Photos: XACALLI KITCHEN Page 89
It’s been a high-velocity year for openings. Three of our 10 winners were launched in the final weeks of 2022. Read why they’re so compelling and worthy of joining the crew of standouts shaping how we’ll dine wonderfully in ’23. Cheers to momentum!
by GRETCHEN KURZ
photographs by EMILY J. DAVIS
SAN CLEMENTE’S GEMA IS THE MOST AMBITIOUS MEXICAN ARRIVAL WE’VE SEEN IN YEARS. The open-air dinner house stars the singular gastronomy of executive chef Juan Pablo Cruz. His Mexico City roots and five-star culinary credentials inspired owner Sarah Resendiz to create a top tier for Mexican foodways in O.C. Don’t fear the menu’s unfamiliar dishes and obscure ingredients because a patient, conversant waitsta explains it all—right down to the dazzling mezcal cocktails that suit an amuse-bouche of crisp tostadas upright in a small bowl of intricate mole, revealing the soul of this scratch kitchen. Urbane small plates include oysters fundidos with chile mora, delicate lengua de res in avocado broth, and six duck chalupas under chopped chard dressed with vinaigrette made with tart Yucatan honey from stingless bees. Hyperseasonal salads such as the pear with hibiscus cheese and walnuts are spellbinding but balanced. Braised veal cheeks with chickpeas can pass as a light entree. Entrees veer from a vegan-friendly Oaxacan tamal to sliced A-7 wagyu filet with robust tamarindo adobo and alluring scalloped potatoes. Cruz’s deeply considered cuisine plus Resendiz’s simpatico hospitality also fuel their sensational library of artisan mezcals, 100-plus and growing.
Versatile South Coast Plaza never fails to satisfy our appetite for international meals, day or night. Dazzling debuts keep coming, as Populaire and Tableau Kitchen and Bar both make this year’s Best New Restaurants list. Culinary riches in and around the center extend to these spots, too:
ANQI Vietnamese Luxurious cocktails and feasting in a stylish date-night se ing
ANTONELLO Italian Exquisite repasts, pampering service worthy of power dining and special occasions
COSTA Peruvian
Upmarket steak and seafood dishes ideally situated for preperformance dining
DIN TAI FUNG Taiwanese The world’s most beloved name in handcra ed juicy dumplings and the first location in O.C.
HAMAMORI Japanese Followers of James Hamamori worship his lavish sushi creations at this top- oor aerie.
KNIFE PLEAT French Where Michelin stargazers make a pilgrimage to experience the transcendent cuisine of chef Tony Esnault
PARADISE DYNASTY Chinese Sleek venue starring an epic cast of dumplings, noodles, wontons, and xiao long bao made while you watch
ROYAL KHYBER Indian Refined classics with clean ingredients and great technique served in a genteel se ing
TERRACE BY MIX MIX Filipino fusion Relaxed patio dining on creative French, Italian, and modern Filipino small plates
VACA Spanish Urbane hangout for vibrant tapas, aged steaks, paellas, and sensational cocktails
POPULAIRE ARRIVED WITH THE STEALTH OF A POP - UP IN JUNE, GIVEN ITS SPEEDY CONSTRUCTION AND SLEEPY LOCATION IN THE FORMER LAWRY’S SPACE AT SOUTH COAST PLAZA. Precociously self-assured, the modern bistro is the dream of veteran chefs Nick Weber and Ross Pangilinan. So, is their collaborative fare French or Asian or American? Why yes, it is. Escargot ebelskivers are ingenious— just-griddled orbs of pu y escargot batter on a puddle of parsley-swirled buttermilk emulsion. The flavors say France, but the format says fun. Also fun: crunchy duck confit “spli s” with Vietnamese herbs. Weber’s heady ratatouille with gochujang and runny egg is now a foodie media darling. Chawanmushi is umami 101—a savory egg custard boosted by sa ron dashi, crab, and uni. The all-day menu stretches from the Ladies Who Lunch chopped salad to flu y gnudis in browned butter to the handsome sliced tomahawk steak. Royale With Cheese is a burger nonpareil, boasting a juicy short-rib patty, potato bun, and glorious layer of raclette. Regulars know prix fixe lunch is a sleeper find— three indulgent courses designed weekly by Weber. General manager Alyssa McDiarmid often sta s the door, imbuing the stylish Prussian blue room with upbeat grace while also curating the savvy wine list.
