. Emily grew up outside of Seattle, and spent time living in San Luis Obispo, California, where she developed first-hand knowledge about the wines of California’s Central Coast. In pursuit of a more serious wine career, Emily moved to San Francisco to work at a number of noteworthy restaurants, such as Jardinière, Elka and Foreign Cinema. In 2000 she joined the Fifth Floor restaurant as assistant sommelier under the mentorship of Rajat Parr, in 2005 she took over the wine director position for the restaurant. During her tenure, Fifth Floor’s wine list earned the prestigious Grand Award from Wine Spectator magazine and the restaurant was
Mary Melton
P.F. Chang’s Beverage Director Mary Melton has her hands full managing the beverage program of over 190 restaurants across the country. She manages all things liquid including the creation of beverage menus, the wine program, drink innovation and development, wine education, tea, coffee, beer and bartender training. Mary has held the position since 2005 and has created one of the most unique programs in the National Account arena. Mary lives in Phoenix, Arizona with her husband, Don, and their German shepherd, Annie. They also have four chickens and grow their own vegetables and herbs in outdoor garden beds. When not renovating their beautiful 1940s-era classic home, they enjoy traveling abroad visiting European wineries and camping and ATV-ing in the Arizona mountains.
Emily Wines 34
in the Mix Magazine
nominated for Outstanding Wine Service award by the James Beard Foundation. In 2008, Emily became one of only 96 people in the United States to earn the designation of master sommelier. Emily was also awarded the prestigious Remi Krug Cup for passing all three sections of the certification exam on her first attempt; she is one of two women to ever achieve this remarkable feat. In addition to consulting on the wine program for Fifth Floor Restaurant, Emily now serves as master sommelier and director of wines and spirits for the Kimpton Restaurants nation-wide.
THE WRITER For 16 years, Deborah Brenner traveled the world as a marketer of computer technology used by television and film studios and was involved in several successful high-end technology start-ups. But it was her passion for food and wine that led her on a trip to the Napa Valley and a fortuitous lunch
at Mustard’s Grill. Curiosity and her journalism education prompted Brenner to do more research on women in the winemaking business. The idea for her book, Women of the Vine, was born, and Deborah was soon trekking to California to interview passionate and famous winemaking women entrepreneurs. In the process, she realized that along with the book, she could champion these women more directly by going into the business herself. In March, Brenner will be hosting a two-day symposium titled Women of the Vine, the first of its kind devoted to advancing women’s careers in the wine industry. It is also the first of its kind, two-day trade event enabling women across all sectors of the wine industry and across the globe to connect, network, mentor, collaborate and support each other. It will take place March 13-15 in Napa, California, at The Meritage Resort and Spa.
Deborah Brenner
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
35
– I N T E RV I E W W I T H –
Liz Lister ITM: Hi, Liz, and thank you for interviewing with us. As you know, we are highlighting women in the business for our winter magazine and you are a perfect example of a dynamic female in today’s liquor business. LL: Thank you for asking me. It’s my pleasure. ITM: You have been with Stoli USA for just over a year now. Can you give us a little review of your past experiences?
Liz Lister is the director of National Accounts West for Stoli USA. She lives in Park City, Utah with her husband Doug and her two children, Wyatt (11) and Piper (7). Liz enjoys the mountain lifestyle of Park City while not on the trail promoting Stoli USA products. She told me it’s her nirvana.
36
in the Mix Magazine
LL: I started out in the business working for SWS/ AWS as a key account manager in San Francisco. A few years later, I moved to the supplier side with Treana and Liberty School Wineries, which is now called Hope Family Wines. There were only two of us in sales and marketing at the winery covering the U.S. and Canada — a lot of miles and lessons learned. In 2007, I left Treana and we relocated to Park City, Utah. I started a local alcohol brokerage business, quickly accruing a very nice wine, beer and spirits portfolio. Two years into my business and the politics of one of the strictest control states in the U.S., I had the wanderlust and opportunity to go to Hong Kong to try and sell American wine and craft beer. I bought a booth at the Hong Kong Wine and Spirits Fair in 2009. That first trip to Hong Kong changed my professional life. I fell in love with the export business. I learned there were grants available from the USDA to export American agriculture, i.e., wine. I immediately wrote and received a grant for my company. I also learned there was additional support available from WBE (Women’s Business Enterprise) and a WOSB (women-owned small business) program within the national account arena, so I did that too. Six months later, on my second trip to Hong Kong, I met Greg Smith, aka 007 Gallo VP of Asia (now I believe he’s in charge of Brazil and other emerging markets). Greg contracted me and my
new partner/dear friend, Sharon McMahon, (exFrexinet VP National Accounts) to work on the American chains located in all 19 countries in Asia. For the next few years, we had the time of our lives, learning everything we could, from logistics, distribution challenges, politics surrounding each country, price points and language barriers, to things like what flavor profiles worked in each country. As a global supplier, it is very important to be well versed in that area as our partners continue to expand outside of the United States.
ITM: What is unique about being a woman in today’s alcoholic beverage business environment? LL: Women are always up for the challenge, perhaps even more so given the environment. I believe we are our own harshest critics, which make us perfectionists. We are constantly working to perfect our careers and will not stop until we succeed. ITM: How does it affect your relationships with other females in the business? Is there a bit of a bond there?
LL: Women typically bond for life. We’re social by nature. Most of us are competitive but love to work together. I work with quite a few women on various projects, like Diane Svehlak (Dress The Drink), Kathy Casey (Liquid Kitchen) and Kim Haasarud (Liquid Women need to believe in their abilities and start their Architecture). I recently own companies because we do have our finger on the pulse worked with Cheryl Burns with Gallo, Deb Tatley of the market. I wish I could live to see the day the spirits with Red Bull and Shawn Love with Boston Beer business is referred to as a “Good Ol’ Girls Club.” Company, on an Applebee’s project with Christine LL: When I was running my own brokerage in Windsor (IMI) and Tracy Redmond (Applebee’s). Utah, I was the only licensed woman in the state. We tend to take the “all for one” approach. The same was true when we went into exports. I think there have been significant positive changes ITM: What would you say are the advantages to being a in our industry; however, with this being said, woman in the business? there is a lot of room for growth on the executive LL: We can multi-task. I know what you’re thinking, level, including outside of our industry, whether but it’s true. Women are just better designed that way. it’s within our distributors, national accounts or Running a family and household while working fullon the supplier side. Interestingly enough, within time and traveling is an art; it all must function like Stoli Group we have several female executives, a well-oiled machine or nothing will get done. There which is refreshing but not reflective of the spirit is very little room for error. Our turnaround and companies in the U.S. That list includes: Lori efficiency is immediate and I believe we really have Tieszen, CMO; Shelley Turner, California state a finger on the pulse of what is going on today. We director; Lisa Tuttle, director of wine for Achavalhave to be not only equal but also better at what we Ferrer; Lisa Derman, SVP general counsel; and do, to stay competitive with our male counterparts. Maria Lisanti, marketing east director, to name a ITM: Even though there have been many more women introduced to the industry in the past 20 years or so, you are still the minority. Is it still the “Good Ol’ Boys Club” or has the playing field leveled out any?
few. Women need to believe in their abilities and start their own companies because we do have our finger on the pulse of the market. I wish I could live to see the day the spirits business is referred to as a “Good Ol’ Girls Club.”
ITM: So let’s talk about Stoli a bit. Stoli is an iconic brand, but the new company, Stoli USA, is a start-up in a sense. Can you expand on that for us?
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
37
LL: When we say start up, it’s the first time in the history of Stoli in the U.S. that we are our own company. No one looks after their brand better than the people who own it or are dedicated to its success. We have always been an agency brand from Pepsi Importing, Pernod Ricard and most recently William Grant. We now have over 75 dedicated, passionate employees selling and marketing Stoli across the U.S. ITM: The re-establishment of the brand has many focuses. Let’s talk about the different priorities, starting with the core brand, Stoli Premium. What would you like to emphasize to our audience about the features and benefits of using Stoli Premium in their features? LL: Stoli is an iconic brand. We are the oldest vodka distillery in the world (not just a pretty label or made up). We are the fourth largest selling brand vodka in the world and we have more awards and medals for great taste and quality than I can count. These are marks that Millennials look for in a brand — quality and authenticity. ITM: Stoli elit is truly an elite product. What insight can you give us on the best way to stimulate sales of this product? LL: elit by Stolichnaya is a product that must be sampled. A taste test comparison will make any vodka drinker into a believer and advocate. I personally feel the best way is neat, maybe with a twist, if that’s your preference. It’s dangerously delicious and smooth, not to mention being the highest rated white spirit in the world. elit is produced by our traditional fermentation process and then goes through a secondary freeze filtration, freezing out all impurities. Purity and great taste are easily recognized upon tasting. elit created and owns the ultra-premium luxury vodka category. ITM: Stoli has always been a pioneer and an originator of flavored vodka. With so many available in the marketplace, you have come up with a Core 4 program. Would you explain the program and who would best benefit from using it? LL: We focused on what we feel are our best flavors and on those that really fit the market place. We say Core 4 (Blueberi, Razberi, Vanil, Ohranj) to recognize our leading flavors (80 percent of Stoli flavor volume) but add in an optional two.
38
in the Mix Magazine
Flavors like Stoli Hot and Peachik have a place, too, depending on the demographic of a chain, the concept and season. Our fruit flavors have all natural fruit extracts, nothing artificial. ITM: You’re putting a lot of emphasis on your Moscow Mule program, using your proprietary ginger beer — a great program based on a classic drink. Everyone should be using this, right? What is special about the Stoli Ginger Beer and what do you need to get the program rolling? LL: Stoli Ginger Beer was developed internally by one of the marketing VPs, Mike Oringer. Mike found us after 25 years in the non-alcoholic world with Coca-Cola and with a startup beverage company funded by The Coca-Cola Company. Mike is one of those guys who absolutely loves to work and loves what he does. We taste-tested hundreds of people, took package design to another level and created an all-natural product designed specifically to go with Stoli Premium and our flavors. The cans have two servings and 50 calories per serving; plus, we’re a “green” option compared to most bottled ginger beers. There are lots of ginger beer products in the market but there is absolutely no consistency. Moscow Mules across the country didn’t just vary on taste by the vodka, but also by the ginger beer that was used. Consistency is something all of our customers strive for. No matter where you are, we want a Stoli Moscow Mule, be it flavors or premium, to always taste exactly the same. We are distributed nationally within our distributor network. ITM: I would be remiss not to mention your representing the Mendoza winery, Achaval-Ferrer, home to some of the great Malbecs of Argentina. What would you like our audience to know about them? LL: Achaval-Ferrer has one single passion: to craft world class, terroir-driven red wines from Argentina. Achaval-Ferrer produces the most critically acclaimed Malbecs from Mendoza, sourced from old vine, low-yield, single vineyards. ITM: Thanks, Liz, and the best of luck on all of your products this season. LL: Thank you, Mike.
MIX UP THE ORIGINAL STOLI MOSCOW MULE ®
The House of Stolichnaya™ introduces an innovative non-alcoholic mixer: Stoli™ Ginger Beer. Made from pure cane sugar and fresh ginger extract, it brings the ideal balance of sweet and spice to any cocktail. Start with Stoli™ Ginger Beer, available as a 4-pack of sleek 8.4 oz. premium cans.
DRINK RESPONSIBLY.
