Cruis'n the Coast

Cruis’n the Coast

A travel essay by Kim Bridges

2016 Š K. W. Bridges For more information, visit www.kimbridges.com

2

Cruis’n the Coast September 2016

M

y trips start in Hawaii. That’s where I live. This trip takes me to the mainland. More specifically, to the West Coast.

It’s a complicated trip as there are some unusual things that I’ve got to do. The highlight of the twelve days on the mainland is the drive up the Pacific Coast. I’m taking my car from San Diego to near Eugene, Oregon.

The days leading up to my departure are filled with the questions that most people have about travel. Mostly, “what do I take?”

Planning is important. I work hard to figure out just what I need to carry. Taking minimal gear is important on this trip.

I no longer have my mainland storage for clothes and other useful travel items. For the most part, all that remains in storage on the mainland is my Smart car. And that is one of the reasons for this trip. I must move the car from its Southern California parking spot to a location near Eugene, Oregon.

The other purpose of the trip is to visit MJ. I promised her that I’d make monthly trips to make sure that she is doing well. I’ve been happy with her new living arrangement. She is much safer now and has three good meals each day. There are fun activities for her and, I hope, she is making some new friends.

These two activities, plus a short stay with Oregon friends, dictate what I’ll carry on this trip. Mostly, I’ll stick with my “wear one, carry one” strategy that depends on the use of merino wool clothes.

3

With no rain in the forecast I can skip bringing my usual set of rain gear. Add a bit of bathroom necessities to the clothes and the basic travel kit is complete.

Technology is the other half of the travel gear. My goal with equipment is the same as with clothes; to be as light as possible.

The other consideration is that I’ll be adding a hand-carry box to the last leg of the return trip. This box will transport a well-packed Moe-Bridges glass lampshade. This is our family’s last vestige of Grandpa Bridges’ once-thriving company. For me, it is a critical family heirloom. Airline regulations allow just two carry-on items.

My backpack is one and the lampshade box is the other. That means that I’m constrained with the technology that I can carry (read: not too much camera gear).

The plan for the driving part of the trip is simple. I will travel, over a period of about three days, along the coast of California and Oregon. I want to dip inland only when there is no highway hugging the ocean cliffs and beaches. This gives me an opportunity to remember many past adventures. And, if I’m lucky, a chance to get some pictures of birds (particularly pelicans).

I’ve been carrying light camera gear on recent trips. This time will be different. The Canon 5D Mark III comes out of semi-retirement.

I pick two lenses; the Canon EF 100-400 mm (for birds) and the Canon EF 14 mm (for landscapes). Add the necessary batteries, cables, memory cards and a few other things. I’m also carrying two tablets: the new Google Pixel C tablet and the ageing Samsung Tab 8.2 tablet. The Samsung goes in the car as there is a good hard-mount already installed. (I’ll leave this tablet in the car, too.) The Pixel C is useful to view photos for quality control. It can also run the camera if the occasion arises.

I’m skipping on taking a laptop as I don’t anticipate an opportunity to use it and I do not want to carry the additional weight.

4

My goal had been to carry everything (clothes, camera, tablets) in my backpack, but there just isn’t room. At the last minute, I grab the Think Tank 2 Lens camera bag. It holds the lenses and the camera if I take the lens off the camera. This means that on the outbound trip I’m carrying two items (backpack and camera bag).

I’ll have to do some consolidation to keep to the two carry-on items limit for the return trip.

Everything gets assembled early before my trips. I don’t like last minute “surprises.” I also depend on the careful use of checklists.

This trip is no different than the others. I have three checklists.

One is for activities. I call this the GOOT list (Getting Out Of Town). The other two checklists are for things to take and a schedule.

My checklists get honed as they are rebuilt for each trip. The goal is to make sure that you take everything that is needed and that you don’t take things that you won’t need. There is a real temptation to take items for redundancy. But each item adds weight and bulk. The more I travel, the more that I’m convinced that I’m better off reducing redundancy. Contingency items, as in “I might need it,” fit into the same category. The solution is simple: take less “stuff,” and take more money. You can buy things that you need, if you need them.

Minimized luggage is a hard discipline to follow. I’m learning that older camera gear isn’t always necessary to get the pictures that I want. That’s hard as I like to use my DSLR camera and lenses.

But on this trip, I feel that I’m OK carrying my Canon gear. It provides the tool that I need to get pelican photos.

Reflection: This is a solo trip; I’d much prefer to be doing it with Nancy. I know that it won’t be easy as there are a lot of transitions marked by the trip’s events. I’m travel-weary, too. The recent trips have been frequent and long – several trips have lasted over a 5

month. On the positive side, there are several key tasks that will be complete once this trip is done. That simplifies life.

6

Tuesday

D

eparture from the apartment is about 6 PM on a Tuesday evening. My two bags are heavy. I wonder about the camera decision, but it is too late to revisit my strategy.

Into the car and off to the airport.

We’ve been doing this trip so often that the airport procedure is routine. I slip through the PreCheck security line and am soon into the Delta Sky Club at HNL. A glass of wine, some nibbles and then a wait of an hour and a half or so. Now it is time to head to the plane.

I go to the gate and board the plane. Before long I’m installed in Economy Comfort in a window seat. It is time to relax, enjoy watching a video or two, and to try to get some sleep.

Reflection: Having a well-practiced travel routine makes trips much easier. That doesn’t mean that I enjoy red-eye flights.

Coach-seating isn’t nearly as comfortable as first-class and, in any case, the few hours in the air limits the amount of sleep.

My travel miles are adding up. This gets me closer to Delta’s Diamond level in their Medallion system. This means I might get more upgrades in the future.

7

Wednesday

T

he flight is smooth. I struggle in the seat as I try to position myself to sleep. Nothing works. I get only a few minutes of sleep. I am awake as we approach the West Coast. I welcome the lights of the cities mark the mainland boundary. I’m happier being awake than trying to sleep.

The flight arrives too early (it’s before 5 AM). The plane delays its landing by taking a long loop across Los Angeles. Finally, we touch down at LAX and taxi to Terminal 5.

I invoke the standard arrival procedure: grab bags and get off the plane. Head to the LAX Sky Club. Then settle in for the long wait until the mid-morning flight to San Diego.

It is finally time for the short flight from LAX to SAN. The Delta Connection flights often leave from Terminal 6. That’s true today. I exercise by walking through the tunnel connecting the terminals.

Most people take the escalator from the tunnel up to the boarding level; I prefer to walk up the stairs. This is just about my stairclimbing limit and I’m always breathing hard by the time I reach the top. But it is good to get the exercise, especially as I’ve been doing a lot of sitting.

I am bumped to first class on the LAX-SAN leg. As usual for these red-eye trips, I use the short flight time to get a nap.

Grab bags again and head out of the terminal. Woops, I’ve missed a turn while navigating the terminal and I’m needing to walk more than necessary as I backtrack toward the bus stop.

This is a concern as I have a tight train connection at the Santa Fe station in downtown San Diego. My thought is that I’m not sure if I will have time to wait for a bus or whether it is better to take a 8

taxi. As I walk briskly to the nearest bus stop, it looks like the 922 bus is approaching. Right; it is the bus that I need. We both arrive at the bus stop at the same time. I board, relieved that I’ll be able to get to the train on time (and to save some money).

Once at the Santa Fe station, I get my Coaster ticket and then head to the AMTRAK boarding line. It is a short wait before boarding my train car. The train soon leaves for the north-bound trip.

This part of the trip is a little bitter-sweet. This is one of the last trips that I expect to make on this train route. In the future, I will rent a car at SAN as I will no longer have my own car waiting at my destination. I watch familiar landmarks pass as the train works its way toward Encinitas. This area has had quite a bit of rain recently and the vegetation looks uncommonly green. There are many people on the beaches and surfers are enjoying the small waves.

We usually go to the Poinsettia Station, but on this trip, I get off one stop earlier in Encinitas. There is a bus that makes the trip from the train station to near my destination in Lake San Marcos. I have plenty of time between my train’s arrival and the bus departure according to the schedule. My question is whether my train ticket is valid on the bus. Some signs say the train ticket works on the bus. One bus driver says that it doesn’t. The problem is that there isn’t any obvious place to buy a bus ticket.

(I’ve forgotten that you can pay money on the bus!) I try to use my train ticket when my bus arrives; the driver gives me a lecture but lets me use my train ticket. At least I’m on the bus and headed to my destination. I’m also reminded that my thinking is a bit fuzzy.

