56u ft by koledadelosaz

THE PURPOSE ISSUE

“I’m never looking to sit down on what I’ve already done.”

NICOLE KIDMAN Photograph by COLLIER SCHORR / Styling by STELLA GREENSPAN

Dress, BALENCIAGA. High Jewelry Barocko earrings, BULGARI. B

THE PURPOSE ISSUE

ROMA

FENDI BOUTIQUES 646 520 2830

FEN D I .CO M

The PURPOSE Issue HOW DOES ONE FIND PURPOSE? It’s an idea we explore throughout this issue. Certainly, fashion serves a purpose—or many purposes. It can be a vehicle for self-expression and imagination, a source of joy or optimism. But purpose itself is an elastic word. It can connote drive, intention, ambition. It can involve goals and dreams we hatch for ourselves. It can be borne of experience—of things we try, do, survive, or endure. It can be a product of courage or fear. Sometimes the sense of purpose we embrace is immediate: to fix something, to help someone, to go or leave somewhere. Others, it’s more profound: to transform systems, to move hearts and minds, to correct historical injustices. Purpose can be the difference between a job and a cause, an activity and a mission. It can ignite or overwhelm. But it can also lead to those rare, fleeting moments when everything seems to crystallize and we appear to fully understand who we are, why we’re here, and what we need to do. The irony is that those moments of apparent clarity can sometimes be the hardest, when we’re confronted with the most difficult decisions and choices we’ll ever face. But they can also appear as bright, shining beacons that show us the way ahead. HB

Photograph by COLLIER SCHORR / Styling by STELLA GREENSPAN

Dress, cape, and shoes, DOLCE & GABBANA ALTA MODA. B.zero1 earrings and rings, BULGARI. 3

THE PURPOSE ISSUE

Empower the beauty in you. FOR ALL AGES, ALL SKINTONES, ALL SKINTYPES.

esteelauder.com

Lines and Wrinkles Firmness Pores Even Tone Patented Until 2033

Advanced Night Repair Fast Visible Repair. Youth-Generating Power. Wake up radiant. LINES AND WRINKLES appear reduced in just 3 weeks. Skin is fortified, hydrated instantly. Skin feels FIRMER with one bottle1–89% agreed.2 PORES look diminished. Skin looks more EVEN-TONED. 1

1.7 oz./50ml bottle. 2Consumer testing on 543 women.

E D I T O R’ S

L E T T E R In contemplating my own purpose, I could easily fall into an existential crisis. I think I have many purposes: to be a good mother, to love and live fully. I also recognize that I am my ancestors’ wildest dream—that my reason for being is to actualize my full potential in their honor. I’m always awed by people who seem to have a strong sense of purpose, a conviction about who they are and what they want to achieve. But I also cling to the firm belief that each of our lives has immeasurable value and intrinsic purpose, whether we recognize it or not. For most of us, finding a sense of purpose is a process of experience and discovery—one that evolves as we do.

Zero + Maria Cornejo dress. Roberto Coin earrings.

This issue celebrates a range of individuals of extraordinary purpose who have undertaken that journey in full view. Our cover star, Nicole Kidman, photographed by my dear friend Collier Schorr, has found a new creative freedom as both an actor and a producer in the world of prestige TV drama. She is fearless and uncompromising when it comes to her determination to grow and experiment in her craft. “If you’re really dedicated to it over a lifetime, that push-pull will collide with your existence and your connections with your family and all the people in your life,” she tells Amanda Fortini. “I have my work, I have my family, I have my own inner landscape that I explore.” When U.S. representative Cori Bush saw the impending deadline of the eviction moratorium back in July, the freshman congresswoman from Missouri knew she had to do something. So for five days, she camped out on the steps of the Capitol building, sleeping there until she and a group of other legislators persuaded the Biden administration to issue a new moratorium as the Delta variant continued to surge. “We are in an unprecedented and ongoing crisis that demands compassionate solutions,” Bush tells features director Kaitlyn Greenidge. “If I’m not on the inside, if nobody wants to fight, if nobody’s in there to push that agenda, then how do you get [change] on the outside?” A sense of purpose can also manifest itself as collective pursuit. Deputy fashion news editor Alison S. Cohn looks at the remarkable way the tight-knit Italian fashion industry responded to the pandemic. Brunello Cucinelli, Giorgio Armani, and Miuccia Prada are just a few of the designers who quickly sprang to action, donating money for ventilators and ICU units; manufacturing protective gear for frontline workers; and, more recently, turning offices into vaccination centers. And Nancy Jo Sales speaks to the scions of two wealthy American families who are trying to create a new model for giving. They’re partnering with progressive nonprofits to offer direct support to activists, advocates, and movements doing crucial grassroots work in areas like social justice and climate change. In times like these, it can sometimes be hard to find purpose, to feel like our individual actions make a difference. But it’s in precisely these moments that they matter most—maybe now more than ever.

10/21

BUSH: XAVIER SCOTT MARSHALL; FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO; HAIR: ANASTON RICHARDSON; MAKEUP: D. “CARTA” DAVIS. NASR: JODY ROGAC. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS.

What does it mean to have PURPOSE?

INTRODUCING THIS ISSUE’S MUSIC DIRECTOR

JAZMINE SULLIVAN FEATURED TRACKS

STEVIE WONDER, INNERVISIONS: MOTOWN RECORDS/UNIVERSAL MUSIC GROUP; BEYONCÉ, THE LION KING: THE GIFT: PARKWOOD ENTERTAINMENT/COLUMBIA RECORDS; JAZMINE SULLIVAN, REALITY SHOW: RCA RECORDS; QUEEN, NEWS OF THE WORLD: HOLLYWOOD RECORDS/UNIVERSAL MUSIC GROUP; MARY J. BLIGE, MY LIFE: REPUBLIC RECORDS/UNIVERSAL MUSIC GROUP

1. “VISIONS” Stevie Wonder

2. “BIGGER” Beyoncé

3. “MASTERPIECE (MONA LISA)” Jazmine Sullivan

4. “WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS” Queen

5. “MY LIFE” Mary J. Blige

FULL PLAYLIST

“I knew MUSIC WAS MY CALLING very early on, but recently it’s become A PLATFORM for me to HELP PEOPLE in other ways.” Jazmine Sullivan created her most recent EP, Heaux Tales, to uplift women, interspersing her stripped-down songs with raw monologues from female figures in her life. “It centers on their stories so others could hear them, identify with them, and feel seen,” explains the 34-year-old R&B singer. This summer, inspired by her mother’s 2019 breast-cancer diagnosis, she joined a campaign to encourage Black women to get mammograms. “So much of my life has been about myself,” she says. “When my mom got sick, it became about

easing somebody else’s pain.” For this issue, Sullivan curated a playlist focused on the theme of purpose, which, to her, is about “fulfilling your personal dreams and goals while also finding a way to give back in meaningful ways.” Along with Beyoncé’s “Bigger” (“It makes you look outside of your own personal woes”), the list includes Queen’s “We Are the Champions” (the “ultimate hypeyourself-up song”) and Stevie Wonder’s “Visions.” “In everything that he does, he tries to bring joy, hope, and love to the world.” HB

6. “SWEET LIFE” Frank Ocean. 7. “CRANES IN THE SKY” Solange. 8. “I’VE KNOWN RIVERS” Gary Bartz. 9. “WAKE UP EVERYBODY” Harold Melvin & the Blue Notes (Feat. Teddy Pendergrass). 10. “KEEP ON MOVIN’” Soul II Soul. 11. “MY FUTURE” Billie Eilish. 12. “AIN’T GOT NO–I GOT LIFE” Nina Simone. 13. “SILVER LINING” Jazmine Sullivan. 14. “CLARITY” John Mayer. 15. “LOSE MYSELF” Lauryn Hill. 16. “ISAIAH SONG” Maverick City Music (Feat. Chandler Moore). Listen to Sullivan’s full playlist exclusively on Apple Music.

TEXT BY ARIANA MARSH / PHOTOGRAPH BY MYESHA EVON GARDNER

FALLING FOR... The new Winston with Love collection from famed jeweler Harry Winston celebrates the four facets of love.

THE OBSESSION Does love exist without passion? Certainly, but that doesn’t mean it’s ideal. Passion excites the senses—there’s a reason desire is typically described as “burning.” That white-hot intensity is evoked in an ultramodern cascade of diamonds and gemstones with colors matching the layers of a flame itself—red, yellow, orange, and purple—for a truly obsession-worthy effect.

THE LIGHT Winston Light Brilliant Glow necklace and bracelet

At the start of every romance, there are invariably fireworks. They may be literal or figurative, but regardless, any good origin story involves sparks. After all, love is many things, including a beacon of light. Harry Winston has captured that pure optimism in a jewelry suite made from glittering white and yellow diamonds, pink sapphires, spessartites, and rubies, using gem-setting expertise that results in pieces as fluid as fabric.

Winston Obsession Dancing Flames earrings

THE ETERNAL Perhaps it’s only fitting that a necklace illustrating the infiniteness of love comes from an archival Harry Winston design. Just as love has neither beginning nor end, so too the dazzling strands of intertwined diamonds and rubies in the handcrafted Endless Love collection offer an everlasting embrace. What began as Light, traveled through Obsession, and culminated in a Vow has now become Eternal.

Winston Eternal Endless Love necklace

THE VOW Winston Vow Winston Promise ring and pendant

Now, this is serious. When a couple is ready to make a lifetime commitment to one another, whether in public or in private, it’s abundantly clear that they have each other’s heart. The handcrafted Winston Promise pendant and ring, both ablaze with sparkling white and yellow diamonds, crimson rubies, and pink sapphires, show the world a vow taken and a promise for forever. For more information visit harrywinston.com or call 800-988-4110.

* Same notes, two identities

C 30. 32.

T 97.

DOUBLE DUTY

JAZMINE SULLIVAN

TEXT BY KATIE INTNER

WHY DON’T YOU…? CONTRIBUTORS

PHOTOGRAPH BY HORACIO SALINAS

100. NICOLE KIDMAN: COLLIER SCHORR; FASHION EDITOR: STELLA GREENSPAN; HAIR: TAMAS TUZES; MAKEUP: HOLLY SILIUS; MANICURE: THUY NGUYEN. ANITA HILL: CAMILA FALQUEZ; FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO; HAIR AND MAKEUP: KELLEY QUAN. MARGARET QUALLEY: DEIRDRE LEWIS; FASHION EDITOR: SAMIRA NASR; HAIR: BOB RECINE; MAKEUP: ROMY SOLEIMANI; MANICURE: AJA WALTON. LOUIS VUITTON TRUNK: SEBASTIAN LAGER

THE BAZAAR 51.

THE GOOD BUY MARKET MEMO The Printed Maxi Dress The Leopard-Print Coat IN THE FASHION CLOSET PORTRAIT MODE PRO SHOP 4 OF A KIND Bermuda Dress Shorts THE ANKLET 4 OF A KIND Mini Bags WATCHES THE CASE SHOPPING LIST DRESS CODES

52. 58. 60. 63. 64. 66. 68. 70. 72. 74. 76. 80.

BEAUTY

EDITOR’S LETTER PLAYLIST

40. 42.

TEXT BY LEANDRA MEDINE COHEN

HOW TO LOOK MORE AWAKE TEXT BY KATIE INTNER

102.

THE SHARPER IMAGE

104.

BEAUTY NEWS

TEXT BY JESSICA IREDALE

COVER 109. THE GOLDEN AGE OF NICOLE KIDMAN

109. NICOLE KIDMAN

TEXT BY AMANDA FORTINI PHOTOGRAPHS BY COLLIER SCHORR STYLING BY STELLA GREENSPAN

FASHION 122. EASY DOES IT PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN MARTENSEN STYLING BY

VOICES 82.

CAMILLE BIDAULT-WADDINGTON

PROFILE

FEATURES

THE MIGHT OF CORI BUSH

130. TRUNK SHOW

TEXT BY KAITLYN GREENIDGE PHOTOGRAPHS BY XAVIER SCOTT MARSHALL

86.

ESSAY

TEXT BY ALISON S. COHN PHOTOGRAPHS BY SEBASTIAN LAGER

132. MARGARET QUALLEY IS LEARNING TO LET GO

DRESSING IN LIMBO TEXT BY LAIA GARCIA-FURTADO ARTWORK BY K YOUNG

88.

AS TOLD TO

ANITA HILL WON’T BACK DOWN

TEXT BY MOLLY CREEDEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEIRDRE LEWIS STYLING BY SAMIRA NASR

142. RADICAL GIVING

PHOTOGRAPH BY CAMILA FALQUEZ

NEWS & CULTURE 90.

TEXT BY NANCY JO SALES

GIVING BACK, THE ITALIAN WAY

IMAGES BY PABLO DELCAN ILLUSTRATED BY JUSTIN METZ

TEXT BY ALISON S. COHN PHOTOGRAPH BY FRANCESCO BRIGIDA

92.

IN FOCUS

JACOB COLLIER TEXT BY ANDREA CUTTLER PHOTOGRAPHS BY GABBY LAURENT

94.

FASHION & CULTURE NEWS

Nicole Kidman: Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda dress, cape, and shoes. Anita Hill: Tory Burch blouse. Bulgari B.zero1 earrings. Margaret Qualley: Gucci jacket, shirt, and pants. Trunk: Louis Vuitton Louis 200 trunk by Gloria Steinem.

106. 150. 152.

ASTROLOGY DIRECTORY ARCHIVE HIRO, JULY 1964

On the cover with black and red dress: Dior dress and belt. Bulgari High Jewelry necklace. Wolford tights. On the cover with gold dress: Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda dress, cape, and shoes. Bulgari B.zero1 earrings and rings. To get Kidman’s look, try Skin Feels Good Nourishing Foundation ($35), Lash Idôle Mascara ($26), Brow Define Pencil ($25), Blush Subtil in Sheer Amourose ($32), and L’Absolu Rouge Drama Matte Lipstick in Nude Essentiel ($32). All, Lancôme. See the Directory for shopping details.

WHY

DON’T

YOU. . . ?

The Month in CULTURE and STYLE 1 SEE LAST NIGHT IN SOHO

In director Edgar Wright’s new psychological horror film, an aspiring designer named Eloise (Thomasin McKenzie) is mysteriously transported back to 1966 London, where she is dazzled by a budding singer (Anya Taylor-Joy). But the glamour fades when the dark history that links them comes to light. Out October 29.

3 BREAK THE MOLD

Let your creativity run wild with Sculpd’s at-home pottery kit, which has everything needed to carve, paint, and seal an original masterpiece (pinch pots encouraged). sculpd.com.

2 EXPLORE A NEW PERSPECTIVE

Featuring more than 130 works by artists from 24 countries, “Afro-Atlantic Histories” reexamines the legacy of the transatlantic slave trade and celebrates the ongoing influence of the African diaspora in the West. Opening October 24 at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, the exhibition will include pieces by artists such as Aaron Douglas, Samuel Fosso, and Kara Walker.

4 WITNESS OPERA HISTORY

New York’s Metropolitan Opera makes a triumphant return with Terence Blanchard’s Fire Shut Up in My Bones, marking the company’s first presentation of a work by a Black composer. An adaptation of journalist Charles M. Blow’s memoir, which addresses racism, class, and sexual abuse, the production stars Will Liverman, Angel Blue, and Latonia Moore and features a libretto by Kasi Lemmons. Through October 23.

5 SNACK WITH IMPACT

Eat Offbeat offers authentic provisions prepared by and benefiting refugees and immigrants in New York, like Senegalese spiced candied peanuts, Syrian barazek sesame cookies, Venezuelan pineapple jam, and Iraqi walnut-tahini dates. eatoffbeat.com.

6 FREAK OUT TO JUNO

Remi Wolf’s debut album, named after the dog she adopted in quarantine, drops October 15 and features 13 tracks of her signature funky psychpop. Highlights include “Liquor Store,” about her journey to sobriety, and “Quiet on Set,” a thumping ode to feeling reckless and overworked.

7 TIE ONE ON

As shown by Adam Lippes, Tory Burch, and Etro, an extra-long silk scarf can add drama and elongate any silhouette.

ANYA TAYLOR-JOY AND MATT SMITH IN LAST NIGHT IN SOHO: PARISA TAGHIZADEH/FOCUS FEATURES; SAMUEL FOSSO, SELF-PORTRAIT (AS LIBERATED AMERICAN WOMAN OF THE ’70S), 1997, MUSEUM PURCHASE FUNDED BY NINA AND MICHAEL ZILKHA; SCULPD’S POTTERY KIT: COURTESY SCULPD; TERENCE BLANCHARD’S OPERA FIRE SHUT UP IN MY BONES: ERIC WOOLSEY/OPERA THEATRE OF ST. LOUIS; EAT OFFBEAT’S SRI LANKAN SNACK MIX: SARUJEN SIVAKUMAR; REMI WOLF’S JUNO: ISLAND RECORDS; ADAM LIPPES, TORY BURCH, ETRO RESORT 2022: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS

TEXT BY ARIANA MARSH

C O N T R I B U T O R S

STELLA GREENSPAN

COLLIER SCHORR

AMANDA FORTINI

DEIRDRE LEWIS

STYLIST: “The Golden Age of Nicole Kidman,” page 109

PHOTOGRAPHER: “The Golden Age of Nicole Kidman,” page 109

WRITER: “The Golden Age of Nicole Kidman,” page 109

PHOTOGRAPHER: “Margaret Qualley Is Learning to Let Go,” page 132

“I look for purpose in my friends and in giving back. I look for purpose in community.”

“My purpose was always linked to my photographic and writing practice. In some ways, the thought that I could pass on representation to people who felt invisible was enough. Now my purpose is to act on the spiritual tools I am gathering so that everyone is treated as potentially supported.”

“I have covered two mass shootings and am writing a book about Las Vegas, and I find purpose in telling the stories of people and places that often get overlooked. I also look to nature—to its vastness, beauty, and mystery. It keeps things in perspective for me.”

“So many places. I’m fortunate enough to find purpose in my work, in creation and collaboration. I also find so much purpose in spending time with my family, my community, and small acts of kindness.”

NANCY JO SALES

PABLO DELCAN

LAIA GARCIA-FURTADO

STEPHEN MOOALLEM

WRITER: “Radical Giving,” page 142

IMAGES: “Radical Giving,” page 142

WRITER: “Dressing in Limbo,” page 86

HARPER’S BAZAAR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR AT LARGE

“The stories that mean the most to me are the ones where suffering or injustice is exposed. I find purpose in writing about ways to make the world a better place. That’s why it was exciting for me to interview the women in my piece who are working to democratize wealth.”

“I surround myself with materials and tools. There is something incredibly fulfilling about using them to create things that communicate and connect with people. I find purpose in that process.”

“I find purpose in my family and in my friends. In remembering how far I’ve come. In knowing the future is full of possibilities, and in believing that what comes is better than what came before.”

“I have three kids, so I don’t ever really feel like I have to look very far.”

