S/S 2019 KILGORETROUT.COM
SS 20 19 F ORU M / THE SU B STA N CE OF STYLE MASTER THE ART O F D R ESS IN G W E L L
master the ART of
DRESSING WELL
KILGORETROUT.COM
HIGH PERFORMANCE STYLE MUST-HAVES FOR HER
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CONTENTS
spring/ summer 2019
50 56 52
10 FEATURES
FASHION
DEPARTMENTS
50 MADE-TO-MEASURE:
10 SPRING
4
Welcome Letter
5
Kilgore Trout Events
6
Ask Forum
SHIRT TALES 56 SPIRITS:
SOME LIKE IT HOT 60 GROOMING:
SPLITTING HAIRS
STYLE
GUIDE 16 ALL
ABOUT THE WEEKEND
8 Instructional:
The Right Way
20 TROUT
FOR HER: MUST-HAVES FOR SPRING/SUMMER
18 The
Kilgore Trout Guide for Women
36 30 THE
ART OF DRESSING WELL
61 Kilgore
Trout at Your Service
37 THE
QUEST OR THE PERFECT POLO
38
STEPPING OFF POINT
52 BODIES
Artisans: Soft and Sporty
62 Advice
from the Style Pros
64 Final
Stitch: Pop Psychology
IN MOTION
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ETON, 28601 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD CLEVELAND, OH 44122 216-831-0488 KILGORETROUT.COM FACEBOOK.COM/KILGORETROUTCLEVELAND Editor in Chief RITA GUARNA Creative Director STEPHEN VITARBO Senior Editor DARIA MEOLI Cleveland Editor CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Lifestyle Editor HALEY LONGMAN Art Director VICTORIA BEALL Contributing Photographers MATT SAYERS, DANIEL SPRINGSTON Editor at Large and Founding Editor KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Concept Director ANDREW MITCHELL
PUBLISHING STAFF Publisher SHAE MARCUS Director of Sales MONICA DELLI SANTI Project Manager LISA MENGHI Director of Production & Circulation CHRISTINE HAMEL Advertising Services Director JACQUELYNN FISCHER Graphic Designer, Ad Services VIOLETA MULAJ Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK
APPAREL FORUM
ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL Kilgore Trout is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656 in association with Kilgore Trout. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Kilgore Trout, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Kilgore Trout Circulation Department, 11 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. Printed in the U.S.A. Volume 22, Issue 1. ©2019
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Good food is a celebration of life. - Sophia Loren
EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.
phone: 216.298.9131• email: contact@zackbruellevents.com • view: zackbruellevents.com
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memo
step into spring E
very spring and fall I say the same thing: This is my favorite season—ever! It’s not hyperbole (or B.S.), either. You might think that after 42 years, the life of the shopkeeper could become stale. But the truth is there has never been a more exciting time to be on our end of the clothing business—or yours. When I reflect back to the early years of Kilgore Trout and compare what we were able to offer then to now, it honestly blows my mind. The same technology that has become an indispensable part of our everyday lives has upended—and invigorated—the clothing business like nothing since the development of the sewing machine. Technical fabric blends show up in everything from suits to jeans, making clothing more comfortable, better-fitting, and better-looking than ever. Computer-aided design has reached the shop floor, with resources like Atelier Munro able to build a wardrobe made just for you, sourced globally, tailored locally and in your hands in weeks. Our new designer resources are pushing the fashion envelope. Meanwhile, our legacy brands including Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali, Isaia and Samuelsohn are raising the bar like never before. The past year has been a particular delight, as guys have embraced and rediscovered tailored clothing in numbers we haven’t seen in years—especially the new generation of Kilgore Trout shoppers. So I’ll say it once again: This is my favorite season—ever! We trust you’ll stop by often this spring. We appreciate your business.
Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper Having closed his namesake westside store in 2017 but still wanting to continue to service his many long-time dedicated customers, Giovanni Carrelli called me up one day and said,
“Wally, let’s talk.” Nearly a year later, Giovanni’s Italian tailoring background combined with Kilgore Trout’s deep vendor bench is offering him opportunities to deliver a modern take on the classics and satisfy his clients (and ours) in their homes and offices like never before. Benvenuto, Giovanni.
Lindita and Giovanni Carrelli
< WOOL AND SILK MÉLANGE SUIT MADE TO ORDER FROM OUR ATELIER MUNRO DESK
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in-store
events & POP-UPS MARCH 15-16 Friday-Saturday
Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure
Join Ermenegildo Zegna made-to-measure specialist Laura Donati for the ultimate Su Misura experience. Discover the newest seasonal fabrics and options for made-to-measure clothing, the Casual Luxury made-to-measure collection and expanded in-stock collections of Ermenegildo Zegna clothing and footwear. Email your style advisor for a personal appointment, or stop in. Trout Club points will be earned on Ermenegildo Zegna clothing purchases.
MARCH 29-30 Friday- Saturday
Samuelsohn Made-to-Measure with Magnanni Footwear
THROUGH APRIL 6
Our Restaurant Deal Is Back! Spend $500 or more in one Kilgore Trout visit and we’ll reward you with a $100 gift certificate to a Zack Bruell restaurant. It’s our most popular offer, so take advantage soon. Through April 6, 2019 or while supplies last. Not valid with any other offer or discount. One per customer.
Join Dorian Anderson with the curated collection of super-fine wools and intriguing blends of silks and linens, as well as innovative performance weaves, all individually measured, cut and sewn— masterfully crafted to your movement, posture, size and personal style. Plus, the latest from Magnanni. Trout Club points will be earned on Samuelsohn purchases. Customary Samuelsohn made-to-measure fees will be waived for orders placed at this event.
APRIL 13 Saturday Trout Club members earn points* and receive our seasonal magazine by mail Accrue 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchases, and receive a $50 reward for every 1,000 points. Then spend your reward dollars like cash during redemption periods. *Men’s footwear, alterations, shipping and sales tax are not eligible when earning or redeeming Trout Club points. Visit kilgoretrout.com for full details.