Before long I’m back on the street near where I park my car. It is just a short walk and then I can finally put my bags in the car and 9

give my shoulders some rest. The car and I are team members for the next week.

It is lunch time and I drive to a nearby Rubio’s for a fish taco. This is just what I need and I’m glad that I made this choice. I’ve got some energy again.

10

Next stop: Visit MJ and spend some time catching up. I’ve brought along an illustrated story of the trip to Sydney, Australia that Nancy and I took a few weeks ago. This gives us something to talk about. MJ likes to hear about these adventures.

There are some small items that need my attention after I’ve left MJ. I attend to them.

Tiredness creeps in by mid-afternoon. I’ve not gotten much sleep over the past two days. It is time to head to the Carlsbad CostCo for some light supplies. I buy a couple of bottles of wine so that I can have some in the evenings. My plan is to get take-out food and carry it back to the motel for my dinners. The wine will be a good complement.

Then I’m off to check-in to the Carlsbad Motel 6. All I need for a place to stay is something simple and well-located. This chain is a dependable choice that we’ve used before.

Tonight’s dinner comes from the nearby Taco Bell. Not fancy. Just easy. A glass of wine. Then it is time to sleep. Finally.

Reflection: I have taken the trip from Honolulu to San Marcos many times. It is often uncomfortable since it frequently involves a red-eye flight. Familiarity makes it a straight-forward experience, if not an easy trip.

I am aware that this is my last time to use our well-honed logistics. Future trips to this area will involve a rental car instead of a train. I’m staying in hotels instead of my room at the Chateau.

There are a lot of other changes coming.

It is good to start another visit with MJ. That makes me happy. I’m looking forward to the time that we’ll have together.

I also recognize that I’ve got some tasks that need to be done.

That’s part of the stress.

11

Thursday

T

he front license plate on the car is hanging at an angle. It has lost one of the two screws that hold it in place. This needs fixing, right away. So, I’m off to get some coffee and a warm breakfast sandwich. Then I’ll head to Home Depot for a replacement screw.

Getting the license plate reattached turns out to be an hour-long job. I bought several sets of screws and attached the license plate to the top and bottom of the holder. That was more work than I expected. I learned a bit about screw sizes, too.

Time for a morning visit with MJ. We have a good time as I read to her from the book about our Sydney trip. I leave as her noontime meal approaches with the promise that I’ll return in the afternoon.

This afternoon’s visit is brief. MJ is tired and needs a nap. That leaves me with some open time so that I can do some exploring.

The coastline along Carlsbad and Oceanside is an interesting area. I have not explored it very much. I can remember only one recent walk on the Oceanside Pier, for example. Today, I can go to Oceanside and see what is happening in this coastal community. It is a nice drive along the waterfront from Palomar Airport Road to Oceanside. I find a street-side parking space near the Oceanside Pier. Out of the car, grab my camera, sling the camera bag over my shoulder and head to the pier.

My spirits are lifted.

12

Walking on the pier gets you high above the beach. You can look down and see the people on the sand and in the ocean. I think: Nice sand but cold water. You need to wear a wetsuit if you are going to surf.

The Oceanside Pier extends far out into the Pacific Ocean. This is a visitor attraction, of course. You also see a lot of local people on the pier.

13

The surf is up and there are a lot of people riding the waves. One boy stands out as he is good at getting a ride on this surf break.

He is worth watching. I take a few photos. A few other people are taking pictures of the surfers and the activities on the pier.

Quite a few people are out walking today. A few park themselves on the rail, cast with their fishing pole, and then wait for a bite.

Some of this fishing is successful. I watch several small fish hoisted from the water far below. I wonder if the people will eat these fish or are the fish just sport trophies.

14

15

16

A sign on the pier indicates that there is often a pelican sitting near one of the tourist shacks. He is not here now. Too bad.

Instead, it is time to scan the sky and see if I can spot a pelican or two on the wing. I look for a while then walk further out on the pier and look some more. No pelicans.

I decide that it is a good idea to practice my camera technique on some of the sea gulls. Most of these birds are sitting, but a few are flying. It makes sense that there are a lot of these birds here.

Gulls are scavengers. The people fishing often provide the gulls with an easy meal.

17

18

19

Finally, a few pelicans appear. They are far in the distance, well beyond the reach of my camera lens. You can tell that they are looking for fish as they fly back and forth over a small area. The pelicans stay far away. I return to taking photos of the sea gulls.

Then the pelicans come closer. Click, click, click. But they are still far away. I can see them diving for fish. Maybe, if I’m lucky, one will fly by close enough for me to get a shot.

There goes a pelican. It is a bit closer now. Click, click, click. It is just at the outer reach of my lens.

I watch the pelican fly north. Soon, there are no pelicans in sight.

20

It is time to walk back to the car as I only put enough money in the meter for an hour’s worth of parking.

I see an egret sitting on the Pier’s railing. Click. Click. That was not the kind of bird that I expected here.

The balk on the pier gives me more chances to look at the surfers and see the housing facing the beach.

It is good to get out and walk. And I enjoy getting my hands on the Canon camera again. It is big and heavy. That is the price of having the reach that the 100-400 mm lens gives me. It is worth carrying today.

21

I drive back to the motel and then walk to get some dinner (Taco Bell, again). There is time in the evening to review the afternoon’s photos. Some look OK. But, in general, they are not what I am after. I wanted to take some interesting bird photos but most of the shots are California surfers and sea gulls.

Reflection: I expected to spend more time with MJ today. I am disappointed that we had little time together. I also understand that there are both good and bad times to visit.

I can remember only a few times in recent years when I have had the freedom to spend an hour or two along the coast. Usually, when I am in this area, family time comes first. I got to walk in a typical Southern California beach city today. This short trip to the coast allowed me to revisit some of what it is like to enjoy the kinds of beaches in this area.

22

Friday

B

reakfast is coffee and food at the San Marcos Starbucks.

This is becoming a regular stop. Then I’m off to see MJ.

MJ isn’t feeling too well this morning. She had a bad night, I guess. I decide to put off the visit until the afternoon. This will give her time to rest.

Christina and I will have lunch today at the Chateau. There are dining credits aplenty so we choose to eat the food in the dining room, perhaps for the last time for me. After lunch I must stow a few things in the car, give some things away and dump a bit in the trash. This is the final cleanout of the stored items.

Then I head back to Silvergate to meet with MJ. This is a good visit. We continue with the story about the Sydney trip. I leave when Silvergate’s music event starts. These events are popular activities and residents fill up the room. It is good for MJ to have these interesting, and often interactive, diversions.

This afternoon there is time for me to head along the coast to the south of Carlsbad. I drive down the coast for a few miles until I get to a parking area at San Elijo, just south of Encinitas. This is a state beach and you need to pay for parking. I suspect that many people skip paying when the lot has only a few cars. Who will check? None the less, I feed my money into the machine.

The parking area is on a cliff well above the beach. There is easy beach access as a wooden staircase goes down to the shoreline.

I wait at the top by the parking lot for quite a while. I’ve got my camera in hand and I’m again on the lookout for pelicans. This is a good vantage point. You can see a dozen or so surfers in the 23

waves and there are a few sea gulls patrolling the cliff and beach below. There are a few people on the beach, too.

After a while I walk down the stairs to the beach. I’d spotted some shore birds and it is time to see if I can get a close-up photo or two. Still no pelicans, so the shore birds are my substitute for bird pictures. And there are plenty of sea gulls, so I’ll get a few more shots of them, too.

24

25

26

27

The sun is getting low in the sky. This makes for backlighting as I try to take bird (and surfer) photos. It is not a good time to be taking the sorts of photos that I want. It is time to climb back up the stairs, put my camera in the car, and drive back north to my motel. I’m done for the day.

Reflection: Part of the emotional tug of the day is “unplugging� from the Chateau. MJ has lived there for more years than she has lived anywhere else. While she has moved and none of her things remain, I still have a few things there. Removing the last of my belongings today closes a big chapter in my family history.

Seeing MJ beginning to fit into the Silvergate routine gives me some comfort. I work to keep my focus on positive things.

28

29

Saturday

C

heck out of the motel. Get the gear into the car. Make sure to get everything settled and check that the electronics are ready. Then off to get coffee and breakfast, as usual, at Starbucks.