SCHORR: SELF-PORTRAIT; FORTINI: MELANIE NASHAN; LEWIS: CAITLIN DRONEN; SALES: JAYNE WEXLER; MOOALLEM: EMILY OVIATT

ON WHERE THEY LOOK TO FIND PURPOSE

Editor in Chief

SAMIRA NASR Creative Director

LAURA GENNINGER Executive Editor

LEAH CHERNIKOFF Executive Managing Editor

ELLEN PAYNE Executive Fashion Director

NICOLE FRITTON Digital Director

NIKKI OGUNNAIKE Entertainment Director

ANDREA CUTTLER Managing Editor

CARL KELSCH

FASHION

ART

Fashion Director MIGUEL ENAMORADO

Art Director GARY PONZO

Accessories Director AMANDA ALAGEM

Senior Designer ELLEN MACDERMOTT

Digital Fashion & Features Director KERRY PIERI

Art & Color Coordinator JUSTIN MAIN

Deputy Fashion News Editor ALISON S. COHN

Lead Motion Designer ANNA AIELLO

Fashion & Accessories Editor JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN

Digital Imaging Specialist KEVIN ARNOLD

Fashion & Retail Credits Editor ALICIA BANILIVY Associate Fashion Commerce Editor HALIE LESAVAGE

VISUAL

Assistant Fashion Editor NICOLE TRIPODIS

Chief Visual Content Director, Hearst Magazines ALIX CAMPBELL

Assistant Accessories Editor JENNIFER JENKINS

Bookings & Visual Production Director IGNACIO MURILLO

Contributing Fashion Assistants JACQUELINE CHEN, TAYLOR DRAGO,

Visual Director NATASHA LUNN

COZETTE GONZALES, JERUSALEM HAILUE, FATIMA MOURAD,

Digital Visual Director JENNIFER ALGOO

ERIN TURNER, TYLER VANVRANKEN

Photo Archivist & Research Editor KARIN KATO

BEAUTY

Contributing Visual Editor MARINA SCHOGER

Visual Editor CORI JAYNE HOWARTH Beauty Director JESSICA MATLIN Digital Beauty Director JENNA ROSENSTEIN

VIDEO

Associate Beauty Commerce Editor TIFFANY DODSON

Supervising Video Producer KATHRYN RICE

Assistant Beauty Editor KATIE INTNER

Director of Photography & Creative Producer ROBERTO DUMÉ Post-Production Supervisor ERICA DILLMAN

NEWS & FEATURES

Senior Video Editor LEE MANANSALA

Features Director KAITLYN GREENIDGE

Producer & Editor ISABEL MONTES

Contributing Editor at Large STEPHEN MOOALLEM Digital Deputy Editor IZZY GRINSPAN Digital Entertainment Director NOJAN AMINOSHAREI

ADMINISTRATION

Digital Weddings & Travel Director CARRIE GOLDBERG

Editorial Business Director CAROL LUZ

Senior Features Editor ARIANA MARSH

Editorial Business Manager KATHERYN REMULLA

Digital Associate Editor BIANCA BETANCOURT Associate Social Media & News Editor CHELSEY SANCHEZ Executive Assistant to the Editor in Chief ALEXANDRA DELIFER

COPY & RESEARCH Copy Chief SARAH STRZELEC Research Chief JIL DERRYBERRY Contributing Copy Editor ALEXA LAWRENCE

Senior Vice President/Publishing Director

CAROL A. SMITH Vice President/General Manager

Head of Marketing

Executive Director, Advertising Business Operations

ANNE WELCH

BRENT WILLIAMS ALLEN

JEANINE TRIOLO

Associate Publisher/Integrated Marketing

Group Finance Manager

Executive Assistant, Business Associate

LISA PIANA

RON SABATINI

DANA WENTZEL

BRANCH OFFICES

INTEGRATED ADVERTISING SALES

WEST COAST Executive Director SANDY ADAMSKI

Group Advertising Director, Beauty JOANNA NOWACK MELISSAKIS Group Executive Director, Fashion & Luxury AARON KRANSDORF Senior Executive Director, Luxury KATE SLAVIN Executive Director, Fashion/Retail PAULA FORTGANG Executive Director, Special Projects AMANDA GILLENTINE Executive Directors, Beauty TAMMY COHEN, JILL SCHLANGER-SLIVKA Fashion Account Director MICHAEL RIGGIO Direct Media Senior Account Manager ANGELA HRONOPOULOS Sales Coordinator RACHEL MOTOLA

Executive West Coast Director MARJAN DIPIAZZA TELEPHONE: (310) 664-2973 SOUTHWEST Manager LUCINDA WEIKEL LUCINDA@WNPMEDIA.COM MIDWEST Executive Director, Integrated Sales ABBY BURDICK TELEPHONE: (312) 964-4958

INTEGRATED MARKETING

ADVERTISING OPERATIONS

Executive Director, Integrated Marketing LINDSAY SABLE Senior Director, Integrated Marketing DANA MENDELOWITZ Director, Digital Marketing ALEXANDRA KEKALOS Director, Integrated Marketing AIMEE COUTURE Associate Director, Integrated Marketing SARA OLDMIXON Manager, Integrated Marketing BRIANA ROTELLO Associate Managers, Integrated Marketing GEORGIA KARACOSTAS, EMILY LETCHFORD, COURTNEY MC MORROW

Advertising Services Director MICHAEL NIES Advertising Services & Operations Manager MICHELLE LUIS

PRODUCTION & ADMINISTRATION Operations Account Manager PATRICIA NOLAN

President & Chief Executive Officer STEVEN R. SWARTZ

BRAND DEVELOPMENT Executive Director, Brand Development NICOLE SPICEHANDLER Senior Director, Brand Development ALEXANDRA STETZER Manager, Brand Development MELANIE SINGER

Chairman WILLIAM R. HEARST III Executive Vice Chairman FRANK A. BENNACK, JR.

EVENTS & BRAND PARTNERSHIPS Manager, Special Events JESSICA HEINMILLER

Chief Operating Officer MARK E. ALDAM

CREATIVE SERVICES

Secretary CATHERINE A. BOSTRON

Executive Director, Creative Services THEA KARAS Senior Art Director JESSICA TSOUPLAKIS Art Director ALICE STEVENS

HEARST MAGAZINE MEDIA, INC. President & Treasurer DEBI CHIRICHELLA

SHOPBAZAAR.COM Executive Director, E-Commerce CATHAY ZHAO Editorial Director JADE FRAMPTON Senior Director, E-Commerce Sales & Marketing NOËLLE TOTA Senior Content & Social Media Manager MINNA SHIM Senior Fashion Editor & Brand Manager JESSICA RAWLS E-Commerce Manager MIR MARTZ Assistant Managing Editor LYNDSEY NOEL Assistant Merchandising Editor REMY SCHIFFMAN Designer DELANEY LAUX Branded Content Coordinator KATHLEEN O’KEEFE E-Commerce Coordinator REBECCA THERLONGE Branded Content Editorial Coordinator SIERRA MAYHEW

Chief Content Officer KATE LEWIS Chief Business Officer KRISTEN M. O’HARA Publishing Consultants GILBERT C. MAURER, MARK F. MILLER

INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS Arabia, Australia, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Malaysia, Mexico, Netherlands, Qatar, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Singapore, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, United Kingdom, Vietnam

Senior Vice President/International Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST. CLAIR BODDEN International Editorial Director, Luxury Brands ELÉONORE MARCHAND

CUSTOMER SERVICE Call: 800-888-3045 E-mail: harcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com Visit: service.harpersbazaar.com Write: Customer Service Department, Harper’s Bazaar, P.O. Box 6000, Harlan, IA 51593

FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE A LITTLE INTENSE A B O U T H Y D R AT I O N

4 8 - H O U R H Y D R AT I O N • H E A LT H Y G L O W Y S K I N

FOR PEOPLE WITH SKIN

B A

WHAT TO BUY AND HOW TO WEAR IT EDITED BY JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN

KOREK: STEFANIE KEENAN/GETTY IMAGE. STILL LIFE STYLING: ANITA SALERNO

THE GOOD BUY: Saint Laurent moto

Saint Laurent jacket; similar styles available at 212-980-2970.

SERPENTINE GALLERIES CEO BETTINA KOREK on the EMOTIONAL SIGNIFICANCE of her LEATHER JACKET I’ve always been a uniform dresser. I wear a version of the same outfit every day, and 99 percent of the time it’s all black. Something I love about working in the art world is you never know where the day is going to take you. I like to be ready for anything, and my Saint Laurent jacket is a functional all-weather piece that goes with everything. I bought it in Los Angeles in 2014 after a couple of years of searching for the perfect one. I was looking for a classic style that would last forever and get better with age. This one has a boxy shape, but it’s also slim fitting and flattering. The hardware is pretty simple and not overly 1

embellished. I tried it on a bunch of times and convinced myself I could wear it with jeans or gowns and everything in between. When I eventually bought it, I brought along my mom, a graphic designer, who was my biggest style influence. Her clothing was an extension of her creativity. She loved leather jackets and had a small collection of them and viewed each one as an investment. She was a sensitive person, and I think her style was very much about feeling a bit tougher. This jacket now helps remind me of her. We hold people’s memories inside of ourselves, but having mementos helps. AS TOLD TO ARIANA MARSH

PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD MAJCHRZAK

B A

MARKET MEMO: The Printed Maxi Dress

MODEL: JOLIE ALIEN. RUNWAY, FROM TOP: DAN LECCA, JOE WILLIAMS, TODD COLE; ALL RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS; ALTUZARRA DRESS: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

Pattern PLAY

JASON WU

BRANDON MAXWELL

LONG GAME From top: Erdem dress, $2,165; erdem.com. Altuzarra dress, $1,695; altuzarra.com. Gabriela Hearst dress, $3,990; gabrielahearst.com. Isabel Marant dress, $1,465; shopBAZAAR.com.

WEAR IT WITH...

RODARTE

Clockwise from top left: Nouvel Heritage earrings, $1,700; nouvelheritage.com. Messika Paris earrings, $7,260; messika.com. Roberto Coin earrings, $2,750; us.robertocoin.com. Pulse Dinh Van earrings, $2,640; saks.com.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JEM MITCHELL

NEIMAN MARCUS

JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. STYLIST: MIAKO KATOH.

THE FALL HEROES

REINTRODUCE YOURSELF with the MUST-HAVE PIECES from the EDITORS of HARPER’S BAZAAR

Shopping at ShopBAZAAR.com is easier than ever. Scan the QR code with your smartphone to shop each piece and explore styling tips from BAZAAR editors in our Fall Heroes video series.

→

NEIMAN MARCUS AT

Chloé gilet, $5,895.

Scan the code to shop this Chloé Hero and see how our editors styled it on ShopBAZAAR.com.

KEEP IT COZY. Feeling good this fall is everything. So as you shed those loungewear looks, reintroduce yourself in choice garments that feel as good on the body as they look in the mirror. Enter: Chloé’s longline shearling gilet. Like a warm hug, this luxe layering Hero, which can be dressed up or down, is the only comfort zone you’ll want to stay in this season. Throw it on over everything—from casual basics and suiting to monochrome ensembles. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

THE FALL HEROES

Bottega Veneta bag, $2,950.

Scan the code to shop this Bottega Veneta Hero and see how our editors styled it on ShopBAZAAR.com.

GREEN WITH ENVY. Because arm candy spent the better part of last year confined to the depths of your closet, unveil this handbag heroine as the star of your outfits this fall. A reinvigorating addition to your collection, Bottega Veneta’s coveted design is constructed from buttery leather

and accented with the in-demand chain-link strap. In a verdant hue that exudes optimism and elegance, it’s a gem worthy of showing off. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

NEIMAN MARCUS AT

Victoria Beckham tunic, $750.

Scan the code to shop this Victoria Beckham Hero and see how our editors styled it on ShopBAZAAR.com.

CHAIN REACTION. If there’s anything last year has taught us, it’s that nostalgia, while delicate, is indeed potent. Same goes for our closets. Inspired by 1970s glamour, Victoria Beckham’s tunic nods to an era that celebrated freedom of expression, and gets a modern update with a body-baring neckline and metallic chains that shine bright. It’s poised to become the easy-glam top you’ll reach for time and again. Don’t dare to bare? Layer over shirting or a turtleneck. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

THE FALL HEROES

Prada boot, $1,120.

Scan the code to shop this Prada Hero and see how our editors styled it on ShopBAZAAR.com.

TREAD EVERYWHERE. Reacquainting your feet with actual shoes is possible…when you treat your soles to Prada’s sought-after boots. Not one to sacrifice style for comfort, the renowned fashion house crafted this fall fashion Hero from a smooth calfskin leather, elevating the pull-on Chelsea style with twoinch stacked rubber heels that are unexpectedly light. It’s the trans-seasonal footwear that can carry you from fall to winter to total world domination. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

B A

MARKET MEMO: The Leopard-Print Coat

GUESS

R13

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

BRANDON MAXWELL RUNWAY: JOE WILLIAMS; ALL RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS; STILL LIFE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D. STYLING: ANITA SALERNO

Spot ON

7 FOR ALL MANKIND

RUNWAY, FROM LEFT: MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION, DIOR, BRANDON MAXWELL, CELINE, BALENCIAGA, ETRO, LANVIN

WILD THINGS From left: Guess coat, $278; guess.com. R13 jacket, $995; r13.com. Zadig & Voltaire coat, $498; us.zadig-et-voltaire.com. 7 for All Mankind coat, $598; 7forallmankind.com.

WEAR IT WITH... From front: Celine by Hedi Slimane bag, $2,350; celine.com. Edas bag, $395; farfetch.com. The Row bag, $2,650; therow.com.

HAPPY SPORT - Handcrafted in Ethical Gold -

CHOPARD BOUTIQUES NEW YORK 709 Madison Avenue – MIAMI Bal Harbour Shops – COSTA MESA South Coast Plaza 1-800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

B A

IN THE FASHION CLOSET: Knee-High Boots

GABRIELA HEARST BOOTS, $1,890; SHOPBAZAAR.COM.

HERMÈS BOOTS, $1,975; HERMES.COM.

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

Tall ORDER

MANOLO BLAHNIK BOOTS, $1,295; SHOPBAZAAR.COM.

FENDI BOOTS, $1,490 EACH; FENDI.COM.

FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN.

3.1 PHILLIP LIM BOOTS, $950; 3.1PHILLIPLIM.COM.

SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO BOOTS, $1,595; 212-980-2970.

JIL SANDER BOOTS, $1,490; JILSANDER.COM.

Fall’s BEST LEATHER BOOTS have BLOCK HEELS and LONG SILHOUETTES

TORY BURCH BOOTS, $598; TORYBURCH.COM. LEFT: THE ROW BOOTS, $1,950; THEROW.COM.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY IGNACIO MURILLO

chanel.com

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

B A

PORTRAIT MODE

FASHION EDITOR: AMANDA ALAGEM. STYLING: JOCELYN CABRAL

Charm SCHOOL Add whimsy to a cozy RIBBED SWEATER with playful LAYERED NECKLACES

Tory Sport sweaters, $498–$598; torysport.com. Top left: Messika Paris charm necklace (top); messika.com. Harwell Godfrey chain necklace (bottom), $3,800, and medallions, $3,500–$7,950; twistonline.com. Top right: Le Vian bracelets (shown as necklace, top), $5,448–$9,098; levian.com. Retrouvaí mauve and red tourmaline charms, $1,708 each; twistonline.com. David Yurman pink bee charm, $1,900; davidyurman.com. Marlo Laz coin necklace (middle); marlolaz.com. FD Gallery charm necklace (bottom); FD Gallery, NYC, 212-772-2440. Bottom right: Storrow Jewelry chain (top), $4,295, and medallions, $3,495–$4,995; storrowjewelry.com. Selim Mouzannar heart charm, $2,260, and clover charm, $3,500; Mitchells, Westport, CT, 203-227-5165. Foundrae black enamel medallion, $1,550, and arrow medallion, $2,195; foundrae.com. Roberto Coin necklace (bottom), $4,300, with additional pendants, $3,200 each; robertocoin.com. Bottom left: Sydney Evan charm necklace (top), $11,570; sydneyevan.com. Have a Heart x Muse charm necklace (middle); musexmuse.com. Signed Fred Leighton charm necklace (bottom); fredleighton.com.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS C. CARD

B A

PRO SHOP: The Dive Watch

Dialed IN

Longines watch, $1,600;

WATCHES: COURTESY THE BRANDS

longines.com.

Omega watch, $6,500; omegawatches.com.

Rolex watch, $12,900; rolex.com.

Bulgari watch, $2,950; bulgari.com.

How ocean advocate ALEXANDRA COUSTEAU clocks her race against time As a granddaughter of the late Jacques Cousteau, the pioneering undersea explorer and researcher, Alexandra Cousteau was raised understanding the urgency of protecting the ocean. “My grandfather taught me to dive when I was seven, so this is all very much part of who I am,” she says. In 2018, Cousteau cofounded Oceans 2050, a nonprofit seeking to restore marine life over the next 30 years by engaging the public in projects that are accessible, concrete, and scalable. “Half of the fish that used to swim in the oceans my grandfather explored just 60, 70 years ago are gone,” she explains, adding that climate change, coral bleaching, over64

fishing, and plastic waste are largely to blame. Recently, Oceans 2050 launched a new public search engine, .blue, which donates all revenue toward combating these issues. It’s also working with communities on seaweed farming and seagrass cultivation, both of which help sequester carbon and “create new livelihoods related to the ocean for a regenerative blue economy.” On research trips and expeditions, Cousteau relies on her Rolex dive watch. “It feels like a connection to my legacy,” she explains, noting that her dad and grandfather each wore one. “It’s elegant, and blue is my favorite color, so I look at it and I’m happy.” ARIANA MARSH

PHOTOGRAPH BY PADDY SCOTT

B A

4 OF A KIND: Bermuda Dress Shorts

FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. MANICURE: SHIRLEY CHENG FOR CHANEL

Extended PLAY

KNEE-LENGTH SHORTS become a multiseasonal staple when worn with HIGH BOOTS or SOCKS and HEELS

Top left: Rosetta Getty top, $525, and Bermuda shorts, $2,440; rosettagetty.com. Hermès boots, $1,975; hermes.com. Top right: Dries Van Noten blazer, $1,190, shirt, $2,225, shorts, $655, and shoes, $698; driesvannoten-la.com. Fogal knee-highs, $23; fogal.com. Bottom right: Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello tuxedo jacket, $3,290, shirt, $690, Bermuda shorts, $950, and tights, $210; 212-980-2970. Jimmy Choo boots, $1,250; jimmychoo.com. Bottom left: Louis Vuitton boots, $2,470, blazer, shirt, and shorts; 866-VUITTON.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY

B A

FASHION EDITOR: AMANDA ALAGEM

THE ANKLET

It Takes TWO Messika’s DANCING ON AIR ANKLET is an elegant pas de deux, with a WRAP DESIGN and a set of PEAR-SHAPED DIAMONDS

Messika Paris anklet; messika.com.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CRISTA LEONARD

P L E A S E E N J O Y R E S P O N S I B LY

B A

4 OF A KIND: Mini Bags

FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. MANICURE: SHIRLEY CHENG FOR CHANEL

Small WONDERS

BALANCE out a diminutive TOP-HANDLE BAG with sparkly COCKTAIL RINGS

Clockwise from top left: Chanel purse vanity, $2,100; 800-550-0005. Dior bag, $3,800; 800-929-DIOR. Balenciaga bag, $995; 212-328-1671. Missoni bag; missoni.com. Throughout: Harry Winston rings; 800-988-4110.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY

ALLIE HOLLOWAY/STUDIO D. STYLIST: JOSEPH EPISCOPO/B&A. HAIR & MAKEUP: MIGUEL LLEDO/B&A. MODEL: MARIAH CASTRO/NEXT MANAGEMENT.

Made from eco-friendly recycled material, the PXG Leather Trim Polo, $120, features leather-trimmed details that are sure to turn heads whether you’re on the course or out for cocktails.

The PXG Two Tone Legging, $125, features white color blocking and is made of a breathable quick-dry fabric that’s perfect for making moves.

AHEAD OF THE GAME PXG’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection has the sporty staples you need in your arsenal this season. As temperatures drop and cold weather rolls in, finding the perfect pieces to keep us warm and cozy become essential items on our must-have list. From a puffer jacket with runway-ready details to leggings you’ll want to live in, PXG’s latest collection will keep you comfortable and stylish, no matter what the season brings. Shop the entire collection on PXG.COM/APPAREL. Made with 90/10 down filling, the oversize PXG Unisex Puffer Jacket, $485, is roomy enough to layer over sweaters and features an inside zipper to hide away any essentials.

B A

WATCHES

COURTESY THE BRANDS. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS.

Golden HOUR

A classic round TIMEPIECE with an ELEGANTLY DECORATIVE BEZEL is still the glittering standard Clockwise from top left: Harry Winston watch; 800-988-4110. Patek Philippe watch; patek.com. Chopard timepiece; 800-CHOPARD. Rolex watch; rolex.com. Cartier watch; 800-CARTIER. Vacheron Constantin watch; vacheron-constantin.com.

B A

THE CASE

FASHION EDITOR: AMANDA ALAGEM. STYLING: JOCELYN CABRAL

Practical MAGIC This sleek new MULTIPURPOSE CASE from HERMÈS is the ultimate in FUNCTIONAL ELEGANCE, featuring INDIVIDUAL COMPARTMENTS that hold a phone, earbuds, credit cards, and lipstick

Hermès Hermèsway phone cases, $2,175–$3,000, and Hermès Rouge Hermès lipsticks, $67 each; hermes.com.

PHOTOGRAPH BY RYAN JENQ

B A

SHOPPING LIST: Transitional Staples The Wrap Coat The Turquoise Pendant The Beaded Bracelets The Denim Jacket The Leather Joggers The Caged Heel The Multistone Ring CREWNECK, COAT, PANTS, AND SHOE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS. STYLING: JILL TELESNICKI

The Quilted Bag The Patterned Crewneck

Clockwise from center: Herno coat, $1,750; herno.com. Charles Loloma pendant; mahnazcollection.com. Lagos bangles, $300 each; lagos.com. Fear of God trucker jacket, $895; fearofgod.com. Brunello Cucinelli trousers, $4,195; 212-334-1010. Chelsea Paris shoe, $595; chelseaparis.com. Le Vian ring, $899; levian.com. Chanel bag, $4,900; 800-550-0005. Etro sweatshirt, $550; 212-317-9096.

RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D.

BUY NOW on NOW THAT YOU HAVE OUR OCTOBER ISSUE, GET READY TO SHOP IT. Look for the

icon next to an item in HARPER’S BAZAAR: It means the item is available

to buy on ShopBAZAAR.com—the online store brought to you by our editors. We’ve partnered with the best specialty boutiques, most coveted designers, and prestige

beauty brands to present the must-have fashion and beauty edit of the season, in a shopping destination that’s open around the clock and around the world.

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

B A

DRESS CODES

LOOK ONE

WHAT TO WEAR, WHERE? The pandemic has upended all of the usual wardrobe rules. Leandra Medine Cohen has some outfit ideas for our brave new working world. The night before I was to speak at my first conference, I spent two hours picking at my eyebrows, which is something I do when I’m trying to focus but know I’m getting nowhere. I was working on putting together an outfit that would convey a relatable professionalism for a crowd in pursuit of business advice but also illustrate what brought me there to start with: a contrarian and often uniquely informal approach to getting dressed. This time of year always brings the task of creating a professional spin on my personal style. Summer has ended, the sandals 80

are put away, and this sort of formality, a seasonal protocol, begins to possess our wardrobes. But after more than a year free from the guardrails of work’s dress codes, both stated and not—free from the guardrails of having to get dressed at all!—how do you go back to thinking about dressing for a formal meeting? A casual coffee? After-work drinks? Or yet another Zoom? I eventually hit upon a kind of dressing equation for any scenario: type of work plus functional outfitting needs plus unexpected kick. Here, I’ve concepted three suggestions. It’s basic math, so don’t sweat it.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TYLER JOE

ON YOUR FEET-FIT (left): comfortable footwear + top that hides stains + manageably uncomfortable stylish garment.

For an active day of errands or hours on the go, you’ll want to start with your shoes and work from there. Black sneakers are chameleonic, as easy to dress up as they are to run in. To think about what you’d wear with them, ask yourself, what would you wear with your favorite heels? A long dress? Fun socks and cropped jeans? Use

your answer as a compass to help you choose a garment that is comfortable enough to move around in but not so comfortable that you forget you’re dressed. I chose a bright-green perforated-leather miniskirt and a dark sweater. If you’re likely to get messy (i.e., if your day involves young children), the darker the top, the better; it’s easier to hide stains. And if all else fails, the skirt will distract. Bring a big tote with you too. To keep the heels close, why not?

Opposite page: Margaret Howell jumper, $345; margarethowell.co.uk. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini skirt, $1,170; neimanmarcus.com. Mansur Gavriel Pascucci tote, $395; mansurgavriel.com. Falke socks, $19; falke.com. Brooks Running sneakers, $130; brooksrunning.com.

CORPORATE COOL (below): compliant base + quirky loopholes. There are so many rules for corporate dressing and formal

meetings, so start with a nonnegotiable: a modest suit. I chose an uncontroversial charcoal-gray suit, the poster child of the most stringent dressing decrees. If the downside of a corporate dress code is that are so many rules, the upside is looking for those loopholes. So once you’ve established your compliant base, how can you start to color outside the lines? I chose a collarless cardigan in place of a button-down, with a statement belt over it. For shoes: In lieu of classic loafers or a pair of ambitious pumps, unassuming feminine sandals with a comfortable short heel produce an ironically surprising effect. HB Below: Officine Générale jacket, $655, and trousers, $420; officinegenerale.com. Leorosa cardigan, $440; leorosa-world.com. Isabel Marant belt, $1,020; isabelmarant.com. Gucci sandals, $850; gucci.com.

LOOK THREE

LOOK TWO INSPIRED INDEPENDENT (above): bottom you can sit in + a style risk. If you’re in a creative field, you’ll likely be in a coffee

shop or a studio or … another Zoom. I’d suggest a bottom that’s comfortable to sit in. Jeans work, but have you ever wrapped yourself in a warm blanket skirt? It’s like a hug for your legs that doesn’t divide them. I took this fringe-hem skirt and styled out from there. Then ask yourself, what’s a small style risk you’ve wanted to take but haven’t, mostly because you’ve been home with no one around to serve as a trustworthy soundboard? This is where, over a plain black T-shirt, a cropped leather jacket comes in, zipped up like it’s a top. The world is your oyster, and the walk to the watercooler—that is your runway, baby. Above: Veda jacket; thisisveda.com. Brunello Cucinelli skirt, $1,795; 212-334-1010. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello bag, $2,800; 212-980-2970. Dior Fine Jewelry bracelet (left); 800-929-DIOR. Roxanne Assoulin bracelet (center), $150–$180; roxanneassoulin.com. Jennifer Fisher cuff, $5,350; 888-255-0640. Shiloh Heritage boots, $850; shiloh-heritage.com. 1

THE PEOPLE AND IDEAS SHAPING THE CULTURE

The MIGHT of CORI BUSH The MISSOURI REPRESENTATIVE always had a deep DISTRUST of POLITICIANS. That’s why she had to BECOME ONE. “I REALLY FELT LIKE I WAS RUNNING,” Rep. Cori Bush says. She’s speaking to me from her home in St. Louis, long braids coiling down past her shoulders, her signature thick lashes framing her eyes as they widen while she sets the scene. She’s describing the moment this past summer when, as a sitting member of Congress, she decided to sleep on the steps of the U.S. Capitol. The House had just gone on recess despite the looming July 31 deadline of the eviction moratorium that had been put in place to help the estimated 11 million households that have been unable to make rent due to the pandemic. Legislators were leaving the Capitol, and the administration hadn’t signaled if it would extend the moratorium. Right-wing pundits were arguing that the moratorium itself was unconstitutional; social media and news broadcasts were flooded with accounts from supposed landlords who were spreading disinformation about the moratorium. If you were going off the odds of how things usually go in Washington, it seemed unlikely that anything would change. “I felt like I was running on the inside of myself,” Bush says. “It was just … go.” A first-term congresswoman representing St. Louis and part of its greater metropolitan area, Bush had already made a name for herself in national politics with her skill for breaking down topics and issues often framed as contentious or complicated in clear, moral terms. She’s a natural communicator, in the vein of great orators like Fannie Lou Hamer and Shirley Chisholm. Her voice is deep and sweet, with the musical swagger of the Black Midwest, a Joshua’s trumpet of an instrument that, when you’re listening to her wield it, feels as if it could cause walls to tumble down. Her flair and style (more on that later) and adeptness at social media mark her a clear member of the Squad—that group of progressive Democratic members of Congress that includes Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, Ayanna Pressley, Ilhan Omar, Rashida Tlaib, and Jamaal Bowman. But on July 30, the night she began her protest, many of her allies were gone, having left Washington for summer break. The national media was running stories on the end of the moratorium as if it were a done deal; within a day, attention was destined to move elsewhere. “My original thought was to do a sit-in on the floor,” she says, “but they were literally closing the doors. Nobody could get in. Eventually, it was just Alex [Ocasio-Cortez] and I, in the parking lot, outraged. She said, ‘Let’s just do an Instagram Live.’ Once we finished that, though, it felt like I couldn’t let it go. I’ve got to do something with this energy.” For Bush, the urgency came in part from personal experience. 82

She has been evicted three times in her life—the first, after a domestic-violence incident; later, as a young mother recovering from back-to-back pregnancies; and most recently in 2015, after she became active in the protests in Ferguson, Missouri, instigated by the police killing of Michael Brown. Bush has said in the past that she believes this eviction was politically motivated, that neighbors worried she would bring trouble to the block. That summer evening at the Capitol, though, “I turned to my chief of staff and I said, ‘Let’s just sleep out here. That’s what will be happening to the people affected,’ ” Bush says. “If I was home in St. Louis, I would have had the sleeping bags, the tents and chairs, all this stuff you need when you’re going to occupy space. In D.C., I didn’t have even a lawn chair. I said to my staff, ‘Let’s change clothes into something warm just in case it gets cold tonight.’ But that was it. We didn’t even have water.” Her staff made a Target run. Media attention immediately followed. It seemed everyone—from housing activists to centrist pundits to left-wing influencers—had an opinion, with most of them agreeing, for every reason up and down the political spectrum, that Bush’s protest wouldn’t work. But almost miraculously, for a brief moment, it appeared to do so. Bush stayed on the Capitol steps for five days and four nights, while other legislators, including House speaker Nancy Pelosi, pressured the Biden administration to extend the eviction moratorium. On the fifth day of Bush’s protest, August 3, a new 60-day moratorium was announced. And almost just as suddenly, the grace broke. Late on the evening of August 26, the Supreme Court delivered an unsigned opinion vacating the moratorium. It’s an example of the sudden reversals in policy and action in American politics at this moment. What is the American project in this third decade of the millennium? Are we a nation that measures its success on how well the government aids and protects the most vulnerable, or is the thing that makes America great how strongly our systems protect those in power? For Bush, the answer is clear. “We are in an unprecedented and ongoing crisis that demands compassionate solutions,” she says the morning after the SCOTUS decision. “We already know who is going to bear the brunt of this disastrous decision: Black and brown communities. We didn’t sleep on those steps just to give up now.” Legislative politics is a domain marked by painstakingly slow negotiations and choreographed rituals of agreement and debate. ➤ Bush moves at a different pace.

BY KAITLYN GREENIDGE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY XAVIER SCOTT MARSHALL

FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. HAIR: ANASTON RICHARDSON; MAKEUP: D. “CARTA” DAVIS. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS.

Zero + Maria Cornejo dress; savannahsantamonica.com. Roberto Coin hoop earrings; robertocoin.com.

PROFILE

It would be a mistake, though, to read Bush’s method as reckless or haphazard. At one point she tells me, “I’m not someone who’s seasoned in electoral politics, as far as holding office.” Her reluctance to claim that space is perhaps because she grew up so close to it. Her father held a number of political offices throughout her childhood. “We started out on a street in St. Louis that’s so notorious, it’s not even there anymore,” she says. The cul-de-sac that residents called “the Horseshoe” had a crime rate so high, the city of St. Louis took over, tore down all the homes, and filled in the entire space with grass. Her family left when she was still young, settling in suburban Northwoods, a predominantly white community at the time, though Bush remembers their street having numerous Black families. Her father, Errol Bush, was able to build a middle-class life for his family; he worked as a meatcutter at a local supermarket, at a wage that allowed him to buy his home—where he still lives—and send his children to private schools. In 1984, he joined Jesse Jackson’s campaign for the Democratic presidential nomination. Encouraged by what he experienced with the Rainbow Coalition, he entered local politics. He started out as president of Cori’s private Catholic school’s PTA and worked his way up to mayor. Currently, he’s an alderman for the city. “I was one of his campaign workers,” Rep. Bush says. “I would knock on doors. I would answer calls. By the time I was 16, I had worked every part of a campaign.” “I took Cori with me because people were more likely to open the door to a cute little girl,” Errol Bush explains. “She’d say, ‘Open up. My daddy wants to talk to you.’ ” His daughter says, “I saw my dad give so much. I saw the corruption and the grief that would just come at him, all the lies and the negativity. Why would somebody volunteer for this?” She was certain she would never be a politician. And then came Ferguson. When the Ferguson uprising began in 2014, Bush was 38 years old, the single mother of a son and a daughter who had worked hard to improve her family’s life by entering nursing school in her late 20s and working her way into a higher paying job. Both her grandmothers were nurses; they wore their “whites,” as she explains it. She volunteered as a candy striper in high school, but life took over and she found herself working in a day-care center, eventually with two kids to support. A stellar employee, she was regularly promoted, until one day her boss explained she had reached the salary cap. No matter how hard she worked, she would never make more than $10.50 an hour. Recognizing Bush’s potential, her boss encouraged her to apply to nursing school. “Usually, it takes a few years to get in. I applied in June and was accepted for that fall,” says Bush. “Once I graduated and became a nurse, life changed. My next job, I was making $19.50 an hour. Within one year I was promoted, and I went to making $32.81, or something like that, an hour. And having health insurance that didn’t cost me a lot. Health insurance, I think, was $121 for me and my two kids.” 84

The sums of money Bush describes are both life-changing and not that much in the understanding of household budgets most politicians talk about. It’s a trajectory that serves as a microcosm of life in post-civil-rights America—the promise of upward class mobility, allegedly now open to all, but also the precarious stakes most people have in maintaining a life in the middle class. In the 1980s, Errol Bush could buy a home and pay for an education for his children on a meatcutter’s salary. A generation later, Cori Bush worked a similar middle-class job, as a day-care provider, but found only precarity and housing instability. Ferguson, momentarily, felt like a disruption of all of those narratives—that to make communities safer, you should spend most of your budget on police; that the United States was headed toward a post-racial future; that Americans didn’t need to protest in the street for anything anymore. Bush, with her training as a nurse, quickly volunteered to be a street medic. “During Ferguson,” her father tells me, “I turned on the news and this whole block was burning. Suddenly there was a flash across the screen and it was Cori. She was out there in front of the tanks and the fire trucks. I couldn’t believe it. I tried to call her, but she wasn’t picking up her phone. I tried to go down there, but everything was blocked off. All I could do was pray for her.” He knew, in that moment, a deep reckoning was upon his family. Her leadership skills were evident from the start. As the

Rep. Cori Bush (center), joined by congressional staffers and activists, outside of the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C.

“It’s our OBLIGATION as LAWMAKERS to do the WORK that SAVES LIVES— no matter how CHALLENGING that WORK might be.” B

OPPOSITE PAGE: STEFANI REYNOLDS/BLOOMBERG VIA GETTY IMAGES.

Christopher John Rogers shirt and skirt; net-a-porter.com. Roberto Coin hoop earrings; robertocoin.com. Christian Louboutin pumps; christianlouboutin.com.

uprising came to a close, a fellow organizer, Muhiyidin Moye, who has since been murdered, asked her to consider running for one of Missouri’s U.S. Senate seats. She remembers him saying, “You have a voice. You need to run.” She turned him down, but he kept asking. As she spoke to him, she remembered what she had seen during the uprising. During a protest, marching with her son, she lost track of him in the crowds. “I just thought, He could be another hashtag,” she said. “I thought, What are you doing to make his world better? The more I said no, the more this yes rose up inside of me.” She ended up running for office three times, finally narrowly winning the Democratic primary in Missouri’s First District in August 2020 (and winning the general in November). She was up against an incumbent, Rep. William Lacy Clay Jr., whose family had held the seat since 1969, when his father took office. Supported by newly powerful progressive organizations like the Justice Democrats, Bush’s campaign picked up endorsements from political superstars like Bernie Sanders. Because of her rising profile, Bush was subject to increasing attacks. She spoke about it often, noting on Twitter, “People have commented on everything from my clothing, to my hair, to my hips, to my AAVE. I am a Black woman and I am proud of it. I am the people I serve, and I’m bringing that to Congress.” Throughout the general election, she posted videos of herself in the clothes she proudly wore: formfitting dresses, leggings, and tall boots. Her father tells me that people in the neighborhood now regularly drop off dresses, jewelry, and shoes for her to wear in Washington. “They say, ‘We want her to look her best. She’s representing us.’ ” 1

But the attacks against her have been more substantive as well, most notably on her unequivocal stance to defund police departments, even as she represents the city that has the highest murder rate in the country—and the highest rate of police killings. Of this, she says, “Defunding the police means that rather than investing more money in militarized policing, we invest in the policies and programs that meet people’s needs and make communities safe: guaranteed housing, health care, quality education, livable wages, and good jobs. It does not mean that when you call for help, no one will be there to respond. It means making sure that the right professionals are responding to the right calls. I will do everything in my power to create communities that are safe for everyone. It’s our obligation as lawmakers to do the work that saves lives—no matter how challenging that work might be.” Her stance has led to criticism that she’s hurting the prospects of Democrats in swing districts. In response, Bush says, “Let’s come up with another way to make sure that we get them elected. Don’t ask me to tone it down, because toning it down has been what has allowed us to be where we are right now.” Right now, of course, is the political landscape Bush walked into in 2021. In January, her term began with the attempted coup by right-wing extremist supporters of President Trump on January 6. Bush herself introduced a resolution to expel those Republican members of Congress who sought to overturn the election and helped incite the attack. It is a moment of profound disunity that some, including President Biden, argue can be healed (Continued on page 148) by active bipartisanship. 85

ARTWORK BY K YOUNG

K YOUNG, DOUBLE FIGURE, 2019; PHOTOGRAPHIC PAPER COLLAGE; 20 x 26.25 CM; © K YOUNG COLLAGE; IMAGE COURTESY K YOUNG COLLAGE AND THE RAVESTIJN GALLERY, AMSTERDAM

ESSAY

DRESSING in LIMBO For LAIA GARCIA-FURTADO, FASHION was always a SOURCE of JOY. But when the PANDEMIC and a MISCARRIAGE uprooted her sense of self and style, WHAT to WEAR became a larger, more PROFOUND QUESTION. I GOT MARRIED IN THE SUMMER OF 2019, and my husband and I saved all year for a honeymoon the following summer that would take us to Morocco, Portugal, and Spain. We would see the desert and drink lots of wine. I would buy too many swimsuits, giant scarves to wear as pareos, and at least one absolutely ridiculous bucket hat. We would also try to get pregnant. We thought it would be funny because that’s what you’re supposed to do! It didn’t take long before we realized the honeymoon was not going to happen, so then we decided to try to make a quarantine baby. Trying to get pregnant is believing every month you may be pregnant. Suddenly my daily trawling through TheRealReal became slightly complicated: Should I buy a pair of pants that I would likely wear only a few times (if at all; I was not wearing pants in lockdown)? Or should I buy oversize silhouettes that I could wear when I became pregnant? Or is buying pregnancy clothes before you are actually pregnant a psychotic and cursed thing to do? I think about clothes a lot. For me, fashion has always been about self-expression. Even in lockdown, I was trying to figure out what my clothes—Skims bralettes, track pants—said about me (an obsession with ’90s sporty girls). I have written about fashion most of my life, and when the pandemic brought the world to a stop, I was working as the features director at a thick, glossy art and fashion biannual, covering the runway collections in Paris. I was surrounded by so much beauty and inspiration (and a bit of disposable income), and my style was finally getting closer to the idealized version of myself that lived in my head. For a little while, I felt like a woman who had somehow managed to “have it all.” In October, I found out I was pregnant. Though we had been “trying,” it still came as a shock, which gave way to an enveloping feeling of joy. Then, a question: What would pregnant me look like? I would lean in to bold colored dresses from Pleats Please by Issey Miyake, oversize button-down shirts paired with elastic-

WEARING SOMETHING FOREVER implies having the SAME BODY FOREVER, and in less than a year MY SENSE of what could be FOREVER had CHANGED. 1

waist slim trousers from the Row, and, for formal occasions, vintage kitten-heeled Manolos. I was 36 years old, and this would be the first step into my next phase of adult dressing. After all, when reading those “What to wear at every age” articles in fashion magazines like this one, I always found myself drawn to the advice for women in their 40s. I was ready! In November, I went to the doctor for a routine 10-week check-in and found out there was no longer a heartbeat. I knew miscarriages are not uncommon, and I knew they are especially common in the first 12 weeks of pregnancy, and yet I was not prepared for the grief, the feeling of desolation, and the sense that my body was suddenly somehow a separate entity from myself. Later that week, I was laid off from my job. When it rains, it pours. Meanwhile, somewhere between the initial lockdown, the pregnancy, and the miscarriage, I had gained weight. My clothes no longer fit me. The number-one fashion rule is to invest in classic pieces you can wear forever. But wearing something forever implies having the same body forever, and in less than a year my sense of what could be forever had changed. The doctor said the important thing was that we knew I could get pregnant, that the best way to move on was to get pregnant again. And so with my body in limbo, in a year in limbo, I started trying again. I realized I needed to accept myself the way I was at that moment. So what if I no longer fit into clothes I got in my 20s? They had served me well, and now they needed to go. I got rid of things that didn’t fit me and, with them, the notion that once the world went “back to normal” and I lost all the weight I had gained, they would fit again. It was a lie and I knew it. Fashion brings me joy, and what’s the point of keeping things around that would make me depressed? Goodbye to the beautiful pair of blue wool flared trousers from the Row that made even the rattiest T-shirt seem like couture, goodbye to the Toga skirt with a silk scarf inset, and goodbye to the Christopher Kane body-con dress with the printed gorilla splashed across the chest. I bought a few things that have gotten me through this time, including a Chopova Lowena skirt that is absolutely the greatest item of clothing I’ve ever owned in my life and a pair of Margiela Tabi Mary Jane loafers that make everything look cool. I know that they may not be mine forever, but I am happy that for now they help me feel like myself. In a year when my sense of self has felt like it was scrambled beyond recognition, I’ve started to gather the blocks that will make up whatever newer, hopefully better version of myself awaits—as a mother, or as a woman who is now kinder to her body and herself. HB 87

AS TOLD TO

Thirty years ago, she helped usher in a NEW ERA in the FIGHT AGAINST GENDER VIOLENCE. Her work, she says, is FAR FROM OVER. In 1991, Anita Hill testified before the Senate Judiciary Committee about the sexual harassment she’d endured while working as an aide to then–Supreme Court nominee Clarence Thomas at the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission. At the time, she was doubted, dismissed, and relentlessly ridiculed in the press; Thomas was later confirmed, and he sits on the court to this day. Since then, Hill has dedicated her life to making sure no voice is ever silenced again. Her new book, Believing: Our Thirty-Year Journey to End Gender Violence (Viking) , serves as an urgent call to arms and details her ongoing efforts to effect real change as a legal scholar, professor, and advocate. Here, she talks to Harper’s Bazaar senior features editor Ariana Marsh about how that cause has advanced over the past three decades, as well as the crucial work that still needs to be done.

