unhurried and uncommon since 1977
STYLE REBOOT
MEN’S FOOTWEAR TRENDS
WHAT’S IN STORE?
UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS, TRUNK EVENTS AND MORE
ARCHITECTURE
OF STYLE
THE INTERSECTION OF FORM & FUNCTION
CLEVELAND’S IN SEASON
WELCOME TO BELIEVELAND THE EXCLUSIVE MAGAZINE FOR TROUT CLUB MEMBERS
Excellence in Made to Measure Tailoring Su Misura offers the privilege of designing a wardrobe that perfectly reflects your individuality and the tailoring excellence of artisan craftsmanship. It guarantees a choice of over 500 exclusive fabrics, including Trofeo, 15MilMil15, High Performance and Elements Trofeo-Cashmere.
THIS IS WHAT WINNING FEELS LIKE. REMEMBER WHEN THE YEAR’S BIG CLEVELAND STORY WAS THE 2016 REPUBLICAN NATIONAL CONVENTION? BY WALLY NAYMON, SHOPKEEPER
PHOTO ©ANDREW WEBER, ANDREWJWEBER.COM
W
e were all breathless with anticipation for the chance we’d finally have to share Cleveland’s renaissance with the nation and the world. Our city never looked better: new hotels were booked solid; Public Square had received the makeover of the century; downtown was abuzz with excitement for the 50,000 visitors, delegates and media about to descend on our city. Finally—yes, FINALLY—we’d have something big— REALLY BIG—to celebrate. But here on the North Coast things never turn out quite the way we plan, so why should this year have been any different? So while the RNC exposed our city to millions around the world, the real story this year turned out to be the odyssey of homegrown perseverence, talent and tenacity—our Cleveland Cavaliers—and their epic battle for the NBA championship. And for once, we snatched victory from the jaws of defeat...instead of the other way around. Years ago, Browns receiver Josh Cribbs remarked, “We almost win. We almost always almost win.” And that was the solitary truth of Cleveland sports. Until this year. Our guys did it in true Cleveland fashion, too: Game seven. Score tied. Less than a minute on the clock. The enemy’s court. That’s winning The Hard Way on Purpose, as local writer David Giffels dubbed it in his collection of essays (of the same name) on coming of age in the Rust Belt and the heartbreak of Cleveland sports. For the million-plus fans who waited a lifetime to celebrate victory in the streets of Cleveland, we wouldn’t have wanted it any other way. Thanks for shopping with us, enjoy this issue of the magazine, and we hope to see you soon at Kilgore Trout.
CONTENTS 28601 Eton Chagrin Boulevard Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle CLEVELAND EDITOR
Christopher Hixson PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNER
Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell
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DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
FEATURES
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP
26 Profile: Peter Millar 28 Why a Multi-Brand Store? 34 Profile: PT01
PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
FASHION 9 22 24 36 52 58
Autumn Kilgore Trout Style Footwear Trends Bundle Up Architecture of Style Menswear Rules Quality: Hallmarks of Top Tailoring
DEPARTMENTS 2 6 30 32 60 62 64
Welcome Letter In Store Ask Forum Designers: The Giving Season The Fashion Forum Travel: Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit At Your Service
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA
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Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2016. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 19, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
in store
Events
SEPTEMBER 9–10 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
OCTOBER 8 SATURDAY
Join Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure Specialist Alessandro Acquadro for the ultimate “Su Misura” experience. Discover the new fall/winter seasonal fabrics, check out the Casual Luxury made-to-measure collection, and preview expanded in-stock collections from Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna. Call or email your sales consultant for your personal appointment, or just stop in.
This season’s offering of over 500 fabrics includes exclusive selections in classic wools, wool and silk blends, and ultra-fine 200s, textiles for the connoisseur. Schedule your consultation with Canali specialist Peter Belci.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MADE-TO-MEASURE
(Trout Club points will be earned.)
SEPTEMBER 30–OCTOBER 1 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
SAMUELSOHN & MAGNANNI
Customary made-to-measure fees will be waived. Free Magnanni belt with Magnanni shoe purchase. Dorian Anderson will be in store with the extraordinary fall/ winter fabric swatches from Samuelsohn, maker of performance suits and sportcoats. Plus, Colin Combes with the latest men’s footwear from Magnanni, and a gift with your Magnanni purchase. (Order must be placed at event. Trout Club points will be earned.)
CANALI MADE-TO-MEASURE
(Gift card may not be used toward Canali purchase.)
