F&H November/December 2023 by Kostuch Media Ltd.

SINCE 1968

CA N A D I A N P U B L I CAT IO N M A I L P RO D UC T S A L E S AG R E E M E N T # 4 0 0 63 4 7 0

Bernadette Osmow, president & Chief Marketing Officer; Sam Osmow, principal & founder; and Ben Osmow, CEO & head of Franchise Operations.

FAMILY AFFAIR Osmow's Shawarma is taking the Canadian franchise scene by storm NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

BONELESS or BONE-IN

Wing it Your Way

SCAN FOR PRODUCT DETAILS.

For great recipe ideas, visit our website. For a sample, contact your Reuven Sales Rep.

www.reuven.com | 416.929.1496

VOLUME 56, NO.8 | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

SPECIAL PINNACLE AWARDS ISSUE: CELEBRATING HOSPITALITY EXCELLENCE

CHEF OF THE YEAR ANDREA CARLSON Andrea Carlson sets a new standard of excellence in the foodservice industry

SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR MAPLE LEAF FOODS Maple Leaf Foods is on track to becoming the most sustainable protein company

ROSANNA CAIRA LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD PETER OLIVER Peter Oliver’s legacy on the foodserviceand-hospitality industry is long lasting

FEATURES 12

FISHING FOR PROFITS

The stages of franchising each bring challenges and opportunities

COMPANY OF THE YEAR OSMOW’S SHAWARMA Osmow’s has stayed true to its essence for more than 20 years

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON GORDON

REGIONAL COMPANY OF THE YEAR LIBRETTO RESTAURANT GROUP Libretto Restaurant Group prides itself on staying ahead of the curve

INDEPENDENT RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR RESTAURANT PEARL MORISSETTE Restaurant Pearl Morissette sets itself apart through ingredients and team culture

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INNOVATE, INTEGRATE AND CELEBRATE KML and Sequel Hotels & Resorts host the annual WITH Summit

Operators are growing their fish and seafood revenue sustainably

RISE OF THE FRANCHISE

NEED FOR SPEED Combi oven and accelerated-cooking technologies are gaining traction

A SPIRITED REVOLUTION A glimpse into the evolution of cocktail trends

DEPARTMENTS 2 5 10 56

FROM THE EDITOR FYI SERVING QUALITY IN FOODSERVICE CHEF'S CORNER Keith Pears, Glass Kitchen, Richmond Hill, Ont.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

FROM THE EDITOR

THE EPITOME OF EXCELLENCE

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

ROSANNA CAIRA @foodservicemag facebook.com/foodservicehospitalitymagazine instagram.com/rosannacaira

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NICK WONG, LOCATION PROVIDED BY VIA CIBO

ith the sudden arrival of December, it’s time to cast our eyes to the year ahead but not until we take one last look at the past year and acknowledge the various highlights and achievements of those who have managed to break ground, who have moved past the setbacks and, in doing so, have crafted a narrative that reflects the epitome of excellence. While it’s clear that the foodservice and hospitality industry has not totally put the pandemic behind it, and the impact of COVID-19 continues to be felt across all industry segments, and undoubtedly will continue to do so for many years, it’s re-assuring to see that many operators have moved valiantly forward, breaking free of the pandemic’s stranglehold, all the while learning valuable life lessons along the way that will serve them well in their next chapters. Once again, this year’s Pinnacle Award winners are a testament to hard work, creativity and dedication. This year’s winners also share another common trait — they have not let the pandemic define them. Despite the ongoing challenges and the various ups and the downs, they’ve been able to stand out from

the pack by daring to believe in themselves and by choosing to dream big. Perseverance and resilience are part of these companies’ playbooks but they’re also sprinkled with creativity, imagination and tenacity. As part of this year’s Pinnacle Awards, it gives me great pleasure to recognize, posthumously, an individual whose impact has been far reaching and has stood the test of time. Sadly, Peter Oliver, co-founder of Oliver & Bonacini, passed away last year, leaving a gaping hole in the heart of this dynamic industry. Oliver not only created a lasting legacy — a collection of 69 restaurants and event spaces sprinkled across this vast nation we call home, but he also shaped the lives of so many individuals who chose to work in this industry because of the valuable lessons he imparted on them and the passion he inspired in them. Oliver may no longer be among us, but the lessons he taught us along the way, the enthusiasm and energy he shared with us and the charitable spirit he inspired through his generous donations to various causes have enriched us all and left an indelible impact on the community at large (see story on Peter Oliver on p. 42). As we close out the year and look forward to celebrating the holidays with family and friends, while also taking a muchneeded pause in our daily frenetic lives, we hope you enjoy the spirit of the holidays. On behalf of the entire team at KML, we’d like to wish our readers and advertisers alike the very best of the holiday season. Though the world continues to spin faster every day, and geopolitical turmoil continues to plague us and haunt us at every turn, we wish you good health, happiness and, as always, a touch of magic during the holiday season. FH

EST. 1968 | VOLUME 56, NO 8 | NOV./DEC. 2 0 2 3

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M O N T H LY N E W S A N D U P D A T E S O N T H E F O O D S E R V I C E I N D U S T R Y

BEST OF THE BEST Chef Nelson Freitas named Best Young Chef in the World BY RITA DEMONTIS

he famous S. Pellegrino Young Chef Academy 2022-2023 Grand Finale competition took place in Milan recently, gathering the best of the best from around the globe to compete for the coveted title of the Best Young Chef in the World. It was only fitting the illustrious event took place in a country renowned for its cuisine, with some of the most famous chefs worldwide in attendance to watch the 15 finalists claim their rightful place among the giants of the global culinary community. In the end, there could only be one winner, with the award going to junior sous chef Nelson Freitas from Fifty Seconds restaurant in Lisbon, and representing the Iberian countries. Freitas wowed the grand jury with his stunning signature dish of crispy red mullet with sea urchin and homemade black garlic — ingredients he had sourced from his Portuguese homeland. The jury praised the dish for its “intensity, creativity and perfect balance.” What clinched it for the young chef was the fact there was absolutely no waste, adhering to the new gastronomic principles of reducing the industry’s carbon footprint. Freitas told the crowds his FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

dish was based on “tradition, flavour and home.” The S. Pellegrino Young Chef Competition spanned two days of intensive cooking and creating, with each of the finalists accompanied by a special chef mentor. Finished dishes were presented to a grand jury comprised of esteemed international chefs, with the overall theme being “Bring Your Future to the Table,” — representing how S. Pellegrino is looking to help the next generation of chefs bring their personal dreams

The competition was founded back in 2002 as a mentoring program to connect top culinary students with established chefs and influential media. Since then, it has grown and evolved into one of the biggest, most respected culinary events of the industry, and has launched hundreds of successful careers while refining the skills and messaging of new generations of chefs.

and visions to the global chef community in order to “create a better world through food,” said company officials. This year’s event attracted more than 4,000 applications with some 720 submissions in total. Chef Pierre-Olivier Pelletier of Quebec, who was named best young chef in the country earlier in the year by a local panel of award-winning chefs including Christine Cushing, Suzanne Barr and Patrick Kriss, represented Canada. Pelletier won for his signature dish of “young aged and smoked duck with sweet grass, yellowbirch syrup lacquer with crispy cereal, carotene dressing, roasted cereal gravy and ‘verge d’or’” — an ode to his Indigenous roots and to pay homage to his family. “I invented this dish to pay tribute to the hard work of my parents,” said Pelletier, adding, “to me, this dish also represents the diversity of Canadian gastronomy.” Sweetgrass played a pivotal role in Pelletier’s dish — a profound ingredient he also gifted to the grand jury — as a testament to Canada’s Indigenous heritage. “Sweetgrass represents the connection between the past and the future,” he said. Award-winning chef, author and restaurateur Suzanne Barr accompanied Pelletier to Milan as his personal mentor, and the two worked diligently on a dish that spoke volumes about the young chef ’s love of country, identity and passion for sustainability. FH

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

DRIVING GROWTH

JUST BREW IT

Good Earth Cafes Ltd. has partnered with Marcus & Millichap, a leading commercial real-estate brokerage firm, to further strengthen and expand the Good Earth Coffeehouse brand in Canada. Ryan McLaughlin, based in Marcus & Millichap’s Toronto office, has been appointed as the lead to facilitate the brand’s strategic expansion plans. Marcus & Millichap will spearhead the search for prime locations to expand operations, spanning from Vancouver Island to Ontario. The company is actively pursuing spaces, typically around 1,500 sq. ft. in size, to establish new coffeehouses. Additionally, Good Earth is exploring smaller sites, including opportunities for kiosks, in diverse settings such as street-front locations, multi-use buildings and shopping centres.

Foodtastic has acquired Noodlebox as part of its continued expansion in the quick-service restaurant segment. “Noodlebox’s reputation as a top-tier quick-service restaurant brand aligns perfectly with our commitment to providing exceptional dining experiences to our customers,” says Peter Mammas, president & CEO of Foodtastic. “We look forward to working closely with all our new franchisees and driving the growth of the Noodlebox brand across Canada.”

CRUCIAL SUPPORTS

Tim Hortons and its restaurant owners across Canada have raised more than $1 million for Indigenous organizations through the third annual Orange Sprinkle Doughnut fundraising campaign. Over the past three years, Tim Hortons and its guests have raised more than $3.6 million for the Orange Shirt Society, the Indian Residential School Survivors Society and New Pathways Foundation in Quebec. The funds have helped provide support for the organizations to do their important work in developing crucial supports, programming and educational opportunities in Indigenous communities across Canada.

WILD RECOGNITION Wildlight Kitchen + Bar has been recognized by the Michelin Guide, with the prestigious guide’s bestowment of the city’s firstever Young Chef Award on its culinary leader, chef Warren Chow. This acknowledgement comes as Michelin marks its second year of evaluating Vancouver’s culinary landscape, and follow’s September’s inclusion of Wildlight on its updated list of recommended restaurants. Presented in partnership with Mercedes-Benz, the Young Chef Award winner “demonstrates a unique identity and culinary creations embodying the pioneering spirit” of the legendary automaker. A B.C. native, the French-trained Chow rose through the ranks in notable kitchens across the province including The PearTree and Mission Hill Family Estate Winery, leading to executive chef roles at Juniper Kitchen & Bar and Bauhaus in Vancouver. Chow is also a member of Culinary Team B.C. and represented Canada at the ExpoGast Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg, winning a gold medal in 2022. “It’s a tremendous honour to not only have the Michelin Guide recognize Wildlight but also to have been named Vancouver’s first Young Chef Award winner,” says Chow. “I’ve been fortunate to have worked with and learned from so many incredible mentors in the industry, and this honour reinforces my belief that supporting young chefs on their journey reaps meaningful rewards.”

6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

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SIGNIFICANT STRIDE A&W Canada has become the first QSR brand to launch a nationwide exchangeable-cup program with its A&W One Cup to promote circular usage. To join, guests can buy an exchangeable One Cup for $3 when they order any beverage. The next time they visit A&W, the restaurant will exchange it for a freshly cleaned and sanitized One Cup and guests will receive a 20-per-cent discount on their beverage. All A&W restaurants that serve frosty glass mugs can exchange an A&W One Cup. To date, A&W has prevented more than 55,000 cups from ending up in landfills since the program’s pilot launch in select Canadian markets and expect this number to grow into

millions in the first year of the national launch. “At A&W, our commitment to our zero-waste journey is unwavering, and addressing the single-use cups waste issue is a significant stride towards our journey to zero-waste. That’s why we’re thrilled to introduce our One Cup program nationwide in Canada. When crafting this program, we prioritized making it effortless, convenient, and accessible for our guests. We do the dishwashing for our guests so that they can enjoy the benefits of using re-usable cups without the hassle,” says Angela Griffiths, VP of Food Safety, Animal Welfare and Environment at A&W.

FRESH START Kristy Barber has joined Restaurant Equipment Distributors of Canada (R.E.D. Canada) as director of Business Development. With her extensive experience and proven track record in the food equipment dealership industry, Barber is set to play a vital role in driving company growth and strengthening its position in the Canadian market. Her comprehensive understanding of industry trends, innovative solutions and customer needs positions her as a strategic asset to the company. In her new role, Barber is responsible for overseeing all aspects of business development and strategic partnerships for the company. This includes identifying new business opportunities, fostering relationships with existing clients and expanding the company’s reach across the Canada foodservice-equipment landscape.

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Banda Volpi, the group behind Savio Volpe, La Tana and Pepino’s, has appointed Alan Tam head chef of Elio Volpe, which is slated to open this winter in Vancouver. The 4,200-sq.-ft. space is currently being designed by Ste Marie Studio. Over the course of his 15-year career, Tam was trained and mentored by some of the city’s most respected culinary leaders, including Phil Scarfone, Kristian Eligh, Bryan Satterford, Steve Ramey and Charlie Kunsang, while building relationships with local farmers, fishers and foragers. Most recently executive chef at downtown Vancouver’s Nightingale Restaurant, Tam was part of the opening team with Scarfone. While he works alongside Scarfone on menu development for Elio Volpe, guests can enjoy an early taste of his work in the kitchen at Osteria Savio Volpe. “Alan is a true professional, a rock-solid cook and a human being of the highest order. He’s a grinder, a softy, a hardass and a stickler for details,” says Scarfone. “He and I have a chemistry and team dynamic fostered by working side by side for years. I can’t wait to jump into this next chapter with Alan and the team at Elio this winter.”