Hudson Jeans (His & Hers) Pop-up denim event for men and women, with Aubrey Heathcott
APRIL 13 Saturday
Faherty & On Sneakers Pop-Up Wendy Thurk presents easy summer living with the Faherty men’s collection. Plus, On performance running shoes
More events to be announced Connect with @kilgoretroutcleveland for the latest news. Kilgore Trout, ETON, 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 ½-mile east of Interstate 271/Chagrin Boulevard exit Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-7
APRIL 27 Saturday
Brax, Trask & Emanuel Berg A head-to-toe pop-up for men: 5-pockets, trousers, shirts & footwear
When you need us, we’re here. Stop by, call us at 216.831.0488 or email your style advisor anytime. Wally wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com Joel jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com Cheryl cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com
Laura lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com Aaron ajacobs@kilgoretrout.com Andrea anaymon@kilgoretrout.com
Paul pconnors@kilgoretrout.com Chrissy cstone@kilgoretrout.com Sandy shossack@kilgoretrout.com
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THE SUB STA N CE OF ST Y L E
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ASK FORUM
solving your fashion dilemmas
The Truth ABOUT TIES
I’m tempted to discard all my old ties as it seems no one is wearing them anymore. What’s the story? Granted, they’re no longer mandatory business attire, but ties are far from extinct. In fact, nothing makes as clear a proclamation about your confidence and competence as wearing a great tie. Whether with a suit, sportcoat or a button-front shirt and jeans, the tie remains a symbol of respect for tradition and of individual style. But don’t confuse 2019 neckwear with what’s on your tie rack. While yesterday’s ties were mostly shiny silk, today’s are often crafted in non-silk or luxury blends, sometimes textured or with a subtle matte finish. For spring, try the new cotton/linen or silk/linen fabrics in modern widths from 2¾ inches to 3¼ inches. Colorful silk prints are still important for creating an upbeat vibe, but knits keep the look fresh. So yes, you can dump the old ties as long as you buy a few new ones. You won’t be sorry!
STAY COOL, Man
Most of my pants and jeans are too heavy (and tight) to wear in hot weather. Are there any options that are lightweight, comfortable and office-appropriate? Yes. We have numerous styles to carry you through spring into summer, including 5-pocket chinos that fit like jeans but are much lighter in weight. With the addition of stretch to traditional fabrics, even slim styles no longer feel tight. In addition to jogger-inspired styles, we carry dressier models in performance fabrics to keep you cool in even the hottest weather. Brax, one of our favorite luxury brands, uses fibers from the kapok tree, Supima cotton and silk. Brax’s dense weaving techniques create an elegant drape in some of the brand’s styles. Bottom line: In this era of advanced fabric technology, pants have never been as cool, comfortable or flattering. It’s a good time to stock up!
GREAT Gifts
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I hate buying clothes as gifts because I’m never certain of size or taste. What do you suggest? You can’t go wrong with accessories. Consider handsome leather wallets or card cases, soft luxury socks, colorful pocket squares in cotton, silk or linen (printed or trimmed at the edge), artisanal wrist jewelry (a hot trend for all ages and styles), fashion belts and lightweight carry-ons and other assorted travel accessories. Stop in and we’ll help you find the perfect gift for your perfect guy. If not, there’s always our gift card option, perhaps the most perfect gift of all! KILGO RE TRO UT S P RING/S U M M ER 2019
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instructional
the
RIGHT
WAY
This gentleman’s primer will help you look perfectly polished. Don’t know the difference between a trilby and a fedora? You’re not alone. Plenty of men eschew accessorizing because they are unsure of the right way to incorporate pieces, such as scarves and vests. Consider this our campaign to change your mind about the sartorial details you may be avoiding. So, go ahead. Follow these tips for donning accessories like a pro and upgrade your summer style. FIT TO BE TIED A group of mathematicians in Stockholm recently calculated that there are 177,147 ways to tie a tie. But most men wear one of three basic tie knots: the four-in-hand, the half Windsor and the full Windsor. The last is a thick, wide triangular knot that is said to project confidence and works well with on-trend spread and cutaway shirt collars. Once you decide on the knot, make sure the tip of your tie ends at the middle of your belt buckle or waistband. Too long and the look is frumpy; too short and it just looks silly.
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And if you still have wide ties hanging in your closet, give them away. The acceptable width for a tie in 2019 ranges from 2¾ inches to 3¼ inches. Historically, silk has been the fabric of choice for neckwear but these days, designers are blending silk with wool, wool with cotton and cotton with linen for a look that’s less shiny and very on trend. Try a luxury blend or a pure cashmere for a more contemporary expression. IN-VESTED There is no right or wrong way to wear a vest: You simply put it over or under anything in your wardrobe for a fashionable, layered look. Trade in the suit jacket or blazer for a knit or twill vest on hot, humid days. Or keep it traditional with a three-piece suit. Simply remove your suit jacket and you’ll still look professional while staying cool. If you want to slenderize your midsection, nothing is more flattering than a knit vest. Rather than wearing a button-front shirt tucked into pants with a dark belt circling the widest part of the body, a knit vest covers the middle, creating a more flattering line. It is best to match the color of the vest to the color of the pants for a minimizing monochromatic look. Or if the vest has a pattern, match the base color to the pants. On those spring days when there is still a nip in the air, a lightweight nylon quilted vest is the quintessential outerwear piece. This season, brightly hued—even neon— outerwear is all the rage. Utility and field vests were popular on the runway for spring, and we love that they combine function with fashion. When traveling, a vest with many pockets will save you from frantically searching through your carry-on for your passport, cash, credit cards, phone, ad infinitum.
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DON’T SCOFF THE SCARF If you’ve traveled to Italy, you’ve probably noticed many more Italian men wear scarves in warmer weather than men in the States do. Even in sweltering heat, you’ll see Italian men draping, tying or wrapping beautiful lengths of fabric around their necks. The good news is tying a scarf is a lot easier than tying a tie. The best way to wear a scarf—the nonchalant Italian way—is simply to drape it around the neck and let the ends hang down. If you prefer to wrap or tie, there are two easy ways to do it: For a once-around wrap, drape the scarf around the neck, one end longer than the other. Wrap the longer end around the neck and let both ends hang down. Our favorite way to wear a scarf: Fold it in half lengthwise, drape it over the neck and bring the loose ends through the opening formed by the folded end. Tighten to your comfort level. For spring, try featherweight cashmere, printed linen and linen blends to add a touch of personality to both sportswear and tailored clothing. TOP IT OFF The fedora remains the quintessential gentleman’s hat. While it’s no longer the 1940s when almost every man in the stands at Yankee Stadium wore a fedora, this classic model remains a widely recognized symbol of masculinity and class. In recent years, however, styles including bucket hats, trilbys and baseball caps have added a suitably rebellious touch to any look— from a T-shirt and jeans to a traditional suit. Once you’ve mastered the rules for styling accessories the “right way,” go ahead and break them to express your own individual style.
