Krabi Magazine March 2013

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March 2013 Issue 85

Monk Tattoos Catching a stabbing, old school style

Base Jumping Rocking the rocks on Railay

The Frog & Catfish The best of the best in Krabi?

News, Eating, Travel, Activities, Reviews, Sport, Nature




LUXURY BEACHFRONT PROPERTIES Klong Nin beach - Koh Lanta Yai

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March 2013 – ISSUE 85

Welcome to Krabi

EDITOR: Paul Stretton krabimagazineeditor@gmail.com - 087 2664876 DIRECTOR: Pamela Huxley krabimagazinemarketing@gmail.com - 088 4512178 MARKETING: Zina krabimagazinemedia@gmail.com - 080 7705734 POST-PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR: Thomas Gennaro krabimagazine@gmail.com - 089 9085990 ART GROUP: Graphic Director: Nattapat Sunthonphuriwat [Pat®] tonidesign@gmail.com - 089 7727858 CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS: Paul Stretton, Pamela Huxley, Ton Company, Zina Docto, Emily Huang-Ramirez, Suzi Hall, Jeffrey Dietrich, Adam Baker DISTRIBUTION AO NANG – KOH LANTA KOH PHI PHI – KRABI TOWN - KOH JUM KitDee Media & Design – 075 637459 DISTRIBUTION KOH SAMUI - PHUKET BANGKOK - CHIANG MAI - PATTAYA Bookazine - AsiaBooks Bangkok KitDee Media & Design Company Limited 247/13 Moo 5, Ao Nang, Krabi 81000 Tel: 075 661144 - 075 637459 - Fax: 075 637460 E-mail: krabimagazinemarketing@gmail.com www.facebook.com/krabimagazinekrabi Krabi Magazine is published and produced by KitDee Media & Design Company Limited and is protected by Copyright. No parts of this publication can be used or reproduced in any form – printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – without the written permission of the publishers. The publisher reserves the right to refuse to publish adverts, texts or advertising features. Advertising terms and conditions are to be obtained at: krabimagazine@gmail.com Please send submissions to:

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DISCLAIMER

While great care has been taken in the receipt and handling of material, production and accuracy in this magazine, the publisher will not accept any responsibility for any errors, loss or omissions which may occur. The information and stories published are those of the writers and contributors, and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher or the editor. The description of properties, the contents, whereabouts and price are given in this magazine as a guide only. Please request further details from the advertiser and seek legal advice before entering into any contract to purchase. All information and prices were correct at the time of going to press.

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Here we are again at the start of another glorious month in Krabi. At least it looks glorious from what I can see as I peer through my nicotine-stained windows from the 47th floor of KM Towers. I have to admit that I haven’t been getting out as much as I and my ever expanding buttocks would like, thanks to the “High Season”. So much is happening at the minute that we are racing to fill our pages with all the info, tips and stories you may or may not want to know about in our little corner of the world. So what do we have for you this month then? Well, Emily follows up with part 2 of her Monk Tattoo topic she began investigating last month. This time she gets all spiritual and even “catches a stabbing”, as she so eloquently puts it, herself. Read all about it on page 52. Our feelers over on Railay informed us that there were some people chucking themselves off of perfectly good cliffs there, in the name of sport. Yes, base jumpers have landed - quite literally - over here and we went over to see what, who and more importantly why??? Always on the sniff for some free food, we unearthed a really fun cookery school and sent Emily and Golf off to bash their lemongrass and grind their nuts in delirious pleasure. They had a grand old time and came back smelling of curry. I had pad thai from a plastic bag at my desk. But the balance was soon redressed as I headed out with the wife to Pimalai Resort & Spa on Koh Lanta for some wine that cost 1000 Euros a bottle. Yes, I did. Read what I can remember of the evening somewhere at the back. The Frog and Catfish are possibly the best kept secret around these parts. If you’ve never heard of them - point proven. They are a small place in a “Country Inn” style up a road, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. They hardly advertise since opening only 18 months ago, and yet they are the Number 1 restaurant in Krabi on Trip Advisor. We simply had to pop in and see how they did it. See our happy little faces on page 58. Art comes to Krabi courtesy of the Sofitel and we went to rub some paint-stained shoulders with the finest artists in the country. We unearth another secret corner on the beach, Suzi on Lanta returns with some tips on eating healthy while you’re here and we have another section on some of the best apps on the market this month. We are, quite literally, cooking with the proverbial gas here at Krabi Magazine - and loving it. We may not have social lives, friends, intimate moments with our loved ones or enough quality time with our kids - but that’s what May is for. For now, we are working as hard as our little wotsits will allow us as the sun shines, the waters are calm and you guys are looking for the best places to go, eat, see, smell and touch. I’m away for a 75 Baht massage. I know, her hands are scaly and she smells faintly of ham, but needs must. Enjoy!

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Contents issue 83 A WINDOW ON KRABI

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Highlights of this amazing province: town to temples, beaches to Islands, natural hotspots to cultural places.

Restaurant review

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Swiss excellence @ the L Resort. Nothing better than meat on stone. Ug. Man like.

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TOP 10 ACTIVITIES

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Krabi Province is a haven for sun worshippers and pleasure seekers and is also one of the world’s best destinations for activities such as rock-climbing, scuba diving and kayaking.

HOTEL PR NEWS

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Brands, products and services from our sponsoring hotels.

THE PULSE

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Some local and International things of interest happening now.

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VIEWPOINT 23 A page for blowing off some steam. This month it’s the roads. Children, look away now.

TRAVEL ADVICE

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Timetables, prices and general good advice on getting here and getting away again

THAI CUSTOMS

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There are some pretty big “Dos” and “Most Definitely Do Nots” here, and it pays to tell them apart...

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Base Jumping

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Folks chucking themselves of perfectly good rocks in the name of sport or something. More nutty shenanigans over on Railay.

EATING GUIDE

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A selection of great places to go to eat and drink in the region. We’ve tested them ourselves, so we know. Yes, we do.

Muay-Yo-Chi 36 Neither a Bond villain nor a Japanese delicacy. Something else entirely.

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MEET THE LOCALS

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Pii Bpow, the man behind The Massaman, is in our crosshairs this month. Great guy with a very interesting history...

TRY YOUR THAI

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Stop speaking slowly and loudly to the Thais - try out these handy phrases to impress your friends instead.

Into the blue

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Our underwater section with news of a the Andaman Freediving

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Competition, local tide table and more.

SECRET CORNER Frogs, coconuts and sand. You know you want to.

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march 2013 HOLIDAY READS

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There can be fewer finer things in life than to kick back with a good book. So we take a quick look at some reads to keep you riveted on those long days on the beach.

Cooking up a storm

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A cookery class with some high jinx

In search of Magic ink II

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The second part of our investigation into the world of magical Monk tattoos.

Good Eating

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Our healthy lady over on Lanta gives us some tips on eating well while you’re here.

The Frog & Catfish - Review

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Not a joke - this place is the best kept secret in Krabi. Read it and go.

Art attack

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Some big names in the art world come to Krabi and we tag along.

KOH LANTA

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Get the most out of Koh Lanta. Highlights, maps, reviews and articles: Koh Lanta Highlights: Lanta Features Activities: What to do on the paradisiacal isle. Yes, that is a word Restaurant Reviews: Wine. Lot of wine. Great wine. Pimalai. Eating Guide: A guide to the best eats on the island Resort Review: The Crown Lanta Resort & Spa under our scrutiny

KOH JUM

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Where? Exactly. That’s why we’re here.

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Getting There: Well, do you know?

App roundup

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The best life-wasters around a the moment

REAL ESTATE

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Purchasing and making real estate investments made simple with Krabi Magazine. Architect Tips: Local architects Ton Company produce stunning homes Pesky Pests: Termites are a serious problem for home owners. Find

76

out why

Buddha 82 Short bio on the legend that is. Just because.

RUSSIAN SECTION

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4 pages of information in the Russian Language

JUST FOR FUN Puzzles and stuff to keep you amused for a while.

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@AoNang Villas is truly a remarkable project and it is clear that there is a dedication and passion for design behind the project one that shines though for all people who are lucky enough to stay in one of the villas.

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s you approach @AoNang Villas the first thing that strikes you is the 3 meter high wall that surrounds the villas. Then you notice the outer detail of beautifully sculpted elephants decorating the outer wall. As you enter the gate, a guard salutes you with a smile. There is a bustle of activity on the site as currently two new villas are being built. The site is green and lush with flowers and plants, but what immediately catches your eye are the villas themselves. In front of you you have the majestic model villa built in a modern Thai style and with a private 10m pool surrounded by the living room and bedrooms and a large pool deck. Upon closer inspection, you find three bedrooms in the villa all en suite. All the rooms are overlooking the pool area and it is easy to see that attention to detail and design have been of very high importance in the construction of the villas. @AoNang Villas is a new project in AoNang, Krabi offering luxurious and private pool villas for sale. It is located only 5km from AoNang Beach and the crystal clear waters of the Andaman Sea. The villas are located in a quiet area of AoNang and nestled among rubber trees and beautiful natural surroundings. It is an ideal place for people who love the peace and tranquility of nature while still having all the amenities of AoNang, which include Thai and western restaurants, shopping and leisure activities like scuba diving, snorkeling, golf, rock climbing and simply lazing on the beach. @AoNang Villas are dedicated to making sure that you have the best time when staying your luxury villa. You will have access to a taxi service from and to Ao Nang Beach, 24 hour security, an exclusive on-site restaurant, fitness center, playground for the kids and garden areas. @AoNang Villas can also manage your villa when you are not there, making sure the pool is maintained, garden stays beautiful and villa is regularly cleaned. The team behind the villas can also manage Images from http://www.daro-cane.co.uk

renting out your villa when you are not there, making the villa a great investment opportunity. Krabi is the ideal location for people who want to live and enjoy a green destination and less overdeveloped area than the likes of Phuket and Pattaya. You will find an atmosphere of tranquility and harmony in Krabi that is hard to come by in other, more crowded places. The officials in Krabi have announced a dedication to keeping Krabi green, while making sure that you have all the basic necessities like an international hospital, good infrastructure and shopping malls. As we enjoy the day in @AoNang Villas, we meet one of the first buyers - a Dane living in Bangkok. He tells us that what attracted him to the project - besides the quality of construction and beauty of the villas was the fact that the project is dedicated to being Krabi’s most environmentally friendly villa complex. As well as this, the potential of renting out the villa while not using it, helped greatly by us, was something that attracted him to buy. Also Krabi itself with is many opportunities for activities such as trekking, swimming, golfing and many more was a much more attractive option than the more overcrowded and hectic places in other towns. You can read more about @AoNang Villas and contact them on their website. www.at-aonangvillas.com.


Window the beaches

Ao Nang, at 20km from Krabi Town, is the most developed of Krabi’s beaches, a long stretch of white sandy beach with limestone mountains as a backdrop. It has a wide range of accommodation and services and the main shopping street features restaurants, bars, pubs, souvenir shops, dive centers and tour agencies, massage centers and spas. This is the hub from which to plan your trip at sea and to the nearby islands on a typical longtail boat. Noppharat Thara beach, just around the corner from Ao Nang, is 3km long yet still undeveloped, with only a few resorts and bars. Attractive because of its natural setting, this is where local youngsters and families gather at sunset and at weekends. Savour some local Muslim snacks at the beach stalls, or fill yourself with seafood in the local restaurants at the very end of the beach, near the Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters. At low tide, walk out together with millions of small crabs on the sandy pathways to the small islands near the beach. Railay beaches are split and separated from Krabi and Ao Nang by monumental limestone mountains. Railay has two sides, east and west, and its settings are simply marvelous: crystal clear waters, pure sandy beaches, lush mountains, rocky islands emerging from the sea. Railay can only be reached by boat, a 15 minutes ride from Ao Nang or 30 minutes from Krabi Town. Enjoy a cocktail in one of the beach bars, visit the Phranang Cave, challenge yourself on a rock climbing course, hike the limestone massif to a lagoon and a viewpoint, or simply chill out. Neighbouring Tonsai lies at the base of a cliff that divides it form Railay West. Tonsai has a shallow beach with slow gradients out to sea which is profoundly affected by the tide. Klong Muang beach is a further 20km away from Ao Nang; it is the up-market side of Krabi, the place to be if you are after a peaceful holiday. Catering to families and couples, it is here that you really get the so deserved repose, surrounded by pristine nature.

Tubkaek beach is another real place to hide away; long, clean and peaceful, the area has breathtaking views over Koh Hong islands archipelago, and charming sunsets. From there you can venture inside the National Park and try a walking trail to a viewpoint and a waterfall. Koh Lanta beaches have a wide selection of resorts for all tastes and pockets. Lanta Yai island has long stretches of gleaming white sandy beaches and shallow emerald waters. Lined with tropical vegetation, a private spot is never more than a short walk away on a southern beach at Lanta Yai.

NATURAL HOTSPOTS Limestone mountains or karsts characterize most of the inland Krabi area, the most spectacular being the massifs of Sai Tai. Susaan Hoi is a 40 million year-old seashell cemetery; once a large swamp where freshwater crustaceans proliferated, today home to 40 centimeter thick, shell encrusted limestone slabs, a geological uniqueness not far from Ao Nang. One must find a broken edge to see the shells clearly, since all of those on the upper surface have been walked on and worn down by the elements and are hard to identify. Khao Phanom Bencha National Park, at 20km from Krabi Town, comprises waterfalls, streams, lush forests and caves. It is home to all kind of flora and wildlife and to the highest mountain in the region from which it takes the name. One of the features of the park is Huay Toh Waterfall where water runs down onto several huge pools.


on krabi Tarnbok Khoranee National Park, in the north of the region, consists of limestone mountains, verdant tropical forest, caves and beautiful islands. It is well known for its different species of trees growing around a large natural crystal clear pool, and for the hundreds of birds’ species.

Phi Hua Toh Cave, in the nearby Bor Thor area, surrounded by mangrove swamps and reachable by boat or kayak, is where to see pre-historic rock paintings depicting animals and humans. Sa Morakot, the Emerald Pool, is a natural wonder: a pond of turquoise water with an average temperature of 30-40C, fed by a hot spring in the middle of the jungle. Hot Springs of Klong Thom, natural Jacuzzis in which to lift away tensions and relieve body and mind with the mineral enriched waters falling into rocky ponds.

THE ISLANDS Hop on or hire a longtail, the local wooden boats with their picturesque prows. Sail away to Koh Poda, surrounded by turquoise waters, or to Koh Kai, shaped as a chicken and therefore called the Chicken Island, from where a walk on a sandy pathway connects it to Koh Tub. Make a longtail boat or speedboat trip to the Koh Hong archipelago, a group of limestone islands with hidden caves and lagoons perfect for kayaking or snorkeling. Join an organized tour to amazing Koh Phi Phi islands, full of marvelous bays, limestone cliffs, waters rich in marine life, caves where swallow nests are harvested, and much more. Visit Koh Jum and Koh Siboya, small, unspoiled tropical hideaway that have a unique atmosphere. These islands give visitors the time to relax and re-charge their batteries. Or venture out on Koh Lanta, the developing island at the southern end of the province home to sea gypsies communities, where you will meet nature and tradition. A National Park area that comprises many different islands surrounded by coral reefs, such as Koh Ngai and remote Koh Rok.

THE CULTURE

Ban Natin, on the way from Ao Nang to Klong Muang, is the place to experience the peaceful lifestyle of the local Muslim community. Home accommodation is available, or you can simply make a stopover and see the production of handmade products such as batik paintings, pineapple-fiber paper and coconut shell carving. Wat Klong Thom Museum features various kinds of beads, stone tools, and stone and earthen ornaments in animal shapes of approximately 5,000 years old, uncovered during archeological excavations. Fire dancing, part of the beach culture, is a popular evening activity on the beaches of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi, performed by acrobatic boys who swing burning torches around their bodies, creating sparkling artistic pictures. Ban Sang-Ka-U is a sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional v Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-developing island.

THE TOWN Small, charming, silent at times, nice for a day’s walking tour. Krabi Town is full of old buildings, bars and restaurants, local exotic marketplaces and food stalls at the old Chao Fa pier where to sample the local food. The Krabi motto is: “lively town, lovely people”; Krabi’s simple people are definitely proud of their town and of their warm and generous character. Hop on a longtail boat at Chao Fa pier and visit Khao Kanab Nam, the unique pair of hills facing each other on the opposite banks of the Krabi River, symbols of the town; or embark on a journey to Koh Klang, an island next to town on the mouth of the river, where you will experience lives lived by the local fishing communities; or charter a boatman for a visit to the mangrove backwaters.


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efore setting off to the ‘land of smiles’, anyone in their right mind would begin chomping at the bit as they imagine eating authentic Thai food. Our point of destination is Krabi, Thailand; namely a village set along the sea, called Ao Nang. Not only were we excited about being in one of the most beautiful places on earth. But we were equally excited to experience eating ‘real’ Thai food. Served at its best, be it fine dining or a small food cart on the side of the road. Coming to Thailand provides for the dining experience of a lifetime. You’ll reel over the options that will lie before you and absolutely over-indulge on yellow, green and red curries, fresh papaya salad, phad thai noodles, seafood brought in fresh daily from the Andaman Sea and desserts that are out of this world. Fresh mango with sweet sticky rice, fried bananas with coconut ice cream and rotis. When coming to Ao Nang, you will create a built in tracking system which will lead you to the various roti vendors along the streets of this lovely little sea village. Don’t worry, I’m sure you will spare yourself plenty of time to dabble into eating at least a few of the more than 20 different varieties offered. I giggled as I watched the lines increase with repeat patrons not being satisfied by just one roti! Traveling with a friend, she confessed that she felt the familiar songs of home beckoning her towards western dining. We agreed to

venture to one of the ‘hot spots’ of Ao Nang. Yes, ‘hot spot’; why? Adjacent to The L Resort on the beachfront; Wanna’s Place is known for its “Hot Stone” specialties. My friend was like a schoolgirl reading a note passed to her from a childhood admirer from under the school desks. As she read through the menu, her voice would raise a key as she sang out the 3 fine choices of meat to choose from. “Rib eye, lamb fillet’; Oh my goodness, I’m having the tenderloin”. We later discovered that the tenderloin is the house favorite. As the meal came out on a sizzling hot platter, my friend’s face lit up as if it were her birthday and the entire restaurant was going to join in on singing “Happy Birthday to you”. I’m not veering far from the truth when I say that when the platter was brought from the kitchen it was quite a sight and quite the sound. Heads turned as this feast was brought with celebration by a very hospitable Thai waitress. The tenderloin sat upon a beautiful hot stone; surrounded by traditional potato croquettes and 3 dipping sauces. My friend ate adventurously, humming along as she enjoyed her meal. I choose to stay within the culture and ordered a delicious Thai favorite. Being a vegetarian I really thought I would be insulting the fame of the hot stone. Not so; I was presented the most exquisite dish of vegetarian Massaman curry and a lovely petite plate of jasmine rice. We were able to have a brief chat with the owner, Stephan. My friend thanked him repeatedly as

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this gentle-spirited man told us that Wanna’s Place has the only Hot Stone in Ao Nang. The stones are imported all the way from Finland and the prime choice meats are fresh from Australia. He smiled as he shared with us that the stones are heated to a precise temperature, allowing the choice meat to sizzle in the robust flavor. As his guests enjoy their culinary experience; every bite is cooked exactly as determined and piping hot right up to the last delicious mouthful. Stephan also offers imported wines from all over the world; served by the glass in corked bottles and poured directly at table-side. My friend just nodded her head in agreement as she wrestled with the idea that her Hot Stone dining experience was near its end. Her last thought was which dipping sauce was going to embrace the last soft morsel that she would consume. Not only did we feel like superstars as we dined to our hearts content, but we felt like we discovered a terrific place to eat as we enjoyed our Hot Stone dining. A timeless and practical way of cooking is now available in a trendy, contemporary environment in lovely Ao Nang.

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top 10 Krabi Activities Scuba Diving Some of the world’s finest diving can be found here, with no less than 7 “local” islands right off the Ao Nang coast to explore. Take a day trip to the legendary Phi Phi islands, or discover the stunning Hoh Haa archipelago, or even dive the wreck of the King Cruiser. The Similan islands are reachable by speedboat or liveaboard and demand to be dived if you are here with the intention of getting under the surface. The diversity of the marine life is Krabi’s uniqueness, and it’s hard to beat. Over 200 species of fish have been recorded around Krabi and Ao Nang alone, as well as 80+ types of coral. With water temperatures kissing 30 degrees Celsius, you can dive in T-shirt and shorts if you want to, and many do! Krabi is perfect for first-timers too, and with such a wide selection of dive operators on offer, this could be the time to take the plunge, so to speak.

Krabi Province is a haven for sun worshippers and pleasure seekers and is also one of the world’s best destinations for activities such as rockclimbing, scuba diving and kayaking. Krabi Magazine gives you our top 10 list of activities to try here in Krabi: Kayaking This is a hugely popular activity in Krabi. The mangroves, caves and of course the beaches, provide plenty of great opportunities for kayaking. The Ao Nang/Railay area is popular as it’s close and convenient but if you’re feeling a little more adventurous, book yourself on a tour to Ao Thalane or Bor Thor in Tarn Boke Koranee National Park. The caves, grottoes and lagoons make for a great day of fun and adventure.

Wat Tham Suea A hike to Wat Tham Seua, otherwise known as Tiger Cave Temple is exhausting, exhilarating and ultimately hugely rewarding. Once you’ve climbed the 1,257 steps that lead to the hilltop temple, you’ll be met by stunning views over the surrounding Thai countryside having been transformed into swathes of lush greenery by the monsoon rain. Combine the temple with trips to other destinations like Sa Morakot or visit as a separate Krabi Town day trip and combine with trips to the market.