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HAKAN BURCUOGLU

8 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

NEW CHEF AT ELIO VOLPE

IN MEMORIAM

In Memoriam

ROGER YIP [BELOW]

Industry mourns death of Smoke’s Poutinerie founder Ryan Smolkin

Last month, the industry was shocked and saddened to learn of the sudden passing of Ryan Smolkin at the age of 50. “It is with great sadness we announce that our friend and CEO (Chief Entertainment Officer) Ryan Smolkin died on Sunday, October 29 at 7 p.m. due to unexpected complications from a recent surgery,” reads a release from the company. “The entire Smoke’s Poutinerie family mourn this loss and extend our deepest sympathies to Ryan’s family.” Smolkin was a successful property capitalist and branding guru who formerly owned one of Canada’s top branding and design companies with a roster of industry leading clients including Nike, Maple Leaf Sports & Entertainment, Sims Snowboards, Molson Breweries, Corus Entertainment and YTV. He founded Smoke’s Poutinerie in 2009 and became known as the Chief Entertainment Officer (CEO). Smolkin was a visionary leader, a legendary innovator, a true Canadian business/cultural celebrity, a socialmedia influencer, and an experienced international speaker. His message was strong, candid and always delivered with an unmatched unique style and unbridled energy. Smolkin always said that one of the secrets behind his success was to surround himself with the right people, “and while the team at Smoke’s Poutinerie will never fill

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the emptiness left from this loss, they will continue to fuel his dream, the Gravy Train, with the passion and care that he has instilled in each of them, building on his vision of global domination,” reads the release. As directed by Smolkin prior to passing, the company has announced that newly appointed president and COO, Mark Cunningham will take the lead seat on the Gravy Train. Cunningham is a franchise industry veteran of more than 25 years and Smoke’s Poutinerie long-time Chief Operating & Business Development Officer. Cunningham and the entire team will ensure that it’s business as usual with the same goals, vision, and direction that Smolkin built the brand on. “Ryan was passionate about many things… one close to his heart was his long-time relationship with We Care, whose vision is enabling kids with disabilities to realize their full potential,” states the release. “As the charity of choice of the foodservice industry, they partner with companies to raise money to send kids with disabilities to fully accessible Easter Seals summer camps across Canada.” In 2016, Smolkin created the CEO Challenge in support of We Care, where leaders of the foodservice industry sign up to raise money and compete in a friendly Poutine Eating Challenge. The event is held annually during Smoke’s World Poutine Eating Championship (WPEC) and has raised hundreds of thousands of dollars for We Care. In his memory, this event will now be known as “The Ryan Smolkin CEO Challenge in Support of We Care.” FH

Ryan Smolkin became a director of the We Care Board in 2018 and never stopped thinking about the kids. In lieu of flowers, he had requested that a donation be made in his memory to help send a deserving kid to camp.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

SERVING QUALITY IN FOODSERVICE

ABOVE

Operators can offer premium products even during challenging times BY VINCE SGABELLONE

Amid all this austerity, fine-dining restaurant traffic has grown more than 20 per cent for the year ending August 2023, the fastest of any restaurant channel. Representing less than one per cent of total visits, this channel is clearly not a high-traffic generator. With the highest average eater check, it captures four per cent of all restaurant spending. To put this into perspective, this is a bit less than the total amount Canadians spent last year in all QSR sandwich shops combined. It should come as no surprise fine dining skews to the highest-income group, representing more than 50 per cent of all consumers. If we flip this data point around, we begin to understand the behaviours of this affluent consumer. Most importantly, CREST reports QSR restaurants account for twothirds of their visits, showing even fine-dining customers enjoy the pleasures of fast food. This creates a tremendous opportunity for all operators and manufacturers to appeal to the foodservice consumers with the most ability to spend. Growing visits 10 per cent in the past year, this cohort advanced faster than all others. Their flavour preferences lean towards global cuisines such as Asian, Italian and Mexican. Interestingly, their share of QSR pizza, QSR

10 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

burger and QSR sandwich visits are aligned with every other income cohort. Their morning meal visits are over-indexed along with drive-thru, while afternoon and latenight snacks are under-indexed. Lunch and supper shares are on par with others. This is entirely consistent with the older age cohort most prevalent in this income bracket. Most of the samples offered during the J-LEC event came from the shoulder cuts. These lower-priced cuts are not as soughtafter as the loin cuts, which may make them the right premium product to promote for these times. These cuts could help a casual-dining restaurant elevate some menu items to fine-dining status, or a fine-dining establishment to provide high-quality menu offerings at a more accessible price. Higher-income groups may have more ability to spend, but that doesn’t mean they are foolish with their money. This explains why the dealing rate across all income groups varies by just a few points around the 28 per cent average, and reinforces that dealing is about providing value for money, not discounts. That applies to every consumer, including those who would be most inclined to consume Wagyu in a finedining restaurant. FH

Vince Sgabellone is the director of Client Development and Foodservice Industry analyst at Circana. He can be reached at vince.sgabellone@circana.com

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NADIIA KOVAL

recently attended an information session hosted by the Japan Livestock Products Export Promotion Council (J-LEC). Its mandate is the promotion of Japanese livestock products around the world. On the day I attended, the focus was Wagyu, which literally translates as Japanese beef. Many chefs and consumers consider this to be the ultimate variety of beef, characterized by intense marbling with a unique flavour and aroma. Wagyu isn’t just a breed of cattle; it involves an entire system by which the cattle are bred and raised, certified, and even named. This was my first opportunity to taste this premium product offering and I wasn’t disappointed. This event got me thinking how marketers can promote premium products during economic uncertainty. Three-quarters of consumers reported in our latest Omnibus study (September 2023) that they plan to reduce their overall spending, while 71 per cent of them intend to cut back on restaurant spending. This is the highest of any spending category, and the highest we have recorded since we began tracking in early 2022. Backing up this assertion, our CREST restaurant industry tracker reports that visits for the year ending August 2023 were up eight per cent compared to the same period a year ago, but the growth rate has slowed steadily in recent quarters. Additionally, the average eater check has increased just two per cent to four per cent depending on the occasion, well below the rate of menu inflation. Consumers are clearly cutting back on their restaurant spending, even if they aren’t necessarily cutting back on visits.

FOOD FILE

for Profits

Operators are growing their fish and seafood revenue sustainably BY MORAG MCKENZIE

ish and seafood is the primary protein source for more than half the planet’s population, with restaurant goers generally perceiving it as a healthier, lighter option than most meats — a perception that has propelled these menu items to ongoing growth. Canada’s increasingly diverse population, growth in global cuisine, changing attitudes towards meat consumption and its impact on our planet and the rise in the number of people following a pescatarian or lowercarbohydrate diet have each contributed to an increase in fish and seafood consumption.

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SUSTAINABILITY PRIMER Canada is one of the largest fish and seafood producers in the world, exporting more than $8 billion worth of product in 2022. However,

overfishing, climate change and illegal and unregulated fishing have threatened hundreds of fish and seafood species and today, more than a third of global fisheries have been fished beyond sustainable limits. The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) is a global non-profit organization that works to end overfishing around the world. Based on a scientifically verified fishery certification program, it works to recognize and reward sustainable fishing practices. “Fishing is deemed to be sustainable if it leaves enough fish in the oceans and waterways to minimize its impacts on habitats and ecosystems” says Curtis Haynes, Canadian program director for MSC. “If fish and seafood are sustainably caught and harvested, there will be enough fish in our oceans and lakes to secure a healthy and reliable food source for generations to come. Canada is a real leader in sustainable fishing, with 61 per cent of all fisheries MSC certified.”

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MSC’s Canadian Chef Ambassador, Charlotte Langley, has worked with the organization for six years to promote sustainable fish and seafood to both restaurant operators and consumers. Hailing from P.E.I., she is a former executive chef and in 2014 she co-founded Scout Canada, providing both the consumer and restaurant market with a responsible and sustainable canned seafood option. “Sustainability in fish and seafood is a moral imperative in today’s culinary landscape,” she says. “For chefs across Canada, this issue ranks extremely high.” Chef Michael Smith, P.E.I. food ambassador, restaurateur, author and co-owner of The Inn at Bay Fortune, is also a very strong advocate for sustainable fish and seafood. “It’s essential for every chef to understand the relationship between the foodservice choices they make and the degrading world around us. There is no other choice than sustainable fish and seafood — full stop.”

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

Farmed

Versus

Wild Debate

However, while most chefs agree that serving sustainable fish and seafood is the right thing to do, not all restaurants across Canada do so. Chef Ned Bell, another well-known Canadian seafood culinary talent and chef ambassador at Buy BC and Ocean Wise explains, “Over the past 15 years, more and more chefs are aware of where their fish and seafood comes from. However, with a razor-thin profit margin, many struggle just to keep afloat. At times it can become a battle between quality, sustainability and price as menu items need to be affordable to keep their guests coming in.”

THE GUEST PERSPECTIVE Today’s restaurant guests also have a role to play in promoting sustainable seafood. Smith adds, “Guests also need to be vocal about their expectations and choose restaurants that only serve sustainable seafood.” Many leading independent and chain restaurants are listening.

Joey’s, Earls and the Cactus Club only serve sustainable fish and seafood, as does IKEA and White Spot Restaurants and many others. Even the fast-food sector is becoming more sustainable with McDonald’s only using MSCcertified seafood. With four locations, The Whalesbone is an Ottawa-based concept specializing in sustainable oysters, fish and seafood since 2007. “Whalesbone is founded on the principal of serving only sustainable fish and seafood,” says executive chef Michael Radford. “Knowing this is one of the reasons I do what I do.” Whalesbone promotes its use of sustainable fish and seafood, featuring this distinction on the sides of its buildings and on its menus. “We have customers coming to us because they know the fish they eat will be sustainable and they can feel good about what they are eating,” says Radford. “Today’s consumers are incredibly well informed,” says

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Farmed seafood is bred, reared and harvested in controlled water environments either on land or water, while wild is caught and processed from our oceans and lakes. remove etcetera. Chef Ambassador at Ocean Wise and Buy BC, Ned Bell states, “Today there are many well-managed fishery farms as methods have changed from what they were decades ago. We are an advocate for both as Mother Nature gives us both. Up to 70 per cent of the fish and seafood we consume today is farmed.” Farmed fish and seafood is also available throughout the year versus wild, which could be available for as short a season as four to six weeks. “Farmed versus wild seafood is a hotly debated topic. However, using only wild salmon on our menus could put even more pressure on depleting wild salmon stocks, particularly in B.C.,” explains Bell.

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Langley. “Not only do they demand quality, but they also seek transparency in sourcing.”

SUSTAINABILITY MATTERS E X PA N D I N G

YO U R

fish & seafood menu Canadians generally eat four types of fish and seafood: pink (salmon), red (tuna), white (halibut or cod) and shrimp — which is the top seller. Many of the most sustainable fish and seafood are affordable. Mussels are a great example, as are clams and oysters. Experienced fishmongers will also bring in unique kinds of sustainable fish, much of which is caught as a ‘by-product’ by a fisherman trying to catch specific species. Examples include black, ling or Pacific cod and rock fish, which is often called B.C. snapper as it is very similar to red snapper. From raw to Rockefeller, the oyster market continues to grow significantly, with restaurants serving oysters fresh, grilled, fried, baked and with everything from caviar to fresh herbs and champagne vignettes. “The culinary world is only scratching the surface when it comes to sustainable fish and seafood. Underutilized species such as porgy, pollock, or even invasive species, present significant opportunities for diversification and sustainability. Chefs have the creative capacity to turn these undervalued options into culinary masterpieces, thus driving demand and reducing pressure on overfished populations,” suggests Charlotte Langley, Chef Ambassador for MSC.

A recent survey by MSC (2022) found that seafood consumers tend to be female (52 per cent), over the age of 55 (41 per cent) with a medium to high income (81 per cent). More than 69 per cent of those surveyed feel that by choosing sustainable fish and seafood, they are empowered to positively make a difference in the health of our oceans, a sevenper-cent increase from just two years ago. “More than 74 per cent of Canadians believe that they should only eat sustainable fish and seafood,” Haynes adds. “This demonstrates to chefs that to maintain their guests’ trust, they should only serve the same.” Langley explains, “While regional seafood is a source of local pride, the core issue of sustainability is universal across Canada.”

TRENDING TASTES Most chefs agree, the best way to serve fish is very simply to expose its delicious, yet sometimes delicate, flavour. However, others are exploring other techniques, including ceviche, poke bowls, fermentation and preserves. Fish and seafood are also increasingly being found on charcuterie boards. “Via Rail chefs are using our Scout canned seafoods (P.E.I. mussels in a smoked-paprika sauce and lobster with lemon-infused olive oil, $9.99 each) to create unique boards, pressed sandwiches and salads,” says Langley. The increasing popularity of global cuisines, particularly those from countries near the ocean, has also popularized unique preparation techniques and flavours. These include Japanese, Mediterranean, Southeast Asian

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and African influences. Chefs are also using unique vinegars and spices to add acid flavours.

SEAFOOD TO GO As restaurants pivoted to takeout and delivery during COVID, their fish and seafood menu offerings had to change as quality, texture and taste can be compromised with extended delivery times. To address this, The Whalesbone shifted its menu to include takeout-friendly items such as lobster mac and cheese and individually frozen, cookat-home menu items. Radford says while they didn’t change the principal or concept of the menus, “we introduced a takeout dinner for two and developed a new type of breading that stayed crispier during the journey.” These items have proved to be so popular that they have continued on the menu today.

KNOW YOUR SOURCE Getting to know your fishmonger or supplier helps chefs trust that their traceability and sustainability standards are real and verified. Wholesale manager for The Whalesbone, Kevin Conway, has seen a great deal of change in the wholesale sustainable fish and seafood market. “We sell only MSC or Ocean Wise-certified fish and seafood to restaurants and operators. We’re an on-time provider, meaning we take day-of fish orders. More than 99 per cent of our fish is fresh, including all fish and oysters. Most of our chef customers are concerned about traceability, including where/ when fish was caught and how it was processed.” And while getting to know your fishmonger or supplier will alleviate some of the supply challenges the restaurant industry continues to face, it cannot alleviate all. “From overfishing to climate change, the challenges are multi-faceted. Technology

is aiding in traceability efforts, with blockchain technologies promising end-to-end visibility. Collaborative efforts among chefs, suppliers, and advocacy groups are essential to make a broad impact,” Langley concludes.