Stoli Group USA LLC. New York, NY. 2014 Spirits International B.V.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
39
WOMEN
IN SPIRITS By Brittany Chardin
40
in the Mix Magazine
Jim, Jack and Johnnie … “It’s a man’s world” may never have been a truer saying than when applied to the world of spirits. At a glance, men seem to dominate the liquor shelf. But one does not need to look very hard to see that women have been influencing spirits since, well, pretty much the beginning of distillation. Cleopatra the Alchemist, one of the leading female scientists of the third century, is widely credited with inventing the alembic still. Not surprising when you consider that women in Greco-Roman Egypt were respected chemists and dominated in the field of fragrance and cosmetics experimentation. Sumerian women are credited with inventing beer making in 4,000 B.C. Since the first step of whiskey making is basically the same as making beer, it’s not a stretch to say that for thousands of years, women have been making major contributions to spirits. In his book Whiskey Women: The Untold Story of How Women Saved Bourbon, Scotch and Irish Whiskey, author Fred Minnick asks, “Without Sumerian women fermenting barley, would modern whiskey exist?” Indeed! Even Corsair
Andrea Clodfelter
Distillery Head Distiller Andrea Clodfelter, who just led the Nashville-based small batch facility to win the American Distilling Institute’s prestigious “Distillery of the Year” award, got her start in home brewing. Credit the numerous influences of government regulations, religious pressure (including concerns over witchcraft) and societal norms in Europe and America, with both largely curtailing interest and limiting women’s roles in the production of beer and spirits during the next six or seven centuries. That’s not to say that women were absent altogether. Women continued, in small numbers, to be involved in all aspects of the business including owning some very high-profile distilleries, such as Laphroaig and Johnnie Walker, and shaping brands such as Maker’s Mark. In September, Margie Samuels, wife and co-founder of Maker’s Mark with her husband Bill Samuels, Sr., was the first woman inducted into the Bourbon Hall of Fame for work with a distillery. Margie made invaluable contributions to Maker’s Mark and is credited as the mastermind behind the name and trademark, the distillery’s Margie Samuels aesthetic and its emphasis on tourism and, not least importantly, the unique bottle design, label and, of course, the iconic use of red wax. In an effort to ensure her husband’s bourbon stood out, Margie got inspired by her collection of 19th-century bottles of Cognac, which were often sealed in wax. She experimented by filling the family deep fryer with red wax, and the first bottles of Maker’s Mark were dipped right in the middle of the Samuels’ kitchen. “Historically, distilling was tough, dangerous work and like many ‘dirty’ jobs, was the realm of men. But as these jobs got safer, thanks Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
41
to workplace and technological changes, and as more women joined the workforce, it was inevitable there should be more women,” said Litty Mathew, co-founder of downtown Los Angeles’ Greenbar Craft Distillery, the producers of the world’s largest portfolio of organic, handcrafted spirits. Litty is correct: There are lots of women in the spirits industry today. They are forging ahead working as distillers, creating new brands, managing businesses, and thriving as consultants, brand ambassadors, bartenders and bar owners. Parallel to the changes in other predominately male fields such as science, business and mathematics, women are encouraged today by the success of other pioneering women. “Unfortunately, I didn’t know any women in the spirits industry when I got started in 2008. I wish I had! I was motivated by the big names in business like Oprah Winfrey, Martha Stewart, and even Melinda Gates. I admired women that blazed their own trails, who worked in the world to which they were called, and who overcame great challenges to be revered there,” said Troy Ball, the president of Asheville Distilling Company, distillers of Troy & Sons’ line of premium moonshine and whiskies. “Recently, I have met three women distillery owners and three women distillers. We now call ourselves ‘The Dames of Distillation.’ After a weekend retreat in Asheville, North Carolina, we found we had so much in common that we Troy Ball decided to band together to further our goals of building great American brands.” If moonshine is not the first spirit that most people think of when they learn a trailblazing lady 42
in the Mix Magazine
is working the still, is a single malt produced in the heart of the Cognac region of France? Brenne Whisky was awarded “Best New Spirit” by Food & Wine magazine. Brenne’s producer is the recipient of this year’s “Innovator of the Year” award by Whisky Magazine — pretty impressive accolades for a new, non-traditional style of whisky. “You can’t lead by following,” says Allison Patel, Brenne’s creator and producer. That may be true, but following Allison along as she blazes new paths in the world of whisky would be a fascinating journey. Just following her blog, The Whisky Woman, might be a little easier but no less rewarding. “I started this company when I found myself on a quest to seek out (and eventually create, as it happened) a single malt whisky from a non-traditional whisky-producing country that had a focus on terroir,” said Allison, when Allison Patel I asked her about how she came to create Brenne. “Being a female-owned whisky brand definitely sets me apart. Most people do not expect me to be the owner of a whisky company, but it’s not something I trade on because to me, gender has nothing to do with the quality of the spirit in your glass,” Allison added. The success of Hendrick’s Gin, one of modern distilling’s most popular brands, is the result of a special duo of ladies. Ms. Lesley Gracie began experimenting with William Grant & Sons’ rare Carter-Head and Bennett stills in 1988, finally achieving a “peculiar sort of deliciousness” now known as Hendrick’s Gin, in 1999. The infusions of rose and cucumber, along with the brilliant idea of hiring the lovely and awardwinning Brand Ambassador Charlotte Voisey to champion the unique spirit, have made Hendrick’s a “triumph of the unusual.”
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
43
But, has all this recent focus on women been meant as a celebration of their work or as a sort of segregation? I wondered, are there still gender biases? “There are biases out there, but I have always tried to ignore them,” says Laura Cullen, national treasurer for the Unites States Bartenders’ Guild and VP, sales manager, On Premise for Pacific Wine & Spirits of Northern California. “It’s not healthy to give too much power to those undercurrents, although I do think that they exist and they are real. I do not feel that I have ever not been given an opportunity because I am a woman, nor do I think that being a woman has ever been a major factor in my career.” “I do feel a responsibility to mentor and support women in our industry,” Cullen continues. “I’ve had a lot of people support me and help me navigate my career, and there’s no way that I would be here without that, but for the most part my mentors were not women simply because there weren’t a lot of women around. The two big exceptions to that are my mother and my sister, who are both incredibly strong, smart women. I think that giving back is a responsibility and an honor. If I can offer advice, tell a cautionary tale and in any way ease the minds of other women out there trying to find their way, I’m all in.” “The spirits industry is ripe for the taking,” adds Ms. Ball. “We’ve seen it happen in the beer world and we will see it happen in the spirits world. I’ve learned that the spirits world is full of old-style thinking. I truly feel that the winners will be those who can outmaneuver the old guard thinkers. It’s impossible to build a brand the same way the big guys do, with their millions to spend on marketing, publicity and brand building. If we little guys are to succeed, we need to do it by creating a ground swell that is authentic and original.” “It’s no longer just about selling the brands, it’s about selling the experience,” shares Donna Frederick, senior National Accounts manager for Beam Suntory. “People are looking for great cocktails and incredible food; they want an event with superb atmosphere. To be successful, you 44
in the Mix Magazine
must learn as much as possible about the brand and trends, be passionate and believe in the products. Engage with one of the many women’s groups out there, like Whiskey and Women, and even consider Donna Frederick getting some formal training,” Frederick advises. “We have one of the best jobs on the planet. I feel very lucky to be in this business.” “I think what’s next for women in this industry is what’s happening now,” shares Lynn House, national ambassador for PAMA Liqueur. “We are finding each other. Women in the industry are being helped to find, encourage and support each other by groups like LUPEC (Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails), an organization that promotes women in the spirit industry while raising funds for local and national charities; and LOAD (Ladies of American Distilleries); and through events like Speed Rack, a bartender competition created by two amazing New York City bartenders, Ivy Mix and Lynnette Marrero, which shines a spotlight on female mixologists thriving behind bars around the country, while raising money for breast cancer research, education, and prevention. “We are creating our own events, opening bars, forming consulting groups, developing spirits and running big brands. The opportunities ahead are endless,” exclaims House. “Women are having great success in the beverage industry. We are shattering that glass ceiling at a very rapid rate. Women are natural nurturers; we take care of each other. We grow in this industry together and we succeed together.” So, Jim, Jack and Johnnie, shove over … there’s a lady coming!
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
45
A DV E RTO R I A L
About a decade ago, a group of Samuel Adams employees volunteered to paint a local community center. Afterwards, Jim Koch, the brewery’s founder and brewer, walked to his car feeling vaguely discontent. “I should have felt great that our employees offered to pitch in, but for some reason I didn’t,” said Koch. “While it was certainly satisfying to give back, we left them with a mediocre paint job and weren’t
taking
advantage
of the diverse talents of our employees. This led me to realize that I wanted to create a philanthropic program that would involve our employees, use their talents to add real value, and give back to others in our industry.”
46
in the Mix Magazine
A DV E RTO R I A L
To date the Samuel Adams Brewing the American Dream program has made more than 375 loans totaling over $3 million. The brewery estimates it has helped create or retain more than 2,000 jobs – that’s more people than work at Samuel Adams. The program has seen a loan repayment rate of over 98 percent, which is well above the national average. For more information on the program, visit samueladams.com/btad.
Shortly thereafter, in 2008, the brewery introduced the Samuel Adams Brewing the American Dream program. The program focuses on supporting small business owners in the food, beverage and hospitality industries, as well as fellow craft brewers, by providing microloans, business coaching and mentoring. A few examples of how the program is making an impact across the country are through the program’s signature Speed Coaching events, a Brewing and Business Experienceship mentoring program for small brewers, and the Pitch Room national competition. “I know how hard it is to start a small business in the food and beverage industry, because I have been there,” Koch said. “Our Brewing the American Dream program offers those two things that I wish I had access to when starting Samuel Adams 30 years ago – microloans and business coaching. What differentiates our program is that we don’t just slip a check under the door; it’s the combination of microloans and coaching that’s so important to help a small business grow and succeed.”
Frank Sickelsmith, HMSHost Q&A As part of the Brewing the American Dream Program, the Pitch Room competition provides an opportunity for food and beverage small business owners to perfect the art of the sales pitch, and compete for a prize including a $10,000 business grant and extended coaching from Samuel Adams employees. Past judges have included Samuel Adams retail partners such as Frank Sickelsmith, HMSHost Corp.; Patrick Kruk and Dianne Kinney, Outback Steakhouse; Marcie Everett and Donna Ruch, Red Robin International, Inc.; Sandy Block, Legal Sea Foods; and Amy Latimer, TD Garden.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
47
A DV E RTO R I A L
We chatted with one of those judges, Frank Sickelsmith, vice president of Adult Beverage and Restaurant Development at HMSHost Corporation.
Q. Tell me about your experience with the Samuel Adams Brewing the American Dream Pitch Room competition. A. It was amazing to experience the passion and energy of the small businesses that participated and pitched their products. And all of the products were great! It is so inspiring to see how passionate these entrepreneurs are, and if they listened to even just one piece of my advice, then I feel I had an impact.
It’s the combination of microloans and coaching that’s so impor tant to help a small business grow and succeed. - JIM KOCH Q. It’s great to see the industry helping the next generation of business owners. What do you see as the real benefit? A. Think about it – almost every successful restaurant chain in America started with a single location. So, the opportunity to create the next big thing is real. New concepts and emerging cuisines keep our industry exciting. Restaurants are very trend-sensitive and many of the best new ideas come from passionate entrepreneurs. I feel it is so important to give back to the industry that you are in, and it’s great to have partners like Sam Adams that share that same sentiment. If we help our colleagues, we all win!
Q. Why do you feel programs like this are important?
48
in the Mix Magazine
A. The food and beverage industry is risky and unfortunately we see many small businesses fail for many reasons that could include poor bookkeeping, focusing on the wrong things, or simply not hiring the best people. Anything we can do to help other passionate entrepreneurs to start and grow their businesses and to create more jobs, the better off we will be. That’s the beauty of the American Dream.
A DV E RTO R I A L
Q. What do you like best about your industry? A. Where do I start? We exist to make people feel good and provide a necessary service. Also, the industry attracts genuinely good people, people who get real gratification from making someone’s day just a little brighter. Imagine you’re a bartender at a Samuel Adams Brewhouse in an airport during a snowstorm. The place is packed but one seat opens up at the bar. A weary traveler takes the seat. He’s no longer the road warrior – now, he’s our guest. We take care of him. His travel woes just disappear for a while as he enjoys his beer and great meal. Additionally, I love to see the innovation the industry has experienced over the years. I’ve heard Jim Koch say this is the greatest time in history to be a craft beer lover. For me, it’s the greatest time in history to be a restaurateur.
Q. What’s the best piece of advice you received early in your career? A. To be yourself, and to be true to what you believe in. My dad, Randy, told me and showed me this. I see a lot of people who achieve success and then change as people. I grew up in restaurants – the people that worked for my dad in his restaurants serving, cooking, bussing and washing dishes were a big part of my youth and are still like family to me. As I grew in my career, I realized that it was those experiences and those people that helped me understand the business and helped make me who I am. I still have the most reverence for those people who do the hardest, least celebrated jobs. I think that’s kept me grounded and has made me appreciate all that I have.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
49
50
in the Mix Magazine
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
51
52
in the Mix Magazine
– I N T E RV I E W W I T H –
Maeve Pesquera Maeve is the national director of wine at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar. Each year, Maeve selects top-rated wines from around the world as well as from exclusive, limitedallocation boutique wines offered to her, for her coveted wine list. The wines are all chosen during an extensive 12-month tasting process. These, along with unique local wine selections picked by the wine managers, make up the award-winning wine list at Fleming’s, which is highlighted by the Fleming’s 100 — 100 wines available by the glass, taste, flight and bottle. Prior to becoming the national director of wine, Maeve was an operating partner for the company in Houston and was selected as Fleming’s “Prime Partner of the Year” three times. Maeve now lives near the company headquarters, in Laguna Beach, California, with her husband Luis and their five children. When she is not working, she enjoys traveling, hiking and hearing her children’s magical and happy laughter.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
53
ITM: Maeve, thanks for interviewing with us. As you know, we are celebrating women in the beverage business this issue. There are more and more females in the restaurant wine business, but it is still male dominated. Is there any advice you could give to young women who would want to be in your business? MP: When I came into the world of fine dining, I was the only woman working in any capacity other than hostess. Many times a guest would ask the see the “real” manager (the male manager) even though I was his boss. It was a different time. I feel that we have made huge strides here, and young women today need to know that with knowledge, comes power: Educate yourself, become a subject matter expert, and be prepared to put in the time, energy and hard work it takes to move forward in your career. Seeking out a mentor, female or male, to inspire and guide them along the way, is another important component that can position them to grow in our field. ITM: We first met at an ABI (Alcohol Beverage Institute) meeting in Dallas. Members of Congress are trying to introduce a bill to lower the BAC to .05. Many restaurateurs who are not members of ABI may not be aware of this. Do you have any comments on this? MP: At Fleming’s, we are very committed to responsible vending and certify our associates annually to ensure we are serving responsibly. As restaurateurs,
“ We are truly passionate about our wine program and dedicated to ensuring that we are serving a great glass of wine to each guest.” we cannot underestimate the impact that a .05 BAC would have on our guests’ freedom to consume a drink with friends in a responsible way. Together, we need to support ABI in their mission to demonstrate to legislators that continually lowering the BAC level does not solve the problem of drunk driving. ITM: With 100 wine-by-the-glass selections, you must have a system to keep the wines fresh. What do you use? MP: We are truly passionate about our wine program and dedicated to ensuring that we are serving a great glass of wine to each guest. We store and serve both our red and white wine at the appropriate temperatures. Each wine is labeled, dated and checked by the wine manager every day. For preservation, we use Vinfinity, a flash vacuum system that removes all air after each pour. ITM: You use a customized iPad for your wine presentations, which is very easy to navigate, I might add. How do your customers react to it? MP: When we designed the Fleming’s WiNEPAD from the ground up, we wanted to develop more than just a digital wine list. Our focus was creating an engaging experience for our guests, to enhance their conversation about wine with their server and to make wine approachable and fun.