SUNSET STROLL ALONG AO NANG BEACH Sunsets over Ao Nang and Nopharrat Thara are probably some of the best you are ever likely to see. The monsoon rain brings storm clouds that hang ominously in the sky, creating spectacular sunsets that bathe the bay in a sumptuous light. Walk along the esplanade to get some great views of the longtail boats bobbing on the water, or just sit on a bench and watch as the sky transforms.

Rock climbing and Railay Beach Combine a trip to Railay Beach with some rock climbing and serious beach time and then sample some of the local nightlife. Krabi is among the World’s best destinations for climbing. The Railay peninsula is home to the local climbing scene and is considered a mecca for the sport. There are hundreds of bolted routes in the Railay area as well as rock-climbing schools that can provide guides and equipment. Railay, once the sole preserve of backpackers, has become a favourite holiday destination, combining 2 world class beaches, excellent dining and some funky after hours haunts to down a few bottles of local brew.


Markets Experiencing the hustle and bustle of a local market is great fun. Krabi and Ao Nang are blessed with some great markets, with Krabi town boasting the largest covered market in southern Thailand. There’s a market operating on any given day of the week selling everything from fruit and vegetables, household items, clothes and shoes, snacks, BBQ meat, Muslim curries and more. Try the Thursday market or Saturday markets in Klong Haeng.

Sa Morakot A trip to Sa Morakot or the ‘Crystal Pool’ can be combined with trips to other beauty spots such as the hot springs. The so called ‘Emerald Pool’ is fed by a natural spring and gets its name from the glorious colour of its water. Perfect for swimming, it makes a great day out and a nice break from the beach. The rainy season is a great time to go as there is more water and less people. The best way to visit is on a tour, making it easy to combine it with a trip to nature’s own hot tub – the namtok ron (hot springs) a series of splash pools fed by a natural thermal spring.

Koh Hong Archipelago No trip to Krabi or Ao Nang is complete without a trip to Koh Hong, the stunning group of islands lying off the Krabi coast. The beaches of Kong Hong never cease to amaze visitors with their crystal clear water and stunning white sand. The beaches in Ao Nang can become rough and windy in the wet

season, but the beaches on the islands lying in the Andaman Sea remain calm and good for swimming. Koh Hong has two glorious beaches, a lagoon and national park land – a real island paradise.

Local Nightlife If drinking prodigious amounts of local brew is on your agenda then seek out one of Krabi Town or Ao Nang’s more lively night spots. In Ao Nang, Luna Bar is a popular joint for movers who want to bust some shapes on the dancefloor. Vodka or whiskey buckets are usually the order of the day. If you want to party ‘Thai style’, then head to Centerpoint in Ao Nang or Kansas Saloon in Krabi Town. With lots of whiskey on ice flowing, these places are an experience. Live music, dj sets and semi-clad dancing girls are what you can expect. For a less salubrious night out, try Soi Salai opposite McDonald’s in Ao Nang. This clusters of neon-lit ‘beer-bars’ are often friendly and good fun and many have cable TV and free pool on offer. The next place for entertainment are the bamboo huts opposite Siam Commercial Bank for a relaxed chillout evening.


In Fine Tune... We had the immense pleasure and the great honor to welcome John Illsley, English musician, who rose to fame as the bass guitarist and as one of the founding members of the critically acclaimed rock band, Dire Straits. “Rat” one of the chefs at our stunning hillside Seven Seas restaurant was delighted to lend her acoustic guitar to Khun John during his stay, so that he could fine tune some of his songs in preparation for his next album. Khun John now lives in Hampshire, with his family. He owns a local pub, the ‘East End Arms’, which has been listed by critics as one of the “Fifty Best Pubs around Britain”. GM Franck de Lestapis, John Illsley & Seven Seas Chef de Partie “Rat”

From Physics to Photography… 1996 Nobel Laureate for Physics, Professor Douglas Dean Osheroff and his wife, chose Koh Lanta and of course Pimalai, to spend some well deserved rest and relaxation time. Besides his work in Physics, Professor Osheroff is a keen photographer and was delighted to tour some of the nearby islands including the stunning Koh Haa archipelago, a spectacular cluster of 5 limestone islands; also recognized as a world class scuba diving site.

GM Franck de Lestapis welcomes Professor Osheroff and his wife

Weekly Friday Wine Connection Hour Yes!.. It is also the end of the week on Koh Lanta! – ….so meet from 5.30m to 6.30pm on the terrace of the villa lobby, on the hillside, and discover a couple of new wines, mingle with other guests from around the world, make new friends and transition into the rest of your Koh Lanta evening. Thanks to the support of Canpac Beverages from Bangkok, we pour enjoyable wines by the glass for you to try. Red or white? Or Both? The choice is yours and the night is young. Canapés are served while you are sipping your wine and you may also most likely experience at the same time a memorable sunset from the most stunning spot on the island of Lanta. Drop by!


IFESTYLE

RESORT

HAILAND

Winners of 2013 Most Romantic Hotels in Asia and Worldwide Announced TripAdvisor®, the world’s largest travel site*, today announced the Asia and worldwide winners of its 2013 Travellers’ Choice Awards for the Most Romantic Hotels. Unlike any other hotel honours, TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards are based on millions of valuable reviews and opinions from travellers around the world. “If you need inspiration for a romantic getaway, close to home or somewhere more exotic, look no further than the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice awards,” commented Barbara Messing, chief marketing officer for TripAdvisor. “The awards are based on feedback from couples who have stayed at these hotels and given them the highest romantic stamp of approval.” In Thailand, Layana Resort and Spa in Ko Lanta came in third in Asia and ninth in the world while The Shore at Katathani on Kata Beach was ranked eighth in Asia. “We are delighted to be one of the winners for the Travellers’ Choice award for Most Romantic Hotels in Asia and the world, voted for by travellers on the world’s largest travel site,” said Stefan Heintze, General Manager of Layana Resort & Spa. “This acknowledgement from our guests is a great encouragement for all our staff at Layana Resort & Spa to continuously provide outstanding personalised service, welcoming our guests back year after year.”

The Travellers’ Choice Awards for the Most Romantic Hotels are based on the millions of hotel reviews and opinions from travellers on TripAdvisor, gathered over a 12-month period since the 2012 awards, with emphasis on insights from those who have marked, on the review form, that they stayed at the hotel as a ‘Couple’.

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www.thelresort.com 31 Moo 2, Ao Nang Beach, Krabi


Ex p l o r e r B a r

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The pulse Sea ghosts haunt krabi

Power Outages on the Cards for April

Krabi Art Gallery are hosting an exhibition called “Sea Ghosts” that will show art that has been inspired by the Andaman Sea and the myths it has borne over countless generations.

The Energy Ministry is preparing emergency measures for April to deal with an imminent shortage of power following a disruption of the gas supply.

Through art, the exhibition will tell the life and story of the Andaman people and help revive the tales of the sea ghosts that have been passed through the ages. An ancient and fascinating area of history, the Krabi Art Gallery will be showing the results of this inspiration from Feb 21 - March 21. Open 10am - 5pm Call 075630061 for more details

Lanta Coastline Disappearing at 5 Meters Per year The Marine and Coastal Resources Department is formulating plans to tackle coastal erosion in six Andaman Sea provinces. The most severe erosion was found in Tambon Saladan on Krabi’s Koh Lanta, where five metres of coastline a year is disappearing, specialist Vudhichai Janekarn said yesterday. Other hard-hit areas are Phang Nga’s Laem Pakarang-Ban Lha-on in Takua Pa district and Trang’s Pak Meng Beach in Sikao district. Presenting the 2011-September 2012 survey data in a meeting at Krabi City Hall, Vudhichai identified 57 coastal-erosion hotspots along the 1,093-kilometre Andaman coast - 45 locations on the mainland and 12 on islands in Krabi, Trang, Phang Nga, Phuket, Ranong and Satun. He proposed the building of coastal-protection barriers to lessen the severity of the erosion. An advisory committee was looking into ways of constructing durable barriers out of material that could be found locally, had low maintenance costs and would be accepted by residents.

Energy Minister Pongsak Ruktapongpisal will hold discussions with relevant agencies next week to avert the crisis. The risk is significant, according to him, because Thailand will lose access to a huge amount of natural gas - a key energy source for the country’s power plants - during that month. April has usually seen peak power consumption in the country. As the Mercury soars, people usually turn on more of their airconditioners in that month every year. While Thailand has made plans for adequate electricity supply, the country is facing a risk this year because its access to natural gas will be seriously affected from April 4. “We will have to ask people and government agencies to save electricity,” Pongsak said yesterday in the Yingluck-led “Government Meets People” programme. The programme was broadcast via both the Channel 11 television station and the FM92.5 radio station between 8am and 9am. Pongsak said Myanmar would be shutting down its natural gas fields temporarily to fix drilling rigs. The repair is due to start on April 4. Pongsak said that the closure would deny Thailand daily access to 1,100 million cubic feet of natural gas. This will be a serious blow as Thailand has already been losing daily access to 270 million cubic feet of natural gas through the Thai-Malaysian gas pipeline whose anchor was accidentally hit and damaged late last year. “Without natural gas supply from these two sources, the country’s power-generation capacity will drop by 4,100 megawatts of electricity per day,” Pongsak pointed out. He said his ministry now planned to revive dormant power plants that relied on other sources of energy to cope with the loss of natural-gas supply. However, he said there was a risk that the move would not ensure adequate supply of electricity. “Power consumption in Thailand soars high when April arrives,” Pongsak pointed out. Last year, power consumption peaked on April 25 at a record 25,682 megawatts, according to the Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand, as the temperature soared to 38.4 degrees Celsius. Pongsak said his ministry would try to talk with Myanmar to see whether it could reschedule the planned repair of natural-gas drilling rigs during the Thai long holiday period. In April, there are several official holidays for Chakri Day (April 6) and Songkran Festival (April 13-15). Pongsak said the imminent power shortage is a reminder for all that Thailand needed to plan well its energy sector. He said that while it was good that non-governmental organisations speak up for the environment, activists should understand and not oppose a project if it was well planned and measures to minimise environmental impacts were in place.

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Local & National news that matters to you

One-stop centres to issue Myanmar migrants travel documents

Thailand opened 11 one-stop service centres nationwide on Friday to speed up the registration of an estimated 1 million undocumented Myanmar migrant workers in the country. The offices, manned by both Thai and Myanmar immigration officers, are to verify the nationalities of undocumented migrant workers in the country and eventually issue them with temporary travel documents, work permits and visas. Thailand initially set a December 14 deadline for all MyanmarCambodian and Lao migrants to register and obtain properdocumentation for working legally.

DOmestic flights in Thailand get a discount

Thai Airways International recently launched a promotion on selected domestic routes for travel until 31 March. The domestic promotion, Inspiring Thailand sells roundtrip fares inclusive of airport tax from Bangkok to Chiang Mai at Bt2,335, Chiang Rai Bt2,700, Khon Kaen Bt2,045, Phuket Bt2,755, Krabi Bt2,610, and Hat Yai Bt2,685. The fares can be purchased through THAI Ticketing Office, authorised THAI sales agents and online at www.thaiairways.com and www.thaiairways.co.th.

Although 1.3 million Myanmar nationals met the registration deadline, more than 1 million failed to do so, said Tin Win, Myanmar’s ambassador to Thailand. The Thai cabinet agreed to extend the deadline to March 16, and to help the process by setting up one-stop registration centres in 11 provinces nationwide. Since the centres can process only about 1,000 migrants daily, Myanmar authorities have asked Thailand to extend the registration deadline to a more realistic date, Myanmar Deputy Labour Minister Myint Thein said after visiting Thailand last week.

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The pulse Tourists to Thailand need the truth on Thai Drivers It is time for all foreign tourists to be informed frankly about how to travel safely in Thailand, an expert on accident analysis urged yesterday. “They should know that travelling in Thailand is often different from their countries,” Assistant Prof Thaweesak Taekratok from the Crash Scene Investigation Project at Naresuan University said. “A handbook should be distributed to guide each of them. We have to warn them of the improper or risky driving behaviour of Thai motorists, risky areas on roads and how rescue workers and medical officials assist with injuries. “Doing this could not be considered damaging to the country’s image. You have to compare the effect from warning visitors about the facts before accidents occur, and when relatives of dead tourists begin digging up [details about] Thailand’s traffic problems and bringing them before the foreign media. Which one would cause the worst impact?” Thaweesak said. He said his team found many foreigners injured in traffic accidents thought all Thai motorists must stop at a red light, but when they did that they had a collision. English communication problems by medical officials and rescue workers also led to misunderstanding among tourists. “So, they need to be informed in regard to accidents,” he said. Meanwhile, relatives have not yet claimed the bodies of a British couple cycling around the world killed in a Thai crash last week.

Mark Kent, UK ambassador to Thailand said: “We are providing consular assistance on this tragic case. The FCO travel advice for Thailand has a section on road travel. This advice highlights the issues around road safety in Thailand. You can find it on our website,” he said. “Some foreign news agencies have reported in a way that might make people think roads in Thailand are not safe. The government is concerned that it might hurt the country’s image. We are preparing to find measures to prevent accidents and promote road safety including providing English language traffic signs,” he said. Police charged Worapong Sangkawat, 25, the pickup driver who crashed into the couple, with reckless driving causing death. Piyamarn Techapaibul, president of the Tourism Council, said the accident had had no impact on tourism here. In the long term, she said it would make little impression as readers understood it was an accident. But she accepted accidents with bicycles and motorcycles were national concerns. The country saw many road deaths, not only among Thais but also foreign tourists. The government should look for ways to boost road safety. It should keep the roads safe for every life, especially as a rising number of foreign tourists are coming here. Thaweesak also urged Thai people to improve their driving.


Viewpoint The venting arena where we get to mouth off about things that get up our collective noses. This month - drivers. Brace yourselves, people…. I haven’t slept in 2 nights. We came home yesterday evening to find the electricity box had been removed from the house, we have no running water, the dog had vomited everywhere, the baby has been screaming, I had to break into an empty house for us to sleep in and I have no clean clothes. So as I sit here in my swimming trunks and approaching caffeine-induced delerium, I feel as if this is the right time to pen the Viewpoint page of the month.

I

f you are reading this as a resident of Krabi, you will most likely have learned the “interesting way” about the subtle nuances of navigating the roads and traffic in Thailand. If you are a visitor to these parts - there are a few things I’d like to highlight that might just make your precious time in Krabi a little more pleasant and death-free. It should be said that I’m not singling out any group in particular here visitors, locals and Thais can be as bad as each other. The combination can be catastrophic. Visitors - Something seems to happen to folks coming over on holiday. All common sense gets removed and replaced - in a lot of cases - with Chang. Darwinism is fine by me, I have to say. If you want to drink 6 bottles of tramp juice, take off most of your clothes, cast aside your footwear, leave off your helmet and hop onto a moped of questionable quality before tearing around town - be my guest. I say this now after I traded in my own Honda Dream for a for a 3 litre diesel pickup. If you meet me on your quest, you’re coming off worse. Harsh? I think not. I have seen my fair share of folks doing just this - sometimes with the added bonus of a pair of headphones. Perhaps the additional sensory deprivation bumps up the the “coolness” factor. Or maybe even 2 more similarly clad and likeminded pals squeezed onto the back, laughing like drains at their own crazy antics as they film themselves with one hand on their iWhatevers. The bottom line is, if they want to do this and end up wrapping themselves around a tree - so be it. They are supposedly responsible adults with functioning brains and common sense, so they are responsible for their own actions. What gets me is when their actions affect others. If, instead of decorating a tree, they meet me with my family - well now, that’s a different matter. This is why the moped/pickup upgrade was a necessary move. Ain’t no way, no how I’m transporting my wife and baby girl around the streets of Ao Nang in anything with less than a 1/4 ton of momentum. OK, so you’re single, independent, on holiday, carefree and almost naked - what happens to you is yours to bear alone (as long as the aforementioned tree is your only halter and not someone minding their own beeswax at the pancake stall). But even more worrying than those crazy kids living the dream on a rented 125 are the entire families doing the same. More and more I see Mum, Dad, little Johnny and even littler Suzie all wobbling around the town on a single moped. Without helmets. So let me get this straight. Back in their home countries as they go about

their day, they strap little Johhny safely into the back seat of the Volvo and Suzi nestles confortably in her EEC-regulation car seat with 5-point harness and neck support. Mummy and Daddy strap on the seatbelts too as - well, that’s the law. Airbags on all sides are primed and ready to cushion any collision and an insurance company is available to get the repairs sorted. They drive around on well-maintained roads with other similar vehicles and sober drivers as they go about their business. They come to Thailand on holiday and for some unfathomable reason decide that a 10 year-old moped with questionable brakes will be enough to transport the whole family around a foreign country where the other road users are underage, underexperienced, underqualified and undersober. Mum and Dad - wise up and stop it now. You may be the best driver in your city, but that won’t mean much when you meet young Sven and his 3 pals wobbling home from that all-nighter on the beach. Or any of the locals that are perfectly content to read their text messages as they hurtle around the post office corner. Trust me on that. Thai Drivers - Many don’t use mirrors, indicators, braking distances or common sense. When answering their cell phone, they feel it’s appropriate to slow down to 18km/hr and weave across the road until the conversation is complete. Minivan drivers are to be avoided like the plague. Be prepared for them to change lanes with no warning while downing their 47th M-150 of the day, picking their nose and talking on their mobile phone at the same time. With Karaoke on full blast. In general, they ride mopeds as if they were walking and drive trucks like they’re riding mopeds. Seriously??

2 last points that - if I don’t get out here I swear I will run screaming into the street and I’m not wearing my “public” swimming trunks, so I’d rather not. First - mirrors. There are generally 2 of them on each bike. They negate the need for you to turn your head and look behind you when you hear an approacing 3 liter diesel pickup. When you do this, you wobble about all over the road, which makes you nervous and you slow down. This makes me swear, brake and slow down also. This, in turn, makes the minibus driver behind me speed up and overtake the both of us, whilst picking the aforementioned nose. Indicators. They tell other people of what you are about to do. Use them. Left, right. That’s it. Lesson over. You decide to stop in the middle of the road for no apparent reason? Darwin - over to you. It’s a crying shame the number of injuries and deaths there are in Thailand over the course of the year - especially as most of them can be avoided by using simple common sense. Less booze, more helmets, one passenger maximum and no kids. Remember that even though you might be the sober, sensible one - the greatest danger are the others who are far from it and on the same roads as you.

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243 Moo 2, Ao Nang Beach, A. Muang, Krabi 81000 Tel: (66) 075-637152/3, 075-637730 Fax: 075-637153 60/57 Moo 3, T. Rassada, A. Muang, Phuket 83000 Tel: (66) 076-353211-2 Fax: 76-353212

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Getting Around There are busses, taxis, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, minivans, coaches, scooters, sawng-thaws, longtails, speedboats and more all awaiting you with a smile. What can be tricky sometimes is knowing how much a trip costs, where to buy your tickets and how long a journey should take - things that are starting to become more obvious now than they were before.

From Krabi Airport

Air-Con Bus

Nice, clean, air-con cars are available to take you anywhere you want to go and can carry up to 4 people. Or you can buy a seat in a minivan for less, but as it can take up to 10 people you may have to wait until they fill it.

There is now a regular shuttle bus that runs between the airport and popular destinations like those mentioned above. It also stops at piers where ferries leave for places like Railay and Tonsai. This can be a great option if you are on a budget, but can take a while to get to where you want to go.

Destination

Car

Minivan

Destination

Car

Krabi Town

350

600

Krabi Bus Station

80

Ao Nang

600

1050

Krabi Town

90

Klong Muang

700

1100

Lanta Pier

90

Tub Kaek

800

1200

Ao Nang

150

Railay Pier

150

Tonsai Pier

150


Thai

Customs Thailand is one of those countries that have customs very different to what we might be used to in our home countries - and the Thais are extremely proud of that. As we are a visitor in their country, it’s only right and proper that we take a little time to understand some local customs - does and don’ts - that can make a huge difference in your encounters with the locals. They will really appreciate you making the effort and it can go a long way in making your stay here more fulfilling.

H

ere are a few of the more important things to remember - they are simple, cost nothing and are all based in common sense.

Dress

It’s one of the great ironies of life that the one place in Thailand that has the best beaches, ocean and blazing hot sun, is also one of the most conservative when it comes to dressing. The predominantly Muslim population here in the South can take real offense to any tourist wandering into their shop with just a bikini on, or tiny shorts for the guys. I know, you’re on holiday and you deserve that tan - I understand. But here, bikinis are for the beach and only the beach. Please, please, please try to appreciate the cultural differences here and cover up a little when heading to and from the beach. Guys, just pull on a pair of board shorts and T-shirt. No-one wants to see another pair of fluorescent Speedos making their way around the town. Ladies - simple. Sarongs. Dead cheap, available everywhere, take up no space, dry in a heartbeat and can be used a hundred different ways. Wrap one around your waist or shoulders when heading off the beach and you’re sorted.

Royalty

The Thai Royal Family is revered and there can be no worse “faux pas” than joke about the King. Some have actually been thrown in jail for making “uncivil remarks” about their beloved leader. It’s serious business and you should take note. You’ll see his image absolutely everywhere, which should give you a good idea of the respect and love he has from the Thai population.

Just use common sense and you’ll be fine. If in doubt about what you should do in any given situation - just do what the Thais around you are doing and you can’t go wrong.

Religion

Respect is the name of the game when visiting a temple or encountering a wandering monk. Again, no speedos. As a rule of thumb, make sure that your shoulders and knees are covered (especially the ladies) and you’ll be fine. Remember the mantra - “bring a sarong and you can’t go wrong”.