IT’S BEEN 30 YEARS since I testified against Clarence Thomas. I’m understandably disappointed at the lack of progress when it comes to the fight against gender-based violence, but I’m quite encouraged that there is a path forward. We’ve got new tools, we’ve got new information, and we also have, I believe, a real passion out there among many people to fight and do better. After my testimony, women stepped up in record numbers to file sexual-harassment complaints and to run for office. What occurred to me then was that what we were dealing with was not an individual problem but a systemic one. W hen Dr. Christine Blasey Ford testified against Brett Kavanaugh in 2018, it validated that idea. I had really hoped for Kavanaugh’s confirmation hearing to not be a repeat of 1991, but of course, once again, I was disappointed and frustrated. The system doesn’t work. And that’s why we need to change it. When I testified, the system really held me out for public ridicule. There was nobody in the Senate who was helping once I was back home, and I think that’s the same for Dr. Ford. She has received threats for challenging the status quo. She and I were fortunate in that we both had a wonderful support system including family, colleagues, and strangers. But not everyone has that. One of the gifts of the #MeToo movement was that it raised the issue of why it’s important for women to be believed. It allowed other survivors to hear that they were not alone, that solidarity is important. It also exposed the lie that the problem is just a few bad apples. #MeToo helped create cultural change. It revealed information that advocates, activist groups, and researchers can use to create processes for getting people to come forward, raise a complaint, and be heard—for getting our leaders in schools, workplaces, and government to start examining their own processes with scrutiny. But it was not designed to create legislative change. 88

I have spoken with Dr. Ford, and one of the things that stands out is how she so sincerely wants to change the process for those people who have experienced harassment and gender violence to come forward in any situation. Complainants need to know what an investigation is going to look like, who they can talk to, what they can expect, and what the potential outcomes might be. Right now, under most circumstances, there are rules that require an individual to prove their case even before they have a chance to speak. That’s how big the cultural presumptions are against you, and those are built into our systems. We need to be able to have investigations into gender violence that are thorough and impartial. The data is clear: Women of color are more likely to be victimized by gender-based violence. And yet the systems that we have in place operate based on racial and gender bias. On top of that, you can add another layer of gender identity; the numbers of violent acts against trans women are appalling. What I hear over and over again is that people who bring a sexual-violence complaint to the police end up feeling like they’re the ones who have committed some kind of crime. In the criminal-justice system, we know that there are backlogs of rape kits that have not been processed. And what does that say to a victim? It says, “We don’t take this seriously enough to investigate it at the same rate that we investigate other crimes.” The numbers tell you how difficult it is to get a prosecution. Think about what happened with Bill Cosby and the highest court in Pennsylvania. Even after there was a prosecution, [the conviction] was reversed because a district attorney had made a deal not to prosecute him and the court honored that deal. Prevention is also crucial, especially in educational facilities. I’m shocked by the amount of violence occurring in K–12 schools, and I’m also quite shocked that some institutions are denying responsibility. At the university level, whether we’re parents or donors, we’ve got to hold institutions accountable for the problems that are occurring on campuses. Think about what happened at Ohio State and Michigan State regarding their complicity with the sexual abuse that Dr. Richard Strauss and Dr. Larry Nassar committed against students. These are huge academic institutions, and these problems continue to exist. It’s crucial that we undo the damage done by the Supreme Court’s 2020 ruling on United States v. Morrison, which gutted sections of the Violence Against Women Act. The court ruled that Congress had no authority to enact certain protections based on a faulty conclusion that violence against women had no substantial effect on interstate commerce. The (Continued on page 148)

PHOTOGRAPH BY CAMILA FALQUEZ

FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. HAIR AND MAKEUP: KELLEY QUAN FOR MAKE UP FOR EVER; PRODUCTION: RANDOM PRODUCTIONS. SPECIAL THANKS TO BRANDEIS UNIVERSITY

ANITA HILL Won’t Back Down

“One of the gifts of the #METOO MOVEMENT was that it raised the issue of why it’s IMPORTANT for WOMEN to be BELIEVED.”

Giorgio Armani coat, $3,695, shirt, $1,950, and trousers, $1,195; armani.com. Bulgari B.zero1 earrings, $3,100; bulgari.com.

EDITED BY ALISON S. COHN

THIS PAGE, BOTTOM: COURTESY BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT (ALL COURTESY): GIORGIO ARMANI; BULGARI; ANNA CATALANO

GIVING BACK, the ITALIAN WAY

From top: Brunello Cucinelli in his office; Cucinelli (center) at the vaccination site in the Park of Beauty on the company’s Solomeo, Italy, campus

PHOTOGRAPH BY FRANCESCO BRIGIDA

The FASHION INDUSTRY in ITALY has always been CLOSE-KNIT and FAMILIAL, with a deep connection to the COUNTRY and its PEOPLE. But as THE PANDEMIC revealed, those TIES are about MORE than CLOTHES. T H E PA R K O F B E AU T Y , B r u n e l l o Cucinelli’s Edenic 250-acre redevelopment project in the valley surrounding his Solomeo, Italy, headquarters, features a youth soccer stadium, hiking trails, lush vineyards, golden wheat fields, and silvery expanses of alfalfa leading to a travertine exedra with the inscription “Tribute to Human Dignity.” And this April, it also came to host a vaccination site that has doled out more than 30,000 Pfizer courses. “It’s in difficult moments that you need to be creative,” Cucinelli says. When northern Italy became a Covid19 epicenter in February 2020, he was uniquely positioned to help his local community. Cucinelli, whose 100-year-old father, Umberto, labored as a farmer and later as a cement-plant worker, has spent the past four decades transforming the Umbrian hamlet two hours north of Rome into a vibrant center of cashmere production that now employs most of its residents. “I remember asking, ‘Dad, what was the best day of your life?’ ” Cucinelli recalls. “He said May 8, 1945, because that’s when they announced the end of the war. But I have to say the best day of my life was November 9, 2020, when we heard the news that Pfizer had developed a successful vaccine candidate.”

Even before Italy went into a two-month lockdown in March of last year, Cucinelli had set up his own test-and-trace corps, which visited the homes of symptomatic employees to perform tests on all family members and delivered food and supplies to those required to self-isolate. According to Cucinelli, the company has seen only 26 positives among its local staff of 1,200, as of this writing. He also donated unsold merchandise to charities globally through the Brunello Cucinelli for Humanity program and worked with contacts in China to source 600,000 masks and 11 ventilators for the regional hospital in Perugia. “Now is the time for a new social contract,” Cucinelli says. “I think we need to rediscover a balance between profits and giving back. This pandemic has reaffirmed our belief in not turning our back to humanity.”

ucinelli has always given back to his community. But the Covid-19 crisis galvanized the entire Italian fashion industry into urgent action, with houses and companies using their resources and connections to help manufacture PPE, source ventilators, and set up vaccination centers. In fact, nearly two years into the pandemic, many of them have stepped up to offer ongoing humanitarian aid and support

for medical researchers fighting the virus. “I am a man of decision and action,” says Giorgio Armani, who was the first designer to stream his show without an audience, on February 23, 2020, two days after several Covid-19 cases were detected in a small town near Milan. “I have never been one to take my time talking about things when it is clear that steps need to be taken. So when I saw what was happening, I couldn’t sit back; I had to do something. And fast.” Shortly after Italy went on lockdown, Armani made a €2,000,000 ($2,200,000) donation to hospitals in Milan, Rome, Bergamo, Piacenza, and Versilia, enabling them to make urgent purchases of ventilators and PPE. The Armani Group also kept its Italian production plants open during the country’s lockdown, producing more than 30,000 medical overalls for distribution to hospitals and health facilities. The lights stayed on at one of Prada’s domestic factories as well; it manufactured 80,000 medical overalls and 110,000 masks. Co-CEOs Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli and then-chairman Carlo Mazzi made a donation to add six ICU units at three Milan hospitals. Last October, the house also raised more than $500,000 for the UNESCO Covid-19 Global Education Coalition through (Continued on page 148)

Left: Sandra Nakandakari, a Bulgari Women & Science

Above: A Giorgio Armani billboard in Milan thanks

fellow, works in her lab at the Rockefeller University.

health-care workers for their service.

Above: A Prada factory worker sews masks.

TEXT BY ALISON S. COHN

IN FOCUS

HAIR: ELIOT MCQUEEN FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL; MAKEUP: MATTIE WHITE FOR THE NUE CO.

JACOB COLLIER

“There’s so much MUSIC in my HEAD ALL the time, it’s quite HARD to TURN it OFF.”

This page: JW Anderson jacket, $4,380, and trousers; jwanderson.com. Crocs, Collier’s own. Opposite page: The Row coat, $2,890; therow.com. Wales Bonner shirt, $530, and tank dress, $615; walesbonner.net.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GABBY LAURENT / STYLING BY KELLY-ANN HUGHES

For the prodigal 27-year-old MULTIINSTRUMENTALIST, making MUSIC is all about the ELEMENT of SURPRISE JACOB COLLIER’S RISE TO FAME is a very modern tale, which is to say the internet had a lot to do with it. In 2013, at 19 years old, he arranged and performed a cover of Stevie Wonder’s “Don’t You Worry ’Bout a Thing” and uploaded it to YouTube. Instead of collaborating with other musicians, Collier sang the lead, bass, baritone, tenor, alto, and soprano vocals, layering them on top of one another, harmonizing with himself. (“Chords were really like my first crush,” he says.) He also played 16 instruments on the track, including piano, double bass, and drums. The result has been viewed more than five million times. Since then, the British-born Collier has won five Grammy awards and been nominated for both Album of the Year and Best R&B Performance, establishing himself as a genre-bending multidimensional talent. “There’s so much music in my head all the time, it’s quite hard to turn it off,” Collier says. “It can be a very weird place to live.”

ow 27, Collier says his goal has always been to “get the ideas as good as I could possibly get them … to deepen my imagination to the max.” In 2014, legendary producer Quincy Jones caught wind

of the boy wonder and signed him to his management company. Collier booked his first official gig opening for Herbie Hancock and Chick Corea at the Montreux Jazz Festival in Switzerland in 2015, and after the show, he remembers, “things started to move. And doors started to open.”

n the summer of 2016, Collier released In My Room—a nod to both the Beach Boys song and the literal room where he spent his youth making music. It was followed by 250-plus concerts around the world, appearances on Jimmy Kimmel Live! and NPR’s Tiny Desk, and a multivolume album, Djesse, the third installment of which was released last year. (He’s currently working on the fourth.) “I think the one thing I’m very grateful for is that it was always quite a slow burn for me,” he says of his career so far. “There wasn’t one moment overnight when I wrote a hit and suddenly everyone knew the song. I think if that had happened, it would have been much harder to figure out who I was in the world.” Collier’s musicianship is formidable. He has collaborated with SZA, Ty Dolla $ign, and Mahalia, and he played with Chris Martin last year during an Instagram Live jam session. It’s not uncommon to see praise from performers across a wildly disparate range of genres, from Hancock to Lizzo to David Crosby, in the comments section of the same platform.

ollier “grew up into a world of music,” he says of his childhood in North London. He was raised alongside two younger sisters by his mom, Suzie—a violinist, teacher, and conductor herself. “I used to press play on the CD player and wonder what would come out,” Collier remembers. It could have been Beck, Björk, Bobby McFerrin, or Stravinsky. “In my mind, as a child, it was all part of the same language,” he says. “There was no separation for me.” As a teen, he became obsessed with different instruments and fell in love with jazz, the source of “a lot of my harmonic fascination,” he says. He brought this love to arranging classic tunes, and “gradually arrangements evolved into songs and songwriting, and then those evolved into albums.” He describes his process as “chucking a bunch of ideas into a pot” to make a “chemical reaction” and resists labels or categorization. “I feel like I could write orchestral music, or I could drop a hip-hop album, or I could go and whip up a solo piano record or collaborate with a bunch of pop hard-hitters,” he says. “It’s kind of all welcome.” (He names Kendrick Lamar, Rosalía, and D’Angelo among his dream collaborators.) Though if there is one through line to Collier’s work, it’s the feeling of earnest joy that radiates from it. “I’ve never taken myself too seriously,” Collier says. “The moment I say, ‘If you don’t like me, it’s bad,’ then I’ve lost the plot. Life is so fleeting. You have to take everything with a pinch of salt and say, ‘God, it’s so great to be here.’ ” HB

TEXT BY ANDREA CUTTLER

4KINSHIP New Mexico–based Diné designer Amy Denet Deal’s line of hand-dyed upcycled vintage pieces helps support mutual-aid projects on the Navajo Nation as well as intertribal initiatives. She is also leading fundraising efforts to build a safe and inclusive public skate park for Diné youth.

CLOSED X LEANDRA MEDINE COHEN Each of the six considered pieces in this denim-heavy capsule wardrobe features surprising touches like pearl buttons, glass beads, and velvet embellishments.

ROAR!: A COLLECTION OF MIGHTY WOMEN, BY ASHLEY LONGSHORE The artist’s vibrant new book collects portraits of 60 culturally significant women, such as Anita Hill, Beyoncé, Princess Diana, and Frida Kahlo, many of which were included in a 2019 exhibition hosted at Diane von Furstenberg’s flagship store in New York, and opens with an introduction by the designer. (Rizzoli)

I LOVE YOU BUT I’VE CHOSEN DARKNESS, BY CLAIRE VAYE WATKINS An exploration of grief, freedom, and madness, Watkins’s novel follows a new mother with postpartum depression as she travels to Reno for work and ends up on a cathartic spree through the Mojave Desert. “Hitting the road allows her to scramble the identities she struggles with,” says the author. “She becomes a lover to people she’s not married to, a parent to people she didn’t birth.” (Riverhead Books) BAD FAT BLACK GIRL: NOTES FROM A TRAP FEMINIST, BY SESALI BOWEN Part memoir, part cultural analysis, Bowen’s debut recounts her rise in hip-hop journalism and coining of the term “trap feminism.” “It’s a framework to interrogate how gender and sexuality are reflected in trap music,” she explains. “The book addresses body image, lawlessness, confidence, money, sex, and relationships, all from the perspective of a fat, queer, hood Black girl from Chicago.” (Amistad)

OLIVER PEOPLES X BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Melding Italian elegance and California ease, the five eyewear styles in Brunello Cucinelli’s first-ever collaboration include refined details like horninlayed frames and discreetly engraved logos on the temple tips. FROM TOP: 4KINSHIP MILITARY FLYSUIT, $350; 4KINSHIP.COM. CLOSED X LEANDRA MEDINE COHEN SHIRT, $320; CLOSED.COM. OLIVER PEOPLES X BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SUNGLASSES, $553; 212-925-5400.

WE ARE NOT LIKE THEM, BY CHRISTINE PRIDE AND JO PIAZZA Told from alternating perspectives, this joint effort by Pride and Piazza centers on the relationship between two childhood friends, one Black and one white, and how a tragic incident puts their bond to the ultimate test. “It tackles the difficult subject of a police-involved shooting of a Black teenager,” says Pride. “Our two main characters are intimately entangled in the case,” adds Piazza. (Atria Books) HB

TEXT BY ALISON S. COHN AND ARIANA MARSH

FASHION AND CULTURE

by invitation | tipsntrends, inc | info@tipsntrends.com

THE ART AND SCIENCE OF LOOKING AND FEELING YOUR BEST

DOUBLE Duty When the PANDEMIC hit, old MAKEUP ROUTINES went OUT the WINDOW. In their place: MAKEUP that DOES MORE. 1

PHOTOGRAPH BY HORACIO SALINAS

MULTITASKING BEAUTY

f you’ve pared down your beauty routine since the pandemic, you’re not alone. Seventy-one percent of American women reported wearing less makeup due to Covid-19 lifestyle changes, according to a 2020 report by market-research firm NPD Group. “After being at home for so long, people are looking for a minimalist yet multitasking approach, not a 17-step routine,” says Diarrha N’Diaye-Mbaye, founder of beauty brand Ami Colé, which launched this past spring. As a result, makeup and skin care are starting to blur together, and the result is more comfortable color. Every product here, from the new lightweight serum foundations (also known as “skin tints”) to creamy nourishing lip colors (that double as blush), can be applied in a flash.

CHEEK COLOR Save time with skin-care-filled blushes in pots and sticks or with built-in applicators for on-the-go touch-ups. Merit, another line born in the pandemic, was created with the five-minute face in mind—particularly with its Flush Balm (3; $28), which imparts color with sheen (courtesy of vitamin E). Some other user-friendly formulas include Tata Harper Skincare Vitamin-Infused Cream Blush (1, $42; shopBAZAAR.com. ), which was made to go on lids and lips; Perricone MD No Makeup Blush (2; $35), which is easy to swipe across the face sans brush; and Victoria Beckham Beauty Cheeky Posh (4; $40), which is enriched with jojoba esters.

10.

12. 3. 13.

14.

4. UNDER-EYE SOLUTIONS Too busy to apply concealer? Luckily, tinted creams and serums revive the under-eyes in one step with skin-loving properties. With an added bonus of SPF 35, Colorescience Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy (5; $74) covers bags while addressing fine lines with actives. Tatcha the Pearl (6; $48) reflects light to mimic concealer. Filled with powerhouse ingredients like vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, Trinny London BFF Eye (7; $34.50) depuffs as you apply pigment, thanks to its cooling tip, and Milk Makeup Sunshine Under Eye Tint + Brighten (8; $28) has caffeine to help temporarily reduce the look of dark circles.

15.

5. 6.

SKIN TINTS Huda Kattan, founder of Huda Beauty, was once the face of a fullcoverage look, but her new GloWish range is all about a lighter touch. One of the star products is Multidew Skin Tint (15; $37), which hydrates with squalene and rose oil. Other brands are getting on board with the movement toward sheer, moisturizing coverage. Check out Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint (9; $48), YSL Beauty Nu Bare Look Tint (10; $38), Stila Tinted Moisturizer Skin Balm (11; $32), Clinique Even Better Clinical Serum Foundation SPF 25 (12; $42), Ami Colé Skin-Enhancing Tint (13; $32), and L’Oréal Paris True Match Nude Hyaluronic Tinted Serum (14; $19.99).

BY KATIE INTNER

17.

16.

20.

19.

JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D.

= BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

18.

LIGHT WORKERS A luminizer seems like a superfluous product, but it can actually be a workhorse in your beauty wardrobe. “It diffuses what you may consider to be a flaw,” says makeup artist Bobbi Brown about Miracle Balm (16; $38), the star product from her new line, Jones Road. “With the right amount of moisture and tint, it blends away any perceived imperfection and still leaves skin looking like skin.” While Miracle Balm comes in six shades, consider Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops (19; $36), which imparts a bronzy sheen while delivering vitamin F and antioxidant-rich oils to help defend from pollution, and Pai the Impossible Glow (20; $39), a gold-tone liquid that bathes skin in hyaluronic acid and sea kelp. We love adding these tawny shades on the cheekbones to add warmth. If you want an all-over radiance, mix Lip Bar Skin Glow Highlighting Skin Serum (17; $16) or Saie Glowy Super Gel (18; $25) into your moisturizer, or even layer one on top. Both contain vitamin C and oils to nourish and brighten skin.

EASY EYES Create a complete eye look in two minutes or less with products that pamper this delicate area. Sisley Phyto-Eye Twist (21; $53) can be used as a shadow or liner and contains green tea to protect the lids. Kosas 10-Second Eyeshadow (24; $28) is enriched with orange-flower water and jojoba oil and is easy to paint on. Even mascaras are getting smarter. Grande Cosmetics GrandeFanatic (22; $25) conditions and creates a long-lasting curl, while Talika Lipocils Mascara (23; $41) strengthens and helps grow lashes.