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SPRING STYLE GUIDE
Want to look like a winner this season? Kilgore Trout’s style pros combed through the SS19 menswear collections to find the best new looks—both tailored and casual. Shop these curated looks at Kilgore Trout! Photography by Dan Springston
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PATTERN MIXING Wear a classic glen plaid sportcoat in beautiful shades of blue with a dotted tie and printed pocket square, also in the new blues. The secret to pattern mixing: Choose complementary colors, and play with different scales in patterns. Sportcoat, shirt and trousers by Canali, pocket square and tie by Eton.
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RAIN OR SHINE A weatherproof topcoat crafted from a luxury performance fabric is the contemporary version of a raincoat and will take you anywhere. The modern cut fits over a sportcoat. It’s truly a year-round piece, perfect for travel, and a great investment! Topcoat, blazer and trousers by Isaia and shirt by James Perse.
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TONE ON TONE Even in denim jeans, a dark toneon-tone look is the epitome of city style, no matter the season. Wear a white shirt to set off the darker shades and keep the look light. Jacket and sweater by Ermenegildo Zegna, shirt and tie by Eton and jeans by PT01.
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THE CLASSIC SUIT While it sure looks like a traditional suit, the slim-but-not-tight fit is the hallmark of 2019. Thanks to the natural stretch in today’s luxury fabrics, this suit is as comfortable as it is fashionable, which means you can actually move in it. Suit by Canali, shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna and pocket square and tie by Eton.
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THE FLORAL SHIRT A man in floral prints projects confidence and charisma. The shirt’s perfect collar stance is thanks to the second button, which is high enough to look neat without a tie. Sportcoat and shirt by Giannetto Portofino, trousers by PT01 and pocket square by Eton.
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All about
THE WEEKEND
Easy all-cotton comfort for wearing about town and around the house.
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FROM LEFT:
Hiroshi Kato garment dyed chinos Designed and made in the U.S.A. of premium cotton fabric, these chinos will evolve to your body as you wear them to become distinctively yours.
Hiroshi Kato double gauze organic selvedge Japanese cotton shirts Crafted from the best, most comfortable fabrics with special wash techniques developed in-house for shirts that will become better with every wash while maintaining a beautiful silhouette.
S.M.N "Hunter" 5-pocket standard slim trouser The clean silhouettes, hand-crafted washes and lightweight "comfort stretch" twill will wear well over the years. Plus, they're designed and constructed in the industrial heart of Los Angeles.
Xacus cotton shirts Casual, garment-washed shirts with cutaway collar and soft deconstructed cuffs for a sporty, casual look. They take on a more lived-in look after each washing cycle and are sure to be your go-to shirts this summer.
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GUIDE
the
FAIR WEATHER
TRENDS
L’Agence is known for the fit, feel and quality of their garments. And the spring/ summer 2019 collection is no exception. But at Kilgore trout, we are especially excited that the contemporary brand has two of spring’s hottest trends covered. Several designers are combining floral and botanical patterns with leopard and wild cat prints in a bold, sexy style, and L’Agence reflects this trend in an unmistakably upscale way. For days when your mood calls for a more understated cool, L’Agence does spring’s tone-on-tone trend beautifully with blush separates.
BOLDLY GO...
Want a departure from spring’s pastel palette? Whether you favor solid jewel tones or whimsical patterns, you’ll love Emanuel Berg’s blouses for spring and summer. Bright lemon yellow or sea glass teal tops with floral prints paired with black twill shorts reflects the modern, cosmopolitan preppy style. Or, go bold with a mega-watt magenta silk button-front. We’re fans of the classic black polka dot on a white background. These vivid tops are a statement-making alternative to the typical softer shades of spring.
WE’RE ALL EARS Earrings can make a big statement without saying a word. Fresh from Gas Bijoux’s atelier, Kilgore Trout curates a unique selection of some of the brand’s most innovative designs. From colorful, exotic feathers and 24-karat gold to delicate hoops adorned with beads, Gas Bijoux pieces are both cutting-edge and sophisticated. Our favorites are oversized acetate hoops in a rainbow of colors that are wearable day or night.
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All about
THE LACE This summer, Jonathan Simkhai is loosening up. The designer tip toed away from figure-hugging dresses and created a collection full of flirty lace and ruffle frocks, billowy blouses and cargo pants that summon the prairie goddess in every woman. With pieces in shades of pale yellow and dusky rose as well as soft gingham patterns, this beautiful ready-to-wear line emphasizes a woman’s strength and sensuality. We love the flounce of the lace accents on the dresses as well as the slacks that all pair beautifully with ankle boots or sandals. Add a wide-brimmed hat for a walk in the park or a weekend cocktail party. Romantic and versatile, these pieces marry custom fabrics with exquisite details and curvaceous lines.
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Must-haves for
SPRING & SUMMER
Trout for Her Direction/Design: Christopher Hixson Photography: Jim Martin/Dan Springston Styling: Chrissy Stone/Steve Wright
SOH
cashmere & shirting wrap sweater
3x1
high-rise, pin-tucked, cropped jean
Veronica Beard
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Smythe
lace-up longsleeve sailor top
Hudson
high-rise, cropped, rigid denim jean with raw hem
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Vince
cap-sleeve silk blouse
Hudson
mid-rise jean with faded stripe detail
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Vince
silk-lined pencil stripe belted shell
Moussy
rigid denim destructed jean with frayed hem
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L’ Agence
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Herno
from left: quilted vest with contrast trim and jacket with Lurex stripe and detachable hood
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Veronica Beard
ruched sleeve tee and tuxedo stripe trouser
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Jonathan Simkhai
little black dress
L’ Agence
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Mason’s
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L’ Agence
left: silk blouse with drawstring sleeve, “Margot” leopard jean right: printed silk blouse, “Margot” jean
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC
HAIR/MAKEUP: ANTONIO DIAZ WARDROBE: JAMAL LYNTRELL & EMILY BENZIGER
LOC ATION: GILLES CLEMENT DESIGNS\WES TPOR T
IT’S MORE THAN JUST PUTTING ON A STUNNING SUIT OR DRESS . IT’S THE DETAILS . THE PALETTE . THE FABRIC. THE FIT . OUR STYLE ADVISORS ARE HERE TO HELP YOU MASTER THIS VERY FINE ART .