54
in the Mix Magazine
The Fleming’s WiNEPAD allows us to meet our guests wherever they are on their journey with wine. From novice to collector, there is something for all palates; everyone has fun. You can look around our restaurants and see our guests engaging in wine in a whole new way. It’s very exciting! ITM: Last we talked, you were working on a series of short videos called “A Minute with Maeve” (if I have the title right). How are these coming along and what is the main purpose of them? MP: “Maeve Minutes” are Millennial-focused, oneminute educational videos to show and tell what a server needs to know RIGHT NOW about wine and spirits at Fleming’s. These short videos are part of our targeted blended learning approach to support our associates’ ability to grasp and retain information. One of our core values is FUN, and approaching wine and spirits education in a fun and fast-paced way keeps our teams engaged. ITM: Let’s talk about the wine list a bit. What is your best-selling varietal or blend in your case?
MP: When you think of a steakhouse, people think Cab, and the popularity of both Cabernet and Cabernet blends has steadily grown over the last five years. White varietals are almost equally popular by the glass, with Riesling and Pinot Grigio leading and Sauvignon Blanc a close second, and sparkling wines about to join that group. Our guests visit Fleming’s for many different reasons, so having a glass of white or sparkling at the bar or before dinner and a Cabernet or red with steak is very common. ITM: As a rosé drinker, I was surprised to see only one on the list, a Côtes de Provence. It has always been a tough category. Is it a seasonal thing or are people still not turned on to these wines? MP: Dry rosé is a style of wine that has taken off in popularity the past few years. Look around at any wine bar and I am sure you will see a well-heeled hipster sipping on a rosé (myself included!). I added our first rosé by-the-glass two years ago, and this year I selected the high quality rosé made by Jolie-Pitt & Perrin. I also have a special rosé being made exclusively for Fleming’s, from Russian River Valley, that will provide a contrast
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
55
in style to the Miraval, so our guests can compare and contrast the two styles and regions.
have many guests who want to explore, and this section is the perfect place to take them around the globe.
We also certainly see an increase in sales of rosé in the spring and summer. Nothing says that spring has arrived quite like a glass of rosé and a patio.
In this section, you can go from Portugal — with more and more non-port style wines being made with traditional, old vine grapes — to its neighbor Spain, with Rioja. Or Australia, France and California, for the popular GSM blends, and of course, Malbec from Argentina, which continues to boom.
ITM: I saw three Rieslings on the BTG list. Everyone talks about the resurgence of Riesling — is it true? Are more people discovering this wonderful varietal? MP: Yes, yes and yes! Yes, we are a steakhouse, and yes, Riesling is one of our very top sellers! Of course, Riesling can be made in several styles — dry, off-dry and sweet — and our guests are able to experiment with and explore this wonderful varietal in several different ways. ITM: You have a lot of fun wines on your Earthy, Complex, Robust and Spicy list. How are your customers enjoying these wines? MP: The really great thing about 100 wines by-theglass is that it allows me the luxury to introduce new wine regions and new taste profiles to our guests. We
56
in the Mix Magazine
ITM: You carry a lot of blends on your list, both Merlot- and Cabernet-based. Are these styles of wines a personal favorite? MP: I like these wines but the list is really made in response to our guests. My focus is to find the best wines in a certain style. Blends have become very popular because guests have a lot more knowledge about wines now and know that most wines are blends, with only a few varietals being made entirely of that grape, like Riesling and Pinot Noir. Since Cabernet is such a perfect steak wine, guests quickly discovered there are very good Cab-Merlot (Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) blends equally good with steak, and that is why this section continues to grow.
ITM: New Zealand Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs are well represented. I assume that style of wine must still be very popular.
ITM: It’s nice to see you have two featured drinks using rye whiskey. As you know, I just did a story on rye’s resurgence. Are your customers embracing these cocktails?
MP: Our guests are smart. This is a refreshing wine that you can sip as an aperitif and is very tasty with many appetizers. There is a larger diversity of styles now as well, since it has become so well known, so you can finetune your selection to encompass several of these.
MP: Absolutely! The beautiful thing about the rye resurgence is that it’s not just for the men anymore. We have created balanced rye-based cocktails that are a hit with both men and women, and there are a ton of fun, fearless females sippin’ on a rye cocktail at Fleming’s tonight.
ITM: What dictates the order in which the wines are presented on the list? I can’t figure it out. MP: In every section — sometimes by grape (Merlot, for example), other times by style such as sparkling — we list wines with increasing intensity. With white wines, what is most important if you don’t know the wine, is to know if it’s dry or sweet, unoaked or oaked. With reds, tannin is the deciding factor for many guests. We try to take some of the guesswork out by making the styles clearer, listing wines progressively in each section and on the Fleming’s WiNEPAD.
ITM: I love the Sip and Savor the Season drinks. How often do you change them? MP: These cocktails have been a hit since we launched them last year. Our seasonal cocktails give our associates something new to offer their guests four times per year that truly speak to the season.
ITM: A lot of our readers may not be aware that you are responsible for all beverage selections, including liquor. What is your methodology for creating the unique cocktails on the menu? MP: Yes, it’s not ALL about wine, but don’t tell anyone I said that! Spirits are such a fun place for me (and our guests!) to try something new and different. Cocktails are experiential — it’s not just a drink but also an experience. Our guests love learning the history of a cocktail, finding a new craft spirits, or trying a new type of spirit in a cocktail made by one of our bartenders in the proper manner. My focus is to utilize fresh, seasonal ingredients, the highest quality craft spirits and impeccable cocktail techniques to create drinks that people love and are still thinking about the next day. Cocktails allow us to help our guests get a bit out of their comfort zone. Our list is arranged so that our guests feel comfortable exploring new types of spirits they may not normally have, in a cocktail made in a way that will still be pleasing to their palate.
“ Cocktails are experiential — it’s not just a drink but also an experience.”
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
57
Having access to seasonal ingredients adds new and different options for combinations of flavors.
of the past — they are designed to have layers of flavor that resonate with our guests in a big way.
ITM: Your Drinkable Desserts list is not typical of the category. The main spirits are strong liquors like bourbon, rum and rye whiskey. What was your inspiration for this selection?
ITM: Do you offer anything special for the upcoming Christmas and New Year’s holiday season?
MP: I saw an opportunity to be innovative in a category that had been declining over the past few decades. Utilizing bourbon, rum and rye allows me to introduce a new generation to bold and exciting new flavors, and be innovative in a category that has been declining or stagnant in recent years. These aren’t your typical cloyingly sweet cocktails
MP: This is such a celebratory time of year and to add to the festivities, we have brought in large format bottle options and custom batch cocktails for our private dining guests. Starting November 11, we also have our fall/winter Taste the Season menu, a four-course prix fixe that features fall favorites like butternut squash ravioli with Hackleback caviar, a gorgeous golden beet, asparagus and fig salad, followed by a porcini-crusted filet over a braised mushroom ragout. Such a fun and festive time of year!
“ ...Find moments in everyday life that fill me up and allow me to give back that energy to my children, my husband and my work.” ITM: You have five children. How do balance your family life with such a high-profile job? MP: If I had a quarter for every time someone has asked me this, I could buy some pretty amazing vintage Bordeaux! There is no simple answer here. Truth be told, work-life balance can be a rather elusive concept. What works for me is to find moments in everyday life that fill me up and allow me to give back that energy to my children, my husband and my work. Small things, like seeing the light in my boys’ eyes when they show me something they did at school that day, or watching one of our guests find their new favorite wine on the Fleming’s 100 list, or seeing an associate at Fleming’s have that “aha” moment in a wine education seminar, fill me right up and help me funnel that energy into my family and my work. ITM: In closing, I want to thank you for taking time to participate in our women’s edition of in the Mix. You are truly an inspiration to all women aspiring to succeed in the restaurant business. 58
in the Mix Magazine
elevate your sparkle. CHERUB’S KISS 1½ oz citrus vodka ¾ oz raspberry liqueur 1 oz fresh lemon sour 2 oz Santa Margherita Prosecco
Soak a sugar cube with bitters, and set aside. Pour Santa Margherita Prosecco into a flute glass. Using a bar spoon, place bitters-soaked sugar cube into the flute glass. Garnish: lemon peel
CAMPAIGN SUPPORTED BY REGULATION EC N. 1234/07
IMPORTED BY TERLATO WINES INTERNATIONAL, LAKE BLUFF, IL
©2014 TERLATO WINES
Shake first 3 ingredients with ice. Strain into a flute glass. Top with Santa Margherita Prosecco. Garnish: 3 fresh raspberries floating on top
PROSECCO COCKTAIL 6 oz Santa Margherita Prosecco 1 sugar cube Bitters
Exclusively presented by TERLATO
WINES
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
59
Bourbon
— HOLIDAY PIE — RECIPES
Lots of chefs have found bourbon to be a versatile ingredient no matter what they are preparing, with pies being no exception. As baked pastries rule the desser t tray through fall during the holiday season, we asked Executive Chef Brian Surbaugh and Pastry Chef Becca Schmutte of Table 310 and its sister restaurant National Provisions in Lexington, Kentucky, to whip up some pie recipes using a bourbon that paired well with the fillings.
Pie Shell Dough
Larceny Bourbon Pumpkin Pie
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
3 cups all-purpose flour
3 eggs
2 tbsp granulated sugar
16 oz pumpkin puree
1 tsp kosher salt
12 oz sweetened condensed milk
½ cup shortening
2 tbsp bourbon (We used Larceny for its sweet cinnamon notes.)
1 cup buttermilk (½ cup whole milk, ½ cup heavy cream, 2 tbsp lemon juice) 1 egg
2 tsp kosher salt
DIRECTIONS
1. C ombine flour, sugar and salt in large bowl. 2. Mix the shortening and egg by hand into flour mixture until it resembles pea-sized crumbs. 3. Add the buttermilk and mix until the dough just comes together. 4. Wrap in plastic wrap. Cool at least one hour before use. Yields two 9-inch pie crusts
60
in the Mix Magazine
2 tsp cinnamon 1 tbsp freshly grated nutmeg 1 tsp powdered ginger DIRECTIONS
1. C ombine all ingredients in a medium bowl and whisk together. 2. Pour into a prepared pie shell and bake at 350°F for 50 minutes.
Woodford Reserve Apple Pie INGREDIENTS
Maker’s Mark Pecan Pie INGREDIENTS
6 Granny Smith apples, thinly sliced 2 cups brown sugar 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup light corn syrup
2 tbsp cornstarch
½ cup brown sugar
2 tsp cinnamon
4 eggs
2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1 tbsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp bourbon (We used Maker’s Mark for its nutty and wheat notes.)
