Cirka – Issue 1

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ISSUE 1 / AUGUST-OCTOBER 2014

S H O P P I N G / T R AV E L / P E O P L E

Your complimentary copy

Adeegasho / Safar / Dadka

Nuqulkaagii Dhamaystirka ahaa

A CHANGING LAND AWAITS WAXA KU SUGAYA DHUL IS BEDDELAYA ALSO INSIDE / Ka Akhri gudaha

RASHIDALI

In search of moGadishu? Baadhitaanka Muqdisho

LASGAAL

Heritage tourism can protect cave paintings Dalxiiska Dhagalgalka ahi wuxuu ilaaliyaa Godadka Xardhan

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CONTENTS Vlad Galenko - Shutterstock.com

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REGULARFEATURES

SPECIALFEATURES

3 Foreword

8 TOURIST DESTINATION

6 IN THIS ISSUE 7 LATEST NEWS 28 CITY GUIDE

12 BUYING PROPERTY

32 WHERE TO STAY

22 MOGADISHU LIBRARY

We’ve come a long way in a short time

Hargeisa

Eka Hotel, Nairobi

34 DINE OUT

Golden Spur at the Southern Sun Mayfair, Nairobi

36 CAR REVIEW

A land of sea and sun awaits

Buying property the Somali way

18 PROFILE: RASHID ALI

City’s ‘forgotten’ heritage of inspiring architecture Rebuilt library will boost Somali prestige

24 LAS GAAL

Heritage tourism can protect cave paintings

BMW X5

40 TECH REVIEW

Smart Watches

Corporate Office Blue Bell Travels LLC Baniyas Complex B#403 PO Box 40319, Dubai T: +971 4 222 6869 F: +971 4 222 6865 E: info@jubbaairways.com

Registered Office Panari Sky Center PO Box 10718-00100 Nairobi, Kenya T: +254 (0)20 232 5573 F: +254 (0)20 232 5467 E: info@jubbaairways.com

42 LATEST RELEASES

Film and book reviews

44 CONTACT US

Jubba Airways offices and agents

45 Little flyers

Fun and games for children

46 Travel Tips 48 Fleet info 49 Route map

Cirka is published by: Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd Office 5, 2nd floor, Park Place Business Centre, 2nd Parklands Avenue, off Limuru Road, Parklands PO Box 45456-00100, Nairobi Tel: +254 (0)20 368 5700; 0734 415 133 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com

ADVERTISING: Lester Powell, Sales Director Beth Mureithi, Sales Manager Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Cell: +44 (0)7714 448057 Email: cirka@landmarine.org The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2014 Land & Marine Publications Ltd

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FOREWORD

From the GENERAL MANAGER

W

elcome aboard Jubba Airways. It is my pleasure to introduce you to the first issue of our in-flight magazine, Cirka. Cirka is an essential part of the passenger experience on board Jubba Airways. At Jubba Airways, we aspire to provide sky-high quality of comfort and service to our passengers, pursuing endless improvement and innovation to our products and services, and we are sincerely elated to be moving ahead with this new magazine for you to enjoy as you fly with us. Having launched the airline in 1998, Jubba Airways is tremendously pleased with its achievements over the past 16 years, and looks forward to

exhilarating years ahead, as we progressively strive to give you value for your money in this highly volatile aviation industry.

Diversity Besides providing charter flights to diverse international destinations, today, Jubba Airways operates a fleet of four Boeing aircraft to 18 destina-

Cirka is an essential part of the passenger experience onboard Jubba Airways tions across East Africa, the Horn of Africa and the Gulf. Our destinations and fleet size will keep expanding as we

Qoraal ka yimid General Manager Kusoo dhowaada Jubba Airways. Waxaan ku faraxsanahay inaan idinku soo dhaweyo daabacaadii koowaad joornaalka diyaarada CIRKA. CIRKA waa qeyb muhiim ah oo ka mid ah waaya aragnimada rakaabka saaran Jubba Airways. Diyaaradaan waxaa hamigeedu yahay iney idin siiso raaxo iyo qidmad wanaagsan inta aad hawada ku jirtaan. Sidoo kale waxaan ku howlanahay raadinta hormarinta qidmadaha aan u qabano rakaabkeena. Laga bilaabo markii shaqada jubbaa airways aan bilownay oo ahayd 1998, waxaan ku faraxsanahay horumarka aan gaarnay 16kii sano oo lasoo dhaafay. Sidoo kale waxaan rajeyneynaa inaan sii hormarino sanooyinka soo socda, si hantidiina idiinkugu bedelno raaxo iyo wayo aragnimo duulimaad. Markii laga yimaado diyaaradaha aan kireyno(chartered) oo u duula daafaha dunida, sidoo kale jubba