25. 26.

27. 28.

21.

22.

29.

23.

24.

LIP SLICK Whether it’s in a gloss, a balm, or a palette, each of these lip colors has built-in skin care (think glycerin and nourishing oils). Even better, they work on the lids and cheeks as well, saving you time and shelf space. “Applying lip gloss to the cheeks adds a monochromatic look to the face, making you look awake and feel presentable,” Brown explains. A major upgrade from your lip balm, Tower 28 BeachPlease Lip + Cheek Cream Blush (28; $20) is an antioxidant-filled cream-balm hybrid without the stickiness balms typically leave behind. For seriously plumper-looking lips, try Charlotte Tilbury Collagen Lip Bath Gloss (25; $35); it adds shine and fullness in one step. If you gravitate more toward sheer formulas, try Uoma by Sharon C It’s Complicated Glossy Lip Tint + Oil + Gloss (26; $7); it doubles down on hydration with avocado oil and hyaluronic acid and delivers a heavenly cooling effect. All in the convenience of a palette, Westman Atelier Lip Suede in Les Rouges (27, $85; shopBAZAAR.com. ) allows for endless cheek- and lip-color options. (The cherry oil gives it a nice slip.) With the perfect amount of pigment, Byredo Colour Stick (29; $30) is sheer but buildable and can be worn anywhere on the face. HB 99

FOCUS ON EYES

How to LOOK More AWAKE LESS REST and MORE SCREEN TIME is a recipe for SLEEPY EYES. Luckily, there have never been more TREATMENTS and PRODUCTS to BRIGHTEN and TIGHTEN the AREA. his year, when the American Academy of Sleep Medicine (AASM) surveyed over 2,000 American adults on their sleep patterns, more than half reported sleep disturbances, or what the AASM is calling “Covid-somnia.” The eyes tell the story: People are tired of looking tired, says Chaneve Jeanniton, an oculofacial plastic surgeon and founder of Brooklyn Face & Eye in New York. “They don’t want to look like they’ve gotten work done. They just want a pick-me-up.” During 2020, according to the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 56 percent of surgeons said more patients wanted eyelid procedures in order to look less tired. The good news: There’s a multitude of ways to refresh your eyes. Here, we lay out the options.

UNDERSTAND THE ANATOMY The truth is, the skin around our eyes ages more quickly than the rest of our face. “There’s more wear and tear in that area because it’s the epicenter of all our expressions,” says Jeanniton. An eye lift (also known as a blepharoplasty) can be performed in the office while under local anesthesia and requires trimming excess skin, muscle, and fat from the crease of the upper or lower eyelid that contributes to droopy eyes or under-eye bags, respectively. “This creates a crisper contour and makes your eyes appear bigger and brighter,” says Jeanniton. Today, many patients don’t wait until their 50s or 60s to consider a blepharoplasty; Jeanniton sees patients in their 30s and 40s opting for this procedure

over filler, simply because a blepharoplasty ($9,000–$16,000 for the upper and lower eyelids) lasts longer, up to 15 years to be exact. Side effects include a few days of swelling and bruising and, rarely, infection. ADD VOLUME Botox is used to correct wrinkles, fine lines, and crepiness around the eye area, but it does nothing to address volume. Hyaluronic acid (HA) injections can help fill out those deep-set hollows

People “DON’T WANT to look like they’ve gotten WORK DONE,” says Dr. Chaneve Jeanniton. “They just WANT a little PICK-ME-UP.” that create shadows and make eyes look sunken. Voluma ($900 and up) is one of the longer lasting fillers, delivering results for one to two years, versus other HA fillers, which last six months on average. (The good thing about HA injections is that they can be dissolved if you don’t get your desired result.) “When injected beneath the fat pad under the eye, hyaluronic acid supports the area, so it looks smoother and reflects the light more evenly,” says Patricia Wexler, a New York dermatological surgeon. As a result, you won’t need as much concealer, she says. Even if the eyes are your focus, experts agree that adding

filler to the cheeks and temples as well can help create balance. Expect bruising and swelling, as you would with a blepharoplasty. And while extremely rare, there is a risk of blindness if the needle is injected into a blood vessel, so it’s important to see an experienced doctor who does injections in the eye area regularly. BOOST YOUR COLLAGEN As we age, we naturally lose collagen, the protein that gives skin its bounce, says Wexler. No amount of face cream can build back collagen like a laser or ultrasound treatment can. Both create controlled damage, spurring on the development of new collagen, which creates tighter skin with improved tone and texture. While they can be painful, the latest treatments hurt far less than their predecessors, have zero downtime, and take less than an hour. The new kid on the block is Sofwave, which uses ultrasound heat to stimulate a healing response and in turn firm and lift the skin ($1,800–$4,000). “It’s the next generation of go-to ultrasound treatments like Ultherapy, but it’s comfortable and safe for all skin tones,” Jeanniton explains. The result builds over three months and typically lasts about a year. It also works wonders on the brow to open up the eye area, she adds. Another option: ThermiSmooth, which uses radio-frequency energy to tighten the skin and stimulate collagen under the eye, decreasing puffiness, bags, and dark circles. “It’s Spanx for the eyes,” says Wexler, who recommends three or four sessions every two to three weeks to see results ($825 each). HB

WIDE AWAKE It’s rare that a topical product mimics an in-office procedure, but a new prescription eye drop, Upneeq, is making a big splash in the market as the nonsurgical alternative to a blepharoplasty. “The results from Upneeq are amazing,” says Wexler. “It means patients with ptosis [a.k.a. droopy lids] don’t have to resort to surgery.” This new FDA-approved eye drop stimulates the muscle underneath the lid to give eyes a lift in as little as five minutes. “Even if you haven’t been diagnosed with ptosis, it makes the eyes stand out so that you look more awake,” says Wendy W. Lee, a Miami-based ophthalmic plastic and reconstructive surgeon. Within two hours of using the drops, you’ll see maximum effects, which can last six hours or more. 100

BY KATIE INTNER

CENTER: MATALLANA/ART PARTNER LICENSING; EYE-BRIGHTENER SWATCH: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS

HERO CREAMS All eye creams aren’t the same. Choose one targeted to your specific concerns. If you want to soften lines around the eyes (in addition to “11” lines between the brows), try Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex ($74). A small amount of this velvety cream smooths and firms the skin. Plus, it comes with a cooling wand to depuff. Clarins Total Eye Lift ($89) is a complement to your morning coffee: It utilizes two types of plantbased caffeine to reduce puffiness and bags in under a minute. And even your eyes need sun protection. RéVive Sensitif Eye Cream ($165) boasts a trifecta of SPF 30, niacinamide, and vitamin E to protect and quench the skin.

COLOR STORY Don’t focus on only the under-eye. “Brighten the inner corners; that’s where it tends to be the darkest,” says New York makeup artist Nam Vo. Her solution: gold-based Rituel de Fille Celestial Sphere Eye Soot ($38) from the corner to the center of the lid to reflect light. Strategic color can also help add pep. Purple liner’s cool blue tones bring out the whites in eyes. Try Lancôme Le Stylo Waterproof Pencil in Amethyst ($27). Or just color-correct: Fenty Beauty Bright Fix Eye Brightener ($25) counteracts unwanted pigment so less concealer is needed. 1

101

The SHARPER Image A SOFTENING JAWLINE sent one writer in SEARCH of SOLUTIONS There are more aggressive options, of course, like dissolvable threads that literally “lift” the neck and chin. They last for 18 months. And then there’s the full-throttle neck lift. For that, I’d need a plastic surgeon.

“This has become the YEAR of the SNATCHED JAWLINE,” says Dr. Shereene Idriss.

’m not the only one obsessing over this area. “This has become the year of the snatched jawline,” says my dermatologist, Shereene Idriss, who recently opened her own practice, Idriss Dermatology, in New York City. She says seven out of 10 patients ask about defining their jaw, chalking up the drastic uptick in the demand for lowerface procedures partly to the pandemic. All that face time with one’s self has woken up the masses to the fact that “the jawline is the structural pole holding up a face,” says Idriss. “A strong angle can be seen as a sign of someone aging ‘well.’ ” If you think about the world’s most photogenic faces, they all have a jawline that sits somewhere between 120 and 130 degrees. Their jawlines are lifted; their skin, taut. I went to Idriss because I liked her real-talk, less-is-more approach. At my last visit, she described my jaw as “delicate” and getting only daintier, meaning that as I lose bone mass and volume as I age, my jaw will recede into my neck. Her recommendation? A combination platter of Botox to firm the neck bands, an ultrasound tightening treatment (Ultherapy), and hyaluronicacid fillers to lift my jaw. Ultherapy has no downtime but can be painful for up to a week. It takes six months to see the full effect, which lasts up to 24 months.

102

hen Marc Jacobs decided to get face and neck lifts in late July, he did so loudly and proudly, chronicling the process, including his post-op and recovery, on Instagram. He even added the cheeky hashtags #heckofaneck and #snatchedtightalright. The 58-year-old designer also publicly thanked his doctor, Andrew Jacono of the New York Center for Facial Plastic Surgery, who is responsible for Real Housewife Sonja Morgan’s lift as well. (She was 57.) He seemed like the guy to talk to. Jacono tells me that a third of his patients who want “what they like to call a ‘snatched neck’ ” are 40-somethings. He also explained why people opt to go under the knife. He says liposuction can take some of the fullness out, “but then you’ll have additional blousy skin underneath that with time can get crinkly.” Blousy? Crinkly? His words conjure an image of the clearance rack of Calypso in the early aughts. If I want maximum results, he says, I should consider a proper neck lift to tighten the underlying muscles and remove excess skin, which with Jacono costs $50,000. He tells me I should wait a few years before thinking about such a procedure. As for the lipo, threads, and other non- to minimally invasive derm procedures, he says those yield 25 to 30 percent improvement. He adds a few more facts of life: Youth has the advantage when it comes to cosmetic surgery because younger skin and tissue heal better and have more resiliency. The idea of staving off procedures until you’re 50 is quickly becoming as antiquated as rock-hard silicone breast implants. I don’t have a spare $50,000, but if I did, I’d be on Jacono’s wait list. I know how that sounds. When I tell friends I want this done, they say, “You’re crazy.” But those who know, know. My sister and I have talked about it. I imagine Zac Efron would be sympathetic; internet rumors abounded when he appeared in a Facebook Watch video with an extra-chiseled-looking jawline back in April. So I continue to see Idriss, and I get fillers and lasers. Surgery—I’m thinking about it. Until then, it’s chin up. HB

BY JESSICA IREDALE

PAUL SCALA/TRUNK ARCHIVE

n the summer of 1993, I was 13 years old. I was rail thin, had a flat chest and acne. In my mind, I had enough to deal with. Then came a new complex via an unsolicited assessment from my older sister’s friend at the dinner table one night: “You both have extra skin under your chin. It’s not, like, tight,” she told us. My sister and I locked eyes, knowing what she said was true. We were skinny teenagers, and we each had a visible double chin. Nearly 30 years later, this “friend” is out of the picture, but her remark has stuck with me, just like that little pocket under my chin. I still fixate over it. So does my sister. Our issue is genetic; no amount of weight loss or gain would change a thing. Over the years, I developed a habit of staring at myself in the mirror and pulling back the extra skin behind the corners of my jaw. It never struck me as a real problem until, inundated with photos of celebrities, models, and generally photogenic folks, I realized the one thing they all had in common was a razor-sharp jawline.

GEICO makes it easy to save when you bundle your home, auto, boat, cycle, or RV insurance. Now that’s a fortune we’d all like to get! Visit GEICO.COM to see if saving more is in your future.

GEICO.COM | 1-800-947-AUTO | LOCAL OFFICE

Some discounts, coverages, payment plans, and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or in all situations. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. Homeowners, renters, and condo coverages are written through non-affiliated insurance companies and are secured through the GEICO Insurance Agency, LLC. Motorcycle and ATV coverages are underwritten by GEICO Indemnity Company. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, DC 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. GEICO Gecko® image © 1999-2021. © 2021 GEICO 21_7 13276269

NEWS STRAIGHT FLUSH Blush is back in a big way, from the runways to TikTok, and it’s easy to see why: After almost two years of sitting inside and staring at screens, we could use a bit of glow. One to try is Clinique Cheek Pop Pearl (from top: Garnet Pop, Ruby Pop, and Rose Quartz Pop, $26.50 each). The powder is so luminescent, it makes your skin look lit from within. CENTER: JUMBO TSUI/TRUNK ARCHIVE; FRAGRANCE: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS

HAIR APPARENT In the world of celebrity beauty lines, here’s one that makes perfect sense: JVN, created by Jonathan Van Ness, the hairstylist who made his name on Queer Eye. Designed for all hair types, the formulas are built around a plant-derived molecule called Hemisqualane, which penetrates the hair shaft to add moisture, reduce frizz, and help preserve color (below, Undamage Strengthening Shampoo, $18). JVN is also bold in its eco-ambitions: It aims to be plastic-free by 2025.

ICON STATUS Today, Chanel No. 5 is considered a classic. But 100 years ago, when it launched, it was considered wildly avantgarde. The scent was one of the first to include aldehydes, ingredients that heighten the proportions of the floral notes while giving them an airy, almost sparkling quality. From that moment, perfumery was forever changed. Now the opulent floral scent is olfactory shorthand for elegance, and this season the fragrance is frozen in white for No. 5 L’Eau Eau de Toilette Collector’s Edition ($150).

skin care was founded on a dream to make Ayurveda an everyday affair. The ancient Indian practice leans on balancing the body through plants, flowers, and herbs. Our favorite: the jasmineinfused Body Oil ($128).

VINTAGE IMAGE Gucci Palette Beauté Des Yeux ($149) is a capsule collection of shadows, the first under the charge of creative director Alessandro Michele. It’s the ultimate ’70s-style mix of subtle and sparkly pigments; we love that robin’s-egg blue.

104

EARTHLY DELIGHTS Based on an idyllic island off the coast of British Columbia, Sangre de Fruta creates small-batch products like Botanical Body Cream ($74), which has a rich whipped texture. HB B

UNCAP THE LOVE™

LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24–OCTOBER 23

GEMINI MAY 22–JUNE 21

Rivals who assume they have the upper hand are about to be set straight, but try not to appear patronizing as you pull ahead and overcome recent setbacks. Show how decent and fair you really are.

Frustration over restrictions will lessen, so you’ll be able to turn your focus back to a number of areas. Still, steer clear of burnout that comes from taking on more than you can manage.

LUCKY DAY: THE 23RD.

LUCKY DAY: THE 1ST.

Friends enable you to pursue something that suits all.

A last-minute activity brings you huge benefits.

SCORPIO OCTOBER 24–NOVEMBER 22

CANCER JUNE 22–JULY 23

Upheavals at home or in your private life should be short-lived. To ensure that, find ways to prevent one or two particular people from disrupting an arrangement that means a lot to you.

Refuse to let killjoys dampen your hopes for fun-filled episodes with good friends. There’s no need to go into battle, but allow yourself to see that nothing and no one can ruin your plans. LUCKY DAY: THE 13TH . Preconceived ideas of a new acquaintance prove wrong.

LUCKY DAY: THE 19TH.

Time spent on others yields unexpected rewards.

SAGITTARIUS NOVEMBER 23–DECEMBER 21

AQUARIUS JANUARY 21–FEBRUARY 19

ARIES MARCH 21–APRIL 20

LEO JULY 24–AUGUST 23

While you may have found it difficult to be involved in group activities and gettogethers, October 8 heralds a positive turning point. Let yourself see the benefits of becoming part of the crowd.

Instead of comparing yourself to others, focus on your unique talents. As you accept a challenge that had seemed out of reach, take seriously the opinions of someone who champions you.

Communications with somebody special, and even a formerly estranged group, will improve. Avoid making assumptions about how others view controversial developments.

LUCKY DAY: THE 4TH.

LUCKY DAY: THE 28TH.

LUCKY DAY: THE 20TH.

Private or professional relationships should cease to be so demanding. However, you can’t overlook a situation with an individual who misinterprets your words and gestures. Issues of trust may be worth discussing.

News you’ve dreaded is amazingly optimistic.

Somebody provides something missing from your life.

Onlookers’ advice on where you’re going wrong is right.

A gift arrives just in time.

LUCKY DAY: THE 7TH.

)

CAPRICORN DECEMBER 22–JANUARY 20

PISCES FEBRUARY 20–MARCH 20

TAURUS APRIL 21–MAY 21

VIRGO AUGUST 24–SEPTEMBER 23

The fog will soon clear, enabling you to get a grip on tricky money-related or professional transactions. You’ll also find yourself regaining a sense of power; don’t be afraid to claim whatever’s rightfully yours.

You’ve struggled with contracts and administrative arrangements, so you may be hoping help is on its way. Embrace peers’ suggestions; you may imagine they have a secret agenda, but is that likely? Probably not.

If you offer a helping hand to those in need, you may find that the door between you remains open. This may encourage some to become dependent on you, so recognize when to leave everybody to their own devices.

Ongoing duties may often clash with personal wishes, but you’ll gradually work out a better balance between what’s expected and what you want. You’ll become more skilled at deciding who and what comes first.

LUCKY DAY: THE 13TH.

LUCKY DAY: THE 6TH.

LUCKY DAY: THE 27TH.

LUCKY DAY: THE 2ND.

Though you’ve given up hope of finding answers, they appear.

By speaking your mind, you heal old wounds.

Changes you assumed would be unpopular go down well.

Apathy turns to love through the actions of another.

106

OCTOBER PREDICTIONS BY PETER WATSON

CHARLIE ENGMAN/TRUNK ARCHIVE

MUST

HAVE GRABS Have you heard about GrandeLASH-MD and GrandeBROW? We’re the #1 lash and brow enhancing serums in the USA that promote longer, thicker looking lashes and fuller, bolder looking brows. They are moving fast, GRAB them before they’re gone!

before

after 12 weeks*

before

after 16 weeks*

*Based on consumer perception studies. Results will vary. Available at grandecosmetics.com, Sephora, Ulta Beauty, Morphe, Macy's & Amazon Luxury Beauty.

When someone we love has cancer, we are all affected — husbands, wives, mothers and fathers, sisters, brothers, and friends. This is our effort in the fight against cancer.

JOIN US IN THE FIGHT AGAINST CANCER AT RALPHLAUREN.COM/PINKPONY G l o b a l l y, 2 5 % o f t h e p u r c h a s e p r i c e f r o m t h e s a l e o f e a c h i t e m i n t h e P i n k P o n y c o l l e c t i o n i s d i r e c t e d t o a n i n t e r n a t i o n a l n e t w o r k o f c a n c e r c h a r i t i e s w i t h i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , p r o c e e d s b e n e f i t t h e P i n k P o n y Fu n d o f T h e R a l p h L a u r e n C o r p o r a t e Fo u n d a t i o n .

HAIR: TAMAS TUZES FOR R+CO; MAKEUP: HOLLY SILIUS

The PURPOSE Issue

The GOLDEN AGE of

NICOLE KIDMAN Photographs by COLLIER SCHORR / Styling by STELLA GREENSPAN Gown, VALENTINO.

109

For most, prestige TV offers fantasy and escape. But for NICOLE KIDMAN, a resolute MOVIE STAR with the EXPERIMENTAL SOUL of an artist, it has sparked a STUNNING PERIOD of REAWAKENING and REINVENTION.

Text by AMANDA FORTINI Photographs by COLLIER SCHORR Styling by STELLA GREENSPAN

n the past few years, Nicole Kidman has become nearly synonymous with the kind of prestige television drama that unfolds in a rarefied milieu of almost indecent affluence and privilege. In Big Little Lies, her character, Celeste Wright, a soft-spoken former attorney in an abusive relationship with her husband (Alexander Skarsgård), circulates among the wealthy elementary-school parents of Monterey, California. In The Undoing, Grace Fraser, a renowned therapist ensnared in her cheating husband’s (Hugh Grant) web of lies, is a creature of Manhattan’s Upper East Side. And in producer David E. Kelley’s latest rich-person show, Hulu’s Nine Perfect Strangers, Masha Dmitrichenko, a vaguely sinister Russian-American wellness guru, floats alongside the glittering pools and sugar-free smoothies of her rather creepy health spa, Tranquillum House, where she pushes her troubled, well-off clients to their mental and physical limits. This is Kelley’s specialty: All three series are executive-produced by him; two (Big Little Lies and Nine Perfect Strangers) are based on Liane Moriarty books. In Kidman, he’s found his star. Her characters in these series are difficult, often inscrutable women who, in less skilled hands, would not be remotely sympathetic: spoiled women, insufferably out-of-touch women, a woman who defends her murderous

110

husband, another who oversteps her guests’ boundaries and, at times, infringes upon their safety. When Kidman and I speak for the first time— on a Monday evening in July in the U.S., a Tuesday morning in Australia—I ask her what it’s like to inhabit them. “They’re difficult in the sense of, you go, ‘Okay, I’m going to live in this limbo place,’ ” she says in her soft Australian lilt. “And I’m going to ask my family to understand what’s going on here,” she continues, referring to her husband, country-music singer Keith Urban, and their two daughters, Faith Margaret, 10, and Sunday Rose, 13. “And I’m going to have responses, emotional responses, that will penetrate our lives.” Kidman’s auburn hair is wet and swept back into a chaotic chignon; she fiddles with it as we talk, taking it down and putting it back up again and again. She looks, in her black turtleneck and tasteful diamond earrings, like any woman getting ready to head to work on a weekday morning. On the day we meet, however, Sydney is two weeks into another one of Australia’s strict lockdowns and the entire family is together in their apartment. Kidman is Zooming from her office, “a shared space” filled with clothing, knickknacks, and photographs. Residents are allowed outdoors for only one hour a day to exercise—yesterday she took a walk ➤ B

Sweater, MAX MARA. Tights (worn throughout), WOLFORD.