3 tbsp apple cider vinegar
¼ cup molasses ¼ cup maple syrup 3 cups pecans DIRECTIONS
1. C ombine all ingredients in a medium bowl and whisk together. 2. Pour into a prepared pie shell and bake at 350°F for 60 minutes. Yields one 9-inch pie
¼ cup bourbon (We used Woodford Reserve for its spicy and toffee notes.) DIRECTIONS
1. C ombine all ingredients in a large bowl and toss together until apples are evenly coated. 2. Quickly pile all of the apple mixture into a prepared pie shell. (Yes, there’s a lot, but the apples will cook down.) 3. Add a top layer crust if desired. Just remember to poke holes so the steam can release. 4. Bake at 350°F for 60 minutes. Yields one 9-inch pie
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
61
Bulleit Cherry Pie INGREDIENTS
3 cups cherries, pitted 1 cup brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 1 cup all-purpose flour 3 tbsp bourbon (We used Bulleit for its smoky vanilla and cherry wood notes.) 1 tbsp kosher salt ¼ tsp ground cardamom zest and juice of 1 orange DIRECTIONS
1. C ombine all ingredients in a medium bowl and gently mix together. 2. Pour into a prepared pie shell. 3. Add a lattice crust to the top if desired. 4. Bake at 350°F for 60-70 minutes. Yields one 9-inch pie
Noah’s Mill Blueberry Blackberry Pie INGREDIENTS
2 cups blackberries 2 cups blueberries 2 cups brown sugar 1 cup flour 2 tsp kosher salt seeds from 1 vanilla bean pod zest and juice of 1 lemon 3 tbsp bourbon (We used Noah’s Mill for its dark oak and deep berry notes.) DIRECTIONS
To view all of the recipes please go to:
WWW.GOBOURBON.COM This article is courtesy of The Bourbon Review, a guide to the bourbon lifestyle. Photos by Emily Moseley
62
in the Mix Magazine
1. C ombine all ingredients in a medium bowl and toss together gently. 2. Pour into a prepared pie shell. 3. Bake at 350°F for 60-70 minutes. Yields one 9-inch pie
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
63
Saluting the First Lady of Steaks, Ruth Fer tel, and Celebrating 50 Years of Building a Legendary Empire “Blond, petite, divorced, single, daughter, mom, sister, friend, co-worker, charismatic, determined, degreed, enthusiastic, entrepreneur, generous, humble, trusted, successful and brilliant” all describe the character, life and career of this amazing entrepreneur, Ruth Fertel, the founder of one of the most legendary eating establishments in the world, Ruth’s Chris Steak House.
Left: Ruth showing that famous smile. Above: Beautiful image of Ruth right around 1965.
64
in the Mix Magazine
Ruth’s Chris Steak House is literally universally – from New York to Hong Kong – known for its sizzling steaks, great wine selections and innovative signature cocktails, which all began 50 years ago. Chris Steak House was started by a single working mother who quit her day job and mortgaged her home to buy a neighborhood steak house. Her lack of experience in the restaurant business proved no match for her spirit, and on May 24, 1965, she opened the doors to her new business on Broad and Ursulines in New Orleans. On her first day, she sold 35 steaks at $5 each. She staffed her restaurant with all single mothers who shared this sense of personal ownership over the success of the steak house. In 1976, a fire burned the restaurant to the ground. Ruth did not let that setback stop her; she re-built across the street. At that point, Chris of the original Chris Steak House, would not allow a new location to be built under his original name, so she changed it to “Ruth’s Chris Steak House.”
in the Mix caught up with Helen Mackey, vice president of Menu Strategy & Innovation at Ruth’s Hospitality Group, who shared with us a little history on this world famous eatery and the woman behind it all. “Ruth transferred her gift of presence to all. She was larger than life. This is still part of the very magic that resonates within Ruth’s Chris Steak House’s special ingredient,” Helen explains. She went on to say, “Ruth’s Chris Steak House is famous Helen Mackey, vice president, Menu Strategy & Innovation at Ruth’s Hospitality Group.
Vintage shot of Ruth’s Chris Steak House in New Orleans.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
65
for its exceptional food, award-winning hand-selected wines, signature cocktails and our customer service. From her original Chris Steak House becoming the preferred spot for sport figures, businessmen and media personalities, to her Ruth’s Chris becoming the favorite meeting spot of Louisiana’s politicians, the secret of Ruth’s success was very simple – the best ingredients with the best service. Those standards were set from the beginning. Nobody back then spoke of entrepreneurship as a way to survive, but that’s exactly what Ruth knew she had to do to create income to support her sons and herself. There was no room for defeat. Running that first restaurant taught Ruth that business is not financial science but more like financial psychology – educating one’s self, knowing what makes people tick, partnering with the very best suppliers, treating her employees with respect, giving her guest over-the-top service, and having pride of ownership in everything you set out to do. Till this day we continue to use those practices.”
66
in the Mix Magazine
As Helen continues the interview, she explains how Ruth’s business expanded over the years. “Ruth put her thumbprint on every detail of the business, from sourcing the finest cornfed Midwestern beef to the meticulous cuts and presentation of rib eye, porterhouse, T-bones and her personal favorite, the New York strip, with an Old Fashioned cocktail, of course. In 1976, Tom Moran, a regular customer and business owner, convinced Ruth to let him open a franchise in Baton Rouge. Soon, other friends and associates began to approach her with the intentions of opening additional franchises. As a result, Ruth’s Chris Steak House grew significantly throughout the 1980s and ‘90s. Today, there are more than 136 company and franchise-owned locations of Ruth’s Chris Steak House worldwide. Despite changing diet trends over the years, Ruth’s Chris Steak House has consistently drawn guests to its white linen covered tables. New York Strip steak, Ruth’s favorite.
For those with an appetite for something other than steak, you can feast on barbecued shrimp sautéed New Orleans style, lobster, seafood, lamb chops and free-range double chicken breast. These additional temptations are from a menu that proves steak is not just Ruth’s Chris’ only signature dish offering. Sure to please any type of palate, Ruth’s Chris is a perfect place for just happy hour, where guests can enjoy a Dress The Drink-garnished signature cocktail or an awardwinning wine or dessert, such as the famous bread pudding with whiskey sauce – a definitive version of a traditional New Orleans favorite – or a crème brûlée, the classic creole egg custard topped with fresh berries and mint.”
Above: BBQ Shrimp, New Orleans style. Left: Famous Bread Pudding with Whiskey sauce. Below: White Chocolate Martini, garnished by Dress The Drink, featuring a Macadamia White Chocolate Stirrer.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
67
Helen shared, “This year marks our golden legacy of our founder as we follow her vision of excellence. Ruth would be very proud and honored to witness our continued global expansion, innovation standards of practices, staff team pride, selective supplier partnering choices, and our private dining and catering divisions expanding. In honor of the 50th anniversary of Ruth’s Chris Steak House and inspired by founder Ruth’s favorite drink, the Old Fashioned, we have developed the ‘New Fashioned With a Twist.’ We have so much more that is in the works for the milestone 50th anniversary celebration year. It’s a very exciting time for us here.” During her lifetime, Ruth was known for her charitable work. Her charitable legacy lives on in the world today through The Ruth U. Fertel Opposite Page: Agave Bees Knees, garnished by Dress The Drink, featuring a Honey Cluster. Above: One of Ruth’s Chris Steak House’s many ultrapremium wine pours. Left: Featuring a twist on the founder Ruth Fertel’s favorite drink, the New (Old) Fashioned, garnished by Dress The Drink, featuring a candied orange.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
69
Foundation, The Ruth U. Fertel Culinary Arts Center and the annual Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award. Ruth’s mausoleum on Millionaires’ Row in the Metairie Cemetery in New Orleans has an elegant façade. She threw a Champagne party, and invited 200 friends, to showcase the mausoleum, which one guest pointed out resembled one of those richly marbled steaks at her steak house. Two years before her death in 2002, Ruth was diagnosed with lung cancer. As a testament
to her dedication to the business and hard work, her last day at the company was the day she was checked into the hospital, where she died a week later. From that day forward, Ruth Fertel has been remembered as the “the first lady of steaks.” Ruth’s legacy and spirit still live on today. In just about any major town or state in America, when you are hungry for the best meal in town and white linen service, the first name that comes to mind is Ruth’s Chris.
“Life’s too shor t to eat anywhere else.” – RUTH
Ruth’s Chris Steak House is a chain of 136 steak houses across the United States and in several international locations. The restaurant is regarded as an upscale fine dining establishment, marking a gradual elevation in its status since its founding in the 1960s. Ruth’s Chris is currently the largest luxury steak company in number of locations, operating income and overall profit. On May 22, 2008 the company underwent rebranding and became part of Ruth’s Hospitality Group, after its acquisition of Mitchell’s Fish Market. The group has its headquarters in Winter Park, Florida.
70
in the Mix Magazine
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
71
MAKING THE ROUNDS With Helen Benefield Billings
72
Stunning vista at Chappellet’s Pritchard Hill. in the Mix Magazine
A weeklong visit in October to the glorious Napa Valley, California’s famous wine-growing region during Fall Harvest, or “Crush” as it’s commonly referred to, was an exhilarating time for me, as it is for everyone in the wine world. I had long hoped to experience this meticulous process firsthand and to soak up as much knowledge as my brain would allow, for six days straight. Past ventures to Napa had been during the summer months; while it is extremely beautiful that time of year and the trips were enlightening, I felt as if I was missing a piece of the proverbial puzzle. While making the rounds in this celebrated corner of the world the second week of October, I sipped and savored more than my fair share of rousing whites, reds and even a handful of sparkling wines. I’m your typical Chardonnay girl, regardless of the weather, and my eyes were definitely opened to the endless possibilities of branching out beyond my white wine safety zone. I was impressed by a tangible passion radiating from each and every winemaker and wine guide we had the pleasure of meeting. It was a sensory overload that I could not resist. Left Page: Garden Valley at Chappellet
Provenance Vineyards & Hewitt Vineyard Instant charm and hospitality swept over us upon entering Provenance and Hewitt. Tasting Room Associate Cathy George gave us an indepth tour of the winery, and our timing was good as workers were still sorting the grapes, prepping, barreling and taking them to the warehouse for incubation. We had the honor of meeting retiring winemaker Tom Rinaldi, wearing his trademark Hawaiian shirt, who is a biggerthan-life personality Retiring Winemaker and one of the Tom Rinaldi friendliest people on the
IMI Agency’s VP of Operations Celeste Dinos with CEO Don Billings.
planet. He was kind enough to share a tasting from his personal label, Midnight Wine Co. – a 2012 Petit Verdot “Box Cars.” Cathy carefully guided us through a superb tasting of Hewitt’s reds that knocked our socks off. In particular was their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, of which they made just 2,500 cases and which is not in distribution but is for wine members exclusively. Notable was the 2009 Cabernet, with its super cherry notes, and the 2011 Cabernet. www.provenancevineyards.com www.hewittvineyard.com
Trinchero Family Estates We were met with a hot, sunny afternoon at Trinchero — you could not have asked for a better fall day. Barry Wiss, VP of Trade Relations at Trinchero who also serves as VP of the Society of Wine Educators, greeted us warmly along with National Account Manager for Hotels & Lodging Amanda Bevilacqua, who Barry Wiss
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
73
drove up from San Francisco. First of all, Barry Wiss is a wealth of knowledge and a grand storyteller. We were captivated as he explained the family history here, as the Trinchero family has been making wine in Napa Valley since 1948. They currently Amanda Bevilacqua have a broad spectrum of brands ranging from Sutter Home to Folie à Deux and Joel Gott.
Raymond Vineyards Amiable host Patrick Egan, director of Marketing, met us in The Tasting Room for an informative tour and started us off with Raymond’s delectable 2013 Chardonnay. Steps outside led us to the Theater of Nature – a two-acre plot of land that showcases Raymond’s impressive commitment to biodynamic farming practices, and is a terrific teaching tool for guests to experience hands-on examples of how the soil, the lunar cycle and many other factors all contribute to the delicate art of winemaking. Most impressive!
Trinchero family signatures
SeaGlass Sauvignon Blanc
Following an intriguing tour of their wine caves, we found ourselves outside overlooking a gorgeous vineyard vista, with a dazzling array of wines to taste. Especially pleasing was the SeaGlass Sauvignon Blanc from Santa Barbara County, which offered exactly what you’d want in a fruitforward, tropical style wine and had a clean, crisp acidity.
Patrick Egan
Also in the mix this afternoon was the 2009 Trinchero Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, from their Chicken Ranch vineyard in Rutherford. This well-balanced Cab displayed a medium ruby color with notes of black cherry and spice. www.trincheronapavalley.com www.seaglasswines.com
74
in the Mix Magazine
Raymond Napa Valley Chardonnay
of all, perhaps, is the lavish Red Room, where we had the exquisite opportunity to taste a plethora of full-bodied reds from their super efficient wine station. Patrick invited us to sample several reds from their private collection – not to be found on shelves. Hanging out in The Red Room took the visual stimulation experience into fifth gear. Red velvet adorned the walls and furniture, with wall-to-wall leopard carpeting. Baccarat chandeliers provided the perfect mood lighting and cool fashion books were displayed. Even my favorite crooner of all time, Frank Sinatra, was singing in the Top: The Red Room background. They have a super Left: Celeste Dinos, stylish bar, card tables, pool Don Billings and Helen Billings at the table and a gorgeous dining Theater of Nature. room table upon which sat gigantic Baccarat crystal vases filled with fragrant white flowers. There simply cannot be a better place to throw a party, I was thinking to myself. Now, how can we make this happen? The winery mascot is a lovable French bulldog, aptly named Frenchie, whose image can be seen throughout the property. This handsome and oh, so photogenic pooch even boasts his own line of tasty wines. Plush accommodations at Frenchie’s winery truly make Raymond a dog-friendly place where pooches of visitors can rest in shady comfort while their owners are busy touring and tasting. At every turn we encountered eye-catching and chic spaces, all with modern twists, from The Crystal Cellar to the super luxe lounge, where we happily sipped JCB Collection wines created by Jean-Charles Boisset, proprietor of Boisset Family Estates and Raymond Vineyards. Most arresting
www.raymondvineyards.com www.frenchiewinery.com www.jeancharlesboisset.com
Chappellet Mostly cloudy skies with a light breeze and a threat of rain showers moving in framed this October afternoon, as we made our way up to Chappellet Vineyard, tucked away off Sage Canyon Road in St. Helena. A short walk through the luscious vineyards with Emily Papach, Master Sommelier, and David Francke brought us to a heavenly vista overlooking stunning Pritchard Hill, the setting for this familyowned winery that began in 1967 and where the majority of Chappellet grapes are grown. This 100-
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
75
Judgment in Paris, where its 1973 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon won tops honors – besting French wines and stunning participants in the blind tasting. From that day forward, California wines were thrust into the international spotlight and the world knew it was possible to produce solid, rich wines from an area other than France.
acre slice of wine country paradise is perched atop Napa Valley, where the rocky terrain and higher elevation of 1,800 feet allow for magnificent grapes to thrive, producing huge and complex reds in particular. Our tasting began Bottom: Emily Papach, MS, Manager with Chappellet’s of Brand Strategy & Education bright and sunny 2012 Signature Chardonnay, and then we quickly segued to some pretty magnificent reds via Emily’s portable wine pouch – brilliant!