Today is the first of the driving days. My schedule says that I have time for at least an hour’s visit with MJ. I stretch our time together as long as I can. But, I do need to leave. My driving plan shows that I’ve got a long drive ahead. I say goodbye to MJ and promise her that I’ll be back as soon as I can.

This is a particularly difficult parting. I’m leaving and I know that Christina will be gone, too. She has a trip to the East coast. This is still a transition period for MJ. I want to be there to help, but I know that I can’t stay.

I’ve also just closed my presence at the Chateau. In a week or two the apartment will be on the market. Nancy and I have come to depend on this apartment as a place to stay. It has also been a site for keeping a lot of our travel things, including our car. That convenience has just ended. We will continue to visit but in the future, are dependent on transient facilities.

It is time to focus on the drive. I head out on Palomar Airport Road toward the west and then up I-5. Once on the Interstate, I watch for the exit that leads to Hwy 1. I’m determined to take coastal roads.

I did some driving on the coast on Thursday and Friday. That was on Highway 101 between Del Mar and Oceanside. This is a fun section of highway. The names of the businesses remind you that 30

it is “101.” One of our favorite names is “Fish 101.” It happens to be an excellent place to have an informal seafood dinner.

You need to go on the Interstate north of Oceanside. The large Marine Corps training area, Camp Pendleton, blocks a long stretch of the coast. I want to avoid freeways, but I-5 is my only alternative until I reach San Juan Capistrano. Then I can take the exit to Hwy 1. I’ll stick to Hwy 1 as much as I can. This means that I’m on city streets, complete with traffic lights and lots of cars.

Dana Point is the next city. This is a famous surfing town. The highway goes up and down as you round the “point” and finally rejoin the coast.

The only section of “undeveloped” land has been Camp Pendleton. North of that, the coastline is fully developed with housing. Most of these houses are splendid residences. I spot a few places where old-style beach houses remain. Those are the houses that I remember from long ago.

It is nearly a straight, uncrowded drive north until you get to Laguna Beach.

My family used to make regular visits to Laguna Beach. This was an extended family affair as MJ’s parents were always along with us. We had to go by the “greeter” who stood downtown waving to all the passing cars. Later we would stop at the Pottery Shack and walk the aisles of California-style ceramic ware. The greeter is long gone; a statue created in his honor maintains his presence.

I look for the Pottery Shack on the inland side of the highway as I go up the Laguna Beach section of Hwy 1. The old business is gone; in its place is the “Old Pottery Place.” From my quick glance, much of the funky atmosphere has disappeared.

31

There is a highway that links the inland areas to the Laguna Beach coast. This road intersects Hwy 1 in the center of town.

The traffic always crawls slowly in this area. There are traffic lights and the narrow highway bends in sharp turns. I must be patient; there is no alternative here.

There is a park filled with people enjoying the day on the ocean side of the road. Just beyond are the cliffs that have paths that we used to walk. I particularly remember my dad taking photos here as the banks of flowers are particularly colorful. It remains the same today.

Moving north, I recall the time that I was walking in this area and met a man who was on the sidewalk. For some reason, he stopped to tell me to never put my tongue on a sea anemone. He had tried it and been “stung.” I was a novice marine biologist at the time. I took his warning to heart. Keep your tongue in your mouth.

I also did a bit of SCUBA diving along this coast. There was an illfated expedition when we rented an underwater movie-camera rig. It was so heavy that we could barely carry it down the Laguna Beach cliffs. Combine that with the need to carry our SCUBA gear and we had little time in the water. I don’t think that we got any movie footage. That was an expensive experiment.

I’m fascinated by the stretch of highway just north of Laguna Beach. The road is broad and it makes smooth, wide curves. This has long been an area of gated communities. I wonder at the kinds of homes nestled along the hillsides with the commanding views of the ocean. There were a few mobile-home parks along here many years ago. These are long gone, replaced by expensive homes.

32

We often talk about the next section of the highway. Preservation of the few remaining wild sections of the coast is important.

Housing takes over the undeveloped lands, year after year. Can’t there be some wild lands kept as a buffer between these coastal communities? On this trip, I note that just a sliver of land remains today as a park area (Crystal Cove State Park). High-end housing covers most of the landscape.

Corona del Mar is next. It looks like a town frozen in time.

MacArthur Boulevard soon meets Hwy 1. It is just up this road that I spent a few years while I earned my PhD at UC/Irvine. Just beyond, off to the right, is the entrance to Newport Center. It is a high-end shopping center that I’ve visited a few times.

Luxury car dealers punctuate the businesses along this stretch of the road. Fast cars; lots of money. I cross the bridge that connects Balboa Bay to the back-bay areas. There are lots of yachts parked at docks along the shore as well as quite a few in motion out in the bay. This is an active place for the yachting set.

This area includes the Balboa Bay Club. This is another personal landmark. Marsh Fisher, a good friend, lived there for a time. This section of the coast displays wealth.

I make slow progress as I head north. I must watch the traffic as this is a busy highway today. Next up is the bridge that connects Costa Mesa to Newport Beach and the Balboa Peninsula. I’ve driven on this bridge in many eras. First, we crossed the bridge when we had family outings to the beach. Newport was almost always the destination if we wanted to play in the sand and waves. Later, this bridge was the entrance to my favorite springbreak destination. After that, it was part of a daily commute during my first year at UC/Irvine. Those were the days when I rented a house on W. Balboa Blvd.

33

A bit further along is the intersection where I used to visit one of SoCal’s famous dive shops. SCUBA diving was a new thing in those days. This was a “must visit” hangout if you wanted to mingle with some of the sport’s pioneers. This landmark is long gone.

We used to drive the highway north, especially during those spring-break getaways. We were California kids who wanted to be out on the open highway. There wasn’t much development along the stretch of road heading to Huntington Beach at that time. Now there are lots of buildings, especially as you approach Huntington Beach. Huge resort hotels are here now and more are under construction. The whole character has changed.

It is a hot day, today, late in the season. Huntington Beach Park is full of people. I don’t see a single empty parking space in this miles-long parking lot.

I return my focus to the drive ahead. I need to pass through Sunset Beach, Seal Beach and then head across Long Beach.

My next goal is to stop at Smart Madness. I want to donate a few things that I no longer need and to give them at least a temporary “good bye.”

Seal Beach has some “undeveloped” land. This is an illusion. The area houses an ammunitions supply center for the Navy. A Navy ship parked at the pier confirms this.

My navigation, so far today, has been from memory. It is easy to stay on Hwy 1 in the areas that I’ve covered. But now I need to do the side trip to Smart Madness in Signal Hill. It is time to stop and punch in the address so that Google Maps will get me there.

Rolling again, I pass around the traffic circle and take the second exit. Hwy 1 is the third exit. If I had gone there I would pass the former location of Uncle John’s Pancake House. My roommate 34

worked as a chef in this chain restaurant. We lived in nearby Belmont Shore for nine months.

It isn’t long until I get to Smart Madness. I do my business and thank them for their help. I don’t want to think about the implications of not having a trusted place to get my car serviced.

Then it is a short drive to CostCo to refuel the car.

Heading back to Hwy 1 is easy; just drive west toward the ocean.

The city streets skirt the base of Signal Hill. This area is famous for the early development of oil in California. I soon connect with Hwy 1. People call Hwy 1 the “Pacific Coast Highway” here. This designation persists along much of its length. The signs usually say “PCH.” I make the turn onto PCH and continue north through what appears to be an Hispanic section of Long Beach.

Considerable industrial activity surrounds communities like Wilmington.

I’m not too far from Terminal Island. I worked there as a Seasonal Aide for California Fish and Game soon after graduating from High School. This was my first time being on my own. It was a good job and it gave me some insight into the life of a professional biologist. I thought, for many years, that I’d be a fisheries biologist, partly because of this experience.

PCH leaves the coast and stays far inland as it rounds Rolling Hills and the Palos Verdes Peninsula. I’m reminded of the time that I visited an estate in the plush Rolling Hills. A boy that I had met in Mexico City lived there as a “house boy.”

Redondo Beach is next and PCH is back near the ocean. There are memories here, too. I came here several times to visit a girl I had met during my freshman year in college. She was pretty and smart. Ahhh, shades of my youth.

35

The beach communities are contiguous here. You can’t tell where one ends and the next one begins, except for the signs.