OCTOBER 15 SATURDAY
BOGLIOLI MADE-TO-MEASURE
Boglioli champions the relaxed-look luxury revolution with a distinctly Italian perspective: meticulously crafted clothing with unstructured comfort and elegance. Kilgore Trout is located at Eton Chagrin Boulevard— Cleveland’s finest shopping destination—just 1/2 mile east of Interstate 271/Chagrin Boulevard exit. 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-8
MORE EVENTS TO BE ANNOUNCED Connect with kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest news.
TROUT CLUB MEMBERS EARN POINTS WITH EVERY PURCHASE, AND RECEIVE OUR MAGAZINE BY MAIL! Accrue 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchases, and receive a $50 reward for every 1000 points. Then spend your reward dollars like cash during redemption periods. (*Men’s
footwear, alterations, shipping and sales tax are not eligible when earning or redeeming Trout Club points. Visit kilgoretrout.com for full details and to enroll.)
WHEN YOU NEED US, WE’RE HERE. CONTACT US ANYTIME AT 216.831.0488, OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT DIRECTLY: Wally Joel Cheryl
wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com
Laura lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com Marco mrinaldi@kilgoretrout.com Andrea anaymon@kilgoretrout.com
Paul pconnors@kilgoretrout.com Chrissy cstone@kilgoretrout.com Sandy shossack@kilgoretrout.com
S.M.N.
S.M.N. IS DENIM THAT'S SIMPLE. MODERN. NONPAREIL. SLOWLY DEPARTING FROM THE SUPER-SOFT, STRETCHY DENIM THAT WE HAVE BEEN SEEING OVER THE PAST DECADE, S.M.N. TAKES AN OVERLY SIMPLISTIC APPROACH TO AN EVEN SIMPLER CONCEPT: DENIM THAT NOT ONLY LOOKS AND FEELS GREAT, BUT THAT FITS PERFECTLY WASH AFTER WASH, DOESN’T LOSE ITS SHAPE OR LIFE, AND IS A SIMPLE THROWBACK TO YOUR FAVORITE DENIM OF DECADES PAST. BOOTS, ALL FRYE: JAMES CHELSEA, CHRIS PULL-ON, GREYSON PULL-UP BELTS: PHANTASMAGORIA (MADE IN BOULDER), ORCIANI
HERNO
HERNO DOWN JACKET OFFICINE GENERALE COTTON SHIRT PHIL PETTER WOOL SWEATER MASON’S COTTON CAMO TROUSER
PHIL PETTER
PHIL PETTER MERINO WAFFLE KNIT CARDIGAN XACUS BRUSHED COTTON FLANNEL SHIRT ISAIA WOOL TIE MASON’S SHADOW PLAID COTTON TROUSER
BOGLIOLI
COTTON PRINT SHIRT SWEATSHIRT-DETAIL CREW SWEATER SOFT CONSTRUCTED WOOL/CASHMERE JACKET
SIMON MILLER
SIMON MILLER PURE WOOL OVER SHIRT TASC ORGANIC COTTON/BAMBOO TEE
RAG & BONE
MILITARY-DETAIL RIBBED WOOL SWEATER COTTON FLANNEL SHIRT WITH RIBBON PLACKET SLIM-STRAIGHT JEAN
ETRO
ETRO SHEARLING JACKET WITH CONTRAST WOOL SLEEVE OFFICINE GENERALE CRISP POPLIN SHIRT PHIL PETTER EXPLODED PLAID ALPACA/MERINO SWEATER
LUCIANO BARBERA LUCIANO BARBERA HERRINGBONE TWEED JACKET ETON COTTON SHIRT, LUCIANO BARBERA SILK KNIT TIE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA GRAY FLANNEL TROUSER
MONCLER
DOWN AND WOOL SWEATER JACKET COTTON TRACK PANT
ISAIA
ISAIA WOOL/CASHMERE JACKET AND PURE COTTON SHIRT G’INGLESÉ POCKET SQUARE
FAHERTY
FAHERTY VINTAGE SHAWL CABLE SWEATER SIMON MILLER 5-POCKET SELVEDGE JEAN
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
MANHATTAN SUIT IN TROFEO WOOL/CASHMERE COTTON SHIRT AND SILK NECKTIE CARROT & GIBBS SILK POCKET SQUARE
footwear BALLY “HENDRIS” LAMBSKIN HIGH-TOP, RUBBER SOLE
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO “LORIANO” NUBUCK BIT LOAFER, RUBBER SOLE
MAGNANNI “ROBERTO” ANTIQUED CALFSKIN SNEAKER, EXTRA-LIGHT RUBBER SOLE
MAGNANNI “CUERO” LACE-UP BROGUE IN BURNISHED MID-BROWN, LEATHER SOLE
The sole is the truth of who we are. ∞ WEAR YOUR TRUTH ∞
MAGNANNI “PUEBLO BLACK” PERFORATED LEATHER SNEAKER, RUBBER ATHLETIC SOLE
GRAVATI SLIP-ON LOAFER IN SNUFF SUEDE, RUBBER SOLE
BALLY “HENDRIS” LAMBSKIN SNEAKER IN HAVANA BROWN, RUBBER SOLE
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO “LIVINGSTONE” TONAL BIT LOAFER, LEATHER/RUBBER SOLE
Bundle
THIS CLEVELAND WINTER, WE’RE MAD FOR PLAID.
