July/August 2016 Digital Issue by Kostuch Media Ltd.

MORE CLUCK FOR YOUR BUCK DINERS FLOCK TO INNOVATIVE CHICKEN OFFERINGS

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VOLUME 49, NUMBER 5 JULY/AUGUST 2016

CONTENTS 39

IMAGES: DAVID PARKINS [COVER ILLUSTRATION, CULINARY TEAM CANADA], MIKE CRANE [JAMES OLBERG]

Features

10 MORE CLUCK FOR YOUR BUCK

Diners are flocking to innovative chicken offerings By Sarah B. Hood

SPECIAL

FOOD ISSUE

19 INGREDIENT PROFILES

F&H’s annual round-up of ingredients trending in Canada’s restaurants By Danielle Schalk, Andrew Speller and Graeme Garland 33 GOING FOR GOLD Meet the members of Culinary Team Canada as it prepares for the 2016 Culinary Olympics By Andrew Speller

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

39 ON THE WORLD STAGE

James Olberg aims to prove Canada’s culinary prowess at Bocuse d’Or 2017 By Danielle Schalk 40 SUPPLIER PROFILES

A spotlight on artisanal producers offering madein-Canada products By Amy Bostock

42 THE 2016 BAR REPORT

A more discerning guest is shifting the landscape of Canadian alcohol consumption By Jennifer Febbraro

52 ROCK STAR PANEL Highlights from last month’s Food for Thought: Leading Chefs’ Panel at the Canadian Foodservice Summit

Departments

2 5 9

FROM THE EDITOR FYI FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER

46 RAISING THE BAR

Highlights from the 2016 Nightclub and Bar Show By Jeffrey W. Stewart

48 CUTTING EDGE

Chefs are artists, and every artist needs the right tools to succeed By Denise Deveau

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FROM THE EDITOR For daily news and announcements: @foodservicemag on Twitter

and Foodservice and Hospitality on Facebook.

FOOD FORWARD

“

In the past, food choices were dictated by what tasted good. Today, and especially as we age, the relationship between diet and health is becoming better understood

”

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

As the Internet and globalization have made the world smaller, the world of food has actually become larger and more important than ever. Once merely the sustenance our bodies needed to function, food now brings with it a variety of different connotations — some good, some not so good. Last month, as an example, we learned the first genetically modified salmon had been approved for sale in Canada. The announcement created a groundswell of controversy. While some hailed it as an initiative that would lead to greater food quality and production methods, others saw it as yet another sign of tampering with our natural food supply. We live in a world that is constantly evolving. Carnivores are slowly being replaced by vegetarians, pescatarians and flexitarians. The movement to incorporate more plantbased foods in our diet is also quickly growing. Last year Michelin-star chef Alain Ducasse made headlines when his restaurant at the Plaza Athenée in Paris went meatless. Recently, the owners of Chase Hospitality Group in Toronto made a commitment to increase its restaurants’ plant-based food to 25 per cent of its menus. Last month, in a surprising move, the University of Toronto announced it would be severing ties with contract caterer Aramark, choosing instead to run the foodservice department at its downtown campus itself. The university cited the fact that today’s students are demanding made-from-scratch foods as the reason for the change and, as a result, will now serve more local produce, as well as less pre-prepared and processed foods. Clearly, the continuing saga of healthy foods is creating new anxiety about what we eat. In the past, food choices were dictated by what tasted good. Today,

and especially as we age, the relationship between diet and health is becoming better understood. To that end, in late May, the Centre for Hospitality and Culinary Arts at George Brown College organized a one-day nutrition course, which attracted a sellout crowd of more than 300 who came together to listen to medical experts talk about nutrition. Michael Moss, author of the best seller Salt Sugar Fat spoke about the increasing trend by large food processors to add salt, sugar and fat to our foods as a means of making their products convenient and irresistible. After years of convenience driving restaurant and grocery sales, today’s consumer is clamouring for natural, healthy and better-tasting food, while also demanding the companies making the products and serving them are eco-friendly, ethically minded and socially conscious. With a cacophony of voices screaming to be heard, today’s consumers are being forced to cut through the noise by doing their own research, and in the process, becoming their own advocates. Much of this is being spurred by the millennial cohort, who is fuelling the move to more natural, less processed and more authentic foods. It’s an educated group, and one that will continue to spur change in all aspects of the food chain. Operators and suppliers who ignore them do so at their own peril.

Rosanna Caira Editor/Publisher rcaira@kostuchmedia.com

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EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA rcaira@kostuchmedia.com ART DIRECTOR MARGARET MOORE ideas@margaretmoorecreative.com MANAGING EDITOR AMY BOSTOCK abostock@kostuchmedia.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR ANDREW SPELLER aspeller@kostuchmedia.com ASSISTANT EDITOR DANIELLE SCHALK dschalk@kostuchmedia.com MULTIMEDIA MANAGER DEREK RAE drae@kostuchmedia.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER COURTNEY JENKINS cjenkins@kostuchmedia.com SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER/U.S.A. WENDY GILCHRIST wgilchrist@kostuchmedia.com ACCOUNT MANAGER MARIA FAMA VIECILI mviecili@kostuchmedia.com ACCOUNT MANAGER MAGGIE SPENCE mspence@kostuchmedia.com ACCOUNT MANAGER CHERYLL SAN JUAN csanjuan@kostuchmedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICE ASSOCIATE ELENA OSINA eosina@kostuchmedia.com CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS kml@publicationpartners.com, (905) 509-3511 CONTROLLER DANIELA PRICOIU dpricoiu@kostuchmedia.com FOUNDER MITCH KOSTUCH

ADVISORY BOARD CARA OPERATIONS KEN OTTO CORA FRANCHISE GROUP DAVID POLNY CRAVE IT RESTAURANT GROUP ALEX RECHICHI FAIRFAX FINANCIAL HOLDINGS LIMITED NICK PERPICK FHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHER FRESHII MATTHEW CORRIN JOEY RESTAURANT GROUP BRITT INNES KATIE JESSOP REGISTERED DIETITIAN LECOURS WOLFSON LIMITED NORMAN WOLFSON MANITOWOC FOODSERVICE JACQUES SEGUIN SCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY & TOURISM MANAGEMENT, UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH BRUCE MCADAMS SENSORS QUALITY MANAGEMENT DAVID LIPTON SOTOS LLP JOHN SOTOS SOUTH ST. BURGER CO. JAY GOULD THE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSON THE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWAN UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS NORTH AMERICA GINNY HARE

To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceandhospitality.com VOLUME 49, NUMBER 5 Published 11 times per year by Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Tel: (416) 447-0888, Fax (416) 447-5333, website: foodserviceandhospitality.com. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: 1-year subscription, $55; U.S. $80; International, $100. Canada Post – “Canadian Publication Mail Product Sales Agreement #40063470.” Postmaster send form 33-086-173 (11-82). RETURN MAIL TO: Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Member of CCAB, a Division of BPA International, Restaurants Canada, The American Business Media and Magazines Canada. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada, through the Canadian Periodical Fund (CPF) of the Department of Canadian Heritage. Printed in Canada on recycled stock.

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INAUGURAL CANADIAN FOODSERVICE SUMMIT COMES TO TORONTO BY AMY BOSTOCK

pproximately 180 foodservice industry professionals gathered at The Glass Factory in Toronto in May for the 2016 Canadian Foodservice Summit, presented by the NPD Group and Foodservice and Hospitality magazine. Following a welcome from F&H editor and publisher, Rosanna Caira and Robert Carter, executive director, Foodservice for The NPD Group, Scotiabank’s Aron Gampel opened the conference with an economic reality check. “The global economy is stuck in a low gear we can’t get out of,” he told the crowd, citing factors such as low oil prices and the impact of labour shortages on the foodservice industry. Next, a panel of restaurant executives, including Paul Hollands of A&W Foodservice of Canada, Christian Polge of Coca-Cola Limited, Mark Pacinda of Boston Pizza International Inc. and Peter White of Dairy Queen, dove deeper into the challenges faced by Canadian foodservice operators and suppliers.

FYI RISE OF THE DIGITAL CONSUMER The digital foodservice industry in Canada is

According to Hollands, there are no new visits in the industry right now and haven’t been for many years. “We have seen a fundamental shift in customers’ ability to pay,” he said, calling the shift a “structural problem that isn’t going to go away.” Pacinda agreed, saying the only way for operators to grow in today’s economy is to fight for share. “We need to make sure when customers are going out to eat, they’re coming to us.” The “M” word was once again front-andcentre, with all panelists agreeing millennials are driving foodservice trends and dollars. “Millennials grew up with a different perspective on food,” said Hollands, adding consumers’ attitude towards what’s in their food is a fundamental shift. “I read an article which said 40 per cent of millennials don’t trust the food served in restaurants.” Mark Dempsey, Client Development, Foodservice, The NPD Group offered some industry predictions for the coming year, leading off with the fact the foodservice market in Canada will remain flat. The FSR segment, he added, will continue to lose out to the more nimble. “It’s become a real race to get value messages to customers,” he said. “QSRs have really capitalized on this.” Top value message consumers’ want include s two-can-dine deals and daily specials. “This is the most critical time to believe your customers. They’re telling you what they want and then putting their money where their mouths are.” Other predictions included the continued growth of the fast-casual segment ($275 million

currently $1.2 billion and has experienced 29-per-cent growth over the last five years. That fact, presented by Dave Fleet of Edelman Canada, made the audience at the 2016 Canadian Foodservice Summit sit up and take notice. But, he warned, digital can both build and destroy a brand, so operators need to have a strategy in place. “Social media is now mainstream,” he said. “You can’t just play around with it anymore — people will notice.” The consumer’s expectations of a brand’s social media presence have changed, with 53 per cent of people surveyed by NPD saying they expect a social customer service response in one hour or less. And 53 per cent expect those responses to be tailored to their needs. “They don’t want to have to re-explain the issue with every interaction so your system needs to be integrated across all channels,” said Fleet. Changes to watch for in the digital space include messaging apps and conversational commerce; live video; virtual reality; and artificial intelligence, he said.

in sales this year); food and menu inflation will increase beyond the rate of inflation; and “more of the same in the next 18 months to two years.” The day wrapped up with the Food for Thought: Leading Chef Panel, moderated by Caira and featuring chefs Mark McEwan, Michael Bonacini, Alex Chen and Rob Gentile (see story on p. 52). l

KNOW THY CUSTOMER Shifting segments and consumer behaviours were the topic of conversation for the 2016 Canadian

Foodservice Summit’s Master Class session, led by The NPD Group’s Steve Thornberry and Matt Voss. “Challenges in the foodservice industry are increasingly driving the popularity of segmentation,” said Thornberry. “Segmentation improves relevance and that’s all you need to know about why it’s important.” Voss presented case studies of operators and suppliers who utilized segmentation to better target customers. “You have to focus on the right customer,” said Voss.

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FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FYI

COMING EVENTS

July 8-24: Summerlicious, various locations, Toronto. Email: wintersummerlicious@toronto.ca; web: toronto.ca Aug. 28-30: Western Foodservice and Hospitlaity Expo, Los Angeles Convention Center, L.A. Tel: (203) 484-8050; email: rmathews@urbanexpo.com; web: westernfoodexpo.com Sept. 15-18: CHFA East Conference and Trade Show, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, Toronto. Tel: 800-661-4510; email: info@chfa.ca; website: chfa.ca Sept. 22: Kostuch Media’s Icons & Innovators Breakfast featuring George Cohon, Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel, Toronto. Tel: 416-447-0888 x235; email: dpricoiu@kostuchmedia.com; website: foodserviceandhospitality. com/shop Oct. 29: 2016 Canadian Hospitality Foundation Gala, Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto. Tel: 416-363-3401; email: chf@theohi.ca; web: thechf.ca Nov. 21: Ontario Food Tourism Summit, The Westin Ottawa, Ottawa. Email: communications@ontarioculinary.com; website: ontarioculinary.com Dec. 2: The 28th Annual Pinnacle Awards, Fairmont Royal York, Toronto. Tel: 416-447-0888, ext. 235; email: dpricoiu@kostuchmedia.com; website: kostuchmedia.com

FOR MORE EVENTS, VISIT http://bit.ly/FHevents CORRECTION In the June issue of Foodservice and Hospitality magazine, it was incorrectly reported that Browns Socialhouse opened 45 new locations in 2015. The correct number of new units was 13. We apologize for the error.