Monks

Buddhist monks are forbidden to make direct physical contact with women. This means that if a woman has to give anything to a monk, she must first hand it to a man who then can pass it on. Sometimes the monk will lay out a piece of his robe on the ground, where the lady can then place the object and he can pick it up.

Buddha

Sacred and revered. Even if it’s a ruined, half destroyed statue of the deity - treat it with the utmost respect and you’ll shine in the eyes of the Thais. Common sense again - don’t clamber up onto one and make bunny ears behind it for a photo. If you want to take a picture of a statue, please do so respectfully and, if possible, ask a passing monk if it’s ok to do so. It may seem a bit odd to us, but it’s a real big deal to Thai people - so who are we to argue?

Head & Feet

In Buddhism, the feet are seen as the lowest part of the body and the head the highest - both literally as well as figuratively. This means that you should never point your feet at a Thai, a monk or a statue of Buddha. Instead, sit with your feet under your knees like the statue of Buddha here or even cross-legged if you have glass joints like mine. Also, try never to step over someone who is lying in your path (sleeping, presumably) as the act of passing the soles of your feet across them can be just as bad or worse than the feet-pointing. The head is seen as the most “holy” part of the body and as such, should not be touched. This means no playful ruffling of that cheeky boy’s hair or patting of kids heads. I know, to us it’s a gesture of affection. To Thais, it’s very offensive.

Shoes

Easy, this one take your shoes or flip flops off at the entrance to any indoor space. If in any doubt, look for other flip flops at the doorway and leave yours there with them. Resorts are the exception to this, as are most restaurants


- but absolutely take them off if entering a Wat (temple) or a Thai’s home.

Saying “Hi” - Thai Style

The “Wai” is the traditional Greeting here in Thailand - similar to the handshake in the west. It’s usually performed by a “lower class” of person when greeting a superior, who can then return the gesture. You’ve all seen it as soon as you arrived at your resorts - I have no doubt. The “Wai-er” places the palms of their hands together like their about to pray and then bends forwards at the waist. It’s good practice to return the gesture too and the Thais really appreciate it. Just put your hands together with the tips of your fingers touching your chin and bend forward a little while saying “Sawadee krap” if you’re of the manly persuasion or “Sawadee kaa” if a lady. You may notice that sometimes you are addressed as “Mr. Bob” or “Miss. Jane” instead of your family name. This is just the way Thai people address their peers, usually with the first name.

Kissing

Public displays of affection are a big no-no all over Thailand, and should be avoided. No snogging in the restaurant please - or you will be faced with a sea of red-faced Thai’s all avoiding you.

Shopping

Thailand is an excellent place to pick up some bargains, and haggling is expected amongst customers and vendors. Remember to take the “softly-softly” approach and don’t be aggressive. In some parts of the world, haggling can take the form of a shouting match with arms flailing, spit flying and lots of walking way and pulling back. Not so here. That kind of behavior will get you nowhere. Smile and ask what their best price is and take it from there. Keep your voice calm and quiet and never, ever lose your temper.

So there you have it. Try these simple tips and feel pleased with yourself for making the effort. It’s not as difficult as you might think, and it really doesn’t matter if you get it wrong!

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There are two types of people in this world: those willing to do really crazy stuff for the thrill of it, and those that think that that…is stupid. Fascinated with the former category, and after catching wind that Base jumpers were taking flight off of Ton Sai beach for the h-e-doublehockey-sticks of it, I along with our marketing director Zina caught the first longtail boat out to catch sight of them. by Emily Huang-Ramirez

B

ase jumping is a sport in which a person parachutes from a fixed object. If not obvious, usually that object is high up, so as not to go schplat(!) when they reach bottom. “BASE” is actually an acronym that stands for four categories of fixed objects from which a person can plunge from: buildings, antennas, spans (bridges) and earth (cliffs). Bodies chucking themselves off a limestone karst and into paradise has a certain romance about it. Perhaps it’s because the unity of mankind’s oldest dream and oldest fear - flying and falling, respectively – are colliding in a niche of natural wonder that’s been in existence for just as long as the dreams have. And also, after the jumpers climb the hour and a half ascent of one of two peaks on Ton Sai, it’s much more fun to return to earth via the expressway. Obviously. It wasn’t long after Zina and I landed on shore that evidence of these mysterious jumpers appeared. Almost everyone we asked had seen them jumping on one day or another. Small as Ton Sai is, it wouldn’t be long before we found them, too. Just as sudden as we had arrived, a cautionary “Whoop! Whoop!” pierced the air from above as a figure underneath a parachute swooped down onto the beach. With ninja-like speed I grabbed a camera to capture split seconds of their majestic coming. And just like that, it was over. Two jumpers, free-falling for two seconds followed by a mere 10 seconds of parachuting towards the sand, hopefully not towards people. Afterwards, sitting at the Ting Tong bar (which directly translates to “crazy,” as in bat-poop-insane-asylum-not-the-cool-kindof-crazy…fitting), we learned that the siren call was a safety measure. The day prior, a poor, unsuspecting soul met the crotch of a jumper-and unfortunately the attached hardware -with the back of his head while everyone else cleared out of the way. “Note to self,” says guy, “Get better Q-tips.” Unfortunately, Base jumping, and skydiving are not formally organized activities in Krabi province at the moment, although videos of jumpers have been popping up on the Internet in the past four to five years. But that doesn’t mean that general plummeting-out-of-the-sky shenanigans aren’t to be easily had by anyone interested. The duo we met that day, Rob Stanley and Bertrand Cloutier, are highly experienced Base jumping/Skydiving advocates, with a long CV of well-documented jumps and over 60 years of experience between them.

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Base jumping in Tonsai is just a small part of their lifelong quest to jump off of and out of just about everything. Sometimes, it’s even done in costume, or invisible clothes. Base jumping otherwise would just be boring. #sarcasm An extreme sport may appear to be solely that - extreme. But “Dr. Bird,” as Bertrand is affectionately known in these parts, had volumes to speak on the matter, scientifically. Seeking recreational risk is uniquely human; no other species on earth puts their life in danger for fun. There’s surprisingly a substantial amount of scientific studies trying to understand why it is we silly humans do this, and three theories have dominated in the past few decades.


One theory states that risky behavior opens up three channels in the brain that allow specific neurotransmitters (brain chemicals, if you will) to flow simultaneously whereas they otherwise wouldn’t. “It’s a similar mechanism for love at first sight,” Dr. Bird explains. “Body temperature rises, breathing becomes short and rapid, heart race increases, eyes widen, and a Utopian rush of emotions floods the body.” This feeling is instantly addicting. In the same way that love is addicting, an adrenaline junkie becomes addicted to the body’s physical response to danger.

extreme sports enthusiasts. Interestingly enough, coupled with other variables such as personality, some people are driven in the opposite direction of the aforementioned personality types. There’s a strong correlation between low MAO levels and substance abuse, crime and other detrimental behavior. There are certain variables - personality or circumstance, as examples- that coupled with low MAO levels, will drive person in either a productive, harmless direction or the exact opposite in order to satiate their need for thrill. “I should’ve just stuck with Bungee jumping,” says the serial killer.

Another, more recent theory is the dawn of “King” children. Like divorced parents battling to win over a child caught in the middle (Yay! Two Christmases!) and spoiling them rotten, these beings become Well, that explains a lot, Dr. vain attention-seekers. There’s Bird. And here we thought Base jumpers appear randomly no doubt this inflated ego we were just going to see trend is heightened by social but with increasing frequency on some Base jumpers. By the media and the current looktime we reached them, Dr. Tonsai these days at-me sub-culture pervading Bird, Rob and several others many Western societies, and the had been Base jumping daily constant affirmation it returns only makes a thrill-seeker at low tide for almost two weeks. Base jumpers appear more addicted to the attention. They continually seek out randomly but with increasing frequency on Ton Sai these even riskier behavior than before to maintain this feeling of days. At least now when we look up in wonder, we can social royalty. “These people become big idiots,” Dr. Bird attribute their reasoning to social evolution or science. scientifically explains. Over cold beers the guys spoke excitedly about returning The last theory is perhaps one that many people can again in the coming months or year, with Dr. Bird adding, relate to. Research shows that people with a low enzyme “Next time I am here, I’m going to jump with two coconuts level of monoamino oxydase (MAO) tend to have a wider in my crotch, so when people look up they will say ‘Look at perception of what is ‘acceptable’ risk, so they engage in that guy who has big nuts!’ riskier behavior than people deemed ‘normal’ (a relative label, I believe). Usually those identified as free-thinkers You have been warned... and free-spirits have low MAO levels. It’s quite common in artists, entrepreneurs, performers, inventors, and of course,

Touching

BASE


Eating Guide Carnivore - Steak & Grill

Soi Klong Haeng opposite Thai Village Resort, Ao Nang. They say that the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the same goes for steaks. The quality of what this kitchen produces is extremely hard to beat - and the experience of the owner Gidi is evident as you walk into the elegant and pristine restaurant. Gidi worked for 15 years in the restaurant business before starting Carnivore back in 2003 - and he has never looked back. All main courses come with salad and a choice of six different potato dishes that include homemade french fries and mashed potato to die for. As well as the 5-star meat selection, Carnivore also offers some of the finest salads, soups, crispy baguettes, grilled sandwiches and warm starters around - as well as no less than 60 beers from around the world. Yes, 60.

Average price: 400-900+THB What to Try: The “Carnivore” signature Steak Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 3pm - 11pm. (Kitchen open from 4pm - 10pm) Tel:+66 (0)75661061 Website: www.carnivore-thailand.com

Da Carla - Italian and Thai Restaurant Noppharathara Beach, inside Sabai Resort.

For some of the best Italian food you will find in Ao Nang and beyond, you should look no further than this place. Nestled just off Noppharathara Beach and next to Sabai Resort, Da Carla & Poan is a small, informal place owned and managed by an Italian couple who are long-time residents here. As well as great Thai food, this is the place for some real-deal homemade pasta just like it should be made. The hand-filled ravioli and homemade desserts that are on the menu are very hard to argue with. Great meat selection too, with quality steak and the freshest seafood you could hope to find.

Average price: 250+THB What to Try: The hand-filled ravioli Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 7:30am - 2:30pm and 5:30pm - 9:30pm Tel:+66 (0)75637791 Website: www.sabairesort.com

As you would expect, a good selection of imported wine is also available, as well as imported Belgian beers.

The Irish Rover- Irish Pub & Restaurant

Heading towards Ao Nang beach on the “Mc Donald’s Road”, look for the pint of Guinness... The Irish Rover has one of the largest draught beer selections in Southern Thailand, including Kilkenny and a very nice pint of Guinness. Irish ciders Magners and Strongbow are also available for those hot days when nothing else will hit the spot. The kitchen is open until 1am, serving excellent food in generous portions. Expect to see homemade pies, tender steaks, juicy chops, shepherd’s pie (made with Guinness) as well as ploughman’s lunches, bangers and mash and more. Happy hours & drink specials are worth watching out for. Air-conditioned, live sports, pool table and a darts board all complete this little slice of Ireland right here in Ao Nang.

Average price: 250+THB What to Try: The home made pies Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 4pm - 1am. Tel:+66 (0)75637607 Website: www.irishpubaonang.com

TJ’s Sports Bar & Grill

Located on the road to Ao Nang beach, just past Mc Donald’s TJ’s Sports Bar & Grill is the place to go when you want to be yourself for a while. With live sport always running on their large projection wall and numerous big screen TVs, you will have the best experience you can without being on the playing field. In the bar they serve all the classic cocktails by the book and a lot new ones with that “TJ’s touch.” They also offer five different draught beers, English cider and 20+ different bottles of beer. Tj’s is under Swedish management and the kitchen with head chef Oskar cooks up a classic sports bar menu with that little extra - everything from nachos and smaller dishes to big homemade hamburgers and juicy steaks.

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Average price: 220 THB What to Try: The home made burgers & nachos Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from Noon - Late Tel:+66 (0)75637119 Website: www.tjs-krabi.com


Eating Guide Smiling Dog Café - Crêperie Located on main street, opposite KL House in AoNang

The wonderfully titled Smiling Dog Café offers gourmet food without the gourmet price tag. Serving a wide variety of hot and iced drinks and breakfast all day, as well as some of the finest filled crêpes you’ll find anywhere in the South of Thailand. An extensive menu that includes traditional sweet treats like their famous banana and chocolate filled “Chunky Monkey” or “Caramel and Apple”, the Smiling Dog Café also offers plenty to cater for those who prefer a savoury bite. Salmon & cream cheese, Tex Mex and vegetarian options are some of their highlights, and you can even create your own with a wide selection of tasty ingredients.

Average price: 89 THB What to Try: The Chunky Monkey or Tex Mex Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 7am - 8pm. Tel:+66 (0)809-298-297 Website: www.thesmilingdogcafe.com

With freshly ground coffee, comfy seating inside and out, a selection of local and International newspapers and free WiFi, the Smiling Dog Café is a great little place to ease into your day in comfort and style.

The Red Devil - Grill & Lounge

Just outside Ao Nang at the Ao Nammao junction. Big red building. With their focus set firmly on comfort and quality, the Red Devil offers a mouthwatering selection of gourmet steaks, burgers, salads, pizzas and pastas - all top quality and cooked to exacting standards by Italian chef and owner, Umberto. The jewel in the crown of the Red Devil is it’s upstairs VIP lounge area that’s open to the public as well as being bookable for private functions like Birthday parties, meetings and get-togethers with friends. Sumptuously decorated with oversized cushions, low tables and carpeting throughout, “lounging” is almost obligatory. Soft lighting, a dedicated music system and even a “waitress call-button” all make for a wonderfully unique and relaxing atmosphere that really has to be seen to be appreciated.

Average price: 200+THB What to Try: The steaks, pasta & burgers Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 8am - late Tel:+66 (0) 83 175-6938 Website: www.reddevilaonang.com

New lunch specials are now available, offering great discounts on set meals. Call for details or pass by and check the chalkboard outside

Bellini @ Amari Vogue Resort & Spa 149 Moo 3, Tambol Nongtalay, Amphur Muang Krabi 81000

For a beachfront location that will make you linger by the water all night long, pull up a chair at Bellini restaurant. Specializing in authentic Italian cuisine, Bellini has perfected a delicious menu of handmade pastas, gourmet pizza as well as taking full advantage of its seaside locale with delicious seafood specialties and international highlights.

Lotus @ Amari Vogue Resort & Spa Take your tastebuds on a world tour at Lotus restaurant. This laid-back Krabi restaurant features authentic Thai cuisine to suit every craving. With an elegant dining room as well as a terrace for outdoor dining, Lotus is the perfect choice for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Average price: 400++THB What to Try: Bellini’s seafood and Lotus’s carpaccio Free WiFi?: For hotel guests only Opening Hours: Daily. Bellini from 11am - 11pm and Lotus from 6:30am - Midnight Tel: +66 (0) 7560 7777 Website: www.amari.com/vogue


Eating Guide Venezia @ Sofitel

Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort

200 Moo.3 Klong Muang Beach, Tambon Nongtalay, Muang, Krabi

Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort’s Ristorante Venezia serves up gourmet cuisine featuring traditional Italian recipes, pizzas straight from the wood-fired oven & a large selection of wines from all over the globe. Located on the first floor of the resort & next to the grand lobby, tables are available for either indoor dining or on the outdoor terrace, al fresco style, with panoramic views of the ocean and tropical gardens. Specialties include the Albero di Antipasti, at THB++600, a delicious selection of 6 of your favourite anti pasti choices, perfect when you can’t decide from their extensive menu choices. Another must try is the Ravioli Frutti di Mare at THB440++, delectable homemade ravioli stuffed with the freshest Andaman seafood and served in a mouthwatering creamy crab meat sauce!

Average price: 400++THB What to Try: BThe antipasti & ravioli frutti di mare Free WiFi?: No Opening Hours: Open daily from 6pm - 11pm. Tel:+66 (0)75627800 Email: fbsales@sofitelphokeethrakrabi.com Website: www.sofitel.com/6184

Gecko’s restaurant @ The Sheraton Resort & Spa

155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Krabi

The signature restaurant of Sheraton Krabi features fresh pastas, salads and delicious selections from authentic Italian home cooking to pizzas baked in a traditional wood burning oven. Enjoy breathtaking ocean views and the Andaman Sea breeze while dining at this prestigious resort, known the world over for it’s top quality dining experiences. With a mouth-watering array of choices on the menu, you are quite literally spoiled for choice when it comes down to it. Great food in a 5-star location with meticulous attention to detail. What more could you ask for?

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The pizzas Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily from 11am -11pm. Tel: +66 (0)75628000 Website: www.sheraton.com/krabi

Cleopatra - Egyptian Restaurant & Shisha

On the main road to Ao Nang beach, after Mc Donalds

This is without a doubt one of the best things to hit the Ao Nang dining scene this season. The food here is North African and Arabic, so think home-made hummus, baba ghanoush, eggplant curry, falafel and kebabs and you get some idea of what to expect. They have a vast array of dishes that ranges from lamb biryani and pasta to T-Bone steaks and mashed potatoes. Although you must banish any image of a greasy, late night kebab house - this place does it in style. This is the only place around that offers the traditional shisa pipe along with a variety of fruit flavours that are all worth a go - especially if you haven’t tried them before. They use a nontobacco formula that is pretty unique, and a lot better for you as well. They compliment their dishes with a selection of 6 different breads that are all baked on-site in a large outdoors bread oven. Their BBQ grill is just as impressive and there can be nothing better than sitting on the terrace sipping a cool drink and watching your selection being cooked in front of you.

Average Price: 250+THB Shisha: 200 - 450THB What to Try: Hummus, breads, lamb Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Daily from Noon - 2am Tel: +66 (0)82 1951982 email: cleopatra_krabi@hotmail.com

Tattoo de Café

On the Ao Nang Beach Road

The Tattoo de Café is something of an institution in Ao Nang as they have been on the beach for over 8 years and counting. With a fairly unique combo of tattoos and food, you can get inked and drinked (!) at the same time, with top quality in both areas. Forget instant “6-in-one” coffees here as only the freshest ground beans are used in their brews. For something sweet to accompany your cuppa, they offer some truly scrumptious homemade cheesecake and ice-creams that are becoming legendary. If you are after something hot, they have some great house specials that include “Khao Pad Plaa Salit” - fried rice with salted fish & dried chillies, and spaghetti with bacon and black olives. American and English breakfasts, salads, chicken wings, cheesy fries, sandwiches and more all make this place a great - and handy - stop on your way down the beach road.

Average Price: 100+THB What to Try: Grilled chicken & crab sandwich, cheesecake Free WiFi?: Yes Tel: +66 (0) 81-9294766 email: mirorynut@hotmail.com


Eating Guide The Frog & Catfish - Restaurant & Country Inn

Din Daeng Noi, Nong Thale, Krabi Town 81000

Owned and ran by Gary and his wife, Bua, the Frog & Catfish is located in the Din Daeng Noi locality just a 10 minute drive from busy Ao Nang and is a gem of a place. The food here is nothing short of spectacular, with people coming from as far as Railay Beach just to eat for the evening. Top resorts have been sending their head chefs here to see what all the fuss is about, and with good reason. Think duck curries and freshwater fish. Lemongrass and mango fused with chilli and herbs. Sushi roll-style spring rolls with a 7-herb dip. You get the idea. They use locally sourced ingredients and organically grown fish from their own stocks. There are also have a few western items on the menu that include their own take on the classic fish & chips with “proper chips”, a full English breakfast and fillet steak as well as pasta and a few others all prepared in their own impeccable style The location is stunning, the hospitality equally so and the food downright delicious. If you are looking to get away from the bustle of Krabi or Ao Nang for a while, this is the place to go.

Average Price: 150+THB What to Try: Whole fried fish in Boraan Sauce, Duck curry Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Daily from 10am-10pm Tel: +66(0)84 773 0301 Website: www.frogandcatfishkrabi.com

U&P Homemade Bakery 401/4 Ao Nang, Krabi. End of Na Thai Road.

U&P Homemade Bakery has been around for a few years now and has secured itself a place in the hearts and stomachs of many locals and ex-pats in the Ao Nang area. Being one of the very few bakeries in town that bakes a good loaf of bread, U&P also have a great array - and display - of pastries, cakes, flatbreads, rolls, buns and even breadsticks to choose from. They have a fairly extensive menu as well, meaning you can get more than just a decent cup of coffee and croissant in the morning. Lunchtime is sorted with a great selection of western and Thai dishes - the sandwiches being a firm favorite thanks to the freshness of the bread being used and the decent sized portions served up. Their early morning opening is perfect if you want to get a head start on your day, and the free WiFi makes hanging out here a longer pleasure as you can catch up with work or friends online. Located a little out of town for most of the tourist trade, they are certainly worth a look in if you find yourself in the Na Thai area on the outskirts of Ao Nang. You won’t be disappointed!

What to Try: Sandwiches Free WiFi?: Yes Average Price: 100THB Opening Hours: 6am - 5pm Tel.: 081-8956670

Khao Thong Terrace This place is the restaurant equivalent of a pot of gold at the end of a particularly spectacular rainbow. I’d bet my left arm that there is no way you would ever find the Khao Thong Terrace in a gazillion years until now. Heck, we had no idea it existed until a Thai friend told us about it. The food here matches the view - simply amazing. If you tire of the usual “Thai Tourist” fodder then imagine a herb salad consisting of ginger, lemongrass, carrot, lime, spring onion and chilli with a Thai sweet sauce relish, or “Laab Pla”, aka spicy, crispy fish salad and an amazing yellow curry with crab that has Thai locals honing in here from miles around. Don’t be worried that this is exclusively a Thai place though, as they cater for both local and notso local palates. Crunchy spring rolls, chicken satay sticks, fresh fish fried with turmeric, homemade fish cakes and chicken any way you like it are all possible, and all fresh from the water you gaze at while devouring. Washed down with a fresh cocktail - or even a mocktail for the drivers - Khao Thong Terrace promises to be an evening you won’t, and shouldn’t, forget.