Top: S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon
www.chappellet.com
Right: Stag’s Leap corks.
Top: Garden Valley at Chappellet.
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Just off the Silverado Trail in Napa lies Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, where we had the immense pleasure of meeting with Anna Carminito, VIP trade coordinator at the recently opened FAY Outlook and Visitor’s Center. Overlooking their historic Fay and S.L.V. vineyards, the new structure is modern and sleek in its design by noted Barcelona architect Javier Barba. Dating back to 1970, Stag’s Leap is perhaps best known for producing classically bold reds and gaining worldwide notoriety in 1976 at the 76
in the Mix Magazine
Stag’s Leap portfolio of gutsy reds makes quite an impression. Anna led us through an educational tasting of the Fay Cabernet Sauvignon, S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon and a complex blend of grapes from both Fay and S.L.V. making up the velvety Cask 23. We savored their 2012 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon over dinner later that evening, a gorgeous blend with small amounts of Merlot and Malbec to further tantalize one’s palate.
Mumm Napa Artfully crafted sparkling wines at Mumm Napa, located off the Silverado Trail, are just extraordinarily special and provided a bit of a welcome surprise of sorts for me. This early Friday morning we met up with Charles Rich from Mumm’s hospitality team at the Visitor’s Center for an Charles Rich in-depth and most informative tasting tour. A wealth of knowledge, Charles explained the particulars of the soil and conditions preferred for growing the grapes that make up Mumm’s vast collection. We were further treated to an eyeopening education regarding how the bubbles are created and the special treatment required for a positive end result. A hands-on blending session was also a favorite for our small group, along with a stroll through Mumm’s Fine Art Photography Gallery, currently featuring photos by singer Graham Nash as well as the Ansel Adams Poetry of Light exhibit.
Top: Fay Outlook and Visitor’s Center Bottom: FAY Vineyards overlooking The Palisades.
A tour of the caves and the Round Room revealed a particularly striking and cool environment, and a certain intrigue set in as we viewed the pendulum looming overhead in the center of the Round Room. Anna expertly explained it serves as the “beating heart” of the winery and is a thoughtful reminder of the passage of time as it pertains to the aging of wine. Profoundly moving! www.cask23.com
Extensive bubbles tasting.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
77
Sterling Vineyards
Bob, the robotic riddler.
Outside, we relished a fairly extensive tasting of Mumm’s sparklers along with the usual accouterments, on the Oak Terrace overlooking picturesque vineyards and clear blue sky … it was like something out of a movie. Where to begin? There were so many favorites. The DVX Cuvées make up their signature sparkling wine collection and the DVX 2007 is a “can’t miss” choice to liven up any gathering. From the Reserve Collection, we loved the Brut Reserve. The impressive list goes on: Blanc de Blancs 2010, the Brut Prestige and Brut Rosé, all crisp and refreshing.
Helen and Don atop Sterling Vineyards.
Calistoga’s lush and rolling landscape is certainly the perfect setting for stately Sterling Vineyards. A short trip on the solar-powered tram led us to the top of the hill and breathtaking views of the Napa Valley. Our first stop was for a glass of stellar Sterling Reserve Chardonnay, after which our enlightening walking tour commenced. We sampled several wines along the way before finding ourselves seated outside on the tranquil tasting patio, overlooking an enormous canopy of trees. Our cordial guide thoughtfully escorted us through the day’s special selections that included:
Smiles abounded at our table as we sipped the sparkling reds — yes, sparkling reds — a revelation for me. The Cuvée M red and Sparkling Pinot Noir did a “happy dance” of sorts on my tongue, going down so easily I was instantly planning an elaborate dinner party in my head and thinking this is what I will serve to totally impress our guests. They say bubbles make you happy and I couldn’t agree more. A return visit to Mumm Napa is on the agenda for my next Napa adventure in the spring of 2015. “Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.” —Mark Twain, American humorist and novelist
*2012 Cellar Club Unoaked Chardonnay
www.mummnapa.com
*2011 Winemaker’s Select Blend – 90 points Wine Spectator
*2011 Cellar Club Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon *2013 Cellar Club Malvasia Bianca www.sterlingvineyards.com
78
in the Mix Magazine
William Hill Estate Winery Spend a precious few minutes with Senior Wine Ambassador Christopher Read, and you’ll sense his passion and knowledge straight away for this dazzling 140-acre estate in the south valley not far from the Silverado Resort.
Chardonnay, which displayed a perfect balance of oak and citrus. Another standout from the Napa Valley Collection was the 2007 North Valley Chardonnay with its buttery, oaky and bright personality – just my kind of white wine to savor with friends.
Don Billings with Gallo Senior Wine Ambassador Christopher Read.
Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon and Bench Blend Chardonnay
Cooler temperatures and an abundance of sunlight in this location allow for some fairly extraordinary growing conditions, yielding bold and intense reds. Our tour of this impressive winery concluded at the arbor, where we enjoyed several wines, including a few of my favorite whites, along with a cheese and charcuterie plate. As we sat overlooking William Hill’s lush vineyard, a gentle breeze was blowing around in its path the most amazing display of flowers. Particularly attractive was the richly intense Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, along with the 2012 Tasting Room Collection Unfiltered
A large group would be gathering here shortly, directly next to the vineyard, for wine, hors d’oeuvres and dinner under the stars. Entertainment for the evening was the well-known 1970s’ bands Ambrosia and Orleans, who were in the middle of sound checks during our visit. We simply did not want to leave! It’s hard to imagine a mellower Saturday night. www.williamhillestate.com
We have a quote written on a wine barrel stave in our wine cellar at home in Georgia that reads,
“Friendship, like Wine ~ Flows from the Heart.” With every adventure to Napa Valley, we collect special memories and stories while making new friends. We look forward to our next journey, more new friends and catching up with the old, in 2015.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
79
Alexander Valley’s
Crown Jewels
By Ed Korry CHE CSS CWE I had my first taste of an Alexander Valley AVA wine several decades ago, in the ‘80s, while managing a restaurant. I remember it as if it were last week. It was a Rodney Strong Vineyards’ Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon. It was eyeopening rich, elegant, balanced and redolent of cassis flavors with notable acidity. A couple of years later, I had the pleasure of meeting Rod Strong at a wine dinner in Providence and was exposed to more vintages; I have been a fan of that AVA ever since.
The late Rodney Strong 80
in the Mix Magazine
Alexander Valley AVA is located in the north end of Sonoma County, bordering Mendocino County. It runs northwest to southeast along the Russian River as a 22 mile-long narrow strip only two to seven miles in width. There is an eight-degree temperature difference between Cloverdale in the north and Geyserville, only 12 miles to the south. The southern portion is much
128
Cloverdale
101 Du d. kR ree
•QUAKING HILLS
ss Ru
ia n
Ch
Dr y
Cre ek R
ia n
ti R
Ri
ve r
d.
Cany
•SKIPSTONE
Geyserville
d.
•ARBIOS •PENDLETON •DELORIMIER
CANYON ROAD EXIT
on R
128
d.
•TRIONE •CLOS DU BOIS INDEPENDENCE LANE EXIT
N
FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA•
Dry
•TRENTADUE
•GARDEN CREEK •ROBERT YOUNG Re dW in er y Rd . . •STRYKER SONOMA Rd t STARLITE• Fla HAWKES• e Pin s er ys Ge
R
d.
•STONESTREET
MEDLOCK AMES•
Rd. gs r in Lytton S p
C d. ek R re
der Valley R d . WHITE OAK• xan Ale W SODA ROCK• •ALEXANDER VALLEY JORDAN• est S HOOT OWL CREEK• od aR •HANNA ock •SEGHESIO Rd . •JOSEPH FAMILY •SIMI STUHLMULLER• 128 FIELD STONE•
Ru ss
See Inset
101 101
St.
Matheson St.
d. eR
VALDEZ FAMILY• ill St. M
ide
ts Wes
Rd.
Hud son
To Calistoga Thomas Rd.
•VÉRITÉ
Westsi d
e g Av sbur Heald
HEALDSBURG EXIT
North St. Plaza
LANCASTER•
iver nR ia
Healdsburg
.
SILVER OAK• PECH MERLE• J RICKARDS•
Chalk H ill R d
C er tch
•SOUVERAIN•WATTLE CREEK
• RODNEY STRONG
To San Francisco Rd .
•KELLEY & YOUNG SAPPHIRE HILL• Front St.
Alexander’s Crown Vineyard
more influenced by fog, and thus cooler, so it is not surprising that wines from that area retain a higher acidity. Elevation also makes a significant difference, with diurnal ranges that can drop from daytime highs in the 80s to nighttime low temperatures in the 40s. The Alexander Valley encompasses almost 77,000 acres, with more than 15,000 acres planted to premium grapes. It gained recognition as an AVA in 1984 and has a history dating back to 1843 when Cyrus Alexander, for whom the valley is named, planted its first vineyards. The first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was planted in 1971 by Rod Strong at what is known as Alexander’s Crown. With my several trips to the picturesque Alexander Valley, I gained a much deeper understanding of the valley’s potential, especially
from Rick Sayre, the head winemaker at Rodney Strong Vineyards Estate since 1979. Rick gained early winemaking experience under the tutelage of the legendary winemaker, André Tchelistcheff, while working with him at Simi Rick Sayre, the head winemaker at Rodney Strong Winery. Rick’s philosophy Vineyards Estate since 1979. is that the wine is made in the vineyard, and each terroir, which has been better defined over the years, reveals different characters in the wines. Thus, Alexander’s Crown is quite different from their Rockaway vineyard, halfway towards Cloverdale, or the more structured and fuller-bodied Brother’s Ridge, a single vineyard designation 400 feet to 1,300 feet in elevation and the most northerly of their vineyard blocks. Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
81
The valley is differentiated into four categories by its diverse soils and elevation. The valley floor is sandier and more alluvial, providing more rigorous growing conditions. The first and second benchland slopes contain well drained Yolo and Rick Sayre and André Tchelistcheff Cortina soils, with less clay and more gravel. They provide conditions for riper Cabernet Sauvignon with softer tannins and brighter aromas. The fourth category includes hillside sites from the west side and, more predominantly, those on the east side of the Mayacamas Mountain Range. Stronger sunshine, more stressful growing conditions due to poorer draining soils and greater diurnal range, result in more intense fruit expression from longer hang time. Brothers Ridge Vineyard
There are many other varieties grown here and I have tasted a number of them including Merlot, Zinfandel, Malbec, Sangiovese, Carignan and primarily Chardonnay for white wines, with Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier to a much lesser extent. The Alexander Valley AVA brings to mind great wines such as as the unique Robert Young Chardonnay Clone 17 and iconic Scion Cabernet Sauvignon. I have also tasted superbly balanced Zinfandels from this AVA, including those from Seghesio Family Vineyards and the Ridge Vineyards’ Geyserville (field blend) Zinfandel, from its “Old Patch” vines that were planted 130 years ago. It’s impossible to enumerate all of the many producers who are offering stellar wines at very competitive pricing, compared to the neighboring Napa Valley. But aside from Rodney Strong Vineyards Estates, they include Alexander Valley Vineyards, Blue Rock, Chateau St. Jean, Clos du Bois, Francis Ford Coppola, Geyser Peak, Hall, Jordan, Ledson, Louis M. Martini, MurphyGoode, Robert Young, Seghesio, Silver Oak, Simi, Skipstone, Stonestreet and Trione.
