Esko J채ms채
Helsinki
s
Impression
Helsinki Impressions © Esko Jämsä, Väli-Suomi Yhtiöt Oy / Kirjakaari Jyväskylä 2010
Photographs and color separation Esko Jämsä Text Merja Hemmilä Graphic design Kati Lähdemäki, Kirjakaari Translation Aki Myyrä, Molehill Communications Print WS Bookwell Oy, Porvoo 2010 Publisher Kirjakaari ISBN 978-952-67343-3-0
Helsinki
Impressions
Historical Helsinki The lands of the Finns were northern backwoods without definite boundaries until Sweden took it under its rule in the 13th century. Helsinki was founded by the mouth of the Vantaanjoki River in 1550 by a decree of King Gustav I of Sweden. Helsinki remained a modest small town for quite a long time before beginning its slow but persistent growth into Finland’s largest city and centre of trade and administration In 1809 Finland was annexed to Russia. Helsinki was made the Capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland in 1812 by the Russian Emperor who wanted to sever Finland from any remaining ties to Sweden. When Finland gained independence in 1917, Helsinki acquired a new task as the capital of the new republic. Gradually Helsinki grew into a modern, international, and welcoming metropolis. Statues sculpted by Emil WikstrÜm guard the doors of the impressive Helsinki Central Railway Station, which was designed by architect Eliel Saarinen. 4
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Visitors to Helsinki are welcomed by the massive faรงade of the Finnish Parliament Building. As a monument of independence and democracy, it has been a part of the Finnish national landscape and identity since 1931. The stately building hosts a 200-member parliament, elected by the Finnish people. 6
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The sports arena built for the 1952 Helsinki Olympics has been acclaimed as the world’s most beautiful Olympic Stadium. The Olympics marked the beginning of a new era for Helsinki introduced Finns to a couple of now familiar international commodities: Coca-Cola and bubblegum! Immortalized by sculptor Wäinö Aaltonen, the legendary “Flying Finn”, Paavo Nurmi, keeps on running in front of the Olympic Stadium.
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The Sibelius Monument, designed by Eila Hiltunen and crafted out of steel, is one of Finland’s most famous abstract sculptures. It was made to honour Finland’s national composer, Jean Sibelius. Like Sibelius himself, the monument emanates mythical dynamism and primitive symbolism. Its 600 pipes weigh 24 tonnes and climb to a height of 10.5 metres. The monument stands in the Sibelius Park in Töölö.
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The Helsinki Cathedral is Finland’s most famous church and one of the most popular tourist attractions. Its white colour and neoclassical forms have become symbols, not only of Helsinki, but of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland as well.
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The majority of Finns belong to the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Only one percent of the population belong to the Greek Orthodox Church. Although Finland has freedom of religion, these two churches have a great significance in Finnish history and culture. They enjoy special legal status as national churches. The Temppeliaukio Church is one of Helsinki’s most extraordinary and popular architectural landmarks. 15
The main sanctuary of the Greek Orthodox congregation in Helsinki is the Uspenski Cathedral, the largest Orthodox church building in Northern and Western Europe. Its architecture is a harmonious blend of the Slavonic and Byzantine traditions. The Evangelical Lutheran St. John’s Church is the leading masterpiece of Finnish neogothic church architecture. It is also Finland’s largest stone church in terms of seating capacity. 16
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Shrieks of glee and laughter can be heard at the Linnanmäki amusement park. Finland’s most popular amusement park spins and churns merry-makers of all ages and sizes. The scents of cotton candy, popcorn, and waffles mingle in the air, making mouths water. Since its establishment in 1950, Linnanmäki has been an integral Finnish summer tradition. Owned by a child welfare organization, the amusement park generates almost 3 million Euros per year for the well-being of children. 21
The historical maritime fortress Suomenlinna is located off the Helsinki coast, only a few kilometres from the city centre. The king of Sweden built it in the 18th century to be the Archipelago Fleet’s naval base and to protect Finland’s coast and Helsinki. Its construction was one of the largest military ventures of the era, employing over six
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thousand soldiers—more than the population of Helsinki at the time. Bastions, fortifications, buildings, dry docks, and a shipyard were built on a cluster of five islands. The work took forty years, during which the island’s inhabitants assimilated into the population of mainland Helsinki. Suomenlinna helped Helsinki prosper, increasing its significance until it was finally made the capital of Finland.