MAXIMIZING REVENUE As interest in fish and seafood, particularly from sustainable sources, continues to grow, the focus remains on minimal waste and maximum flavour. Noseto-tail fish cooking, which uses every part of the fish is on the rise. The Whalesbone Bank Street features a whole fish for two served with salsa verde, tartar and slaw (market price). Growing your fish and seafood revenue includes ensuring your menus and restaurant highlight your sustainability efforts. Training all staff so they understand the importance of sustainable fish and seafood — and then share this with their guests — is equally critical. Offering sustainable fish and seafood “specials,” particularly when using a lesser-know fish species, gives guests an opportunity to try new choices. However, full transparency in sourcing will be the key to providing guests with the comfort of knowing their menu choices really do matter — today and into the future. FH

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A FAMILY

OSMOW’S HAS STAYED TRUE TO ITS ESSENCE FOR BY LAURA PRATT | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON GORDON

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COMPANY OF THE YEAR

(L to R): Ben Osmow, CEO & head of Franchise Operations; Sam Osmow, principal & founder; and Bernadette Osmow, president & Chief Marketing Officer.

AFFAIR

R MORE THAN 20 YEARS

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hen Sam Osmow brought his family to Canada from Egypt in 1998, they arrived at Toronto’s Pearson International Airport, anxious to begin a new adventure. He purchased a modest sandwich shop, the Polar Submarine, in a suburb of Mississauga, Ont. and for a while, it paid the bills. But then things took a turn when a tsunami of competition forced the shop to close. When it re-opened, it was a more authentic version of the family — serving their native fare and bearing their name. Osmow’s Shawarma, Foodservice and Hospitality’s Pinnacle Award winner for Company of the Year, generates more than $140-million in annual sales, employs approximately 1,200 people and is a leader in the QSR segment for its clever marriage of mom-and-pop sideshow and industrialist feature act. As of the end of June 2023, its systemwide sales were $80.5 million, which represents a 36.3per cent increase year-over-year. The company ditched subs the day a customer, sniffing the air, asked patriarch Sam Osmow what he was making for lunch. Sam swapped out his store’s standard-issue sandwiches for dishes from his own culture and sent his children out with shawarma samples — and news of their

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

responses heartened Sam about the chance he’d taken. Ben Osmow, one of the children peddling samples and now Osmow’s CEO and head of Franchising, remembers the looks on people’s faces when they tasted his family’s food. “Wow,” they’d say, their eyes looking for its source. “Where is this from?” Only a year later, lineups at that first Osmow’s restaurant snaked, and folks made the trip from out of town. Sam pumped the brakes on his children’s sample tour and the family honed in on expansion. They opened two more Ontario restaurants — one in Brampton, one in Mississauga. At first, Osmow’s resisted franchising, Ben explains, because of the abundance of prep work required for their menu. “We let people convince us,” Ben concedes, and after selling the first franchise in Milton, Ont. in 2015 to a family friend, they sold the next one to a long-time customer. They had no franchise information to offer their business partners; they made their deals with handshakes. Today, Osmow’s is a master franchisor thanks in part to a central commissary and gutsy marketing. When the company committed to franchising, it established a 40,000-sq.-ft. commissary in Mississauga, where the restaurant’s Middle-Eastern and Mediterranean spices and marinades are made and the proteins are prepared. The

22 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

The restaurant business is tough, people are willing to chat. Let’s help each other figure things out

restaurants benefit from the economies of scale, and enhanced quality control and management of supply chains. Osmow’s also manages franchisee expenses by absorbing rising food costs and waiving royalties for COVID-depleted operations. After completing his MBA and working in Toronto, Ben left it all to join his father’s business. “My dad called and said, ‘These franchise applications are piling up.’” It wasn’t a hardship, says Ben, who completed his MBA studies in International Business at the EAE Business School in Madrid, according to his LinkedIn profile because entrepreneurship was a passion and he was “a salesman at heart.” Once the company set up the commissary, “We felt confident we could begin franchising the business.” To start, Ben sat down with potential landlords and explained why they should take a chance on Osmow’s. Curious outsiders, such as that early fascinated customer, were receptive to the idea of this cuisine, and Osmow’s quickly grew to 50 stores. It was at this point that Ben saw the expansion ball in his court. Wouldn’t it be cool, he told his sisters, if they could do a television spot with the Raptors, which happened to be on fire? The “very, very low-budget commercials” with Norman Powell and Fred VanVleet, which exceeded their marketing budget and required dipping into their own pockets, “absolutely hit it through the roof.” When the team won the 2019 NBA Finals, Osmow’s was in the winner’s circle with them. Every metric exploded, Ben says, not to mention every landlord in the vicinity suddenly perked up about this foodservice operation. “I didn’t realize how big you were,” they told Osmow’s, the smallest brand ever to advertise during the NBA finals. “We’re high-risk people,” Ben confirms. “If you want to make shawarma a category people can know and love, you’ve got to take that kind of chance.” The Osmow’s innovation extended to diligence. Marinating the product before sending it to the restaurants for cooking helped; so did Ben’s meetings with would-be franchisees. “I took people to lunch, to dinner. I was very young and I had to work three times as hard.” That included picking the minds of direct QSR competitors in burger, chicken, coffee, and pizza brands — who shared best practices with this enthusiastic upstart. “The restaurant business is tough,” Ben says, “but a lot of people are willing to chat. Let’s help

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each other figure things out.” Today, Ben shares his wisdom with others, including presentations to business schools and podcasts. “My dad was resilient, doing everything to support the family. My sister (Bernadette) and I said let’s focus on doing the same things. When we see opportunities to help others, we do.” Financials were always a challenge, says Ben. His father had taken out two mortgages on the family home and the Osmows simply didn’t have access to capital. The patriarch worked 15 hours a day, so “trusted Bernadette and me a lot,” Ben says. He and his sister introduced consistency to the brand, built training programs and instituted districtmanagement checkups. The plan, Ben says, was to treat the brand as a mom-and-pop operation even while reaching for the stars. That means every franchisee has access to the family’s phone numbers, including franchisee Alice Somani, who called when her chicken delivery didn’t materialize. “I was panicking, but Bernadette said, ‘Don’t worry. We’ll figure it out together’,”

she says, adding in no time, the chicken arrived at her store. The company has exceeded 20 per cent in same-store sales lists for four years, compared to Chipotle’s 11 per cent and Chick-fil-A’s 8.5 per cent. And some 80 per cent of its franchisees have more than one Osmow’s restaurant.

SUPPORTING FRANCHISEE SUCCESS George Habashi met Sam Osmow in 2006. Both were Egyptian immigrants and had lots to talk about — not the least, which was the food the restaurant proprietor had transplanted from their native land. Habashi joined Osmow’s in the Streetsville store, relieving Sam, who was then doing everything alone. “I was the cook, assistant, everything, just following him around. He’s a very hard worker.” No one knew Osmow’s at the time, Habashi says, and “our restaurant wasn’t very busy. But it kept growing.” Habashi learned everything he could from Sam for almost two years, before bowing out to go to school. But he returned in 2015, having never taken his eyes off this emerging enterprise. He called

Sam and said, “I heard you’re growing. How about I join you again?” And Habashi did just that, launching his first Osmow’s — the company’s second franchise — in Brampton, Ont. Today, Habashi operates five Osmow’s franchises, adding one a year. He hooked his wagon to Osmow’s because he believed in its food and concept and was impressed with the marketing. He likes the regular corporate meetings’ platform for open communication, industry updates, business progress discussion, idea-sharing, and training support. “They’re very present,” says Habashi. “It gives me confidence to expand.” From the start, says Ben, “We knew we were doing something right — we just had to get more people to buy the food, had to figure out how to put food in more people’s hands.’” Now 160 restaurants later, Osmow’s puts food in people’s hands by way of 35 new restaurant openings a year. It has seven corporate stores, 153 franchises across Canada and two locations in the U.S. — Miami and Buffalo. “We want to see where we can take

Congratulations PINNACLE AWARD RECIPIENTS

From Sysco Canada’s Leadership Team

Jon Ratnasamy, Vice President, Supply Chain Troy McLaughlin, Vice President, Merchandising Andrew Wentzell, CFO, Senior Vice President Finance Sarah Anseeuw, Vice President, Sales and Marketing Jason Welter, Vice President, Human Resources Roger Francis, President, Sysco Canada

Company of the Year: Osmow’s Shawarma Regional Company of the Year: Pizzeria Libretto Restaurant Group Independent Restaurateur of the Year: Pearl Morissette, Jordan, Ont. Chef of the Year: Andrea Carlson, Burdock & Co., Vancouver FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM Supplier of the Year: Maple Leaf Foods

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My parents said, ’Let’s help the kids live a better lifestyle and get them away from a Third-World country, religious barriers, and mandatory military service.’ Being Canadian is everything to us

of consumers and building a cult-like following. Just look around on October 15, “Shawarma Day,” instituted by Osmow’s and picked up by its competition, when customers line up for promotional pricing and sales spike by 30 per cent.

GIVING BACK

Osmow’s believes in making a difference in the world, one meal at a time. It’s this belief that inspired the the brand,” Ben says. “There’s a lot of runway establishment of the Osmow’s Hope Fund in for us.” The company is aiming for 500 2020 to help developing communities both restaurants across North America by 2027, locally and abroad. With a vision to eliminate and to be “one of those Canadian brands that hunger as a barrier to progress, Osmow’s is goes into the U.S. and absolutely kills it.” driven by a set of core values that emphasizes The Canadian piece is important to the Osmows. “My parents said, ‘Let’s help the kids the commitment to serve communities. The goal is to consistently share the stories of these live a better lifestyle and get them away from communities while leveraging their platform a Third-World country, religious barriers, and to raise awareness and drive meaningful mandatory military service.’ Being Canadian change. By utilizing their influence, Osmow’s is everything to us.” aims to bring attention to the challenges faced Osmow’s Shawarma, revolutionized the shawarma category by bringing a modern spin by these communities and inspire action towards creating a better future for all. to traditional recipes, capturing the attention MAPL2428_MapleLeaf_Congrats_Ad_3.375x4.875.pdf 1 2023-11-10 2:33 PM

The Osmow’s Hope Fund initiative has been raising funds to feed children daily in places of education in Zambia, India and Pakistan. A recent employee trip to visit schools in Zambia that were directly impacted by Osmow’s donations allowed both the corporate team and franchisees to see firsthand the positive impact their fundraising efforts have made on the young lives in these communities. To date, more than $100,000 has successfully been raised through the Osmow’s Hope Fund. For more than 20 years, Osmow’s has stayed true to its essence, presenting unique dishes — including poutine and Beyond Steak shawarmas — to its target market of hungry Gen Zs and millennials, and it’s the largest Middle-Eastern brand in North America. A quarter century after they arrived, the Osmow family takes occasional trips back to Egypt, no longer weighed down by the same sense of urgency. And today, when they pass through Pearson and see the bustling restaurant with their name on it feeding crowds in Terminal 1, it feels like a slam dunk. FH

Congratulations

TO OUR PARTNER

2023 PINNACLE AWARD WINNER FOR

COMPANY OF THE YEAR

To this Year’s Pinnacle Awards Winners Thank You to All of our Sponsors for their Commitment to Excellence

Thank you for your outstanding contribution to the foodservice industry and for your continued partnership and excellence. From your partners at Maple Leaf Think Foodservice. thinkfoodservice.ca

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OUTSIDE THE BOX

LIBRETTO RESTAURANT GROUP IS ELEVATING ITALIAN COMFORT FOOD BY DENISE DEVEAU | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON GORDON

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Rocco Agostino, executive chef/ partner and Max Rimaldi, founder and CEO

REGIONAL COMPANY OF THE YEAR

he opening of the first Pizzeria Libretto in Toronto in August 2008 garnered more attention than expected. “We got crushed with customers and ran out of pizza dough; lineups started to form,” says Max Rimaldi, founder and CEO, Libretto Restaurant Group, Foodservice and Hospitality magazine’s Regional Company of the Year. The Ossington Avenue-based restaurant was quickly named one of enRoute magazine’s top-10 best new restaurants in Canada. Rimaldi first joined forces with business partner and executive chef Rocco Agostino with the idea of filling a gap that was missing in Toronto. “At the time, the choices were cheap and cheerful quick service or really high end. There was nothing happening in the middle. We wanted to create a casual restaurant that was focused on quality service and ingredients that people could afford.” As a seasoned chef with a fine-dining background, Agostino was tasked with creating “magic” with the pizza creations on offer. The result is a menu that combines classics (margherita pizzas) to the avant-garde (duck-confit pizza). “We were trying to elevate comfort food to another level,” he says. Their initial success came despite the fact the owners did zero marketing, says Rimaldi. “It was purely based on us doing something Toronto hadn’t seen at the time; that is, one of the first VPN [Vera Pizza Napoletana] -certified pizzerias in the city. It was a major coup to be able to offer something new, exciting and different for the city. There is actually a ‘pizza police’ from Italy that sends their people all over the world to certify restaurants.”

