Ishita Kulkarni • Clothing
• Textile
• Fashion
Hello! I am Ishita Kulkarni, I graduated from the Department of Clothing and Textile, Maharaja Sayajirao University, Vadodara, Gujarat. I enjoy doing process based work, conceptualization, print making, pattern making and manipulation. I am very interested in hand crafted products, embroidery, weaves, arts and crafts of India and its minute detailing. Apart from all these, I enjoy sketching and illustration, travelling and documentation of my journeys, wildlife photography and reading.
Content Embroidery Prints Weaves Motifs & Patterns Fashion Illustrations Documentation of Kutch
Embroidery : Threads Of Communication In this project I have attempted to study embroideries that hail from dierent regions of india. My focus was on understanding the mythologies, stories, motifs and the materials used to create this magnificent pieces of art. Further I expanded my range to understand their end uses and their product diversification. A craft and its intricacies cannot be understood until we do it. Here are some samples that I made in duration of my study.
Kashida Of Kashmir Kashida is a delicate needle work which is executed using two or three kinds of stitches i.e. satin stitch and stem stitch. It is done on cotton or pashmina with silk threads. Bright and vibrant colours are used. The motifs are derived from the nature generally being fruits, flowers etc.
I have taken a stylised mango motif. And finished with satin stitch and giving it an outline by stem stitch.
Embroidery of Gujarat
Kasuti Of Karnataka
Gavanti
It is an amalgamation of 16 dierent styles of embroidery which is mastered by tribes of that region i.e. mochi bharat, kanbi bharat, aabla, aari , rabari, etc. to name a few styles. Mirrors and applique are unique features. Peacocks, parrots are their favorite motifs along with Sindhi Taropa which is intricate interlacing of threads in a square.
Sindhi Taropa
It is a count thread embroidery which is majorly done by the household women. Motifs are objects that are found in day to day life of a women like a cradle, oil lamp, temple stoopas, etc. Motifs are geometrical because of the nature of embroidery. The peculiarity of this embroidery is that it is finished by going back on the same path. Stitches are called Gavanti, Negi, Menthi, Murgi.
Negi
Murgi
Phulkari Of Punjab
Phulkari meaning floral work is a count thread embroidery. The motifs are essentially flowers in geometric manner which is worked on khaddar with silk floss. Darning stitch is closely worked in parallel manner to obtain the finished look. This embroidery is worked on dark background with bright colours of floss.
Embroidery Of Manipur
The embroidery as a whole has a chiseled appearance, giving it a woven eect. The motifs of this embroidery are deeply rooted in the folk tales of the tribes. Major stitches used are satin, couching for filling and chain stitch for giving an outline. Predominantly black cotton thread is used, to add colour red, yellow and green used. Cotton is favored fabric.
Kantha Of Bengal
Gold & Silver
Gold and silver embroidery is known by several names such as Zardosi, badla, kamdani, etc. Along with salmo, tiki, dori,badla etc. stitches like satin, couching, ,chain, stem, running are used to give body and structure. Motifs range from animals, floral, scriptures to famous monuments. Kantha is a traditional folk art of Bengal, which is worked on several layers of fabric. Fabric used is Mulmul or Daccai cotton. Traditionally white fabric was used or worn out dhotis and saris. Very small Darning stitches are used. Variation and texture is created by increasing and decreasing the stitch length and position. The motifs range from human figures, chariots to fishes and lotuses.
Print : Traditional impressions The main focus of this project was techniques & styles of printing, aesthetics and execution. In the journey of this project I discovered some conventional, unconventional and traditional printing styles. Experimenting and visualization were handy skills and execution was tricky one to achieve with experience. It was a process filled with colours , experiments, patience and surprises! Every style of printing is beautiful in its own unique manner. But the end result and purpose of printing defines which technique to be used for the best results.
Screen Printing
Screen printing is based on the technique of using stencils, which is one of the oldest methods. These samples of screen printing are made by flat bed hand screen.
(1) For my first attempt I chose an abstract motif with less intricacy. This was inspired from the illustrations on Chinese kites and Dragons.
Second print is from one of my later experiments. I challenged my self by taking an intricate motif, with detailing, and little curves. It was tricky to expose the screen and to maintain hand pressure while printing as well. (2)
Stencil Printing
Batik
Batik is a process of creating patterns by wax resist. Beautiful contrast of colour that is created inspired me to express the contrasting emotions and expressions. Two faces having expressions of happiness and sorrow showing the drama in life.
Stencil printing gives an eect of joining pieces of a puzzle as we break the design by bridges and create islands where colour is filled. Flamingo was my first choice as its tall, slender and delicate stature would be best captured. When we think of flamingo, we think pink..!! Flamingos are said to have wings of fire with beautiful combinations of black and pink.