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Nowadays, Suomenlinna is one of Finland’s most popular tourist attractions, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors annually. Suomenlinna offers people fortress walls, cannons, tunnels, museums, cafÊs, restaurants, and tranquil scenes of maritime nature. The island is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Ferries to the fascinating island leave from the Helsinki Market Square. The quarterhour ferry ride is an experience in itself, with an enchanting offshore view of Helsinki and the fragrance of refreshing sea-air. 24
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Architectural Helsinki Helsinki is a unique city, where modern Scandinavian architecture blends in harmony with refined historical style. By the sea, amidst green parks and picturesque streets, the visitor can admire old, traditional wooden villas decorated with intricate lace-carvings and National Romantic stone mansions alongside colourful Art Nouveau and straightforward functionalistic buildings. The most prominent styles in Helsinki architecture are neoclassicism, functionalism, and Art Nouveau, which is present everywhere in Helsinki. Art Nouveau embodies the Finns’ love for nature and a rustic atmosphere. Art Nouveau laid the foundation of modern Finnish architecture and was also an inspiration for Finland’s most famous architect, Alvar Aalto. For friends of architecture, the bright city centre of Helsinki offers brilliant building design. Helsinki is an ideal environment for strolling. 26
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Finnish architecture was not only made known by Art Nouveau but National Romanticism as well. It pursued harmonious and comfortable entities with massive and heavy elements. Quarry stones were used in faรงades, and many buildings had castle-style towers. The National Theatre and the National Museum of Finland are fine examples of National Romantic buildings. The National Museum is also the best place to get acquainted with Finnish history, from pre-historic to modern times. 32
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At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, Art Nouveau was eagerly embraced in Helsinki. There was a quick rise of new buildings that combined elements from nature, so beloved to Finns, and nationalism, which had begun to rise at the time. Art Nouveau was here to stay. Still
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today, a house with animals portrayed on the gate, plant motifs on the wall material, and intricate patterns from nature on the window frames is a dream home for many Helsinki residents.You can get a quick view of Helsinki’s Art Nouveau areas from tram routes 3B and 3T, which circuit the city centre.
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When people make engagements, they often meet at the Three Smiths Statue sculpted by Felix Nylund, in front of the Stockmann Department Store. This area is considered the central point of Helsinki.
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The charming and green Töölönlahti inlet can be found right next to the very centre of Helsinki. Its eastern shore is a flourishing park landscape with beautiful wooden villas decorated with lace-carvings. The western shore, on the other hand, is a cradle of culture. There you can find the Finlandia Hall, designed by Alvar Aalto, and the Finnish National Opera. Nearly 300 performances are given annually in the impressive National Opera building. In addition to opera and ballet, the repertoire includes concerts, free matinees, various events, and performances for children and young people. 40
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The Finlandia Hall was designed by Alvar Aalto and built in 1971. This congress centre is one of the most significant architectural landmarks in Helsinki. It is also one of the most popular tourist attractions, drawing tens of thousands of travellers annually from all over the world. The building is particularly enchanting at night, when the lighting brings out the wave-like architecture of the walls, creating impressions of the northern lights and the sea around Helsinki. 43
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The Helsinki Market Square is Finland’s most international and well known market. There you can purchase handicrafts and souvenirs, in addition to traditional market treats. At a market cafÊ, you can enjoy a cup of coffee and a pastry as well as a beautiful view. The sea is on one side and the green park area of the Esplanade on the other. Around the square you can see beautiful stone buildings such as the Presidential Palace, the Main Guard, the Supreme Court, and the Helsinki City Hall. 45
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Market halls are a central element of Finnish trading traditions. They are often located by market squares, and they host specialized shops, such as fish and meat sellers and handicraft shops, which may otherwise be hard to find nowadays. One of the most time-honoured market halls is the 120-year-old Wanha Kauppahalli next to the Helsinki Market Square. The Hakaniemi Market Hall by the Hakaniemi Market Square is also worth visiting.