VERONICA BEARD MOHAIR PLAID CAR COAT, HESTRA “MARY ANN” LAMBSKIN GLOVES IN CAMEL RAG & BONE CASHMERE RAGLAN COAT WITH WINDOWPANE LINING, HESTRA “MEGAN” HAIRSHEEP LEATHER GLOVES WITH CASHMERE LINING L’AGENCE WOOL PLAID COAT WITH LEATHER ACCENTS, HESTRA “ELLA” HAIRSHEEP LEATHER MITTS IN DINDRA GRAY
UP
profile
PETER MILLAR HAS FOUND SUCCESS BY OFFERING A FULL RANGE OF QUALITY MENSWEAR OPTIONS. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON attending a cocktail party. The truth is, what we really want is for our customer to wear at least one piece of Peter Millar every day.” While that sounds like a tall order, there are plenty of men who do just that. “People really like wearing our clothes; that’s what we hear from our stores,” says Mahoney. “And it’s fine if that’s just a shirt, or if it’s a suit. Seeing someone in Peter Millar is validation for everything we do.” Clearly, the company works incredibly hard to keep its customers interested. “We visit mills all around the world, we use factories from Europe and the Far East who work quickly, and we keep on top of fresh ideas so that we can always have exciting new products for our specialty store cus-
HEAD TO TOE It all started with a cashmere sweater and a lawn bowling ball. Such are the origins of Peter Millar, which began 15 years ago producing the former and taking its name from the latter. Since then, it has grown into one of the most successful men’s apparel brands, offering up a wide range of tailored clothing, casual sportswear, and luxury and performance golf attire. “The breadth of the brand today is one of our success secrets,” says Scott Mahoney, chairman and CEO. “We believe that a man can be dressed head to toe our in clothes for the entire day, whether they’re in business, playing golf, or
tomers,” he says. That doesn’t mean, however, that the company is obsessed by what’s “hot.” “We don’t chase trends,” says president Scott Ruerup. “Being based in Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina, we’re not jaded and don’t let ourselves be guided by the whims of one group of people. We know we have lots of different types of consumers, and our job is to serve them.” Indeed, Peter Millar takes great pride in doing whatever it takes to keep its clients happy. “There’s an incredible culture in our company about customer service,” says Ruerup. “We can do 24-to-48-hour turnaround on special orders. We can ship one pair of pants if we have to. We appreciate every sale. We take nothing for granted.” Moreover, as Ruerup points out, they have continued to supply product to the same upscale specialty stores and golf clubs year after year, often creating lifelong partnerships. “That’s one of our biggest messages, that our distribution does not change,” he says. “We’re not like other brands, and we don’t want to be.”
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BY ANDREW MITCHELL-NAMDAR
OUR PHILOSOPHY ON WHY A MULTI-BRAND STORE LEADS TO A BETTER WARDROBE. Multiple designers. An edited
designers in our network, our
assortment of clothing cus-
multi-brand store offers an
tomized to the lifestyles and
opportunity to dress all in
tastes of our customers and
one brand or mix many dif-
the climate of our location.
ferent designers to create a
Associates that know you
truly signature look. Like your very own closet,
and how to put it all togeth-
our selling floors and online
er. One-stop shopping!
access to additional product
We believe the best way to build a well thought-out
we offer give you a chance
wardrobe is with the guid-
to mix edgy with traditional,
ance and expertise of a store
high with low or any combi-
with multiple brands. With a
nation in between for a look
selection of hundreds of
that’s all your own.
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ask Can I wear BROWN SHOES with black, navy or gray suits? Yes! We love various shades of brown and tan with dark suits: it’s perfectly appropriate, and very Italian!