DESPITE THE ABSENCE OF A SPLASHY GRAND OPENING, WORD OF TABLEAU KITCHEN AND BAR’S DEBUT AT SOUTH COAST PLAZA WENT VIRAL AMONG FANS OF NEARBY TOAST KITCHEN. They scurried to report on cofounders
Ed Lee and chef John Park’s newest all-day venture. The buzz continues as Tableau grows into its welcoming digs, adding upgrades such as afternoon tea service and a full liquor license for some ingenious cocktails. It’s a gift to fi nally have a sophisticated pre-noon option in the home wing. Brunch is fertile territory for Park, a gifted pastry chef with savory talents honed in prominent Los Angeles kitchens. No wonder the pancakes are sou élight, the bagels are house-made, and the crab quiche’s custard and crust are so precise. His ri on chicken and wa es is a de facto signature dish—garlic soy wings paired with taiyaki wa es containing sweet soy custard that echoes notes of maple syrup. Dinner brims with clever matchups and unexpected flourishes such as the top-selling fried burrata sandwich with pumpkin seed pesto or slices of burnished lap cheong tucked into the bowl of shrimp and grits. “Pho-tato” chips dusted with umami-laden seasonings set o the grilled chicken bánh mì. Desserts are few, and all are sublime.
AFTER THREE SO - SO EATERIES FLOPPED DURING THE PAST DECADE AT THIS ADDRESS, BARAN GIVES DINERS A REASON TO RETURN, EVEN TO REJOICE. The turnaround kicked o in April with a chic makeover starring glittering chandeliers and a dramatic mural. Lavish portions of classic Persian cuisine are the draw here. Start with vibrant housemade hummus that complements
everything on the table. Splendidly complicated zeytoon parvardeh is a rare find—so do try these green olives stu ed with garlic, pomegranate, and ground walnuts. Pristine shirazi salad stands out—a glistening heap of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, and onions. All roads lead to fragrant stews, elaborate rice, and, of course, ravishing kebabs. From giant shrimp to juicy chicken to lavish filet mignon, kebabs are luscious with expertly singed edges. Hearty gheymeh bademjan—a
tomato-y stew of sauteed eggplant, dried lime, and tender veal—is deeply satisfying. Also lovely—lubia polo rice with green beans and diced filet mignon. Sweets include the silkiest sa ron rosewater ice cream and a most delicate baklava. Navid and Elnaz Daneshpour with partner Kyle Naderi manifest this welcome retool that also includes a walled garden that hums with feasts on sultry nights. At long last, the sad parade of fails is over, and this quirky center has a keeper.
Top dishes at just-born daytime cafes that have sprung up all over the county.
URROUNDED BY UTTERLY FAMILIAR CHAIN EATERIES, INDIE NEWCOMER PUBLIC LEGACY
HAPPILY CLAIMS ITS OUTLIER STATUS IN ORANGE’S STADIUM PROMENADE. Chad Dickey and chef Gerry Kent leverage 15 years of success in Temecula to open this versatile canteen serving eclectic American fare with a comfort food edge. Daily brunch until 2 p.m. answers all the morning cravings, from a latte-plus-pastry jump-start to the juicy house-brined pork chop with maple drizzle and fried egg. In between, find a terrific frittata or classic Benedict. Post brunch, look for inventive starters such as soy-ginger broccoli with sesame brittle or hearty grub like the first-rate smash burger with two brisket patties. Thai basil curry proves the kitchen speaks fluent vegan. Stocked with a staggering inventory of brown spirits, the 30-stool bar has a flip side facing a dark, cozy den with a date-night vibe. Bypass those ace signature cocktails to order from a next-level well, or tap the new suds from North County breweries. Wellversed servers help navigate choices galore—food or drink. They’re clearly in sync with the bar and kitchen crews. The e ect is a welcoming, sincere hospitality that converts visitors to regulars.