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The city of Helsinki is a hospitable place to live in. The most beautiful residential areas can be found around the Kaivopuisto Park, Ullanlinna, Eira, and Kaartinkaupunki. Kallio, a former working-class area, now popular with artists and students, is also charming, perhaps even bohemian. Inhabitants of these areas live in old Art Nouveau buildings with large, bright rooms and high ceilings. 49
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The winter covers Helsinki with a blanket of snow that brightens the dark nights and gives Helsinki a poetic air. The Renaissance Revivalstyle Esplanade is decorated with tiny lights, giving it a silver glimmer. The cupolas of the Uspenski Cathedral gleam in the background. 53
Green Helsinki Helsinki is a modern metropolis with a peaceful, small-town atmosphere, graced by plenty of greenery. It is one of the world’s safest, cleanest, and greenest capitals, a source of pride for Helsinki residents. Helsinki’s numerous parks and recreational opportunities attest to a love for nature. Strolling in a park or hiking in a forest farther from the city centre are popular activities. On weekends, people retreat to a cottage by the sea or by one of Finland’s many lakes, amidst Finnish nature at its best. Nature is also reflected in fashion, architecture, and design. Successful Finnish products often display a touch of forest green and ocean waves. The pronounced seasonal variations of this northern land are among the greatest inspirations for Finns. Nature constantly changes its image, and the scenery appears entirely different in winter, spring, summer, and fall. On the Esplanade, the heart of Helsinki, you can enjoy the seasons in the shade of linden trees. 54
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Helsinki residents have frequented the Esplanade for as long as two hundred years for refreshment, treats, coffee, and reading a newspaper. In winter, when the Esplanade’s trees have shed their leaves, they are decorated with light ornaments. 57
Forests, which Finns call Green Gold, are essential to the Finnish national identity. They are important sources of refreshment and recreation for Helsinki residents. The nearest woods can be found within twenty minutes from the Helsinki centre. Outdoor excursionists unaccustomed to the northern climate should note that the temperature varies throughout spring and autumn days. Even if it is below freezing in the early morning, a t-shirt may be enough to wear in the afternoon. 58
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Nearly half of the Helsinki area is green parkland. Even the city centre hosts a variety of areas for relaxation. The Kaivopuisto Park rests between a picturesque residential area and the shoreline, breathing life to the very heart of Helsinki. In winter, the slopes of Kaivopuisto resound with the laughter of sledding children, and on May Day, thousands of celebrating people with white student’s caps recline on the spring fresh grass or the smooth, sun-warmed rock. During the summer, music lovers can enjoy concerts in the shade of the trees, which, in their
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autumn display of colour, turn the last warm days into pure, aesthetic pleasure. The prettiest and most peaceful seaside cafĂŠs can be found in the vicinity of Kaivopuisto. The inspiring view is a perfect milieu for lunch meetings. By the seaside cafĂŠs, several ferries wait to carry people interested in archipelago nature to the islands off the Helsinki coast. For example, on Harakka Island, glaciated rocks and lush trails usher the visitor into the natural charm of the archipelago. At the Nature House of the City of Helsinki Environment Centre, you can explore marine life and nature, and the history of Harakka Island. 65
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The linden-lined Boulevard passes the Old Church Park, or the so-called Plague Park. Victims of the early 18th century plague were buried in the yard of the church designed by C.L. Engel. Still today, old, moss-covered tombstones remind visitors of the grim history. 67
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In the autumn, the broad-leaved trees of Helsinki change into orange and red attire. People have autumn excursions and picnics in nearby parks and forests. At the Seurasaari Outdoor Museum, not far from the city centre, the whole family can pick berries and mushrooms, and spot migratory birds on their way south. By November, Helsinki is already preparing for the winter.