Average Price: 120THB What to Try: The crab curry Free WiFi?: Thankfully not Opening Hours: Daily from 11am-10pm Tel: +66(0)83 107 4400 Email: khaothongterrace@gmail.com

Wanna’s Place @ The L Resort North end of the Beach Road. Can’t miss it.

One of the very first restaurants in Ao Nang from 20 years ago, Wanna’s Place at the L Resort has hones it’s food and service to perfection. Owned and ran by A Swiss National, They offer an extensive range of Thai and Swiss food that is unsurpassed in the area. As well as the usual Thai dished you want to see, they have dishes like the original “Zurich Geschnetzeltes”, Schnitzel with cream sauce and noodles, or a veal sausage with Rösti. They serve “sizzling steaks” on hot stones for you to prepare just the way you like at your table. As a thank-you to the local community - as well as keeping their ingredients as top-notch as they can - Wanna’s Place has their own organic farm that employs local people to grow their own produce. Perfectly located on the Beach road, the large, open restaurant is airy and roomy with great views of the ocean and an idyllic base for people-watching with a cool drink. Rated as the No. 2 restaurant in Ao Nang on Trip Advisor, this is a must-try place.

Average Price: 200+THB What to Try: Steak on hot stone Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 7am - 10pm Tel.: 075 637 484 Website: www.thelresort.com


Eating Guide Cafe Del Mar Restaurant 126/2 Moo 3, Ao Nang, Krabi

This well-known eatery is the partner restaurant to the Baan Bandalay Resort next to it, and is a great place for some good Thai food close to the center of things. With an impressive view of the towering green jungle-covered cliffs opposite, you can very happily while away some time here sipping a fresh fruit shake or partaking in one of the classical Thai dishes the South has become renowned for. Curries are good here and the Massaman in particular has been singled out by many as one to look forward to. They also offer sizzling platters that come to your table for that something a little different! Good food, local ingredients and well presented - Cafe Del Mar is hard to beat.

Average Price: 120THB What to Try: The Mussaman currry Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: All day Tel: +66(0) 75 638 085/6 Email: reservation@baanbandalay.com

Bussaba Thai Restaurant 129 Moo3, Ao Nang Beach, Ao Nang, Krabi

The Bussaba Thai Restaurant is a terrific place to start if you have just arrived in Thailand. That’s not to say it’s only for newcomers - not by a long shot - but for a first introduction to this country and it’s cuisine, it hits the spot. The location, for one, is close to Ao Nang beach which makes for a pleasant stroll to and from the place, to get your juices flowing. Once you arrive, the combination of delicious cooking aromas coming from the kitchen will again give you a better idea of what’s to come. Seafood is the name of the game here, and its as fresh as you can get. Crab, snapper, king prawns and more can be steamed, fried, battered and minced with the freshest ingredients to create something for everyone. For those of you adverse to the chilli, they can serve sauces on the side or recommend a host of other options, including lime, garlic, lemongrass and plum sauces to compliment your dish.

Average Price: 250THB What to Try: Seafood Free WiFi?: Nope Tel: +66(0) 75 661 409 Website: www.bussabathairestaurant@live.com

Formerly known as “E-San Seafood”, there is a distinct Northern twist to the food, which means traditional recipes at a lower price than a lot of the other restaurants in the area. Cheap, tasty, simple and with friendly service, the Bussaba Thai Restaurant is hard to beat for that real-deal Thai food experience. One happy customer even went on to state, “I could eat here every day for the rest of my life” Enough said, I suppose...

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• FREE tapas available to all guests on Friday & Saturday evenings from 5:30pm - 7pm

• Open from 8am - Late • Contact: 083 175 6938


The Longtailboat located at seafood street, offering spectacular views over the bay of Ao-nang. We’re dedicated to providing our guests with brilliant times in a chic and relaxed setting with our good service, here you will find a superb dining experience and great memories. Our experienced chefs proudly present you our authentic Thai and European cuisine. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality from the fisherman boat at reasonable price.

Information:

Menu sample :

Contact: 075 638 093

01. our "The princess of ao nang" signature experience of Assorted seafood deep fried with sweet plum sauce.

Average cost per person: 500 Bt.

02. " Stir fried snapper fish with black pepper sauce" with garlic butter fried rice

House wine per bottle: 900 - 1,800 Bt.

03. " Massaman Tiger prawns" served with Roti bread

Credit Cards: Visa, Master

04. Barbecued "Jumbo prawns" with vegetable and sweet sour sauce served with steamed rice

Service & Tax: No Charge Popular dish: "Guarantee fresh Seafood"

European sample:

delivery every day from the fisherman boat

01. Lasagna classica bolognese

(most fishing from Ao nang sea)

02. Pizza "Quattro Formaggi"

Open from: 13:00 last order 22:30

03. Cozze al vino bianco - new zealand mussels in our creamy white wine sauce . A traditional Italian recipe

facebook page: Thelongtailboat restaurant,Krabi

04. Australian Angus "Tenderlion" with red wine sauce served with baked potato and grilled vegetable

e-mail: thelongtailboat@gmail.com

05. Grilled Fillet of Sea Bass with White Wine cream Sauce - served with fresh salad and garlic bread

For taxi: รานอาหารเดอะ ลองเทลโบท อยูในซอยอาวนางซีฟูด ริมทะเลหาดอาวนาง

* Vegetarian Selection


Muay-Yo-Chi @ Ao Nang Cliff Beach Resort

A

o Nang Cliff Beach Resort is making spent in paradise. Nestled around the market is the headlines. This boutique style resort is new Beer Garden where locals and travelers share nestled on a towering slope facing the majestic Ao Nang drinks, enjoy live entertainment and watch the world cliff. A limestone mountain that demands attention as slowly pass by. it leads the procession of Krabi. Strategically located near shopping, restaurants, entertainment and Ao We know that while our guests want to enjoy the Nang beach; you will peacefully stroll up the stairs ‘sabai sabai’ (relaxing) atmosphere that Thailand has to the resort. Finding panorama ocean view rooms; to offer. They do not want to neglect their continued having a private balcony for you to spend time in efforts in staying healthy and fit. Unique to our resort, the fresh air, relaxing as you we provide our guests with listen to the birds singing or more than just a lovely place We take this sport to the snuggle with a good book. to enjoy their holiday. We Imagine watching the sunset swimming pool, offering Muay Thai offer an in-house program to on the balcony with a glass meet the physical needs of Aquarobics of Champagne – pure bliss. our residents while staying You may just want to daydream as you enjoy our true to the heart of Thailand’s roots. Providing Yoga timeless view of the Andaman Sea. and Tai Chi classes and even offering classes in Thailand’s National Sport, Muay Thai. Yes, our guests We capture the heart of our guests by providing an can experience what it is like to take on the “eye of environment that allows them to get closer to Thai the tiger” and become the king of the ring. However culture. Arranging visits to the Krabi Museum of our ring is a bit different than you might imagine. We Contemporary Arts, shopping sprees at the second take this sport to the swimming pool; offering Muay largest indoor market in Thailand and the ever popular Thai Aquarobics. Of course, we offer instruction on Krabi Night Market. Every Thursday, Ao Nang provides dry ground too but what a way to enjoy your workout its own night market located in front of the resort. Here while having fun in our cool crystal saltwater pool. you can purchase hand-crafted souvenirs of your time

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For those who are travelling to our lovely sea village that want to experience a few days of fun, fitness and Thai culture we also make available the “Kick Fit Getaway”. A weekend wrapped up in fitness classes, island tours, healthy eating and traditional Thai massage. We also inaugurate a new well-being regime; “Muay-Yo-Chi” an innovative combination of Muay Thai, Yoga and Tai Chi. The “Kick Fit Getaway” will send you back to your homeland with a renewed sense of energy, balance and happiness. All of our instructors are professionally certified trainers; providing you a fun, safe experience that will warrant your return. Dream no more! Make your getaway plans to join us at the Ao Nang Cliff Beach Resort.

Make your inquiries to: doc@aonangcliffbeach.com Visit our website: www.aonangcliffbeach.com


Your home for the holidays Celebrate with family and friends enjoying our special rates on a wide range of dining options such as International, Italian, Authentic Indian and Royal Thai Cuisine. Find out more at sheraton.com/krabi or call 6675 628 000



Meet the Locals Thanaporn Boonyanon (Bpow) If you live in Krabi I’m guessing that you just might have a smile on your face about now. If you are a visitor here, then get ready to meet one of the nicest people you are likely to encounter anywhere. A real icon of Krabi, Bpow has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the underwater world and is the undisputed king of the Massaman curry.

KM: Bpow, it’s great to see you again and thanks so much for letting us come and visit you today - I know how busy you are. How are you?

a lot in the evenings. This was where I began to learn a lot of things about life outside of Thailand that have served me to this day.

B: Not bad at all, thanks - and it’s good to see you too!

KM: How long were you there for?

KM: Bpow, you are something of an institution here in Ao Nang and everyone has a good word to say about you. Tell us a little about your story - how did you come to be here running The Massaman? B: I am originally from Nakon Si Thammarat in the north of Thailand and when I hit 19 years of age, I started to ask some serious questions about myself and the world around me. I always had a thirst for knowledge and a desire to explore and see what lay around the next corner! At school I took a couple of extra classes - one in electronics and another in rubber tree agriculture - and I discovered a love for agriculture that I wanted to pursue. At the time, agriculture production here in Thailand was very basic and we were just starting to learn how to streamline our processes. The government realised the need for us to get up to speed with this and so they started a program for volunteers like me to travel overseas to study and learn from other countries. So before I knew it I was off to Israel for the adventure of my life! KM: Israel? Really?? B: Ha ha! Yeah I know. Bet you didn’t know that? There I was, living in a kibbutz with no words of English at all but started to learn with the help from other volunteers I was with from all over the world. I remember an Australian guy helping me

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B: 10 months the first time, but I returned several times over the next 6 years to help other new volunteers and Thai people who were in the same position I was in at the time. KM: So how did you end up in Krabi? B: I received a phone call from a friend of mine in Krabi offering me a job at the Krabi Sea View Resort. I felt it was the right time in my life to go and see another part of Thailand, and with my new skills in English, I was confident in the position - so off I went. KM: It wasn’t as simple as that though, was it? I heard that you had some “hiccups”….. B: Yes, you could say that. After a year in Krabi I started up my own tour company as well as a restaurant with a business partner. Unfortunately I was involved in a traffic accident that I had to pay a lot of money for, and ended up selling everything to pay for it. Back home to Nakon I went! KM: Ouch. That must have been tough for you after your big dreams of leaving home to start a new life here? B: It was, but I knew that I was going to make something of myself someday. And 6 months after I went home, the phone rang again. This time it was the dive shop Aquavision with a job offer for me. They wanted me to come and work for them selling dives, talking to customers, etc. I was over

the moon! Off to Krabi I went again. KM: You’re persistent, I’ll give you that. So I’m guessing that this was your introduction to the world of diving? You are well known for your experience of the dive sites around here, tell us more about that. B: Over the course of 2 years working with Aquavision, I learned to dive with them and I fell in love with the underwater world. This was back in 1999 and I remember diving the Bida sites many times. They were breathtaking, with some of the largest sea fans you were even likely to see. The coral reefs were stunning and there were leopard sharks everywhere. It was common to see 7, 8 or 9 of them on a regular dive. It pains me to see how things have changed over the years. KM: You are well known around Krabi for your dive maps and the incredible detail in them. We often joke that you must know every rock underwater - but judging by the drawings, that’s not far wrong! B: I began sketching the maps as, to be honest, I had no idea where I was going underwater! I did not know the dives sites and at that time there were no real maps for us to learn from. Over the years, with my own experience and information taken from other experienced divers, I compiled a collection of my maps and made them into a book. Some people urged me to sell them, and so I did just that. I’m very proud of my maps and they are still selling pretty well every year. KM: I remember my days working on the dive boats here and your maps were the only ones we would use. It’s quite an achievement so well


KM: Why do I feel this didn’t quite work out…? B: You guessed it. There was an extremely dry summer one year and not enough water available for my watermelons. So I lost a lot of money and was back to square one! KM: This is starting to sound like a movie plot, Bpow. So then what? B: Well, I now knew how to speak English and dive, so I got work diving on Koh Lanta during the high seasons and Ao Nang in the low. I did this for 4 years. KM: So apart from your diving, the other thing you are renowned for is your restaurant, “The Massaman”. This is one of the best loved places for us local ex-pats as, well, your food is great. I remember yours was one of the first places I ate at when I arrived in Krabi.

done you! So the rest is history then? That’s how you came to stay in Krabi? B: Ha! No, not quite. The owners changed at Aquavision and we really did not get along. The time came when I could not work with them any more and I left - once again back home to the North. KM: You serious? Again?? What were you doing there? B: I decided to start growing watermelons. KM: Watermelons?

B: I was always looking for something new to focus on. I loved the diving part of my life but was also keen on doing something on the side, something different. Like all Thais, I love food and my Mother’s speciality was the Massaman curry so I named my new restaurant after her creation and strived to provide good, home cooked recipes that I hoped people would enjoy. KM: Well, it worked. You are known to have the best massaman in town and every time I see your place it seems to be filled with people and getting larger at the same time! The people and the restaurant... B: I am proud of the fact that my first restaurant all those years ago could seat 20 people over 6 tables, and now I can seat 76 people at The Massaman. I employ 15 staff too, and every year I am honoured to have locals and visitors alike come to my place and enjoy my food. It keeps me really busy as I come to the restaurant myself most evenings to help cook the food, serve and meet my customers - but I love it.

B: Yes, watermelons. That and some other vegetables, using my knowledge from my time spent in Israel.

KM: So what do you see for your future then Bpow? Will you finally stay in Ao Nang this time? B: Definitely! I love Ao Nang and it is my “home-away-from-home” now. I am also happily married with 2 young sons, so I am finally “putting down roots” here! KM: One thing we have to mention is this “Red Line” that has been causing a lot of controversy around the town. Basically, the road down to the beach is to be widened, but this will mean that a lot of places that have outside seating will have to remove them by Feb 28th - to behind this red line that has been drawn to mark the boundary of the new road. You have had to remove your “Red Balcony Bar” already, which is a real shame. How do you feel about this road widening move? B: This is a major issue that is affecting hundreds of people and business in Ao Nang. I have been here for many years now and have witnessed a lot of changes in that time. In my opinion, the money that has been allocated to widen the road should be used to clean up Ao Nang instead. This is a much more urgent and serious issue and needs to be addressed now. We will have to see what comes of this road widening scheme. I was very sad to take away the “Red Balcony”, but I did not want to get involved with the politics of all of this. I was easier this way. KM: I know that you are not alone in this Bpow - many others are up in arms too about the road widening and how it will affect the town. I also agree that the money for this would be more wisely spent on cleaning up the place with more rubbish bins, removal procedures, recycling and better infrastructure before allowing even more people to drive into the centre of the town. Let’s see what happens. At least you won’t have to close - there would be riots in the streets if that happened! B: Haha! Thanks, it’s nice to know my food is appreciated. KM: Bpow, thanks so much for taking the time out to tell us your story. It’s always a pleasure. Now, if I can have some pumpkin curry to go…. Catch Bpow at The Massaman on the road to Mc Donalds on the right. If you want the best dive maps in the area, drop him a line on 081 272 0568


+66 (0) 75 638 098, +66 (0) 819-797-89-5

info@wedding-in-thailand.com

info@krabi-spesialisten.com

Phi Phi Highlights & Sunset Cruise by JIWA, the “Bugis” sailing Yacht

Ends March 15!

Leaving Ao Nang at 09:00, our “Bugis” Sailing Yacht cruises directly to Maya Bay, the famous location of the movie “The Beach”. Since our timetable is designed to avoid the crowds, we will visit the bay just after lunch time when it is at its most peaceful and beautiful. Here you will have plenty of time to snorkel amongst the colorful reef fish and visit the beach. On the way from Ao Nang to Maya Beach you will enjoy a delicious Thai buffet lunch is served on board before we arrive to Maya Beach. After Maya Bay we continue on to view other highlights of Phi Phi such as Viking Cave, Hin-Klang, Phi Ley Bay etc., before our final stop of the day at Bamboo Island. Here you will have time to enjoy the tranquil and beautiful beach while it is almost deserted. Leaving the beach around 16:00, you will arrive back aboard the “Bugis” sailing Yacht, to find a refreshing cocktail punch, red and white wine, ice cold beer, soft drinks and canapés await you. Then we cruise slowly back to during the Sunset, while listening to relaxing music during the sunset cruise back to Ao Nang. On the return journey we pass Koh Poda, Koh Gai, & Railay, and you will enjoy Ao Nang by night, glittering and glowing in the dark, a final memory of an unforgettable day to take home. (Beverage including in the tour price: soft drinks, water and 1 glass of “Bugis” cocktail punch. Other alcoholic drinks are for sale on board during the day and sunset cruise) Itinerary 07:50 – 08:00 08:00 – 08:30 09:00 11:30 12:30 13:30 15:00 16:00-16:30 18:30-19:00

Tub Kaek Hotels Pick-up Klong Muang and Ao Nang Hotels Departure from Ao Nang Buffet Lunch served on board Arrival at Maya Beach Cruise around Phi Phi Ley, passing Viking Caves etc. Arrive at Bamboo Island for swimming and relaxation Depart Bamboo island for Sunset cruise, cocktails and canapés Arrive at Ao Nang beach and return to hotel


Try your

Thai

Krabi is well-used to foreigners and most of the Thai people that deal with tourists on a daily basis will have a smattering of English to get by. The employees at your resort, for example. But if you want to try out a little of their own language, you will be rewarded by even bigger smiles and even the odd giggle. The Thais really do appreciate you making an effort to speak their language and just the odd word here and there can make all the difference in your relationships with them. Hello (male speaker)........................................................................... “Sawadee Krap” Hello (female speaker).......................................................................... “Sawadee Kaa” How are you?...................................................................................... “Sabai Dee Mai?” I’m fine........................................................................................................... “Sabai Dee” How much is this?................................................................................ “A Nee Tao Rai?” What is this?..................................................................................................“Nee a Rai?” Yes............................................................................................................................. “Chai” No..................................................................................................................... “Mai Chai” Sorry/Excuse me.............................................................................................“Kor Toht” I can’t speak Thai................................................................. “Poot Passa Thai Mai Dai” Can you speak English?..................................... “Khun Poot Passa Angrit Dai Mai?” I don’t understand.................................................................................. “Mai Khao Jai” Do you understand?..............................................................................“Khao Jai Mai? Help!..................................................................................................... “Chooey Dooey!” Spicy........................................................................................................................... “Pet” Not spicy............................................................................................................“Mai Pet” Is that tasty?................................................................................................. “A Roy Mai? Hot (Temperature)............................................................................................... “Rawn” Cold............................................................................................................................“Yen” Water................................................................................................................... “Naam” Where is the restroom/toilet?....................................... “Hong Naam Yoo Tee Nai? Can I have the bill/check?......................................................................... “Kep Tang” Where are you going?....................................................................................“Pai Nai? See you soon.........................................................................................“Pop Gan Mai”

And the one that rules them all - the 3 words that every Thai lives by and that can teach us stress-monkeys a thing or two about life…

It doesn’t matter No big deal Don’t worry about it Never mind

Alongkorn Language School Learn Thai the easy way!

Fully licensed by the MOE Experienced teacher with Thai Language Teaching Certification Develop Thai and Speaking skills in the fastest way Learning method includes textbook, exercises and many activities ED visa provided with 1 year Thai course

“Mai Pen Rai”

Numbers 1 - Noong 2 - Song 3 - Sam 4 - See 5 - Haa

6 - Hock 7 - Jet 8 - Ped 9 - Khao 10 - Sip

www.aonanglanguageschool.com Tel. 075-695-437 , 081-806-4493


Into the Blue Andaman Freediving Competition Results The 2013 Andaman Freediving competition is over and what a time was had by all. With competitors coming from all over the world to meet old friends and make new ones, pit their skills against the best there is and even shatter a few records in the process. (6 national records broken, to be precise) This year there were a grand total of zero blackouts, which is a testament to the training and skill of the competitors, and only adds to the overall success of the event. The bar has been raised higher than ever, thanks to the folks at Blue Planet Divers on Koh Lanta - the organisers of the annual challenge. Lets see what they can come up with next year! Congratulations to the winners and to all those who took part.

Photo by Courtney Platt

Krabi Tides March 2013

Underwater Photo Award for Poseidon Congratulations go to Daniel Sasse, owner of Poseidon Diving Centre in Ao Nang as he wins a “Best of the Year� award on the website www.pixoto.com. His shot of sunlight streaming in through the cave at Koh Sii was a favourite amongst the voters and he was soon up in the Top 10% of all entries. Well done Danny! Koh Sii is a firm favourite dive site among those exploring the waters of Krabi, as it is relatively shallow with an abundance of marine life to encounter. The cave this was taken in adds another element to the site, and is well worth finding. www.poseidonkrabi.com


Your guide to the underwater world in Krabi

Whalesharks Return to Krabi Dive Sites It looks as if the return of the elusive whale sharks has come a little earlier this year, as several dive companies have reported spotting a young specimen of approximately 6 metres in length in and around the local dive sites of Krabi and Ao Nang. One company even met it on their way back to Noppharathara Pier while in their longtail boat and took the opportunity to jump in the water and snorkel with it as it went about feeding at the surface. Whale sharks are very docile creatures and feed on tiny plankton usually close to the surface. They are the largest fish in the ocean and a real treat to come across. Lets hope it stays around for the rest of the high season at least! If you are out on a boat around the islands, keep your eyes peeled for our new visitor but remember - look but don’t touch!