IMAGE BY DAVID ARKY
FALL 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
My girlfriend tells me I’m in a “fashion rut,” that my wardrobe is both boring and dated. (I wear mostly khakis and nice button down shirts.) How do I update my look? Personal style is about knowing yourself, your comfort zone and the image you want to project. Here are a few easy suggestions: 1) Throw on a soft sportcoat or cardigan: it adds instant “attitude,” requires no special fashion savvy and gives you pockets to keep stuff. If you dare, try a printed silk square in the pocket of the sportcoat. (No need to fuss with it: our sellers will show you the most simple folds.) 2) Instead of your basic khakis,
30
try five-pocket pants in luxury fabrics with stretch. These are comfortable, fashionable and the fit is amazing. 3) Invest in a great leather belt. 4) Consider a custom shirt. They’re not much more expensive than regular shirts, but they’re a lot sexier. 5) Call us to make an appointment for a closet update; we’ll send over one of our personal shoppers. There’s no pressure to buy, just great ideas to upgrade and update your wardrobe for a fashionable fall/winter ’16.
I have a friend who buys custom suits from a Chinese maker who periodically shows at local hotels. Can this be a reliable source for good clothing? Probably not. Anyone with a tape measure and a few swatches can call himself a custom clothier; the critical issues are the accuracy of the measurements, the quality of the suit (fabric, interlinings, construction) and what recourse you have if you’re not satisfied. The advantages of buying custom clothing from an independent menswear store are many: a vast selection of made-to-measure options from the finest brands; expert in-house tailors for accurate adjustments; and guaranteed top quality. For what’s the point of having a suit that fits if the fabric is inferior, or if the interlinings are glued rather than sewn? (And try tracking them down in Hong Kong when your “custom” suit comes back from the dry cleaner with ripples…) As always: caveat emptor.
FALL 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HER Dress codes for large corporations, law firms and banks are going more casual. I’m not sure where to start when it comes to building a workappropriate wardrobe for these changing times. Business casual, smart casual, upper casual, casual chic—when did dressing for the workday become so confusing and murky? As Millennials begin to outnumber Boomers in the workforce, some companies are afraid of older employees appearing out of touch. The trick is to instill confidence in co-workers and clients without looking too fancy; being relatable is key. The good news: reworking your existing wardrobe to fit these new parameters is easier than you might think. One of the easiest ways to make this transition is to let us show you how to separate pieces that you’ve always worn together, as well as mix different designer lines for a more relaxed look. You can still use your suiting pieces by breaking them up into separates. Put a white tee on under your jacket and add a colored trouser, then throw on a long tasseled necklace instead of your g0-to pearls. Just purchasing a few new pieces will allow you to remix your clothing in a completely different way. While at first it can be intimidating, this change in dress code is actually a good thing. You no longer need separate wardrobes for work and weekend, and you can get more versatility from the pieces you purchase. It just makes sense for the way people live today.
How can I use accessories to personalize my outfit without appearing overdone? Not looking too studied is an art in itself, but luckily it’s an art you can learn. You’re right to be wary of over-accessorizing, so if you’re one of those people who doesn’t know where to stop, take one item off before you leave the house. In terms of jewelry, either your necklace or your earrings should stand out while the other remains simple. When you do a bold jewelry look, choose a simpler handbag or scarf, and vice versa. Items within your outfit shouldn’t be competing for attention. When shopping for accessories, ask yourself if you can use the piece for work and on the weekends, and make sure it works with at least a few outfits already in your closet. Adding the finishing touches to your look should make you feel happy, so buy what you love!
What’s one of the hottest items in fall fashion? Beautiful blouses are everywhere! This season it’s all about soft, flowy silk and chiffon rather than stiff, buttoned-up tops. The “cold shoulder” trend that exploded this summer (blouses cut straight across the chest, leaving the shoulders exposed) will continue; other hot styles include high-low hems, v-necks with detachable ties, bell sleeves and embellishments. Wear them loose and flowy with leggings, or tucked in at the front with a great pair of jeans. Come into the store to see our beautiful selection in person, from brands like L’Agence, Equipment and Veronica Beard.
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“When did DRESSING FOR THE WORKDAY become so confusing and murky?” “While it can be intimidating, a change in dress code is actually a good thing. You no longer need separate wardrobes for work and weekend.”
designers
THE GIVING SEASON OUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS OPEN THEIR HEARTS (AND WALLETS) TO AN ARRAY OF CHARITABLE CAUSES.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
“My vision first and foremost has always been to create a company based on human dignity. Eight years ago, my wife and I created the Brunello and Federica Cucinelli Foundation to nourish the humanist aspirations born in
ARNOLD SILVERSTONE, SAMUELSOHN
Solomeo. Through art and academics we have put emphasis on creating a work environment
“Recently established in memory of our executive chairman, The
full of life and inspiration.