Manhattan Beach and then El Segundo. Here you move inland and pass under one of the LAX runways. Soon, the highway makes a left turn. There is an In-an-Out at this intersection. Think: World-class hamburgers at an iconic California drive-thru restaurant. We’ve been there a few times. It is one of the prime plane watching sites as you are very close to the planes as they touch down.

PCH continues toward Santa Monica. There is a tricky intersection in downtown Santa Monica. You need to pay close attention. Some old memories of the route kick in and help me navigate.

The Rand Corporation, a famous think tank, is near here. I quickly process thoughts of a visit there when I was working on my PhD research in nearby UCLA. I’m still concentrating on my driving.

Missing a turn here will be costly.

Soon, I’m back to sea level and on the winding section of highway that skirts the Santa Monica mountains. This is where the rich and famous have beach houses or enjoy the beach at one of the private beach clubs. You can see the wealth in the number of expensive cars. Some are on the highway with me. Others are parked at the exclusive locations.

There are a lot of people out driving today. Fortunately for me, most cars are heading back toward Santa Monica. There is little traffic in my direction. I spot the entrance to the Getty Villa. We were there not long ago. It is a nice place to visit.

I push on. Mile after mile, expensive beach houses cover the coastal areas.

36

A recent accident has traffic stalled on the opposite side of the road. I’m lucky to not be in that snarl. It will take them a long time to clean up this mess. I move on as my side of the road is OK and I get to Malibu without delay.

The housing thins. I am now far from urban centers and I have thoughts about how a commute on this highway would be a daily nightmare. The road is too narrow and there are too many cars.

There is a sign indicating Paradise Cove. I did a bit of fishing with a commercial fishing boat here when I worked for Cal Fish and Game. I remember seeing “Gorgeous George,” the then-famous wrestler. He was lying on the beach here getting the tan that was part of his image.

At this point I’m getting concerned with the time and the remaining drive ahead. My destination is about 125 miles away and it will take about 2.5 hours more to complete the day’s drive. I’m getting weary but I need to press on. Following Hwy 1 has kept me in heavy traffic almost the entire distance. That’s harder driving, for me, than taking the freeway. I know that things will soon improve.

I just need to pass Point Magu, then turn inland to Oxnard. At that point I meet up with Highway 101. I’ll then be on a freeway for the rest of today’s drive.

My route takes me through Ventura. After that, I drive along the coast. Often, the highway is right on the edge of the ocean. This is where there are lots of coastal oil wells. You can see the pumps, looking like dinosaurs, nodding their heads up and down.

It amazes me that they are still extracting oil after so many years.

You can also see the man-made off-shore islands that have oil production facilities. This industry has been a source of contention for many years.

37

It is a relief to leave the dense coastal communities of the south.

There are a few scattered villages and oil facilities on this section of the highway. They are the only signs of development.

Carpenteria is one of these coastal villages that I pass. I stayed here for a few days after High School. I was a guest of a friend who was studying at Brooks Institute of Photography in nearby Santa Barbara. The difficulty of his assignments and the rigor of the Brook’s program impressed me. I remember many details of this short visit. It was a significant introduction to the world of professional training. It also gave me some insight into the potential of photography.

I pass through Santa Barbara and remember when Wavefront Technologies invited me to visit. This company was at the epicenter of computer animation at the time. Many major movies, as well as TV commercials and promos, used their software. I made a life-long friend, Bud Enright, during this visit.

It isn’t long before I reach Isla Vista. I am running low on fuel and I search my map for a CostCo. I find one but this CostCo doesn’t have a gas station (a surprise!). I settle for a nearby gas station and pay a bit more than I want.

Isla Vista is near UC/Santa Barbara. That’s where I got my Scripps’ SCUBA Diving Certificate. This place has a lot of memories of the two weeks that I participated in the grueling training course. It was during the dives that I met Dr. Philip Adams, another student in the class. Phil was a biology teacher at UCSB. He opened my eyes to biology and I credit Phil and this experience as the start of my career as a biologist.

I resume the drive north with a full load of fuel on board. It is an easy drive now. Not much traffic along this straight highway. I pass by some of the beach access roads where we went diving 38

during the Scripps course. I can picture the underwater world here as I spot the kelp beds anchored just offshore. The kelp appears to be abundant. That’s a good sign.

The highway turns inland at Gaviota. There is an intersection that leads from Highway 101 to Hwy 1. I stay on 101 as it is a more direct path to my day’s endpoint in Santa Maria. It is also necessary to stay on 101 because I want to stop in the upcoming town of Buelton.

MJ remembers Buelton as a highway stop and she has talked about it for many years. Even now, when I say “Buelton,” she says “Andersen’s Split Pea Soup.” We must have eaten here on a family trip years ago and she likely has visited it several times since. The restaurant is a tourist attraction in a stretch of highway that once had few places to get a meal. I’m sure that there were lots of signs enticing you to stop.

It is dinner time and, well, an opportunity to revisit this place so fixed in MJ’s memory.

Split pea soup is plain; cooked peas don’t have much texture.

(You can have as much as you want with your order; I was happy with just one big bowl.) The stop did what I intended. The soup fills me up and it gives me a small thing to talk about next time I visit MJ.

39

40

41

Santa Maria is not far away. I’ve got tonight’s Motel 6 location plugged into my phone’s GPS map. I head back to the highway as it is time to get the daily drive finished. I’m tired and I need a break.

Reflection: This was a rough and tumble day from an emotional perspective. Leaving San Marcos was difficult but the stress was soon balanced, in part, by the start of the drive north. The choice of route defies the logic of Google maps. I’m taking a pokey, slow excursion along memory lane. This is not a swift drive on a memory-poor Interstate. It is a good alternative. The slow pace, particularly on city streets, allows past events to come forth.

42

If anything, the distance is too ambitious for a one day drive. The highway is busy, particularly where the route passes near popular recreational areas. The weather is too perfect: blue sky, warm air, lots of sun, and fun-sized wave.

The rigors of the drive damp the emotional stress by the end of the day. The hard part of the drive, I believe, is behind me.

43

Sunday

T

he original travel plan was conceived well before the start of this trip. This plan has me spending the first “road” night at Morro Bay. This will let me get out early so that I can get some bird photos. My return from Alaska and the Arctic Circle trip coincided with a mass migration of pelicans. I was not prepared to photograph these birds on that trip. Now, I feel better about my chances to get some good shots.

The problem is that Morro Bay’s motels are booked. The closest available rooms are in Santa Maria. That’s about an hour’s drive south of Morro Bay. Plan B: Get up early and drive to Morro Bay before dawn.

I am out of the door about 5:00 AM and soon arrive at the nearby Starbucks. They are open early and I am the only customer until I’m ready to leave. I’m so used to Starbucks being busy places. It feels strange to be there by myself.

Now that I’m full of food and coffee, I’m ready for the drive. The freeway passes Pismo Beach and heads on to San Luis Obispo.

The Madonna Inn sits to the left of the freeway. That’s a memorable hotel with the most unusual rooms. We have this hotel on the short list of the most interesting places that we have stayed.

Getting onto Hwy 1 involves making a small loop through the city streets of SLO. Once on the highway, you progress through farm country and by the nearby Cal Poly campus. Both places bring up memories of past events and people. I once worked for Bill Furtick. He was Dean of the College of Tropical Agriculture and

44

Human Resources. We worked together for several memorable years. He moved to a farm near here when he retired.

I visited the Cal Poly campus, years ago. It was a youthful adventure. The kind that can get you in trouble. I was careful; there were no problems.

Really Right Stuff is one of my favorite camera-equipment manufacturers. Their factory is just outside the city. They have long been my camera-support system supplier. I don’t want to visit them on his trip. My past visits were expensive as I like their equipment. It is too easy to entice me to add to my photography gear.

I’m soon on the outskirts of Morro Bay and it is still before sunrise.

The city streets are empty and it doesn’t take long to drive down to the waterfront area. The motels, as expected, are showing their “No Vacancy” signs. I encountered a different version of this sign on my first visit here years ago. It said “Standing Room Only.” It is my favorite motel sign.

A few people are already out by the edge of the water as I pull into the parking area near Morro Rock. There is a pod of a dozen or more sea otters just offshore. I can’t see them well as only their heads and tails are above water and it is still quite dark. Daybreak is still a few minutes away. None the less, these animals are active and it is interesting to watch them twist and turn as they swim around. Many of them are playing with each other. It is too dark for photographs.