Tom Klein, proprietor of Rodney Strong Vineyards
Tom Klein and Rick Sayre 82
in the Mix Magazine
So, instead of presenting a restaurant wine list with a plethora of Napa Valley wines without inclusion of Alexander Valley wines — particularly, but not restricted to, Cabernet Sauvignons — do your patrons a favor and give them the unforgettable and price-valued experience of Alexander Valley wines. They will be grateful to you and come back for more.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
83
DESIGNING BAR SERVICE By Christine Heller Last night my friend was craving a rack of ribs but the neighborhood barbeque place (walkup counter, no service) was closed on Sunday! So we began a process of elimination and decided to try one of the local steakhouse chains because we like their burgers and enjoy sitting at the bar in front of a big screen. Sunday football was on TV and my Cowboys were playing the late game at home against one of their favorite nemeses, the Giants. (In deference to my adopted hometown, let me state that I am also a fan of the Jaguars.) The parking lot was full so we were taking a chance on getting a place at the bar. Lucky for us, there was a booth in the bar area, center to the TV. We sat ourselves down and waited about four minutes (good timing, though we know four feels like ten) when along comes our friendly
84
in the Mix Magazine
waitress with a big ole’ smile and a hearty greeting. My friend launched into his question about the ribs and our waitress responded favorably, pulling out her order pad. With our food orders placed, I asked what was on draft; we learned there was Happy Hour pricing on draft beers. Oh boy! Again, lucky us. By now we knew our waitress’s name. Jen is a 20-30 something woman who, we observed, had that entire bar area under control, even with every booth and high top occupied. That smile — she flashed it for everyone. Within a few minutes, our ice-cold drafts arrived in giant mugs, delivered by an equally friendly young man. We leaned back to watch the game, anticipating the ribs, which Jen said were awesome. The ribs were awesome and the experience was great. So great that we asked to speak with a
How often do we all talk about the importance of service? And how effortless is it to simply acknowledge the guest in your station, be attentive and SMILE? So, think about this: If you were to design the service program for your bar, what would be the three most important behaviors you would want to instill in the hearts and minds of your staff? Perhaps this will help: I asked many people who enjoy dining out and consider themselves foodies, to describe what they consider good service and bad service. The interviews were done between the two largest demographic groups, Boomers and Millennials, who together comprise half of the population. Starting with what is considered bad service, the top two complaints were not being acknowledged within the first three minutes and a sourpuss attitude. No surprise there. The top two attributes of good service were, predictably, timely acknowledgement and attentiveness.
Here are a few of the results. When we asked Ken of KiT Photos his opinion he said, “The server should be attentive and make no assumptions.” Automatically bringing the same beer on the second round as the first because the guest flagged you down is being assumptive. What if the guest did not like the first beer or wanted to try something different the second time around? And having to flag down the server is never a good thing.
manager for the sole purpose of complimenting the service — a rarity. Jen’s timing, attitude and service were so right-on that we were compelled to tell someone. Needless to say, we left a large tip. The seemingly younger manager was also quite pleasant — could her great attitude be the key to a welcoming staff? I would love to sit in on her staff meetings to see how they create this aura of friendliness. So, guess what? Next time we have a hankering for ribs, we will definitely go back to that same place.
James Moreland of Moreland Neat, who is a luxury lifestyle and bar expert, referred to a New York City craft bar where bartenders pay attention to detail. He explained, “They prepare excellent crafted cocktails and their service is top tier. There’s no snootiness. They are expected to craft great cocktails — it’s not a privilege that the customer has to request but a standard of service they should expect.” “Personally, the greatest component for good service is being approached by the server within five minutes or less,” says Sharon McMahon,
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
85
hospitality industry professional. “Nothing is as bad as sitting at a bar and having the bartender walk past you without acknowledging you, the guest,” adds Sharon. Ken reiterated this sentiment, describing bad service as “inattentive and having a bad attitude.” All the people interviewed spoke about the desire for the server to get the order right, have knowledge of what they are serving and correcting it on their own if it is wrong! Of course to correct something, one must first be aware. Samantha Flahive, student and actress, along with a group of her friends, listed bad service as long waits for drinks and food, bad attitude from server, rude hostess or server, and an incorrect order. They consider good service as “getting my drink and food in a timely manner from a pleasant server who is attentive and patient, and seems to care about my experience by showing up at least one time to make sure everything is okay with my order.” I then contacted a seasoned and wellrespected hotel manager who works day in and day out with servers, bartenders, chefs, managers, hostesses and all types of hospitality service industry personnel. Paul Anthony Rossi, director of Food and Beverage/Event Management at JW Marriott Camelback Inn Resort & Spa, describes good service as “greeting within a few seconds of being seated, great menu knowledge and suggestions before I look at the menu, and a pleasant disposition.” Paul tells his employees, “Always greet your guests within 15 seconds of seating, give a tour of the menu and suggestively sell a signature drink. Be attentive and anticipate your guests’ needs and read table cues.”
86
in the Mix Magazine
“Act like you want to be working there!” is Samantha’s advice to on-premise service workers. When I asked Paul to give me an example of a compliment he might receive from a guest about good service, his response was, “very attentive and made me feel at home and welcomed.” Throughout the hospitality industry, the experts, professionals and guests themselves offer the same advice to servers: be thoughtful and customer focused. Operators — if you ever want to be respected as a consistently good place to drink and eat, or acknowledged for your employee leadership, or win an award for being the best at something ... then fix the service from the front door to the bar and tables. Make every guest visit memorable. You don’t have to provide French Laundry’s expert, flawless, highbrow service, just hire and train for friendly, competent service. Design a training program that focuses on the guest and rewards the employee for exemplary service. The most successful chains, from the fast-casual to the most influential cocktail bars, all chant the same mantra, which is “attention to detail and a consumer-centric approach.” What matters most to customers is how they are treated by the employees, and the primary element that distinguishes you from the competition is your employees. Smile and the world smiles with you. We have all heard it over and over and over and over, and yet how many of us actually apply the principles that encompass good service? A people culture will ALWAYS pay dividends.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
87
TECHNOLOGY
Driving Sales Through Intelligence by Adam Billings Over the past few years, the IMANAGEPROMO™ application has been the promotional engine behind some of the strongest brands in the hospitality industry. The ability to seamlessly integrate into restaurant and hotel systems has been the key driver of success, along with its simplicity and accessibility. The latest version of IMANAGEPROMO™ maintains these core elements combined with a stronger feature set and new design. It represents the best communication platform to launch food and beverage promotions across complex, multi-brand and franchise structures.
Transparency adds more competition to your promotions. In a secure and controlled environment, sales data transparency has the ability to improve competition and drive sales. The best managers are motivated by competition, but without consistent and comparable information, there is no way to feed this desire. IMANAGEPROMO™ provides a backend to load sales data in bulk, with the ability to broadcast the data within specific organizational channels. If corporate sales data is not available, there are plugins that allow users to enter their POS data.
88
in the Mix Magazine
Leaderboards provide consistent feedback and the ability to make adjustments. Leaderboards are as popular as they have ever been in gaming and in business. They provide a visual perspective of data, but are more impactful than mere numbers on a page. Over time, leaderboards are able to show progress, which is important to attaining sales goals. It offers managers the ability to make adjustments in their work to get a better result and increase their position on the leaderboard.
Just-in-time education improves the learning experience. Education is most effective when it is delivered at the right time and in the right amount. Many times we provide too much information at one time and this leads to lower retention levels. Learning should be targeted and progressive in the promotional environment. The IMANAGEPROMO™ learning module releases important information at scheduled intervals throughout the promotion that allow staff members to concentrate on improving specific skills at critical times.
Activation tracking holds team members accountable. Using the most readily available technology in the restaurant — your manager’s mobile phone — we have been able to close the gap on activation
and adherence to the promotion through pictures. Mobile uploads are either approved or rejected by a corporate chef or beverage director before being posted to the gallery. This has revolutionized the way we manage compliance, in part because of simplicity of mobile cameras and the popularity of photo filters. Managers take pride in their submissions and even engage their staff. These images are also being used in a competitive manner through additional contests and incentives.
Incentives are essential to changing behaviors. There are no rules for what an incentive must be because they are constantly changing, evolving and even regressing. The latest trends are around limited offers and creative experiences. These can take time to curate and be difficult to execute, so it’s important to have a balance of incentives for all types of accomplishments. The IMANAGEPROMO™ platform is designed to promote sales growth through incentives like education trips, gift cards and even well deserved thank-yous. Changing behaviors is essential to continued sales growth year over year. This relates to all aspects of promotional execution, from the manager to the waitstaff, and even to corporate. IMANAGEPROMO™ facilitates a communication platform to track sales, drive competition, provide learning and determine promotional effectiveness.
WATCH THE VIDEO at http://imanagepromo.com
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
89
LEGAL
How Low Will the NTSB Go With the Legal Blood Alcohol Limit? September 21, 2014
The National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) is on a mission to lower the legal drunk driving limit to .05. For a 120-pound woman, that would spell jail time for having just one drink and then driving. For those of us who work in the alcohol policy arena, it’s déjà vu all over again. Over a decade ago, public safety advocates convinced Congress and state lawmakers that lowering the legal limit from .1 to .08 percent blood alcohol concentration (BAC) would save 500-600 lives per year. But lowering the legal limit hasn’t been the promised panacea to our nation’s drunk driving woes — alcohol related fatalities still account for approximately one-third of all traffic deaths, a figure that hasn’t budged since .08's passage. There’s an obvious reason why the move to .08 didn’t have the life-saving impact that advocates hoped it would: Most accidents don’t happen when the driver’s BAC is between .08 and .10. And they certainly don’t happen when it is between .05 and .08. Rather, over 70 percent of alcohol-related fatalities are caused by drivers with a BAC limit of .15 or higher. It’s these high-BAC drunk drivers we must target with our laws if we want to take a serious bite out of the drunk driving problem. Only one percent of traffic fatalities are caused by drivers with BAC levels between .05 and .08, so by what twisted logic does it make sense to focus our efforts on those drivers? The NTSB is the first federal traffic agency to officially endorse a .05 legal limit. The American Medical Association, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, World Health Organization, and other public health organizations already support a lower standard. Interestingly, some of the other usual suspects haven’t jumped on board. Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD) and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) have declined to endorse the policy — at least for now. But we know how quickly that tide can turn. Just look at the .08 battle as reference. The NTSB officially endorsed .08 in 1982, only a year before Utah became the first state to adopt
90
in the Mix Magazine
.08. (MADD was founded in 1980, just as the .08 battle began.) Many federal agencies weren’t yet on-board with lowering the limit, but with the NTSB’s stamp of approval, lawmakers began proposing and slowly passing legislation to drop legal limits. (Unsurprisingly, shortly after the .05 recommendation was announced by the NTSB, five states proposed bills to lower the limit.) It wasn’t until 1998 that Congress started offering states cash to lower their limits. That was the carrot, but the stick soon followed. In 2000, Congress passed a law heavily penalizing states that did not pass .08, by withholding highway funding. At that point, 19 states had .08 laws on the books. Once Congress threatened state budgets, it only took four years for the remaining states to fall in line and adopt .08. And so, .05 could follow a similar path, slowly gaining traction in a handful of states (Utah, again, may very well be first) before Congress decides to come off the sidelines just as it did back in 1998 and provide incentives to states willing to make the move. It would certainly be a mistake if they did. By nearly halving the legal limit, we would create a new category of criminals who today are considered moderate and responsible drinkers. The field sobriety tests currently used to determine impairment by police would no longer be useful because most drivers with a .05 BAC level wouldn’t show any signs of being impaired. And our already crowded court system would be clogged with women who had little more than a single drink with dinner before driving home. But that wouldn’t be the worst of it. Most depressingly, public safety advocates will have missed the point entirely, having been focused on a cohort of responsible drinkers posing little to no threat on the roadways while failing to devote resources to getting actual drunk drivers off our roads and making us all truly more safe.
Source: The American Beverage Institute, ABIonline.org, Sun-Sentinel
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
91
Cold Weather Cocktails Seasonal Flavors and On-Trend Spirits Warm Up Winter Menus
As the weather turns from the heat of summer to a chilly fall and the cold snap of winter, cocktail menus follow their own evolution from light, bright citrus and fresh “green” flavors to the darker, earthier and warmer flavors found on fall and winter menus. For many, autumn and winter flavors may bring to mind rich, sweet flavor profiles. To be sure, there’s no shortage of these indulgent, dessert-like drinks on today’s seasonal menus, like the Pumpkin Pie Martini found at Granite City Food & Brewery this season, or the plethora of peppermint, white chocolate and dark chocolate creations. But seasonal cocktail flavors are also maturing as mixologists cast farther and wider for more sophisticated flavor profiles that range from smoky to earthy, spicy to bitter. Dark, bitter notes continue to add a decidedly adult flavor profile to drinks. This can be found in on-trend spirits like Aperitivo Cappelletti; its taste rounds off those biting flavors with oranges and herbs. It’s featured as the star ingredient in beverages such as the Cappelletti Spritz from Marta’s in New York, where it is finished with Prosecco and grapefruit. Or it can be used in a supporting role, as in the Bella Rosa cocktail from New York’s Franny’s, where Cappelletti is paired with vodka, maraschino, lime and bitters. For dark, bitter flavors that add a more interesting note to drinks, some bartenders are turning to burnt sugars and caramels as a more indulgent and mature take on a sweet ingredient. The Gin Joint in Charleston, S.C., doubles down with the Ichabod Crane, a cocktail packed with seasonal ingredients including buttered bourbon, spiced pumpkin seed, orgeat, burnt sugar and vanilla cordial. Its Prize Fighter cocktail pairs burnt sugar with Carpano Antica, curacao, Campari, rye, balsamic and fig.