075-637-119

info@tjs-krabi.com www.tjs-krabi.com

Open Daily

From 12:00 to Late

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075-637-118

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Secret Corner The words “Frog” and “Beach” are ones that are rarely used in the same sentence. So when we came across the Frog Beach Bar, we were intrigued to the point of stopping and investigating. Ok, it was the “Bar” part mostly - but what we found was a little nook of calm in the middle of Ao Nang.. Located on Noppharathara Beach, just across the bridge and after the seafood restaurants, the Frog Beach Bar is ran by a young man called “Kob”. Kob means “Frog” in Thai, so there you have it. Kob is one of those guys who have the energy of 4 people. I now know where mine went. He is seemingly always there at all times of the day, with a smile and a welcome chat that makes Thailand what it is. He was more than happy to offer us one of his specialities - the cocount shake - as we dug deeper into his story.

no less than 41 - yes, 41 different cocktails from his little wooden shack. I kid ye not. He has 23 spirits lined up and ready for action, as well as a selection of beers, shakes and smoothies that seem frankly impossible when you see the space he has to work in.

tuk tuk food carts and order the food for you before you get stuck in right there at his tables. I have no doubt that it’s this kind of attitude that keeps people coming back for more, and judging by the impressive amount of trade he has all through the day, it’s working to his advantage.

Frog takes relaxing seriously, despite his vibrating personality. He has furniture made from old pieces of driftwood facing the beach for a truly natural feel. An avid lover of Reggae music, you can expect to hear the likes of Bob Marley drifting along as you sip your drink and watch the world pass by. One of the reasons my folks returned here every day was the constant breeze that refreshes the place - perfect for those hot and sticky days.

As the sun dips towards the horizon, the place is transformed. Twinkly lights come on and you realise that you have the best seat in the house to watch the sunset. Nothing but ocean and sand in front of you as you sip your cocktail and say “sayonara” to another day in paradise. What could be better?

If you’re feeling like a nibble, Kob has a rather unusual attitude to bringing your own food to his place. You can. Heck, he’ll even flag down passing

Check out Kob’s place on Noppharathara Beach from 11am every day. Contact him on 080 388 6096

The coconut shake is well worth a try, we can now confirm. My parents actually found this place when they came to visit us over Christmas - they were staying over the road at one of the resorts and landed at “The Frog” when looking for some light refreshment one day. They returned every day for a fortnight and had worked their way through several trees-worth of coconuts by the time they left. The coffee is also one to look out for. With many resorts now offering instant coffee in the rooms or lackluster percolated stuff that has been on a hotplate for hours - Frog makes his fresh for you and can whip up an espresso or cappuccino on the spot. Another of his secret weapons is apparently a mean Mojito. I say “apparently” as it was still a little early for my wuss companion so we declined the opportunity for some afternoon shenanigans. But it’s on my to-do list.... As well as the Mojito, old Froggy can whip up

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Naked Cruelty By Colleen Mc Cullough Published by Harper Collins UK ISBN : 9780007412594 America in 1968 is in turmoil and the leafy Holloman suburb of Carew is being silently terrorised by a series of vicious and systematic rapes. When finally one victim finds the courage to speak out and go to the police, the rapist escalates to murder. For Captain Carmine Delmonico, it seems to be a case with no clues. And it comes as the Holloman Police Department is troubled: a lieutenant is out of his depth, a sergeant is out of control, and into this mix comes the beautiful, ruthlessly ambitious new trainee, Helen MacIntosh, daughter of the influential president of Chubb University. As the killer makes his plans, Carmine and his team must use every resource at their disposal -- including a highly motivated neighbourhood watch, the Gentlemen Walkers! Locking your door won’t help. He’s already inside! America in 1968 is in turmoil and the leafy Holloman suburb of Carew is being silently terrorised by a series of vicious and systematic rapes. When finally one victim finds the courage to speak out and go to the police, the rapist escalates to murder. For Captain Carmine Delmonico, it seems to be a case with no clues. And it comes as the Holloman Police Department is troubled: a lieutenant is out of his depth, a sergeant is out of control, and into this mix comes the beautiful, ruthlessly ambitious new trainee, Helen MacIntosh, daughter of the influential president of Chubb University. As the killer makes his plans, Carmine and his team must use every resource at their disposal -- including a highly motivated neighbourhood watch, the Gentlemen Walkers!

Everyone likes to read a good book on holiday, so we take a look at 3 spankingly great reads this month that are perfect for whiling away your lazy days here in Krabi.

All area available through Asiabooks stores in Krabi

Holiday

Reads

S.E.C.R.E.T

Feast Day of Fools

By L. Marie Adeline

By James Lee Burke

Published by Transworld ISBN : 9780552169394

Published by The Orion Publishing Group, Ltd. ISBN : 9781780220284

A young widow, Cassie’s life is filled with sadness and regret. She waits tables at the rundown Cafe Rose in New Orleans, heading home each night to her solitary one-bedroom apartment. But when she discovers a notebook left behind by a mysterious woman at the cafe, Cassie’s world is changed forever. The notebook’s stunningly explicit confessions shock and fascinate Cassie, and eventually lead her to Secret, an underground society dedicated to helping women realize their wildest, most intimate sexual fantasies. Cassie soon immerses herself in an electrifying journey through a series of rapturous fantasies with gorgeous men who awaken and satisfy her like never before. As she is set free from her inhibitions, she discovers a new confidence that transforms her, giving her the courage to live passionately at last. Enticing, liberating and emotionally powerful, Secret is a world where fantasy becomes reality.

Danny Boy Lorca was used to having apocalyptic visions - the beatings he’d taken in jail and the booze he drank to forget them made sure of that - but what he saw and heard that night out in the desert was more terrifying than anything even his battered spirit could have conjured. A man tortured to death. Slowly and methodically and with inhuman cruelty. When Danny Boy tells his tale to Sheriff Hackberry Holland, Hack knows something evil has leaked over the border into his corner of South Texas. What he doesn’t realize is that this brutal slaying is just the beginning of a twisted three-way manhunt that will pit a psychotic killer seeking release for the souls of his murdered children against a religious maniac in love with death, and a Russian gangster whose name is a byword for fear...


A Plate Full of Charm A plate full of charm by Emily Huang-Ramirez

I

t’s no secret that Thailand’s cuisine is world famous. Word on the streets is that the Vietnam War propelled Thai cuisine onto the global scene in the ‘70’s, as international soldiers stationed in Thailand returned home with Siam culinary gold. Today, you’d be hard pressed to swing a dead cat and not hit a Thai food restaurant somewhere on planet Earth, and rightfully so.

Thai food is all sorts of wonderful. But authenticating your culinary highlights in Thailand should go beyond stuffing your mouth-hole to the brim. The true experience is learning to cook like a Thai! Fortunately for everyone – lackluster, inexperienced cooks included - learning how to prepare and cook classic Thai food is not rocket surgery. It’s surprisingly easy with the right recipe and tools, but more importantly, with the right teacher. My disarmingly charming and gregariously witty friend Max recently opened his own cooking school, appropriately named “Thai Charm Cooking School”. He has the exact persona one would want for tackling page-long recipes with exotic ingredients. He’s a

mushroom, if you will – a funguy. But his jokes have a lot less cheese than that one.

The feast includes a soup, a curry paste from scratch, a few main courses, and of course, dessert.

The ubiquitous karst views are the perfect backdrop to Max’s outdoor school. The fun (and at the same time, difficult task) starts as each student gets to choose six dishes to make, from a list of 18. Many of these dishes are classic Thai fare such as Pad Thai, Green Curry, and Mangos with Sticky Rice. Grub for thought: If you are a mathamagician, bringing two accomplices means you get to sample all 18 dishes, so plan accordingly.

Max comes from a tradition of cooking for the masses. He started as a child learning alongside his mother, and eventually went on to cook in Italian, Thai and Seafood restaurants in Chiang Mai. His real knack, however, has been in teaching. With over four years experience teaching in cooking schools in Chiang Mai, he opened the doors of the school here in Ao Nang, just two months ago. Much like Max, all of the ingredients used are fresh, vibrant, and fragrant. Feeling, smelling, tasting,


and discovering each one individually is sure to be a highlight. Learning is not some boring “student-see-studentdo” gig; you’re treated to a bottomless pit of historical side notes, cultural tidbits and, as promised, a lot of belly laughing of the six-pack inducing variety. From the start, Max guarantees fun, and I am not one to be threatened with a good time so I heartily indulged. That’s not to say I didn’t have to work for it. Just because curry rhymes with hurry does not make it so, folks. But I have a deep appreciation for the labor that is curry paste, not to mention my “curry biceps,” as they shall henceforth be known. As well, I’d say my Penang curry chicken was top notch, as was my Som Tam (papaya salad), and cashew chicken,

thanks to Max. The best part of any cooking experience is the eating part, naturally. Max has the recipes and instruction down to an exact science, so no dish failed the taste test that day. And in true Thai style, there was no shortage of hospitality. At the end of the course we were given cookbooks with recipes of the dishes we made, as well as other dishes just as easily made with the skills learned in cooking class. With the exception of curry paste from scratch, many Thai dishes are considerably easy to make once a professional has taught you. Overall, the experience was a viscerally pleasing one. As I left the school with leftovers in a plastic bag Thai Tupperware, I couldn’t wait to get cooking again.

Contact Thai Charm Cooking School on 087-032-0320 or email apichet200981@gmail.com


In Search of Magic Ink: Part Deux

L

ife gets interesting where the sidewalk ends. You’d be hard pressed to find a brochure or tour guide offering a peek into the world of Sak Yant tattooing, yet the sacred geometry is everywhere. Searching for an authentic source – a Sak Yant monk – was no easy feat; many leads evaporated just as soon as they appeared. But after two months of inquiring around town, a casual conversation at Mr. Long’s Bar over yet another tequila shake culminated in a visit with Ajarn Bunsong, a Buddhist monk/ Sak Yant master residing in a temple in Ao Na Mao. Mr. Long and family became acquainted with Ajarn Bunsong not long ago when they sought a monk to bless his business. They invited me to come meet him and low and behold, the adventure that I hoped this search would become finally came to fruition. Sak Yant, or Yantra tattooing, is a Buddhist/ animist-adjacent tattoo practice believed to protect the bearer from such evils It is also believed to promote good fortune, or bestow certain powers, dependent on the design received. The belief dates back thousands of years, and although laymen may imprint designs, these tattoos are traditionally given by monks. One fine Sunday, myself and Mr. Long Bar crew – Mr. Long’s wife whom we only know as Mama; Mr. Long’s son, Zeph; Zeph’s best friend Suh-py Spy; Zeph’s sister Parisa and

52 4

baby girl; and token tourists Swedish Erik and English Jethro – happily set off to have our spiritual shifts/physical manifestations imprinted onto our back real estate, whilst making offerings for the continued blessings of life on earth. Unbeknownst to us, this venture would require Thai-ime. What began as one o’clock became five o’clock became tomorrow became in a few hours after we all drive to Krabi Town to ordain another monk first. The ordination ceremony detour was actually quite an honor to witness, so we didn’t mind. Returning to Ao Na Mao, it was finally time to catch a stabbing…several of them. Tattoos are for anyone but not for everyone. I have an affinity to the art but not the commitment, so myself and Parisa opted for the oil versions, in which sesame oil is used in place of ink. The rest of the procedure is the same: a steel needle is attached to a long bamboo stick (called a khem sak) and the Sak Yant is pierced into the skin in pulses, resulting in the appearance of hundreds of dot-like markings to culminate in an intricately patterned design of ancient Pali incantations in Khmer script. finished by blowing on the Sak Yak and rubbing the area. I would classify myself As Ajarn Bunsong tattooed the design, he chanted a blessing,

as someone with a high pain tolerance, and Parisa had already given birth once so…there’s that. Nonetheless, it is quite painful and may send you into a serotonin/ endorphin-induced sweat overload, but it is short-lived. The ordeal was over in less than ten minutes. It is recommended that if you can accessorize with fat then do so; the nape of the neck and upper back are very sensitive and the skinnier you are, the worse. Traditionally, all seekers of a Sak Yant must receive the same Nine Spire (called the Kao Yord) tattoo first, below the nape of the neck. For this reason, it is also known as Yant Kroo, meaning ‘master,’ or ‘teacher yant.’ This tattoo essentially permits the bearer to enter into the lineage, after which they become a disciple and are entitled to receive further yant. There are several different versions of Kao Yord, and the incantations, symbols and other unique marks differ widely among masters. Ajarn Bunsong has studied the scripts - often referred to as a bible - and the art of Sak Yant for over 20 years, so we were surprised yet not surprised when he tattooed Erik’s ink Sak Yant free-hand. Because Erik’s was a true imprint, the ritual was followed by Ajarn Bunsong chanting another blessing while hitting his back three times with an unsheathed sword, as proof of its power that now resides within Erik. For some, Sak yant is merely a memento, for both foreigners and Thais alike. But surely it


by Emily Huang-Ramirez is disrespectful to receive a religious symbol without understanding its meaning or worse, not believing in what it represents. In the short two months I’ve spent delving into this subject my understanding is as deep as the scratches on my back, but I’ve come to appreciate the raw poetry of this spiritual world that means much more than ink. Like medicine, it is an ongoing practice. At a basic level, intention is king, and at a minimum the bearer of any Sak Yant should strive to follow the Five precepts: do not kill, steal, lie, commit adultery, and control consumption of intoxicants. These are common to almost any belief system, but as we all know, obedience is the challenge. Zeph and Spy are avid believers. Spy lived and studied in a monastery for over four years and I often find them praying their daily prayers together. They have a wealth of knowledge to share on the Buddhist subjects of striving for a pure heart, rectifying past mistakes, giving gratitude and understanding that what we do in this life affects the next – reincarnation is a strong Buddhist belief. As with any practice comes both risk and gray areas. The first is safety. As of now, none of us have contracted the Hepatitis alphabet. These are protective tattoos after all, and the irony of receiving harm from the tattoo itself would likely cause the universe to implode. Precautions are taken to sterilize the needle and some temples allow you to bring your own, but in our case we were tattooed with Ajarn Bunsong’s own instruments. The spread

of STDs and disease as a result of Sak Yant are inconclusive. You must decide the level of risk you are willing to accept, but more importantly, do your research. The second, more controversial issue regards humans with lady bits. Forsaking sensual pleasures – asceticism- is one of many important monastic vows. At its core, asceticism acknowledges that people are weak, emotional, and desirous. Monks abstain from touching women (and vice versa for nuns) as a means to avoid distraction and stay true to their brand of abstinence. Thus, it is not an insult to women, but perceiving it as an insult is in and of itself, an insult. As such, a barricade of toilet paper was placed on my back in the area where Ajarn Bunsong would need to rest his hand, as is common for monks who perform Sak yant on women. The debate about Sak Yant and women is a hefty one, and not all monks will tattoo a woman. I can only advise you to do your homework, proceed with caution and as always, remain respectful and cognizant of your body. At the intersection of this world and the spiritual one, we should continually look into our inner section. While Sak Yant is believed to protect and provide good fortune in this life, you need to take a big swim in Lake You to get to the core of why you seek the power of Sak Yant, and

whether you are committed in heart to follow the teachings. Its true essence lies more in guidance and assistance towards becoming a better person; the blessings and protection come from goodness and selflessness, coupled with generosity and loving-kindness. This is Metta. Buddha says there is nothing in all the dimensions of space and time that is not born first of your mind. And Yant Metta starts with the mind and thoughts first, of which actions follow. Like a mirror, it reflects back at you what you think, and eventually what you throw into the world. And if what you give is dark, selfish and cruel, then how can the Sak Yant be true to its intention? It can’t. These beliefs are things even a simpleton knows, but the practice is the greatest challenge, and undoubtedly we have all failed at some point, and are likely to fail again. We are vulnerable, but we are human, so we must learn to forgive ourselves, love ourselves, and try again to radiate this into our world, unwaveringly. There is not enough carbon space in this discussion to scratch the surface of Thai Buddhism and Sak Yant; this is the first of many layers to uncover and the education is far from over. But we are wholeheartedly welcomed into this philosophy, and it was a beautiful snapshot of a way of life, indeed. So yeah…that happened.

5


Yoga Studio Aonang & Krabi town

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Sabai Residence

Connecting Krabi Tour

NOPPHARAT THARA PIER, BOATS TO KOH LANTA, KOH PHI PHI, PHUKET

HOLD ME CLOSE Tsunami Memorial Sculpture

NATIONAL PARK

TO KLONG MUANG

ST.AGNES CHURCH

Mandawee

Ayudhya Suites

ts

Sabai Resort

I8

SO

Ao Nang Bay

Wangsai Seafood

TOURIST POLICE

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

Luna Bar

iss

a Ch

let

Mercure

Sw

Lazy Pub

The Hiltop Restaurant

Thai Village Resort

CENTER POINT

PhuPimaan Resort

Spaghetti House

Cleopatra Restaurant

TJ’s Sports Bar & Starbucks P.U.S.H Fitness Center

McDonalds

Boat tickets

The L Resort

Boat tickets

n rma she t Fi a fe’ s C a t L Las The The

Ao Nang Villa

Krabi Heritage Resort

Peace Laguna Resort

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

BEACH ROAD

Entertainment Bamboo Restaurants Ao Nang Community Church Somkiet Buri Resort Taj Palace

Vogue Pranang

il

Centara Resort

Centara 2

AO NAMMAO PIER

KRABI AQUARIUM

TO SHELL FOSSIL

WEDNESDAY SATURDAY MARKET

TO KRABI TOWN

BOATS TO PHRANANG KRABI & RAILAY BEACH

AO NAMMAO VILLAGE

Ao Nang Mountain View

Vipa Resort

U&P Bakery

@AoNang Villas

Jungle Village

AO NANG SCHOOL

TO KRABI TOWN

MONDAY-TUESDAY FRIDAY MARKET

Spa korn l & Tour e saba Boos ang Trav Ao N

ev Red D

TON Company

Ao Nang Haven GH Ao Nang Paradise Resort Chandee Buffet

Smiling Dog Cafe’

Lai Thai Apartments

SOI 13

The Massaman

The Earth Cafe The Dive

Boat

le R Nood

rant estau

Emerald GYM Muay Thai Center

German Beer Gardern

Krabi Apartments

Glur Hostel

Pams Pub

1

I1

SO

Ao Nang Cliff Beach Resort

BOATS TO PHRANANG & RAILAY BEACH

The Longtail Boat

DAILY MARKET

Montessori Tattoo International de cafe' School Just Deli Alongkorn Language School

Krabi Consultants

Ao Nang Mosque

AO NANG VILLAGE

Fullmoon House

POST OFFICE

The Art of Yoga Ao Nang Whisky

Oceanmart t sor t Re SK Optik ng auran a Bernies N Krabi t Ao Res Resort n CENTER POINT Ba Luna Beach La Irish Rover Terrace

NIGHT FOOD STALLS

Lae Lay Grill AONANG Restaurant VIEWPOINT La Playa Resort

Baan Bandaley Krabi Spesialisten Carnivore Steakhouse AO NANG Centara Bussaba Thai Restaurant BOXING STADIUM

Palm Paradise Emerald Gardens ChaWan Resort Pavilion Queen's Bay

SATURDAY MARKET

Klong Haeng Mosque

Bergers

Cobra Show

SupsaengDao Resort

THURSDAY MARKET

KLONG HAENG VILLAGE

WALKING STREET MARKET ON WEDNESDAY

Ao Nang Gardens

Nadivan Apartm a en

Kitdee Media & Krabi Magazine

CTOP Nice Nature Homes Nice Day Resort

Tattoo de Café

Boat Restaurant

TO KRABI TOWN

Burger King

atin picy Garden

Ben Beach Bar

Aning Restaurant Ao Nang Beach Resort

TO KLONG MUANG

Hippy Bar

Azzurra Restaurant Jeanette's Restaurant


Suzie Hall’s guide to

Good Eating Recently, I have seriously considered designing a F.A.Q t-shirt for the benefit of all the people I meet on a professional and personal level. As a personal trainer the ‘million dollar’ question I get asked with regular vigour is; What should I eat?

M

y outlook on nutrition has always been one of balance, if you pig out and have a treat (or two) or heavy night, endeavour to eat and drink well the next day. A good depiction of this is the 80/20 rule.

Eat well Monday to Friday and relax at the weekends with the pizza and red wine you have been fantasising about since Monday. Visitors to Thailand eating predominantly in restaurants can find it hard to focus on healthy eating, especially as sugar and salt is added to everything you eat and drink! It is a country famous for its delicious cuisine, which mistakenly tourists only consider to be Green Curry and Phad Thai.

Through my own experience and frustration of not having steamed or raw veggies I have found a way to eat very well here. I visit the local markets twice a week stocking up on fruits, vegetables and a ton of coriander, which is great with tuna in a salad. I get tinned fish for my omega 6 and nuts for my omega 3. An apple everyday, yogurts for a snack attack and porridge with honey for breakie (I also have a stash of Marmite, for my bread and butter days)

Local meals include steamed rice, a watery curry with vegetables or meat, smoked fish and eggs. No heavy coconut cream and oils.

There is also a vast assortment of dishes you can try in Thailand that are light and nutritious. These are some of my favourites;

Som Tam Made with unripe papayas mixed with string beans, tomatoes and chillies. All of these are thrashed together using a pestle and mortar with garlic, lemon juice and fish sauce. (Pet or Mai pet is up to you) Yam Mamuoang is similar but made with sour mango, one to try.

Eat it!

Laab Minced chicken, pork, beef or duck mixed with chilli, coriander and garlic served with sticky rice and som tam. Simple, healthy and tasty!