This page: Blazer, THE ROW. Shirt, CHARVET. Pants, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. High Jewelry ring, BULGARI. Opposite page: Dress and pumps. BALENCIAGA. High Jewelry Barocko earrings, BULGARI.

This page: Dress, DIOR. Pumps, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. Opposite page: Dress, DIOR.

Opposite page: Coat and gloves, PRADA. High Jewelry necklace, BULGARI.

with director Jane Campion, her friend of 40 years—and she’s currently occupied with how to celebrate her older daughter’s birthday, which is the next day, at home. “We’ll make a cake,” she says with a shrug.

idman is in Australia, in part, to shoot an episode of Roar, a female-driven anthology series based on Cecelia Ahern’s book of short stories and created by Liz Flahive and Carly Mensch, of GLOW fame. Kidman, who is also an executive producer on the project, plays a woman whose mother (Judy Davis) has begun descending into dementia. “I’m in character, so my brain is fried,” she apologizes. The project likely cuts fairly close to home, as Kidman is also in Australia to visit her elderly mother. “Grandma’s 81,” she says. “I’m going to do this little job, but primarily Grandma is here and she needs to have her family around her.” Kidman has spent much of the pandemic working in her native Australia. During the latter half of 2020, Nine Perfect Strangers was filmed in the coastal town of Byron Bay. The show, which Kidman also executive-produced, is an ensemble piece featuring Melissa McCarthy as a down-on-her-luck menopausal author, Bobby Cannavale as a burnt-out former football player, Regina Hall as a furious divorcée, and Michael Shannon as a father grappling with his son’s suicide and his wife’s bottomless grief. “I don’t think there’s one bad performance,” says Kidman. McCarthy, who had read the novel and fallen in love with her character, Frances, on the page, says, “Once I knew Nicole was going to do it, there was really nothing to ‘think about.’ I mean, what kind of maniac doesn’t want to work with Kidman? Some things in life you just don’t need to mull over.” For six months, the group was, in Kidman’s words, “bubbled and isolated” together in a kind of tropical idyll. “We just really bonded,” she says, “and that’s unusual for this day and age. Because a lot of times people are coming in and leaving and you don’t get that camaraderie and friendship.” Kidman made the uncompromising artistic choice to stay in character as Masha for the entire shoot, speaking only in her Russian-American accent. (“It felt good, felt right,” she says.) “It was a little surreal, to be honest,” says Hall, who plays Carmel, the vengeful divorcée. “She walked in and she was Russian! I did not hear Nicole’s real voice until we wrapped. She didn’t break.” Adds McCarthy: “She’ll try anything. She’s not afraid to be weird or vulnerable or harsh in any given moment.” Although the wellness industry is a popular target of media criticism, the series only glancingly takes that approach, even as 116

the characters are fasting, soaking in hot springs, and microdosing psilocybin. “It’s not a cynical show,” says Per Saari, Kidman’s producing partner of more than a decade. “It’s not a satire, and it’s not a send-up of the wellness business.” Nine Perfect Strangers is instead something that feels far more interesting and surprising: a moving, prismatic portrait of a group of people suffering tremendously from the ills of modern life—addicted to food, drink, pills, social media; obsessed with the past, other people, the self—but who are earnestly, desperately trying to recover. The tone is intimate; the show spends time with the characters, tunneling back into their lives and pasts, lingering over their feelings in the way that television, even serious television, rarely does nowadays. “We’re leaning in to the characters, as opposed to making fun of them,” says Saari. The result is an examination of fear, aging, regret, and the possibility for transcendence that, along with the series’s evocation of microdosing—in later episodes, as the residents are given more psychedelics, the camerawork mimics the sensation of tripping—feels remarkably of the moment.

MASHA IS A THORNY, COMPLEX CHARACTER, and yet Kidman renders her seductive. She is both ruthless and benevolent, a standoffish ice queen who might suddenly melt with compassion for her charges. Kidman plays her, as she does all her characters, with deep empathy—she does not judge them or their choices—and a certain innate softness. “She’s able to recognize that a character may be behaving in an unsympathetic way, so it falls upon her, with her nuance and performance, to negate that,” says Kelley. He also mentions “the nucleus of kindness that comes from her” as integral to her power as an actor, a quality noted by everyone I interview. “She’s as good a human being as she is an artist, and that together, I think, only adds to her artistry,” says Hall. “It must be the lens through which she looks at life. She really is in touch with all of her humanity. And that’s what we get to witness when we watch her.” But there is also a palpable steeliness about her. She tells me that when choosing her roles, she’s “looking for really uncomfortable places, artistically,” adding, “I’m never looking to sit down on what I’ve already done.” What stands out about Kidman, and is arguably the lifeblood that animates her impressive body of work, is that she takes herself seriously as an artist—a quality that is somehow still rare in a woman, for all the obvious societal reasons. Women are expected to put their relationships or families first, to think of others before themselves. To make art as a woman—to be an “art monster,” to use novelist Jenny Offill’s glorious term—is often to ➤ be viewed as selfish, calculating, even unseemly.

“I’m always trying TO BE as OPEN as POSSIBLE. I just PREFER to LIVE in the WORLD that way.” B

This page: Dress and bodysuit, BURBERRY. Opposite page: Gown, VALENTINO. B.zero1 earrings, BULGARI.

“I suppose the artist spirit, a lot of times, is saying, ‘I don’t care what it’s gonna cost me as a human being, because my thrust is deeply artistic,’ ” Kidman says, pulling her hair down and putting it up again. She tells me that while filming the intense marital altercations in Big Little Lies, she would come home with bruises and have to explain to her young daughters where they came from. “And that’s probably just a massive push-pull in any person who’s a painter, a writer, you know?” she says contemplatively, treating the notion with the gravity it obviously holds for her. “If you’re really dedicated to it over a lifetime, that push-pull will collide with your existence and your connections with your family and all the people in your life. How much will that cost them? How much will it cost you personally? And how important is that artistic contribution?”

IDMAN, who is 54, started working at 14 years old and has appeared in 86 film and television projects in the course of her 40-year career. She has been nominated for numerous awards: four Oscars, winning Best Actress in 2003 for The Hours; two acting Emmys, of which she won one; and 15 Golden Globes, of which she received four, most recently for Big Little Lies, in 2018. She currently has two films on the way—Robert Eggers’s The Northman and Aaron Sorkin’s Being the Ricardos—both shot during the pandemic. Sorkin, who chose her to play Lucille Ball because he “wrote her with swagger,” says, “She’s a very hard worker. It’s a big and difficult role, with a lot of dense dialogue…but she kind of owns everything she’s in. So no days off. She is hard on herself, in a good way.” Kidman is one of the most prolific, quietly ambitious, and, clearly, disciplined actors working today. She also runs her own production company, Blossom Films, formed in 2010, along with Saari. She founded it because she felt there was a “dearth of roles” for women, especially older women (“At a certain age, it’s like, that’s it, you know?”), and that the subject matter she was interested in—stories about women, about relationships—wasn’t being depicted. “Where was the story about these women and what they were going through?” she asks rhetorically, referring to Big Little Lies. “There wasn’t one.” The first film Blossom produced, Rabbit Hole, directed by John Cameron Mitchell, was about a couple grieving the loss of their young son. She now has 12 producing credits to her name. When I ask how she manages it all, she tells me that she does “not have a big social life. I have my work, I have my family, I have my own inner landscape that I explore. I choose that probably more than I choose to be out partying.”

Opposite page: Cape, dress, and shoes, DOLCE & GABBANA ALTA MODA. B.zero1 earrings and rings, BULGARI. HAIR: TAMAS TUZES FOR R+CO; MAKEUP: HOLLY SILIUS; MANICURE: THUY NGUYEN FOR STATIC NAILS; PRODUCTION: ERIC JACOBSON AT HEN’S TOOTH PRODUCTIONS; SET DESIGN: MAXIM JEZEK. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS.

120

“I have my WORK, I have my FAMILY, I have my own INNER LANDSCAPE that I explore. I choose THAT more than I choose PARTYING.”

Even as a child, Kidman was bookish and serious. “My mother says that I was intense,” she says, laughing. “I’ve always felt things really deeply.” She was born in Honolulu in 1967 while her father, Antony, a biochemist who became a celebrated clinical psychologist, was getting his PhD; her mother, Janelle, a nurse, worked as a secretary to support her husband during his studies. The family returned to Australia when Kidman was just three years old so her father could take a teaching position, while her mother became a nurse educator and staunch women’s rights advocate. She says that her “socially conscious” parents taught her to “look at the world through different people’s eyes.” She characterizes her upbringing as “really substantive.” Her parents would take her and her sister, Antonia, who is three years her junior (formerly a popular Australian television personality, she now practices family law), to the opera, galleries, and the theater. They were deeply supportive of their older daughter’s theatrical aspirations and did not force her to stay in school. “My mother was like, ‘Very few people in the world know what they want to do early on, you know? So if there’s that passion there, I’m just gonna step aside and let you go.’ ” At age 19, with the Australian miniseries Vietnam, Kidman became a household name in her country, but it was the psychological thriller Dead Calm, in which she played a young wife kidnapped and menaced by a violent psychopath (Billy Zane) on a yacht, that brought her to international attention two years later. That same year, at her audition for Days of Thunder, she met Tom Cruise, a massive star in the wake of Top Gun. The two fell in love onscreen—she was the hot young neurosurgeon to his hot young race-car driver—and off, marrying in 1990, six months after the film’s release. The relationship, which came on the heels of Cruise’s divorce from Mimi Rogers, was catnip for the tabloid media. After a slew of lackluster films (Malice, My Life, Far and Away), Kidman took the road less traveled for beautiful young starlets, who tend to go the love-interest route, and began to make the sort of unexpected, daring choices that would define the rest of her career. Her first such role was as the perky, fame-hungry, utterly amoral sociopath Suzanne Stone in Gus Van Sant’s 1995 black comedy, To Die For—a razor-sharp, eerily prophetic puncturing of American obsession with celebrity that showed the critics Kidman truly could act. But the gossip surrounding her marriage to Cruise frequently eclipsed any serious discussion of her career. The scrutiny intensified during the filming of Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut, a three-hour cinematic exploration of a couple riven by sexual jealousy and obsession; the grueling shoot, which lasted almost a year and a half, was plagued by rumors. (Continued on page 149) B

EASY

Does It

Get comfortable in fall’s BEST KNITS, from MATCHING SETS to CHUNKY SEPARATES

Photographs by DAN MARTENSEN Styling by CAMILLE BIDAULT-WADDINGTON

This page: Dickie, TORY BURCH. Skirt, ALTUZARRA. Necklace (here and opposite), ALIGHIERI. Boots, PRADA. Opposite page: Top and skirt, FENDI. Boots, R13.

This page: Sweater and skirt, RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION. Opposite page: Turtleneck, LOEWE. Skirt, CAROLINA HERRERA.

This page: Jumpsuit, PRADA. Opposite page: Sweater and shorts, ETRO. Snood, KENZO. Boots, R13.

This page: Dress, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO. Trousers, JIL SANDER. Opposite page: Dress and necklace, GIVENCHY.

MODEL: ANITA POZZO; HAIR: RYAN MITCHELL FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE; MAKEUP: SIDDHARTHA SIMONE FOR CHANEL LES BEIGES; PRODUCTION: SHOOT PORTUGAL. SHOT ON LOCATION AT SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL, MONSARAZ, PORTUGAL. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS.

TRUNK SHOW In the 19th century, Parisian luggage maker LOUIS VUITTON founded a modern LUXURY BRAND infused with the SPIRIT of TRAVEL. To mark the 200TH ANNIVERSARY of his birth, the house has created LOUIS 200, a collection of its signature TRUNKS REINTERPRETED by 200 ARTISTS, CREATIVES, and CULTURAL FIGURES. The trunks are currently on view at Louis Vuitton stores globally and will be AUCTIONED at Sotheby’s in December. The company will also be DONATING a total of €2,000,000 to 15 ARTS-EDUCATION ORGANIZATIONS around the world.

Text by ALISON S. COHN Photographs by SEBASTIAN LAGER GLORIA STEINEM W hen Gloria Steinem sat down to write an essay for Louis 200, the feminist activist, organizer, and author began where she always has throughout her six-decade career: with a yellow legal pad. “I start that way, and then once I’ve written a certain amount, I usually transfer it to what was the typewriter and now is a computer,” she says. “There’s something about the physical connection of your hand and the page that to me is still more personal than passing your words through a word processor.” This time, Steinem got to skip the transcription phase after the Louis Vuitton team suggested using her lined sheet of paper to wrap a scaled-down trunk. In her essay, which begins, “I’ve learned that baggage is biography,” Steinem recounts how a life spent on the road—from her early adventures backpacking in India after graduating from college to years spent traveling around the world for speaking engagements as a leading voice in the women’s rights movement—has taught her that, in many ways, we are what we carry. Her minimalist packing list consists of a daily uniform of black pants and top and a change of belt to mix things up. “We as human beings had traveling cultures long before we had settled ones,” says Steinem. “There were bands of people following the seasons and the animals. Travel is in our genes.”

Louis 200 trunk by Gloria Steinem. 130

PRODUCTION: AMÉLIE GROSSET AT KITTEN PRODUCTION; SET DESIGN: HENRI PIERRE LECLUSE

NIGO “The act of wrapping something demonstrates respect for the between Louis Vuitton and Japan. “The influence that Europe recipient,” explains Tokyo-based designer, DJ, and cultural entre- and Japan had on each other during the Azuchi-Momoyama preneur Nigo of the inspiration for his Louis 200 trunk, which [1568–1600] and Edo [1603–1868] periods was substantial,” he comes with a custom logo slipcover. “It is a way of showing my says, pointing to the similarities between Louis Vuitton’s Damier respect for Louis Vuitton.” The founder of pioneering streetwear check and ichimatsu, a repeating pattern of alternating dark and labels BAPE and Human Made, Nigo teams with Louis Vuitton light squares that in Japanese culture represents prosperity. Nigo men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh on drops of tweaked Americana took cues for his trunk from gift-wrapped traditional Japanese staples, like a denim jacket in two different stonewashed fabrics sweets. “I created a cover with actual fabric and applied the print featuring the iconic LV Monogram and Damier Giant motif. For to it using a silk screen,” he says. “The fabric is one used for the the Louis 200 project, Nigo decided to focus on the connections curtains of my atelier.” HB

Louis 200 trunk by Nigo. 1

131

MARGARET QUALLEY Photographs by DEIRDRE LEWIS Styling by SAMIRA NASR

Is LEARNING to LET GO

This page: Jacket, shirt, pants, and bow tie, CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE. Shoes, BROTHER VELLIES. Opposite page: Dress, DIOR. Socks (worn throughout), FALKE. Shoes, CHURCH’S.

This page: Jacket, GIORGIO ARMANI. Necklace, HARRY WINSTON. Shoes, CHURCH’S. Opposite page: Cape and dress, CHANEL. High Jewelry earrings, BULGARI.

This page: Jacket, shirt, and pants, GUCCI. Opposite page: Cape, DOLCE & GABBANA. Bodysuit, NATORI. Necklace, HARRY WINSTON.

Puffer jacket, dress, and baseball cap, MARC JACOBS.

MARGARET QUALLEY’S CAREER is taking off, and the 26-year-old ACTOR and FORMER BALLERINA is embracing the RIDE

Text by MOLLY CREEDEN

t is late July in New York City’s East Village, and the streets teem with sensory abundance. To observe people strutting down the sidewalks near Tompkins Square Park is to wonder if bucket hats and crop tops are the only available attire in the entire metropolitan area. Trey Songz’s late-aughts anthem “Say Aah” booms over neon drinks and revelers spilling out of Miss Lily’s 7A café. Dogs and skin and bikes are out. An afternoon breeze sets in. It is finally summer, finally not the thick of a pandemic (a glorious pre-Delta period that just weeks later will engender nostalgia). It is an ideal place to be if you are 26 years old, as Margaret Qualley is, and in love with New York, as she has been since she moved to the city to study at the American Ballet Theatre when she was 16. “There’s so much kissing on the street right now, you know?” she says, in a giant vintage Nike tee and a pink Las Vegas hat she got at a gas station. “We’ve been reminded of what it’s like to experience things collectively, and I think you can feel that. The city feels alive and silly and spontaneous.” Qualley is back in Manhattan after nine months on Vancouver Island shooting Maid, the new Netflix series based on Stephanie Land’s memoir, Maid: Hard Work, Low Pay, and a Mother’s Will to Survive. In it, she portrays Alex, a 25-year-old mother trying to untangle herself and her young daughter from an emotionally abusive relationship, ricocheting between family members and government safety nets that fail her as she free-falls into poverty. She takes a job as a housekeeper, and she’s good at it, though not as skilled as she is at writing about the lives of the people whose credenzas and dildo drawers she dusts. The producers were still trying to cast the role of Alex’s mother, a free-spirited artist with undiagnosed bipolar disorder, when Qualley arrived in Canada to quarantine before filming. “It just 1

hit me that my mom should do it,” she says. She made the case in passionate emails to executive producers Molly Smith Metzler and John Wells, as well as her Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood costar Margot Robbie, whose company, LuckyChap, coproduced the series. It helped, of course, that her mother is Golden Globe– nominated actor Andie MacDowell. The execs were persuaded. The experience of playing a daughter opposite her actual mother was profound. “When you walk into a room and your mom is there, that does something to you,” she says. “Not only do you have permission to touch her like family, but rolling your eyes is a built-in response in the same way that tearing up from a welltimed hug is.” With her real mother watching, Qualley stepped into the role of one—along with the small triumphs and slogs that come with spending intense time with a child. She is effusive when she talks about Rylea Nevaeh Whittet, who plays her daughter, and their closeness made her patient and strategic, like an actual parent. Sometimes a four-year-old doesn’t want to get into a car seat for 20 takes, so Qualley got creative, throwing Whittet up on her shoulders or playing elaborate games of pretend. “Besides acting with my mom, the relationship with Rylea really hit me the hardest,” she explains. “When she’s asleep in my arms, that was happening for real. Having a little four-year-old cling on to you and need you is such a wild and special experience.” Qualley very much wants kids of her own someday. “Despite the fact that I dress like this,” she says, gesturing to the cavernous tee that someone earnestly wore in the 1990s, “I’ve always dreamt of getting married. There’s a girly-girl part of me that’s thought about what my wedding would be like.” (Big, drunken, with a dress that’s not too long, so she can dance, she adds.) “And I’ve dreamt ➤ of having kids. I’m a real romantic in that way.” 139

“I realized if I RELINQUISH CONTROL, if I don’t MICROMANAGE the things I’m NOT even QUALIFIED to micromanage and GIVE OVER FAITH to WHOEVER, I have A LOT OF FUN.”

here is a tenderness to Qualley, a softness and silliness that she can bury for roles—certainly for her commanding performance in Maid, which is steered by grit and vigilance. “Unfortunately, it’s so common,” she says, choosing her words carefully when I ask how she prepared for the emotional abuse her character endures. “And it’s true that more than half of people experience some level of psychological threat within a relationship in their lifetime. I just did my best to read the script and experience Alex’s reality as much as possible within the scenes.” Anyone with a calendar and internet access might also put together that Qualley was filming this role at the same time that she was dating Shia LaBeouf. News of their relationship broke in December, just one week after singer-songwriter FKA Twigs filed a lawsuit against the actor alleging sexual battery, assault, and intentional infliction of emotional distress during their prior relationship. By early January, Qualley and LaBeouf had split. In February, when Twigs detailed her story to Elle magazine, Qualley posted the cover on her Instagram account with the caption “Thank you.” “I think a lot of people were moved by your support,” I say of the post. “And I can’t imagine it was a decision you made lightly. Why did you do it?” “It was important to me for her to know that I believe her—and it’s as simple as that,” Qualley says, her face open but unreadable, before politely saying that she doesn’t want to talk about her