HEALTH MATTERS With healthy eating continuing to gain top-of-mind awareness George Brown College invited the food community to its first Nutrition Symposium on May 26. Themed “Ambition Nutrition,” the day featured a series of addresses by key nutrition experts such as Dr. David Ludwig of Harvard Medical School and Boston’s Children Hospital; Michael Moss, author of Salt Sugar Fat; as well as two panels of leading industry experts and an interactive cooking demo and sampling. One of the highlights of the day was a keynote presentation by Moss, who spoke about the food processing industry’s excessive use of salt, sugar and fat to make products convenient and irresistible. Ludwig, walked the audience through the conventional view of obesity, citing carbohydrates as one of the true culprits in weight gain and explaining how these foods produce too much insulin in the body. Dr. Dariush Mozaffarian, cardiologist, professor and dean of Tufts Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy, told the audience “diet is the single [largest] cause of death,” but nutrition is not typically considered in medicine. Due to mixed messages out there about what’s healthy and what’s not, “the public is confused,” said Dr. Mozaffarian. As he explained, “all calories are not the same,” pointing to the need for increased consumption of vegetables, fruits, beans and whole grains. At the end of the day, he said, “Diet affects health in every way.” — Rosanna Caira

MTY EXPANDS SOUTH MTY Food Group Inc. signed an agreement in May to acquire Scottsdale, Ariz.-based Kahala Brands, Ltd. for an estimated US $300 million. The acquisition represents a major milestone for MTY as it solidifies its presence in the U.S., which will become a major growth platform for company. “This is one of the most important days in the history of MTY, being able to acquire a great portfolio of brands managed by among the very best people in the industry,” says Stanley Ma, chair of the Board and CEO of MTY. “MTY had been searching for the right foundation for its U.S. expansion for the last three years and it has finally found the perfect match. The combination of the two companies’ portfolios and expertise will produce tremendous opportunities in Canada, the U.S. and worldwide.” With the addition of Kahala’s 18 brands, MTY’s portfolio will comprise approximately 5,500 stores under 57 brands. The transaction is expected to close by early August.

UNDER ONE ROOF On May 30, Smoke’s Brands opened a Smoke’s Food Court concept, which includes Smoke’s Poutinerie, Smoke’s Weinerie and Smoke’s Burritorie in a single unit in Ajax, Ont. The company already offers dual units with its Weinerie and Poutinerie brands, but the new Ajax location marks the first triple-branded unit. “I’m going to put the challenge out there that we are the first-ever food court by one brand,” said Ryan Smolkin, founder and CEO of all Smoke’s Brands. According to Smolkin, food courts were a natural extension. “I always said I didn’t want product extension, it would be brand extension,” he said of the new multi-brand concept. With 60 deals for the triple units already in the works on university campuses, Smolken said the next step is to take Smoke’s into traditional food courts. “Once we dominate the four-wall, above ground retail space, food courts are next,” he said. Smoke’s has always been focused on the downtown core, urban nightlife “but there’s this secondary market we’ve barely tapped into,” said Smolken. “Young urban and suburban families…it’s the 8 to 12 year-old kids driving the food dollar. — Amy Bostock.

6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

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FYI

RESTO BUZZ

Miss Prêt-à-Manger founder, Kimberly Lallouz, will be opening her second Montreal restaurant Le Bird Bar in July. The new eatery, located in Griffintown, aims to bring a unique twist to fried chicken. Le Bird Bar will cater to a wide variety of customers by offering gluten-free, dairy-free and vegetarian mock-chicken options along with 13 sides and 13 sauces… World-renowned French chef and holder of 28 Michelin Stars, Joël Robuchon, is opening his first Montreal restaurant, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, at the Montreal Casino. The new spot will be Robouchon’s 27th restaurant and his ninth L’Atelier. The new location is set to open later this summer…Co-owners of Tractor Foods, Steve and Meghan Clarke, and their talented culinary team, are adding a third B.C location to their repertoire of healthy and fresh cafeteria-style restaurants — this time in Olympic Village. The Olympic Village Tractor is slated for a June opening… After 36 years of serving its loyal patrons, Calgary’s oldest pub, The Unicorn closed for retail expansion. Following its closing, however, the landmark pub is back. Under the management of existing Unicorn manager, Kevin Warner, and along with the pub’s original staff, The Below Deck Tavern and Libertine Public House were amalgamated in March to create the new three-floor Unicorn Superpub…Oliver & Bonacini’s latest venture, Leña, opened at Yonge and Queen streets in June. The restaurant’s head chef, Anthony Walsh, created a menu blending South American, Spanish and Italian cooking for a vibrant gastronomical experience. Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new establishment to abostock@kostuchmedia.com.

IN BRIEF

Approximately 900 members of the foodservice industry attended this year’s Annual Friends of We Care Dinner and Awards Gala on April 30, raising more than $1 million to send children with disabilities to Easter Seals camps across Canada. Guests sat down to a three-course dinner prepared by chef Tawfik Shehata and his team at the International Centre… Edo Japan opened its 26th Calgary location in CF Market Mall. The new unit — located in the mall’s food court — features the brand’s new storefront design…Since June 1, all Chase Hospitality Group (CHG) restaurants now offer 25-percent plant-based menus. The Toronto-based group now offers innovative vegetarian and vegan menu options…In May, Applebee’s and SkipTheDishes announced an official nationwide delivery partnership. Select Applebee’s restaurants will begin offering delivery with live GPS tracking in major cities across North America — including Calgary, Winnipeg, and Regina — with plans to expand to additional cities… Tim Hortons made-to-order Garden and Caesar Fresh Salads are available to order

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at all locations nationwide…Taco Bell has brought its latest menu innovation to Canada. The Quesalupa — part chalupa, part quesadilla — combines two fan favourites into one item with a new, cheesy interior. Canadians have been anticipating the arrival of the Quesalupa since its launch in the U.S. earlier this year…Tim Hortons’ Camp Day, celebrated its 25th anniversary on June 1st. It launched a new cup design which will be available in orange, green, blue and purple in honour of the milestone.

PEOPLE

Trevor Ritchie won the 2016 National Selection Competition and the Golden Bocuse Trophy. The competition, held at George Brown College, Centre for Hospitality and Culinary Arts in Toronto, saw candidates prepare a meat platter for 12, two meat plates and 14 fish plates using mandatory components. The dishes were graded on a possible 20 points by a tasting panel which included chefs Normand Laprise, Jean-Pierre Challet and Simon Smotkowicz, as well as master chefs Didier Leroy and Judson Simpson. An additional

20 points, scored by the Kitchen Jury, was based on sustainability, hygiene, methodology, preparation, technique and organization. Chef Dan Craig, executive chef of the Delta Toronto Hotel placed second and Roger Ma, chef de cuisine at Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar in Vancouver took third place. Ritchie’s commis, Navjeet Singh, was honoured with the Best Commis Award, sponsored by Rougié…Centennial College’s School of Hospitality, Tourism and Culinary Arts added two new members to its leadership team. Executive chef Alison Iannarelli and GM Dorothy Vo will lead Centennial’s new Restaurant and Event Centre, which are set to open this fall as part of the college’s $85 million expansion. Iannarelli joins Centennial from Summit Golf and Country Club in Richmond Hill, Ont., where she held the position of executive chef. Vo comes most recently from Compass Group Canada where she was the assistant GM of Food & Beverage at Parkside Student Residence in Toronto…Ned Bell joined the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre team as the organization’s Ocean Wise executive chef. Bell is an avid advocator for sustainable seafood and has partnered with the aquarium’s Ocean Wise program on several occasions.

SUPPLY SIDE

Ventura Foods has reached an agreement to acquire the Dressings, Sauces and Mayonnaise (DSM) business of Cargill. “The acquisition of Cargill’s DSM business is a strong fit for Ventura Foods’ strategy to grow, strengthen and diversify,” says Chris Furman, president and CEO of Ventura Foods. The deal stands to add greater depth to Ventura Foods’ capabilities in the custom dressings, sauces and mayonnaise categories.… At the 2016 National Restaurant Association’s Restaurants, Hotel-Motel Show Petrosoft launched its point-of-sale (POS), ordering and delivery technology. It is an all-in-one solution, with cloud-based services included, for restaurant payments, ordering, delivery and back-office tasks. Designed to meet the needs of QSRs, the POS solution is comprised of an embedded ordering system, a self-service kiosk, a prep station and a delivery management system. FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER

DOUGHNUT WARS

Krispy Kreme takes another run at the Canadian market

ver the years, we have seen many iconic American brands enter the Canadian market. While some have succeeded in capturing the hearts and wallets of the Canadian consumer, others have quickly learned Canada is a distinctly unique market, which differs in many ways from the U.S. A classic example is Krispy Kreme Donuts. Those of you who live in, or near, the Greater Toronto Area, will likely recall the excitement the company initially generated when it announced it would be bringing its iconic brand to the Canada. In December 2001, hundreds of customers lined up outside of the brand’s Mississauga location in the middle of the night to buy hot doughnuts at the first Canadian store. However, the novelty quickly wore off, and

by 2005 the company was forced to buy out the first Torontobased Canadian franchisor after the business filed for bankruptcy protection. Fast forward 11 years, and the popular American QSR brand, which took the country by storm a decade ago, has made the decision to reinvest in the Canadian market. Now to be fair, it never really left — there are still six locations in Quebec and Ontario — however, the company stated it is ready to expand the business in a significant way, opening as many as 50 additional stores in the two provinces with a less expensive operational model, before setting its sights on the rest of Canada. This begs the question, why now? The company has undergone a number of significant management changes, which likely led to the decision. Furthermore, the strong greenback provides some added incentive to invest in Canada, while currency rates remain favourable. Lastly, market conditions in Canada seem to support the brands key offering — doughnuts. Doughnuts are the number-1 baked good consumed at Canadian foodservice, with every fourth baked good ordered being a doughnut (25 per cent). Over the last five years, doughnuts have seen a strong compound annual growth rate of six per cent and, in 2015, this growth jumped to 12 per cent.

Of all the doughnuts served in Canada, 96 per cent are consumed at QSRs. They are predominantly snack items and tend to be eaten at breakfast or as an afternoon pickme-up. Krispy Kreme locations with drivethrus align with market sentiment, as 36 per cent of doughnuts served are carried out and 29 per cent are ordered at drive thru. Not surprisingly, doughnuts are most often paired with hot brewed coffee (around 45 per cent of the time) and hot specialty coffee (10 per cent of the time). Both of these pairings have seen strong growth (more than 15 per cent) on the year. While the data may support the brand’s offering, winning back consumers is another story all together. Canadians remain fiercely loyal when it comes to QSR brands (especially those that are relied upon for an early morning coffee) and only time will tell if Krispy Kreme can once again shake up the doughnut market. l

Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc. He can be reached at robert.carter@npd.com for questions regarding the latest trends and their impact on the foodservice business. FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

NANDO’S SPECIALTY Nando’s restaurants offer savoury dishes such as a flamegrilled chicken with a peri-peri kick

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FOOD FILE

CLUCK FOR YOUR BUCK DINERS ARE FLOCKING TO INNOVATIVE CHICKEN OFFERINGS

BY SARAH B. HOOD

n Edmonton, a remarkable success story is unfolding at a reimagined Korean restaurant. Located in the historic Old Strathcona area, Seoul Fried Chicken sells whole and half chickens, but the big seller is the Five-Piece Set with fries or corn fritters, salad and pop ($11); the restaurant sells more than150 daily — “easily,” says owner Jake Lee. “This was a full-fledged Korean restaurant for 16 years. It was a struggle,” Lee says. Last February, he reopened with a focus on seven unusual fried-chicken flavours, such as cilantro-lime with chimichurri; G.P Cheese with grated Grano Padano; and Golden Kari with bright yellow Japanese curry powder. Sides are also somewhat daring: Kale Caesar with beet chips and truffle oil, Sesame Potato Slaw and, of course, house-made kimchi. “People are starting to get comfortable with the menu, so they order a half or whole chicken,” Lee says. “That was my goal: to get a cheap entry.”