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In 2010, they turned their thoughts from Naples to Rome, opening an upscale restaurant concept, Enoteca Sociale. “We had a good amount of success with Libretto so thought, why not do this with a pasta-focused restaurant inspired by traditional Roman recipes,” says Rimaldi. The Enoteca Sociale restaurant on Dundas West led by chef Kyle Rindinella has become such a popular hot spot over the years. Earlier this year, the partners opened a sister location called Ristorante Sociale on King Street. The 3,700-sq.-ft. space can seat up to 110 guests and is inspired by 1970s Italian steakhouses, offering an upscale dinner service that transitions into a sophisticated celebration with live entertainment, including dining-room dancers and a nightly DJ. Now celebrating its 15th anniversary, Libretto Restaurant Group’s portfolio includes five Pizzeria Libretto locations throughout Toronto, as well as its two Michelin-recognized pasta-focused dining establishments, and a central commissary kitchen in Markham, Ont. where it produces Neapolitan frozen pizza and other grocery

items, led by Deni Di Tullio, retail sales and partner. Its pizzas are sold in 250 stores throughout Toronto and Ontario, including at grocery chains such as Loblaws, Rabba Fine Foods, Whole Foods and Farm Boy, as well as a number of independent grocers. The commissary, which evolved during the pandemic, was an important turning point for the company, says Rimaldi. “We were facing zero revenues and half of the staff had moved away.” The idea for selling frozen pizza took hold, he adds. “It’s an incredible story that we’re very proud of. It became a whole new world for us.” Production started in one of their existing restaurant locations, but demand was so high, they kept exceeding capacity. They then moved the frozen-pizza operations to a dedicated facility, complete with loading docks and delivery trucks, producing 15,000 to 35,000 pizzas a week depending on the season. “We still keep on pushing capacity,” says Rimaldi. “It has been a massive learning opportunity.” With competition heating up over the

years, the Libretto Group prides itself on always staying ahead of the curve while remaining true to the principles that started it all. “Rather than looking at what others are doing, we move forward with the things we believe in and what makes sense for us — such as always making sure we use local, seasonal ingredients,” says Agostino. “For example, we went to a cheese maker in Toronto to create a fior di latte cheese that didn’t exist at the time.” “The other part of our success is something that is hard to see, but I can always feel it,” says Rimaldi. “It comes from the horrible experiences I had in the industry at a time when kitchens were very militaristic, and chefs ruled by fear. Believe it or not, I was that person as well. Chef Rocco and chef Kyle are cut from a different cloth; one that shows kindness and support in the kitchen. Without giving away our secret sauce, it really comes down to wanting to operate differently. It sounds corny, but it’s a real thing.” As local mainstays, Agostino says they often take part in fundraising events, including annual pizza events at Brickworks

and Christie Pits to support organizations such as the David Suzuki Foundation. “We also take part in events for Foodshare. We’re really big on family and kids, which is where we donate our efforts.” The company also has a strong affiliation with colleges such as George Brown to encourage students to stay in the industry as part of the Italian program. While they are not back to pre-COVID sales or staffing levels in their restaurants, Rimaldi is hopeful sales will return to the 90 per cent-plus range by the end of the year. “The big chunk that has been missing is the lunches.” Ultimately staying ahead of the game comes down to the intangible aspects, says Rimaldi. “We make sure our staff is happy so when they serve customers, you can really feel that warm hospitality. From a food perspective, chef Rocco is unrelenting when it comes to quality. Everything must pass the blind-tasting test first. Then we talk about price.” On the operational side, the partners are vigilant about their financials down to the smallest detail, says Rimaldi. “We have always taken our financials seriously. From

2023

Max Rimaldi, founder and CEO; Deni Di Tullio, managing partner; Kyle Rindinella, chef and partner; and Rocco Agostino, executive chef/ partner

day one we have used software to track daily sales, labour, and costs right down to the minute. We can see exactly where we are for any week and know what needs to be pushed or cut. It’s like any other business. If you’re not crossing your t’s and dotting i’s, you’re in big trouble.”

The partners have often been approached by real-estate developers about expanding, he adds. “My answer always is, ‘I’m interested in this space if the timing is right.’ We are not going to force expansion for the sake of it, but rather on finding more creative and smart ways to do business.” FH

A WORLD APART RESTAURANT PEARL MORISSETTE HAS FOUND ITS RECIPE FOR SUCCESS BY ROBIN ROBERTS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE PALMER

t was an idea born for a barn: Set your restaurant in the heart of an agricultural area, harvest the lovingly grown ingredients right outside the door, partner with like-minded local growers and producers, and blend that bounty into ever-evolving prix-fixe menu inspired by seasonal French cooking. Then, pair that fine fare with vintages from your own onsite winery, along with select international bottles from producers who share the same passion and care. Now, serve it all to discerning diners seated atop said (converted) barn, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the surrounding vineyards, gardens and peach orchard, and you have a recipe for success. And not just minor success. Restaurant Pearl Morissette, Foodservice and Hospitality magazine’s winner of the Pinnacle Award for Independent Restaurateur of the Year,

has garnered major plaudits from notable publications such as Bon Appetit, Toronto Life, Air Canada’s enRoute, the Globe & Mail and Maclean’s Magazine, as well as landing on numerous “Best Of” lists. Quite the feat for an eatery located way out in the countryside, in Ontario’s bucolic Niagara region. How do the proprietors maintain such high standards and attract devoted diners (and staff) far from city streets? It all flows from the capable hands of co-owners and co-chefs Daniel Hadida and Eric Robertson, two Ontarians who first worked in restaurants in Toronto then honed their craft in European Michelinstarred kitchens. It was, in fact, Hadida’s idea to open the 38-seat restaurant in the middle of the 42-acre organic farm and winery in small-town Jordan six years ago. Named after managing partners Francois Morissette, the restaurant and winery’s vigneron, and Mel Pearl, a

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INDEPENDENT RESTAURATEUR OF THE YEAR

Co-owners and co-chefs Daniel Hadida (left) and Eric Robertson

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

Toronto real-estate developer, “ Restaurant Pearl Morissette sets itself apart through the use of regional ingredients, relationships with growers, and a team culture focused on personal and professional growth,” explains Hadida. “[We] seek to farm simply, connect meaningfully, share abundantly, and preserve for generations. We believe that to do that well requires harmony amongst all parts of the business.” Robertson says the team enjoys passing on that harmony — and passion for the foods they prepare — to the diners they serve. “We connect our guests to nature and regenerative farming through education, curiosity, and a commitment to uncompromising excellence,” he says. “I want to create an escape for people, even if it’s for only a few hours.” The chefs are bound to freshness by being bound to each season’s bounty, and by maintaining relationships with local farmers, foragers, ranchers and producers. “We’re always on the lookout for different producers that have values in line with our own,” says Hadida. “We talk to other chefs and growers, scour social media, explore farm markets, and

order seeds and plants to grow at the onsite farm and garden.” Robertson adds that the mutually respectful nature of the relationships they’ve cultivated and the quality of the ingredients keep them inspired and motivated. “Coffee also helps with the creative process,” he quips. The eight-course tasting menu is $176 per person, or for $250 per person guests can enjoy 15 courses at a private chef ’s table, which can include West Coast clams, Newfoundland sea urchins, Cornish hen cooked over a fire of peach wood from the orchard, and Bosc pear tarts with malted barley. But the menu is always changing, so you may or may not get any of these since they’re always creating something new. As for the dishes they look forward to creating most, Hadida says that, because the menu is always changing, there is not a lot of room for favourites. “That said, I really enjoy cooking joints of meat slowly over fire and sauce making. I also love to decorate cakes.” Robertson simply enjoys cooking with the seasons. “You have the build-up of anticipation [for] the best tomatoes, peaches,

asparagus or shellfish each year. I just love getting things at their peak.” And having access to an established, worldrenowned wine cellar, opened in 2008, upon which the restaurant’s values and respect for the land is based, is a bonus. “This is a shared inspiration and the savoury and aromatic wines pair wonderfully with food,” says Hadida. “We are lucky to get access to a wide range of Cuvees, including some rare and old vintages that are only served at the restaurant.” During the pandemic, Hadida says their immediate focus was to continue supporting farmers by purchasing whatever they could. In an effort to get healthy food to people who were housebound, they experimented with a delivery grocer service that included simple make-at-home menus. And, during the warmer months, they opened an outdoor restaurant called Le Pré, which helped them through those uncertain times. “We created an outdoor space that was true to the spirit of Restaurant Pearl Morissette pre-pandemic which, through its challenges, continued to feel like we were still doing ‘our thing’ through it all,” says Robertson. “We had

Let’s connect

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pride in creating experiences for guests at a high level, even when our backs were against the wall.” Creating those experiences relies on being on the same wavelength, hard-working staff to maintain the restaurant’s high standards and excellent reputation. It’s important to both Hadida and Robertson to attract — and retain — the best employees. “We find that team players with ambition and communication skills tend to be the most successful,” says Hadida. “A competitive spirit helps to cement purpose during challenging times. Curiosity towards nature is an important attribute as people develop into more senior roles.” He acknowledges the restaurant’s isolated location can be a challenge to attract staff. “We maintain relationships with a number of learning institutions and have also run an internship program. Maintaining a media presence and a reputation for excellence create a valuable standard for prospective team members.” As of this September, the restaurant has implemented an 18 per cent service charge

to all meals. In order to help employees maintain a life-work balance, the restaurant is only open for dinner Thursday to Sunday and lunch on Saturday (noon to 1:30). They offer staff extended health benefits, which include dental, vision and mentalhealth services, two weeks paid vacation per year, GRSP with two per cent matched contributions, continued professional education and team outings, produce and wine allowance, dining discounts and transportation assistance. “It’s fundamental to the business to be a learning environment. We make sure to communicate that well any chance we get,” says Hadida. When not running the restaurant, the two chefs devote much of their time to a few special charities and organizations. For many years, the restaurant has supported Gillian’s Place, one of the oldest shelters in the country, which provides support, counsel, and transitional housing to those facing abuse. They also work with local migrant-worker organizations to provide food directly to farm workers. “Being an

active and responsible member of our local community is fundamental to our success as a business,” says Hadida. That success has translated into numerous kudos inside and outside the industry, which might easily swell heads. Not for these two. “Awards and accolades are great for business, for attracting staff and keeping motivated during the daily grind of running a business,” says Robertson. “We try and experiment a lot, [but we] fail a lot as well. It keeps you humble.” Adds Hadida, “To run a hospitality business well requires modesty. Through honesty and communication with ourselves and the community, we maintain a sense of place and purpose.” And for this particular recognition as recipients of the Pinnacle Award, Hadida says, “Love and respect to all of the growers, small restaurants, and those seeking to push their world into a more harmonious and inclusive place.” Robertson adds, “Thank you to everyone who makes this crazy restaurant work every day.” FH

Congratulations

PINNACLE AWARD WINNERS from the new Toronto RH Outlet Store 70 Coronet Road, Etobicoke, ON | 416-238-7718

WALKING HER OWN PATH CHEF ANDREA CARLSON'S JOURNEY TO SUCCESS HAS BEEN PAVED WITH HARD WORK, PERSEVERANCE AND PASSION BY SUZANNE CHIN-LOY | PHOTOGRAPHY BY TANYA GOEHRING

34 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

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INDEPENDENT CHEF OF THE RESTAURATEUR OF THE YEAR YEAR

ith a name that’s synonymous with excellence in the culinary world, chef Andrea Carlson recently became the first female chef in Canada ever to receive a Michelin Star, shattering glass ceilings and setting a new standard of excellence in the industry. Her journey to success has been paved with hard work, perseverance, and a passion for creating extraordinary dining experiences. But if you ask her and her partner Kevin Bismanis what their goal was at Burdock & Co. in Vancouver, her answer would be that community has always been the heart and core of their mission. “Our entire reason for being is that we want to be a part of the fabric of this food community,” says Carlson, Foodservice and Hospitality magazine’s Chef of the Year. “Part of the motivation for wanting to open Burdock was that we wanted to make a neighbourhood place where everyone could come and enjoy eating and supporting [our] local growers — we’re a part of this cycle of farm-to-table — and if there were no more organic farms, we wouldn’t [have Burdock].” Burdock& Co. boasts a tasting menu that changes every one or two months based on the moon cycles. The September menu, “Submerging stones under the Surgeon Moon” ($125 per guest) will feature a root vegetable in each of its five courses. “It’s super fun to use your creative templates and keep it changing all the time,” says Carlson. “So, the next [menu] could probably be based on the rice-drying moon. That happened in October and we’ll use rice from Massa Shiroki, a sake producer here in Vancouver and base some of the dishes on his rice.” Carlson’s passion for gastronomy was ignited at a young age when she began seeking to connect sensory experiences of food with life experiences. For her, [experimenting with food] was “a warm place to be — it’s about the aromas, the visuals, the smelling and tasting, the three-dimensional” art of composing. Not wanting a career behind a desk, she applied to the Pierre Dubrulle Culinary School in Vancouver, studying traditional French culinary basics on a small scale, which she preferred over institutional cooking. “I’ve had the great fortune of always landing in places that were very progressive and very modern,” says Carlson. She

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worked under chef Rob Clark, a pioneer of sustainable seafood and the first chef to adopt the Ocean Wise program, at C Restaurant in Vancouver. “After my time at C Restaurant, I joined Sinclair and Frederique Philip at Sooke Harbour House, where every cook on a station was responsible for creating a different menu daily,” Carlson adds. During her time at Sooke Harbour House on Vancouver Island, Carlson was exposed to regional cuisine and dining, using the freshest ingredients, which reflected the natural world’s beauty and flavours. Carlson recalls, “At Sooke Harbour House, I drew inspiration from the fresh botanicals on the property’s tremendous, beautiful acreage. This passion project of art and food featured an ever-changing daily menu that connected with the community.” Carlson’s invaluable experience of not being able to use any imported ingredients to create whole dishes led her to experiment with comparable substitutes, something she has carried over to Burdock & Co. “Sooke Harbour House was a pivotal experience in the culinary exercise of doing five to seven whole dishes based on these ingredients around you,” she continues. “You couldn’t use any imported [ingredients]. So, [for example], with honey and sugar, the acidic elements came from two crispy begonias. Connecting to fresh products’ natural beauty and integrity was my ‘aha’ moment.” Apart from Burdock & Co., Carlson has other ventures such as Harvest Community Foods, a Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA) grocery store, and Bargo (Gobo), the latest addition showcasing young chefs and sommeliers. Both Vancouver locations focus on using fresh, locally sourced ingredients within a 100-mile radius. By supporting local farmers, Carlson’s vision for food security is emphasized. “On one of the Gulf islands, my partner and I attended a workshop for socialminded businesses for Finding Your Mission Statement,” she says, “We met a woman who helped us identify that our whole reason for being is food security.” Carlson highlights Harvest Community Foods’ significance in sustaining small, local, organic farm networks and fostering community connections. “We offer a CSA bag out of Harvest — but what’s different about what we’re doing is that we’re buying from all local farm networks throughout the season, and we’ll diversify and fill our bags with whatever is exciting that week.”