Be adventurous with your meal choices, try the variety of scrumptious Thai food available and eat it spicy! In a country that is obsessed with eating, their greeting basically asks not how you are, but have you eaten? It would be a shame not to…

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Snacks

1. Apples, lycees and magosteen from the market 2. Nuts: Almonds are great, also groundnuts and broad beans

(available at 7/11)

3. Yogurts (plain as possible) 4. Wasabi peas 5. Fruit shake (no sugar in Thai: mai naam-dtaan ka/krap) 6. Boiled eggs from 7/11

Tom Yam Goong

Fact! Chilli has an enormous number of health benefits, including boosting metabolism and lowering blood pressure

A staple of mine! You cannot beat the hot, spicy soup and kick-ass health properties of ginger, chilli and lemongrass. Have it spicy with prawns or pork, a side of rice and ride the ‘chilli train’!

Khanom Jeen

This is a simple breakfast/ lunchtime meal of rice noodles topped with a curry sauce that varies from sweet to ‘blind you spicy’. It’s served with a variety of leafy herbs & green vegetables like cucumber, long beans and raw eggplant, and you can also add a boiled egg and some picked veggies. The idea is ’add all you want’ to your dish, seconds and thirds, just pack yourself full of good, green, happy foods.

57


Frog & Catfish

You may already have noticed that Krabi has some pretty amazing places to eat. Lucky for you, chances are you’ve yet to sample the best of the best. We track down the Trip Advisor Number 1 restaurant in Krabi and re-discover authentic Thai food with true hospitality

W

e are in a country that loves food. It’s everywhere. You can’t swing any form of furry quadruped without smacking a fried chicken lady or som tam woman around the chops. So it may be somewhat of a challenge to open a restaurant that deals exclusively in Thai fare, wouldn’t you think? Yes, you would. With so much competition around, there should be a few “must haves” in order to make a Baht or two. Great location with passing trade. Lots of tables for lots of customers. A wide variety of food - Thai and Western. Add to this the odd fire show for the “oooh” factor, free drinks and a wide-screen TV and you might just be in with a chance. So it may come as a surprise that one place has decided to forgo all of these entirely. It’s hardly close to the center of activity and only accessible by car, it has less than 10 tables, zero fire shows and a menu that deals exclusively in Thai food. They hardly even advertise (except this fine publication, naturally) instead relying on word of mouth mostly to tell they world they exist. So who are they?

58

Gary and Bua are the owners and creators of the Frog & Catfish. Gary hails from Liverpool in the UK and brings with him the genuine, down-to-Earth hospitality they are known for in his part of the world. He was a successful financial advisor for many years before taking early retirement and settling in Thailand. (He was actually ranked as one of the top 5 financial planners in the world, as it happens. So there you go.) It was here he met his wife Bua - a dynamo of a woman if ever there was one. Bua cannot seem to sit still for more than 15 seconds at a time, and it’s understandable to realise that it was she who built the place from the ground up. I say “understandable”, but it’s almost unbelievable when you see what she has done. Every solid table and chair was hand-built by her and her team. The salas and shelters that nestle around the fishponds are her work. Heck, even the ponds themselves where dug and filled by her own 2 hands. Bua comes from a family that deals in timber and furniture, so she has been crafting from wood since she can remember. Gary told us that, unlike a lot of women who may have an envious collection of handbags - Bua has a thing for power tools. The pair of them are so laid back their nearly horizontal.

Gary & Bua

We took our place at a beautiful shaded area and soon the food began to arrive. Yes, it’s Thai food, Jim, but not as we know it. Forget about your greasy spring rolls and stodgy Phad Thais here. We were presented with raw vegetable spring rolls with herbs that were - and a use this word sparingly - devine. Next to these came fresh jumbo prawn tempura, piping hot, crunchy and wrapped in a banana leaf, all served with a 7 herb dip.


Starting to get the picture? Bua, again, has her hand at the helm of the kitchen and has taken the ancient recipes of Thailand and given them her own twist. The freshest ingredients known to mankind are used and sourced locally. The fish here is to die for. Literally. When I’m eating here, approach me from the front, slowly and with no sudden moves or woe betide you. Their fish is organically raised and prepared in ways that will make you weep for your mama. In fact, we brought my own parents here over Christmas and my Mother had an almost spiritual experience with her dinner. Crispy fried catfish on a bed of lemongrass and a cashew nut and chilli dip came next and we were not even at the main course yet. Repeat after me You will not go hungry here. After cleansing our palates with a(nother) cold beer, the main event arrived. Try to imagine what a crispy fried tub tim covered with boraan sauce looks like - and you’d be wrong. A crispy fried what with what sauce? Exactly.

A whole fish fried to perfection with a mound of “old style” sauce is a sight to behold. This is an old Thai recipe handed down for generations and the Frog & Catfish is the only place I have come across that serves it. Shredded unripe mango with spring onions, chili and secret other things all come together to make one killer combination that is not as spicy as you might think. My Mum devoured hers leaving only bones, and she’s not one for the chilli. It’s downright scrumptious and an absolute must-try. No arguments. Other points of note include grilled duck in red curry that almost had my Father moving in there. Of course, they also offer the usual favourites like green curry, fried rice and Phad Thai, so there is something for everyone. They even have a selection of Western food, including fish & chips and steaks if that’s your thing, but the Thai food is the star of the show. I could go on about the whole menu but there’s really no point. It’s handsdown the best Thai food you can get. The fact that many of the 5-star resorts here are sending their head chefs over to eat here should be all the testament you need. They have heard about the quality of food from their guests and had to check it out for themselves.

The food is A1, the surroundings are amid a tropical garden with gurgling water ponds and fine wooden furniture. Jazz music plays and a faint breeze cools the air. A wooden bar serves English beer and a pool table sits in the corner. A library of 2500 books is available and - oh did I mention the pool? Yes, they even have a swimming pool for guests to use gratis. As they are open from lunchtime onwards, some come for a languid afternoon of nothingness which has them staying for more. If you really can’t tear yourself away, then you are welcome to stay in one of the 3 new bungalows built - yes, by Bua - that are available for rent. With a choice of full-English, continental or Thai breakfasts to look forward to in the mornings, don’t plan on doing an awful lot while you stay here. Lounging, sprawling and vegetating would top my “to do” list - but they can help you get out and about on trips, tours and the like by organising anything you want. After our feast, we couldn’t even manage the home-made cheesecake that has been hailed as legendary - and that’s coming from me. I’m ashamed to even put this in print, but there it is. Bottom line is - you have to eat here. Don’t take my word for it either, just Google them and see for yourself what they do. True, they aren’t in the middle of “things”, but a mere 25 minute drive from the centre of Ao Nang. They can even arrange a taxi to collect you and bring you back to your hotel. A trip to Krabi would not be complete without an evening spent at the Frog & Catfish. Just remember to come hungry….

Contact: +66 (0)75 644 436 and +66 (0)847 730 301 info@frogandcatfishkrabi.com www.frogandcatfishkrabi.com

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ART

YOU GLAD YOU LIVE HERE?

I

f you thought there was already enough bewilderment in Krabi, think again. The dawn of a new artistic epicenter in Thailand has begun its rise, and it sets its sights in our beautiful province. This year, Thailand was the honored host – for the first time - of the 27th Annual Asian Art Exhibition, where 40 artists from 20 countries in Asia were invited to create unique pieces inspired by the natural wonders of Krabi province.

their focus on drawing more artists and attention to Krabi province in the coming years, in hopes of making Krabi a burgeoning center of creativity. But the event also marks the developing kinships with other Asian countries, as artists joined together to connect and share cultures through their work. And as the artists return home, the pieces created will act as ambassadors for Thailand in their home countries.

The event kicked off in January at the Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf and Spa Resort, where artists toured island clusters, jungles and mangroves, and the Emerald Pools to then develop works in a variety of mediums. During the weeklong event, workshops were also held to foster the exchange of ideas, watch live works and also mentor young interns. Guests were invited to freely drop in on workshops and live works during the week.

Thailand represented 20 artists of the 40, along with many other high profile Asian artists. There was even a strong presence of female artists representing Pakistan, the Philippine Islands, Iran and Afghanistan.

In the opening remarks of the kick off dinner, the Ministry of Culture (MOC) emphasized

The MOC is planning additional events such as this one to take place in 2013. These include more exhibits, live works of paintings, sculptures, and other mediums, and possibly a sand castle competition. That last one is included in the sculpture category I suppose but it was worth specifically mentioning, as we are at the beach.

All pieces created during this event will be available for viewing at the Rajadamnern Contemporary Art Center in Bangkok until March 22, 2013. Additionally, famous works from the artists themselves have been brought along to be included in the tour. Admission is free and also includes handson activities for children and older children adults alike. The pieces will then move on to Chiang Mai and eventually tour all of Asia, so we encourage you to take a gander if you’re in Bangkok.


Ban Klong Muang

Klong Muang

Hong Naak Cape

The princess’ Residence

Siew Bay

Klong Muang Plaza

Natin Spicy Garden

Klong Son Temple

Cobra Show

4203

Ao Nang Villa

Soi 1

Nathai Resort

Railay

Long Tail Boats to Railay

Pakasai Resort

Post Office Full Moon

Krabi Thai Village

Klong Heang

TUP ISLAND CHICKEN ISLAND

PODA ISLAND

Ao Nang

4202

Ban Chong Pli

KITDEE MEDIA&DESIGN

Ban Chong Pli School

Long Tail Boats to Railay

Passenger Por Port of Ao Nang o Phi Phi, Lan ta, Phuket Phuket Boats tto Lanta,

Long Beach

Elephant Camp

Ban Klong Son

Nong Thale School

Tharue

Rd.

ar ad

Rd .

Rd .

Thara

Police stat

Kaew grovaram temple

Hemthanon Rd.

Ut ta ra kit

Krabi hospital

Ao Nammao Bay

Gastropod Fossil Susaan Hoi - Shell Cemetry

M ah

4

TO: BigC, Tesco Lotus, Krabi Airport

Morning Market

Bus Station

Huay Toh Waterfall

Boats to Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, Koh Jum Passenger Port of Krabi

Treansport Department Labour Department Krabi Immigration

Ban Leam Pho

Saitai Canooeing

Thip Residence

Long Tail Boats to Railay

town, Ao Nammao Long Tail Boats to Krabi to

4203

Mosque

Law L.Y.G Construction

Ban Ao Nammao

4204

Ban Nammao School

Marina Yoga

4034

i ha ai T nS Ba

Ananda Pools Desjoyaux Pools

Sai Tai Temple Thanee Krabi Cart

4200

. Rd

@Sea Condo

Nakamanda Resort & Spa

The Pelican

The Krabi Sands Resort

Sofitel Phokeethra Resort & Spa

Elephant Camp

Elephant Camp

Villa Rattana

Ban Nong Thale

4034

Nong Thale River Residence

Frog & Catfish Restaurant

4033

ah

Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort

Sabai Ba Bar

The Beach House Restaurant

Klong Muang Beach

Pong Cape

Ban Tup Kaek

Hong Nak Nature Reserve

Hang Nak Nature Hike

Khao Thong

4

M

KOH HONG ISLAND

Tup Kaek Bay Beach Phulay A Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Anyavee Tubkaek Beach Resort The Tup Kaak Tup Kaek Sunset Beach Resort

Amari Vogue Resort

Khaothong Terrace

TO: Phuket

ad ar

.

ad

akit Rd

Nathai Ro

Uttar



Koh Lanta highlights Koh Lanta is situated at the southernmost tip of the Krabi province.

I

t consists of two islands, Koh Lanta Noi and Koh Lanta Yai. Koh Lanta Noi is the smaller of the two and does not have tourist facilities. Visitors travelling by road from the mainland pass through the smaller island on the way to Koh Lanta Yai - the center of the tourist operations. Ban Sala Dan village on the north side of the island is Lanta Yai’s commercial center and the pier where visitors arrive on the island. It is a row of shops, seafood restaurants on stilts, dive shops, tour operators, banks and guest houses that cater for newcomers on the island. The bulk of the Lanta beaches lie along the west coast of the island and can all be reached by road: Khao Kwang, Khlong Dao and Phra Ae all have long stretches of white sand facing the Andaman sea, while Khlong Khong, Khlong Nin and Ba Kan Tiang and other smaller bays are all nice to relax and swim.

T

he east coast of Koh Lanta Yai is flat and has many local villages scattered along its coastline. Koh Lanta has a very diverse cultural mix of people who have lived on the island in harmony for hundreds of years: Thai-Muslim, Thai-Chinese and the original sea gypsies still inhabit the place in harmony. The biggest town on the island is Lanta Old town. Boat trips to Koh Lanta are available during the monsoon-free period from October to April. May to November sees the closure of some of the island businesses and of the boat passenger services due to rough seas. A minibus service is the alternative way to reach the island via land. Lanta Old Town It was once called Ban Si Raya and was the commercial port for Chinese and Arabic trading boats that sailed between the ports of Phuket, Penang and Singapore. Today it is a village with a few rows of stilted shop houses home to an ancient community that was established on the island long ago. It is a picturesque place with Chinese timer shop-houses dating back 100 years, from the old days of sea trading. Near the shacks along the coast, local

fishermen dock their longtail boats giving the whole scene a very Thai look. Ba Kantiang Beach Spectacular crystal–clear seawater and soft white sand, romantic sunsets in utmost privacy. This is why Ba Kantiang has come to symbolize a hideaway in Lanta for relaxing in natural surroundings. Lighthouse on Lanta Located in Tanod Cape on the southernmost tip of the island, the lighthouse tower of Lanta is the perfect symbol of solitude. It is the place where immaculate nature still survives as it is rarely reached by tourists due to the rugged road conditions. Koh Lanta National Park The park covers a marine area dotted with several small sandy islands surrounded by coral reefs. The headquarters is located on the island’s southern extremity. Ban San-ka-u A sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional Chao Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-developing island. Eco-tours These are run all year round from the east coast of Lanta Yai, not affected by the low season rough seas. Make your way to Thung Yee Pheng village for a trip with a local community, or book a tour with friendly and experienced local companies. Nature Because of its bio-diversity and richness of natural resources, Lanta is a good place for trekking. Explore limestone cave chambers and passageways in the Lanta caves, or walk upstream to the spring water waterfall where you can swim in cool rock pools. Fire Dancing This is definitely one interesting part of the Lanta beach culture. A fire dancing show is usually performed by young boys performing twisting acrobatics swinging burning torches and ropes lit on fire around their muscular bodies. A distinguishing show that sparkles in the dark.


What to do? Scuba Diving & Snorkelling

Y

ou do realise that you are in one of the best locations in Thailand and beyond for diving, don’t you? Yes? If you did - good for you! If you already have your certification or never tried it in your life - you’re in luck. There are no fewer than 19 dive operators on Koh Lanta and most of them - if not all - will be qualified to take first-timers out for a fully supervised scuba dive. Trust me, as a diver myself - you won’t regret it! Dive sites nearby include the worldfamous Phi Phi islands as well as the Koh Haa archipelago - all of which are within easy reach. The price you pay will generally include all equipment rental, lunch, fruits and drinking water and as a bonus, the dive sites and boats will be much quieter at this time of the year. A lot of the dive operators speak a variety of European languages, so there’s a good chance you can get an instructor that quite literally - speaks your language. Check out our diving section “Into the Blue” for more information. If you’re dead set on staying well and truly within reach of the water’s surface, then no problems at all. Snorkelling is the way forward and many of the dive boats also welcome snorkellers on board as well as divers. This is great for families

with children, where some members want to dive and others snorkel. Usually the operators will provide the masks, snorkels and fins, as well as a dedicated staff member to guide the snorkellers in the water.

Thai Cookery Thai food in the west is generally quite expensive, creamy and “toned down” in comparison to what you find in this country. Here, in contrast, it’s very cheap, plentiful and packs much more of a punch. Learning to cook authentic Thai food in Thailand is about as good as it gets, and many of the kitchens are open-air or even

on the beach front - just to add to the experience. Classes are a great way to spend a morning or afternoon if the weather is a little wet for other outdoor activities, and you get to eat everything you make too - so you don’t have to worry about what’s for lunch!

Rent a Moped and Explore Mopeds are everywhere in Thailand, and Lanta is no exception. They’re cheap, easy to operate and are hard wearing - judging by the state of some I’ve come across that are held together with string and a prayer… In Saladan you can hire them absolutely everywhere. You might have to leave your passport with the rental agency, but don’t worry - this is standard practice. Everyone does it. It’s an insurance for them that you’ll bring the bike back, is all. As tempting as it might be (and it is!) to

roar off into the sunset, laughing madly with the wind in your hair - don’t. Those that do often round a bend, collide with a passing goat and end up in a sobbing mess in the local clinic. Wear a helmet. That’s all. Simple, yet effective at prolonging your holiday to the last day Bike fuelled and helmets on, the roads are yours to explore. Head south out of Saladan and you will discover another side of Lanta that is very different to the bars and restaurants of the north. Isolated beaches, rockier roads and local residents are all here, and the feeling you are stepping back in time is overwhelming. You will come across a junction after a while, with a right turn towards Klong Nin. This is filled with smaller beach-bungalowtype places to stay and similar bars & restaurants to match. Expect to find locals lounging in hammocks strumming guitars and sipping cold beers. This is a good indication of how they do things here… If you don’t take that right turn, the road will turn into a winding, twisting hilly serpent that leads you to the east of the island, where the “sea gypsy” people have lived for 500 years. This is a very interesting part of the island, but visitors here should respect the privacy of these “Chao Ley” people and remember they are not a tourist attraction. That aside, they are a warm and welcoming people and are fascinating to experience. Remember to take a map with you just in case, and keep your eyes open for the “gasoline shacks” that dot the roadsides, just in case. Watch the fuel gage and you’ll be fine. Biking around Lanta is the best way to truly explore all it’s nooks and crannies, and you might even come across a few surprises along the way….

Have a Massage If the thought of even standing upright is just to much - congratulations: you have successfully integrated into the Lanta way of life. If you have reached this point in your stay here, then it’s time for a massage.


What to do? Koh Lanta Only in Thailand can you engage in an “activity” while lying perfectly still for a hour. I love this country… If you have never had a Thai massage, you’re in for a treat. Unlike the more traditional notion of a massage, the Thai version does not use soothing strokes as it rubs scented oils into your tired body. Oh no. It uses a

“pressure point” method that means lots of hard pressing, twisting, cracking of joints and squealing. That last part is usually from me. But it’s not anywhere as bad as it might sound - otherwise n one would do it. It’s invigorating and totally relaxing all at once, and after a hour of this, you feel like you’ve had a great workout and your body will be rid of any niggling aches and pains - I guarantee it. You can have it as hard or soft as you like and your masseuse will usually ask you if the pressure she is using is ok for you, and will adjust accordingly. Probably one of the best things about getting a Thai massage in Thailand is it’s availability to everyone on any budget. You can choose to luxuriate in one of the breathtaking spas that Lanta has on her shores, or you can find a small massage hut somewhere. While the surroundings will not be on par with the spa’s, you can still get a great massage for a couple of hundred Baht, which can’t be argued with.

LANTAwww.lantaluxuryvillas.com LUXURY VILLAS Private houses and apartments for rent

Owners: list your property free of charge


NEED HELP ON LANTA? Tourist Police - 1155 Police - 075 668 192 Lanta Hospital - 075 697 176 Dr. Salarin - 075 684 522 Clinic in Saladan - 075 668 170

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NEED HELP ON LANTA? Tourist Police - 1155 Police - 075 668 192 Lanta Hospital - 075 697 176 Dr. Salarin - 075 684 522 Clinic in Saladan - 075 668 170

Minivans to Krabi/Phuket Congrit Resto

Everything Shop Ancient Realm Resort & Spa

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Time for Lime

Cooking School & Restaurant Holiday Villa Lanta Resort Lanta Sand Resort Funky Fish Indo Furniture Lanta Palm Beach

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BUS TIMETABLE: to Krabi every hour 6am to 5pm to Trang every hour 8am to 3pm to Phuket every hour 7am to 4pm MARKETS: Ban Saladan Sunday mornings Lanta Old Town Monday mornings Klong Nin Saturday mornings NEED HELP ON LANTA? Tourist Police - 1155 Police - 075 668 192 Lanta Hospital - 075 697 176 Dr. Salarin - 075 684 522 Clinic in Saladan - 075 668 170


WINNER 2009-2011


Nectar of

Angels

M

ost of the 72,926 days in a Krabi Magazine employee’s year consist of writing, untangling ethernet cables, swearing, cleaning lenses, unblocking toilets and making coffee. Lots of coffee. Lots and lots of coffee. But now and again, when the winds begin to change and the stars align in some odd celestial game of tic tac toe, something happens to redress the balance. This time it came as an email from Franck De Lestapis, the GM of Pimalai Resort & Spa on Koh Lanta. He comes from the Bordeaux region in France and the last time we met it was at a dinner in his restaurant catered by his 2 old buddies who just happened to be Michelin-starred chefs. This time, another of his pals was visiting. It turns out that he’s the owner of “Château Angélus”, a particular winemaker of note back in France, and he was hosting a special tasting evening of his wares. Would we like to come? After some lengthy discussion on if we could manage it or not, we cancelled the wedding, gave away the dog, left the

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parents standing at the airport and were soon settling into the pool villa at the aforementioned Pimalai on Lanta. Sorry Mum.

“...When we learned that these bottles had fetched 1000 Euros each, it make me feel like a very spoiled little king. ..” The evening was limited to a maximum of 30 seats and a hefty percent of the

proceeds from the evening were to go to help one of the local schools on the island - something that Franck and Pimalai are very actively involved in and have donated proceeds of similar events to the local community. We were especially honoured to be seated next to the man himself, Mr. Hubert de Boüard, who is the 7th generation of his family to be making wines in the same area of France. This area just happens to be 3km away from where the legendary Château Petrus comes from. Things were looking up.