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FOREWORD

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Cabin crew

All dressed and ready to go

grow. Towards this end, we are looking to add two more international routes to our network this year, operated by the latest mid-range fleet. Our passengers can therefore look forward to a wide choice in terms of route connectivity. As you sit back and enjoy your flight, we would be glad to receive your feedback as this is what keeps improving what we do. Our in-flight attendants are always happy to help in making your flight as comfortable as possible. Once more, thank you for choosing to fly Jubba Airways.

airways waxay leedahay diyaarado rakaab oo ka kooban 4, nooca boeing oo ukala duula bariga afrika, geeska africa iyo qaliijka carbeed. Tirada diyaaradaheena waan kordhin doonaa markiin baahi timaado. Dhamaadka sanadkaan waxaan ku tala jirnaa inaan ku darno duulimaadkeena labo ama ka badan wadamo kale oo intaan ka fog, oo aan u isticmaali doono diyaarado ka waa weyn kuwa aan hada isticmaalno. Sidaas daraadeed rakaabkeenu waxaa u fududaandono iney meelo badan oo caalami ah u raaci karaan Jubba Airways. Ugu dambeyn waxaan idinrajeynaa duulimaad wacan, wixii talo iyo tusaale ahna waan soo dhoweyneynaa aniga iyo dhamaan shaqaalaha diyaarada ee Jubba Airways. Waxaan markale idinku mahdinayaa doorashada aad doorateen Jubba Airways.

Onesmus Gitau Njoki General Manager Jubba Airways

Onesmus Gitau Njoki General Manager Jubba Airways jubbaairways.com

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In this issue Green shoots of the new Somalia Soo dhaweyn. Welcome to the first issue of Cirka – Jubba Airways’ quarterly in-flight magazine. The magazine has been many months in the making and I believe is the first such high-quality publication devoted to Somalia. In its own small way, Cirka represents an important step for the nation and a clear illustration that Somalia is becoming a destination like any other. In fact, Somalia is indeed making plans to become a tourist destination. The Horn of Africa’s warm seas, deserted beaches and a strong and unique culture make Somalia something of a hidden gem. Cirka looks at the progress Somalia and Somaliland are making in this regard. For the moment, the nation’s best-known tourism landmark is probably the Laas Gaal Caves outside Hargeisa, which are featured in this issue. Another indication that all is well is a booming local property market. This first issue of the magazine analyses current trends and looks at what and where to buy. Staying close to the building sector, Cirka profiles the architect Rashid Ali, who has just put together a major exhibition in London highlighting some of Mogadishu’s colonial buildings. Looking forwards architecturally instead of backwards, plans for a new Mogadishu library are in the pipeline. If ever there was a sign of normality, culture and civilisation, this project is it. Cirka focuses on moves to get the library built. We also review the fabulous new BMW X5 luxury sport utility vehicle, stay at Nairobi’s Eka Hotel and eat out in style at the same city’s Golden Spur Restaurant. I hope you enjoy this first issue of Cirka and please contact me with any comments you may have about the magazine. Gary Gimson Publisher Cirka magazine

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Tirsigan Koboca Dhaqaalaha ee Soomaaliyada Cusub Soo dhaweyn. Ku soo dhawaada tirsiga koowaad ee Cirka – Joornaalka diyaaradda ee Jubba Airways. Joornaalku waxa laga shaqaynayay muddo dhowr bilood ah waxaanan rumaysanahay inuu yahay daabacaddii ugu horraysay ee ugu tayada sarraysay ee Soomaaliya loogu talagalay. Haba yaraato e, Cirka waxay u taagan tahay tallaabo hore loogu qaaday dalka iyo tusaale fiican oo muujinaya sida Soomaaliya ay u noqonayso meel adduunka intiisa kele ka mid ah. Run ahaantii, Soomaaliya waxay ku talajirtaa inay noqoto meelaha loo dalxiis yimaaddo. Badaha diirran ee geeska afrika, xeebaha cidlada ah iyo dhaqanka adag ee qiimaha leh ayaa Soomaaliya ka dhigaya mid qiimo gaara leh. Cirka waxay eegaysaa horumarka ay Soomaaliya iyo Somaliland ka samaynayaan arrinkan. Ilaa hadda, meelaha aad loo yaqaano ee dalxiiska ugu weyni waa godadka Laas-Geel ee Hargeysa ka baxsan, kuwaas oo si gaar ah aynu ugu soo qaadannay tirsigan. Calaamad kele oo muujinaysa inay wax waliba hagaageen waxa weeyaan suuqa dhulka. Tirsigan koowaad ee joornaalku waxa uu falanqayn doonaa waxa hadda socda, waxaanuu eegi doonaa waxa ay tahay in la iibsado iyo meesha laga iibsanayo.