140

personal life. She’s not surprised, though, that this latest role may prompt questions about that time period. “Yeah,” she says, acknowledging the inquiries that are bound to come her way. “I’m like”—and then, with her elegant ballerina arms, she does an exaggerated pantomime of buckling a seatbelt over herself and settling into Drive—“all right.” But she does want to talk about her personal life. Qualley tells me about how after years of contorting herself into an idea of a person (aloof, shy, “cool”), she’s recently gotten closer to the person she was when she was a kid (goofy, open). She shows me pictures of the cardboard box in her apartment that until recently served as her breakfast table. She tells me a story about going to Paris and London with her siblings, Rainey, 31, and Justin, 35. It was the end of 2019, and they had all recently been broken up with. None of them could sleep, so they got breakfast early, walked for miles, gave museums a shot, ate ice cream, walked more. Her brother was eating jalapeños and lemons, which he’d heard release endorphins to help with depression. “And we were all hating on ourselves so much,” Qualley recalls. Reflected by the people cut from her same cloth, she saw her own proclivity for self-deprecation. “I was like, Can we all just band together and stop hating ourselves?” So she started going easier on herself, and it’s made her happier. She’s let go of some of the control she’d been bringing to work since she was a teenager pursuing professional dance. She’s carried that approach into fashion, an industry that’s been delighted to have her. (Earlier in the summer, she walked as the iconic bride in the last look at the Chanel couture show.) “I used to go into these environments feeling really scared of the way I’d be seen, really self-critical,” she explains. “And then I realized if I relinquish control, if I don’t micromanage the things I’m not even qualified to micromanage and give over faith to whoever, I have a lot of fun.” Of course, part of what makes this letting go easier, she knows, is that in her short career, she’s worked with an unusually high number of enviable creators: Quentin Tarantino, Spike Jonze, Sofia Coppola, Olivia Wilde, Chanel’s Virginie Viard. “Margaret is uniquely spontaneous and raw as an actor,” says Lila Neugebauer, who directed her in the haunting fifth episode of Maid. “She’s deftly attuned to her instincts, completely available to her scene partner, and a riveting live wire.” Qualley next brings those instincts to the independent film Sanctuary, a “bizarre love story” about 24 hours in a hotel room with a dominatrix (her). Later in the year, she’ll go to Panama, where her dad lives, to shoot The Stars at Noon, a Claire Denis adaptation of Denis Johnson’s 1986 novel, in which she plays an American posing as a journalist in Nicaragua during Sandinista rule. For now, however, she’s heading back to being 26 during an unprecedented summer in New York. She might go to dinner, or to a rooftop, or to a party in East River Park. But she’s just as likely to go home and prepare for the next character. “Work fun,” she calls it. “I’m just working really hard at trying to be good.” HB B

Jacket and shorts, ISABEL MARANT. Bodysuit, NATORI. High Jewelry earrings, BULGARI. Shoes, BROTHER VELLIES. HAIR: BOB RECINE; MAKEUP: ROMY SOLEIMANI FOR BOBBI BROWN; MANICURE: AJA WALTON FOR ESSIE; SET DESIGN: JULIET JERNIGAN. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS.

RADICAL GIVING PHILANTHROPY used to be all about BLACK-TIE GALAS and DEDICATED WINGS. But the SCIONS of some of America’s RICHEST FAMILIES are now PARTNERING with progressive ORGANIZATIONS to democratize GENERATIONAL WEALTH and put their MONEY where the MOVEMENT is. Text by NANCY JO SALES Images by PABLO DELCAN Illustrated by JUSTIN METZ

hen Casey Llewellyn was a teenager in Boston, her mother came to her with some startling news: “She said our family had money and I would never have to work in my life if I didn’t want to. That was extremely terrifying.” Llewellyn, a 37-yearold playwright, says she’d always known her family was well-off—but not like that. “Of course I knew we had money,” she tells me. “We went on vacations to Europe and ski trips. But my politics at that time were like, ‘Fuck the man.’ And then, suddenly, it was like, ‘Oh, my God, I’m the man.’ ” Llewellyn’s mother, Amelie Ratliff, a longtime philanthropist, had actually been trying to start a conversation with her daughter about redistributing wealth—something Ratliff herself has been passionate about since she was young. Growing up in Alabama in the 1960s, says Ratliff, 71, “the contradictions of what I was learning in church—‘Do unto others as you would have them do unto you’—and what I was seeing in the world were stark, and so I looked for other ways of exploring those contradictions.” 142

Ratliff ’s family’s money came from financial services, mortgage banking, and real estate. But she says that when she considered the true basis of their wealth, she saw it as “a result of systemic and horrific discrimination, with land acquired from the elimination and removal of Indigenous folks and the labor of enslaved Africans.” And so, she explains, “as soon as I got money, I began distributing it.” “My mother is very much the reason I’m in this work,” says Llewellyn, referring to her own philanthropy. “She gave me access to my [inheritance] when I was 18 and recommended I reach out to Resource Generation”—a nonprofit organization founded in 1997 under the name Comfort Zone (it changed its name in 2020), which encourages people ages 18 to 35 to donate a large portion of their wealth to progressive causes. Since then, Llewellyn, who now lives in New York, says she has given away all but roughly 10 percent of her wealth to a variety of organizations dedicated to social justice and climate collapse. “I don’t think I’m a rich person anymore, and it feels much better. I think it’s very hard to have money in an ethical way.” “Casey and I are allies in our work,” Ratliff says. “She pushes me. I’ve gone past where my parents were”—in terms of how ➤ B

nce upon a time, rich women did charity work as a way to gain social cachet (and, of course, some still do); organizing a fundraising gala was an opportunity to wear a designer gown and get your name in the society pages. That way of doing things never appealed to Susan Pritzker, 73. “It always made me super uncomfortable,” she says. “The rubber-chicken dinners with a bunch of fancy people listening to somebody at the pulpit saying, ‘You donors are so fabulous.’ It was very social. It was also transactional. What I was building was my Rolodex, and I could get a lot of people into those rooms because I could afford to go to everybody else’s parties.” In 1969, Pritzker, then Susan Stowell, married Nicholas Pritzker, a member of the family that started Hyatt Hotels Corporation. (Today he is an independent venture entrepreneur.) “I married into money, so I came into my philanthropy with this sense of, ‘Well, it’s not really mine,’ ” says Pritzker, who lives in San Francisco.

“Why doesn’t everyone just put on jeans and T-shirts and get together and write letters?” Regan Pritzker recalls thinking. “For the price of the gown, the gala, and the dinner, why don’t we just move the money to the organization?” 144

She was all the more uneasy with how the grantees in traditional charity situations were often treated; sometimes they would “get paraded across the stage as exhibits. I would always try to avoid doing that because I knew it was wrong.” She couldn’t stand it when grantees in turn seemed uncomfortable in their interactions with donors, to whom they seemed to feel they were expected to be “deferential.” “That’s why I’m really excited to have found out how to move toward something more empowering to both sides,” Pritzker says. “Really, truly, it all boils down to being constantly aware of where the power dynamic is sitting and asking, Is it in the right balance?”

SINCE 2019, PRITZKER HAS BEEN ON THE BOARD of Solidaire Network, one of the charitable organizations that has emerged in the two decades since the founding of Resource Generation. Solidaire’s purpose is to encourage wealthy people to not only donate their money but also change the system that unfairly gives them more of it. (Ratliff and Llewellyn have been members since 2015.) Conceived in 2012 after the Occupy Wall Street movement started a national conversation about economic inequality, Solidaire was officially launched in 2013 by a group of activists and philanthropists including Leah Hunt-Hendrix, a granddaughter of the late Texas oil tycoon H.L. Hunt and the organization’s first executive director. Today, the group has 244 members, 77 of whom are institutional members or have family foundations of their own. (Ratliff and Llewellyn, for example, sit on the board of the Ratliff Charitable Foundation, and in 2002 Pritzker and her husband and their four children founded the Libra Foundation.) This year, MacKenzie Scott donated $10 million to the organization. Solidaire operates out of 11 regional hubs, serving communities across the country. “Solidaire is a network of donors who are committed to racial justice, to averting the climate crisis, and to making sure that we’re building a future that’s democratic, multiracial, feminist, and pluralistic,” says Rajasvini Bhansali, 46, the group’s executive director since 2018. “By becoming a Solidaire member, people consent to being in a collective project that liberates wealth and funds social movements, grassroots organizing, and

Susan and Regan Pritzker, 2002

COURTESY SUSAN PRITZKER

much she gives away—“and she’s gone beyond where her mother is. Every wealthy person has to ask, How much is enough? How much do I really need, and how much do I want to make available more broadly?” A wave of radical giving is underway. The mammoth donations of philanthropic heavyweights like MacKenzie Scott and Melinda French Gates are only the most visible examples of affluent people trying to address America’s outrageous problem of economic inequality and change the way giving gets done. In a viral Medium post this past June, Scott wrote of her “humbling belief that it would be better if disproportionate wealth were not concentrated in a small number of hands, and that the solutions are best designed and implemented by others.” Those “others” are often the recipients of financial grants whose voices have not always been heard. Llewellyn explains, “That’s the structural change I think we’re going for: giving the power to the people with the expertise and the knowledge, the grassroots organizers and community organizers; giving power to communities that are trying to transform things for themselves.”

“My politics at that time were like, ‘Fuck the man.’ ” says Casey Llewellyn. “And then, suddenly, it was like, ‘Oh, my God, I’m the man.’ ” what it will take to build a progressive force in the United States that’s lasting and not dependent on electoral cycles. “Most of our members have an understanding that the wealth that they have inherited wasn’t just about their merit,” says Bhansali, who started out as a community organizer after studying astrophysics at the University of California, Berkeley. “Much of that wealth comes from a long history of exploitation that took for granted the labor of Black bodies and stolen Indigenous lands. There’s an understanding that it’s their job as donors to actually liberate this wealth in the service of social justice.” Instead of having donors control how funds get distributed, Solidaire calls upon its grantees to direct the course of change. For example, its Movement Infrastructure Fund “is guided by strategic direction from our advisory committee, made up of movement organizers,” says Bilen Mesfin Packwood, a spokeswoman for Solidaire and the founder and CEO of Change Consulting. “The Black Liberation Pooled Fund is guided by our Movement Oversight Committee, also made up of longtime organizers working toward Black liberation,” Mesfin Packwood says. “Most of our staff has a background in grassroots

organizing. We bring that experience and analysis to our work.” On an annual basis, Solidaire moves about $20 million through its three pooled funds, while its members collectively donate approximately $100 million more on their own. “Our 10-year goal is to move a billion dollars to social justice,” says Bhansali. One notable recipient of Solidaire’s support has been the Movement for Black Lives. The group’s annual budget was still relatively modest when it began partnering with Solidaire in 2014. “Now they’re one of the most significant change organizations in this country,” Bhansali says. “They’ve become an umbrella organization that’s essentially changing the narrative, changing how we think about anti-Blackness in this country. Without their consistent effort at the national scale, which Solidaire played a part in helping grow, we wouldn’t be in the moment we find ourselves in. As incomplete as the work still is, it’s a pretty significant win of accompanying a movement from early days.”

REGAN PRITZKER REMEMBERS THE DAYS when her mother, Susan, would be working on invitation lists and the invitations to charity events had to look a certain way. “My mom’s not a ➤ 145

fancy, formal person by any stretch,” she says. “She’s the one who would always be in jeans and a T-shirt, but she would participate in organizing these types of galas.” Regan, now 49, recalls thinking, even as a child, “Why doesn’t everyone just put on jeans and T-shirts and get together and write letters? I was like, I don’t understand; for the price of the gown, the gala, and the dinner, why don’t we just move the money to the organization? That really resonated for my mother too, but she was working inside of what was happening at the time. It’s just the way things were done—and, of course, it still does happen. I’ve been really heartened to see how it’s evolving, though there’s still so much work to do.” A former elementary-school teacher and cochair of the Libra Foundation board, Regan says she found out about Solidaire in 2017 from Leah Hunt-Hendrix. “We went for a walk and she told me a bit about the history of the group,” she says. Regan was moved “because of the responsive nature of the work and the thinking around how people with access to wealth can lean in to philanthropy in ways that are not perpetuating some of the same patterns of donor-centered giving.” The influence Susan had on Regan as a philanthropist now came full circle when Regan introduced her mother to Solidaire. “I immediately felt this sense of ‘This is what I’ve been looking for,’ ” says Susan. Solidaire’s emphasis on promoting the agency of “the people who are on the front lines doing the work of organizing” was important to Regan from the beginning. She says that after joining the group, she became more educated on how she could help shift the paradigm of giving. “It’s been essential for me to be in relationships with people who are willing to speak more honestly to me about my wealth,” she says, “who say things to me like, ‘I’m not trying to give you a hard time, but we’re not going to let you off the hook either, and you need to step up. Don’t just write a check and go away. Get into the work with us, jump in and help us, and don’t let it come from your ego; let it come from your commitment to this vision of a transformed society where all people have enough and we can live in a right relationship with the planet.’ “They’re not just telling me, ‘You’re amazing,’ ” she adds. Regan confesses to feeling some discomfort at even talking about her involvement as a donor. “I think my role is important, and I take it seriously, but I don’t think of myself as the spokesperson for the work,” she says. “The way society still sees the donor as the celebrity in the story and centers the donor instead of centering the work and the good teams of people that make it possible has got to change. The fact that I’m even having this conversation with you, I find ironic, because I do the least of all the people who work on all the different projects I support.” Inspired in part by Solidaire, Regan and her husband, Chris Olin, launched the Kataly Foundation in 2020 with the mission of working toward “a world in which Black and brown people have the resources, power, and agency to execute their own visions for justice, well-being, and shared prosperity within their communities.” Nwamaka Agbo, Kataly’s CEO, says the organization began with seed money of $445 million and was “founded intentionally as a spend-out foundation”—which means that “we will be giving away more of our assets than our endowment earns, 146

which allows us to actually divest our assets out of Wall Street and strategically reinvest them into Black, Indigenous, and communityof-color projects that build community.” Agbo, 37, who comes from a background that includes organizing, says Kataly’s founders have been true to their goal of letting organizers take the lead. “As the board members of Kataly,” she says, “Regan, Chris, and Susan have done a really excellent job of leaning in to their commitment of decentering themselves out of the decision-making that happens around our grants and out of the day-to-day operations of the foundation, so that those of us who come from social movements who are now running the foundation are able to make decisions that are deeply valuesaligned and supporting social movements.”

he mothers and daughters I spoke with all said they get back more from their giving than they ever give away. “A lot of my life has been spent moving in these donor organizing spaces because I felt as I did, my own humanity was returned to me,” says Llewellyn. “For me,” says Susan Pritzker, “to narrow my focus and to now be supporting BIPOC-led movement organizations is like a dream come true. It’s exactly where I want to be. Solidaire-type grant-making is still a tiny piece of the pie,” she adds, “but it’s grown so dramatically, and the interest feels explosive. I think it’s in part because of the sense of solidarity, if you will, that’s created among the donor community. Resource Generation was the first to hit on this—this sense [among some wealthy people] of ‘Oh, my God, am I the only person going through this, wanting to do good things with my money without feeling icky?’ For me, it’s very hard to sit with privilege and wealth and not feel a little tainted by it.” Llewellyn agrees: “The negative emotional impact of having money is real,” she says. “Having wealth has damaged us—damaged our resilience, our sense of self-worth. Having things you feel you don’t deserve—because everyone deserves everything equally—can affect your sense of worth. It’s like, we feel fucked up,” she goes on. “And a lot of it, in my understanding, has to do with the isolating nature of wealth.” To address the discomfort of sitting with wealth and wanting to liberate it into the world, Solidaire offers donors training on “transforming philanthropy, how to have hard conversations with family members, unearthing family stories of wealth accumulation”—which includes uncomfortable truths about the ways families became well-off—“donor organizing around taxation, and talking with your family about abolition and defunding the police,” says Mesfin Packwood. But beyond the problem of economic inequality, Llewellyn adds, “There’s the reality of where we are with climate collapse. We have to figure out ways to sustain the environment—which also involves finding ways for people to use their expertise, which I feel is what giving to social-justice movements is all about. It’s supporting people with the expertise to solve the problems that are keeping us all up at night. “The goal is based in the knowledge that our liberation is completely connected,” Llewellyn says. “That we are completely interdependent with each other and with the earth.” HB B

“The way society still sees the donor as the celebrity in the story and centers the donor instead of centering the work and the good teams of people that make it possible has got to change,” says Regan Pritzker.

VOICES: CORI BUSH

VOICES: ANITA HILL

GIVING BACK, the ITALIAN WAY

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 85

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 88

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 91

Bush counters, “I am a product of middle-ground policy,” she says. And she believes it has failed her. “The fact that I lived low-wage [jobs] for so many years, that my credit was so messed up because of the poverty that I was living through, even though I was faithful to my job for 10 years. What that does to you physically, living in places that were unsafe,” she lists out. “I’m a product of people not focusing on what mass incarceration has done to our communities. My friends dying—my friends who are now in prison, year after year.” She tells me about the Delmar Divide, a street in her district where one can literally trace the economic and racial fault lines built into our country’s policies. “As you go south of that street, there’s an 18-year difference in life span. And the median income goes up by about $40,000, just by crossing the street,” she says. “A lot of the investment is in those communities. And then there’s the disinvestment on the north side of that street. There are parts of my district that look like there was a war: big, huge, old cathedrals with the roof gone; schools abandoned for so long that they need to be torn down.” She tells me that despite the overwhelming poverty in her district, there’s one person there who owns 1,700 “broken-down and dilapidated homes.” As a result, she says, she can’t join the call for always seeking the middle ground: “It’s that failed policy that allows St. Louis to be where we are right now.” Working to try to change such big structural issues can feel hopeless, especially when victories, like the one Bush scored in August, can be wiped out by stacked courts. But Bush and her allies don’t see it that way. Senator Elizabeth Warren, who worked with Bush on the moratorium, says, “In a legislature, there’s a lot of negotiation that takes place out of view of the public. But every once in a while, one person stands up and says from the heart, ‘I’m in this fight because it is the right fight. And I will stay here until we make change.’ That’s what Cori did.” Bush says, “If I’m not on the inside, if nobody wants to fight, if nobody’s in there to push that agenda, then how do you get it on the outside?” HB

truth is, gender-based violence is costing individuals and their communities huge sums of money. People’s mental and physical health suffers. As we heard in statements in the Harvey Weinstein case, people’s careers suffer. People lose their sense of security and may have to move to a new home, often with their kids, especially in the case of intimate-partner violence. Money that should be going into productivity really is just going into trying to make people whole again. And that is a serious cost. Systemic changes will happen only if we insist. It’s time for a president to look at the whole of the problem and resolve to stop it. Even though I have a history with Joe Biden, who was the chairman of the Senate Judiciary Committee when I testified in 1991, we’re very clear about what the problem is and we understand each other’s position. But I also understand that he has tremendous power. He could invite someone tomorrow to talk about the problem of how sexual assault and rape are handled in the criminal-justice system or someone to talk to business leaders about sexual harassment, assault, and extortion within workplaces. He could convene a committee tomorrow to rebuild the Violence Against Women Act to do what it was intended to do. That’s why I think the Cuomo decision is so important. When Biden called for New York governor Andrew Cuomo’s resignation after the sexual-harassment report was released, I was surprised and happy. It was a first for a president to call out a popularly elected official in that way. What Letitia James, New York’s attorney general, did was exactly what those of us who are victims and survivors have been calling for: a thorough investigation. James laid out her process for gathering information—who she talked to, what they said—and she followed through with why she reached the conclusions that she did in her report. At the very end, and this was important, she said she believed the women who complained. In the United States, we have set ourselves up as leaders for justice and democracy. This is another issue where it’s well worth our effort to try to live up to all those ideals that we espouse. HB

a Sotheby’s auction of fashion-show ephemera like Rem Koolhaas sculptures and a runway look worn by Gigi Hadid. Meanwhile, Bottega Veneta chose to directly fund scientific research, providing €300,000 ($320,000) to create three two-year scholarships at universities in Rome, Padua, and Naples. “We recognize that supporting the medical professionals who are saving the lives of others must be our priority during this time,” said creative director Daniel Lee. And Bulgari endowed fellowships for vaccine research at the University of Oxford’s Jenner Institute and the Rockefeller University in New York. “In times like this, it is important to be united and support however we can all those who are in the front lines, fighting every day to save hundreds of lives,” said Donatella Versace, who, with her daughter, Allegra, made a €200,000 ($220,000) donation to fund an ICU unit at a Milan hospital. Gucci made a donation of €2,000,000 ($2,200,000) in support of two crowdf u n d i n g c a m p a i g n s f o r t h e Wo r l d Health Organization and Italy’s Civil Protection Department, calling for help from the #guccicommunity. Valentino made a €1,000,000 ($1,100,000) donation to a hospital in Rome as part of its #ValentinoEmpathy campaign. (In August, Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli wrote on Instagram, “Vaccination is not a choice. It’s a civil responsibility. You can’t be free to choose to respect others.”) Moncler likewise helped set up a giant vaccination hub inside Milan’s Generali Square Garden. This past spring, Armani’s show space, the Tadao Ando–designed Armani/Teatro, was filled with nurses putting shots in arms instead of models stomping down a runway. “I must say that the response of the fashion industry to this situation has been fast and rational,” reflects Armani. “Everybody has done their job in order to help. And it is great to see this. The fashion system can be full of egos sometimes. This time, we acted in unison. And this is, I believe, the most important lesson: We must stay strong and united. Because it is only by sticking together that we will come through this terribly difficult time.” HB