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Maritime Helsinki Helsinki, Daughter of the Baltic Sea, is a true maritime city. The sea embraces Helsinki from three directions, adding to the city’s charm with its calming effect, freshness, silence, and beauty. The archipelago off the Helsinki coast enchants its visitor. This picturesque puzzle of over three hundred islands is quite unique among the archipelagos of the world. The sea has strongly influenced Helsinki culture. Many of Finland’s most successful artists have rested on these very shores deriving inspiration from the glimmering Gulf of Finland. An excellent way to get acquainted with Helsinki and its lovely sea environment is to take a cruise on the city coast. From the sea, the view of the city skyline is delightful, and many of Helsinki’s most beautiful sights are right by the shore. 73
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Once the spring sun has banished the winter chill, Finnish families often spend a day at a traditional rug washing site, socializing while busy with a burdensome but necessary household chore. The air smells of fresh seawater and pine soap as the past winter’s dust and dirt is rinsed into the waves of the Gulf of Finland. Several ferries carry visitors from the city quays to the islands off the Helsinki coast. The near islands are ideal places for picnics, adventure, excursions, swimming, dancing, competing, and
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relaxation. Uunisaari and Pihlajasaari are among the popular islands. The farther islands are suitable for outdoor recreation, hiking, and camping. They are close to the city, yet entirely surrounded by nature. Those who desire a more extreme ocean experience or the finest fishing waters can take a boat to the outer archipelago, where, over the millennia, the relentless elements have smoothed barren islets into polished grey platforms protruding from the sea.
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The islands of Helsinki have their own unique, traditional villa culture, which began already in the 19th century. When summer arrived, people packed up and travelled by steamboat to their exquisitely decorated wooden island villas for the whole summer. In the autumn, they brought the produce of their gardens with them back to the city. 79
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The people of Helsinki enjoy the short summer to the fullest. When the sun peeks from behind the clouds, they pack their beach bags and make their way to the dozens of beaches around the city. In the evening, people relax and chat in their hot saunas. Bathing whisks made of young and fresh-leaved birch branches give off a pleasant scent and atmosphere. Sausages heated on the sauna stove and cold beer complete the sauna experience.
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The Baltic Sea is a gate to Europe and, ultimately, the whole world. There is plenty of sea traffic from Helsinki, for example, to Sweden and Estonia. Weekend trips to Tallinn and Stockholm have long been a popular Finnish travelling tradition. The destination isn’t as important as the voyage itself. After all, the sea lane passes through one of the most beautiful archipelagos in the world. 89
Foreign cruise ships also belong to the Helsinki summer. As sea tourists descend the gangway, many marvel at the compact city centre and the spacious, fresh, and close to nature spirit of Helsinki. This is no place for rushing from one attraction to another, but for calm enjoyment of the Helsinki atmosphere. 90
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The Gulf of Finland is rich in fish. Baltic herrings and salmon are among its favoured yield. These fish are an essential part of Finnish cuisine. They are often served with mashed or early potatoes. Travellers may also try their fisherman’s luck on the Helsinki waters. No licence is needed for angling, but spinning, trolling, and net fishing require a permit. 92
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The sea around Helsinki freezes in the winter. Sunny winter days draw people out to walk along the ice paths from one shore to another. Some ski, while others glide over the ice on skates. Red-cheeked after outdoor exercise, Finns enjoy rye bread and hot chocolate on the sun-warmed rocks of the shore. Ice-fishers sit in thermal overalls by holes bored through the ice, enjoying the silence of the frozen sea. Winter swimmers can also be seen rushing out of a sauna and plunging into a hole in the ice. Winter swimming is an extraordinary experience that improves the swimmer’s cold tolerance, vitality level, mood, and quality of sleep, while getting rid of pains and aches. 97
Works of art pages 4-5, Emil Wikström, Lyhdynkantajat 1914, © Kuvasto 2010 page 8, Wäinö Aaltonen, Paavo Nurmi 1925, © Kuvasto 2010 pages 10-11, Eila Hiltunen, Sibelius –monument 1967, © Kuvasto 2010 pages 18-19, Ville Vallgren, Havis Amanda 1908, © Other copyright holder, published with the permission of the copyright holder pages 38-39, Felix Nylund, Kolme Seppää 1932, © Other copyright holder, published with the permission of the copyright holder pages 70-71, 98-99, Seurasaari. Photographs published with the permission of the National Museum of Finland
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