By Maeve Webster and Mike Kostyo
92
in the Mix Magazine
Figs are just one example of the types of produce mixologists are leveraging throughout the fall and winter, a must to keep up with fresh, local seasonal trends year-round. Datassential recently covered the wide variety of cold-weather produce options that chefs and bartenders are using on menus, in our October edition of FoodBytes.
Beyond the traditional, chefs are also looking to less familiar, less common produce options to flavor seasonal drinks. Consider the Sangre Y Tierra, one of the house cocktails at The Brooklynite in San Antonio, which mixes beets with mezcal, ginger and lime, and the Wilde Vine cocktail at Villains Tavern in Los Angeles, which pairs red grapes with Jameson Black, Luxardo, cane sugar and lemon. We’d be remiss not to mention pumpkin, the powerhouse seasonal flavor that continues to be the go-to option for beverages across the spectrum, from hot coffee to cold beer — though it has come to signify a spice combination far more than the actual squash. Pumpkins began impacting fall cocktail menus as early as August and September this year, with options like the American Pie at Denver’s Williams & Graham, which goes all out with pumpkin salted caramel, pumpkin cream, rye and calvados. At Portland’s Teardrop Lounge, the Sleepy Hollow features pumpkin cordial paired with Amaro Montenegro, Rittenhouse rye, mandarin and candied sage.
Apples and pears, for instance, continue to be popular flavors for fall and winter, as terms like “orchard fresh” and “harvest” show up on cocktail menus, while ciders/cidres keep growing. The Teardrop Lounge in Portland features one of the more unique apple drinks with their Marquess of Queensbury, a “bright celebration of harvest” in which an apple oleo-saccharum punch base is mixed with Macchu Pisco, Clement Créole Shrubb, Logsdon Farmhouse Seizoen ale and maple bitters.
Sage is just one of the seasonal herbs mixologists are using in cold-weather drinks. Williams & Graham also uses it in their Blackberry Sage Smith, along with Johnny Drum Private
At New York’s Alder restaurant in the East Village, the Bartlett & Jaymes features pears and apple brandy combined with rum and Pimm’s, while at the Lula Café in Chicago, the Secret Garden combines Orchard Pear Liqueur with Letherbee Gin, Dolin Genepy and basil. At Drink. Well. in Austin, Poor Perry’s Cobbler mixes spiced pears with bourbon, Amargo Villet and boysenberry compote.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
93
Stock bourbon and blackberries, while the Glass Haus Kitchen in Charlottesville pairs it with Yellow Chartreuse, Chambord, lemon and ginger ale in their FarmHaus cocktail . Rosemary, another autumn favorite, flavors Mel’s Gibson at the Broken Shaker in Miami, along with gin and onion-infused dry vermouth. And the Sugar House in Detroit offers the Medicated Genius with a rosemary-caramel syrup mixed with orange bitters, blended scotch, Bonal Gentian and rum. For an earthier note, nut varieties are a seasonal ingredient that lends heft and indulgence to savory and sweet autumn and winter dishes and drinks. Back at the Gin Joint in Charleston, walnuts are featured in the Fair Well Cocktail along with rye, scotch and Campari. Across the country at The Violet Hour in Chicago, black walnut liqueur pairs with coffee-brown sugar syrup, Flor de Caña 7 and Sailor Jerry Rum. Rum is just one of the ways bartenders add a rich, spicy flavor to warm up the colder months, with these aroma and flavor notes creating a more grounded and substantial drink. At this time of year, brown spices are featured in drinks like the Painkiller at Scholars in Boston, where they are paired with houseinfused spiced rum, pineapple, coconut and orange. The Black Diamond cocktail at San Francisco’s Alembic features a pear and cardamom shrub with chartreuse, sweet vermouth and chocolate bitters topped with dark beer. Ginger, another brown spice popular in holiday desserts as well as the increasingly prevalent ginger beer, is often paired with honey to create
94
in the Mix Magazine
warm, comforting flavors. At Portland’s Multnomah Whiskey Library, the Autumn Chu-Hai cocktail features ginger-honey with Satsuma Shiranami Shochu, a Japanese sweet potato-based liqueur. And the Suffering Fools cocktail at New York’s Alder pairs ginger and honey with bourbon and juniper. Those evergreen flavors of juniper, pine, fir, cedar, etc. offer mixologists a unique way to evoke the feel of colder months in a drink. Fedora in New York City created the Tito Santana From The Top Ropes cocktail, which mixes pine liqueur with bitters, rum and bourbon. Across town at Brooklyn’s Clover Club, the aptly named Royal Tannenbaum uses a pine tincture with rye, grapefruit, Cynar, honey and lemon. And mixologists have really only just begun to experiment with more mature and innovative seasonal flavors. While classic, comforting flavors will always have a place on fall and winter cocktail menus, bartenders are tucking away a few new favorites and seasonal surprises to warm our bodies and souls, as the days grow short and cold.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
95
FROZEN ASSETS By Mike Ryan The American ice industry started in the 1800s when a Bostonian by the name of Frederic Tudor sent a shipload of lake-cut ice to Martinique, in the hopes of introducing the Tropics to the joys of cold, refreshing beverages. Lack of appropriate storage facilities doomed the majority of his cargo to melt. Undaunted, he tried again and again, until he was able to gain a foothold not just in Martinique but also across the West Indies. Americans became obsessed with cold: cold water, cold cocktails and readily available ice cream. By the end of the 19th century, Tudor’s company was shipping ice to India,
96
in the Mix Magazine
Australia, Africa and South America. However, modern refrigeration techniques, as well as rapidly improving artificial ice machines, sounded the death knell of the ice trade; and by 1930, the last American ice company had ceased to exist. For the rest of the 20th century, commercial ice production focused on displacement and volume rather than density and integrity. In a highball cocktail made with brittle, fast-melting ice, the ice will displace more liquid and allow more ice to be packed into a glass, decreasing the amount of alcohol and mixer needed to fill the glass, thereby
increasing your margin on that cocktail. However, this leads to watery, lukewarm, weak cocktails and gradually the drinking public has begun to spurn such drinks. Today we are in the midst of an ice revolution. Bartenders and enthusiasts alike are freezing ice in large molds, and buying large blocks from sculptors and cutting them with chainsaws. Some are even starting companies dedicated to supplying bars and restaurants with hand-cut, crystal clear ice for spirits and cocktail service. Clear ice is formed in machines, such as those manufactured by Clinebell, which simulate the lake-freezing method, but upside down. Water is placed into a large metal springform basin with a freezing plate on the bottom; once the ice “seeds,” or nucleates, on the plate, a pump is attached that keeps the water moving constantly. This way, impurities such as air and minerals can’t freeze into the block. A full-size block will generally take two to three days to freeze and weighs around 300 pounds. This block is then moved to a cutting table using an engine hoist, cut into manageable blocks with a chain saw, and then chopped into small blocks using a band saw. Large format, clear ice is ideal for serving high-end spirits like single malt Scotches and
bourbons. The absence of impurities and air means it melts at a slower rate, and the greater volume relative to its surface area means it dilutes much more slowly, preserving the integrity and flavor of the spirit for a longer period of time. Market research has shown that purchasing ice for a low-cost cocktail, such as an Old Fashioned, can actually increase sales of that cocktail, improving both revenue and cost. Ice has finally returned to a place of prominence in the American drinking scene, and as artisanal ice companies proliferate across the country, the importance of proper ice will only rise.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
97
A BOOK REVIEW by Don Billings
98
in the Mix Magazine
ITS’ A DOGGONE SHAME I HAD NOT SEEN THIS SERIES IN THE PAST. I LOVE THE SIMPLE PERSPECTIVE, HOW IT BONDS US TO MAN’S BEST FRIEND AND NATURE.
– Don Billings, publisher, in the Mix magazine
On a recent trip to Napa wine country, I came across this new wine publication with a unique twist, which is from a dog’s eye view of the vineyard. Everyone knows that California is home to some of America’s most celebrated wine estates. And wherever good wine is made, you’re likely to find a dog scouting the winery or vineyard.
Wine Dogs of California is a large-format book featuring over 120 wineries from around the state, with stunning portraits of their loyal pooches. Along the way, the mutts and purebreds are interspersed with short essays by Robert Parker, Jr., Cole Danehower, Eve Bushman, Jack Burton, Jennifer Rosen and Lori Crantford. Find out which dog holds the pizza-eating record, discover the identity of Sonoma’s infamous lingerie thief and see Elvis, Bob Marley and Keith Richards battle it out for the title of “top dog.” Wine Dogs of California is a photographic journal of stunning pictures and great stories, created all for the love of dogs and wines.
FRENCHIE WINERY ST. HELENA, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Frenchie III French Bulldog, aged 2 Owner: Jean-Charles Boisset Favorite toy: His Maserati Favorite pastime: Chasing after sexy lady dogs in Frenchie Winery Favorite food: Foie Gras, of course
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
99
KENDALL-JACKSON
KENDALL-JACKSON
FULTON, CALIF.
FULTON, CALIF.
LEFT
RIGHT
Dog’s name: Robbie
Dog’s name: Noelle
Labrador, aged 4
Labrador, aged 2
Owners: The Jackson Family
Owners: The Jackson Family
Favorite toys: Customers
Favorite toy: Squeaky toys
Favorite pastime: Getting tummy rubs
Favorite pastime: Taking mud baths
Favorite food: Wild salmon
Favorite food: Cat food
Pet peeve: Dogs
Pet peeve: Being left alone for longer than five minutes
Obsession: Hosting guests
Obsession: Rolling in various unsavory substances
Known accomplices: The Kendall-Jackson staff
Naughtiest deed: Shredding homework and furniture Known accomplices: Siena, Gordie and Buddy
100
in the Mix Magazine
ST. SUPÉRY ESTATE
VINTNER’S COLLECTIVE
RUTHERFORD, CALIF.
NAPA, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Angus
Dog’s name: Soonie
Boxer, aged 6 months
Bichon Frisé, aged 4
Owners: Michael and Amy Scholz
Owners: Manon and Juliette Murphy
Favorite pastime: Riding on the 4-wheeler
Favorite pastime: Chasing imaginary birds
Favorite foods: Cat food and carrots
Pet peeve: Being moved while sleeping on a family member’s pillow
Pet peeves: Diva and Jack cat Obsession: Corks Naughtiest deed: Climbing onto the desk and standing on the keyboard when left alone in the office
Obsession: Stuffed animals to fight with Naughtiest deed: Taking advantage of distracted family members so she can steal food Known accomplice: Her best friend, Truffle the cat
PROVENANCE VINEYARDS ST. HELENA, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Gypsy Toy poodle, aged 9 Owners: Tom and Beverly Rinaldi Favorite toy: The bear Favorite pastime: Sleeping Favorite food: Turkey jerky Pet peeve: Pandora the cat Obsession: Waiting for Tom to come to rub her belly Naughtiest deed: Humping the bear
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
101
KLINKER BRICK WINERY LODI, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Klinker Yorkshire Terrier, aged 9 Owner: Farrah Felten Jolley Favorite toy: Stuffed bunny rabbit Favorite pastime: Playing with his blue racquetball Favorite food: Bacon Pet peeve: Empty wine glasses Obsession: Being the center of attention Naughtiest deed: Licking lips Known accomplice: Vinnie the chiweenie
TARA BELLA WINERY SANTA ROSA, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Presley Basset Hound, aged 3 Owners: Wendy and Kevin Morrow Favorite toy: Anything with a loud squeak Favorite pastime: Singin’ the blues to piano accompaniment Favorite food: Yours Pet peeve: Having his ears cleaned Naughtiest deed: Pulling the end of the toilet paper roll so paper goes throughout the entire house
102
in the Mix Magazine
MALOY O’NEILL VINEYARDS PASO ROBLES, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Tootsie Irish Wolfhound, aged 9 Owners: Shannon and Maureen O’Neill Favorite toy: Stuffed animals Favorite pastimes: Entertaining tasting room visitors, eating tacos and saving lives Favorite food: Al Pastor tacos Pet peeve: Other dogs Obsession: Barking at trucks
GRGICH HILLS ESTATE RUTHERFORD, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Posip Border Collie, aged 7 Owner: Miljenko Grgich Favorite toy: A ball Favorite pastimes: Playing with bocce balls, chasing squirrels, turkeys and other birds Pet peeve: Cats Naughtiest deed: Jumping up to kiss people and dirtying their shirts
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
103
ST. FRANCIS WINERY AND VINEYARDS SANTA ROSA, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Myrna Miniature Wirehaired Dachshund, aged 4 Owners: Kim and Chuck Chenault Favorite toy: Stuffed toy squirrel Favorite pastime: Playing fetch with her toy squirrel Favorite food: Primal Dog food Pet peeve: Getting her feet wet Obsession: Trying to catch the lizards that live in the backyard Naughtiest deed: Digging under the backyard fence five times
TREFETHEN FAMILY VINEYARDS NAPA, CALIF.
