FOOD
TRENDS
CUE THE LONE STAR BRISKET Texas-style BBQ is having a moment, and L.A. is here for it.
W
hile California barbecue is typically associated with Santa Maria–style tritip, a passion for Central Texas brisket has slowly crept into our backyards and local rib joints. And we typically have a fall heatwave that makes firing up the grill or the Green Egg smoker appealing well into October. Brothers John and Chris Bicos have owned and operated Pasadena institution GUS’S BBQ for over 13 years and have certainly noticed the trend developing. “For Central Texas BBQ, beef or brisket is generally the focus, smoked over oak wood,” John says. Gus’s uses the highest-quality prime brisket available and smokes it for 14 hours with pecan wood. “It still gives a great smoke, but the pecan is a mellower, nutty taste,” he says. The meat is also heavily dusted with thick kosher salt and cracked black pepper. “This is typical of what you will get in Texas—prime-quality beef with basic seasonings, no marinades, and a heavier smoke,” John adds. MOO’S CRAFT BARBECUE was launched in 2017 by owners Andrew and Michelle Muñoz as an East L.A. backyard pop-up before drawing long lines at Smorgasburg, and they recently opened their first brick and mortar in Lincoln Heights. Inspired by Texas barbecue, they use old-school techniques TIPS FROM THE BICOS BROTHERS > Don’t try and rush it. If you can, smoke for a minimum of 10 hours. Focus on the quality of the meat and keep it simple on the seasoning. Let it sit for a little while when it’s done cooking. Wrap it in butcher paper, which keeps it insulated but lets it breathe. (Saran Wrap steams it, while foil keeps it too hot and it continues to cook.) Hold the meat in a cooler container for a couple of hours before serving.
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Horsethief BBQ
for smoked meats with a Cali-Mex twist, and have been recognized by Food & Wine’s “Best Barbecue in Every State.” Andrew uses Creekstone or Harris Ranch brisket and makes his sausages from brisket and rib trimmings that include jalapeño-cheddar and pork verde with roasted poblano peppers and Oaxaca cheese. Their traditional Texas brisket is smoked with local white oak for 14–16 hours, with moderate fire and simple seasonings to let the meat shine through. “It wasn’t prevalent out here before, but when a few other guys and I who were inspired by Texas BBQ started doing it, it turned into a movement,” says Andrew. “People come together in groups,” says Michelle. “It’s family style, made for sharing and all about community. That’s what barbeque is.” For the Glendale community, GLENWOOD SMOKEHOUSE on Brand Blvd. is a new option by a former partner at Horse Thief BBQ and AJ’s Tex-Mex. Here the brisket takes on a Central Valley Texas meets California twist. The brisket is smoked overnight for 12–18 hours in oak with a dry rub. The housemade tangy sauce comes on the side, but the meat is so juicy you don’t really need it. Owned by two Texans, Wade McElroy and Russell Malixi, HORSETHIEF BBQ in the Grand Central Market downtown is credited by many aficionados as putting Texas brisket on the map in L.A. “I think the reason why brisket wasn’t too popular before is that it’s a pretty difficult and time-consuming cut of meat to barbecue and get right,” says Malixi. “It requires a lot of time in the smoker at a low temperature.” Even with the commitment required, it’s clear that this rich and decadent meat has become an L.A. passion.
B B Q P L AC E S AROUND L.A. W I T H T E XA S FLAIR Max City BBQ in Eagle Rock focuses on Southern-style ’cue like Texas-style brisket by the pound, sliders, sandwiches, and salads.
Originally from Compton, Bludso’s BBQ on La Brea has a less fatty cut of brisket. SLAB’s Texas-style pitmaster and co-owner Burt Bakman turned his Valley backyard barbecues, “Trudy’s Underground,” into a brick-and-mortar location in West Hollywood with The h.wood Group.
If you’re up for a hike out to Panorama City, Dr. Hogly Wogly’s BBQ has been worth the road trip for brisket since 1969. Pop-up favorite Flatpoint Barbecue brings the flavors and history of Central Texas to the streets of Los Angeles with smoked brisket, ribs, pulled pork, and handmade sausages.
WONHO FRANK LEE
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