Lawrence Pollack Foundation will be the main philanthropic endeavor
“I felt in order to create a
for Luxury Men’s Apparel Group and its companies, which include
beautiful product, my employees
Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman Tailored Clothing. The primary
needed to be working in a beau-
focus will be on children in need—both those with special needs as
tiful place, where their creativity
well as those with financial needs.
could flourish. Solomeo is the
“Just last year, with Lawrence as the key
heart of where we work and
catalyst, we contributed a large gift to
where product is created. The
Make-A-Wish Foundation and it filled
environment is tranquil and
Lawrence with joy. Since his pass-
serene. It is important to me that
ing in April, we’ve raised funds
our employees work in a place
towards ambucycles in Israel.
rich with history, beauty and
The ambucycle program pro-
humanity. The Foundation aims to have a direct influence on
vides initial response in emer-
human values, understood as being the relationship between peo-
gencies until first respon-
ple and various activities in society.
ders arrive.
“The Foundation’s first project was the Forum of the Arts, which
“The Lawrence Pollack
began with the creation of a theatre. The theatre allows art, culture
Foundation and asso-
and spirituality to come together in a place that encourages
ciated events are cur-
absolute freedom of thought and religion and continues toward the
rently in develop-
development of human knowledge. We also created the academy,
ment. Once there is
which is a library home to ancient and modern texts. Our most
more specific infor-
recent development, “A Project for Beauty,” is dedicated to reviv-
mation, we will share
ing the land of Umbria surrounding Solomeo and creating parks
through our company
dedicated to youth, agriculture and beauty. The Foundation allows
websites. We hope you will
us to work for a higher purpose: a personal well-being in order to
join us in making a difference
enhance the beauty of the world.
in children’s lives, here in
“No act of kindness is too small if it will improve the life and
North America and abroad,
growth of people.”
on an ongoing basis.”
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SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON “Médecins Sans Frontières (Doctors Without Borders) is something that I have supported since I was 19. I read about their work in a Swedish newspaper and that they were almost out of funds, and I was horrified. So, I donate 500
ADAM DERRICK, TO BOOT NEW YORK
SEK (approximately $55 USD) every month,
“Among the causes I support, several LGBTQ charities are among my near-
and have been doing
est and dearest. In particular I have come to appreciate and support the
so for the past 14 years.
work of the attorneys at Lambda Legal. They’ve taken on the legal cases that
“Forum readers can
have won rulings supporting gay marriage; workplace and housing non-dis-
easily help out: start by visiting doctorswithoutborders.org
crimination; rights for LGBTQ kids; and securing rights for transgender
and get involved in this fantastic charity. I think emergency
men and women. This is a time of positive change in America for these
aid to people affected by armed conflicts, epidemics, health
issues, and these rights must be fought for and won in the courts to become
care exclusion and natural or manmade disasters should
legal precedent.
stir everyone to help. Every little bit of support—even if it’s
“My husband and I became aware and got involved with Lambda Legal
just $5 a month—is appreciated because together we make
through Andrew Mitchell (of Mitchell Stores, part of the Forum Apparel
a big difference.”
Group), who has been a tireless advocate for the organization and many other charities. Every year we, and To Boot New York, help Andrew and the Mitchell family sponsor an event called Connecticut Cares, which attracts a great, energy-filled crowd from all walks of life, united in their desire for a more free, more fair America for all, including LGBTQ people.”
BOB CORLISS, ROBERT TALBOTT “The Robert and Audrey Talbott Foundation works with local charities in the Monterey, California area, but for a more global perspective, I’ve always been passionate about the St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, and ALSAC, their fundraising arm. Those with the smallest voice and the least ability to pay—sick children—are the most noted and cared for at St. Jude. They don’t discriminate at all, and the organization has a global reach. “They started an amazing program called “Thanks And Giving” that, during the holidays, focuses attention on raising money to fight childhood cancer and other life-threatening diseases. Earlier in my career they partnered with the retail community, and I’ve worked with them when I can ever since. We are looking forward to expanding Robert Talbott’s relationship with St. Jude very soon. “I would encourage Forum readers to support this worthy cause. Cancer research and treatment is expensive, so any time you can, send a donation and support the businesses that support St. Jude during the holidays. It will take $1 billion to operate St. Jude this year and most of those funds must be raised through individual contributions. Visit stjude.org to contribute and learn more about ways to help them in the fight to end childhood cancer.”