Our entire reason for being is that we want to be a part of the fabric of this food community

This approach provides more flexibility and freedom from the typical CSA model for individuals and couples. “We went from 40 bags every two weeks to 400 bags every week during the pandemic,” says the Michelin-star chef. “Because the markets had closed, the farmers suddenly had nowhere to sell their products, and the people still wanted access to local products — so having 400 CSA bags going out a week to the community greatly impacted everyone across the board — it shone the light on the essential things which sustained the businesses [and strengthened] the community and the bonds within, which goes back to the idea of food security.” When asked about her most significant

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achievement, Carlson says, “While I’m delighted to have the Michelin acknowledgement, which has made a huge difference to our business, I believe my greatest accomplishment to date was getting through the pandemic. My partner Kevin, who calls himself the “invisible hand,” is my emotional support, working tirelessly behind the scenes. Despite all the struggles and challenges, we managed to keep the same staff — a dedicated group of people who show up daily with so much passion. [Burdock] wouldn’t be here,” she adds, “without open-minded people willing to share its story and ethos.” Carlson explains that the name Burdock was chosen intentionally for its versatility and transformative quality. She notes, “While it is not particularly glamorous or attractive, wildcrafted Burdock is used in teas and herbal remedies, and cultivated Burdock is frequently used in stews and braises in Japanese and other Asian cultures. Despite its natural earthiness, Burdock also has a surprisingly light sweetness that makes it a beautiful plant.” In discussing her aspirations, Carlson describes her business as evolving serendipitously and following a natural flow. “It’s not been a year since we’ve had the Michelin,” she admits. “One of the most common questions after we got the Michelin star from the media was: ‘What are you going to change or do differently now that you’ve got the Michelin star?’ My question is, why would we change? That’s always been our thing at Burdock. We’re walking on our own path toward a sustainable, happy life.” FH FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

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THE FUTURE IS NOW MAPLE LEAF FOODS IS ON TRACK TO BECOME THE MOST SUSTAINABLE PROTEIN COMPANY ON EARTH BY NICOLE DI TOMASSO | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN SUMMERS

Maple Leaf Foods, sustainability is more than just a buzzword — it’s a guiding principle. By setting audacious goals and taking concrete actions to reduce its environmental impact, prioritize food safety, improve animal welfare and engage with communities, Maple Leaf Foods is setting a higher standard for the entire food industry. Headquartered in Mississauga, Ont., Maple Leaf Foods, Foodservice and Hospitality’s Pinnacle Award winner for Supplier of the Year, is a leading protein company that employs approximately 14,000 people and produces high quality, innovative products under the following brands: Maple Leaf, Maple Leaf Prime, Maple Leaf Natural Selections, Schneiders, Mina, Greenfield Natural Meat Co., Lightlife, Field Roast, Fantino and Mondello, Lunch Mate, Grab’N Snack and more. The company’s portfolio includes prepared meats, ready-to-cook and ready-to-serve meals, snack kits, value-added fresh pork and poultry and plant-protein products. As of 2022, the company reported $4.7 billion in sales. “We supply branded and private-label products to foodservice customers from coast to coast, and in 2021, we became the largest

branded manufacturer in packaged meats within the Canadian foodservice industry,” says Josh Kuehnbaum, senior VP Foodservice Sales & Marketing - North America, Maple Leaf Foods. Since early 2022, the commercial production of bacon has continued to ramp up at the company’s new $182 million, 73,000 sq. ft. Bacon Centre of Excellence in Winnipeg to meet growing customer and consumer demand. A key foodservice partner benefitting from this new facility is A&W Canada, according to a company release. That same year, Greenleaf Foods, SPC, teamed up with Booster Juice to bring plantbased protein to its permanent menu at locations across Canada for the first time. The chain now offers two new sandwiches, the Italian Crumble Plant-Nini and Italian Crumble Plant Wrap, featuring Field Roast Italian Garlic & Fennel Plant-Based Sausage, which is crafted with eggplant, onions, sweet peppers and seasoned with sea salt, fennel seed and garlic. The foodservice ideation process originates from The Maple Leaf ThinkFOOD! Centre where partners, product developers and chefs can innovate and collaborate on food concepts and menu ideas, according its website. The 25,000-sq.-ft. facility features a development kitchen, pilot plant for small-batch

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development, presentation kitchen, back-ofhouse testing kitchen, sensory testing area, presentation forum and a culinary library. Beyond its product development, one of the most remarkable achievements in Maple Leaf Foods’ sustainability journey is becoming the first carbon-neutral food company in the world in 2019, and the first food company in Canada to set science-based targets to reduce its greenhouse-gas emissions, approved by the Science-Based Targets initiative. “Maple Leaf Foods set an ambitious science-based target to reduce our carbon emissions by 30 per cent by 2030. Our goal is to reduce our environmental footprint as an organization, [with a focus] on electricity, natural gas, water, solid waste and food waste,” says Kuehnbaum. “Currently, we have a wide range of initiatives in flight across our network as we work toward this goal.” In fact, the company’s Heritage facility in Hamilton, Ont., which spans approximately 500,000 sq. ft. of floor space and employs more than 900 team members, was recently awarded the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Silver certification by the Canada Green Building Council. The facility has implemented several initiatives that have led to gradual reductions in the company’s environmental impact,

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SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR

(Clockwise) Josh Kuehnbaum, senior VP Foodservice Sales & Marketing - North America; Colin Burke, Sales director; and Kate Longmire, VP Marketing & Innovation.

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

including a national LED lighting retrofit program, equipment efficiency and optimization upgrades, ammonia heat recovery and wasted-heat recovery systems, composting and recycling programs, control measures and closed-loop systems for water use and improvements to storage, handling and employee training to reduce food waste. As a result, the facility reduced its electricity intensity by 72.9 per cent, natural gas intensity by 47.2 per cent, water intensity by 54.8 per cent (all from a 2014 baseline), solid-waste intensity by 51 per cent (from a 2015 baseline) and food-waste intensity by 45.4 per cent (from a 2016 baseline). Additional company-wide achievements include a 99.1-per-cent reduction in antibiotic use in the company’s hog-production operations since 2014; 17.1-per-cent reduction in solid waste intensity since 2015; and the completed conversion of all Maple Leaf sow barns to its Advanced Open Sow Housing System by the end of 2021. Sustainability can also extend beyond environmental concerns. Through community-impact programs, Maple Leaf Foods supports initiatives that address food insecurity. Today, 18.4 per cent of Canadians are experiencing food insecurity and one in four children are living in a food-insecure household. In response to this crisis, the company launched its Maple Leaf Centre for Food Insecurity (the Centre) in 2016. “The Centre [is] an organization that collaborates with non-profit and charitable organizations, the private sector and governments with the goal of reducing food insecurity by 50 per cent by 2030,” says Kuehnbaum. “The Centre works to raise awareness of this pressing social issue, advocate for critical policy changes and invest in scalable programs that seek to directly support people and households facing food insecurity.” In addition to the Centre, Maple Leaf Foods also partners with food banks across Canada and recently launched a new employee-based program called ‘Raise the Good in the Neighbourhood,’ where salaried employees have two free volunteer days with a cause of their choice. Last year, volunteers logged more than 1,800 hours. Maple Leaf Foods has made great strides to recognize the role of diversity, equity and inclusion (DE&I) within its organizational culture in the pursuit of a sustainable and

We’re proud of our vision to be the most sustainable protein company on earth, but the work is just beginning

responsible future. The company’s Diversity and Inclusion Blueprint focuses on four key pillars, including driving accountability to represent the communities it serves; aligning its people practices to its values; facilitating deep listening and nurturing curiosity; and fostering cultural change that creates broad engagement. This year, Maple Leaf Foods was recognized with the inaugural Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Award from North America Meat Institute for demonstrating the strongest DE&I vision and strategic roadmap. It was also named to the Forbes list of Canada’s Best Employers 2023. Highlights from the company’s DE&I initiatives include expanding genderinclusive benefits to support 2SLGBTQ+ team members and their loved ones, such as gender-affirmation procedures and treatments and drug coverage for hormone therapy, and increasing investments in mental-health paramedical coverage. Maple Leaf Foods also partners with the Centre for Addiction and Mental Health (CAMH) for its You Are Not Alone! initiative to stop the stigma, offer accommodation, provide access to support and facilitate education. “We know we’re so much stronger when people know they are accepted and valued for who they are and what they bring to the workplace,” says Kuehnbaum. “Building diverse and inclusive teams is a core pillar within our Leadership Values and we’re building, investing in, recognizing and rewarding remarkable people who value an inclusive workplace, embrace all forms of

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diversity and commit to include every voice in a highly collaborative environment.” While Maple Leaf Foods has made remarkable advances in sustainability, Kuehnbaum says the company acknowledges that there are still challenges ahead, such as climate change, global supply-chain issues, labour shortages and food inflation. However, this awareness is driving the company to push the boundaries of innovation and sustainability further. “Specific to the global supply-chain challenges, everything from packaging to ingredients and raw materials were in short supply with incredibly long lead times, and in keeping with most sectors, labour shortages further augmented the issue,” says Kuehnbaum. “Through large, dedicated and highly concerted efforts [internally] and [externally with our partners], we’re proud of how we navigated the global-supply challenges. That said, we’re always looking for ways to do and be better. To that end, we’ve invested in significant amounts of new equipment and production capabilities to help ensure we continue to delight our customers on a daily basis now and well into the future.” Kuehnbaum continues, “While we have made great strides on our journey, we recognize there’s still more work to be done. Our Sustainability Execution Task Force is focused on near-term reduction and optimization opportunities to reduce our environmental footprint, and we’re exploring longer-term, high-impact greenhouse-gasreduction technologies to help us on our path to meet our emission-reduction targets, including work in anaerobic digestion and our investments in re-generative agriculture within our feed grain supply chain.” By weaving sustainability into every facet of its operation, Maple Leaf Foods serves as an inspiring example for other food companies to follow. Its commitment to sustainability is a testament to the belief that excellence in food production can co-exist with a responsible approach to the environment and society. “We’re proud of our vision to be the most sustainable protein company on earth, but the work is just beginning and, as with anything, we’re all better together,” says Kuehnbaum. “I’m encouraged by the conversations we’ve been having within the industry [and] identifying ways we can collaborate to fight climate change and help protect and preserve our planet for future generations.” FH

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ROSANNA CAIRA LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD

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THE GENTLE GIANT

AT THE CORE OF PETER OLIVER’S LASTING LEGACY WAS HIS GENUINE LOVE OF PEOPLE AND HIS DESIRE TO MAKE THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY A BETTER PLACE BY ROSANNA CAIRA

Peter Oliver’s legacy on the foodservice-and-hospitality industry is long lasting and far reaching. The respected entrepreneur never set out to be a restaurateur but ended up becoming one of the industry’s most successful operators and icons, and also its most passionate advocate and champion, building an empire that includes a total of 69 restaurants and event spaces, including 24 under the O&B banner with an additional 45 units that form a part of the company’s strategic partnerships, employing 3,950 employees across the country. Born in Cape Town, South Africa on July 30, 1948, Oliver moved to Canada in FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

1967 to study Business at Montreal’s McGill University. Upon graduation, and after paying off his student loans, he returned home for a short time, before deciding to move permanently to Canada, where on his arrival he proposed marriage to Maureen Murphy, an Air Canada flight attendant he met in 1968. The couple married in 1974 and subsequently, Oliver began a career, first as a stock broker and then as a commercial real-estate broker. It was only after getting his first restaurant real-estate listing — a bakery café located at Yonge and Eglinton that he decided to try his hand at owning a sandwich shop, “believing he could serve a better sandwich than anyone

else,” quips his son Andrew, who now helms O&B, adding that sandwich shop, Oliver’s Bakery Café, “grew into a restaurant that grew into an empire.” Once Oliver’s Bakery became successful against the odds, it proved he had made the right decision, and with no previous background in the industry, Oliver charted a course for success that’s both remarkable and unrivalled, spawning a cadre of successful, leaders dotted across the Canadian hospitality landscape, many of whom he nurtured and mentored. It’s hard to look at the restaurant landscape and not feel the tentacles of Oliver’s tutelage at play — from countless chefs, such

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The thing that made Peter different was his incredible determination to understand the human condition. He looked at restaurants intellectually, almost like a social experiment - Bruce McAdams

visitors to the city and that’s what we wanted to create at Jump.” It was Peter’s vision for that restaurant that stoked a fire in Bonacini and brought the two icons together to create a framework for a partnership and a legacy that would last for more than three decades. But beyond that new restaurant, Jump, “Peter wanted to build a company that stood for something and that everyone could be proud of, that people felt a part of something unique and special, but most importantly lasting. Part of our philosophy is we wanted our restaurants designed to be of timeless quality. We looked at O&B as Four Seasons meets Cirque du Soleil, two iconic Canadian businesses that are world class, respected and revered. Four Seasons because of its pure driven