148

NICOLE KIDMAN CONTINUED FROM PAGE 120

(Kidman and Cruise won a libel suit against a tabloid that reported the couple had to use a sex therapist for their sex scenes.) Kubrick died suddenly before the film’s release in 1999, adding to its overall aura of strangeness. When Kidman and Cruise divorced two years later, Eyes Wide Shut felt like a premonition. Kidman doesn’t discuss the divorce in interviews. (Was it over Scientology? Only she knows.) But when I ask whether she felt annoyed by the press focusing so maniacally on her relationship, she says simply, “I was young. I think I offered it up?” She laughs. “Maybe I’ve gotten a bit more trepidatious, but I’m always trying to be as open as possible. I just prefer to live in the world that way.” She is quiet for a moment. “I’m wary at times, and I’ve been hurt, but at the same time I much prefer a warm approach rather than a prickly shutdown approach. My husband, Keith, says that when he met me, he said, ‘How’s your heart?’ And I apparently responded, ‘Open.’ ” She is charmingly candid about her marriage to Urban, whom she met at a 2005 event called G’Day L.A. that honored notable Australians. Kidman recalls that he gave a speech in which he talked about his mother, and her sister, who was sitting next to her, leaned in and whispered, “Well, it doesn’t get much better than that.” Kidman shot back, “Yeah, but he’s not gonna be interested in me.” She laughs. “And he actually wasn’t that interested in me at the time—which he now says is not true; he was just sort of intimidated.” Four months later, with the assistance of a few “angels” pulling strings “behind the scenes, helping us hook up,” as she tells it, the pair started talking by phone. She laughs again, a full, wry, infectious laugh. “Yeah. I was really, really into him,” she says. “He took a little time. And he’s like, ‘That is so incorrect, Nicole.’ ” A year later, they were married in a chapel overlooking the Pacific in Sydney. In discussing their union, she seems realistic about the quotidian trials of marriage yet still noticeably in love. “We’re always working through stuff, but it’s very much love based, so there’s an enormous amount of give and take,” she tells me. “I want him to have the best life he can have, and he responds the same way.” She smiles. “We 1

really love parenting together.” A few days before we speak, I check her Instagram account, on which she posts only minimally (“I’m not on the Twitter or anything like that,” she says. “It zaps my energy and time.”), and see a photo she’s put up for their 15th wedding anniversary. It is a frank and sexy portrait—Urban is licking her neck, their two chiseled jawlines in profile—taken in 2017 at Madonna and Guy Oseary’s Oscars party by the pseudonymous French photographer JR. “He was like, ‘You want to have a photo taken?’ ” she tells me. “And I was like, ‘Baby, kiss my neck.’ And he did that.” This same spirited, spontaneous energy is evident in her work. Her artistic choices are always unpredictable and original, even when not entirely successful, from Baz Luhrmann’s excessive, anachronistic Moulin Rouge! (2001), in which she sang and danced to her tubercular death; to Alejandro Amenábar’s gothic psychological horror The Others (2001), in which she played a young mother besieged by ghosts; to Stephen Daldry’s devastating The Hours (2002), for which she donned a prosthetic nose to transform herself into a suicidal Virginia Woolf at the height of her powers, clarity, and madness and garnered an Academy Award for her eccentric and haunting performance. Her career has been more Tilda Swinton than Meg Ryan—more austere, experimental art queen than lovable mainstream sweetheart—and she has worked with nearly every celebrated director out there, from Noah Baumbach (Margot at the Wedding) to Lars von Trier (Dogville) to Werner Herzog (Queen of the Desert) to Sofia Coppola (The Beguiled). So varied are her projects that it’s difficult to draw a line through them; they seem to be linked purely by Kidman’s idiosyncratic sensibility, or perhaps by a desire to collaborate with the greats. Yet one clear theme that emerges is that her work tends to go to dark, discomfiting, psychosexual places, à la Celeste’s sadomasochistic relationship in Big Little Lies or Alice’s erotic fantasies in Eyes Wide Shut. Kidman, in fact, is one of the few A-list actresses who are willing to do sex scenes and nudity if they serve the story. “I’m not willing to just do it willy-nilly,” she says, matter-of-factly, “but if there’s a reason for it … I’ve always said that [sex] is a very important connection between human beings. Why would you not depict it onscreen?”

LAST NOVEMBER, ONCE NINE PERFECT Strangers wrapped, Kidman flew to Belfast, Northern Ireland, to shoot The Northman, in which she plays a Viking queen. She repeatedly asserts that she is grateful to be able to work right now, in spite of all the restrictions. “I’ve seen the effects on the arts firsthand. My husband, who’s a musician, really did not work for two years,” she notes when we speak again by phone in mid-July. “We’re all having to shift right now but still trying to create art through this process.” It was not pleasant, she says, to leave her family so close to Christmas and quarantine in Northern Ireland for two weeks, but acting is her job and her vocation. “You’re just going, ‘All right, well, this is what I do. It’s part of my purpose.’ ” She admits that she recently went through a period of doubt, thinking, I’m not a scientist, or I’m not doing socialjustice law, or I’m not a doctor who’s saving lives. But she is reminded of the importance of art every time a young man comes up to her and says that Boy Erased, the 2018 film about a gay teen (Lucas Hedges) whose Baptist parents (Kidman and Russell Crowe) force him to take part in a conversiontherapy program, changed his life, was his life. Or when women, strangers, approach her, cry and hug her, referring to the domestic abuse that they too have suffered. “Those moments,” she says, “they’re really deep— from a stranger who feels like they know you, love you, are part of you because of your work.” Of course, art heals in simpler ways too, in that it provides entertainment and distraction during times when we need it most. I ask her if she was aware of the collective viewing phenomenon The Undoing became during the long fall of 2020, the way people watched together, nostalgically yearned for the prepandemic Manhattan the show depicted together, and parsed the murder mystery together each week on social media. “So Hugh and I would text,” she says, “and he’d be like, ‘Do you believe this?’ And then he’d be like, ‘They think you did it, haha!’ But it was kind of cool that it found its way.” She doesn’t want to linger there, though, talking about the reception of her work. The process is what matters to her. “However it lands, that’s out of my hands,” she says. “The idea of moving forward artistically has always been the way in which I work. Onward, you know?” HB 149

COVER On the cover with black and red dress: Dior dress, $8,400, and belt, $800; 800-929-DIOR. Bulgari High Jewelry necklace, price upon request; 800-BULGARI. Wolford tights, $33; wolford.com. On the cover with gold dress: Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda dress, cape, and shoes, prices upon request; 01139-02-7788-4730. Bulgari B.zero1 Rock earrings, $6,150, and rings, $2,270–$7,800; 800-BULGARI. INSIDE COVER Balenciaga dress, $8,290. 212-3281671. Bulgari Barocko High Jewelry earrings, price upon request; 800-BULGARI. EDITOR’S LETTER Page 30 Zero + Maria Cornejo dress, $895; savannahsantamonica .com. Roberto Coin hoop earrings, $2,200; robertocoin .com. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page 37 On Nicole Kidman: Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda dress, cape, and shoes; 011-39-7788-4730. On Anita Hill: Tory Burch blouse, $398; toryburch.com. Bulgari B.zero1 earrings, $3,100; bulgari.com. On Margaret Qualley: Gucci jacket, $3,300, shirt, $1,300, and pants, $1,300; gucci.com. PORTRAIT MODE Page 63 Messika Paris Lucky Charm Medallion necklace, $16,680. Harwell Godfrey Rainbow foundation-chain necklace, $3,800, with (from left) Major Sun Sign medallion, $7,950, Talisman Shield medallion, $5,200, Major Moon medallion, $7,450, Pyramid Stone medallion, $3,800, and Rainbow Heart to Benefit Human Rights Campaign, $3,500, with 100 percent of profits donated to HRC. Marlo Laz coin necklace, $23,000. FD Gallery charm necklace, $17,000. Have a Heart x Muse charm necklace, $23,400. Signed Fred Leighton charm necklace, price upon request. 4 OF A KIND Page 66 Louis Vuitton blazer, shirt, and shorts, prices upon request. THE ANKLET Page 68 Messika Paris anklet, price upon request. 4 OF A KIND Page 70 Clockwise from top left: Harry Winston Winston Candy ring, Winston Cluster ring, Sunflower ring, Winston Cluster ring, Winston Candy ring, Sunflower Twin ring, Sunflower ring, and Winston Cluster ring, prices upon request. Missoni bag, price upon request. WATCHES Page 72 Harry Winston Midnight 29mm automatic watch, price upon request. Patek Philippe watch, $48,500. Chopard Happy Sport 36mm timepiece, $39,800. Rolex DayDate 40 watch, $39,250. Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch, $42,600. Vacheron Constantin watch, $42,200. SHOPPING LIST Page 76 Charles Loloma pendant, price upon request. DRESS CODES Page 81 Dior Fine Jewelry bracelet, $30,600. CORI BUSH Page 83 Zero + Maria Cornejo dress, $895; savannahsantamonica.com. Roberto Coin hoop earrings, $2,200; robertocoin

.com. Page 85 Christopher John Rogers shirt, $650, and skirt, $995; net-a-porter.com. Roberto Coin hoop earrings, $1,400; robertocoin.com. Christian Louboutin pumps, $745; christianlouboutin.com. IN FOCUS Page 92 JW Anderson trousers, price upon request. NICOLE KIDMAN Page 109 Valentino gown, $24,000; 212-772-6969. Page 111 Max Mara sweater, $995; 212-879-6100. Wolford tights, $33; wolford.com. Page 112 The Row jacket, $2,390; therow.com. Brunello Cucinelli pants, $1,995; 212-334-1010. Bulgari High Jewelry ring, price upon request; 800-BULGARI. Page 113 Dior dress, $8,400; 800-929-DIOR. Page 114 Dior dress, $8,400; 800-929-DIOR. Wolford tights, $33; wolford.com. Christian Loubouti pumps, $775; christianlouboutin.com. Page 115 Prada coat, $7,600, and gloves, price upon request; prada.com. Bulgari High Jewelry necklace, price upon request; 800-BULGARI. Page 117 Balenciaga dress, $8,290, and pumps, $3,250; 212-328-1671. Bulgari Barocko High Jewelry earrings, price upon request; 800-BULGARI. Wolford tights, $33; wolford.com. Page 118 Burberry dress, $10,900, and bodysuit, $3,990; us.burberry.com. Page 119 Valentino gown, $24,000; 212-772-6969. Bulgari B.zero1 Rock earrings, $6,150; bulgari.com. Page 119 Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda dress, cape, and shoes, prices upon request; 011-39-02-7788-4730. Bulgari B.zero1 Rock earrings, $6,150, and rings, $2,270–$7,800; 800-BULGARI. EASY DOES IT Page 122 Fendi top, $950, and skirt, $1,450; fendi.com. Alighieri necklace, $195; alighieri.co.uk. R13 boots, $1,295; r13.com. Page 123 Tory Burch dickie, $348; toryburch .c o m . A l t u z a r ra s k i r t , $ 6 9 5 ; a l t u z a r ra .c o m . Prada boots, price upon request; prada.com. Alighieri necklace, $195; alighieri.co.uk. Page 124 Loewe turtleneck, price upon request; loewe.com. Carolina Herrera skirt, $1,190; carolinaherrera.com. Page 125 Ralph Lauren Collection sweater, $1,990, and skirt, $1,690; ralphlauren.com. Page 126 Prada jumpsuit, $3,050; prada.com. Page 127 Etro sweater, $2,880; etro.com. Etro shorts, $750; similar styles available at etro.com. Kenzo snood, price upon request; kenzo.com. R13 boots, $1,295; r13.com. Page 128 Givenchy dress, $1,220, and necklace, $2,520; similar styles available at givenchy.com. Page 129 Salvatore Ferragamo dress, $1,590; ferragamo.com. Jil Sander trousers, $1,390; Dover Street Market New York, NYC, 646-837-7750. MARGARET QUALLEY Page 132 Dior dress, price upon request; 800-929-

DIOR. Falke socks (worn throughout), $23; falke .com. Church’s shoes, $850; church-footwear.com. Page 133 Celine by Hedi Slimane jacket, $2,950, shirt, $770, pants, $970, and bow tie, $175; celine .com. Brother Vellies shoes, $795; brothervellies.com. Page 134 Chanel cape, $8,300, and dress, $7,200; 800-550-0005. Bulgari High Jewelry earrings, price upon request; bulgari.com. Page 135 Giorgio Armani jacket, $3,795; armani.com. Harry Winston round brilliant Rivière necklace, price upon request; 800-988-4110. Church’s shoes, $850; church-footwear .com. Page 136 Dolce & Gabbana cape, $3,995; 877-70-DGUSA. Natori bodysuit, $295; natori .com. Harry Winston round brilliant Rivière necklace, price upon request; 800-988-4110. Page 137 Gucci jacket, $3,300, shirt, $1,300, and pants, $1,300; gucci .com. Page 138 Marc Jacobs puffer jacket, $6,500, dress, $18,000, and baseball cap, price upon request; bergdorfgoodman.com. Page 141 Isabel Marant jacket, $1,215, and shorts, $2,750; isabelmarant .com. Natori bodysuit, $295; natori.com. Bulgari High Jewelry earrings, price upon request; bulgari.com. Brother Vellies shoes, $795; brothervellies.com BEAUTY Ami Colé, amicole.com. Byredo, byredo .com. Chanel, chanel.com. Charlotte Tilbury, charlottetilbury.com. Clarins, clarinsusa.com. Clinique, clinique.com. Colorescience, colorescience .com. CurrentBody, us.currentbody.com. Drunk Elephant, drunkelephant.com. Estée Lauder, estee lauder.com. Fenty Beauty, fentybeauty.com. Foreo, foreo.com. Grande Cosmetics, grandecosmetics.com. Gucci, gucci.com. Huda Beauty, hudabeauty.com. Ilia, iliabeauty.com. Jones Road, jonesroadbeauty.com. JVN Hair, jvnhair.com. Kosas, kosas.com. L’Oréal Paris, lorealparisusa.com. Lancôme, lancome-usa.com. Merit, meritbeauty.com. Milk Makeup, milkmakeup .com. Pai, paiskincare.us. Perricone MD, perriconemd .com. RéVive, reviveskincare.com. Rituel de Fille, ritueldefille.com. Saie, saiehello.com. Sangre de Fruta, sangredefruta.com. Sisley, sisley-paris .com. Soma Ayurvedic, somayurvedic.com. Stila, stilacosmetics.com. Talika, talika.com. Tata Harper Skincare, tataharperskincare.com. Tatcha, tatcha .com. The Lip Bar, thelipbar.com. Tower 28 Beauty, tower28beauty.com. Trinny London, trinnylondon .com. Uoma by Sharon C, walmart.com. Victoria Beckham Beauty, victoriabeckhambeauty.com. Westman Atelier, westman-atelier.com. YSL Beauty, yslbeautyus.com.

HARPER’S BAZAAR (ISSN 0017-7873), OCTOBER 2021, ISSUE NO. 3696, is published monthly with a combined issue in June/July and December/ January (10 times per year) by Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 U.S.A. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Debi Chirichella, President and Treasurer, Hearst Magazines Group; Kate Lewis, Chief Content Officer; Kristen M. O’Hara, Chief Business Officer; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. © 2021 Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Harper’s Bazaar is a registered trademark of Hearst Communications, Inc. Periodicals postage paid at NY, NY, and additional entry post offices. Canada Post International Publications mail product (Canadian Distribution) sales agreement no. 40012499. Editorial and Advertising Offices: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019-3797. Subscription prices: United States and possessions: $9 for one year. Canada and all other countries: $29 for one year. Subscription Services: Harper’s Bazaar will, upon receipt of a complete subscription order, undertake fulfillment of that order so as to provide the first copy for delivery by the Postal Service or alternate carrier within four to six weeks. For customer service, changes of address, and subscription orders, log on to service.harpersbazaar.com or write to Customer Service Department, Harper’s Bazaar, P.O. Box 6000, Harlan, Iowa 51593. From time to time, we make our subscriber list available to companies who sell goods and services by mail that we believe would interest our readers. If you would rather not receive such offers via postal mail, please send your current mailing label or an exact copy to Mail Preference Service, P.O. Box 6000, Harlan, Iowa 51593. You can also visit preferences.hearstmags.com to manage your preferences and opt out of receiving marketing offers by e-mail. Harper’s Bazaar is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or art. None will be returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. Canada BN NBR 10231 0943 RT. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (see DMM 507.1.5.2); NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to Harper’s Bazaar, P.O. Box 6000, Harlan, Iowa 51593. Printed in the U.S.A. 150

P H OTO G R A P H E R : T Y L E R J O E

P RO MOT IO N

TRY EXCLUSIVE PRODUCT SAMPLES

CHAT WITH OTHER BEAUTY AND FASHION ENTHUSIASTS

LEARN

A DIOR DAYDREAM

The Brooklyn Museum presentation of the Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition is curated by Florence Muller, Avenir Foundation Curator of Textile Art and Fashion at the Denver Art Museum, in collaboration with Matthew Yokobosky, Senior Curator of Fashion and Material Culture, Brooklyn Museum. The exhibition opens with a journey through time and space—Paris to New York. The House’s multiple sources of inspiration— from Versailles to the splendor of flowers—are on display. Visitors may also discover dresses that have graced the most dazzling actresses, from Grace Kelly to Jennifer Lawrence. On view from September 10th, 2021–February 20th, 2022. Tickets available on brooklynmuseum.org

BAZAARTHEBUZZ.COM

FACEBOOK.COM/HARPERSBAZAAR

THE LATEST FROM ELLE AND HARPER’S BAZAAR OH! DID WE MENTION THE PRIZES?

JOIN THEINNERCIRCLEGROUP.COM

@HARPERSBAZAARUS

HIRO

JULY 1964

IT’S A CLICHÉ TO SAY that certain fashion images transcend fashion. But Hiro, who passed away on August 15 at the age of 90, had no time for clichés. From the late 1950s through the mid-1970s, his vivid, colorful compositions, still lifes, and portraits, produced with great technical precision, were a defining feature of Harper’s Bazaar. His pictures could be dreamlike, ethereal, and occasionally even surreal, like the disembodied hand adorned with a Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet pictured here. (The hand belonged to Diana Vreeland’s assistant.) Born Yasuhiro Wakabayashi in 1930 to Japanese parents in Shanghai, Hiro spent his early years in China before his family was repatriated to Japan after the end of World War II. In 1954, he came to New York and got a job assisting Richard

Avedon, later apprenticing under Bazaar’s famed art director Alexey Brodovitch. Avedon, who shared a studio with Hiro for more than a decade, surmised that Hiro’s constant quest for newness in his images was in part shaped by the feelings of otherness he harbored growing up, maintaining the perspective of “a visitor,” as Avedon put it, “all his life.” Hiro, who returned to Bazaar in 2001, told the magazine then that he was drawn to fashion photography precisely because of how it could force you to take another look at things you had preconceived ideas about. “To me, the essence of fashion is not now but the future,” he said. “To photograph something beautiful doesn’t interest me. I would rather do something surprising, something to twinkle people’s senses.” HB

Beauty in Strength, New York, 1964. Photograph by Hiro 152

Research is the reason I’m alive MIRIAM, 36 T R E AT E D F O R BREAST CANCER

Only the science we support now will be there for us tomorrow.

Donate at BCRF.org