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FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FOOD FILE Lee’s experience shows how much Canadian diners love chicken — if it’s handled in a creative way. According to Kristin Menas, associate editor, Canada & Adult Beverage with Chicago-based Technomic Inc., the ordinary roast chicken dinner is losing popularity, with chicken entrées down by 12.5 per cent overall in the past year. However, handheld options and international influences are booming: in the past two years, chicken burgers are up by 5.3 per cent and kabobs have risen by 12.5 per cent. “From a menu standpoint it’s the third-most consumed category in Canada, after coffees and red meats,” says Robert Carter, executive director, Foodservice with Toronto-based NPD Group. The category is growing, he says, thanks to its reputation as a healthy food choice. “Tied into that, chicken seems to be a good carrier food for some of the ethnic trends.” And there’s always room for a creative chef to win diners over with an inspired interpretation. In Winnipeg, for instance, Bonfire Bistro offers Manitoba chicken breast topped with Sambucapoached fig demi-glace and goat cheese with potatoes and a vegetable ($26) and wood-fired paella with chicken, chorizo, clams, prawns, mussels, sea scallop, green onions, tomatoes and peas on saffron rice ($28). Blind Tiger Coffee Co. — a

CHICKENING-OUT Nando’s peri-peri chicken caeser wrap (top) offers customers good food on-the-go, while Seoul Fried Chicken’s fare is Edmonton’s talk of the town (below)

café by day and a restaurant by night — serves Poulet à la Dubrovnik ($23), a chicken breast with shrimp mousse, wild rice and dill beurre blanc, served with a chef’s-choice side. Jordan Carlson, chef de cuisine at Winnipeg’s Deseo Bistro, reports batter-fried chicken (served with house hot sauce for $5 per piece) is a fan favourite. “We brine it overnight and then we cold-smoke it, marinate it in buttermilk and fry it,” he says.

GETTING SAUCY

Chicken offers an opportunity to put the house brand in the diner’s kitchen

hen Cara Operations Limited acquired Groupe St-Hubert Inc. earlier this year, it didn’t

just gain a restaurant chain; it also took over two Quebec-based food manufacturing plants and two distribution centres; about two-thirds of St-Hubert sales take place outside restaurants, many through national grocery chains. St-Hubert produces a long-established range of branded gravies and sauces for home use, sold as powdered mixes, canned and fresh. Cara’s Swiss Chalet also retails powdered mixes for Dipping Sauce Mix, Homestyle Gravy Mix and Chicken Marinade Mix. Apart from offering a second revenue stream, branded sauces and mixes are a clever way to keep a brand in diners’ minds — even when they’re eating at home. The Keg Steakhouse + Bar markets a full range of sauces for chicken, steaks and ribs, which position The Keg as a “goto” location for grilled meats. International casual-dining chain Nando’s is also actively promoting its retail sauce line. The spicy peri-peri flavour is right on trend and is often shelved with “authentic” international bottled sauces to catch the eye of the adventurous home cook. It’s a strategy that can be adapted even by one-off locations to extend the brand right into the diner’s kitchen.

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FOOD FILE ences are on the rise, but the interest in spiciness has shifted away from fiery heat towards milder sweet-spicy combinations. In Vancouver, one-off spots serving Asian-style fried chicken wings are booming, such as Zabu Chicken and Red Chicken Korean Restaurant (both offering Korean-style wings) and the Vietnamese-Cambodian outlet Phnom Penh. Menas offers numerous examples of chains with new offerings fitting this niche: Prime Pubs’ Chicken Roti Wrap with vindaloo curry sauce and house-made sweet chiliapple chutney; Royal Oak Pubs’ Chicken Tikka Masala Pasty; Jugo Juice’s Kimchi, Chicken and Avocado Wrap; Church’s Chicken Canada’s Mango Habanero Chicken, and Wendy’s Canada’s Jalapeño Fresco Spicy Chicken. Nando’s peri-peri chicken concept also fits this trend perfectly.

CHICKEN IS THE NEW BEEF Red Robin’s new mouth-watering Marco Polo chicken burger includes melted Fontina cheese, peppered bacon, fresh arugula and housemade oven roasted tomato aioli spread on an artisan bun

THE WELL-TRAVELLED BIRD

The general fascination with exploring asyet-undiscovered international cuisines is alive and well, as illustrated by the success of Seoul Fried Chicken. “People already know about Mexican flavours; we’re seeing more specific types of ethnic flavours,” says Menas. Jerk, Cajun, Creole, Indian and Korean influ-

BUILDING A BETTER CHICKEN?

“The biggest development over the last few years is what I’ll call the sustainability area,” says Robin Horel, president and CEO of the Canadian Poultry and Egg Processors Council. Consumers are asking more questions about where and how their food is produced. Many factors contribute to the perception of sustainability, ranging from the carbon footprint to consumers’ health and animal welfare. “Antibiotic-free” chicken has become a hot topic lately; but Horel says consumers often misunderstand the terminology. “All chicken [for consumption] in Canada is antibioticfree,” he says. “We have testing for residue; we have a strong system as to when antibiotics must be withdrawn from feed. What we really mean is ‘raised without antibiotics’ [RWA]: during the life of those birds, no antibiotics were used.” Thus, conventionally raised birds are given antibiotics when they become ill, but they cannot be sold as food until the medication has

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FOOD FILE passed out of their systems. RWA chicken may never receive any antibiotics at all, so if they become sick, the chicken producer must choose between selling them to a different market or withholding treatment, and “if you don’t treat them, there’s an animal welfare issue,” Horel says, noting every change in the production system comes with potential repercussions. Chipotle Mexican Grill and Panera Bread have been sourcing some RWA chicken for many years. A&W laid claim to being the first national fast-food restaurant serving exclusively RWA birds in Canada. Last October, Subway announced it would make the transition to RWA in the U.S., but not in Canada, while McDonald’s Canada committed to completing a transition to RWA by 2018. TURNING A PROFIT

Oven-roasted chicken is out of style this year, but diners can’t seem to get enough of rotisserie concepts. On March 31, Ontariobased Cara Operations Limited solidified

its hold on this niche in the family-dining category when it acquired Quebec’s beloved Groupe St-Hubert Inc., which comprises 117 restaurants generating about $403 million annually. However, rotisserie is strong for every kind of restaurant. In Toronto, for instance, Flock Rotisserie, which opened in June 2015, focuses on RWA Ontario chicken (whole for $18 and half for $9.50 with no sides). It’s one of many establishments catering to the takeout audience. “People want to eat healthy food and rotisserie chicken is really healthy,” says manager Rinkesh Toshniwal. Daniel Boulud’s Café Boulud in the Four Seasons Hotel has added a French Rotisol to offer an approachable atmosphere, serving lovingly prepared Demi poulet with potatoes and one side for $29 and Poulet à la broche with potatoes and two sides for $68. “We want guests to feel comfortable,” says chef de cuisine Sylvain Assié. “When you have a chicken in front of you, you don’t have to cherish what’s on your plate.”

Bar Oso Whistler

Photography: Ema Peter

A BIRD IN THE HAND

“Another focus is clearly the innovation platform,” says Carter. Many chains are experimenting with handheld offerings and creative sides. For instance, gourmet burger chain Red Robin launched a contest to name its butterflied chicken breast with cheese, bacon, arugula and tomato aioli on a bun. Based on customer response, it joined the menu under the name Marco Pollo. In April, McDonald’s Canada launched The 12, a crispy or grilled chicken breast sandwich with cheese ($5.99). Menas also mentions the adventurous chicken finger offerings on Kelsey’s spring menu ($12.99): Clucky Chicken Parm with tomato sauce, parmesan and mozzarella; Coco Loco with coconut milk, shredded coconut and chopped peanuts; and Sweet and Salty, with a sweet caramel sauce and a coating of crushed pretzels. “They’re very bold-looking, a unique take on an otherwise very common item,” Menas says. “There’s a lot of opportunity for chicken.” l

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SEA BUCKTHORN

SMALL BUT MIGHTY

BY DANIELLE SCHALK

ea buckthorn (a.k.a. sea berry) has burst onto the Canadian dining scene thanks in part to the local food movement. Part of the Elaeagnceae family, these shiny, yellow-orange berries grow on the thorny deciduous shrub of the scientific name Hippophae rhamnoides L., which is native to the Himalayas and northwestern Europe. They are a rich source of antioxidants, natural sugars, fatty acids, vitamin A, C, E, and B2, as well as minerals such as potassium and iron. Though relatively new to North America, this hearty plant is well-suited to the Canadian climate and is now grown across the country. Chef Anne Desjardins calls the berries “the lemon of the north” due to their bright, citrusy taste. The fruit is often used in desserts, preserves and syrups. Toqué! chef Normand Laprise also incorporated sea buckthorn into Brise-vent — a beer designed for the Montreal restaurant.

ON THE MENU BEARFOOT BISTRO, Whistler, B.C.:

The spring tasting menu features Quebec

Tiny as they may be, sea buckthorn berries pack a powerful punch. Though roughly the size of a blueberry, they contain 12 times the vitamin C found in an orange. Due to its antioxidant and nutritional properties, sea buckthorn has been used in medicinal remedies in Asia and Europe for centuries. It has also become a popular ingredient in beauty and skincare products.

Foie Gras Terrine with sea buckthorn, apricot, grand fir, walnut and almond

toast (additional $16 with tasting menu). TOQUE!, Montreal: The Kalingo

Chocolate Torte features sea buckthorn

gel, vanilla chantilly, flax seed nougatine, hay caramel and ice cream ($17) THE PRUNE RESTAURANT, Stratford, Ont.: The chicken liver mousse is

served with sea buckthorn, strawberry and brioche (part of $69 three-course

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [SEA BUCKTHORN]

dinner menu). LÉGENDE, Quebec City: The elk

carpaccio features sea buckthorn and agaric ($7)

RESTAURANT CHANTECLER,

Toronto: The Rebound Date cocktail

features Dillon’s Gin, Yellow Chartreuse, ginger bitters, sea buckthorn tonic and soda ($12).

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

AVOCADO BY GRAEME GARLAND

he great flavour of avocados makes people forget their high fat content. A member of the Lauraceae family, the Mexican native fruit is also known as the alligator pear — thanks to its shape and rough green skin. Traditionally used to make guacamole, sandwiches and omelettes, the avocado is expanding its horizons and is being utilized in new and exciting ways — including in smoothies, pasta and brownies. The fruit contains eight grams of protein per serving, along with 11 grams of fat — 1.5 grams being saturated with the remainder being natural fats.

ON THE MENU HARLEM RESTAURANT, Toronto: Salmon

Salad includes a pan-fried salmon filet on a bed

of greens with lime and avocado hummus ($14). The Beachhouse Restaurant, Vancouver:

Grilled Cod Taco is served with grilled flour

tortilla, grilled cod, mango-avocado salsa and Valentina crema ($4.50). HEARTWOOD, Halifax: Veggie Curry Burger

(organic) includes curry mayo, avocado, lettuce, tomato, green onions and alfalfa sprouts ($14).

20 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [AVOCADOS]

AVOCADOS ARE GLUTEN-FREE, DAIRY-FREE, CHOLESTEROL-FREE, VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN.

LENTILS BY DANIELLE SCHALK

entils are in the global spotlight this year, thanks to the United Nations General Assembly declaring 2016, the International Year of Pulses. The term “pulse” is used to describe the edible seeds of legumes, such as lentils, dried beans and chickpeas. While once known for its use in a variety of ethnic dishes,

lentils have become a common element in North American cuisine. Due to their high protein content, lentils are particularly popular among the vegetarian and vegan communities. Lentils are also high in fibre and a good source of potassium, iron, folate and manganese. Pulse Canada ambassador, chef Michael Smith calls the legumes “nutritional

superstars.” Not only are lentils nutritious, but they are sustainable to produce and are widely grown in Canada’s Prairie provinces. Lentils are available in a variety of sizes and colours including red, green, brown and black. These little pulses are highly versatile and can be served as a side dish, in soups, used in baking or made into a cold salad.

ON THE MENU AROMA ESPRESSO BAR,

Toronto: The chain’s Sweet Potato Lentil Salad is made with roasted sweet potato, black lentils, red onion, crunchy granola, goat cheese, arugula and house-made lemon-olive oil dressing ($8.25). BOON BURGER CAFÉ, Winnipeg

and Barrie, Ont.: The Grilled Black Bean Patty is made with black

beans, red beans, lentils, brown

rice, onion, garlic, chili, cumin, tomatoes and fresh cilantro and is featured on burgers such as the Jalapeño Cheddar Burger ($8.95).