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PAUL YU

as Anthony Walsh and John Horne, who were groomed in the O&B family, to many others who have opened their own restaurants and businesses and continue to impart the values and wisdom they gained working alongside the great visionary. Of course, Oliver’s relationship with chef Michael Bonacini was central to his success, a fact Oliver repeatedly acknowledged. As an astute businessman, he knew to truly succeed in the foodservice industry he needed to hitch his wagon to a star chef who knew the world of food inside out. Bonacini was that chef. Oliver tried repeatedly through the years to entice the celebrity chef into a partnership, but it wasn’t until 1992 that the two teamed up. “Peter came along with the opportunity to have some equity ownership in a restaurant, which I personally was looking for,” explains Bonacini. Together, the two created a company that changed the trajectory of many lives and which became the gold standard for other operators to replicate. “Peter is, and always was a great communicator, engaging to listen to,” recalls Bonacini. “He would always have big ideas and a vision and spoke about this new restaurant that he had in mind to do downtown. We both agreed it would be like Union Square Café in New York. There was this tangible icon and a restaurant that we both felt so strongly about, about what it stood for and what it represented — longevity, commitment to excellence. It was serious food but it wasn’t fine dining, it was very accessible but worked well for New York City, for businesspeople, for the

guest-satisfaction, hospitality and exacting standards and Cirque du Soleil [because it promoted] expecting the unexpected, the excitement of innovation and creativity.” What made Oliver so compelling and impactful? Standing 6'4", his towering presence, along with his perpetual smile, and his endless charm, meant Oliver could convince anyone to follow the leader. He dreamt big and lead with care while fastidiously creating a positive workplace culture where employees were valued and, where they in turn, delivered exceptional customer service; he relished developing staff and pushing them out of their comfort zones; and he believed and insisted that the foodservice-and-hospitality industry could always be better. At the core of what made Oliver eminently successful were his leadership skills. “He was a ferocious leader,” says Bonacini and as “genuine individual as you could ever want to meet. He loved life. He was excited about our industry and he was a huge ambassador. The value that he put upon the employees was inspiring. “I’ve never known anyone with more natural leadership ability,” says Theresa Suraci, marketing manager, O&B. Suraci worked with Oliver for more than 25 years. “When Peter walked into a room, all eyes were on him, in part due to his commanding stature, but also because he knew instinctively how to share his vision for something and get everyone excited. Whether that was a new

service idea for the restaurants, a fresh way of canvassing for a bike-a-thon, or maybe planning the most amazing staff party ever, Peter’s passion and energy were so compelling that those around him had no choice but to step up and help. “Larger than life, charismatic, and relentlessly positive, Peter took on the world with a zest for living and a can-do attitude,” adds Suraci. “He had big dreams for O&B; actually, he had big dreams for everything he really cared about — his family, his friends, and giving back to his many communities.” Bruce McAdams, associate professor at the University of Guelph, agrees with Suraci: “Peter had an ability to dream big, really big. In many ways his dreams were unrealistic but when he shared them, you walked away believing you could make them come true anyway. He did this with an

even hand; it didn’t matter if you were the head chef or a part-time hostess, Peter made everyone feel they were the most important person in the company.” Adds McAdams, “Peter’s strength was bringing humanity to his role as leader of the company. The thing that made Peter different was his incredible determination to understand the human condition. He looked at restaurants intellectually, almost like a social experiment. To Peter, restaurants were about the people, the employees and guests, and the experiences and relationships that resulted from the preparation and sharing of a meal. Restaurants not only provided work, but an opportunity for people to reach their potential. That is what made Peter different; that is what made Peter special.” Scott Bellhouse, owner of Bellhouse Hospitality, a Victoria B.C.-based recruitment company, who got his start with O&B as assistant manager at Jump, eventually growing into the role of Director of Operations, says “Peter knew how to recognize talent and hired great people (you either have that skill or you don’t, in my opinion). He knew how to motivate his best people and get the most out of them.” According to son Andrew, “He saw his primary responsibility as being Chief Inspiration Officer, passionately championing the company vision and values towards the goal of developing a strong corporate culture. He was a natural born leader with the skills to excite, influence and rally/unite those around him. He was also a seasoned cheerleader and it brought him so much joy and satisfaction seeing others reach their potential, especially if he was able to play a helping hand in that.” What made Oliver such a great leader was his fanatical obsession in creating a positive

workplace culture. Phil Wylie, who today serves as VP of Human Resources, recalls the fastidious process of being interviewed by Oliver before he was hired. “Peter hired me in 2012 after an extensive search and intensive interview process. Before I got the job, Peter had me meet with eight other people in the company and he needed a strategic human resources plan for O&B — he made me do three iterations before we settled on a plan with eight priorities and more than 150 action steps. I remember at first thinking that he was a little obsessive, but I came in time to realize that he went to these extremes because he valued culture so much; and to be hiring an outsider to be charged with all people and culture initiatives was something he didn’t want to mess up.” While many restaurateurs are known to fly by the seat of their pants, Oliver was razor focused in his approach to being professional even, when the company was still in its infancy. “When I first joined O&B, Peter had a dream of creating a company handbook,” recalls Suraci. “Although there were only two restaurants at that time, he believed if he could explain the company’s vision and values to employees clearly in black and white, he could establish the roadmap for our future growth and success. He had a folder full of scraps of handwritten notes, letters from guests, inspirational quotes and scribbled napkins from impromptu meetings with Michael — a mishmash of thoughts that had resonated with him over the years as to what true hospitality really meant. Bit by bit, we pieced it together into a manual, along with Peter’s elegant narrative, and that handbook is what has become the de facto playbook for the company.” He so enjoyed meeting with new hires

Congratulations!

Peter Oliver Recipient of the Rosanna Caira Lifetime Achievement Award! Peter’s remarkable journey has inspired us all. from your friends at

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Peter Oliver, co-founder of Oliver & Bonacini

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

that he took each new hire out to Auberge du Pommier for four-hour orientation lunches. “Peter was sometimes reticent to change; he very much wanted to continue to host his ‘Peter Oliver Orientations’ — even when I explained to him that he didn’t have enough days in the calendar to keep up with the number of employees that had been hired,” says Wylie. “As we continued to work together, he came to appreciate the ways we kept the spirit of the early culture alive within the larger group; even if we had by the very nature of our success, evolved the culture into something new.” Oliver had as much time “for the dishwashers as for the most celebrated chefs or tenured managers,” says Wylie. “He was curious about everyone and his enthusiasm could be infectious and impacted people for the better. His vision had always been for O&B to become iconic amongst the bestmanaged companies in the world and by committing to hard work and a relentless pursuit of opportunity, for himself, and our team, he made that a possibility.” He believed emphatically that the industry should be viewed as a serious employer, and not just as a pitstop to somewhere else. But in order to do so, he understood the importance of making the industry more professional, and to put structures and processes in place. “It was very important to Peter that the industry be taken as a serious industry, not just a job to get you through school,” says Bonacini. “There was an incredible world outside our industry where you could learn and grow and take on great responsibility; you could understand business plans, enjoying the creativity of both front and back, and put it together in a way that the industry is not this ramshackle, flying-by-the seat of your pants, loosey-goosey type of business.” “Together with Michael, they helped re-position the hospitality industry as one where you could enjoy a lifetime of growth that included education, benefits, travel, mentorship and development,” says Andrew. “They were pillars in the industry; they raised the bar on service and quality, and ignited the fine-dining culture in the financial area of downtown. They strived to make hospitality the kind of career that you could take great pride in and get fulfilment from, not just a temporary stop along the way.” Clearly, the company succeeded because the partnership was built on a strong mutual

foundation of respect and a common shared vision. “It’s amazing how few times there were that we were upset with one another,” boasts Bonacini. “Peter was and still is such a great North Star, he was the voice of reason; you could always go to him and have a good conversation and feel better,” says the co-founding partner of O&B, his voice cracking with emotion at remembering his partner and friend. Oliver’s relentless pursuit of excellence fuelled his zealous drive to success. “Peter was also a go-big-or-go-home kind of person,” says Suraci. “His sights were always set on excellence and elevating things to the next level. He was fanatical about details and getting things exactly, precisely right. “Sparkle, details and buzz” became the mantra Peter and Michael created together for the restaurants. “Good enough” never entered Peter’s vocabulary. He demanded a sense of urgency, as well. He wanted momentum, and to get things done, and he was not about to be put off by any barriers or roadblocks. Anyone of that mindset learned pretty quickly that they had better just get out of his way, including myself,” says Suraci. “My dad was very curious and head an

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unquenchable thirst for learning, which made him a good listener,” says Andrew. “Everyone appreciates being heard and having one’s opinions considered. Not to say, he often folded from marching to the beat of his own drum, but he was always open to other people’s ideas and thoughts. He could be blunt with criticism when things weren’t done right, but it made him feel good to make others feel good as well, so he never left a compliment unsaid, and he genuinely believed that every person in the company was the most important person in the company.” For Oliver, life was about passion and commitment — whether to an ideal, to the business or to his family. “He was committed to taking hospitality to a higher level, where civility, intelligence, grace and manners were always front and centre. He wanted his staff to find meaning in their efforts, and to feel that they belonged to something important. Helping people to untap their personal potential was a priority to him. He might not always know the solution to a problem, but he had a knack for choosing the right person to “pin the C on” (a sports term he affectionately used to designate someone captain)”, says Suraci.

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Peter loved to empower his team, and “he knew how to encourage them and build their confidence; then he would stand back and watch things happen. There’s no doubt he had very high expectations of his team, but he also always had our backs. He was kind, empathetic and compassionate, and consistently gave his people the benefit of the doubt,” says Suraci. As important as his business empire was, it was family that formed and centered him. Oliver was a devoted husband to Maureen, to whom he was married for 48 years. He was also the loving father of four children (Vanessa, Jessica, Andrew and Marc) and doting grandfather to 14 grandchildren with another on the way. He worked hard to impart important lessons to his children, to value work and to put themselves in others’ shoes. All four of his children worked in restaurants growing up and, daughter Vanessa, says they “took great pride in being ambassadors for what the company stood for and the values they were raised to have.” When daughter Vanessa, then aged 6 was diagnosed with Type 1 Diabetes, Oliver turned his efforts to volunteering with the Juvenile Diabetes Foundation and quickly became its biggest fundraiser, founding the JDRF Ride to Cure Diabetes in 1986, an event that has raised more than $70 million and engaged thousands of volunteers across the country over the past 36 years. He went on to serve the JDRF’s National Board of Directors from 2004 to 2008 and co-chair the “In our Lifetime Campaign” in 2015 — JDRF’s first major gift campaign, which raised $40 million. He was also a driving force in helping the foodservice community with fundraising initiatives, including the Ontario Hostelry Institute, and he was a key supporter of local hospitality educators, receiving honorary

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degrees from Toronto Metropolitan University and George Brown College. He also founded the Stephen Leacock Foundation, a charity named after the renowned Canadian writer and humourist, with a goal to raise funds for economically challenged youth in Toronto and South Africa. When the time came for Oliver to make the difficult decision to ease out of daily operations, and focus on his grandchildren and his philanthropic interests, he “pinned the C” on his son Andrew and watched with pride as he continued to build the empire and expand into new areas and partnerships. Oliver was always close-by for advice, but he also was secure in his confidence to allow his son to shine. “I’m so proud of what my father created,” says Andrew. “It’s clear he built something with strong values with a passion for quality and hospitality. His work stood the test of time and it’s impressive that my father had the foresight to build something that many years later continues to push the envelope, win awards, attract new talent and develop from within.” When asked how Oliver would want to be best remembered, daughter Vanessa, says, “As someone who put in more than they took out — as someone who inspired and tried to make a difference.” Andrew agrees, saying his dad would want to be remembered for the values he instilled in people — whether his family, friends, employees or industry peers. “And those values live in perpetuity.” But Vanessa is also quick to add, “He would have also wanted everyone to know what a huge part my mum played in all of it. She absolutely shared in his never-ending list of priorities and projects and without her, he would never have achieved the dreams he did.” Oliver was always the “eternal optimist,” says Bonancini. “If something didn’t go well — a good, seasoned employee was leaving, if a deal that you were looking to get done fell through, he would always say, ‘You know Michael, we’re going to turn this into a positive’ and that’s exactly what we would do. No matter how dire things got or how disappointing things were, he would turn around and have that final boost of energy… we’re going to pick up the pieces and make it even better than before. That is a big part of what O&B is today.” While the foodservice-and-hospitality industry has evolved significantly since Oliver landed on the scene in 1978, the impact the

industry giant had on it still reverberates more than 40 years later. “He was a driving force in Canadian hospitality,” says Wylie. “Our restaurants were and are a showcase, proving to Torontonians that our city could be a worldclass hospitality centre — that you could get the same delicious meal at Biff ’s as you could in a small bistro in Paris, or that you didn’t have to go New York for a five-star fine-dining experience, you just had to ride the TD Centre tower elevator to the 54th floor to Canoe. “The second chapter of his legacy is the overwhelming growth of O&B — again leading the way for other Toronto-based hospitality entrepreneurs, showing by doing, that it is possible to scale exponentially, without sacrificing your vision and values through a commitment to culture and customer service.” Though his untimely death last fall at the age of 74, after battling cancer for more than a year, left his family, friends and the industry shaken and grief-stricken, the dogged and determined way he fought through the illness was emblematic of the way he lived his life — with strength, conviction and grace. Like her dad always taught her, Vanessa says she’s trying to focus on the silver linings, “to try to find things I wouldn’t have done without having gone through his cancer journey and losing him.” One of those lessons was “to become a regular blood donor after having seen how the blood transfusions he received in the months leading up to goodbye helped him so much. We talked about whose blood we thought he was getting, and what made that person donate, and how grateful we were that they did.” Always learning lessons, just as her father had taught her, earlier this year Vanessa and a friend organized a blood drive and brought 170 people form the industry together to donate, many for the first time. Ultimately, you could not be in Oliver’s orbit without being impressed or inspired by this giant of a man. As Suraci states, “In the end what impressed me the most about Peter was his genuine gratitude — for his family, for his ability to give back, and for his team at O&B.” And, as Wylie says, “Peter will be remembered by most not just because of his visionary leadership, or his proven ability as a builder, or his passion and commitment for his philanthropic work but for his genuine interest in people, and how he made them feel. And that’s a powerful legacy.” FH

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

SLUG HERE FRANCHISING

RISE OF THE FRANCHISE The stages of franchising each bring challenges and opportunities BY ALLAN D.J. DICK

t its core, franchising is nothing more than a strategy for business expansion. Most franchised restaurant systems begin with a single-unit operation. The restaurant proves to be successful, and the founder believes the concept and its success can be replicated elsewhere. The founder could choose to invest in and open more restaurants, or they could choose to expand their operations through franchising. Depending on one’s circumstances, the latter option may be more attractive. To that end, franchising typically allows a restaurant concept to grow faster and at a reduced risk, utilizing the capital and efforts of would-be franchisees. In turn, the franchisor realizes a smaller return from each unit than if it operated it itself. Franchising a restaurant concept goes through fairly identifiable stages, from “birth” to “emerging” to “growth” to “maturity” and, potentially, to “exit”. Each stage brings with it new challenges and new opportunities. Most restaurant concepts are not started in

STAGE 1

BIRTH

anticipation of future growth by franchising. Some, however, are. Irrespective of the original intention for the concept, the birth stage for a restaurant franchise system must have the following characteristics: • a name that holds prospects for obtaining a registered trademark; • a unit that not only generates profit, but sufficient profit such that, if operated as a franchised business, it would continue to be profitable in the face of the added expenses that a franchisee would be required to pay to the franchisor (and possibly others); and • a “system” that includes all or some of the following components — a distinctive look and feel to the restaurant design, an optimal footprint, proximity to a welcoming customer base, a recommended or fixed equipment list, a methodology for preparation and service and an intended brand image.