HOW FITTING THAT BLOSSOMS ARE THE TOP - SELLING APPETIZER AT BLOOM, A WELCOME 2022 ARRIVAL IN SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO. Crispy zucchini
flowers ooze Manchego cream under green frisée with a rosette of pickled red onion. Bloom is ready to pack its 90-seat house with followers of its siblings (Olea, Vine, Ironwood, and Sapphire) and fans of wine country cuisine by Jared Cook, craft cocktails by Gabe Whorely, and expert hospitality by owner Russ Bendel. Cook frontloads the dinner-only menu with irresistible starters such as barbecue quail o set by celery leaf slaw and tart chow chow; endive salad with sweet Charentais melon and intense duck prosciutto; and bourbonscented pâté with apricot preserves and singed rustic bread. Entrees earn extra points for not being a la carte. Herb-marinated pork porterhouse includes fromage blanc grits and seasonal vegetables. Cippolini onions and bacon-braised kale accompany the terrific Jidori half chicken. California wines dominate the list, so apropos given Father Junipero Serra reportedly planted the state’s first vineyard in 1779. Not as historic but divine all the same—the popular tequila cocktail Ortega, with Aperol, lime, and Tajín. Bloom is purposely petite, having been retrofitted into its landmark 1930 brick structure, the town’s fi rst city hall. It couldn’t be more visible, just steps from the treasured Mission San Juan Capistrano.
Neighborhood spots have a sneaky way of opening when your head is turned. Be on the lookout for these promising new places.
4
Number of beef pa ies you can order on the retro house burger at The Backyard, a newbie on Seal Beach’s Main Street
11
Number of bubblies on the wine list at Brightwaters Wine Bar and Restaurant in downtown Huntington Beach
$34
Cost of three-course Saturday prix fixe dinner at Santa Ana’s charming Roque e Cafe & Bistro
9
Number of Smørrebrøds—signature Danish open-face rye sandwiches—on o er at Copenhagen Corner in Laguna Niguel
40
Ounces of the Prime porterhouse that lavishly feed two at north Irvine’s slick Marble Steakhouse & Grille
INI WEAVES JAPANESE FLAVORS AND INGREDIENTS INTO CLASSIC ITALIAN CUISINE AN ATYPICAL MASHUP FOR DINERS WEARY OF UNORIGINAL MENUS. The latest production from Kei Concepts, Ini joins siblings Vox Kitchen, Kin Izakaya, and Rol in sprawling Fountain Valley Town Center. Tru e cheese bread is a worthy, shareable starter. The mountain of
toasted bread cubes mortared with flu y tru e-scented ricotta isn’t its best self without a drizzling of the hot honey served on the side. Beef carpaccio’s Japanese cue is squiggles of tru e cream and onion ponzu to play up those see-through slices of wagyu. Super-ripe melons reveal the kitchen pays attention to the precisely adorned salad of luscious fruit with prosciutto ribbons, yuzu crème fraîche, and crushed hazelnuts. The mini skillet
of soft, piquant meatballs in rich marinara rivals that of your favorite Italian joint. Pasta options include a bacon-flecked udon carbonara and a moreish duck ragu over house-made pappardelle. Signature drinks are a strength—try the house Negroni with fig-infused gin. Desserts are fierce—don’t miss butter corn bread, a tricked-out warm butter cake with popcorn ice cream. No surprise the expansive dining room is booked tight every night.
PACIFIC CITY’S KAI, THE AMBITIOUS VENTURE FROM THE WILD THYME GROUP BEHIND SHOREBIRD, IS A CHOOSE -YOUROWN ADVENTURE WITH MULTIPLE ROOMS, MINDSETS, AND MENUS. Canopied with cherry blossoms, the main black-on-black dining room is option one, but don’t overlook the yakitori bar, the 16-seat sushi bar in a private alcove, the sunset-view patio, or the Whiskey Room, an omakase “speakeasy” for intimate parties. Executive chef Tin Nguyen’s dishes are more Asian fusion than Japanese, despite his a nity for premium nigiri. The dinner menu covers a lot of ground, from gyoza to robata to buttery miso black cod. Think juicy wagyu meatballs in a petite iron skillet, or luscious watermelon salad boosted by lime salt, nubbins of pork belly, and yuzu kosho. Yes, you can get Shorebird’s popular Balboa roll here, but the Hashbrown is the darling cut roll of Kai. Its ingredients read like a hot mess, but the kitchen works magic with crispy potatoes, tuna, blue crab, and cream cheese for a harmonious marvel of textures and temperatures. Spring brunch on the patio appeals for chicken katsu Benedict with sesame hollandaise or flu y ricotta pancakes. Modern cocktails by bar director Topher Bray are a tad whimsical but consistently executed. For spirits minimalists, there’s a dazzling selection of Japanese whisky.