ESPAÑA, Vancouver: The PanFried Octopus & Morcilla is

served with red wine lentils, cho-

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [UNCOOKED FRENCH LENTILS]

rizo and oregano aioli ($13). LEE, Toronto: The Fresh Ground Green Curry Lentil Gratin is

served with winter vegetables, paneer cheese, polenta and papadum ($15). PANERA BREAD, locations across Ontario: The Lentil Quinoa Bowl with Cage-Free Egg features an

umami broth, green lentils, tomatoes, kale, spinach and brown rice ($8.49).

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

HOME GROWN

According to Pulse Canada, Canada is the world’s largest exporter of lentils to the global marketplace, selling to more than 100 countries each year. Green “Laird” and the red lentil are the most common varieties produced in Canada. Saskatchewan grows 99 per cent of Canada’s lentils, with the remainder coming from southern Alberta and Manitoba. FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

PORK BELLY BY ANDREW SPELLER

ork bellies are the Rolls-Royce of meat. The savoury delicacy can be pan-fried, seared, spit-roasted, slow-cooked, baked or broiled. It has an extremely high fat and calorie count — each ounce of pork belly contains 14.8 grams of fat and 147 calories — and while pork belly has experienced a slight decline on menus throughout the past year, the opposite is true for its presence in entrées; “Pork belly mentions have increased by 13.8 per cent [throughout Canada] from Q1 2015 compared to Q1 2016,” says Kristin Menas, associate editor, Canada & Adult Beverage at Technomic, Inc.

ON THE MENU MEAN BAO, Toronto: Pork belly bao is served with cucumber and hoisin sauce ($3.95) GADO GADO, Montreal:

Bakpao Gapit is steamed buns and braised pork belly ($6).

Tuc Craft Kitchen, Vancouver: Trois Viandes is Denver leg

of venison, Wild Rose Heritage Farm wild boar mousse, cured pork belly, gnocchi gâteau and red currant glace ($26). THE BROOKLYN

WAREHOUSE, Halifax: The

Pig Mack is made with ground

Oulton’s pork loin and belly, PEI old cheddar, Romaine heart, onion and ‘Pig Mack’ sauce on a Stone Hearth’s white bun ($12).

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [SMOKED PORK BELLY]

ALL ABOUT FLAVOUR

The health benefits stemming from the meat are few and far between, as it is mostly made up of fat. While low amounts of protein and iron are present, not many other pro-health ingredients are. The meat is all about its savoury flavour, which is typically balanced out on the health side as it is predominantly cooked and served with healthy vegetables and sides.

22 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

BRUSSELS SPROUTS BY DANIELLE SCHALK

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [BRUSSEL SPROUTS]

The Brussels sprout is believed to have gotten its name due to its longstanding popularity in Brussels, Belgium. The area of origin for this vegetable is unclear, but it is believed it was first cultivated in large quantities in Belgium in the late 16th century. U.S. president Thomas Jefferson introduced Brussels sprouts to North America in 1812.

espite the bad rap they once got in North American pop-culture, Brussels sprouts have gained popularity with chefs and diners alike. The Brussels sprout is a cruciferous vegetable — like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and kale — which goes by the scientific name Brassica oleracea. These small sprouts grow in a helical pattern along thick stalks and resemble miniature cabbages. They can be purchased still on the stalk or pre-removed. While boiling was once the popular method of preparation, Brussels sprouts are now commonly served roasted, sautéed or even raw and shaved into a salad. They are often paired with pork products which complement the sweet, nutty flavour the sprouts gain when roasted. Like other cruciferous vegetables, the Brussels sprout is highly nutritious; they are high in cholesterol-reducing fibre, Vitamins C and A, folate and antioxidants. The vegetable is also recognized as helping reduce the risk of cancer, specifically bladder, breast, colon, lung, prostate and ovarian cancer.

ON THE MENU THE FLYING PIG, Vancouver:

Crispy Brussels sprouts are offered as a

VIJ’S RESTAURANT, Vancouver: The

side at all three locations and feature lemon,

Salad Trio includes cauliflower-quinoa

parmesan and capers ($6.50).

pilaf, tomato-cumin Brussels sprouts and

MCCAFÉ, Toronto: McDonalds’ standalone

FAMOSO NEAPOLITAN PIZZERIA, locations

featuring shredded carrots, Granny Smith apple

featuring oven-roasted Brussels sprouts, prosciutto

McCafés offer a Kale & Brussels Sprouts Salad

across Canada: The Cavoletti is a white pizza

slices, corn and grape tomatoes with honey-

crisps, gorgonzola cheese, dates, walnuts and

balsamic vinaigrette ($6.87).

honey ($16.25).

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

lentil-wheat berry salad ($19). WEST RESTAURANT, Vancouver: The

Smoked Yarrow Meadows Duck Breast is served with celeriac, Brussels sprouts and blood orange jus ($40.50).

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FREEKEH BY ANDREW SPELLER

reekeh is the new quinoa. It is also a savoury happy accident from history. Legend has it more than 2,000 years ago, a crop of wheat was burned in the Middle East and, instead of throwing away what was left, the farmers rubbed the chaff, cooked the remnants and discovered what is now call “freekeh.” The word stems from the Arabic ‘faraka’, which refers to the wheat-roasting process. The roasted grain is a cousin of the rice family and possesses a smoky taste. It has a chewy texture, is loaded with fibre and protein and has a very low sodium count. It can be used as a side to a meat or fish dish or be the base for a healthy and delicious veggie-stir-fry. It’s quickly becoming North America’s new darling ingredient in salads.

ON THE MENU AROMA ESPRESSO BAR, Canada: Freekeh Salad is served with freekeh, black quinoa and sprouted brown

rice blended with organic baby kale, tomato, cucumber, carrot, pickle, red onion, parsley, and za’ atar seasoning, topped with labneh cheese and served with housemade lemon-olive oil dressing ($8.25). TAMAM FINE PALESTINIAN CUISINE, Vancouver:

toasted Freekeh is served with green wheat steamed in baked chicken ($17.50), lamb roast ($19.50) or vegetarian ($11.50). UNION RESTAURANT, Toronto: Legumes served with

broccoli, rainbow chard, freekeh and salsa verde ($18).

WHAT THE FREEK? So, why freekeh? “Nobody was really doing it,” says Daniel Davidson, VP Marketing for Aroma

Canada. He said one roadblock Aroma faced after the introduction of its freekeh-infused salad was educating customers as to what it is. “When we first introduced it, we had to do a lot of sampling of the freekeh itself. We use a blend of black quinoa and sprouted brown rice freekeh”.

24 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [HEALTHY FREEKEH IN WOODEN SPOON]

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KIM-CHI BY GRAEME GARLAND

riginating in Korea and serving as its official national dish, kim-chi is comprised of a bevy of vegetables and seasonings — including cabbage, radishes, scallions, cucumbers, salt and garlic — which are largely dictated by what’s in season. Aging kim-chi in jars aids in its flavour’s expansion and development. The dish’s preparation and ingredient list not only differs seasonally, but regionally as well. Depending on which part of Korea you are in, you will find different variations of the dish.

ON THE MENU THE CARBON BAR, Toronto: Berkshire Pork Ssäm is

served with lettuce wraps, Korean hot sauce, crackling,

SEASONAL SELECTIONS SPRING: Fresh herbs and vegetables

garlic ($22). SURA KOREAN ROYAL

CUISINE RESTAURANT,

Vancouver: Kim-chi–Jjim includes steamed kim-chi

and tender pork with mixed vegetables ($25).

AUTUMN: Salted cabbage leaves, potato stems, fresh anchovies

RESTAURANT OMMA,

WINTER: Fresh radish strips, parsley, pine nuts, pears, chestnuts, fresh red pepper

($10).

26 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

Montreal: Pajun is a Korean

pancake with spring onions, carrots and kim-chi (fermented cabbage with shrimp paste)

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [KOREAN KIMCHI SALAD]

SUMMER: Radishes, cucumbers and freshly ground chili peppers

kim-chi, coriander and roasted

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OLIVE OIL BY GRAEME GARLAND

ON THE MENU SPACCO RESTAURANT, Toronto: Carpaccio is served with thinly sliced rare beef, lemon, honey, mushrooms, extra virgin olive oil and shaved parmigiano ($14). PAN ON THE DANFORTH, Toronto: Sesame Baked Feta is a premium feta crusted with sesame seeds,

NOT TOO HOT NOW Cooking olive oil at too high a heat compro-

mises its taste. Extra virgin olive oil starts to deteriorate at approximately 210 to 216 degrees Celsius as the unrefined particles begin to burn.

28 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

baked and served with olive tapenade ($10).

SIENA, Vancouver: Linguine Con Vongole features wine-steamed local manila clams, chilies, garlic and olive oil ($20). FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [OLIVES AND OLIVE OIL]

live oil is made predominantly from olive trees in the Mediterranean Basin — countries such as Italy, Spain and Portugal — and is one of the most versatile ingredients in the world. Outside of the kitchen, olive oil serves as a crucial ingredient in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and soaps. Olive oil also gets a lot of attention for its high concentration of monounsaturated fat, which is approximately 75 per cent of its overall fat count. Comparatively, soybean oil only has 50 to 55 per cent of its fat coming from monounsaturated fat. Olive oil has also been linked to cancer prevention in recent years, with studies showing it reduces the risk of breast, respiratory tract, upper digestive and lower digestive tract cancers. It also contains high levels of vitamins E and K — just one tablespoon of olive oil has 10 per cent of the recommended daily dose of those vitamins.

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PANEER BY ANDREW SPELLER

soft, fresh South Asian cheese, paneer is used predominantly in Middle-Eastern inspired recipes originating in India, Afghanistan, Iran, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Lemon juice, vinegar and citric acid are added to hot milk to help separate the curds and whey. The curds are then drained through cheesecloth and any excess water is pushed out. The cheese is dipped into chilled water to help strengthen its texture and shape its outward appearance — longer chilling results in a harder cheese.

ON THE MENU PUKKA, Toronto: Stuffed paneer is

served layered with oyster mushrooms and fresh spinach over a base of creamy pistachio korma sauce ($15.90).. THE COPPER CHIMNEY, Toronto:

Paneer Tikka is served as Indian cheese cubes marinated in yogurt, garlic, ginger

restaurant menus overseas, especially in India. McDonald’s India has a McSpicy Paneer chicken sandwich and a Paneer Wrap; Taco Bell India has a paneer and potato burrito; and popular pizza chains such as Pizza Hut and Domino’s offer paneer as a topping.

and tandoori spices ($11.95). HANDI CUISINE, Vancouver: Paneer

Pakora is cottage cheese fingers coated with Indian spices and deep fried ($8).

CURRY TWIST, Toronto: Tawa Paneer

is browned Indian cheese sautéed with tempered spices, onions, bell peppers, tomatoes and fresh coriander. Served with mint chutney ($8.95).