A few sea gulls fly by. I search the skies for pelicans. Finally, I spot one or two. They are too far away for photos, even with my long telephoto lens. I settle for taking pictures of a nearby heron that is patiently standing on the shoreline rocks. I’ve seen a

45

similar bird here before. That one caught a fish before flying away. This one isn’t so lucky.

46

47

The sun slowly rises above the hills to the east. It is time to move on. I’ve got a lot of miles to cover today.

The drive along Hwy 1 between Morro Bay and Monterey is one of the top scenic highway routes in the nation. This is about a 125-mile two-lane road that hugs the coastal cliffs. The first section, as I head north, is a straight highway. That makes it an easy drive.

48

My first stop comes after about thirty miles. This is near San Simeon. The location is the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery. This is one of the places where these huge animals come ashore. Usually, the Elephant Seals are out at sea. There are many dozen animals here today. Some are asleep on the beach, a few of the males are confronting other males, and some animals are out in the ocean. This is a low point in the number of individuals at the rookery. Most of these are juveniles. There are often many, many more animals here.

49

50

I’ve seen this colony before. It is a nice stop and serves as a reminder of how we treated large sea mammals so bad in the past. Harvesting reduced this species to only about 50 individuals.

We killed them for oil. It is remarkable that protection efforts have allowed the species to recover.

You might be able to see Hearst Castle if you turn around and look back at the hills. This famous home of William Randolph Hearst sits on the ridge about five miles away. The castle is a popular tourist destination. I’ve never been there. This is not the day for a visit; I’ve got a lot more driving ahead of me.

51

I take one last look at the ocean before putting away my camera.

A pelican!

Click, click, click.

Maybe, just maybe, I got one or two good shots.

Then it is time to leave. I spot a few bikes in the parking lot. It must be fun riding this section of Hwy 1 on a motorcycle.

52

53

The highway begins the long stretch where you wind back and forth. Sometimes you are under a tall forest canopy. Other times there is a naked cliff on one side and a steep drop to the churning ocean below on the other side. Arching bridges span the river valleys. Periodic parking areas let you stop and enjoy the primal beauty of the area.

The developed coasts to the south are in contrast with this unspoiled landscape. The clear demarcation is south of Santa Barbara. There, urban/suburban development gives way to wild areas. I’m glad to be here. I enjoy the rugged, natural beauty of this wildland.

54

There is quite a bit of traffic on the highway. Most of the vehicles are coming from the north. I’m glad that I am on the side of the highway without congestion. Some of the south-bound travelers are not in cars. This is a day for bicycles. I see lots of riders as I get nearer the Monterey end of Hwy 1. They come in groups.

Each group of riders is color-coded by its distinctive clothes.

These are serious riders. Some groups are large with perhaps a hundred riders. Support vehicles often accompany these big groups. Other groups are small, perhaps a half-dozen people riding together. It is good to see these athletes getting exercise and enjoying the day.

55

This good weather has brought people to the beaches. Cars crowd every roadside stopping area. Many vehicles have surfboard racks. Lots of people are down on the sand and in the ocean.

This is a particularly warm day for this time of the year. The temperature might be as much as 20 F warmer than average.

This last vestige of summer won’t last. Lots of people are taking advantage of the unusual conditions.

I begin to see that cars are filling all the beach parking areas. The overflow parking spills out on the sides of the highway. There are places with dozens, sometimes hundreds, of cars parked together 56

along the road. This day might be seeing a record number of people at the beaches.

A big forest fire has closed the mountain parks near Big Sur. You see this notice on highway signs. Other signs warn of fire vehicles and road crews. There are quite a few big trucks parked along the highway. These are the kind of truck that transports earthmoving equipment. This is all evidence of the size of the fire. Finally, I pass by a fire-crew staging area. There are lots of tents and fire vehicles. I assume that the fire is over because the facilities are being removed. Local communities placed signs along the highway that thank the fire and emergency crews. It might have been hard to get through this road a few days ago. I’m lucky that I’m doing it today.

I search these beaches as I drive by to see if I can spot the location where I once made a deep dive. It happened early in my SCUBA experiences. I had brought my gear with me on a drive to San Francisco. I stopped by the Stanford Marine Lab on the return drive to Southern California. Does anyone need a dive partner? A grad student was going to make a dive and he invited me along. It was the deepest dive I was to make, about 120 feet down. We collected specimens from the shelves along an underwater canyon. When we got back to the Lab we found that we’d collected some rare critters. That was exciting.

There was a negative side to this experience. The dive drained my energy. After that, I had to tackle the drive to Morro Bay. It was my first time on this highway. I had no idea that it would be so difficult, especially as the late afternoon fogs began to roll in. It was a long, difficult day.

Today is different. I’ve got a lot of energy and the weather is perfect. This is a good drive. I am enjoying taking a scenic highway that twists and turns.

57

Now, as I head through Monterey, the road is wider with more lanes. It also becomes straighter as it turns into a freeway. I can go faster now as I drive through the flat farmlands that have rich brown soils. There are farms with strawberries, artichokes, Brussels sprouts, and a few other crops.

Someone told me to stop at Moss Landing. I’m forgetting why I should stop here. It is easy to pull off the main highway and head to this small community. I pass by a small harbor here and find a state park alongside the inlet. Nearby signs tell me to watch out for sea otters crossing the street. Now I remember; this is where you can observe sea otters. I don’t see any of these cute animals in the inlet. I did see a bunch of them earlier in the day at Morro Bay and I don’t feel any need to see more. I’m also feeling the pressure to keep driving north. It is time to move on.

I do a quick check and see that I’ve got over 150 miles of driving before I reach my destination at Bodega Bay. I’m already fatigued as today’s drive has not been easy.

Undeveloped lands return to the coastal landscape. There are farms, not housing developments, along the highway. I’m surprised to see so many farms on the flat crests of the coastal cliffs. I think that the salt spray should make these unfavorable areas for agriculture. But I must be wrong as these coastal sites look like productive fields.

Santa Cruz is the next big city. I’m low on fuel, both for me (read: hungry) and the car. There is a CostCo here. It takes me a while to find it, even though I’m now doing navigation with Google Maps on my cell phone. I am reminded how easy it is to make a wrong turn, especially when there is a lot of traffic and the roads are unfamiliar. I finally get to the CostCo but don’t see a gas station.

There is a sign at the store entrance that gives the current gas prices. That means that they’ve got a gas station here. I get 58

something to eat at the indoor food court before hunting down the gas station. This time I choose CostCo’s beef brisket sandwich.

Very filling! Then it is time to fuel up TwoRed. The gas station is hidden near the back of the store. There are no lines of cars waiting for fuel. What a surprise. I don’t think that I’ve ever seen a CostCo gas station without a line.

Back on Hwy 1. There is a challenge ahead. I need to go through San Francisco and cross the Golden Gate Bridge. I’m generally familiar with the route and highway conditions. Having a navigation system adds to my confidence. More and more detailed memories of these streets return as I get closer and closer to the city.

San Francisco State University passes by on the left. I’ve been there quite a few times, especially when I was part of the Exploring Systems Earth project. We were researching computer graphics and artificial intelligence in those days. It is fun to linger on those thoughts but the traffic is getting heavy and I need to refocus on my driving.

My route goes across Golden Gate Park and then winds through the Presidio. Anticipating lane changes is important here as a mistake can lead you off your route. I’d like have Nancy on board, of course. She is a master navigator. But today, I’m on my own.

Soon, the entrance to the Golden Gate bridge appears. Quick now; I must shift lanes. The traffic isn’t too bad so I’m safe. I’m now in the proper lane to cross the famous span that links San Francisco to Marin County.

There are a lot of people walking on the bridge. A lot of people.

There is a crowd on the walkway. The sign at the entrance parking area says that the lot is full. Another sign repeats this at the other end. This is a day to be out and about in San Francisco.

People are enjoying the unseasonable weather.

59

The driver can’t look around and enjoy the view during the crossing of the entrance to San Francisco Bay. Focus on driving is essential. Reaching the end of the bridge is a relief. The broad highway now heads through the tree-covered hills near Sausalito.

Soon, there is an exit that leads through the Mt. Tamalpais area toward Muir Beach.

I’m back on Hwy 1 and following a long line of cars along the narrow forest highway. We are all going slow as there is heavy traffic going both ways. My mental calculations tell me that things are not good. At this rate, it will be a long time before I get to the coast. Then I’ve still have a long drive up to Bodega Bay. Have I made a mistake trying to stay on Hwy 1?