Be they funky speakeasies, bougie lounges, or dapper whiskey rooms, it’s clear we’re making up for lost social time with this crush of new places to drink. Time to update your rideshare app payment details, assuming you’re not the designated driver.
Graceland
Huntington Beach
Chic drinks and small bites for grownups who are OK with lockering their phones and adhering to a reasonable dress code. Music is heavy on the ’70s, but no Elvis. Hidden inside HQ Gastropub.
Cowboys & Poodles
Costa Mesa
Kitschy, teensy speakeasy with Roy Rogers’ acid-trip decor and elaborate drinks with corny names. Can get loud, and it’s not cheap. Best for parties of four or fewer.
Chapter 4
Downtown Fullerton
Chill, intimate haunt with elegant decor and gracious service. Brown spirits are the specialty, plus ace Mediterranean nibbles. Inside Les Amis, reservations advised.
Seoul Wine Bar
Fullerton
Sake and soju cocktails get creative at this cheerful Amerige Heights hang with a tight menu of snappy Korean eats—kimchi quesadilla, anyone?
Union Social
Stanton
Avant-garde cra cocktails in sleek and roomy digs at Rodeo 39 Public Market, bolstered by polished Japanese raw bar tapas. Our favorite libation: The Plank.
Momoku
San Clemente
Sultry backstairs place with fanciful intoxicants, a cordial crew, and fortifying sushi hand rolls. Another winner from impresario Leonard Chan.
The Lost Inferno
San Clemente
Maximalist tiki drinks in a retroGoonies venue complete with gro oesque decor and a dash of pirate swagger. Monthly magic shows.
ADARK AND STORMY NIGHT ISN’T ENOUGH TO KEEP FOLKS OFF THE UNLIT ROAD LEADING TO SILVERADO CANYON’S XACALLI KITCHEN. The golden glow from a low-slung building signals this is the just-born Mexican restaurant with fine-dining ambitions. Owner Mimi Nguyen and executive chef Vincent Espinoza join forces to bring elevated cuisine to this unlikely, close-knit enclave. Espinoza, a veteran of AnQi, Chaak, and Gabbi’s, fortifies his seasonal menu with canyon-grown produce. Nguyen revived the longfallow space using materials from a 1914 lemon packing house, saved in Silverado for decades. Chilled seafood starters include ceviche with aged bass and octopus or aguachiles starring pickled Argentine shrimp. Queso fundido is melted Oaxacan cheese, wantonly enriched with huitlacoche and accompanied by hot handmade tortillas. Platillos grandes are few but formidable. Next visit, I’m trying the pato con mole, duck breast with cocoa nib oil and mole negro. There’s also roasted whole branzino with guajillo-tomato aioli and, of course, there’s a mighty carne asada—a 16-ounce bone-in New York amped with adobo. Kudos to Espinoza for three peerless desserts, the most ravishing being the fragile meringue disc crowned with tart cream and seasonal fruit.
HANUMAN’S NEW LOCATION ARRIVED LIKE A WARM EMBRACE DURING WINTER. A spino of the original tucked in an obscure center 2 miles north, this site boasts easier access. Attention to culinary details and rigorous hospitality push Hanuman clicks above typical Thai joints. Also addictive—exclusive creations by chef Andrew Singh, say grilled lamb
chops and ribbons of snow peas and lemongrass in sweet chile glaze. Try the gentrified street food dish inspired by owner Jenny Preechatiwong’s hometown of Hat Yai, Thailand. Gai Todd Hat Yai features sublime fried chicken, sticky rice, secret sauce, and fried shallots. Each curry is richly distinct, be it mild yellow karee, nutty red panang, herby sweet green, or savory-sweet Massaman. Spicy basil wok-fried chicken or pork packs a su cient punch. For noodles that
you’ll rave about to friends, order khao soi, a big bowl of rich broth, soft egg noodles, plus a drumstick that collapses o the bone, all garnished with a showy fan of crispy noodles. Creamy-tart tom yum koong has a tabletop heater to stay warm to the last drop. Cold Myanmar lager gets a chilled glass. Engaging servers are speedy and solicitous, with spot-on recommendations and help with packing your leftovers. Odds are, folks outside are waiting for your table.