30 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [PIECES OF PANEER CHEESE]

FAST-FOOD FAVOURITE Paneer is a popular menu item on many fast-food

Striking GOLD PROUDLY CANADIAN,THE YUKON GOLD POTATO TURNS 50

BY ERIC ALISTER

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [YUKON BABY POTATOES]

he Yukon Gold potato, arguably the most popular variety of potato in North American kitchens, is quietly celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Today, this versatile and much-loved Canadian vegetable variety enjoys immense popularity among top chefs, foodies and food editors alike. Rachael Ray often includes it in her recipes, Queen Elizabeth II regularly requests it at her table and just this past February, renowned celebrity chef, Wolfgang Puck, served 1,500 Yukon Gold potatoes topped with Caspian caviar at the 88th annual Oscars. The Yukon Gold features prominently on the menu at the Toronto-based CN Tower’s 360 Restaurant. John Morris, executive chef at the tower’s famous eatery, has a particular fondness for the ingredient’s versatility and includes it in a variety of preparations — from mashed to fried. “One of the things that’s awesome about Yukon Gold potatoes is you can do almost anything with them,” he says. While some potatoes are only suitable for certain applications, with the right skill-set Morris says a cook can utilize the Yukon Gold in a diverse range of dishes. The 360 Restaurant uses the Yukon Gold exclusively for its side of mashed potatoes; its twice-fried hand-cut frites, served with sea salt and truffle aioli; and in its thick-cut fries, cooked in duck fat and served with sea salt and fresh thyme ($9 each)

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

McCain Foods, based in Florenceville-Bristol, N.B., also endorses the Yukon Gold potato, using it in its 7/16” Skin On Straight Cut fries which, according to McCain Foods marketing director, Greg Boyer, helps give the product a consistent, year-round creamy taste and home-style appearance. “Yukon Gold was bred in Canada and is one of a very few varieties of potatoes known by name to consumers in North America. That’s one key reason for the variety’s use in specific products we make,” he says. “As a proudly Canadian business, McCain has used the Canadian-bred Yukon Gold potato for years in our products. It’s a great variety and, in our experience, we have seen its mass appeal with foodservice operators, chefs and Canadian consumers.” South of the border, former White House chef and author of Dining at the White House, John Moeller, served the Canadian spud to three First Families. “By and large, it’s a very nice potato. I like the creamy, butteriness of it,” says Moeller. “There is eye appeal, too, with the tint of yellow that, when you now look at it next to a white potato, [the white potato] doesn’t look quite as pleasing. So aesthetically, it has its qualities too.” The cross-breeding process, which would ultimately give birth to the Yukon Gold potato as we know it, first began in 1959 by the late agricultural breeder Gary Johnston and his graduate team at the University of Guelph in Ontario. “He was a brilliant potato scientist who created this rock-star potato, which had a profound impact on the North-American food culture,” explains Alexander York, a Yukon Gold potato archivist and son of Hans von Sivers, a laboratory technician who worked with Johnston’s team for 20 years. “It’s a very complicated process, crossing potato varieties. My father was always amazed at Gary’s ability to put these complicated puzzles together.” Now a culinary staple, the Yukon Gold is the outcome of six laborious years and 66 crossings. Johnston initially named his creation “Yukon” after the Yukon River, but a close friend, Charlie Bishop, suggested adding “Gold” to its name. “‘Yukon Gold’ is such a brilliant name and I don’t think it would have been successful without that name,” York argues. “It just touched an emotional button.” Although perfected in 1966, it wasn’t until 1980 that the Yukon Gold entered the Canadian food market. Internationally, the potato made headlines in 1997 when Hillary Clinton falsely claimed everything on the menu at a White House dinner — including the Yukon Golds — was American. The New York Times promptly pointed out the mistake and in doing so, catapulted the product into international recognition. Despite what York repeatedly describes as Yukon Gold’s “Hollywood status,” most Canadians outside of the culinary world still remain unfamiliar with its origin. So, the next time you use the golden tubers on your menu, remember to share Johnston’s story with your staff and diners and bring some colour to the topic of potatoes. l FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

CONGRATULATIONS FROM THE KML TEAM Kostuch Media Ltd. is proud to announce that on June 14, 2016, George Brown Collegeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Centre for Hospitality & Culinary Arts conferred an Honorary Bachelor of Business Administration on Rosanna Caira, editor/ publisher of Foodservice and Hospitality and Hotelier magazine, in recognition of her outstanding contributions to the hospitality industry.

All of us here at Kostuch Media congratulate Rosanna on this well-deserved distinction.

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2016-06-15 3:57 PM

GOING FOR GOLD The 2016 Culinary Olympics (also known as the Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung) takes place in October in Erfurt, Germany and Culinary Team Canada is gunning for gold. The event, which began in 1896, occurs every four years and features individual and team competitions in virtually every aspect of gastronomy — hot and cold cuisine, pâtisserie, baking, gelato and decorative food art such as vegetable and fruit carving. F&H wants you to get to know the people behind the chef’s whites as they prepare to go for gold. By Andrew Speller

CULINARY TEAM CANADA F&H: Do you have any superstitions in the kitchen?

Scott Jaeger: I have a spoon from Japan and it’s been with me for 20 years. It

doesn’t have a name, but everyone I’ve ever worked with in a kitchen knows it’s

BORN TO LEAD

SCOTT JAEGER

ith a wealth of worldwide culinary experience under his belt, Team Canada captain Scott Jaeger is well-suited to lead. The B.C. resident and his wife Stephanie own the award-winning Pear Tree restaurant in Vancouver, which boasts a coveted Zagat rating. Jaeger began his career under the world-famous Bruno Marti, which opened the door for him to work in the kitchen of London’s Waldorf Hotel. He then honed his skills in France, Switzerland and Australia before returning to Canada. His prowess and ingenuity in the kitchen have been recognized the world over. He is vice-conseilleur culinaire of the esteemed Châine des Rôtisseurs, a member of the Canadian Culinary Federation and a board member of the B.C. Chef ’s Table Society. His accomplishments include winning the BC Restaurant and Food Services Association’s Restaurateur of the Year title (1998), Vancouver magazine’s Chef of the Year honours and the Georgia Straight’s Chef of the Year award (2007). FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

“Scott’s spoon” and it must be on my table in the kitchen. F&H: What do you want the culinary world to know about Canada?

SJ: People are not familiar with ‘Canadian cuisine.' I guess the closest thing we’ve had is ‘Canadian contemporary’, but people didn’t know what that was. We have some amazing ingredients in this country and the fish from the west coast cannot be beat. F&H: What advice would you give to aspiring chefs?

SJ: The best advice I can give to a young cook is a quote I will steal from Bruno Marti: “Find a great chef and work for them.” Choosing to do an apprenticeship in a good kitchen is key to long-term success in this industry.

IN 2009, JAEGER WAS INDUCTED INTO THE RESTAURANT HALL OF FAME

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

CULINARY TEAM CANADA

STONE BRINGS YEARS OF NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION EXPERIENCE TO THE TEAM

VETERAN COMPETITOR

RYAN STONE

elping create the menu for Earls Kitchen+Bar and working as the executive chef at California’s Levi’s Stadium (home to the San Francisco 49ers) are just a few of chef Ryan Stone’s past culinary experiences. Stone has worked in kitchens throughout France, England, Australia, Hong Kong, Germany and the U.S. and is a Team Canada Culinary Olympic veteran — as well as a former competitor in the bi-annual Bocuse d’Or competition. He has also worked with Team Canada captain Scott Jaeger as a sous-chef in Jaeger’s Vancouver-based Pear Tree kitchen.

managers and coaches are compe-

two cooks prepare the first course,

here — how were you selected for

tition veterans with years of experi-

two cooks prepare the main course

Team Canada?

ence leading teams, in addition to

and one cook prepares the dessert

Ryan Stone: A lot of hard work and

[winning] their own international

course. The captain assists in all

many years of doing national and

gold medals.

areas of the kitchen where needed.

F&H: Does each team member

F&H: What unique culinary quality

RS: Each team member has their

RS: I have a lot of experience in

F&H: Tell us about the road to get

international competitions to build my experience. F&H: What does each team member bring to the competition?

have a designated role to play?

own assignment. In the ‘cold com-

do you bring to the team?

large-volume foodservice in addi-

RS: The team is well-rounded. The

petition’ each member is responsi-

tion to fine-dining, which helps with

core cooking members have diverse

ble for his/her own category — buf-

the meticulous planning necessary

cooking backgrounds and experi-

fet platters, tapas, plated meals and

to be successful at the interna-

ence in numerous competitions. The

desserts. In the ‘hot competition,'

tional level.

34 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

HOME-GROWN TALENT

JASON HARRIS

ason Harris is a WestCoast chef who trained in B.C. and has spent his career working in B.C and Alberta. After graduating from Vancouver Community College’s Culinary Arts program, Harris has been flexing his culinary muscles as a chef at the Fairmont Pacific Rim, a consultant chef at Fraiche Restaurant and executive chef at Callaghan Country in Whistler, B.C. He currently serves as the Fairmont Vancouver Airport’s Globe@YVR restaurant’s executive sous-chef, where he helps craft such delicious menu offerings as lobster and prawn bisque served with squash, vanilla, crème frâiche, pea tendrils and pumpkin seeds; wild mushroom ravioli with seasonal foraged mushroom and truffle pecorino; and cedar-wrapped B.C. salmon with fingerling potato, green bean Lyonnaise and whiskey-maple mustard beurre blanc.

HARRIS COMPLETED HIS APPRENTICSHIP AT THE FAIRMONT VANCOUVER AIRPORT HOTEL WITH TOP HONOURS — EARNING HIM THE CARL SCHIER APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR AWARD

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F&H: What is your fondest food memory?

Jason Harris: Helping my mother in the kitchen

when I was younger. Peeling “chow fun” noodles by hand before she cooked them, while trying not to tear them into small pieces. Years later, I found out you can microwave them slightly to make the noodles a bit more pliable. F&H: How were you selected for Team Canada? JH: I’ve known several of the team members

throughout my career — either through mentorship, employment, or academics. I have trained under these chefs and have assisted them with competitions. F&H: What’s your favourite meal to cook

at home?

JH: A grilled-cheese sandwich. Good sourdough bread, thick cut. Nice cheese, preferably noth-

ing too outrageous — a thin slice of Havarti and Muenster and nice aged cheddar; good butter, slowly cooked so that the surface forms a golden crust, but not too cooked so you cut the top of your mouth. Salt and pepper at the end. Perfect.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

SWEET SUCCESS

FUMIKO MORETON

essert wiz and pastry artist Fumiko Moreton graduated top of her class from the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, then apprenticed at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport Hotel and the Terminal City Club, where she now serves as pastry chef. She has quickly become known for her innovative dessert offerings such as Pumpkin Cheese Cake with Earl Grey anglaise; Apple Tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream; and the Paris Brest made with choux pastry and praline cream. Moreton’s skill as a cake decorator won her Vancouver’s Quady wine-dessert competition as well as the Lindt Chocolate competition held in Calgary. Her international culinary competition wins include a silver medal from Chicago’s America Culinary Classic as a member of team B.C. and gold and silver standings at Germany’s IKA Culinary Olympics in 2008 and 2012, respectively. She coached Team Canada’s 2011 Culinary Junior Team, which garnered silver in the cold competition and won another silver standing at Switzerland’s Igeho Culinary Competition in 2013.

F&H: What’s your game

F&H: Which country are

F&H: What’s your favourite

Olympics?

competing against?

FM: Italian and French foods

plan for the Culinary

Fumiko Moreton: The other

you looking forward to FM: The Scandinavian

meal to cook at home?

are equally my favourites to

countries have been tough

cook at home. Pasta-making

beat. We all strive to be the

competitors in the past, as

is particularly relaxing.

very best and are competing

well as Germany. For the

at the same level. However,

‘cold show’, Hong Kong and

my experience with these

Singapore have been strong

competitions, my obsession

competitors as well. I look

with perfection and, on top

forward to seeing what all

of it all, my teammates, are

competitors have to bring

what’s going to beat them.

this year.

competitors will be hard to

36 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

MORETON MASTERED HER CHOCOLATE AND SUGAR SHOWPIECE SKILLS UNDER AWARDWINNING CHEF EWALD NOTTER FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

CULINARY TEAM CANADA

HULEY HAS WON NUMEROUS LOCAL, NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL ICE CARVING AWARDS

F&H: What is your fondest food memory?

Cameron Huley: My wedding dinner — not only because I was there with my new wife, family and friends, but chef Takashi Murakami, who I apprenticed under, thought it would be funny to send me out a hot dog instead of the dinner we ordered. But, hot dogs are probably one of my favourite things to eat, as funny as that sounds, given all the culinary talent I have. But sometimes, the best thing are the things you loved as a child.

GLOBAL INFLUENCES

CAMERON HULEY

t the age of 16, Cameron Huley began his culinary career at Winnipeg’s Elmhurst Golf and Country Club, which led him to study culinary arts at Red River College in Winnipeg. By 23, he obtained his Red Seal from Maid of the Mist Hospitality College in Niagara Falls, then returned home to cook at the St. Charles Golf and Country Club under renowned chef Takashi Murakami. In 2009, Huley assumed the role of executive sous-chef at the Four Points by Sheraton, Winnipeg South, where he helped open the kitchen. He then fulfilled a life-long dream when he accepted a four-month contract touring the world as executive chef aboard a Celebrity Cruise Lines ship, the Celebrity Silhouette. Huley is no stranger to global competitions — he was a member of Manitoba’s 2004 Culinary Olympics team and National Team Canada for Luxembourg, Chicago and the Culinary Olympics in Erfurt in 2008. When Cameron is not in the kitchen, he can be found enjoying another passion — ice carving.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

F&H: Tell us about your

journey to Team Canada selection?