I see, with great relief, that almost all cars are leaving Hwy 1 on a side road that leads to a forest wilderness area. Wow! I’m almost alone now and can get back up to the speed limit. I wind back and forth through the forest. There is less stress and I’m back enjoying the drive. Whew! Maybe the rest of the day won’t be too bad.

There are a few places to pull off the highway as I approach the coast. I stop at one of these for a short, but welcome, break. I can spot the ocean again as I look down from this rest stop. That’s a good sign.

The drive continues. Soon, I’m again passing many areas where people have stopped to enjoy the ocean. Traffic on the other side the street is getting heavy. It is mid-afternoon and a few people are starting their drive back to the city. This San Francisco-bound traffic gets worse and worse as I head north. Few people are driving north so my side of the highway is clear. I’d not want to be going the other direction now.

The highway is beautiful here. I can see why a lot of people are out for a drive on this warm, clear day.

60

Stinson Beach is a large sandy area. There are lots of people on the beach even at this late afternoon hour. Cars still fill all the parking areas. I have more thoughts of the traffic jam that these sun-seekers will soon encounter.

I’ve driven this stretch of highway before. Sometimes I’ve done it going north and other times going south. I see a lot of familiar sights and the names of places are easily remembered. Point Reyes and Tomales Bay bring back memories of past trips. I had time on those previous visits to explore some of these parklands.

But not today; I’ve got to focus on getting to my destination.

I am relieved when I reach the outskirts of Bodega Bay. My navigation system tells me where to turn. I arrive at the Bodega Harbor Inn after driving a couple of blocks on neighborhood streets. This is a highly-rated motel and I’m lucky to have gotten a reservation for a room with a view of the harbor. The manager is friendly and helpful. I’m glad to be here and off the highway.

The room is cozy in an old-fashioned way. That’s fine as it fits the character of the town.

Traveling light makes it easy to get settled. I can carry all my gear into the room in one load. And there isn’t much to do to arrange my stuff.

My next priority: Dinner. Nancy found me a good place to eat.

The motel manager confirms the location. It is just a short walk down the hill and then as short distance along the harbor’s edge. Down I go to the Gourmet Au Bay, a wine-bar and restaurant. This turns out to be an excellent choice. I enjoy a fine dinner.

61

I met a couple in the parking lot before heading to dinner. After I got to the restaurant these people came there, too. We have more of a chance to chat.

Meeting interesting people is one of the treats of travel. Perhaps we are staying at the restaurant too long as we appear to be the last people to leave. The walk back up the hill, by myself, finds me trying to navigate on a dark street. I’ve forgotten to bring my cell phone; it is my flashlight. I walk carefully in the dark. It is a big relief to get safely back to my room. Lesson learned. Always carry your phone.

Reflection: This has been a long day. I started well before sunrise and ended my drive near sunset. The highway’s twists and turns were challenging but satisfying. It meant that I had an active role in the drive. Freeway driving, in contrast, is a more passive experience. I’m glad that I chose the coastal route, even though it is a lot more work.

I’ve been fortunate to see some of America’s must beautiful countryside. I have enjoyed this, although I would have seen more had I been a passenger or stopped more often. But I have saturated my senses. Good enough. Note to self: This section of the trip will be better if broken into a two-day drive.

I’m beginning to feel distant from Southern California. I’m only a two-day drive away, but everything is so different. The most obvious difference is the rural nature of the countryside.

Population centers, such as Bodega Bay, are tiny and not crowded up alongside the next town.

I also think about the weather. I am fortunate to have such ideal weather. This drive would have been far different if it was on a cold and rainy day. This section of the coast is not known for its good weather.

62

Monday

T

he Bodega Harbor Inn offers a carbohydrate-heavy breakfast. I grab a few things and get some coffee. There are a few other people up and about. It’s good to sit outside at one of the tables while I enjoy the small breakfast and think about the day’s drive.

63

Today’s drive takes me up the coast and then inland through some big forests. After that, I head back seaward and go along the coast into Oregon. This will be a long drive; I’m covering more than 350 miles of road. Much of the driving will be on narrow highways that wind along the ocean cliffs. Time to get going.

Most of this section of Hwy 1 is new to me. I recall that I’ve driven some of it, but that was long ago and in the other direction.

What I’m encountering again is wild coastline. I’m impressed with the steep mountain cliffs that line the coast. There are many more offshore rocks than I expected to see. These are an interesting feature of this coastline. Waves crash on rocks that look like huge spikes emerging from the ocean. Some rocks have a white cap.

This indicates that the rock provides a roost for seabirds.

64

65

I’ve been seeing Pampas Grass growing along the mountains since leaving Morro Bay. This plant appears to be a serious invasive species.

I’m now far away from the traffic that I’ve seen over the last several days. The road is mine. This makes for an easier drive.

But this is still a demanding area in which to drive. I must pay close attention to the highway.

The route on this section of the coast passes through several small towns. This adds some variety to the drive. One of these cities is Point Arena. It has the distinction of being the closest mainland location (excluding Alaska) to Honolulu.

66

Some distinctive purple flowers are growing in bunches along the highway. Most of these flowers occur near houses or other buildings. I’m curious. It is convenient to pull into the Pirates Cove Restaurant parking lot. Now I can examine the flowers up close.

They are curious plants as they have no leaves; there are just stems sticking up with big pink flowers on the end. They are the Naked Lady Lily or Resurrection Lily, Lycoris squamigera. The plants have leaves in the spring. The vegetative parts die back before the flowers emerge.

I get my pictures and decide, since I’m here and a bit hungry, that I’ll get some food before leaving. This is a Mexican restaurant 67

(despite its name) and I get a take-out order of tacos. This is a full meal as it comes with rice and beans. It is too early in the day for a big lunch. Why not drive for a bit before eating? The food goes into the car as I also think that it will be more interesting to eat when I can stop at a place with a good view.

The highway is inland as it passes through Point Arena. I continue north and it isn’t long before I’m back on the coast. There is a parking area where I can stop and eat. Both the food and the view are a good choice.

68

After driving on a long stretch of highway boarding the coast, I turn inland. Shrubby vegetation has covered the coastal slopes.

Now, I’m seeing tall forests on the hillsides on both sides of this inland highway.

The road goes back and forth. Up and down. As before, this drive requires concentration.

Eventually, the narrow Hwy 1 ends. I’m a bit sad to leave this remarkable highway. My route continues north on a much different roadway. Welcome to the heavily-traveled Highway 101.

My next concern is for fuel. The gas gauge shows that I’m almost out. Check the map. Great! This highway junction has a small 69

town, Leggett, with a gas station. Whew! I’m not going to be picky about price. Get some gas and end the worry of running dry.

Then it is back to the road. Here, they call Highway 101 the “Redwood Highway.” I’ve joined the big-rig trucks and a lot of cars heading north. It is an easier drive as this is a four-lane road that cuts through the forests with broad turns. I can relax a bit.

I spot an exit marked with a “Avenue of the Giants” sign after about a half hour. That’s my cue to leave the main highway. Now I am following a narrow road through a few small towns.

Eventually, this road enters a forest of giant redwoods.

I’ve been through this area before. Several times. It is always a treat to drive through this towering forest. There isn’t time to stop and walk through the redwood trees on this trip. This is another reminder that I’ve been too ambitious with my daily drives.

I do have time to make one roadside stop to take photos. This is near the Founder’s Grove area of Humboldt Redwoods State Park. Nancy and I stopped at this park on a previous trip to the redwoods. We had time on that visit to hike in the forest. We even saw a large limb fall from one of the trees. That was a scary and rare event. Today, my stop is brief but long enough to let me think through what I saw on the earlier trip.

There is such a contrast between the bright, arid coast and this dark, humid forest. The coast has waves beating on the shoreline.

Here, everything is so quiet and peaceful. The earlier contrast was in population density and the associated urbanization. Now I’m feeling the extreme environmental contrast.

Unfortunately, there is little time to linger. I’m far from today’s destination.

70

71

72

The highway takes me through familiar towns such as Eureka and Arcata. I spot the exit to Trinidad and recall the time that Nancy and I stayed there. It was a great destination located right on the coast. We got to see a lot of the character of this part of the coast since we spent several nights there. Now I’m driving a bit inland.

The coastal highway is not practical if I’m going to get to Brookings on schedule.

I am still in Redwood country. The highway passes through several national and state parks that protect these magnificent trees.