Judging by the forest of glasses on the table in front of us, we were in for a treat of epic proportions. I was glad I brought the paracetamol. The evening was to be a 5 course meal that 6 of his finest wines were to be paired with. When the BBQ pork belly with spiced lentils, almond juice, pomegranate reduction and carrot froth appeared - I sensed this was to be no “spaghetti bolognese and house plonk” evening. The 6 year-old red that accompanied it pushed that home. The 12 year-old that followed it blew the 6 year old away. Sorry 6. Bar’s been raised now. See you in a decade. The evening took a fairly predictable course after this, with some stunning food from the Seven Seas Restaurant blending impeccably with the wines from Château Angélus - right up until dessert that was accompanied with a 1995 vintage that was the last left anywhere in the world - except Monsieur de Boüard’s home cellar. When we learned that these bottles had fetched 1000 Euros each, it make me feel like a very spoiled little king. I would never in a million years ordinarily get the chance to drink a glass of wine such as this, and I appreciated every drop. I also appreciated the leftover drops of others who apparently missed the part of it being the last in the world. Well, at 50 Euros a mouthful I leave my dignity bound and gagged in the basement, thank you very much. The wine was spectacularly good, the food the same, and I’m happy to say that Mr. Hubert himself is a fine, down to Earth guy. We had a spiffing time and once again, Franck at Pimalai Resort & Spa managed to pull of yet another classy, elegant and downright fun evening with the help of his friends. I can’t wait to see what he has his sleeve next. Check out www.pimalai.com to see what all the fuss is about….

DID YOU KNOW....

Our profits are donated to the charity LANTA ANIMAL WELFARE So.. come Learn, Eat & Drink your hearts out! AND FEEL GOOD

up

Cooking School thai & fusion Restaurant Beach Bar

Fun & Professional evening Cooking Classes on the Beach Front

HAPPY HOURS 3 - 6 pm On our FAMOUS Cocktails

FANTASTIC 6 dish Tasting Menu that changes every evening

Bungalows

8 cozy air-con & fan

9 years with Quality & Funky Atmosphere Closed Mondays

KLONG DAO BEACH - KO LANTA Tel: 075 684 590 www.timeforlime.net


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Eating Guide koh lanta Seven Seas Wine Bar & Restaurant @ Pimalai Resort & Spa 99 Moo 5, Ba Kan Tiang Beach. Head south, turn right at the Klong Nin junction and keep going. A truly stunning place that demands you stand slack-jawed as you walk into it. Open-plan everywhere - even the kitchen - with some of the best views you can hope to witness whilst enjoying your meal. Their chef is a talent to behold, and the food from the kitchens here is top-notch indeed. The restaurant and its show kitchen offer a comprehensive “a la carte” fusion style dinner menu which means that superior ingredients from all over the globe are marinated, cooked and served together on the same plate - generating a symphony of flavours. The presentation of the food is beautiful and it’s a feast for the eyes even before you pick up your fork. A wide-ranging collection of international wines has been assembled from which you can select an ideal accompaniment to your meal.

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The Boeuf Charolais Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 6:30am - 10:30am & 3pm - 11pm Tel: +66 (0) 75 607 999 Website: www.pimalai.com

Tides Restaurant @ Layana Resort & Spa

272 Moo 3 Saladan, Phra-Ae Beach, Ko Lanta. Head South and look for the sign on the right side. A formal restaurant perched on the very edge of the beach overlooking the sea and open to the cooling sea breezes. Guests have the choice of a cool interior venue or an al fresco beachside setting on the deck in front of the restaurant. Serving a mouth-watering a la carte selection of international dishes, as well as traditional Thai fare and seafood specialties all made from the freshest of ingredients. The chef, Khun Apichai, grows his own herbs in a beautiful garden right on the premises and the presentation of his food is straight out of a Monet. The menu quality is matched by an extensive wine list to compliment the food perfectly.

Average price: 400-900++THB What to Try: The Healthy Spa Cuisine Menu Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 6:30am - 10:30am & 11:30am - 6pm Tel: + 66 (0) 75 607 100 Website: www.layanaresort.com

Time for Lime - Fusion Restaurant

72/2 Moo 3, Saladan, Koh Lanta 81150. Head South and look for the sign .

This place has been one of the best little places on Koh Lanta since it opened it’s doors 7.5 years ago. Owned by Junie, a Norwegian who loves animals as much as her food, Time For Lime has become a haven for those who want to indulge in both of her passions. Her workshops in Thai cookery are legendary as she has a unique fusion style that differs from the usual Thai lessons you normally find. During her classes, expect to re-create dishes such as the signature Time for Lime soup, scampi wrapped in wild pepper leaves and even the wonderfully titled “sesame seed crusted barracuda balls with ginger on a bed of white radish & wasabi dip”. A great, friendly, laid back atmosphere is only accentuated by the jazz and chillout music that plays around the beachfront kitchen, and the homemade mojitos that come from here have been copied, but never matched.

Average price: 150 - 500 THB What to Try: The 6-dish tasting menu Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: 5pm - 10:30pm except Mondays Tel: +66 (0) 75684590 Website: www.timeforlime.net

Beachcomber Restaurant @ Lanta Castaway Resort 299 Moo 2 Phra Ae, Saladan, Koh Lanta,

If you’re searching for a laid-back, yet stylish beach-front dining experience , then Beachcomber is the place for you. The restaurant features a terrific menu selection and is best known for its authentic TEX-MEX dishes. You’ll also want to try the large selection of savory Thai, Western and Seafood BBQ dishes. The open-air restaurant is situated near the beach and there is also plenty of outdoor seating on the beach-front deck and in the garden. The atmosphere is relaxed, the staff is friendly, and the setting is beautiful with a lovely garden and a terrific view of Long Beach and the Andaman Sea. You’ll also want to enjoy a before and/or after dinner drink at our beach bar which serves up a wide variety of cocktails and delicious frozen drinks.

Average price: 250-350THB What to Try: The Tex-Mex food Free WiFi?: For bungalow guests only Opening Hours: Open daily from 7am - 9pm. Tel: +66 (0) 75684851 Website: www.lantacastaway.com

Crown Lanta Resort & Spa

315 Moo 1, Saladan, Koh Lanta Yai. Off the ferry, turn left at Salaldan junction and first right. Look for sign. This may not be known to you as many places on Koh Lanta are only discovered on the Internet or by following your nose down the hundreds of side streets that appear to go nowhere. It would be a mistake. The food here is not what you might expect from a resort. No touristy bland curries here, oh no. With a Thai chef that has been doing his thing since a child and a Thai GM that has worked in the Waldorf Astoria, you can expect great things from the kitchen here. Thai food with class and bursting with flavour is fused with European classics such as prime steaks and fresh seafood platters to satsfy the mose discerning and demanding palates. Start the evening with drinks and nibbles at the Crown Reggae Bar and head here for the main event with a spectacular view to boot.

Average price: 250++THB What to Try: Pan-fried sea bass and the steaks Free WiFi?: Yes Opening Hours: Open daily morning to night Tel: +66 (0) 7562 6999 Website: www.crownlanta.com


Crowning Glory

One of the Main drawbacks of living in Krabi is that it’s not Lanta. We like Koh Lanta a lot - it’s a great place that has a seemingly endless array of things to do, see, eat and stay at. We decided to up our collective sticks and take a trip over to see the Crown Lanta Resort & Spa, located on the northern tip of Lanta Yai. Lots of places on Lanta are very easy to miss, being located down a small soi, to the left a bit, up a small path and Whoop, there it is. I like this about the island as it lends itself an air of discovery and then isolation from the rest of the riff raff out there, which is what you want when on holiday. Bruce, the Aussie dude in my Garmin, was taking the day off for some reason, so we had to rely on our wits, guile and cunning to locate the resort. That and my wife. She’s the wits of the relationship. We also had the assistance of a large sign just as you start to head south from Saladan, which helps a lot. A couple of minutes later and Whoop - there it was. Ok, I’ll stop that now. It was a scorching hot day and the cold face towels and iced drink we received as we checked in were very welcome. A little golf cart came and took us and the 4 shipping containers of baby gear we travel with to our room, which was the best sight we had been subjected to all day. A large bed, large shower and large patio/outdoors part with sofa and table are all we want out of life and there they were, right in front of us. The view was stunning and we had an almost 180 degree vista of the horizon and a red glob of a sun just about to dip over the horizon. That can mean only one thing in my book...

Beer O’clock was replaced - quite welcomely - by cocktail hour as we wandered down to the “Crown Reggae Bar” for a sundowner and to meet the General Manager of the resort, Khun Vichit Somboonchoke. A better introduction I have yet to experience as there he was with a couple of comfy chairs, a waiter, a cocktail menu and a fire dancer in full swing - quite literally. We went for a couple of the house specials that included a “Reggae Lanta” - a combo of Roselle juice and Rum that was a first - but certainly not last - for me and perfectly crafted Mojito for Pam. To accompany our drinks we were offered


some home-made nibbles in the shape of roasted nuts and a selection of canapés to whet our appetites for the meal ahead. A nice touch and a refreshing change from the usual fare you find in a lot of places. The bar is a great idea and very well thought out. You can lounge right there on the sand with cleverly placed beach mats and lamps and have drinks brought right to your mat as you take in the fire show, listen to the great music and watch the lights of the squid boats start to twinkle on the horizon. Beats a lukewarm bottle of Leo in my kitchen any day. We moseyed on over to one of the restaurants and were introduced to the head chef who informed us he had a special meal prepared for us. A couple of cold glasses of very decent white wine arrived and we got to know Khun Vichit a little better. With a long background in hospitality management, Vichit has worked at such auspicious places as the Waldorf Astoria in New York before his current posting at Crown Lanta. He spend many years in the USA learning his craft and it really shows through. He strives for perfection and it began to show as the food started to land on our table. Wowee. A seafood platter that was a sight to behold came touching down and was perfect with our wine. Tom Yam Goong in a traditional earthenware pot followed and a pan fried sea bass with asparagus and crushed potatoes came next. To end with, an expertly crafted portion of mango and sticky rice left us stuffed with goodness that had us wishing we had skipped lunch. We had a look at the menu out of pure nosiness and there was a vast array of Thai and European food on offer that sounded as if they were of the same standard as what we were having. We trundled off back to our room and had one of the best nights sleep we have had in a long time, thanks to the king-sized bed and silent aircon. Always a wining combination in my book. It was a very pleasant surprise to come across the Crown Lanta Resort and Spa on an island where you can easily miss many great places. With cocktails, food and attention to details such as these, it won’t be long until we are packing the car for Lanta once again…


Koh Jum Island Plugged In but still unplugged Story by : Jeffrey Dietrich

K

oh Jum Island is still the quintessential destination in Krabi province if you are looking for authentic Thai village life and development that is still a small footprint on this tranquil island. Geography brought electricity to Koh Jum late in 2009 as the island was in the direct path of the new underwater electric cable connecting Koh Phi Phi from the mainland. So now that Koh Jum is plugged in, has it lost its reputable unplugged character that has attracted intrepid travelers over the past couple of decades? We are pleased to report that Koh Jum is as tranquil and laid back as it always has been. In fact, what is noticeable are the lack of noisy generators at most of the resorts. Folks come to Koh Jum to unplug; the island’s nature and culture still dominates the minimal tourist infrastructure. The

existing resorts on Koh Jum all have their own family run character ranging from the back packers paradise Bo Deng run by two laughing souls, Dila and Rosa, all the way up to the stunningly beautiful Koh Jum Beach Villas, an eco villa resort with exquisite villas tucked in an incredible botanical garden. Koh Pu Mountain is the dominant geological feature on the island at over 400 meters. A great hike for the adventurous and a vital refuge of native habitat still harbouring Asian Pied Hornbills and Burmese Pythons. The three villages, Koh Pu, Ting Rai and Koh Jum are situated on the back side of the island amongst the mangroves. Resorts are located facing the open Andaman Sea. This division allows the villages to remain authentic without any significant tourist infrastructure while

the resorts are all located on the beaches. Access to the island is by longtail taxi boats located on the mainland port town of Laem Kruat. There is now a songthaew you can take direct from Krabi Town to Laem Kruat. During the high season most visitors come to Koh Jum using the Krabi – Koh Lanta Ferry that stops at two locations on Koh Jum out at sea where long tail boats come out to meet passengers to take them ashore. The lack of any deep ports on the island keep the ferry boats out at sea and also prevent large masses of tourists from ever overcrowding the island. Getting here is an adventure and this ends up defining the interesting community of resorts and visitors that have made this island their home and the place they return to year after year.


Getting to Koh Jum Getting to Koh Jum can be very simple or a bit of a nightmare - all depending on how much you know about getting there. This is where we come in - we decided to make the journey ourselves and tell you exactly how and when to get there with the least amount of hassle. There are 2 ways you can get to Koh Jum by passing ferry or longtail boat. There are ferries that leave from Koh Lanta at 8am and Krabi at 11am, which will stop as they get alongside Koh Jum and longtail boats will come and take you the rest of the way. Koh Phi Phi also has ferries leaving at 2pm that operate on the same principle. The second way is to get to a place called Laem Kruat and take a longtail boat for 40 mins to the island, and this is what we decided to do. If you are driving, it takes about 1 hour to get from Ao Nang to Laem Kruat. You just head to Tesco and continue until you see the large overhead signs that tell you to turn right for “Koh Jam”. This road will

lead to to the small locality of Laem Kruat, where you will find a large pier. If you don’t have transport of your own, you can catch a blue and yellow “sawngthaew” the local bus that has benches in the back. It has the words “Krabi, Bus Station, Tesco, Big C, Laem Kruat” written on it, which is easy to spot. This will leave from all of these locations at intervals throughout the day and will take you to the pier. Now, the pier is a bit misleading. We waited at the end of the pier before realising the longail taxis were passing us by and docking at the mainland. We went back and followed our noses along past the shops until we saw a slipway with goods and people being unloaded. It was the second slipway we needed to get to “Moo Too”, the place on Koh Jum we were being collected from.

We got on and soon we were chugging along through the mangroves with a boat full of happy local Muslim women that looked as if they hadn’t changed a bit since 1925. We arrived at Koh Jum 45 minutes later, paid our 70 Baht fare each and were taken by “Taxi” (a battered old pickup truck) through the winding dirt track until we reached our destination resort Give it a go and you will see a different side of Thailand from years gone by - well worth the experience.

If you know the name of the pier on Jum you need to get to, just ask anyone in this area and they will direct you to the correct boat.

Koh Jum Koh Jum, also confusingly called by it’s other name of Koh Pu, is actually named after the 420 meter high mountain that dominates the horizon of the north part of the island. Located midway between Krabi and Koh Lanta Yai, 25 km from Krabi Town, Koh Jum is predominantly a large Muslim populated sub-district of Krabi and is home to 1,500 inhabitants that live in three tiny fishing villages. The locals of these villages engage mostly in fishing, rubber cultivation and the local craft of cloth weaving as cottage industries. While the north is mountainous, the south comprises dense jungle, cashew nut trees, rubber plantations, casuarinas and nipa-palms. The string of beaches on the west coast has several simple, wooden bungalow resorts and a community of private beach homes sitting among the palms, each offering sunset views over the silhouettes of the Koh Phi Phi archipelago. Koh Jum is ideal both for young travelers who want to rest their

bones after some hard backpacking and for families with kids, looking for a worry free holiday in a place where children can run and swim in complete safety. Nature is at your feet there, and if it’s serenity you’re after, you can’t go wrong. Electricity just arrived in Koh Jum only relatively recently and some smaller resorts are still powered by generator. Progress is imminent and already in motion as more resorts and restaurants look set to open up soon. Getting There There is a ferry terminal about 35 - 40km south of Krabi town, in a place called Laem Kruat, that can take you to the islands, the last one departs at around 3pm. It costs around 50 Baht per person. Another option is to take a ferry directly from Krabi or Koh Lanta. This might be an easier and more reliable option for most people. A new ferry service has started from/to Koh Phi Phi Islands. A short stop into your nearest travel agent will furnish you with the latest times and tickets for your journey. Contact the resort you wish to stay at for assistance with transportation.


New app

roundup Wibbley bip-bam-bop, it’s been another month of techie-minded nerdlings coming up with more ways for us to spend glued to our little black boxes. Emily once again scoured - quite literally - the Internet and harassed the friends she has left for info, tips and advice on what’s “cool”, “hip” and “with it” in the land of the so-called “App”. This is what she found...

Goodreads With a catalogue of over 300 million books and counting, users can rate and keep track of books they’ve read, and those they want to read. Goodreads can recommend future reads based on a user’s rating of other books. Users can also link social network platforms to see what their friends are reading, exchange recommendations, browse public lists, use the barcode scanning function to look up a book, or set a reminder for a future read. This is a truly awesome app/website for readers of any interest level.

Price

FREE

Devices

iDevices, Android, Windows, LG, Blackberry, Nokia, PC & e-readers

WedPics If you’re getting married, you’ve probably already hired a professional photographer. But what about all those pics your friends and family took? Wedpics allows them to upload their pics into one spot, sharing your special day through their eyes, and allows you to devote your stalking persistent follow-up skills to better things.

Price

FREE

Devices

iDevices, Android, Windows, LG, Blackberry, Nokia, Desktop

Scribble My Story Kids these days, huh? Here’s an app for your swipe-happy nuggets that’s sure to temporarily take their minds off Angry Birds something or another. Scribble My Story was made for primary school aged children and is actually used as a learning tool in some classrooms. It’s a book/art creation platform where kids can imagine a story or use a free story pack to create a book by drawing, incorporating audio, using stickers and applying backgrounds. Then, they can share what they make with you right then and there or email it to you. The intuitive interface can be used by groms as young as three.

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Price

Free, with in-app purchases

Devices

iDevices only at the moment


TAT Thailand Travel Apps The Thailand Tourism Authority has compiled 19 FREE Thailand-related travel apps for smartphones that we highly recommend checking out. Apps cater to various interests including spas, city guides, golf, Muay Thai, green/ecotourism, honeymooners, and medical tourism to name a few. Just go to http://mobile. tourismthailand.org/ and download away.

Price

FREE

Devices

iDevices, Android, Windows, LG, Blackberry, Nokia, Desktop

With thousands of destinations across Thailand!

Checkon.me Skyscanner Checkon.me is an app in response to the “If I’m not back in five minutes…” line. You can choose emergency contacts, and then set an alarm. When the alarm initiates, you must check in within a designated amount of time (that you set), otherwise the app alerts your contacts that you haven’t responded. There is also a panic button in case of unexpected danger. And if your phone gets turned off/runs out of battery, it will even tell your contacts the last known location of your phone. Great for travelling groups. Parental Advisory: The world has an abundant supply of teenage angst so please, tread carefully.

Price

FREE

Devices

Android, Windows Phone, LG, Nokia, Blackberry, Desktop

Crazy Taxi, Ski Safari, Temple Run My name is Emily, but I’d like to be Frank with you for a moment. It doesn’t matter what these games are about. If you like games, nothing will stop you from spending incessant amounts of time playing nonsense. Fun, highly addictive nonsense. I’ll let the high user ratings and download statistics speak for themselves.

Price

149THB, 99THB, FREE. (monetary value of time wasted not included)

Devices

iDevices, Android, Windows, LG, Blackberry, Nokia

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Baan Alessandra Modern tropical living at it’s best

Most Krabi pool villas are built in the contemporary Thai style, with pitched roofs, warm neutral colours, dark woods, and rich jeweltoned accents. This type of home has a wide appeal, as it combines a classic style with many visitors’ expectations of how a luxury Asian villa should look. But following on from trends in other Thai beach resort areas, such as Hua Hin and Phuket, Krabi is now starting to see some more modern architecture making an appearance. The three-bedroom three-bathroom Baan Alessandra in Nateen village, the latest addition to Krabi Riviera’s villa rental portfolio, is a great example of this modern tropical style. Krabi Riviera has been managing and renting pool villas in Krabi since 2001, and this – their fourteenth villa – represents a new departure for the firm. “We are not just increasing our portfolio in numbers,” says Pierre-Yves Loriers, the managing director, “but also in range. Baan Alessandra has a very clean, minimalist aesthetic, which is sure to please those who like modern architecture. This complements our more traditional and Thai-style villas and means we can offer vacation homes in Krabi for all tastes.” Baan Alessandra’s hip, flat roofed exterior is combined with polished bare concrete walls and full length windows to create a calm and soothing living space that maximizes natural light. All rooms open directly into the garden; sliding doors create a seamless fusion of indoor-outdoor space. Furniture has been kept to a minimum, with just a few statement pieces and the use of built in units, such as the white granite dining island, to avoid clutter. Even the garden, with its geometric walkways and planters and rectilinear swimming pool, exudes a sense of zen-like calm. “There are many people who appreciate this type of architecture, and

we are proud to be able to offer this property to them,” says Loriers. “Of course, guests can also expect our usual high standards in service and amenities, with driver, concierge on call and daily cleaning, as well as private chef and massage services on request. This is available in all our villas, regardless of style!”


Pesky Pests Although there are many different types of termites, they all have one thing in common: a voracious appetite for the cellulose found in lumber. Termites especially like to eat moist wood so it is very important to keep the house dry. Once termites are inside your home they’re harder to get rid of. The last thing you want to do is make their job easier. Follow these 2 steps to effective termite defence and make sure that your home doesn’t become their home:

Step 1:

Step 2:

It is essential for the termite controller to complete a thorough inspection of the buildings and surrounds. The property owner should be supplied with a written inspection report and detailed specifications for an integrated termite control program. It is essential that the inspection and report be received before any protective measures are commenced. A professional termite inspection and report, including a termite control protection advice costs vary depending on the size of the house and the style of construction and ease of inspection access.