THE ART OF DRESSING WELL KT.ss19.mitchells fashionREV.indd 30
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THIS PAGE SUIT, SHIRT, TIE & POCKET SQUARE: ISAIA
G THIS PAGE JACKET: MASSIMO ALBA SHIRT: PETER MILLAR JEANS: AG; SHOES: VINCE KT.ss19.mitchells fashionREV.indd 31
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FIT COMES FIRST accept nothing less than tailoring perfection
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THIS PAGE SUIT: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHIRT: KILGORE TROUT TIE: CHARVET SHOES: SANTONI OPPOSITE JACKET, SHIRT & PANTS: PETER MILLAR
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THIS PAGE TUXEDO: SAMUELSOHN SHIRT & BOWTIE: ETON OPPOSITE JACKET & SHIRT: OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE
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HONOR TRADITION
with a keen eye open to what’s new & next
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artisans
soft and
SPORTY
In a lightweight sportcoat by Boglioli, less structure can mean more panache. By Karen Alberg Grossman
I
Boglioli creative director Marco Re
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t is said that change in men’s fashion is evolutionary, not revolutionary. But every so often a fashion concept emerges that totally shakes things up. Such was the case when American men were introduced to the Italian art of soft tailoring, or “empty” tailoring, as Boglioli calls it. These are suits and sportcoats with only the lightest-weight canvas between the outer fabric and the lining, so that the jacket conforms to the body. In some cases, there’s no canvas or lining at all, yet these virtually weightless garments add a hefty dose of sophistication and flair. Among the masters of unconstructed tailoring, Boglioli is an “insider’s” brand, much loved by those in the know. In fact, for several generations Boglioli crafted clothing for the most prestigious men’s designers in Italy, who sold it under their own labels. In the late 1990s, the third-generation Boglioli brothers decided to create a collection using their family name. They also began experimenting with a special dyeing and washing process that adds exceptional color and textural nuance to the garment. Boglioli managing director David Newlove explains the process: “The fabrics (often with a pattern woven in) come into our Gambara, Italy, workshop, where we craft the jackets, bundle them and send them to our tintoria in the next village. There they’re dyed and overdyed and sometimes acid-washed for a frost effect. They’re dried and hung and sent back to us for pressing and finishing. The end result: a jacket that’s so soft, luxurious and comfortable that it makes everything else in one’s closet obsolete.” For spring/summer 2019, Newlove is most excited about advancements in the garment dye process using new technology to give a totally unique color palette. “We’re introducing our iconic K jacket now with a cangiante Solaro overdye. It’s finished with a special salt treatment before it’s sent back to our workrooms for final finishing and pressing.” For the quintessential sportcoat for summer travel, Newlove suggests Boglioli’s weightless, super-soft, cotton micro-cord shirting fabric crafted into a K jacket. “In today’s era of relaxed corporate dress codes, guys truly appreciate our concept of ‘empty’ tailoring,” he says. “For many, this type of garment inevitably becomes a favorite piece of clothing—not serious, dressfor-success clothing but a suit or sportcoat to live in.”
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The quest for the perfect
POLO Much like Bigfoot, the Loch Ness Monster or even our namesake Kilgore Trout, some believe the perfect-fitting polo is a myth. Legendary Italian shirt maker Fedeli begs to differ. ›100% Giza 45 cotton knitted pique ›Troca and mother-of-pearl buttons ›Spread collar and ribbed cuffs ›Matching Lycot details ›Perfect weight for Ohio summers ›Made in northern Italy
Try one on. You’ll be a believer. S P R I N G /S U M M E R 2 019 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E
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fashion SPRING & SUMMER 2019
Stepping off
POINT
Our must-haves are inspired by the runway, then curated for the Kilgore Trout gentleman. Produced by CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Photographed by JIM MARTIN Post-production by MIKE STEINER Styling by CHRISSY STONE and STEVE WRIGHT
Runway INSPIRATION
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PHOTO: ETRO
Etro’s bold and playful use of color, pattern and texture always bowls us over, but off the runway a little bit goes a long way.
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Kilgore Trout
VARIATION Etro jersey sportcoat and hidden zebra print shirt
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PHOTO: BOGLIOLI
Kilgore Trout
VARIATION
Runway INSPIRATION
Boglioli shirt-constructed, overdyed sport jacket, James Perse plain white tee, Mason’s pindot trouser, Anderson's stretch woven belt, and Golden Goose sneakers
Boglioli showed this tonal, color-washed unconstructed jacket. We think their wide stripe model offers a more casual take for our Cleveland summer.
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Kilgore Trout
VARIATION Canali wool, silk and linen suit, Eton cotton shirt with contrast ribbon and buttons and Ermenegildo Zegna silk square
Runway INSPIRATION
PHOTO: CANALI
Canali looked great on the runway, and we loved the color, but the blue shirt tries a bit too hard. We vote for the soft striped version at left, with just the right touch of blue in the crisp white shirt.
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The cut of this Officine Générale jacket was a winner, but it's even more irresistible in summer linen with a wide notch lapel and safariinspired creases and buttons.
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PHOTO: OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE
Runway INSPIRATION
Kilgore Trout
VARIATION Giannetto Portofino linen jacket and soft cotton printed shirt, PT01 travel pant in lightweight microfiber with concealed zip pockets in the waistband and side seam
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PHOTO: PHIL PETTER
Runway INSPIRATION Unless you're a gondolier in Venice, we're not going to sell you this striped shirt. That said, we love Phil Petter's sweater jacket and signature stripe.
Kilgore Trout
VARIATION Phil Petter cotton knit track jacket, Hiroshi Kato 4-way stretch slim French terry chino, Common Projects sneakers
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Runway INSPIRATION
PHOTO: OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE
Officine Générale's super light and super bright windbreaker is a standout whether layered or the star of the show.