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The birth stage is also when the wouldbe franchisor must first understand the legalities and regulatory environment affecting franchise sales and franchise relationships. To that end, where statutorily required, the “system” must also include a form of disclosure document, a franchise agreement and a wide range of potential ancillary agreements to provide to prospective franchisees. Supplementary issues for consideration at the birth stage include whether the restaurant franchisor intends to supply certain core products to its prospective franchisees and the logistics of doing so, as well as whether it intends to sell units with sites in hand or before sites have been identified. These decisions may change over time. With these attributes in hand and determinations made, the franchisor can begin to sell franchises.

STAGE 2

EMERGING FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

An emerging system begins with the first franchisee and, from this author’s perspective, continues until the system reaches such a size that the franchisor has created independent value in itself as a franchising company. Hallmarks of value include, among other things: • a stream of royalties and other payments coming in the door from franchisees; • receipt of rebates from suppliers; and • recognition of the brand outside of the trading area of the individual units. The emerging stage may last for the first 10 to 20 units. From an administrative perspective, during the emerging stage, franchisors begin to evolve from an initial group of allpurpose personnel into an organization with specialized subgroups in charge of various discrete tasks, such as site selection, franchisee sales, menu development, product input selection, compliance, marketing and training. This organizational division will continue from the emerging stage through to maturity. Additionally, with respect to the issues of site buildout and location control, restaurant franchisors often make the important decisions at this stage of their growth whether they will take direct leases for locations or whether they will require franchisees to do so, and what role they will play in the build out of units, including the possibility of doing the construction themselves. In the growth stage, a franchisor is operating a recognized franchise system. Among other considerations, this translates into:

STAGE 3

GROWTH

• the franchisor’s ability to access capital as desired to hire further staff, expand extra-provincially or internationally and to pursue other development strategies. In connection with this, the franchisor has also retained research and development personnel tasked with evaluating what modifications the system may need to adapt the concept to new markets, if necessary; • the capacity to bring in-house certain activities, which may have been previously outsourced (e.g., marketing, sales, legal, site selection); • increased market knowledge (e.g., about the system’s customer base and the attributes of successful franchisees); • well-established supply chains and rebate agreements;

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• a developed philosophy around unit transfers; • at least one wholesale review of the franchisor’s original agreements to reflect the evolving realities and needs of the system; and • reliable franchisor profits. In Canada, the growth phase may include up to 40 units, give or take. This milestone may require anywhere from five to 10 years to achieve depending on the success of the concept. Given the length of operations typically required to reach this stage, franchisors at this level of growth also start to face renewals and extensions of franchise agreements, renovation requirements and possibly unit transfers and franchisee-successors. Leases are coming up for renewal and new rents must be negotiated or arbitrated. While the system’s branding may need a refresh, its social media profile, messaging and identity are wellcemented in its markets.

STAGE 4

MATURITY

Finally, the franchisor is in a better position to operate locations in the event it needs to terminate a franchise. To that end, in all likelihood, the system has experienced disputes, the creation of franchisee advisory boards and potentially a franchisee association, multi-unit operators, terminations, take backs and re-sales. At the maturity stage, the sky is the limit in terms of system growth. Units are sold and developed at the rate that the system can handle, subject to what markets are available and feasible in light of supply chain issues, competition and the interest and ability of the franchisor to be in and service those markets. At this stage, most founders are considering one or more of the following as next steps: • bringing in professional management; • bringing in private equity; • acquiring other systems; • making an initial public offering; • internal succession;

• merging with other systems; and • potentially selling the system in whole or in part to other investors.

STAGE 5

EXIT

A thorough discussion of the options available to founders of a mature system seeking an exit is beyond the scope of this article. Suffice it to say that throughout the life cycle of a franchise system that achieves maturity, its founders will become well-acquainted with the available exit strategies and will undoubtedly be giving consideration to what they may want to do eventually. Two brief points ought to be mentioned: • early identification of a founder’s longterm goals is critical, particularly when those goals are to eventually exit the system. In that case, the sooner the founder can tailor the characteristics of their system to be most conducive to their proposed exit strategy, the better; and • as part of the franchisor’s strategic planning session, which is customarily held at least annually (and which also ought to include risk assessments and risk management planning and implementation), the agenda should include discussion of the potential or designed exit plan. The trajectory of a restaurant franchise’s development is linear, moving from the first stage to the next, and so on. While this article has explored the typical characteristics of each stage, it’s important to note that the unit count in each phase may vary from system to system; the length of time it takes each system to move from stage to stage will vary; and some characteristics of a particular stage may be realized sooner in the life cycle of a franchise system or later than what is described above. Ultimately, how fast and how well a franchisor moves from stage to stage will typically turn on the franchisor’s level of sophistication, the demand for franchises and by the levels of satisfaction and growth of its franchisees. FH

At Sotos LLP, we have assisted franchisors at all stages of growth. We help franchisors accelerate their development by introducing best practices to contribute to their success. Please contact the author at adjdick@sotos. ca or 416-805-8989 if you are interested in franchising or if you are looking for experienced counsel dedicated to your success to assist you with the development of your system.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

(From left) Angela Lawrence, CCO of Gusto 54 Restaurant Group; Rosanna Caira, editor/publisher, KML and co-founder WITH; Jacqueline Nicosia, CEO & co-owner, Ardo Restaurant, Dova Restaurant, & Viviimports Corp.; Nicki Laborie, owner, Reyna Hospitality Group; and Kate Taylor Martin, founder & CEO of Nutbar.Co

SLUG HERE SHOW REPORT

Innovate, Integrate & Celebrate KML Hosts Seventh-Annual WITH Summit in Toronto BY AMY BOSTOCK, NICOLE DI TOMASSO AND ROSELINE VICTORIA VIJAYAKUMAR

Anne Larcade, co-founder of WITH and president & CEO, Sequel Hotels & Resorts

50 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

Women now occupy 31.3 per cent of independent board seats on hotel public company boards in 2022, an increase from 22.5 per cent in 2021, shared Caira, adding that 67 per cent of directors who are new to a board in 2022 were women. “Certainly, it's encouraging to see progress, and it's about time. Women have played an integral role in shaping this industry, but we've had to navigate through a traditionally male-dominated field. We've had to battle hard against stereotypes and biases, but we are moving the needle,” said Caira. “We know there's a lot of work that needs to be done to ensure gender equality are uppermost in our collective goals. And that's why we're here today, to continue to challenge stereotypes, to break down barriers, and to help create an environment that fosters the growth and advancement of women.” “As we delve into the dynamic landscape of business today, let's not forget the critical mission of advancing diversity and inclusion

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TRINA TURL

Sarah Anseeuw, VP of Sales & Marketing at Sysco, and Tracy Macgregor, VP of Ontario at Restaurants Canada.

early 300 foodservice-andhospitality professionals gathered October 30 at the Park Hyatt Toronto for the seventh-annualWomen in Tourism and Hospitality (WITH) Summit. “Today's gathering represents a momentous occasion for us to come together annually to celebrate the remarkable achievements, the resilience and the boundless potential of women,” said WITH co-founder Rosanna Caira, editor and publisher at Kostuch Media Ltd. “As we know, the tourism and hospitality sectors have undergone significant transformations in the past three years. But it's heartening to see continuing representation and leadership of women in this field. And it's reassuring to see that the proportion of women on Canadian boards and executive office positions continues to increase as an encouraging rate. According to a recent report by Osler Hoskins, among 532 vacant, newly created board positions, a woman was chosen to fill it 45.3 per cent.”

in our industries,” said Anne Larcade, co-founder of WITH and president & CEO, Sequel Hotels. “It is a mission rooted in fundamental justice and shared prosperity. By nurturing talent, we not only bolster the individual, but propel our entire global industry towards greatness. In a world where the power of diversity is increasingly recognized, this summit serves as a rallying cry for measurable change. We are on a mission to dismantle barriers, to shatter glass ceilings, to fill in the missing rungs, and to open doors for women from all walks of life. “The path to equality is not only a moral imperative, but it is also a strategic imperative,” she continued. “Research has shown, time and time again, that diverse teams drive innovation, foster creativity, and yield greater economic outcomes — there is a business case here. By recognizing and nurturing the talents of marginalized individuals, we are unlocking the potential for unparalleled growth within our industries.”

Fireside Chat The day kicked off with a Fireside Chat between Dorothy Dowling, managing director at Horwath HTL, and David Kong, founder and principal at DEI Advisors. Kong shared his career journey as an immigrant who rose through the ranks from a dishwasher and busboy to becoming CEO of BWH Hotel Group for nearly 18 years. “My parents were from Shanghai, China, and in the late ‘40s they fled to Hong Kong where they had four kids,” said Kong. “My parents had one goal and that was to work hard, save money and send their children abroad to further their education. From a young age, I learned the valuable lessons of unconditional love and work ethic.” A graduate of the University of Hawaii, Kong began his hospitality career as a dishwasher then busboy then maître d'hôtel and eventually waiter at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort. He also spent time with Omni Hotels & Resorts as F&B director and Hyatt Hotels Corporation in various senior positions including executive assistant manager, regional F&B director and general manager before moving to the corporate office to head up the business process re-engineering efforts.

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Dorothy Dowling, managing director at Horwath HTL, and David Kong, founder and principal at DEI Advisors

(from left) Lisa Pierce, vice-president, Global Sales and Air Canada Vacations; Amanda Hite, president, STR; Kelly Higginson, president and CEO, Restaurants Canada; and Amy Bostock, managing editor, KML

Anna Dowe, author, speaker and high-performance sales coach, AHLA Foundation

“What I’ve learned from that experience is it’s really easy to come up with good ideas, but it’s really hard to implement big changes,” said Kong. “It involves a cultural shift for people to embrace new ideas.” He was then asked to join the Sales and Marketing department where he developed database marketing capabilities and launched the first Hyatt.com, winning USA Today’s Best Hotel Website award. Fast forward to 2001, Kong started working at Best Western Hotels & Resorts (now BWH Hotel Group). In three and a half years, Kong earned five promotions before becoming president & CEO of the company. “I was lucky to be given the opportunity for all this exposure and the opportunity at Best Western, but I credit myself for taking a lot of risk along the way, taking jobs that nobody knew how to do and enriching myself through the process.” Kong continued, “It’s important to work hard, but that alone is not going to get you ahead. I’m not diminishing the value of hard work, but if you want to move ahead, you have to find a way to differentiate yourself and a way to do that is through experiences,” said Kong. “A career is not a sprint, it’s a marathon.” He also discussed the impetus to the founding of DEI Advisors, a non-profit organization dedicated to helping women and other under-represented groups advance their careers through mentoring, coaching and podcasting. “I was invited to participate in many CEO panels at hotel conferences and I’d be the only minority representation on the panels,” said Kong. “Of all these qualified people in the industry, why is it that every single CEO of a major hotel company is a white male? I wanted to do something about it.” As a result, Kong said DEI Advisors is a way to empower others and encourage them to think strategically about their career by collecting learnings from accomplished leaders, both men and women, about personal improvement, such as how to avoid negative self-talk or how to network with attendees at industry events.

State of the Industry Next up, Amy Bostock, managing editor at Kostuch Media Ltd., served as the moderator

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

for the panel of industry stalwarts who discussed the state of the industry, touching on leading economic indicators, labour shortages, supply-chain issues, inflation and the future of travel. Panellists included Lisa Pierce, vice-president, Global Sales and Air Canada Vacations; Amanda Hite, president, STR; and Kelly Higginson, president and CEO, Restaurants Canada. The panel discussed top challenges in the hotel industry, which included profit-margin pressure and development challenges such as high construction costs, labor shortages and supply constraints. Hite stated, “There's a lot of debt coming due in the next year for hotel owners that they're going to have to re-finance. Some will be able to re-finance, but it's going to cut into their cash flow – in some cases by half. It's a challenging environment for the foreseeable future as long as interest rates [remain] high.” In the restaurant industry, challenges included profitability impact due to rising inflation and increased costs; changing consumer habits as more people order offpremises and make different menu choices which impact sales and profitability; and

52 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

that she felt she could turn to “and really let my guard down and be myself. For the first couple of years, I was searching for role models and mentors, or people that I could come to and say, help me, what do I do? How did you do it? That has slowly changed and I talk a lot about the power of that community that I’ve built since then.” For Lawrence, who started with Gusto 54 on the property-development side, the challenges were a bit different. “The challenges I had were more associated with working in an even more male-dominated industry, which is construction, and managing a team of architects, general contractors and an interior designer. As a woman, I had to be very laser focused on what the end result was. But it was a challenge that I was up for.” “My biggest challenge that I’ve had is with the gender bias in our industry,” said Nicosia. “It doesn’t help that it’s male dominated and my partner is male; he’s not only male, he’s the head chef and he’s also my husband. So, there’s a lot of things that are stacked up against me with the gender bias. We’ll walk into a meeting and they’ll go to shake his hand, and then just kind of stand there, and then I’ll have to interject, put out my hand and say, this is my name, this is my title, and remind them as to who I am.” She said at the start of her career, she stood back a little bit and accepted that the business would only succeed if her husband was in the forefront. “I figured I’m going to push him forward. And then I don’t know what happened during COVID, but something clicked in me and I decided, ‘I’m done with this.’ Now I’ve started to take some chances and come out from behind the curtain.” Laborie wasn’t in the restaurant business but had an online magazine called View the Vibe. “When I opened the restaurant, [people only saw me as a] blogger so I had a bit of pushback there and my confidence was very wobbly. But I stuck to it and we kept going, but the challenges have been non-stop,” she recalled, adding the actual business side of restaurants is the biggest roadblock. “The lack of respect that you can be faced with is quite amazing. I will say that Toronto is a lot better than New York; New York is frightening. My landlord can’t even look me in the eyes and I’m the one that pays the bills. But if my operations director, who is male, stands next to me, the conversation is with the male versus the female. So, I think you just have to stand your ground.” FH