There is time for a brief stop in Klamath. I remember this location as the northernmost point on a trip that Nancy and I made to the redwoods a few years ago. But now I’m going further north. From here, I’ll be on roads that are new to me.

The highway goes to Crescent City and then crosses into Oregon.

Brookings, today’s destination, is not far beyond the border. I think that I’m on schedule. I see a large group of elk while passing through Crescent City. They are all munching on the lawn of what looks like a public building. It is interesting that they are so close to the highway. This is an unexpected visual treat.

A bit more driving and I arrive at my motel, the Wild Rivers Motorlodge. Another long day on the highway. But what sights!

I thought that my room might have a view of a river. Nope. The river is a few blocks south. This is a pretty shabby motel. But it is enough for what I need. It is a safe and convenient location. I can leave the car parked and walk down the main highway a few blocks to a restaurant for dinner.

Nancy recommends the Billington Bars for dinner. When I see this restaurant from the outside, it looks more like a busy sports bar.

I’m not sure that I’ll be comfortable there. I just passed by the 73

neighboring Black Trumpet Bistro. I go back and look at the menu and then peek in the door. This place looks more to my taste.

Good choice; I have a great dinner. Later, Nancy tells me that I found the highest-rated restaurant in Brookings. Lucky.

Reflection: I could see quite a bit of the wild coastal areas of Northern California for the first time. I’m attracted to these environments. Today, the weather was clear. I’d like to come here when there is rain and fog, too.

The redwood forests are special. I’m glad that I had time to drive through some of the groves of trees. When I look at the map I see that there are many more areas with these trees that I was not able to visit. This is another place where you need to have days so you can linger. Don’t rush. Pause. Reflect. The ancient forests ask for a slow-paced experience.

Establishing a base of operations in Oregon may allow some slow-travel in the future.

We know that the entire Oregon coast has interesting places to visit. It will be fun, one of these days, to explore the small towns.

The weather was good today. What is this area like when the weather is wet, cold and windy? How resilient do you need to be to survive a winter in one of these isolated communities? These small, coastal places are so removed from urban America.

74

Tuesday

T

oday’s drive will be quite short. I should reach Will and Valerie’s place in about 200 miles. That is most welcome.

I’ve driven more miles in each of the last three days than I find comfortable, given the nature of the highway. It is easy to do long distances on Interstate Highways. That’s not as true on the narrow coastal and forest roads.

Today is a lazy start. My first stop is at the nearby Fred Meyer store. It has a Starbucks inside. I go to the store’s deli and get a few breakfast burritos. Then a cup of coffee. Fast and easy. Now it is time to get on the highway.

The route continues up the coast. Here, they call Highway 101 the “Oregon Coast Highway.”

Coos Bay is the next big town. I need to stop in Coos Bay as it looks like the last place to give TwoRed a good wash. The ocean “atmosphere” has left a heavy film (full of salt) on the car. A good wash is essential. Lots of quarters go in the slot and I give TwoRed a vigorous squirt with the high-pressure wand. A quick wipe down. Ah, nice and clean.

I keep moving north to Reedsport. Today’s route has been engaging. This area is well worth a return visit. Next time, the pace needs to be slower. I know that this is a constant theme.

There are a lot of places along this coast that look like great resorts. It will be fun to spend a few days on the coast. It seems practical when we have a nearby base of operations. That’s for the future. Not today. I’ve got to press on and finish the drive.

I reach the end of my drive on Hwy 1 or Highway 101. I must now turn inland at Reedsport. This is the Umpqua Highway and it goes 75

along the Umpqua River. I’ve driven this road once before. It impressed me then as it does again this time.

I remember stopping at an elk-viewing site on the previous trip. I pass by the location again but this time there are no elk visible.

Nancy gave me some navigation advice. I’m glad for this information. Google Maps decides that I need to wander a bit.

That is not necessary. I follow Nancy’s directions and the road, Territorial Highway, leads directly to my destination.

I arrive at Thousand Arbors Refuge. I have finished the drive.

Valerie is home and we’ve got a lot of time to catch up. Will has a long day at work today, so I’ll see him after dinner.

Most important, I get to relax.

Reflection: My previous drive through Oregon was during the trip to Alaska and the Arctic Circle. I drove to Reedsport and then north along the Oregon coast on the north-bound leg of that trip. I had concluded that this area was well worth visiting again.

Today, I had a chance to explore some of the same territory and to add the southern coast, too. This trip confirms that this is a beautiful area. We’ll come back here. Parking TwoRed here makes it practical.

I was also able to start reconnecting with Will and Valerie. That is an important goal of this trip.

76

Wednesday

W

ill has taken the day off. We have a chance to talk and walk the property. I can get a good sense of how his plans for the farm have changed to reflect the funding realities. It is still an exciting venture.

We spend much of the rest of the day building a wall inside the garage. The framing was already done. Our job is to put up the drywall. This is a new experience. It’s nice to do something manual like this; you can see your accomplishment at the end of the day.

77

Later in the day we head to Eugene. Will, Valerie and I are going to dinner at the house of a friend of Will and Valerie. We stop at the Eugene CostCo. I buy some bottles of wine. These are a few of the King Estate varieties, along with a Malbec from Argentina.

A fine dinner. Great company. Good talk.

Reflection: The short narrative about the day’s activities hides the fact that it was a busy day. The wall construction took a big block of time. Will knows the construction basics but there were a few times when we were installing the wall board by trial and error. It is satisfying to finish a project like this as you know that the result will be helpful. This project is also a reminder of how many tasks lie ahead. Will and Valerie have to do a lot of work to convert the property into the farm they envision.

There were five of us at dinner. The food was excellent. And it was good to sit around and talk with intelligent people. This does not happen often enough.

78

Thursday

W

ill has a full day of work today. Valerie and I decide to go to Eugene’s Cascades Raptor Center. This is where Karen Hall is working and she has given us a good preview of what we can see.

The focus of the Center is to rescue, rehabilitate and release raptors. Some of the rescued birds are not good candidates for release. A few of these birds remain at the Center and they contribute to the public viewing activities. The Center also has an active program of taking the birds to community groups. This helps inform the public about the birds and the activities of the Center.

79

80

81

82

Reflection: I have a passion for large birds. I support the type of conservation that I’ve seen today. Visiting the Raptor Center was a satisfying experience. There is a need for the services provided by the Center. Confrontations with people injures too many of these birds. People also need to learn about these birds. The Center helps in both areas. The Center could not provide these services without many volunteers. I’m glad that Karen, a good friend, is contributing her time and expertise to this effort.

I’ll come back to the Raptor Center on one of my next trips to Eugene.

83

Friday

T

he weather here was warm on the day before my visit. I’m told that the thermometer hit 95 F, well above the average temperature for this time of the year. This morning there is evidence that the more normal Fall temperatures are returning.

You can see the clouds hanging on the mountains in the early hours.

84

Yesterday was a day focused on caged birds. Today, we’ll try to see some of the big birds in the wild. Valerie and I head to one of Eugene’s large reservoirs. We can see a few egrets and maybe a heron or two. But they are too far away for photography. None the less, it is good being outside. And it is an opportunity to walk.

Finding a few “wild” apple trees is a treat, too.

There is still a lot of produce in the garden. How often do I get to pick ripe vegetables? Rarely! I don’t pass up a chance to pick some vine-ripe tomatoes.

85

Toward the end of the day, Valerie and I pick up Will at his pharmacy. We got to go inside and see how this mechanized operation works. Impressive.

We then go to dinner at a wine bar. Food comes from a food truck parked at the entrance. We taste a variety of locally-produced wines before selecting a bottle. We’re having a Cabernet Sauvignon with dinner. The food is Vietnamese. The food and wine make for a good combination. Another nice dinner.

Reflection: This was a particularly relaxing day. Getting outside in rural Oregon was a good experience. Spending time with Valerie was good, too.

I have had another chance to see an area with a low-population density. What a contrast between this and crowded Southern California.

Spending some time in a vegetable garden brought back memories from many years ago. I am struck by how a small garden can provide so much food. This causes me to reset my understanding of home gardens.

Dinner at the wine bar let me dip into some local, artisanal wines.

Some were good, others were not so good. The important point is that people are developing their creative skills. The wines will get better. The people will be more skillful. It is important to support their efforts.