Kilgore Trout
VARIATION Officine Générale hooded high-visibility windbreaker and banded collar cotton shirt, Mason's glen plaid trouser
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PHOTO: ISAIA
Runway INSPIRATION The Isaia chalk stripe double-breasted blazer was a stunner, but you'll get a lot more mileage out of the solid color variation we chose.
Kilgore Trout
VARIATION Isaia double-breasted wool and silk blazer, cotton shirt and cotton twill trouser
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PHOTO: THEIDLEMAN.COM
Runway INSPIRATION We're fans of military green, a hue that's coming on strong in menswear. We chose the more casual, unstructured jacket from Altea, perfect for pairing with chinos or jeans.
Kilgore Trout
VARIATION
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Altea unstructured cotton and silk blend jacket and cotton and linen crew sweater, Em's of Mason’s diamond weave chino
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PHOTO: THEIDLEMAN.COM
Kilgore Trout
Mason’s cotton chino with outseam detail, Phil Petter stretch knit polo
PHOTO: MASON'S
VARIATION
Runway INSPIRATION Mason's produces the coolest camouflage in the industry. It's a great look, but as with many things in life, we recommend moderation.
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VARIATION Ermenegildo Zegna Crossover linen blend sportcoat, high performance knit crew, and linen and wool blend trouser
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Runway INSPIRATION Ermenegildo Zegna walks headturning concepts. This layered, highly constructed suit won't make it into production, but the unconstructed jacket we chose is reminiscent of its soft plum palette and not-quite-plaid weave.
PHOTO: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Kilgore Trout
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shirt TALES
Your style. Your comfort. Your exact fit. Made-to-measure is a shirt story that always has a happy ending. By Darius Amos Don’t get us wrong: We love off-the-rack garments, and they can create memorable looks. But face it—those shirts don’t fit like a made-to-measure shirt. Not every guy is an average Joe, so standard retail sizes and designs won’t always cut it. Because made-to-measure is based on your measurements, each shirt is guaranteed to fit perfectly. We offer made-to-measure shirts from some of the world’s finest designers—Ermenegildo Zegna, Eton and Isaia to name a few—in addition to the country’s top dedicated shirtmakers. Each of the renowned brands has its own distinctive style, and we know you do too. So what do you have to do to get your unique piece? That’s easy: Let us do the work. A common misconception is that made-to-measure is a complicated and costly proposition. That’s not at all true. We partner with makers to offer options at several price points, making it accessible for everyone. Here’s how it works: Our made-to-measure experts will talk to you about your personal style, fit, details and occasion. We will take you through the seemingly countless number of options to design exactly what you have in mind. Whether it’s formal, business or casual—we can do it all. THE PROCESS First, our tailors will take all your measurements—chest, neck, shoulders, arms, biceps (have you been working out?), waistline, the works. Next, you’ll select the material that will eventually go on your back and whether your shirt will be a single solid color or two tones, adorned with elegant stripes, boast a nice checked pattern or more. Our wide assortment of fabrics comes only from the most demanding mills in the world, and they satisfy all needs, wants and styles. Loose, athletic or slim fit? It’s all up to you.
ELEMENTS OF STYLE Here is where you let your creativity and attitude shine. We’ll present you with a seemingly endless number of options to customize your shirt. Think about the type of collar you prefer. For instance, the cutaway collar provides plenty of room if you wear a Windsor tie knot; the spread collar has a wide yet crisp look with or without a tie. You have your choice of cuffs too. A two-button barrel cuff is perfect for every day or to wear to a more casual office. Rounded cuffs add a touch of formality to your look or choose a sophisticated French or double cuff if you’re headed to a black-tie event or just like to wear cufflinks. Personalization doesn’t end there. Mother-of-pearl buttons? Placket or no placket? One, two or no pockets? Monogrammed or clean look? You decide. WHAT TO EXPECT Forget about spending hours trying on clothes in a tight changing room. Once tailors have confirmed your measurements and design selections, your job is essentially done. Made-to-measure shirts require few fittings, or in some cases none at all. (That’s more time to shop in our store for sportcoats and ties to complete the look!) It’s a modest investment of time and, if we may say so, a pretty good deal. Typically, the turnaround time for a made-to-measure shirt is three to five weeks. And you’ll pay $160 to $300 for it—about the same as a fine shirt that’s ready to wear. You can start with just one if you like, but we’re fairly sure you won’t stop there. But be warned. Once you’ve tried made-to-measure, you may find it hard to go back to off-the-rack.
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MOTION
Today’s luxury lightweight performance fabrics won’t slow you down, and they’ll keep you looking sharp.
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Luxury knit joggers are comfortable enough to sleep in while stylish enough to wear out and about. And yes, they pair well with tailored clothing, so you can change up your office garb. Jacket, drawstring sweatpants and polo shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna and loafers by Magnanni.
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Not your father’s navy blazer, this unstructured jacket is crafted in Italy from Dustin cashmere knit with stretch. Perfect with dress pants or jeans, this sportcoat will take you anywhere. Sportcoat, shirt and jeans by Isaia.
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Sportcoat or cardigan? You decide. This unstructured miracle of tailoring will be the most comfortable and versatile garment you’ll ever wear. Sportcoat by Samuelsohn, shirt by Giannetto Portofino and pants by PT01.