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profile
A CHAT WITH MARIO STEFANO MARAN, EVP OF PANTALONI TORINO USA. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN t’s been said PT01 makes the world’s best pants; what substantiates this claim? It’s largely about our unique heritage, our tailoring and our technology. Our ongoing research, which is a part of our brand DNA, inspires us to keep innovating. We are famous for breaking the rules and creating unique styles. We offer customers a collection of trousers that reflects the finest Italian tailoring and craftsmanship, as well as special details, amazing fabric options and (most importantly) a perfect fit.
The World’s
BEST PANTS
Please share a little about your history. In 1969 Pierangelo Fassino started manufacturing apparel, a major step for the Fassino family, which had been in the textiles business in Torino for three generations. When Pierangelo’s son Edoardo joined the company in the 1990s, the business went decidedly upscale. I was brought in in 2006 to direct the U.S. business, which currently represents 60 percent of global sales. We now have four flagship showrooms: Milan, Tokyo, Munich and NYC.
Tell us about the fall ’16 collection. It combines the historic DNA of American denim with Italian style and design. There are music influences and several different fits. Among the most directional is a carrot fit, which has some fullness on top narrowing to a slimmer leg. But we offer numerous fit options, from classic to contemporary, in styles from formal and elegant to casual and sporty.
What’s next for PT01? The recent listing on the Milan Stock Exchange represents a milestone for our company, allowing us to grow. Current goals include expanding our women’s collection, strengthening our presence in international markets, and investing in new product segments.
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Like iconic structures, well-designed clothing beckons to be “inhabited.” This fall, form, function & fabric converge for a season of unforgettable style.
of
ARCHITECTURE
STYLE
PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR | MAKEUP: GREGG HUBBARD WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT STILL-LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY: BRIAN KLUTCH PRODUCT STYLING: ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO
MENSWEAR
RULES Back in the day, gentlemen seeking sartorial perfection had strict rules to follow— so many, in fact, that books were written to help them avoid embarrassing faux pas. Thankfully, the rules have relaxed, and these days well-dressed guys can rely on their intuition, their personal style and some sound suggestions from their favorite store associates. But as they say, you have to know the rules before you can break them. Here, our suggestions for upping your fashion quotient this fall. STYLING BY JOSEPH DEACETIS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID ARKY
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THE BUZZ ON
BUTTONS ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Sometimes, always, never: this rule tells you when to button the top, middle and bottom buttons on a threebutton suit. On two-button jackets, it’s always for the top and never for the bottom (except for sitting, when all buttons should be undone). Today’s bestselling suit is a two-button model, since its elongated V-neckline flatters almost any body type,
2
The consensus is that wider suit lapels flatter big guys, while thinner men can get away with narrow lapels. The notch lapel, shown at right, is a go-to option since it’s forgiving to most body types. Peak lapels, shown at left, add an element of power and strength. They’re trending on both singlebreasted and double-breasted models, while shawl collars are still reserved for tuxes and dinner jackets.
3
ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL
LAPEL LOGIC
SOCK IT TO ME
Traditional menswear rules hold that socks should coordinate with your trouser, not your shoes, while contemporary sensibilities allow for a colored sock that complements something else in your outfit. Work your sock into the color scheme established by your shirt, sweater, or pocket square for a coordinated feel that leaves no detail overlooked.
NECKWEAR NOTES
ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL
ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL
A tie worn at the proper length helps to balance the proportion between your legs and torso. Squarebottom ties (common on knit styles) should end at the top of your belt buckle, while ties with pointed bottoms should hit around midbuckle.
Millennials are reshaping the rules of menswear for all age groups. Take a cue from the kids: don’t be afraid to mix textures and patterns, pair sportswear (even sneakers!) with tailored pieces, or break up your suits into separates.
MILLENNIAL MASH-UP
6
quality
Hallmarks of
TOP
TAILORING ROLL-PADDING
provides spring and shape to the lapels..
HAND-SEWN ARMHOLES
create softness in the shoulder for comfort and a more natural shape.
FULLY BASTED CANVAS CHEST PIECE is labor-intensive but adds shape, fit and longevity to the garment.
HAND STITCHING
on all edges, flaps and collars provides a superior overall finish.
REAL HORSETAIL CANVAS is for added durability in the chest piece.