Tie & Dye : Resist Printing The means of resisting in this style is waxed thread, simple thread or objects. The area that has to be resisted is tied by thread by folding in various manner. In tis project I explored the traditional methods as well expanded my horizon to unconventional ones. Experimented obtaining textures by resisting with different kinds of objects. This creates beautiful effects and patterns that are natural which are difficult to re create. The fabric used is mulmul as it is thin and can be tied easily.
Leheriya
TRADITIONAL
Leheriya
Leheriya
Hand Tritik
Marbelling
Pleating
Knotting
Hair Pins
Hair Pins
CONTEMPORARY
Chord
Pencil
Safety Pins
Stone
U Pins
Block Printing In this assignment not only I dealt with the details of printing but also preparation of dyes, colour trays, preparing fabric and carving out a block as well.
Weaves This project was focused on weaving techniques and styles. It was divided in two parts i.e. cardboard weaving and loom weaving. Card board weaving I experimented with colours, yarns and refined my sense of aesthetics. Whereas in loom weaving I refined my technical and practical knowledge of loom and the complete process of weaving.
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CARD WEAVING
Interlock Technique
Egyptian Tapestry Knot
Oriental Sumac Knot
Warp Wrapping
Slit Technique Danish Medallion
Spanish Lace
Leno Lace
Dovetail Technique
LOOM WEAVING
Rib weave
Plain weave
2/2 Twill weave
Satin weave
Basket weave
Motifs & Patterns This project was all about motifs, patterns and repeats. I categorized this project under three segments : Linear Patterns in which I experimented with various motifs in black and white. Created fretts, scrolls, chains interlacement etc. This gave me sound knowledge of accuracy as well as repeats. Second is repeat systems in which I took a motif and repeated it in dierent variations. This gave me an understanding that how does the size, shape of the motif aect the way it is repeated. How does a repeat have an impact on the end use of the textile. Third is motifs. I made motifs taking an inspiration such as geometry, illusion, traditional, abstract, etc. and using certain colour keys. I expanded my assignment to that how will I place or implement this motifs in an object, or what end use are they suitable for.
Linear Pattern
VERTEBRATE
SCROLL UNDULATE
Linear Pattern
INTERLACEMENT
FRETT CHAIN
Checker Board Drop Repeat
REPEAT SYSTEMS
Stripe Repeat
Ogee Repeat
Spot Repeat Brick Repeat
Illusion. I tried to create illusion with lines. As if the boxes are emerging out of a point. It can be digitally printed on a pillow cover, with boxes being embellished with sequences to give a more 3D eect.
Geometric I created two sparrows sitting sitting on tree branches. It can be appliqued or embroidered on a wallet.
Object I went for an auto rickshaw. Its quirkiness appeals to me. It can be screen printed on back pack. We use a bag packas  while travelling and auto is a mode of transport, some connection I felt.
Traditional I took motivation from madhubani paintings. I created a fish motif with texture of Jal Jamuni which represents water. It can be hand painted on a yoke of a Kurti or a T-shirt
Abstract I created a an abstract design through lines. It can be created by weaving or Ikat. A flared one shoulder dress would suit best.
Novelty In this I attempted to merge two completely absurd things into one. I made an eye into a fish. Which can be hand painted on a column dress
Contemporary I tried modifying a traditional motif and making it more stylized. It can be block printed and further embellished by embroidery on a skirt .
Fashion Illustrations In this project I have tried to sketch different silhouettes, texture, garments. I also expanded my range by trying different medias of colours. I also sketched few designs of an established designer and tried to highlight the effects that I liked in that particular garment.
This ensemble is all about being edgy and formal. With a peg skirt, inverted pleats and an on shoulder neck line. To finish the look with a pair of ankle strap stilettoes. Media used is pencil colours.
This sketch I attempted to create denim texture, pairing it with a polo neck t-shirt with red pumps. Media used is pencil colours.
This ensemble reflects grace and poise with a velvet coat and black jeans. Pairing it up navy blue pumps. The media used is sketch pens and pencil colours.
This sketch is of a draped garment. Attempted to give the texture of pleats, gathers and fall of fabric. Media used is pencil colours.
In this sketch I attempted a skirt with yoke, paired with overlap short top with bell sleeves. Media used is pencil colours.
This ensemble is bold statement. With a leather corset, sheer skirt and club it with knee high leather boots. This gives a super girl feeling. Media used is black water proof ink and Fevicol.
Black sheer Anarkali with a stand collar. Media used is 2B and 4B pencil.
A knitted H silhouette dress with black leather boots is a perfect ensemble for a winter evening. Media used is 2B and 4B pencil.
A black column sequence dress. Media used is 2B and 4B pencil.
A one shoulder flared dress with uneven hem. The media used is sketch pens and water.
A sea green siren tube evening gown. Media is combination of poster paints and pencil colours.
This is a design for a project based on theme automobiles. The media used is wax crayons, pencil colours and water colours.