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cheers
some like IT HOT
Summer can be an ideal time for adventurous cocktail concoctions that really spice things up. By Daria Meoli
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ndian vindaloo, Ethiopian doro wat, Mexican chilate de pollo—have you ever wondered why some of the spiciest flavors originate in cuisines from the warmest climates? Super-spicy dishes actually can be refreshing on a sweltering summer night— and the same holds true for cocktails with a kick. Ingredients with heat increase circulation and raise body temperature, helping the body adapt to warm weather. Like a bowl of chili at an August barbecue, piquant potions can be—ironically—quite invigorating when it’s hot and steamy out. Libations made with sriracha, wasabi and other hot mixers can hit the spot in summertime. On the tail of last year’s turmeric trend, top mixologists and bartenders are looking to bring even more internationally inspired heat to their repertoire. They are exploring creative ways to balance savory spice with citrus and herbal notes (think tequila infused with serrano chiles mixed with fresh cucumber juice, basil, lemon and agave). At BlackTail, the Cuban-themed New York City watering hole named “Best New Cocktail Bar in America” at the 2017 Spirited Awards, the bar team continuously reviews their cocktails to make sure they give guests the kick they crave. They’ve added heat to Manhattans, pineapple-tequila sours and cucumber Collins. Behind the bar, they stock spicy bitters (Hellfire Bitters, Jamaican Jerk Bitters) and house-made infusions (Scotch bonnet oloroso sherry, ancho chile sweet vermouth and jalapeño gin) as well as bottles of Ancho Reyes Verde and St. George Green Chile Vodka. For recreational mixologists, there are many ways to add heat to favorite recipes at
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home. Spice up a tried-and-true margarita by swapping out traditional salt for dried and ground chipotle or put pepper-infused salt around the rim of the glass. Top off the five o’clock martini or traditional old-fashioned with a splash of habanero bitters or hot sauce. Hot peppers cause an endorphin release, and one way to chase a blissed-out, capsaicin-induced high is to make ice from hot-pepper-infused water. Add thin slices of jalapeños or cayenne peppers in one or two cups of water for about half an hour. Remove the pepper slices and use that water to fill an ice cube tray. Toss the cubes in a rocks glass with your favorite whiskey, tequila or vodka. As the cubes melt, you’ll really begin to feel that good kind of burn at the back of your throat. Talk about fire and ice! The best approach to experimenting with heat is to start conservatively, because alcohol intensifies the flavor of spices. “Different proof bases can extract different amounts of spice from specific ingredients,” says Will Pasternak, head bartender at BlackTail. “A higher proof base (like a 40 percent ABV gin) will extract much more spice than a less alcoholic base (like a 17 percent ABV vermouth). We use different quantities of alcohol to get the precise level of heat we want.” If your spicy kick inadvertently turns into a five-alarm blaze, add some agave syrup—the sweetness will counterbalance the heat. Should the occasion call for a more elaborate—and adventurous—cocktail, there are many delicious ways to bring the heat. We asked three expert mixologists how they play with fire to create spicy summer cocktails, and each shared a favorite recipe.
THE GARDEN PALOMA
Created by Meaghan Dorman of Raines Law Room, New York City
Move over, margarita. La paloma is the most popular tequila-based cocktail in Mexico. A traditional la paloma (which translates to “the dove”) is a simple and refreshing option that combines grapefruit juice, lime juice and tequila with club soda. But at Raines Law Room, a renowned New York City speakeasy named for an ill-fated 1896 law intended to curb city residents’ liquor consumption, bar director Meaghan Dorman adds house-made jalapeño agave syrup to create a paloma that is más caliente. For the cocktail: 2 oz blanco tequila 1 oz fresh grapefruit juice ½ oz fresh lime juice 2 dashes celery bitters ¾ oz jalapeño agave syrup 2 oz club soda Pinch of sea salt Lime wedge For the jalapeño agave syrup: 5 jalapeño peppers, sliced 2 cups boiling water 2 cups agave syrup To make the jalapeño agave syrup, muddle peppers into a paste in a heatproof bowl or other container. Pour boiling water over peppers and stir in agave syrup. Let steep for 20 minutes, then strain. For the cocktail, add tequila, grapefruit juice, lime juice, celery bitters and jalapeño agave syrup to shaker filled with ice. Shake until well chilled and strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top the cocktail off with club soda and garnish with a pinch of sea salt and lime wedge.
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DATE IN INDIA
Created by Raul Ayala of Dirty Habit, San Francisco
Created by Adam Dreyer of The Bad Apple, Chicago
At Dirty Habit, a restaurant and lounge on the fifth floor of the Hotel Palomar, bar manager Raul Ayala favors mixing brown aged spirits with fruity and smoky flavors, like dried chiles, and clear spirits with fresh green heat, such as serrano peppers, for an earthy, herbal touch. One concoction in particular—Date in India—keeps returning to the cocktail menu due to high demand. It’s a culture clash in a glass, blending Thai kaffir lime leaves, Mexican chile de arbol peppers and a liqueur made from Croatian cherries. This fire starter has all the makings for an exotic and memorable summer cocktail hour.
Adam Dreyer, bar manager at The Bad Apple in Chicago, draws inspiration from the fresh ingredients his kitchen procures from nearby farms. The Calvin and Habanero is one popular cocktail that got its start in the kitchen. “Our chef brought in some blackberries and black raspberries and our chef made a habanero and berry hot sauce,” says Dreyer. “We took it a step further by fashioning a cocktail inspired by the flavors in this spicy yet refreshing hot sauce our kitchen cooked up.” Though this tequila-based drink is named for a cartoon boy and his imaginary tiger friend, the heat in this cocktail isn’t child’s play. Dreyer infuses tequila with habaneros because they are not only one of the spiciest peppers, but also have a floral essence.
For the cocktail: 1.5 oz Del Maguey VIDA Mezcal ¾ oz fresh-squeezed lime juice ¾ oz spicy tamarind syrup ½ oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur Dehydrated orange slice Black Tajin-inspired seasoning For the spicy tamarind syrup: 1½ cups tamarind purée 1½ cups sugar 2 oz ginger (clean and chopped) 3 kaffir lime leaves 3 pieces chile de arbol (also known as bird’s beak chiles) For the black Tajin-inspired seasoning: 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. chipotle powder 2 tsp. salt ½ tsp. activated charcoal For the syrup, combine all of the ingredients for the spicy tamarind syrup in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let the mixture cool, then strain. Combine all ingredients for the Tajin-inspired seasoning. When you are ready to make the cocktail, combine all the ingredients—including the spicy tamarind syrup—and shake. Double-strain the mixture, then serve in a double old-fashioned glass and garnish with a dehydrated orange slice and black Tajin-inspired seasoning.
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THE CALVIN AND HABANERO
For the cocktail: 1½ oz habanero-infused blanco tequila 1 oz blackberry syrup or purée 1 oz lemon juice Ginger beer to taste For the habanero-infused blanco tequila: 4 habanero peppers 1 bottle of blanco tequila For the blackberry syrup or purée: 1 cup blackberries 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 Tbsp. sugar To infuse the tequila, cut 4 habaneros in half, add to one bottle of tequila. Let it sit for 4 hours and then strain. Some batches of peppers are spicier than others, so taste the infusion as it sits. To make the blackberry syrup or purée, add the berries to a saucepan with lemon juice and sugar. Mash the berries a bit and let them macerate before turning on the heat. Once the sugar has brought out some of the berries’ juices, turn the heat on medium. Let the mixture simmer for about 10 minutes, then remove from heat. After it cools, either blend the mixture and serve as a purée or put it through a strainer and use just the syrup. Add all ingredients and some ice to a small shaker. Shake then pour into a glass rimmed with salt and top with ginger beer.