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

TRINA TURL

The afternoon portion of the event kicked off with an awards presentation. The Gender Equality Award was presented to Air Canada (above), while the Katie Taylor Economic Empowerment Award was presented to Mandy Farmer, president & CEO of Accent Inns.

labour shortages exacerbated by the need for a large workforce. Higginson said, “We haven’t recovered. We’re managing high levels of debt. We have historic highs of $100 billion in sales, but then we've got the bottom line where 51 per cent of operators are operating in loss, which was 12 per cent pre-pandemic. So not only are they having significant profitability issues with every aspect of operations, insurance, utilities, food and wages, but they've also got extremely high levels of debt that were taken on throughout the pandemic and now rising interest rates.” The panellists also expressed their views on the impact of the current geopolitical climate on the travel, hotel and restaurant industries with efforts to adapt and find solutions to continue travel services, such as re-routing flights through different countries to reach destinations. “It's a new normal,” said Pierce. “We're still ahead of 2019, but we need to look at the fact that travel patterns are changing. What customers want, where they want to go and the reason they travel is changing.” Higginson expressed optimism for the foodservice market in 2024, anticipating sales nearing $110 million. “We’re talking about bracing for the next six to 12 months as we see some of these challenges, but we do hope to continue to weather through and predict very healthy top-line sales,” she said. In a breakout session titled Let’s Talk Women, a quartet of female restaurateurs addressed the trials and tribulations of being a woman in the industry and what they’ve had to do to achieve success in what has been a typically male-dominated business. Moderated by Caira, the panel featured Angela Lawrence, Chief Culture Officer of Gusto 54 Restaurant Group; Kate Taylor Martin, founder & CEO of Nutbar.Co; Nicki Laborie, owner, Reyna Hospitality Group; and Jacqueline Nicosia, CEO & co-owner, Ardo Restaurant, Dova Restaurant, & Viviimports Corp. The women talked about the challenges and the opportunities they’ve dealt with, pre- and post-pandemic, and how they’re balancing their careers and personal lives. Taylor Martin said in the beginning of her career, there weren’t a lot of role models

EQUIPMENT

HIGH-SPEED THINKING

Combis and rapid-cook technology cover several aspects of kitchen operations BY DENISE DEVEAU

s restaurateurs continue to face labour, supply and inflationary challenges, a growing number of them are looking for equipment that can take care of several aspects of kitchen operations. With that in mind, combi oven and accelerated-cooking technologies are rapidly gaining traction in their quest to reduce staff shortages, food shrinkage, and footprint.

SPEED (AND SIZE) MATTERS Accelerated-cooking innovation is gaining a bigger foothold in cafe and quickservice environments, says Christopher Knight, senior management and business development consultant, The Fifteen Group in Toronto. “There are ovens that combine convection, microwave and infrared that can cook high-quality food items in just a few minutes. We’re seeing a lot of them entering gas-station operations.” “The combination of convection and microwave in models such as Merrychef and TurboChef allows for the heat penetration as well as the roasting and browning capabilities you can’t get with microwave alone,” says Les Richenhaller, restaurant consultant and concept developer, Good Eats Consulting in Ottawa.

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Rapid-cook technologies such as the ACP XpressChef high-speed oven are ideal for multi-cooking needs, notes Ibrahim Tams, executive chef consultant, Ontario for Foodservice Solutions in Milton, Ont. “You can use them for sandwiches, retherming, steaming and baking, and it’s all ventless.” New smaller-footprint entries include the Angelo Pro PRACTICO combi that takes up less than 52 cm of space. “QSR operators that are tight for space are looking at these types of systems because they can be mounted on a wall or on a shelf. Everyone wants mini combis now,” says Granett Douglas, vicepresident of Foodservice at GBS Foodservice Equipment Inc. in Oakville, Ont. Another popular option is the Lainox Oracle, a new system that marries combi wave and high-speed cooking in a single countertop-size unit without the need for ventilation or water-supply connections.

COMBIS TAKING THE WORKLOAD Combi technology has come so far in the last couple of years, says Knight. “Systems that can cook multiple items at the same are highly efficient, and very quick. We are recommending them a lot more.” With the ongoing labour shortages, operators are looking for easy-to-use functional equipment they can organize their

entire workflow around, whether it’s a small chain, senior-living facility, or high-volume catering operation, says Louis Philippe Audette, president Rational Canada based in Mississauga, Ont. “The two trigger words in kitchen are safety and efficiency. These are the two biggest benefits technology can bring to the kitchen.” When Kevin Young, owner of Benny’s Breakfast Bar in Calgary opened his restaurant in December 2016, he was managing the output for the ‘50s-style diner using two deep fryers, two big flat tops, an open-flame grill, six burners and an oven. As business grew, he was unable to keep up, so in 2021 he dispensed with the old equipment and installed Rational combi ovens. Today he has a collection of two small, two half-pan, and one half-pan 10-rack models to handle all the cooking functions, as well as an iVario for wet and contact cooking such as sauces and omelettes for a total investment of about $150,000. “As far as I know, I’m the only single operator that has gone this far with combis,” says Young. He estimates 90 to 95 per cent of the food his restaurant serves is produced with the Rationals. “We even used them to poach the eggs and cook hash browns. They can do so many different things. One oven is set to steam and can poach 24 eggs at a time in four-and-a-half minutes.”

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

Benny’s Breakfast Bar in Calgary runs its entire operation using combi ovens

As a smaller operation (the restaurant seats 88 and the patio another 40) it was essential to provide efficient service. “We eliminated a lot of thinking that goes into service because the ovens are doing the work for the crew,” he says. “We can even build sandwiches and then put them in the oven for toasting and melting.” The biggest consideration for Young was the speed factor. “Over the weekend, we get 500 covers a day and can keep the bill time (from the time the order is rung in to when the food hits the window) to under 15 minutes. We can operate with five servers taking orders on their tablets.” Thomas Chang, co-founder of the Prepshop in Aurora, Ont. is another convert to full-scale combi operations. Prepshop produces about 3,000 prepared meals a week out of its recently acquired 3,000-sq.-ft. facility. “For the first three years we used a convection oven,” he says. “As we grew, we changed to the Combistar by Angelo Pro combi ovens to handle all our output.” The two Combistar units cost a

little more than $30,000. “Because the combi can cook with moisture, it eventually pays for itself because it not only reduces cooking time, but also shrinkage,” says Chang. “That’s something that can’t be understated. The pressurized steaming chamber is very cool and very quick. We use that for parboiling potatoes and sometimes for fish. We only have two combis now, but we will be adding more.”

CONSIDER THE FINER POINTS

quality of the unit.” He adds that water quality is another important consideration. “Think about how hard the water is in the municipality and the grade of the stainless steel in the oven you are purchasing and water treatment options. It’s not exciting, but it’s important.” “These days operators have to maximize whatever they can,” says Richenhaller. “Efficient cooking equipment is how they can do it.” FH

Combi Pro from RATIONAL

Douglas notes that while people often talk about the many things that combis can do, “They can gloss over the physical construction, which can be the most problematic piece of waterrelated equipment.” He suggests operators look beyond the bells and whistles and consider the construction and material used in making the equipment. “A lot of people are wowed by the demos, but don’t sweat the same details around the construction, how the steam is created and the serviceability. These are all indicative of the

54 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

POURING FOR PROFITS

A SPIRITED

Revolution

A glimpse into the latest beverage-alcohol trends and the evolving cocktail landscape

BY ROSELINE VICTORIA VIJAYAKUMAR

FREEPIK.COM

n the wake of the pandemic, restaurants have intensified their efforts to offer patrons a sense of normalcy, while at the same time surprising them with exciting new concoctions. The recent resurgence of classic recipes with unique flavour combinations and the return of retro cocktails such as espresso martinis and highballs depict the evolution of cocktail trends. Ready to Drink (RTD) cocktails are in vogue due to their adherence to quality and the convenience offered. Creative Beverage director Grant Sceney from the Botanist Restaurant in Vancouver says, “RTDs are not detrimental to quality as the attention to detail is the same. If anything, it is more consistent. In most bars now, there’s a lot more work behind the scenes and as craft cocktails take a long time, the RTD evolution speeds up service.” LCBO’s 2023 Q1 quarterly update states that RTDs account for 12 per cent of the reported $1.5 billion in alcohol sales. Among these, seltzers, sodas and coolers account for 36 per cent of RTD sales, while pre-mixed cocktails, light coolers and cocktail coolers make up 18 per cent. Top-selling RTDs include Cottage Springs, White Claw, Twisted Tea, Mott’s, Black Fly and Mike’s Hard. A market-analysis report from CaliforniaFOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

based Grand View Research projects that the global RTD cocktails market will grow at a compounded rate of 14 per cent from 2023 to USD$2.4 million by 2030. Millennials, who comprise the majority of the RTD market, seek flavourful yet low-sugar options, leading to a surge in demand for RTDs emphasizing natural ingredients and unique refreshing flavours. Herbal, botanical and citrus flavours are gaining traction for their subtle sweetness and perceived health benefits. During the holidays, restaurants are abuzz with customers eager to indulge in seasonal delights. The Botanist offers a curated selection of specialty cocktails rich in seasonal flavours, including spiked eggnog, mulled cider, gingerbread Old Fashioned and hot buttered rum. It’s evident the focus has shifted from the ingredients to new and innovative techniques. Restaurants now offer immersive drinking and convention-free experiences. Mixologists showcase their creative side by infusing classic methods with a touch of the modern by using vinegar, distillates, shrubs and cordials to enhance the sourness of drinks, often re-purposing typically discarded ingredients such as citrus rinds, avocado pits and pineapple husks for inventive cocktails. “It’s been an ongoing trend where the

culinary approach has sometimes focused on theatrics,” says Sceney. “However, people are delving more into the way chefs work. We need more culinary approaches in terms of flavour compounds and what is added to the drink.” The strong hand of premiumization is evident, along with a wave of eco-conscious consumers who value transparent sourcing, environmentally friendly practices and the unique narratives behind brands. This mindful drinking trend is not just a movement but a lifestyle that has driven ethical and sustainable practices, especially in the beverage sector. The beverage alcohol industry stands at the cusp of a spirited revolution with the magic of the perfect sip resting in the ethos behind the cocktail. Many bartenders now focus on zerowaste practices, ensuring that every element serves a purpose. As Sceney puts it, “Our restaurant is called Botanist, and it’s focused on the elements around us. It’s not just whipping something up and putting it together; there’s a lot of thought put into each cocktail prepared, ensuring nothing goes to waste.” In this new era of mixology, trend-setting innovations and eco-consciousness will continue to shape the way we raise our glasses, transforming every sip into a narrative to relish. FH

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

CHEF’S CORNER

A STUDENT OF THE GAME Chef Keith Pears is committed to lifelong learning BY DENISE DEVEAU

56 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

He recently left the hotel industry to start his own venture with Ontario-based Accensis Group called Glass Kitchen, an 80-seat upscale brunch concept in Richmond Hill, Ont. where he puts his hallmark creative spin on classics such as upscale Eggs Benedict items (served on focaccia or croissants). Variations include Korean short rib, in-house smoked salmon, lobster. The menu also features seafood scrambled eggs, Baked Alaska with lichee sorbet and raspberry ice cream ($22 to $35). Whatever his pursuit, Pears’ particular passion is combining the art and science of food. “Everything’s been done before. Classic cooking is called that for a reason. I like to try and present flavours in different ways, or it just gets boring.” While his roots are in Vancouver, Pears has settled into Toronto’s culinary scene. “Coming here accelerated my career. The opportunities are greater because there are a lot more people, which means more opportunities. However, while it has helped my career, it hasn’t changed me as a person.” His next goal is to make his new restaurant successful and scale the brand while also preparing for Bocuse d’Or. “I’m focusing on the upcoming competition and looking for support. That means a lot to me.” If all goes as planned, he already has ideas for a fine-dining concept in Toronto. “My ultimate goal is to get a Michelin star.” Whatever path he takes, Pears says he never wants to stop learning. “You can never, never know it all. You always have to be a student of the game.” FH FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

OWAIS RAFIQUE

eith Pears has never been one to shy away from a challenge, whether in work, sports, or culinary competitions. It’s a spirit that has served him well throughout the many stages of his culinary career. Pears grew up around food. His grandparents owned a Chinese café in Vancouver called A Place For Me. “My earliest memories were there, peeling potatoes with my grandma.” Both his parents were executive chefs, and currently own their own café called Argo in Vancouver. After 10 years working with family, Pears felt it was time to move on. “I was unsure about what I wanted to do,” he says. “I realized I had to take things more seriously and decided to give it my all and make it to the top. To make a name for myself meant separating myself from the family business.” He found his motivation when he entered a local cooking competition, placing second. “It was a local food show. I had no time to practice and had only two pans to prepare three courses in half an hour.” Multiple competitions followed, including the Best of the West, City TV’s MasterChef, B.C. Chef of the Year, the Garland Canada International Shellfish Chef Challenge, and Canada’s Great Kitchen Party. A big confidence boost came in 2016 when he won the Chopped Canada title. “People still remember that and it solidified the idea that I can cook with the best.” The fun of competition is understanding the rules and playing them to create something, he explains. “You are pushed to the limits and test yourself to see where you stand with the world. I learn a lot about myself and develop new skills I wouldn’t otherwise.” He will soon be putting that learning experience to the ultimate test. Pears recently won the Bocuse d’Or National Selection competition and will be leading Canada’s culinary team in the finals in 2025 in Lyon, France. Outside of competition, Pears built a successful career with Delta Hotels in Vancouver and Toronto, and most recently as executive chef with W Hotel Toronto. For Pears, they were the ideal venues for exercising his creative spirit and learning from all varieties of international culinary professionals. “In hotels you have more resources and space. You have bigger teams and more structure, which gives you time to experiment and develop the people around you.”

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