CH: My journey started back in 2006 when I was competing for the national spot for the Bocuse d’Or competition. That is where I met our Team Manager — J.C. Felicalla — for the first time and was invited [to be a member of] the Olympic team for the 2008 Culinary Olympics. F&H: What’s your favourite meal to cook at home?

CH: I am big on Japanese

cuisine and really slow-cooked barbecue foods — but with wood, not propane. FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

CULINARY TEAM CANADA

RENNIE ONCE REPRESENTED AND PROMOTED CANADIAN CUISINE WITH THE CANADIAN DELEGATION IN TAIWAN

COOKING IS IN HIS BLOOD

IAIN RENNIE

t age 13, Team Canada chef Iain Rennie could be found selling pâté to restaurants on his bicycle. The culinary world is in his blood — his grandfather was a commercial baker and his father an executive chef. A Parksville, B.C. native, Rennie spent time in the United Kingdom, learning international culinary traits at the Savoy Hotel where he worked as Anton Mossiman’s First Commis at Mosimann’s, a private dining club in Belgravia, London. Back in B.C., he cut his teeth as sous-chef at the Pan-Pacific and Fairmont Empress Hotel. He was promoted to chef at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport Hotel and then executive chef at Vancouver’s Fairmont Waterfront, the Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa and the Oak Bay Beach Hotel. Rennie currently heads the team at the Delta Grand Okanagan Resort and Conference Centre as its executive chef, creating dishes such as its famous Apple Cobb Salad made with roasted nuts, dried apples, bacon and fresh greens; smoked salmon chowder and Ahi-tuna.

38 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

F&H: Why were you chosen for Team Canada?

Iain Rennie: Winning a gold in the 2004 Gold World Culinary Olympics [helped raise my national culinary profile]. A few years later, I got a call from [Team Canada manager, J.C. Felicella who asked] if I would like to be a member of Team Canada. Once I heard who was on the team, I accepted right away. F&H: What unique culinary quality do you bring to the team?

IR: Working well with other team mem-

bers and wanting to be the best I can be. F&H: Which country do you think will be your stiffest competition?

IR: There are many great countries

competing in this Olympics, such as the Swiss team and the German Team.

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On the

WORLD Stage

JAMES OLBERG AIMS TO PROVE CANADA’S CULINARY PROWESS AT BOCUSE D’OR 2017 STORY BY DANIELLE SCHALK PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE CRANE

F&H: As Canadians,

a team to raise funds. We’ve done

emphasis on this

will likely do eight or nine more.

countries do, how

silent auctions with sponsors and

we don’t put as much

three [fundraisers] so far and we

competition as other

We do things like dinners and

does that affect you

other chefs.

James Olberg:

F&H: What advice do you have

d’Or has not been

competitions?

as a competitor?

Unfortunately, Bocuse embraced enough in this country. This is a

ith less than six months left of a two-year preparation period, James Olberg is taking a break from his position as executive chef at Vancouver’s Coast restaurant to focus on preparing for Bocuse d’Or 2017, which will take place in Lyon, France next January. In order to make it to the global competition, he has already competed and triumphed at a Canadian selection competition, as well as a regional qualifying round. A former member of Culinary Team Canada, Olberg says he was drawn to culinary competitions early on in his career as a way to challenge himself. As a chef with “oldschool” training, Olberg dedicated himself to studying modern cuisine in preparation for January’s competition, a process he describes as being similar to studying fashion. “Bocuse d’Or is so unique and so innovative in a lot of ways, so I have to keep abreast of things,” he explains. As the competition nears, Olberg and his three-man support team — which includes Canada’s next Bocuse d’Or candidate Trevor Ritchie — are focused on ironing out the little details while they await the announcement of this year’s required proteins.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

for chefs interested in culinary JO: The gold shouldn’t be the

goal. The goal should be to get as

world cup competition

good as you can so that someday

— we’re representing

you can help someone else, or

Canada against the

look back and say I really pushed

top 24 countries in the

myself. It’s about getting up in

world — and people

the morning, falling down and still

don’t know about it. [In

getting up the next morning to

terms of support,] we

try it again…It’s the journey and

are at a monster disad-

the experiences that make you

vantage, there is no doubt about

a better person and hopefully a

it. We have some things to work

better chef.

on and part of what I have to do when I leave Bocuse d’Or is help the next candidate raising funds and awareness. F&H: What expenses are

F&H: What do you consider

your career’s greatest accomplishment?

JO: Trevor Ritchie…He’s grown up to be an amazing man. I’m

involved in participating in

very proud of him as a person

raise funds?

Bocuse d’Or candidate and I’m

Bocuse d’Or and how do you

and a chef and now he’s the next

JO: The biggest expense is get-

very proud of that. I know that I

ting there. It’s flights, hotel rooms,

played some part in that — not a

expenses in France, food prod-

lot, but a little bit — and it makes

ucts [for the competition], packing

me feel good; I have affected the

and shipping [of equipment].

next generation in a positive way.

We also have to pay for all of our practices and associated travel expenses…Our team manager [Cornelia Volino] is responsible for raising funds and the logistics for Bocuse d’Or. It’s really up to us as FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

MELLOW YELLOW Churn84 brings European-style, barrel-churned butter to Canada BY AMY BOSTOCK

arrel-churned in Stirling, Ont., Churn84 has quickly become the butter of choice for bakers and chefs. The European-style product offers a higher butterfat content — 82 per cent compared to the North American standard of 80 per cent — and 20 per cent less moisture than typical high-output butters. Three years ago, Stirling Creamery, parent company of Churn84, discovered the challenges of finding a reliable source of European-produced butter and took matters into its own hands. “We found there was a fair amount of imported butter coming into Canada because we didn’t have all the products we should have in our portfolio to meet operator needs,” says Greg Nogler, VP of marketing at Stirling. Churn84 can now be found in restaurants and hotels across Canada including Four Seasons hotels and renowned Toronto-based Nadege pâtisserie. Churn84 enjoys its strongest popularity in the Ontario marketplace and, more recently, in Quebec. “That’s a good indicator because Quebecers know good food,” says Nogler. Churn84 also recently registered a trademark in the U.S. and has plans for American expansion in the next 18 months,

F&H: Where did the name, Churn84 come from?

Greg Nogler: The name focuses on the fact our butters

are barrel-churned — which is quite unusual these days — and the 84 represents the European-style, high-fat (84 per cent) butter. F&H: What makes Churn84 different?

GN: Butter has been commoditized over the years because producers use it as a bit of a balancing piece in terms of making dairy products. It’s easy to make butter, store it in the freezer and use it when you need it. We take a very different approach. Ours is batch produced (from 1,200 to 1,500 lbs per batch) versus the 50,000 lb-batches used by big producers. F&H: How are Churn 84 butters utilized

in restaurants?

GN: Our butter sheet for making laminated dough from

scratch is a restaurant favourite. When pastry chefs make

MOBILE MARKETING A brand steeped in tradition, Stirling Creamery was

founded in 1925 and remains a privately held company. Its master butter-maker has been producing barrel-churned Stirling products for 37 years. “We’ve got real heritage to the organization and a feeling of doing things in a unique fashion,” says Greg Nogler, VP of marketing at Stirling, who set out to find a marketing tool that spoke to that heritage. “I wanted to find something that communicated the simplicity of days gone by and when I saw photos of cargo bikes in Europe, I knew I’d found it and it would be eye catching and interesting.” The Churn84 Butter Bike travels to stores, restaurants and trade shows to do product demonstrations. “When we bring the bikes to stores, the product sells out. It also encourages communication.”

40 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

things such as croissants, typically they have to take butter in bulk and sheet it — a labourintensive job — so we’ve taken Churn 84 and made it available in a 2lb sheet to take the labour out of it. We also offer Chef’s Rolls for tabletop service in ramekins and serving dishes as well as one pound bars for baking.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

MIXING IT UP Walter All-Natural Craft Caesar Mix offers Canada’s only Ocean Wise alternative BY AMY BOSTOCK

F&H: Why has Walter become so popular in Canadian bars and restaurants?

Aaron Harowitz: We don’t use any MSG, high-fructose corn

syrup, colour or flavour and we use real clam juice from a sustainable fishery so we’re Ocean Wise certified.

hile the Caesar boasts the title of most popular cocktail in Canada — more than 350 million consumed each year — the country’s leading mass-market Caesar mix is actually made south of the border. For childhood friends Aaron Harowitz and Zack Silverman, this was a bone of contention. So in 2013, the B.C. natives gave up their days jobs (Silverman was a lawyer and Horowitz ran a design studio) and set off on their quest to produce a completely Canadian Caesar mix. The result, Walter All-Natural Craft Caesar Mix, is Canada’s first all-natural craft Caesar mix. Made in small batches using ingredients such as vine-ripened tomatoes, grated horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce and Ocean Wise-certified clam juice from a sustainable fishery, Walter has become a bar staple across the country. “We currently have Walter in more than 150 bars in Toronto alone,” says Horowitz.

F&H: How long did it take to perfect the recipe?

AH: Taste is hugely important

for us and we spent a long time working on recipe development. The final product took over a year of testing and refining to perfect. It was a lot of trial and error, using our friends and family to test many iterations of the product. F&H: Is the product named

after Walter Chell, inventor of the Caesar?

AH: Yes, but we also chose the

name Walter in honour of all the great Walters in history: Walter “Clyde” Frazier, Walt Whitman, Walter White, Walter “Sweetness” Payton, Walter Gretzky, Walter Cronkite, Walter Matthau and Walt Disney.

SUSTAINABLY SPEAKING In January 2015, Walter All-Natural Craft Caesar Mix

added Ocean Wise recommended to its list of accolades, making it Canada’s first Ocean Wise recommended Caesar mix. In addition to being made with all natural ingredients and free of added MSG, Walter Caesar also uses ocean-friendly clam juice from the North Atlantic. The Ocean Wise designation is the Vancouver Aquarium’s assurance for an ocean-friendly seafood choice that helps ensure the health of the oceans for generations to come. The Ocean Wise symbol on Walter Caesar labels lets eco-conscious consumers know about the company’s commitment to sustainability.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

POURING FOR PROFITS

BAR REPORT

THE

2016

A MORE DISCERNING GUEST IS SHIFTING THE LANDSCAPE

C BY JENNIFER FEBBRARO

anadians aren’t drinking the way they used to. Not only have total alcohol sales within the foodservice industry dipped by five per cent, according to Toronto-based The NPD Group, but consumption in nearly every segment of the market has dropped — with the exception of craft beer. Yet, despite the reduction in alcoholic orders, the production of specialty wines, beers and spirits is proliferating. Canadians love their product, but the market is certainly shifting. The emergence of the millennial consumer plays a big role. According to Statistics Canada, this noteworthy demographic — as powerful as the baby boomers before them — makes up nearly one third of Canada’s population. And this generation doesn’t imbibe quite the same way their parents did. A cross-Canada look at the commercial industry shows a four-per-cent dip in wine consumption, a shocking 12-per-cent drop in domestic beer and a plateauing of imported beer.