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grooming
HAIRLINE Cutting and trimming the hair on your head should be left to the experts for obvious reasons, but you can maintain a wellgroomed hairline in between cuts. How? By washing your hair every two to three days rather than daily and by not weighing it down too many products. These practices not only keep hair healthier, but also make it look thicker, thus helping to disguise receding hairlines. A bit of pomade and a comb—or your fingers—is all that’s needed to maintain your hairline on a daily basis, but you can also keep a small electric razor handy for when you need to tidy up around the edges. EYEBROWS The number-one rule for grooming your brows? Don’t overdo it. That means keeping their natural, straight shape—arched brows have a more feminine look—and only getting rid of the stragglers. To avoid the dreaded unibrow, start by placing your finger on the bridge of your nose and plucking only the hairs your finger touches. Then maintain the shape and look of the brows by trimming monthly or so; just brush hairs upwards and snip only the ends (or have your barber do it for you). Tweezing carefully and sparingly with an angled tweezer is an option too, but under no circumstances should you wax those bad boys just because the lady in your life is doing it. You’ve been warned. BEARD Once your beard has reached the desired length, train the hairs to grow in a downward direction by brushing daily with a boar bristle brush. Then use grooming scissors or an electric razor with the guard setting of your choice once a week or so to trim and get rid of split ends and strays. Just make sure you do so with the grain to minimize bumps and irritation. Finally, keep your beard and mustache clean by rinsing with a beard wash or mild soap and water two to three times a week—and add a moisturizing beard oil when you’re feeling fancy (or itchy).
Splitting
HAIRS
Tonsorially uncertain? Here’s how to trim—and buzz—and brush—and tweeze to look your best.
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CHEST Similar rules apply when going below the neck; always trim—do not shave, please—with the grain to reduce irritation. But how low should you go? There’s no harm in manscaping down to your belly button—“happy trail” included—but make sure the amount of hair on your torso matches with the amount on your face. You don’t want to be scruffy up top and resemble a boy bander below the neck, do you? Also, start with a higher guard setting when buzzing here. You can always go back in for another round later if it’s still too scraggly, but you can’t undo a too-short style.
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always &
ALL WAYS The Kilgore Trout style advisors are here to help.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in madeto-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.
ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.
BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.
CUSTOMER LOUNGE
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.
HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office.
PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand-delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.
CLOSET CLEANING One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. An experienced tailor can also be on hand to provide any fitting or readjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and eases your shopping experience. We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.
In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen. We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.
TROUT CLUB REWARD PROGRAM Earn points with every qualifying purchase and receive this magazine by mail each season: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent. Twice each year, we’ll email you a summary of your available Trout Club rewards.
GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout Gift Card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination and arrive in a gift box, ready to give. Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.
CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customers. Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime and we’ll donate them to a local charity providing clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.
CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options and over 50 retailers to satiate your every need. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor. Need to know more? Call us at 216.831.0488.
CONNECT WITH US Connect with kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest news, trends and events.
ETON 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-7
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trout team
advice from the STYLE PROS
The style advisors and behind-the-scenes staff at Kilgore Trout are dedicated experts who make shopping fun. Let’s get to know them better.
WALLY
JOEL
CHERYL
PAUL
ANDREA
CHRISSY
Favorite spring accessory? Ermenegildo Zegna sunglasses
Favorite spring accessory? Etro pocket squares
Favorite spring accessory? Pocket squares
Favorite spring accessory? Bright-colored jackets
Favorite spring accessory? S’well bottle
Favorite spring accessory? Fun-colored nail polish
Single- or doublebreasted jacket? Single—with attitude, cool linings, ticket pocket, functional button holes
Single- or doublebreasted jacket? Both!
Single- or doublebreasted jacket? Double, at the moment
Worst fashion faux pas? Totally ripped jeans where the knees are torn out
Worst fashion faux pas? Men in bad shoes and baggy jeans
Worst fashion faux pas? Dad fit jeans
Celebrity style icon? Julia Louis-Dreyfus
Single- or doublebreasted jacket? Women: double, fitted Men: single, for sure
Celebrity style icon? Cary Grant
What did you want to be when you grew up? ER doctor
Naymon
Single- or doublebreasted jacket? Single Worst fashion faux pas? When a couple goes out and the woman looks fabulous, but the guy dresses as though he just finished cleaning the garage Celebrity style icon? George Clooney What did you want to be when you grew up? MLB baseball player What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? Curb Your Enthusiasm Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? Parallax or Marble Room Last book you read? Latest edition of Jack Mitchell’s Hug Your Customers
Stecker
Worst fashion faux pas? Wearing outdated tailored clothing with big pleated trousers Celebrity style icon? Ralph Lauren What did you want to be when you grew up? Rock musician What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? Seinfeld, still Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? L’Albatros, definitely
MacMaster
Celebrity style icon? Fred Astaire What did you want to be when you grew up? Veterinarian What’s your favorite fashion era? Mid-1960s What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon
Favorite home-cooked meal, and whose recipe? My wife Rose’s beef tenderloin dinner
Connors
What did you want to be when you grew up? Ralph Lauren What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? Friends Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? Dinerbar on Clifton What is your favorite fashion era? 1940s Favorite home-cooked meal, and whose recipe? Mom’s meatloaf
Naymon
What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? Seinfeld Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? Any Zack Bruell restaurant What is your favorite fashion era? Right now Last book you read? Jo Malone: My Story Favorite home-cooked meal, and whose recipe? My mom’s turkey dinner on Thanksgiving
Stone
Worst fashion faux pas? Wearing incorrect undergarments Celebrity style icon? Rachel Zoe What did you want to be when you grew up? Steve Irwin, The Crocodile Hunter What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? The 40-Year-Old Virgin Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? Barrio, because...queso What is your favorite fashion era? ’90s grunge
Favorite home-cooked meal, and whose recipe? Andrea’s Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing
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LAURA
AARON
DEBBIE
Favorite spring accessory? Cross-body bags worn with a light suede or cashmere blazer
Favorite spring accessory? Bold, timeless sunglasses
What did you want to be when you grew up? Teacher
Single- or doublebreasted jacket? Double, all day
What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? Young Sheldon
Marotta
Worst fashion faux pas? Buttoning the bottom button of a sportcoat or suit—never! Celebrity style icon? HRH Prince Edward What did you want to be when you grew up? A movie star, of course! What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? Seinfeld. Everything can go back to a Seinfeld-ism.