This is again a design for automobiles inspired rom a structure of wheel. The media used is pencil colours.
A mermaid silhouette and an amphora. These sketches are my interpretation of Manav Gangwani’s musical melody. What appealed to me most was the beautiful fall of hem. The subtle grading of colours to the artistic use of swarvoski crystals in mermaid aptly justifies his choice of a sensuous woman as muse. At the same time time the amphora gives a bold yet royal feel.
Documentation Kutch: Land Of Crafts
Kutch lies in the north western part of India in the state of Gujarat. It is India’s white desert, which is blessed bountifully with Arts and Crafts. Innumerous tribes having dierent forte amalgamate to create a platform of craft ranging from embroideries, beadwork, dyeing, printing weaving to pottery. The crafts are their deep rooted traditions, and their self impression. There are generations artisans who have been doing these crafts. Kutch can be called the craft hub of India wisely as it has something for everyone.
My first memory of Kutch was flat white dessert, spread endlessly in every direction. But the crafts of Kutch show a complete reverse picture in terms of colours. They have bright and vibrant colours. Even the clothing of various tribes has a dash of colours as if they are making up for the monochrome terrain of Kutch. The clothing of the locals strikes a visual balance against the backdrop of white Rann.
Decorations on the wall with mirror and clay. On backdrop of sunset some notes of local music.
I visited a village near Dhordo which claimed to sell all handmade traditional articles of Kutch. Women of Kutch fascinated me with their various moods, aggressively marketing their merchandise, being shy and hiding behind their bright dupattas, at times even boldly looking into the camera for a photograph. I found a vivid contrast of modern influence and traditional value in the dressing of women. Innumerous piercing in the ears, white bangles high up their arms, draping style of the dupatta, and their Ghagharas spoke a lot about their deep traditional values in clothing. But at the same time dupatta being of synthetic material, extensive use of machine embroidery in their garments left me confused and fumbling for the reasons that why so..?
Women of Kutch in their dierent moods
As a textile student my love for crafts is undying. I have a strong feeling that crafts should be conserved and commercialized but in the right direction. There are various reasons for the change which can be debated on, but they need to be thought of.
Women of Kutch in their dierent moods
Segments of national award winning shawl
Extra weft peacock pattern in progress.
Weaving in progress
On my way back to Bhuj I dropped by Bhujodi, which seemed to be the bubbling craft capital of Kutch. Here I got to see all the crafts neatly organized in the craft center. But what fascinated me most was the weavers weaving in the front courtyard of their house. Pit Looms were like an indispensable furniture of their homes. Here not only I got to see the weavers in action weaving shawls, but also got to see national award winning shawl. The intricacy and back breaking patience of the weaver left me spell bound. Here I got a chance to interact with the weaver and get to know their side of the story. The kind of demand, market value, from where they source the material. I was shocked to know that the weaver had woven his first full length shawl at the age of 12..! Through the weaver I got to know that mass production of the shawls is having its negative impact on the creativity and innovation in their weaving. On asking that which is his favorite piece of weaving‌. The weaver went in deep retrospect and replied that he is yet to make it. This dedication, passion and love for his work inspired me beyond words. But what I learnt that mere passion and patience doesn’t only work, it has to be combined with intricate planning.
In the course of my trip to Kutch I also visited Ajrakhpur. As the name suggests, it has deep relation to Ajrakh the style of printing which is done on both the sides of the fabric giving it a rich look. but the best part of the visit was that I got to see the use of natural dyes. I got to know about their natural availability, their synthetic derivatives, the deep chemistry and the precision required. printing is undertaken in several stages, from preparing the fabric to giving it finishing touches.
Ajrakh in process.
Resist dyeing in process.
Apart from Ajrakh they practice other styles of printing like resist. Combining mud with adhesive and using it ton resist portions of fabric to create patterns and designs. In dyeing these fabrics predominantly indigo is used. The process of resisting and dyeing is repeated couple of times to achieve combination and layers of dierent colours. Apart from indigo other natural dyes are used as well.
Also I saw some splendid needle work. I couldn’t see it in process‌ but saw their beautiful end products for sale and bought them also..!! Superior quality, patience and delicate stitches. Even though embroidery of Kutch is known over seven seas and has been contemporized in many ways, still the traditional form of embroidery appeals to me. I also saw some splendid bead work as torans, accessories for their camels, and beautiful jewelry. The jewelry can be said as the contemporary form, but accessories of the camel shows the traditional flavor of it. In an all my visit to Kutch was very colourful and versatile. I saw crafts of various sectors apart from textiles which broadened my horizon. It also made me very sensitive toward traditional handicrafts and most importantly sensitive towards the skill of an artisan. Eager to explore Kutch further..!
Bead work jewelry.
Embroidered patches
Thank You Ishita Kulkarni kulkarniishita@yahoo.in +91 986 7272 138