42 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

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PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM

OF CANADIAN ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION

Mark Dempsey, The NPD Group’s director of Client Development, explains the overall decrease in alcohol sales. “The number-1 reason is value,” he says. “People are trying to save money. They will still order that steak, but get tap water or iced tea.” This fits with recent data from Restaurants Canada, which states sales at bars, as opposed to restaurants, were down by 6.6 per cent in 2015 compared to 2014. Meanwhile, the NPD Group reported restaurant visits increased by two per cent compared to the previous year and 28 per cent of restaurant traffic is the millennial cohort. The shift seems to represent the consumer’s

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

preference for a different type of experience — one which usually accompanies a meal. “But another big reason for the decrease in sales is health,” explains Dempsey. “We’re seeing customers who will opt for a healthier beverage option or some who will opt to not have a drink at all.” Kristin Menas, associate editor, Canada & Adult Beverage, at Chicago-based Technomic, says beverage menus are also changing. “Our MenuMonitor database shows beer has decreased on menus by 13.6 per cent, but red wine has grown by 3.2 per cent,” she says. “We’re also seeing new items such as hard ciders being added, whether in bottles or as

an ingredient in cocktails, and adult milkshakes, an indulgent, dessert-like drink spiked with various spirits.” “Restaurants are becoming more creative in terms of the way they serve alcohol,” says Menas. “There’s also a return of the tiki-bar concept.” Not only are some independents finding success with the kitschy throwback, even The Pickle Barrel offered a limited-time Tiki and Tacos menu with island-inspired tacos and tropical drinks in classic tiki glassware. The good news is Canadian producers of beer, wine and spirits have never been more hands-on or invested in the life-cycle of their creations and the products have garnered interna-

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

POURING FOR PROFITS

BEER

Part of the reason for the drop in beer sales is people don’t drink the same way they used to. “It’s not like people just hang out in bars the way they used to,” says Jamie Rilett, vicepresident of Ontario Operations at Restaurants Canada. “We’re finding more young people prefer the casual-dining segment to the bar. For example, before or after a hockey game, a team might go to a Kelsey’s or something similar.” The craft-beer category continues to rise. Doris Miculan-Bradley, a professor at George Brown’s School of Hospitality & Tourism Management, lives near the Toronto-based Bellwoods Brewery. “I always see line-ups to purchase its ‘beer-of-the-week’,” says MiculanBradley. “That’s not something you’ll see at the Beer Store.” She also notes small-batch and purchase at point of production is trending because people want to reignite that sense of engagement with their community. “The Collective Arts Brewing Company in Hamilton, for example, is making a significant impact in the craft-beer industry by supporting the music and talents of local artists,” says Miculan-Bradley. “Unique labels, clever beer names, sold out product and very good beer is catapulting this style of business.” Denise Corra, communications specialist at the NSLC (Nova Scotia Liquor Control) says craft-beer producers are creating a premium product. “We’ve had sales growth upwards of 25 per cent and that’s in large part because

our buy-local movement is very strong,” says Corra. “That’s especially true with microbreweries.” There are 28 such breweries in Nova Scotia. “It’s a lot when you consider the small population here,” she says. “But people are passionate. It’s very hands-on.” WINE

Similar to the craft-beer trend, today’s Canadian wine drinker appreciates a local product. “Consumers want to know the ‘story behind the wine’,” says Miculan-Bradley. “My research has shown millennials in particular consider Ontario wines to be of good value and sold at a fair price.” Miculan-Bradley also says millennials are invested in learning more about the product. “They want to know about the lesser-known varietals, such as hybrids like Baco Noir or Xynomavro — not just Chardonnay and Riesling.” Justin Taylor, general manager at the Vancouver-based Cascade Room, says today’s consumers are looking to push the envelope of flavours when it comes to wine. “It’s a huge trend here in B.C. for consumers to look outside of the usual suspects. Merlots, Cabernet, Chardonnay and so on are being pushed aside for lesser-known varietals such as Zweigelt, Carmenere and Mourvedre.” While Technomic reports a drop in listings of white wine on menus by 5.5 per cent, Canadian winemakers are still growing in popularity and number. “I can say the trend is towards supporting the local — but also organic, natural and biodynamic wines,” says Taylor.

CABERNET, CHARDONNAY AND SO ON ARE BEING PUSHED ASIDE FOR LESSER- KNOWN VARIETALS SUCH AS ZWEIGELT, CARMENERE AND MOURVEDRE

Magdalena Kaiser, director of Public Relations for the Wine Marketing Association of Ontario, says the real trend is towards sparkling wines and rosé. “In the last five years, we’ve had a growth in the production of rosé by 25 per cent in Ontario,” says Kaiser. “We’re also seeing more people are enjoying it. It’s just as serious and approachable a wine as red or white.” Kaiser notes that it also has a versatility that many consumers are discovering for the first time. “A lot of people still have that age-old stereotype of rosé being sweet. But you can have a huge range in taste, from dry and light to fruity and aromatic,” she says. The international attention garnered by Ontario’s sparkling wines has translated into big business, but also a new appreciation and demand for the product. “In the last five years, the number of Ontario wineries that produce sparkling wine has tripled,” says Kaiser. “There’s a movement within the industry to invest in sparkling wines right now.” She says Ontario’s cool FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM

44 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

“MERLOTS,

“

tional acclaim. Here’s what’s trending in each segment.

climate and glacial soils bring a different minerality to the grapes, allowing for superior flavour profiles. Veronique Rivest, owner of Quebec-based wine bar Soif and second-place champion at the 2013 World Sommelier Competition in Tokyo, agrees sparkling wines often go unappreciated. “Many Canadians don’t realize that some of the best sparkling wines in the world come from here,” says Rivest. She highlights Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge and Quebec’s L’Orpailleur’s Brut as two of her favourites. SPIRITS

While Technomic reports spirits listings have dipped by 0.9 per cent on menus, gin cocktails are on the rise. “Gin in particular is up 8.6 per cent,” explains Menas. “We can see it across the board from Canyon Creek’s Foxy Lady made with Hendrick’s gin, Mediterranean tonic, strawberry, English cucumber, mint bitters and rose water to The Pickle Barrel’s Spanish Gin & Tonic with Beefeater 24 gin, raspberries, orange, cucumber, lemon, bitters

and Fever-Tree all-natural tonic water.” Robin Goodfellow, a bartender at the Toronto-based Bar Raval, is seeing a resurgence of mescal (a distilled alcoholic beverage made from any type of agave plant native to Mexico). “In cocktails or on its own, it’s delicious,” he says. “I believe everyone has to find a bar pouring single-village mescal before it’s gone.” There’s something to be said about the consumer chase for the ever-shrinking quality. “We’re seeing small batch spirit production and that’s on trend,” says Miculan-Bradley. “There’s also big support out there for ‘rogue distillers’ who have a finite product resulting in a premium-priced distillate and a memorable experience.” It’s one perfectly concocted by and tailored to that millennial consumer. Nova Scotia is especially active in its spirit production. “We’ve got 11 local distilleries that are very well supported,” says Corra. “These are terrific products — like Glenora Distilleries in Cape Breton for example — that are making the product by hand. Look at our production of Fortress Rum — they dip every

single one of those bottles in wax by hand.” Again, it’s the authentic and hand-made products generating the most appreciation. “The B.C. spirit industry has exploded,” says Taylor. “The province is really carving out its own drinking culture through creating spirits with locally sourced ingredients.” He notes that bartenders are also taking the time to hand-make their own bitters, sakes and infusions with products such as shrubs or tree saps. “If someone gave me the money, I would build a 100-per-cent B.C.-sourced bar and restaurant.” With an industry in flux, the trend is clear — attention to detail is a valuable commodity, newly appreciated by today’s consumer. It’s not only attention to the product’s ingredients, but the narrative it creates around itself — the more local and communityoriented, the better. Just don’t forget to advertise the storyline across every social-media platform available. Millennials are often scrolling through their phones between sips. l

I NTERI OR& EXTERI OR COMMERI CALFURNI TURESPECI ALI ST

POURING FOR PROFITS

RAISING THE BAR

BY JEFFREY W. STEWART PHOTOS BY ROB POLS PHOTOGRAPHY

eer instead of water? Dirt in your tequila? These and other drink trends were front and centre at the 2016 Nightclub and Bar Show (NCB) held March 7 to 9 at the Las Vegas Convention Centre. The annual event, which brought together expert mixologists, owners, managers, suppliers, educators and media from around the world, was a one-stop shop for new ideas, products, inspiration and best practices in the beverage-service sector. Emerging trends this year included new celebrity brands, big data analytics, social media, enhanced customer service, elevated food and beer pairings and a plethora of innovation. CELEBRITY POWER BRANDS

A growing cast of sports and entertainment icons are joining the ranks of Mike Weir, Sammy Hagar, P. Diddy, 50 Cent, Dan Akroyd and Wayne Gretzky. Chazz Palminteri, Axwell, Alesso, AC/DC, Ron White and Alex Meyundo added their names to the top shelf of the back bar this year, but by far, Number Juan Tequila stole the show in terms of taste, with co-owner Ron White joking, “It’s so good, whatever we don’t drink, we sell.” SOCIAL MEDIA AND BIG DATA

Already savvy on social sites? Big data is trending and return on investment in socialmedia campaigns shrinks if companies aren’t accessing the rich data and analytics hidden within each channel. If you aren’t already engaged in social media it can be very

daunting. In her session, Brittany Oat from New York-based bSocial Strategy recommended not trying everything at once, but rather, pick one platform and focus on it. “Love it or hate it, get control of your Yelp! page,” she said. “Everyone is on it. Secure it, respond to feedback and reward your fans.” “The Internet of things” is coming to a bar near you. Berg, a cutting-edge system that combines inventory control and point-of-sale information wirelessly, is equipped with inventory control, POS and temperature monitoring all available to a smartphone or wirelessly on your wrist. A CULTURE OF SERVICE

Jesse Greenleaf from Duke’s Waikiki, Hawaii summarized the essence of his philosophy for repeat guests in four words; “Aloha attitude, mahalo mentality.” Greenleaf and his staff treat each guest transaction as an opportunity to build a relationship. Bartenders introduce themselves and refer to guests on a first-name basis. If a guest has an accent, they ask where they are from. Staff observe what guests are wearing to see if there are any team logos, cities, or other clues on their clothing. Bar staff then use these “invisible background checks” to infer information about their guests and authentically engage with them. “At Duke’s, we have the power to build the environment

our guests want,” said Greenleaf. “Every shift is a party and we treat it like we are host to the best party on the island that night. Hospitality and service remain central to our staff and are key to our success. Mentoring young staff about connecting with guests and entertaining is not just about throwing bottles.” ENHANCING YOUR BEER AND FOOD PROGRAMS

Anheuser-Busch is elevating the beer and food experience. Brewmaster George Reisch is teaming up with Scotch Myst chef Grant Macpherson for exciting new food and beer pairings. Their simple and effective ABCs of food and beer put the focus on training staff, service and sales techniques. Beer is also replacing liquids in recipes, à la Stella marinated steaks, Hoegarten beer butter or Shock Top-braised Brussels sprouts. LEAD AND INNOVATE

Russell Davis, celebrity mixologist, Bar Rescue co-host and owner of the night lifestyle company Unlimited Liabilities, summed it up by saying, “Trends are no longer trends...we need to set them not follow them.” For Davis, understanding operators can’t do everything themselves is an incredibly important step towards investing

46 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

in and empowering staff, especially with social media. He suggested expanding from solely branding the business to helping build staff members’ professional brands. Just as celebrity chefs can become their own brand, so can famous sommeliers, expert mixologists and front-line staff at businesses who connect with customers. “Get behind and add value to them. Staff may leave, but customers will stay if the establishment has built the experience to the same level as

the staff. Support your staff and empower them,”recommended Davis. Howl at the Moon founder Jimmy Bernstein is in his third decade of success after building an international, multi-unit brand through music and entertainment. The former space and aeronautical engineer says, “You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to open a bar, but it sure helps.” Bernstein echoes a common sentiment among entrepreneurs — have confidence in your concept and be comfortable taking risks. He’s dedicated copious amounts of time in his clubs looking for ways to improve. As a passionate student of his concept, he uses this passion to inspire others. “Attack each day with the goals of improving. This will drive you to new heights,” he says. Innovative spirits leading the 2016 expo charge included notable flavours such as Dirty Tequila, an aged tequila enhanced with pineapple and cinnamon. Good news for Wiser’s, Forty Creek, Crown Royal, Dillon’s, Canadian Club and the multitude of aged-

brown whisky from the great white north — rye whisky is what everyone wants this year. TOO MANY TO MENTION

There were too many amazing new product ideas at NCB to mention here, but visit us online at foodserviceandhospitality. com for a gallery of some of the top crazy nightclub and bar innovations. Some may become mainstays, others may be gone by next year, but number seven may just blow your mind. l Jeffrey W. Stewart is associate dean of Hospitality at Niagara College Canada in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. His 30-year career has included work at F&B operations, research, teaching, curriculum development and consulting.

ICONS & INNOVATORS

BREAKFAST SPEAKER SERIES IN CONVERSATION WITH GEORGE COHON

September 22, 2016 Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel

HOST

GUEST ICON & INNOVATOR

Rosanna Caira

George Cohon

Editor & Publisher, Kostuch Media Ltd.