Jacobs
Worst fashion faux pas? Buttoning the bottom button. It’s like saying, “I have no idea what I’m doing.”
Meder (office manager)
Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? L’Albatros, Town Hall, Flying Fig, Fire, Marotta’s
PATTY
Last book you read? You Are a Bad Ass: How to Stop Doubting Your Greatness and Start Living Your Awesome Life by Jen Sincero
What did you want to be when you grew up? Veterinarian
Marrali (receiver) Celebrity style icon? Sarah Jessica Parker
Favorite spring accessories? Scarves What did you want to be when you grew up? Happy
GIOVANNI
ROSETTA
DANNY
Single- or doublebreasted jacket? Single
Favorite spring accessory? Bags
Worst fashion faux pas? Jeans
What did you want to be when you grew up? Rich
What did you want to be when you grew up? I’m not gonna answer your silly questions.
Del Buso
Last book you read? Infinite Jest by David Foster Wallace
Hossack
Our tailors and seamstresses are men and women of many skills, but few words.
Favorite home cooked meal, and whose recipe? Chicken Marsala, my own
Celebrity style icon? Antoni Porowski
SANDY
tailoring PROS
Last book you read? An Anonymous Girl by Greer Hendricks Favorite home-cooked meal, and whose recipe? My grandma’s roast beef and mashed potatoes
What did you want to be when you grew up? Police officer Celebrity style icon? Nobody Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? No place Favorite home-cooked meal, and whose recipe? Spaghetti
Finelli
Iapaolo
What movie or TV show makes you laugh out loud? Home Alone Celebrity style icon? Audrey Hepburn Where do you take out-of-town visitors to dinner? My house Favorite home-cooked meal, and whose recipe? Spaghetti, mine
VIRA
Sobkiv What did you want to be when you grew up? It’s bad enough you want to take my picture; now you want my life story?
Celebrity style icon? Jennifer Lopez SPR IN G/SUMMER 2019 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E
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PSYCHOLOGY
In honor of Father’s Day, top menswear execs share lessons they’ve learned from Dad. By Karen Alberg Grossman
“Whoever does not have a good father should procure one,” advised the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche. The importance of fatherhood is universally recognized, as is the tremendous impact fathers have. Here, top menswear execs share some of the wisdom they’ve derived from their dads: Ermenegildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna “My father Angelo was my role model. He taught me the importance of family and how to lead by example. He showed his children the significance of having vision, of taking risks, of thinking longterm. Most important, my father had a strong sense of humility and discipline. I am forever grateful to have learned these attributes from such an important figure in my life.” Brunello Cucinelli, CEO and founder of Brunello Cucinelli “Be ever so careful that the ox does not step out of the furrow.” As odd as this might sound, the greatest teaching I received from my father stems from this warning. My family were farmers in Umbria, and each of us had a precise task to carry out in order to make ends meet. One of my tasks was to lead the oxen during ploughing, while my father would operate the plough behind me. Once our work was done, he would stare at the newly traced furrows and say with satisfaction: ‘See how perfectly straight they are? Good job!’ And when I asked him why it was so important, he would reply: ‘Because they look better straight!’ “As a teenager I did not pay much attention. But over the years I’ve started to slowly understand how many things were meant by that apparently simple warning, and how important they all were. “I understood that the ploughshare, polished by use, shines in the sun like the purity of human labor; that the furrow is like the womb of generous Mother Earth; that year after year, through our ploughing, we were writing the great book of fathers; that tradition holds the values of the brightest future; that the straight furrow represents the integrity of the righteous. “Last but not least, I understood that beauty is indispensable for a good life. I thank my father and, so far, I’ve always tried to live by his teachings.”
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Arnold Silverstone, creative director, Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman “My dad Peter is a judicious businessman, a loving, devoted family man, a competitive sportsman and a generous human being. He’s set the bar high in terms of how to live life with passion, commitment and integrity. “It’s no surprise that I followed his footsteps into the fashion business. Because he had his own tailored clothing company, I was able to study by his side from childhood. He always had the courage to allow me to fail and learn from my mistakes; he was always there for me when I needed him. Among my greatest joys has been having him with me during several of my career high points and to see the pride in his eyes. That’s the same pride I’ve always had for my incredible dad.” Mike Faherty, co-founder of Faherty Brand “I’ve always had a fascination with clothing and style. My dad Roger, who worked in finance on Wall Street, was a sharp dresser with genuine flair and a deep appreciation for quality fabrics and construction, which certainly rubbed off on me. I remember his closet full of tailored suits neatly lined up for the week and the perfectly soft Hawaiian shirts he would wear with panache in the summer. The clothing brand my brother and I founded six years ago is in many ways an homage to our dad.” Gianluca Isaia, CEO of Isaia “My Way sung by Frank Sinatra was my father’s favorite song, and it’s the way he lived his life. Everything I know about our business I learned from my father, Enrico. He was a risk-taker and pioneer
in his field, taking over for my grandfather to run the second generation business. “Throughout my career, I had the great fortune to travel across the globe with this man who taught me every aspect of the business. Everything you do has an impact. It was amazing to work alongside him and experience firsthand the evolution of the brand. One piece of advice he gave me was the Latin phrase ‘Etiam capillus unus habet umbram suam,’ which means even a single hair casts a shadow. “My father had a great sense of style and was one of the first members of Pitti Uomo [the menswear trade show in Florence], which he attended regularly throughout his lifetime. He loved the Neapolitan classics and took styling references from elegant Neapolitan men as well as from Totò and other Italian film greats. Ultimately, though, my father taught me to define my own sense of style. “We carry on his legacy at Isaia by working hard and never compromising who we are and our own identity—made in Napoli.”
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