86

Saturday

T

his is a travel day. First we will tuck TwoRed away. Will has made some space in the garage and I drive TwoRed into its new home. The car is still wet from the overnight dew so I don’t put on the cover. Will can do it later. It is with a bit of sadness that we close the garage door. I won’t see TwoRed again until late in December.

87

Off to breakfast at a vegetarian restaurant in downtown Eugene.

This is right next to the train station so it is handy for me. I like to know that I won’t be late for transportation (e.g., planes, trains).

An omelet and coffee start the day well.

Then it is time to bid Will and Valerie farewell. A short time later my train, the AMTRAK Cascades, arrives. I’ve got a Business Class reservation and when I get to my seat I am alone in the car.

I’m soon joined by one other person. Two people is a pretty light load. I’m surprised.

The train pulls out on time. I don’t even notice the motion as it is so slow and smooth. Rolling again.

I’m using the time to check email. I notice the passing landscape but enjoy the change from having to focus on the details. The train trip lasts over six hours so I’m able to relax.

There are a few stops along the route. Each time we stop, we pick up a few passengers. Sometimes, such as in Portland, we drop off a few, too. The seats in the car become more occupied as we go north. By the time we head out of Vancouver, passengers fill all the seats.

We reach the mid-trip point. I’m ready for some lunch. The car ahead has food so I go forward and stand in line awaiting service.

I ask for some clam chowder and a bottle of white wine when it is my turn. It is all a bit expensive but this is my only option. I take my small feast back to my seat and enjoy a simple meal.

Lots of people get off the train at the Tukwila stop. I discover that this is close to Sea-Tac; it is the airport connection. I’ll return to the airport in the morning. Tonight’s stay is in Seattle so I remain on the train with the few people who are going downtown.

88

I’m a little worried about the weather. The radar shows nearby rainfall. As I leave the station, I know that I’ve got about five blocks to walk. I’m glad to be traveling light at this point. The camera gear is in my pack and that makes it a bit heavier than before. I’m carrying a cloth bag with the box holding the lampshade. I have also folded the camera bag so it fits into the cloth bag. It is more complicated than I like. I just have to deal with it.

Seattle has hills and the walk to the Panama Hotel involves a bit of a climb. Walking is good, especially after sitting all day.

Finally, I reach the hotel entrance and find that you walk up several flights of stairs to get to the desk. There is nobody at the 89

desk but there is activity in the room next door. Someone else is checking in. I watch them so I’ll know what to do when it is my turn. This is not your standard hotel. I provide the necessary documents and am soon taken up one flight to my room. On the way, I’m shown the shower room and the toilet room. My room is across the hall. That makes it convenient. I am again reminded that this is an old hotel. The style of the accommodation is different than we usually find in hotels.

My room has a big bed and a few pieces of old furniture. There is a small sink in the corner and colorful pictures of Japanese ladies are on the walls. This hotel is in the Japanese section of Seattle.

The building is important as it had a role in the internment of the Japanese during WW II.

I soak in the history. It is fun being in a place that is so different from the norm. There is a good description of the hotel on the Web. I booked it knowing that it usual. Don’t not stay here if you are not willing to respect and accommodate the quirky features. If you like something different, it is a great place to stay.

90

Time for dinner. I’ve got to move fast as the weather is turning bad. I’m not prepared for rain on this trip. Dinner needs to be at a nearby restaurant.

I head downstairs, out the door and then walk down the street.

There are a few places nearby, but none of these restaurants looks quite right. I head south and then turn the corner. Just a few stores down is Kaname Izakaya, a bar/restaurant. It looks like a good choice except I can’t see any customers inside. But the rain is now heavy; I can hear it thumping on the awning and my head is getting wet. This restaurant will be good enough, I decide. Once inside, I see that the customers are in an adjacent room. There are quite a few people here.

I choose to sit at the bar. I find that more comfortable when I’m by myself. The bartender is interesting. Over the next hour or so, we chat a bit and I watch him interact with several regular customers who pop in for a quick drink. He knows everyone! I’m the only stranger.

Beer is the beverage for tonight. I end up with several kinds. Their usual on-tap choice, Sapporo, is not cold. I’m offered an alternative to make up for this deficiency. I eat some edamame (cold, boiled soybeans in the shell), teka maki (tuna roll), kushi katsu (deep fried pork/onion skewers) and an order of gyoza (pork pot stickers).

Time to return to the hotel and get some sleep. I don’t see a heater in the room. That’s OK as there is a big blanket on the bed.

I’ll likely need it later.

Loud noises outside wake me up. There is a march of a few hundred people turning the corner on the street downstairs. They are shouting “Black Lives Matter.” I approve of their cause and initiative. Then it is back to sleep.

91

Reflection: Today was my last full day on the mainland. I needed to say goodbye to good friends and pack away my good-friend, TwoRed the Smart car. I like train trips and my mood picked up as I got to spend much of the day heading to Seattle on the rails.

I knew some of what to expect at the Panama Hotel. The anticipation hit reality as soon as I reached the door leading into the hotel. Sometimes it is good to try things that are very different.

This was a good choice. Will I do it again? Maybe.

Dinner, too, took me a bit out of my usual comfort zone. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect when I entered the Japanese restaurant. In both cases, the hotel and restaurant, the experience was well worth the effort to do something new.

This day, like the others on this trip, would have been much better with Nancy as a traveling companion. I can do it alone. But I enjoy it much more as a team effort.

92

Sunday

I

get to head home today. I’m road weary and looking forward to being back in Hawaii. But first, I need to do a few things.

No shower this morning. I can’t quite bring myself to using the shared shower room. I know that it is private when you are taking a shower. But I can’t get my head around the arrangement. There is a ready alternative; sponge-wash myself at the small sink in the room. Done. Get dressed. Pack. I’m ready for some breakfast.

There is a free breakfast in the tea room located in the store next to the hotel. This is another historical room. There are a lot of old things here. While the focus is on tea (it is a “tea room,” after all), I choose coffee (it is Seattle, after all). I’m given my choice of a pastry and I ask for a large croissant. That’s enough for breakfast as I’m getting close to my scheduled departure from Seattle. I don’t want to be late getting to the airport.

I have a chance to look at the glass floor at the back of the tea room. The government sent many Japanese-Americans from Seattle to internment camps. This is where these US citizens stored their belongings. This collection of items remained hidden for many years. Most (all?) of the goods were never claimed.

After breakfast, I climb the stairs back to my room, grab my two bags and drop by the desk to check out. Then onto the street and make the short walk to the Seattle Sound Transit station. It is a block closer than the train station. I’m there on schedule. It is just a short wait until the light-rail train arrives.

The light rail uses Orca cards to pay for trips. I had one of the cards from a previous Seattle visit. That makes it simpler as I 93

don’t have to buy a ticket today. You use the card by tapping on and off at entry and exit machines. The trip to the airport costs $3.

Going from the light-rail station to SEA is now a familiar activity.

Seattle is becoming a regular airport stop for us. Once at the airport, it takes only a few minutes to get through security. Then I’m off to the airport train that goes to Terminal S. That is where you find the Delta Sky Club.

There are a lot of people in the Club. I find a seat and take time to relax as I wait for my flight. More coffee, too.

Delta will soon have another Sky Club at SEA. It is three weeks from completion so I won’t see it on this trip. This new Club promises to be one of the biggest in the system.

I’ve got to take the airport train again. My flight leaves from Terminal B and I’m in Terminal S. I arrive at my gate in time and there is just a short wait before boarding.

I again get a window seat in Economy Comfort. It is a pretty smooth trip back to Hawaii. More movies. I buy a chicken roll for lunch and enjoy this with a free bottle of white wine.

Finally, mid-afternoon, the plane touches down at HNL. I’m back.

Nancy’s waiting. We take the short walk to the car together and then make the drive home.

Reflection: The tea room at the hotel kept me grounded in the hotel’s history and its central role in the Japanese community at the start of World War II. There are a lot of reasons why we should not forget the internment of a segment of American society.

The air travel process is now routine. This familiarity brings a certain kind of comfort. You know what to do. You know when to 94

do it. You know where to do it. The result: relax and enjoy the experience. That is the story of today’s trip back to Hawaii.

I am glad to get home. This was a necessary trip. I wanted to spend time with MJ. I had to finish some important tasks.

This trip sets a lot of our expectations for the future. Travel to Southern California will not be the same as before. We have a new “base of operations” in Oregon.

These are big changes. I’m not sure, at this point, how these changes will impact us. I think we will be OK.

95