Chairman McDonald’s Restaurants of Canada

As McDonald’s Restaurants of Canada prepares for its 50th anniversary in 2017, find out how the charismatic and engaging entrepreneur built the country‘s leading burger chain from the ground up, and how it continues to grow and evolve to meet the changing demands of the marketplace. Learn how Cohon helped to develop and shape one of the industry’s most impactful charities – Ronald McDonald House. Find out how the respected leader harnessed initiative and innovation to drive the company forward and to introduce the McDonald’s concept to Russia. For more information and to register please visit kostuchmedia.com

EQUIPMENT

CUTTING EDGE

Chefs are artists in their own right, and every artist needs the right tools to succeed BY DENISE DEVEAU

hen it comes to knives and dayto-day prep tools, chefs tend to take things personally. Some collect tools by the hundreds; others take their time putting together a base collection of tried-and-true items that will serve them throughout their careers. Chef John Cirillo, proprietor of Cirillo’s Culinary Academy in Toronto, says the love of knives starts as soon as chefs enter the industry. “They buy what they are comfortable with and tend to use them throughout their careers. They become part of their repertoire. And chefs aren’t cheap when it comes to buying knives. I’ve seen young guys not making much money who will spend $200 or $300 on one.” Necessities range from classic chef and utility knives to boning, paring and filleting knives. Prices can range from well under $100 into the thousands if your fancy turns

to high-end carbon or Japanese blades. For some, it may be a particular brand that suits their style, while others will accumulate different brands for specific tasks. At the Academy, Cirillo says he sticks to Michigan-based KitchenAid tools for the most part, but notes premier brands in his books include Victorinox, Henckels, Wusthof and F Dick. “Every chef knife box or bag should have at least six good knives,” he says. SOMETIMES, IT’S PERSONAL

Executive chef Alex Chen of Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar in Vancouver has gone well beyond that throughout his 20-year career. His collection of approximately 100 knives ranges from $15 paring knives to his latest acquisition, a custom-ordered Japanese knife set he says cost about $5,000. “Every pay cheque I would put aside some money to buy a new knife. I started out with

FINITE FOOD PREP Tweezers have become an essential part of a chef’s tool kit — perfect for delicate plating

48 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

Victorinox, [Wusthof] Trident and Global.” While his ultimate dream has been a set of custom-made Japanese knives, Chen says they don’t always have to be expensive. “They just have to feel really good to use. It’s about the patina, the handle and how they feel in our hand.” In fact, one of his favourite pieces was a $15 turning knife he used for years until only 20 per cent of the blade was left. “I still use it at home. But when I tried to replace it, Trident no longer made the same knife so I got a knife maker to replicate one, which cost $200. It’s still not the same.” It’s also about the history. “Every one reminds me of each stage of my career. Some are from my days in culinary school, others working at the Four Seasons. Some are from my travels; others were gifts.” As he anxiously awaits his newest investment, Chen says his only concern is that they “will be too shiny and pretty to use. I might just look at them for a few years before I touch them.” Andrew Farrell’s knife collecting got off to a rough start when the chef de cuisine at Halifax’s 2 Doors Down lost his knife bag seven years ago, never to be seen again. Although it wasn’t a large collection, like many chefs, there were items that had a great deal of sentimental value —including his dad’s steel. On the up side, Farrell says he didn’t have to look far to start again. He was raised in Pictou, N.S., home to the Grohmann knife factory, where everyone in town had “fantastic German steel knives. Some of my first knives were actually Grohmanns, including one of my workhorse eight-inch knives I use for carving. Luckily, I had two at home and have been rebuilding my collection since then. Of all the knives I have, four are from Grohmann.” FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

THE ART OF SHARPENING

e kind to your knives and they will return the favour. That means keeping up to speed on sharpening skills,

says Andrew Springett, chef instructor at SAIT (Southern Alberta Institute of Technology).

“The act of sharpening is not emphasized

enough as an art form unto itself. It’s something that should be learned at very basic level of learning.”

MAKING THE CUT Weight and balance are key factors when choosing the right knife

He adds respect for the art is on the rise, thanks to growing interest in Japanese blades that come with a long-standing history of sharpening practices. Following are a few basic pointers: Adapt your sharpening frequency according to the type of blade and its hardness. Maintaining the edge of a carbon blade, for

example, requires much higher maintenance. “The type of blade dictates the length of time you spend on sharpening.” Invest in a basic set of water stones.

Springett advises getting at least three different grits ranging from 250 (coarse) up to 4,000. “Lee Valley has a fantastic set of water stones for sharpening in its woodworking section. Use the 250 to get a nick out of a blade and shaping the edge. A 1,000 grit is good for general day-to-day maintenance.” While one should “touch a knife to a stone at the end of every day,” he says, chefs are more likely to do it once a week. “Remember, the longer you leave it, the longer the time you have to spend on the stone.” If you opt for a steel, the options include

ceramic, diamond or traditional. “The deci-

sion is usually based on personal preference.” Don’t buy a blade that’s beyond your sharpening skills. “If you buy a good knife right out of college and don’t know how to sharpen it, it’s like buying a Ferrari as your first vehicle and then learning how to drive,” Springett says. Keep the lines of communications open with experts. Whether it’s other chefs or Japanese sharpening specialists, he adds. “I’ve been sharpening knives for 10 years and am still learning.”

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

Sometimes, he admits, it’s hard to let go of a favourite. Once a handle fell off of a particular knife in a freak accident. “I kept the detached blade and use it as an herb chopper.” Because the restaurant does a lot of repetitive prep work, Farrell’s “absolute workhorse” tool is a Dexter Russell cleaver he bought in New York for $50. “I use it 90 per cent of the time.” Like a growing number of chefs today, Farrell is particularly intrigued by Japanese blades, which are renowned for the quality of the steel and sharpness. He has also added a Japanese steel Tadafusa knife to his collection. “Beyond the fact Japanese steel looks cool, it’s got fantastic edge-holding qualities, as long as you maintain it and treat it right.” He believes chefs need to be careful about their choices since it’s easy to overspend in

the heat of the moment. “I’ve seen a lot of chefs dump a lot of money into knife sets and not use the majority of them. You don’t have to buy a lot of knives; but the ones you do buy have to do a good job.” CHOICE AND CARE

When choosing knives, weight and balance is important, notes Rudi Fischbacher, associate dean, School of Hospitality Recreation and Tourism at Humber College in Toronto. “The ideal is a 50/50 balance between the blade and the handle.” Knife kit basics include a combination of softer and harder blades, each of which can serve a different purpose. Beyond the basic chef and paring knives, he also recommends a deboning knife and serrated blade. “Having the right blade for the right job is crucial,” Fischbacher says.

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

EQUIPMENT With the right care, even the most inexpensive knives can last years, Cirillo says. In addition to regular sharpening, Cirillo stresses the importance of storing knives properly. “You don’t want them in a drawer where the blades touch. I know chefs line metal toolboxes with Styrofoam so the blades won’t touch. Knife bags or magnetic knife holders

are also great. A lot of knives come with knife guards so you can slide them in but a lot of chefs don’t use them. Those who care about their knives, however, do.” Knives should never be cleaned in dishwashers as the harsh chemicals can damage the steel. Knife bags should also be wiped down weekly, Cirillo advises. It’s also good

practice to running a knife along a sharpening steel at the beginning and end of its use before storing to remove any debris. ACCESSORIZING YOUR BASICS

Introducing the new, more powerful KitchenAid® Commercial Immersion Blender, a tool for seriously inspired kitchens. Learn more at KitchenAid.ca.

50 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

Of course, chefs’ tools go beyond knives. Farrell’s work area must-haves, for example, include tongs, a slotted spoon, fish spatula, a Y-shaped peeler and a skewer for testing fish. “A tong is simply an extension of your hand. They can do anything from getting items out of the oven to plating. It’s one tool I use on the line all the time.” There’s also growing interest in plating tools, especially on the part of fine-dining establishments. In response, manufacturers are now developing kits for everything from multiple variations on tongs and tweezers to drizzling spoons/sauciers, wedges, combs and brushes. Tweezers come in various shapes and lengths and have different tensions depending on the application, says Joseph Flaherty, senior vice-president for Mercer Culinary in Chicago. “Caterers, for example, like longer tweezers so they can reach across when plating multiple dishes.” Fischbacher agrees plating and eye appeal have become huge factors for chefs. He encourages students to invest in plating-tool kits. He sees them as a way to enhance artistic expression on the plate. “It’s like painters with a palette.” l FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

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FEATURE

SHOP TALK

At last month’s 2016 Canadian Foodservice Summit, renowned Canadian chefs Mark McEwan, Michael Bonacini, Alex Chen and Rob Gentile joined F&H’s Rosanna Caira for the Food for Thought: Leading Chefs Panel to talk food trends, industry roadblocks and what inspired them to become chefs.

MICHAEL BONACINI

ALEX CHEN

ROB GENTILE

MARK MCEWAN

ON TRENDS

ON INNOVATION

ON THE TIPPING MODELS

ON BECOMING A CHEF

trends is not easy. It’s more about

self, you’ll go the way of the DoDo bird.

day one, so our staff share in every-

refused — I wanted to be a fighter pilot

Michael Bonacini: Trying to predict

MB: If you don’t keep reinventing your-

RG: We’ve been pooling [tips] since

MM: I applied to Annapolis and was

social cues and what’s going on glob-

That doesn’t mean you take the con-

thing that is brought in. For us, it’s a

but didn’t have the math grades. My

ally. It’s always a moving target.

cept of your restaurant in a completely

way of saying ‘if you’re going to work

first restaurant job was at 16 years old

different direction; just keep current

here, you’re going to work as a team’

and really enjoyed the environment.

Mark McEwan: I’m doing a lot of

and exciting — from interior design,

and it doesn’t matter if you’re polishing

Middle Eastern cuisine right now —

to uniforms, to menu content and

glasses in the back or waiting tables

African, South East Asia — everyone’s

new drinks. If you don’t do that, you’ll

— they’re all there together to provide

in love with that part of the world

become yesterday’s lunch.

the experience for the guest. For us it’s

We greeted each other with ‘have you

been successful so far. The problem

eaten?’ not ‘how are you?’ I started in

AC: As a restaurant, we encourage

with abolishing tips is it leaves a large

restaurants because when I applied

and collaborate with sous chefs in our

gap that operators need to fill — how

for jobs growing up, they were the only

Alex Chen: Two major trends I’m

kitchens to come up with new dishes

do you tell a customer that 20 per

ones to call me back.

seeing in Vancouver are Korean and

and that’s what drives us. We also take

cent is going to be added to their bill

Latin cuisine from tacos and burritos to

advantage of new technology to help

when maybe they don’t want to tip that

Peruvian ceviche. And you can’t forget

us create more innovative food that still

much?

Raman — it’s everywhere.

stays true to the origin of the dish.

because it tends to be a low fat, healthier diet.

Malaysia and food was always around.

MB: My parents were both in the hotel/ restaurant business and my sister is

a chef as well. My brother makes dog MM: I don’t believe [abolishing tips]

food for dogs with digestive problems.

works — it causes chaos and unhap-

Restaurants are in my DNA, although

in terms of understanding clients.

piness. There is a basic nature that

I spend very little time in the kitchen

[Operators] need to recognize the

servers have — they work a table,

these days — my focus is on menu

demographic of the area and who

take care of people all night long, they

direction and the business side.

their customers are, then model their

believe they have ownership of the

restaurants to fit the needs of those

table and you have to respect that. I’ve

customers. [Innovation] is about fitting

never interfered with a server’s tips,

into their lives.

I’ve never taken a penny from them.

13, I asked my mother what I should

Our concept is that we’ll keep the cur-

do [as a job] and she said ‘whatever

rent system in place but a larger per-

you do, make sure you truly love it

centage of the tips will go to the cooks.

because it’s what you’ll be doing for

MM: [Innovation is] quite organic,

Rob Gentile: Innovation is an ongoing thing that is constantly kept up and for ROCK STAR PANEL F&H’s Rosanna Caira and the panel of celebrity chefs talk restaurant trends

AC: I grew up in large family in

RG: I was raised in an Italian family

and food was everything. When I was

us, it starts with our staff. They have to

the rest of your life.’ Within five min-

be injected with creativity and excite-

utes, I knew it would be something

ment — so it’s about pushing them out

with food.

of their comfort zone and getting them excited about different things.

52 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2016

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