Chemical soil treatment around the perimeter and subfloor of a building to eradicate termites attempting to gain entry into the building through a treated soil area. Monthly check-ups by your pest professional will make sure that your home remains termite-free for as long as you live there.

TERMITE PREVENTION TIPS • Don’t affix wooden trellises to exterior walls. • Keep mulch, wood debris, scrap lumber and sawdust away from your home. • Trim all shrubs, bushes and other dense greenery away from the foundation of your home. Move mulch away from the foundation as well. • Don’t bury wood debris near your home. • Remove infested trees and stumps. • Repair leaking faucets and water lines, both indoors and outdoors. • Fix leaky roofs and gutters. • Don’t allow leaves to accumulate in gutters and drains. • Grade soil so that water (including air conditioning condensate) runs away from foundations. • Ventilate crawl spaces and attics to reduce humidity. • Seal all cracks and holes in your home’s foundation, which may provide a handy access point for termites.


Nong Thale River Residence

Ao Nang Weather station www.aonangweather.com

Custom designed villas & holiday rentals

c i g a Live am magic life!

Experience the difference

Modern minimalistic Villa Ao Nang

Nong Thale River Residence l l l l l l l

www.nongthaleriverresidence.com

300

l

l

l

Quiet and spacious residential area Near Ao Nang beach and entertainment Krabi International Airport 25 kilometer Spacious plots 1100-1600m2 Custom built villas Quality materials Environment aware construction Project management and rental service Good accessibility for seniors Opportunity to experience on site before buying

350 m

4034 Krabi

4024 Klong Muang

Wat Klong Son

info@kamalot-ltd.com

+66 (0) 818940675

Kamalot

Co. Ltd. Land & Development

บริษัท กมล๊อต จำกัด


The Life of Buddha Prince Siddhartha Gotama was born in 623 BC. in the north of India (in an area which is in present-day Nepal). His father was King Suddhodana and his mother was Queen Maya. Seven days after Prince Siddhartha was born, Queen Maya passed away and the baby prince was then looked after by his aunt, Pajapati. He was a very intelligent and compassionate boy. At his naming ceremony, Brahmins predicted that he would either become a world leader or a Buddha (Great Teacher). Although he lived a luxurious life as a prince, he decided at the age of 29 to become an ascetic in search of a way leading to freedom from unsatisfactoriness (Dukkha). Leaving his wife and young son, he left the palace and practised Bhavana, mental development, for six years. He experimented with various spiritual practices and forms of meditation. Then on the full moon day of the Visakha month, when he was exactly 35 years old, he attained enlightenment and became the Buddha (The Enlightened One). For 45 years after his enlightenment, he established an order of monks and another of nuns. He gave 84,000 sermons, discussions and talks. His followers came from all social and economic classes. There was no restriction by sex, age or caste. The Buddha passed away at the age of 80, again at the time of the full moon in the month of Visakha. In Thailand the years are reckoned from the time of the Buddha. This predates the Christian calendar by 543 years. So, if in the West it is 2001 A.D., in Thailand it is 2544 B.E. Info from Student Weekly

THANEE ATTORNEY & COUNSELOR AT LAW

E-mail: info@thaneelaw.com www.thaneelaw.com

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- Legal advisory - Project management - Company formation - Work permits - Visa and immigration - Business contracts and licenses - Wills and testaments

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Путеводитель по

краби

ПЛЯЖИ Ао Нанг находится в 20-ти км от города Краби и является одним из самых развитых пляжей Краби, с белым песком и отвесными скалами. Ао Нанг предлагает широкий диапазон услуг для проживания и сервиса. На главной улице есть рестораны, бары, пабы, магазины сувениров, дайвинг-центры, туристические агентства, массаж и СПА центры. Ао Нанг является отправной точкой для путешествий на лодке по морю на близлежащие острова. Пляж Ноппаратара протяженностью 3 км. находится за пляжем Ао Нанг. Этот пляж все еще мало развит и имеет всего лишь несколько ресторанов и баров. Привлекательный, естественный вид пляжа собирает по выходным местную молодежь и их семьи насладиться закатом. Попробуйте местные мусульманские сладости в “макашницах”, которые расположены в конце пляжа. Также, насладитесь морепродуктами в местных ресторанчиках, которые находятся у офиса национального парка Ноппаратара. Во время отлива, пройдитесь по набережной, вместе с миллионами маленьких крабов, по песчаной косе до ближайших островов. Пляжи Рэйлэй разделены от Краби и Ао Нанга большими известняковыми горами. У полуострова Рэйлэй есть 2 стороны, Восточная и Западная, которые просто восхитительны: кристально чистая вода, песчаные пляжи, дикие горы, скалистые острова выступающие из моря. Рэйлэй находится в 15-ти минутах от АоНанга

и в 30-ти минутах от города Краби, вы сможете добраться до него только на лодке . Насладитесь коктейлем в одном из пляжных баров, посетите пещеру “Прананг” проверьте себя на курсах по скалолазанию, поднимитесь на вершину горы, и спуститесь в лагуну или просто расслабьтесь на пляже. Соседний пляж Тонсай “Tonsai” распалагается в основании скалы и разделяет Рэйлэй на Западную и Восточную часть. Это небольшой, красивый пляж с пологим дном. Пляж Клонг Муанг находится в 20-ти км. от Ао Нанга, и в 40 км от Краби. Это новое место с развивающейся инфраструктурой, в котором вы сможете провести великолепные выходные. Именно здесь вы получите незабываемый отдых, в окружении девственной природы. Пляж Туб Каек (Tubkaek) - это еще один чистый, спокойный пляж, в котором можно оставаться в дали от цивилизации. С него открывается потрясающий вид на архипелаг островов Хонг (Koh Hong) и очаровательные закаты. С пляжа, вы можете дойти до национального парка и подняться на вершину горы и посмотреть водопад. На пляжах Ко Ланты (Koh Lanta) огромное количество курортов на любой вкус и достаток. Остров Ланта Яй (Lаnta Yai) славится длинными, белыми, песчаными пляжами переходящими в изумрудное море. Гуляя, по южной части острова, вы можете наткнуться на уединенный райский уголок с высаженной тропической растительностью.

ПРИРОДНЫЕ ИСТОЧНИКИ Известняковые горы и отвесные скалы характеризуют местность Краби, а наиболее зрелищным и массивным является Сай Тай (Sai Tai). Не далеко от Ао Нанга (Ao Nang) есть уникальное геологическое место - Сюзан Хой (Susaan Hoi) “кладбище ракушек” . Плиты у побережья моря, напоминающие куски старого, потрескавшегося асфальта, на самом деле – плиты, спрессованные из остатков древних моллюсков, чей возраст более 40 млн. лет. Территория кладбища ракушек была в доисторические времена пресным болотом, на дне которого тысячелетиями накапливались ракушечные отложения. Впоследствии, болото пересохло, а останки его обитателей теперь виднеются на поверхности в виде песчаных плит 40-сантиметровой толщины. К кладбищу моллюсков примыкает живописный мангровый лес, в котором проложены специальные туристические тропы. Крупнейший природный парк провинции Краби Као Пханом Бенча (Khao Phanom Bencha), находится всего в 20 км. от города Краби. Этот Национальный парк является домом для множества редких растений и диких животных, среди которых леопарды, пантеры, тигры, тапиры и гиббоны. Гора Phanom Bencha (1350 м.) является территориальным и туристическим центром всего заповедника. С горы сбегает 5 водопадов, крупнейший из которых Хуай Тох (Huay Toh), расположен всего в 500 метрах от входа в парковую зону. Еще одной популярной туристической


карбоната кальция. Вода в пруд поступает из горячих источников и имеет в разных местах разную температуру от 25°С до 49°С градусов. Здесь можно поплавать, полежать и отдохнуть душой и телом. Термальный источник Хот Спрингс в Клонг Том (Hot Springs of Klong Thom) представляет из себя смесь водопада с парной под открытым небом. Вулканические горячие ключи нагревают поток до 30°С – 40°С, превращая водопад в естественную сауну, вода в которой, к тому же, насыщенна полезными минералами.

достопримечательностью заповедника является пещера Tham Khao Pheung, украшенная живописными сталактитами и сталагмитами. Национальный парк Тарнбок Корании (Tarnbok Khoranee) находится в северной части региона, состоит из известняковых гор, зеленых тропических лесов, пещер, и красивых островов. Хорошо известен различными видами деревьев, растущих вокруг большого природного кристально чистого бассейна, и более сотен видов птиц. Пещерный комплекс Пи Хуа Тох (Phi Hua Toh) расположенный в районе Бор Тора (Bor Thor), состоит из нескольких пещер, каждая из которых уникальна. В некоторые из них, вы можете попасть на лодке, только во время отлива. Здесь вы сможете полюбоваться потрясающей красоты сталактитами и сталагмитами, древнейшими наскальными рисунками и следами доисторических поселений. Са Маракот (Sa Morakot) изумрудный бассейн. Это чудо природы, пруд с бирюзовой водой, питаемый горячими источниками в центре джунглей. Берега пруда представляют собой желтоватый камень, такой цвет ему придают отложения

ОСТРОВА Отправьтесь на остров Ко Пода (Koh Poda), который покрыт пальмами и почти полностью окружен мягким белым песчаным пляжем. Коралловый риф находится примерно в 20 метрах от пляжа с богатым разнообразием морской жизни. Также, вы можете посетить соседний остров Ко Кай (Koh Kai) или “Куриный остров”, который получил свое название от необычной формы скалы с одного конца острова, которая выглядит как голова и шея страуса или курицы. Одна часть острова состоит из крутых скал, другая имеет красивые пляжи. Теплая и чистая вода острова с богатым миром кораллов является популярным местом среди любителей снорклинга и дайвинга. Оттуда можно прогуляться по песчаной косе до острова Ко Туб (Koh Tub). Можно взять тур на лодке или на катере до архипелага островов Ко Хонг. Это группа островов из известняка со скрытыми пещерами и лагунами, которая идеально подходит для каякинга и подводного плавания. Возьмите тур на острова Ко Пхи Пхи (Koh Phi Phi) с живописными морскими бухтами, окруженными потрясающими известняковыми скалами, устремленными в небо прямо из океанских глубин, в пещерах гнездятся ласточки, вокруг богатый подводный мир, насыщенный морской жизнью, и многое, многое другое. Посетите острова Ко Джам (Koh Jum) и Ко Сибойя (Koh Siboya) скрытые от глаз человека, наполненные тропической растительностью и уникальной природой. Эти острова дают посетителям возможность расслабиться и прекрасно провести время. Также посетите остров Ланта (Lanta) в южной части провинции, который сейчас активно развивается. Ланта также является домом для морских циган, где вы сможете увидеть их традиции и познакомиться с их укладом жизни. Национальный парк включает в себя много различных островов, окруженных коралловыми рифами, такие как Ко Нгай (Koh Ngai) и Ко Рок (Koh Rok). КУЛЬТУРА

Текс переведен и отредактирован: Шинарита Стоун

Бан Натин (Ban Natin) - это место находится по пути из Ао Нанга (Ao Nang) в Клонг Муанг (Klong Muang), где вы сможете увидеть мирную жизнь местной мусульманской общины. Вы можете приехать туда на несколько дней или просто остановиться и посмотреть на изделия ручной работы. Музей Ват Клонг Том (Wat Klong Thom) главный исторический музей провинции Краби. Доказательством того, что провинция Краби была одним из первых мест на карте современного Тайланда, где возникли человеческие поселения, служит этот музей. В нем выставлены различные артефакты, найденные во время археологических раскопок. Экспозиция музея включает в себя доисторические каменные и бронзовые орудия, образцы древней керамики, монеты, предметы прикладного искусства и старинные кровати, возраст которых превышает 5000 лет. Огненное шоу, это часть пляжной культуры и очень популярно в вечернее время суток на пляжах Ко Ланты (Koh Lanta) и Пхи Пхи (Phi Phi). Невероятная хореография, удивительный рисунок танца и множество завораживающих глаз моментов делают шоу с огнем просто незабываемым. Бан Санг-Ка-Ю (Ban Sang-Ka-U) место проживания “морских циган” на юговостоке острова Ланта Яй (Lanta Yai). Именно там живет старый клан В-Лей (v Ley) пытающийся сохранить исчезающий образ жизни в этой быстро развивающейся части острова. ГОРОД Очаровательный, маленький, тихий город. В Краби много старых зданий, баров, ресторанов и местных экзотических рынков с продуктовыми лавками на старой пристани Чао Фа (Chao Fa), там вы можете отведать блюда местной кухни. Девиз Краби: “Прекрасный город, Прекрасные люди” местные жители Краби гордятся своим городом и своим теплым и щедрым характером. С пирса Чао Фа (Chao Fa) можно отправиться на лодке до главного природного символа города Као Нам Канаб (Kho Nam Kanab) – 100-метровые скалы-близнецы расположены по обе стороны реки Краби и являются своеобразными водными воротами в Краби-таун. Также посетите остров Ко Кланг (Koh Klang) расположенный в устье реки, где вы сможете проникнуться жизнью местных рыболовных общин, и побывать в мангровых зарослях.


топ

10

Лучших мест

для отдыха

Провинция Краби является раем для тех, кто любит солнце и ищет удовольствие, а также это одно из лучших мест в мире для скалолазания, дайвинга и каякинга. Журнал Краби предлагает вам топ 10 видов отдыха, которые стоит попробовать здесь, в Краби: КАЯКИНГ Это очень популярное занятие в Краби. Мангровые леса, пещеры и, конечно же, пляжи, дают много возможностей для каякинга. Ао Нанг и Рэйлэй пользуются большей популярностью, так как находятся близко и до них удобно добраться. Если же вы хотите больше приключений и хотите познакомиться с красивейшими местами провинции, уголками девственной природы и их обитателями, то отправьтесь в тур в Ао Талэин (Ao Thalane) или в Бор Тор (Bor Thor), которые находятся в Национальном парке Тарн Бок Корани (Tarn Boke Koranee). Пещеры, гроты и лагуны, сделают ваш день незабываемым. ВАТ ТАМ СУА (Wat Tham Suea) Храм «Тигровая Пещера» ВАТ ТАМ СУА (Wat Tham Suea) — одна из интереснейших достопримечательностей Краби. Храм расположен прямо под сводами пещеры. С вершины горы, в которой распалагается пещера с храмом, открывается потрясающая панорама на окрестности. Однако, чтобы попасть туда, вам предстоит преодолеть 1237 ступеней. В этой пещере археологами были найдены многочисленные древние артефакты, ныне хранящиеся в музее. А в пещере можно увидеть отпечаток ноги Будды и его величественную статую. Объедините поездку в Храм с другими достопримечательностями, например посетите еще Са Маракот (Sa Morakot) изумрудный бассейн или местный рынок. ЗАКАТЫ Основной достопримечательностью пляжа Ао Нанг (Ao Nang) и Ноппарат Тара (Noppharat Thara), конечно же, являются закаты . Муссонные дожди приносят тучи, которые зловеще нависают в небе над морем, создавая незабываемые закаты. Самая красота складывается из непостижимого и величественного “рисунка” подсвеченных облаков. Чем более “размазаны” облака по небу и чем более невероятны их формы, тем красивее закат.


БАРЫ И МОРСКИЕ РЕСТОРАНЫ АО НАНГА И НОППАРАТ ТАРЫ После вечерней прогулки, завершите день бокалом коктейля в одном из баров на пляже или порадуйте себя ужином с морепродуктами. С правой стороны пляжа Ао Нанг находится улочка с ресторанами, где блюда из морепродуктов представлены в большом разнообразии или вы можете попробывать местную рыбную кухню в самом конце пляжа Ноппарат Тара. СКАЛОЛАЗАНИЕ ПЛЯЖ РЭЙЛЭЙ (RAILAY BEACH) Пляжи Рэйлей (Railay), Тонсай (Tonsay) и Прананг (Phranang) находятся на полуострове в Railay Bay совсем рядом с Ао Нангом и по праву считаются одними из самых красивых мест в Таиланде. А первоклассные маршруты для скалолазания на многочисленных скалах делают это место настоящей “Меккой” для скалолазов со всего мира. Практически на всех пляжах острова есть богатый выбор вулканических скал, по которым проложены 700 маршрутов разной степени сложности. И профессионал, и новичок в скалолазании найдут здесь подходящую скалу, магазины альпинистского снаряжения с доступными ценами или пункты проката, а также опытных инструкторов, которые смогут гарантировать безопасность во время занятий. РЫНКИ Как и во многих восточных странах, в Тайланде особое место занимают рынки. На местных рынках можно купить свежие овощи и фрукты, живую рыбу и различные морепродукты, мясо, яйца, одежду и обувь. Любой человек, пришедший сюда, моментально попадает в пестрый круговорот ярких цветов и запахов, доносящихся с прилавков уличных торговцев едой. Обычно, рынки работают со второй половины дня, когда солнце уже не сильно печет, примерно с 3-х часов дня, и до часов 7 вечера. Посетите рынок в районе Клонг Хенг на Ао Нанге, который работает по четвергам и субботам.

радует порхающими разноцветными бабочками и юркими ящерками. И вот за деревьями появляется Изумрудное озеро с целебной водой, насыщенной минералами и природными солями. Чуть дальше есть Голубое озеро, поражающее цветом своей воды, им можно только любоваться и наблюдать, как из-под земли бьют горячие источники. АРХИПЕЛАГ КО ХОНГ (KOH HONG) Ни одно посещение Краби или Ао Нанга не будет полным, без поездки на острова Ко Хонг (Koh Hong) - это потрясающая группа островов расположенных у побережья Краби (Хонг в переводе с тайского - “комната”) Пляжи Ко Хонг никогда не перестанут удивлять кристально чистой водой, большим количеством разнообразных рыб у берега, и белоснежным песком на пляже. В скалах можно обнаружить узкий проход в закрытую бухту, внутри которой, вы сможете увидеть мангровые деревья, уходящие своими корнями в воду.

СА МАРАКОТ (SA MARAKOT) Изумрудное озеро Са Моракот по праву считается изюминкой Краби. Вода здесь прозрачна в любое время года и меняется в зависимости от времени суток и угла падения солнечных лучей. Дорога к Изумрудному озеру великолепна: тропинка ведет среди переплетающихся лиан, плутает в ровных зарослях бамбука, теряется между деревьями, Текс переведен и отредактирован: Шинарита Стоун

МЕСТНАЯ НОЧНАЯ ЖИЗНЬ На Ао Нанге имеется большое количество баров, ресторанов и ночных клубов, рассчитанных на все вкусы. Однако Ао Нанг хорош и своей демократичностью: местные цены доступны практически всем, причем качество блюд, напитков и обслуживания от этого не страдает. Стильный бар «Last Fisherman» настоящий эталон пляжных баров. Бамбуковый навес, столики на песке, звезды, отличная музыка – что еще нужно для счастья? Барный комплекс Central Point распалагает несколькими залами, в которых звучит живая музыка и всемирно известные хиты прошлых лет. На Ао Нанге очень много пивных баров и ирландских пабов, где подается недорогое, но хорошее пиво и всевозможные закуски к нему. Стоит отметить, что, несмотря на то, что нравы в Ао Нанге более сдержанные, чем в Паттайе или Бангкоке, все же любители “клубнички” смогут побаловать себя, познакомившись с доступными девушками. Они работают в местных гоугоу барах, расположенных на улице Сой Салай (Soi Salai). Пляж Ноппарат Тара, порадует вас колоритнейшим баром «Хиппи» и ярким пляжным баром Luna, в котором имеется великолепный танцпол. ЛОДОЧНЫЕ ТУРЫ В МАНГРОВЫЕ ЗАРОСЛИ Это интересное путешествие для любителей экотуризма. Манговые заросли, которые окаймляют побережье различных островов, создают каналы с лабиринтами. Во время прогулки на лодке, можно увидеть и посетить множество интересных мест: удивительный лес мангровых зарослей, пальм и лиан; скалистые острова с гротами и пещерами; большие и маленькие каньоны, где обитают красивые тропические птицы. Отправиться в это незабываемое путешествие можно со старого причала Чаофа (Chaofa).


Wuzzle

The Brain Drain

Sudoku

Solutions 1. Over my Dead Body 2. Right Under the Nose 3. See Eye to Eye 4. Looking Out for Number One 5. Be-Line 6. Home is Where the Heart Is DOWN 1. PDQ’s kin 2. Lion’s hair 3. Country lodgings 4. EMT’s word 5. Chump 6. Mouth liquid 7. Stated a viewpoint 8. Positively! 9. Adventure 10. Shakespearean king 11. Bawdy 16. Finished 20. Insane 21. Prevent 22. Fine fabric 23. Baltic, e.g. 24. Association (abbr)

ACROSS 1. Off kilter 6. Asian sauce 9. Building extension 12. Yule visitor 13. King Kong, e.g. 14. View 15. Maryland’s capital 17. Crow’s call 18. Nuisance 19. Wine (Fr.)

20. Fat for frying 21. Mature 23. Distress letters 26. Wipe out 29. Upright 31. Lymph 32. Pleasant 36. 14th Letters 37. Relate 38. Lincoln, et al. 40. Psychic letters

25. Snakes 27. ___-gallon hat 28. 19th letter 30. Average grades 33. Relaxed (2 wds) 34. Small hound 35. Mouth parts 38. Locale 39. Freshwater fish 41. Floor model 42. Revise 43. Fishing string 44. Thailand’s neighbour 46. Director, ___ Brooks 47. Fellow

41. Valley 45. Moved swiftly 46. TV & radio (2 wds) 48. Newark time zone (abbr) 49. Compass point (abbr) 50. ____ acid (nutrient) 51. Braying beast 52. Rent 53. Musical tones


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