GENEROUS SEAM ALLOWANCES
BLIND STITCHING
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IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN
create ease of tailoring should you gain (or lose) weight.
in the jacket vent and hem lining provides better lining fit and easier alterations.
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the FASHION forum OH KEI!
I
f Canali’s Kei jacket has taken the fashion world by storm, it’s no surprise. As cozy and light as a knit garment, impeccably sharp, and so comfortable it can be worn year-round, this softly structured jacket is a masterpiece of Italian tailoring that can be appreciated (and worn) by men from every walk of life. And that’s exactly what Giorgio Canali had planned from the start: “When we created the Kei jacket, we didn’t have a specific customer in mind. We wanted something that would be timeless and appeal to many different types of men. The Kei strikes the perfect balance between comfort and style and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. It’s this level of versatility that makes it such a hit season after season.” Trust us: no closet should be without one!
PERFECTION PERSONIFIED
Wisdom of many sorts is dispensed in A.C. Phillips’ wonderful how-to guide, The Pocket Square: 22 Essential Folds. Each chapter (with such unforgettable titles as “The Guido Puff” or “Diamonds are Forever”) illustrates how to create one pocket square look perfect for any suit or sportcoat. Better still, each section is preceded by an aptly chosen quote from a style icon, ranging from playwright Oscar Wilde to actors Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart to designers Hardy Amies, Tom Ford and Luciano Barbera. Best of all, there’s also a page with eight must-know “Etiquette” rules, including our favorite: “A gentleman should carry one square for show and another to blow.” Now this is what we call essential reading.
If there was any lingering question of the brilliance, innovation and craftsmanship of the late couturier Yves Saint Laurent, the new museum exhibition Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style (on view at the Seattle Art Museum from October 11 to January 16 before traveling to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts on May 7) should put any doubts to rest. This multifaceted retrospective drawn from the collection of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent will shine a bright light on the designer’s genius. On view will be 100 of his greatest creations that span nearly 50 years— some never before seen in public—along with photographs, drawings and films that give insight into his particular process. Says curator Florence Muller: “The changes he progressively introduced into the traditional representation of the feminine and masculine bodies and the codes of seduction stand at the origin of the profound changes of contemporary ways of dress.” Truer words were never spoken.
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THE FASHION FORUM WRITTEN BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
Square Deal
SPRINGS AHEAD
J
ohnny Cash wasn’t always the man in black. Don’t believe us? Just head to the Hard Rock Hotel Palm Springs, which not only has Cash’s signed green corduroy jacket on display, but such other fabulous fashions as Sammy Davis Jr.’s 1974 custom suit, a one-of-akind vinyl outfit worn by Cher, and Lady Gaga’s shiny silicon, silver wire and crystal dress. And through December 31, you can truly feel like a rock star by taking advantage of the Hard Rock’s “Amplified” package (available at all 23 of its hotels around the globe), which includes not just a personalized tour of the hotel’s memorabilia collection, but also a pre-reserved Fender guitar complete with floor amp and headphones, a special collectible pin and a limited-edition hat. One visit here and any blues you have (Folsom Prison or otherwise) will be a long-forgotten memory.