Dog’s name: Remington Golden Retriever, aged 4 Owner: Janet Trefethen Favorite toy: Balls Favorite food: Australian liver treats Pet peeve: People who look at the ball but don’t throw it 104
in the Mix Magazine
Obsession: Making sure everyone in the tasting room gives her attention Naughtiest deed: Disappearing into the hills when she was a puppy
Craig McGill and Susan Elliott have been photographing and interviewing some of the most interesting dogs in the wine world. Wine Dogs is the definitive guide to dogs living and working in the vineyard, winery and tasting rooms of wineries around the globe. Established in 1997, Wine Dogs is the original encyclopedia of the winemaker’s best friend – their faithful hound, the winery dog. The first Australian Wine Dogs book was published in 2003 and quickly became a best seller. There are eight volumes of Wine Dogs, including the latest Wine Dogs Australia 2, Wine Dogs USA 2 and Wine Dogs Italy editions and a host of other products such as their very popular Wine Dogs Calendars. The winedogs.com website provides an easy and enjoyable way to review the Wine Dogs dogalogue of products. The website also features the latest Wine Dogs news, information on future editions and everyone’s favorite, The Wine Dog of the Month.
DRAWING TO WIN A WINE DOG BOOK OR CALENDAR ITM and Wine Dogs would like to extend an invitation to all you dog lovers in the hospitality industry, to send us a picture of your dog and background representing your favorite beverage (beer, wine or spirit) preference. Your picture will be entered into a drawing for one of six Wine Dog calendars and a grand prize of a copy of the Wine Dogs of California book. We will then put up all the entries on our website, www.itmmag.com, in the first quarter of 2015. Deadline to enter will be February 28, 2015. Please submit entries to my attention at don@itmmag.com.
Source: winedogs.com. Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
105
Winter Cocktails By Mike Raven
As winter is ushered in, our taste in cocktails takes a decidedly different twist, whether it’s something warm and cozy, or the desire for a Caribbean dream. Special spices, flavors and syrups come into the mix.
Espresso Martini
1 ½ oz Kahlúa 2 oz Absolut Vodka 1 shot freshly-brewed espresso Espresso bean garnish Combine all ingredients in a Boston shaker; shake well and strain into a martini glass. (Substitute in Kahlúa Pumpkin Spice or Kahlúa Peppermint Mocha for a seasonal twist.)
Candy Cane
1 oz Twenty Grand Rosé 1 oz Irish cream liqueur 1 oz peppermint schnapps Candy cane garnish Add liquors to a shaker with ice and shake until well chilled and frothy. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a candy cane and/or crushed candy cane pieces rimming the glass.
106
in the Mix Magazine
Winter Mojito 1 oz ¾ oz ¼ oz 2 6
PAMPERO® Especial Rum fresh lime juice maple syrup dashes bitters mint sprigs
Muddle bitters and all but one sprig of mint in a shaker. Add PAMPERO® Especial Rum, lime juice and maple syrup. Let sit for one minute. Shake hard. Strain over fresh ice, into a double old-fashioned glass and garnish with a sprig of mint.
Bajan Snowfall Created by Lauren Egan at Rogue Island Local Kitchen & Bar
1 ½ oz The Real McCoy 12 Year Aged Rum 3 oz Milk Mix (see recipe below) ½ oz simple syrup ½ oz egg white Shake and serve up in coupe glass. (Optionally, serve on the rocks.)
Milk Mix
Saffron Simple Syrup
(makes 8 servings)
1 cup 1 cup 2 tbsp ¼ tsp ⅛ tsp
3 cups 2 tbsp 1 tsp ¼ tsp 1 4 tbsp 1 tsp
milk Clément Orange Liqueur vanilla liqueur freshly-grated nutmeg cinnamon stick brown sugar Saffron Simple Syrup (see recipe to right)
sugar water lime juice cinnamon saffron
Mix all ingredients and heat on medium until sugar dissolves. Let cool and store in airtight container.
Bring ingredients to a boil, then turn off heat and let steep for 1 hour. Strain, if desired, then cool and store in refrigerator.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
107
El Presidente No. 1
2 parts BACARDÍ Gold rum 1 parts MARTINI® rosso vermouth 1 dash Angostura® bitters Cherry or orange peel twist Place cubes into a mixing glass and add a dash of bitters. Add the rum and vermouth and stir for at least 2 minutes. Fine strain the mix into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a maraschino cherry or orange peel twist.
Kraken Cider
1 oz Kraken Rum 2 ½ oz warm apple cider Add rum to warm cider, stir and garnish with cinnamon stick.
RumChata Gingerbread Martini 1 ½ oz RumChata ¾ oz spiced light rum ¾ oz ginger liqueur A shake of ginger spice
Combine all ingredients in shaker with ice. Shake, strain and enjoy. (Optional: top with fresh whipped cream.)
108
in the Mix Magazine
Madame Moka
By The Cromwell Las Vegas, Sponsored and garnished by Dress The Drink
1 ⅓ oz coffee 1 ¼ oz Hennessy VS Cognac ⅔ oz Disaronno Amaretto ⅓ oz Monin simple syrup Garnished with Dress The Drink Caramel Espresso Stick
Grace By Bound at The Cromwell Las Vegas Recipe by Salvatore, Sponsored and garnished by Dress The Drink
1 ⅔ oz Grey Goose La Poire vodka 1 ⅔ oz bourbon pear purée 1 ⅔ oz fresh apple juice ¾ oz fresh lemon juice 1 tsp honey Fresh lemongrass Mint leaves Garnished with Dress The Drink (DTD) Pear Honey Chip In a Boston shaker, add first 5 ingredients. Shake vigorously with ice and strain into an ice tea glass type. Place fresh lemongrass and mint on top side of vessel. Accent with DTD pear honey chip.
Hendrick’s Cucumber Ginger Mule Martini By Roy’s Pacific Rim Cuisine, Sponsored and garnished by Dress The Drink
Offering nationwide in January 2015 1 oz 1 oz 1 oz 1 ½ oz 4 4
Hendrick’s Gin simple syrup lemon juice ginger beer ginger root slices cucumber slices
DTD crushed cucumber, ginger, lemon zest with hints of sea salt and white sugar blend DTD cucumber, ginger, lemon zest pop Rim martini glass with DTD crushed cucumber, ginger, lemon zest with hints of sea salt and white sugar blend. Set aside. In a Boston shaker, muddle ginger and cucumber. Add remaining ingredients, except for ginger beer. Shake vigorously with ice and strain into chilled martini glass. Top with ginger beer. Garnish with DTD cucumber, ginger, lemon zest pop.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
109
Sparkling Grapefruit Tequila Punch By Kathy Casey Liquid Kitchen® Makes about 16-20 servings.
Wintertime brings us fresh California citrus, highlighted in this cocktail. The punch can be made ahead for special events or pre-mix everything but the Prosecco for individual cocktail service – topping with Prosecco to order. I like to serve this over ice balls.
Cinnamon Syrup
To make the syrup:
2 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 cinnamon sticks, broken up
Combine syrup ingredients in a medium sauce pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat and simmer slowly for about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature before proceeding with recipe. Or you can prepare up to a week in advance and store refrigerated.
Punch 1 bottle Blanco tequila (750 ml) 2 cups fresh squeezed Sunkist® grapefruit juice 1 cup fresh squeezed Sunkist® orange juice ¾ cup fresh squeezed Sunkist® lemon juice 1 ½ tsp Peychaud’s bitters 1 bottle chilled Prosecco Ice mold or ice balls
To make the punch: In a large container, combine the cinnamon syrup, tequila, juices and bitters. Stir to combine well (at this point you can refrigerate the punch for service up to 3 days in advance). Present in a large punch bowl. Add Prosecco right before serving. Serve punch in an Old Fashioned glass over ice or ice balls. Recipe by Kathy Casey Liquid Kitchen®, LiquidKitchen.com Photo by Kathy Casey Liquid Kitchen®
110
in the Mix Magazine
More Precious than Gold Red Velvet Fizztini 3 oz 1 oz 1 oz 2
Fizz56 Brachetto Spumante vanilla vodka crème de cacao lemon wedges
Fill a shaker with ice. Add vodka, crème de cacao and juice of two lemon wedges. Shake and strain into a martini glass, top with Fizz56 and garnish with a lemon twist to serve.
Paper Plane By Mixologist Sam Ross New York, N.Y.
¾ oz bourbon ¾ oz Nonino Quintessentia Amaro (bittersweet Italian liqueur) ¾ oz Aperol (bitter orange Italian aperitif) ¾ oz fresh lemon juice Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add all ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled coupe.
1 ½ oz Milagro Añejo ½ oz dark crème de cacao 4 saffron threads 1 pinch chili flakes ½ oz brown sugar syrup 3 dashes chocolate bitters ½ oz sweet potato puree 1 ½ oz hot water Add all ingredients in small pot and heat until almost boiling. Pour into Irish coffee cup or mug. Top with whipped cream and garnish with saffron.
Spiced Citrus Punch 1 ½ oz spiced rum ½ oz peach schnapps 1 oz Monin Orange Tangerine Syrup 2 oz cranberry juice 1 oz pineapple juice
Combine ingredients in a shaker in the order listed. Cap and shake vigorously. Pour into serving glass and garnish with an orange, lime and lemon slice. Top with a cherry.
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
111
112
in the Mix Magazine
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
113
Trinchero Family Estates Presents: by Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS
Women, Whiskey & Wine Women, Whisky and Wine Barry Wiss, CWE, CSS 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
11
10
12
13
15
14
16
17
18
19
20
21 22 23
24 25 26
27
28 29 30
31
32
33
Across Down Meaning of "Uisgebaugh" 1 Perferred whisky for a Sazerac cocktail Cult winemaker, Helen ________ 2 Greek pine wine DOWN Pinot Noir name in Germany 3 Cal wine region made famous in River lying to the west of Alexander1 Perferred whiskey Sideways for a Sazerac cocktail Valley AVA 4 California wine pioneer, Zelma ______ 7 Cult winemaker, Helen 11________ Number of times distilled for Irish 2 Greek pine5wineSex in the Ciy's favorite sparkler Whiskey 9 Helped many and America's 8 Pinot Noir name in Germany 3 Cal wine region made famous in "dummies" Sideways 16 Grape AKA Prugnolo Gentile and 1st female MW, Mary _______ 10 River lying to the west of Alexander 4 California wine Zelma ______ Brunello Valley AVA 12 pioneer, Minimum proof of bottled whisky 17 for Sings Moscato, Lil _____ 13 Wine author 11 Number of times distilled Irishabout Whiskey 5 Sex in the Ciy’s favoriteBible sparkler 20 Red Breast Irish Whiskey is a good 14 Runs down the side of a wine glass 16 Grape AKA Prugnolo Gentile and Brunello 9 Helped many andthe America’s 1stscream female MW, exapmple of this type 15“dummies” She made "Eagle" Hungary's big red Bull's ______ 18 Baroness Philippine de ________ 17 Sings about Moscato, 22 Lil _____ Mary _______ 23 Sparkling wine (traditional method) in 19 Area known for big peety whisky 20 Red Breast Irish Whiskey isSpain a good example of this type 12 Minimum proof of bottled 21 Food and whisky Wine Pairing Goddess, M.S. 24______ Napa's most planted wine grape 13 Wine Bible author Andrea _______ 22 Hungary’s big red Bull’s 27 Largest whisky area of Scotland 25 Cocktail with whisky and vermouth 23 Sparkling wine (traditional method) in Spain 14 Runs down26 the side of a wine glass used for Bourbon 28 Main grape for Sherry Dominate grain 30 Marchese Antinori's middle daughter 28 “Eagle” Napa scream Valley Top Chef, Cindy ________ 24 Napa’s most planted wine grape 15 She made the 31 Word of dry on a German wine label 29 MW of Oxford Companion, _____ 27 Largest whisky area of32 Scotland 18 Baroness Philippine de ________ Process starting with grain Robinson germination for whisky 31forNumber years barrel aging for a 28 Main grape for Sherry 19 Area known big peety of whisky 33 Inventor of the Aroma Wheel Straight Whisky 6 7 ACROSS 8 10 6 Meaning of “Uisgebaugh”
30 Marchese Antinori’s middle daughter 31 Word for dry on a German wine label 32 Process starting with grain germination for whisky 33 Inventor of the Aroma Wheel
114
in the Mix Magazine
21 Food and Wine Pairing Goddess, M.S. Andrea _______ 25 Cocktail with whisky and vermouth 26 Dominant grain used for Bourbon 28 Napa Valley Top Chef, Cindy ________ 29 MW of Oxford Companion, _____ Robinson 31 Number of years barrel aging for a Straight Whisky
Winter 2014 • itmmag.com
115
116
in the Mix Magazine