travel
A BEYOND-EXCLUSIVE ALL-INCLUSIVE, GRAND VELAS RIVIERA NAYARIT AMAZES AND DELIGHTS IN ENDLESS WAYS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Luxury WITH SOUL
should have known this would be no ordinary holiday when I received a questionnaire from the resort a few days prior to my trip, an offer to “personalize my wellness experience.” If I would like my suite scented throughout my stay, would I prefer myrrh, lavender, cedar or tangerine? From the following selection of organic soaps, please select oats-bran-honey, agave, lavender or grapefruit-salt. Would I like to try a pillow and mattress with magnetic technology? Do I want my morning juice to be detox, antioxidant or energizing? Do I prefer my private fitness class in the gym or on my terrace overlooking the ocean? When would I like to schedule my Serenity Massage (on my terrace) and my hydrothermal ritual (in the 16,5000-sq.-ft. spa)? Would I prefer the resort’s award-winning restaurant menus, the spa cuisine menu, or a personalized menu created by the chef? Before I share my experience at the amazing Grand Velas resort (a AAA Five Diamond, all-inclusive Leading Hotel of the World on the Pacific near Puerto Vallarta, Mexico), let me preface by not-
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ing that my husband and I are not “wellness” people. He is a perennially stressed-out CPA who has been trying to lose about 50 pounds for the past five years and enjoys being negative and grumpy. I live on coffee, wine and pasta and have not entered a gym in ages. A New Yorker by birth and disposition, I thrive on crowds and chaos: the prospect of a peaceful, soothing, sustaining respite intrigued but also terrified me. I needn’t have worried. Everything about Grand Velas—from the rooms (267 oceanview suites, some with private plunge pools) to the luxury amenities (an award-winning spa with 20 treatment suites and 30-plus spa treatments, many inspired by the native traditions of Mexico; fitness center; 24/7 in-suite service; water sports; tennis; baby concierge; Kids Club; teen lounge) to the personalized service (exceptional but not gratuitous) to the incredible restaurants (three of which have received AAA Four Diamond awards)—is pure perfection. Their wellness package includes a personal concierge, Serenity Massage (heaven!), personal training session, two-level oceanview suite with private hot tub on the rooftop level, in-suite training equipment (ours served as a perfect valet to hold wet swimwear), spa cui-
sine, yoga, Pilates, Zumba and much more. But whether your desires lean toward wellness, decadence or laziness, the resort meets them all in style, in an ambiance that’s welcoming and steeped in natural beauty. The flowering landscaped gardens, the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Madres, the legendary sunsets and, of course, the long stretch of pristine beach lining azure waters, all serve to comfort body and soul. We alternated floating in the warm gentle waves of the Pacific with dips in the magnificent three-tiered infinity pool, each section heated to a different degree. (Our favorite was the oceanfront tier with swim-up bar and superfriendly bartenders concocting delicious combinations of rum, vodka, pineapple, nutmeg and all sorts of intoxicating ingredients.) Grand Velas has won numerous awards from Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, TripAdvisor, U.S. News & World Report and Forbes, which named it one of the Top Ten Coolest All-Inclusives. I can now confirm that it’s beyond cool: a blissful escape where one can’t help but relax, renew, resolve and thoroughly appreciate life’s blessings. Or as my husband observes, “If you enjoy being miserable, don’t stay here!”
VELAS VARIETALS
IF YOU LOVE GRAND VELAS, CHECK OUT THESE TWO OTHER NEARBY VELAS RESORTS. Casa Velas is a luxury boutique hotel and fabulous ocean club (just minutes from the beach) for adults only, nestled on the greens of Marina Vallarta’s 18-hole golf course (golf fees are included in the all-inclusive package). Just five minutes from the airport and 15 minutes from the boardwalk, shops and art galleries of Puerto Vallarta, this upscale resort features 80 suites, many with private pools and hot tubs. Amenities include Spa Casa Velas (specializing in couples treatments) and a unique “handbag bar” where guests can borrow designer bags for the evening. Emiliano is their wonderful AAA Four Diamond restaurant; guests also enjoy dining privileges at Grand Velas. Velas Vallarta is a fabulous family all-inclusive located on 10 acres of oceanfront in Puerto Vallarta. Situated on the emerald waters of Banderas Bay, it offers 345 suites in three eight-story buildings, seaside spa cabins, a transformative spa, fitness center, multiple restaurants, nightly theme dinners, and an inviting lounge with live music. Eco-conscious at its core, the resort uses solar panels and protects/releases marine turtles. A recently renovated Kids Club features supervised activities for kids under 13 so their parents can hit the golf course, spa or any one of numerous excursions, including various adventure activities in the Sierra Madre mountains.
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at your service
All Ways & Always
THE PEOPLE OF KILGORE TROUT ARE HERE TO HELP.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and eases your shopping experience. We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.
ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.
BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.
HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office. Give us a shout, and we’re there.
PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand-delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.
CLOSET CLEANING In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.
CUSTOMER LOUNGE In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water, and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen. We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.
TROUT CLUB Earn points with every qualifying purchase and receive this magazine by mail each season: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent (and even more during bonus point days or events). Twice each year, we will email a summary of your available Trout Club rewards. You’ll earn points with every purchase, and a complimentary subscription to this magazine, mailed to your home each season.
GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout Gift Card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination and arrive in a gift box, ready to give. Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.
CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customer. Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime and we’ll donate them to a local charity providing clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.
CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options and over 50 retailers to satiate your every need. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor. Need to know more? Call us at 216.831.0488.
WELCOME HOME Authentic Western Reserve charm meets Contemporary urban living at Walden. Nestled in Aurora’s most desirable neighborhood, this unique full-service condominium residence introduces a new way of living.
330 562 5508 yourwalden.com
KILGORE TROUT FORUM FW 2016/17