Haddii aynu ku soo dhawaano qaybta dhismaha, Cirka waxa ay wax ka qoraysaa Rashiid Cali oo bandhig weyn ku qabtay London kaas oo uu ku soo bandhigay qaar ka mid ah dhismayaashii xilligii gumaystaha ee Muqdisho. Inagoo eegayna naqshadaynta dhismaha halkii aynu dib u socon lahayn, qorshe lagu dhisayo rugta buugaagta ee Muqdisho ayaa isaguna socda. Haddii ay jirto calaamad muujinaysa degganaansho, dhaqan iyo ilbaxnimo, mashruucan ayaa ah mid muujinaya calaamaddaas. Cirka waxay diiradda saaraysaa sidii rugtaas buugaagta loo dhisi lahaa. Waxa kele oo aynu milicsan doonnaa baabuurka cusub ee BMW X5 ee raaxada, joogitaanka Eka Hotel ee Nairobi iyo goobaha wax laga cuno ee heerka sare ah ee magaalada. Waxaan rajaynayaa inaad ka heli doontaan tirsigan ugu horreeya ee Cirka, fadlan igala soo xidhiidha wixii aad talo ah eek u saabsan Joornaalka.

Gary Gimson Soo Saare Cirka magazine

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The experience Jubba Airways strives to cater to its passengers’ needs by combining economical rates and traveller convenience with great customer care.

Did you know? Jubba Airways will be operating additional flights from Dubai during the summer.

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Affordable prices Customers can fly from Nairobi to Mogadishu from just AED 624 and from Nairobi to Hargeisa from AED 991. You had better get packing! jubbaairways.com

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TOURISTDESTINATION

D

eserted beaches, warm crystal-clear seas and the magical powers of a searing African sun. Taken together, these are what many tourists dream of as they wearily trudge to work and seek to escape northern Europe’s chilly, dark and unforgiving winters. So, on the face of it, Somalia, blessed with the longest coastline of any country in Africa and the Middle East, an abundance

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of sunshine, soft-sand beaches and endless ocean vistas, has the key ingredients for a successful tourism industry. Yet in 2012 only about 500 tourists officially chose to come to Somalia, making it the world’s least visited nation after the remote Pacific island of Nauru, which apparently welcomed a meagre 200 tourists in 2011.

Perceptions Of course, the reasons for Somalia’s apparent lack of popularity are well known. But Somalia is changing and so are its global perceptions. And from such low tourist arrival figures, the only way is up. Clearly, the Somali Tourism Association (SOMTA) has its work cut out if it hopes to raise the nation’s profile as a destination. At least SOMTA has a website and, somewhat surpris-

ingly, a Facebook page with over 300 ‘likes’. That’s a good start. In terms of misplaced images, it is sometimes forgotten that Somalia is more than just desert and scrub. Here is a destination with hidden treasures for those willing to seek them out. In addition to its six national parks, Somalia contains historical cities, a rich culture, superb cuisine, rarely visited mountains and, of course, those inviting and deserted beaches. The six national parks Daallo Mountain, Hargeisa, Hobyo, Jilib, Kismayo (which in terms of wildlife viewing offers a similar visitor experience to those found elsewhere in East Africa) and Lag Badana are not in great condition and need investment to bring them up to world standards. The wildlife in these protected areas includes various endemic species such as the

silver dik-dik, the Somali golden mole and subspecies of skinks and lizards as well as Ash’s lark and the Obbia lark. And each park has a different story to tell. At the same time and in particular, Somaliland’s tourism industry is growing, albeit slowly (arrivals are already up year on year), but is being held back by its lack of international recognition. 

On the beach

Sunset over the Indian Ocean

Here is a destination with hidden treasures for those willing to seek them out

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Pic courtesy of Somaliland Travel & Tours

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TOURISTDESTINATION

Horn of Africa’s best-kept secret Cal Madow is a mountain range in north-eastern Somalia, extending from west of Bosaso to north-west of Erigavo. The highest point in the range is Shimbiris, north-west of Erigavo, with an elevation of about 2,500 metres. Before the war, Cal Madow was a popular tourist destination. Cal Madow and the adjacent areas contains richer array of wildlife than elsewhere in Somalia.

Pic courtesy of Somaliland Travel & Tours

The area is home to some of the rarest of Somalia’s endemic bird species such as linnets, pigeons and golden-winged grosbeaks and over 1,000 plant species (around 200 of which are endemic). Various types of wildlife such as the now vulnerable beira (a small antelope) can also be found in Cal Madow along with several subspecies of gazelle.

‘We have an 850 km coastline with lots of pristine beaches and beautiful coral reefs’

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Hargeisa is currently served by a handful of airlines (including, of course, Jubba Airways) and some major carriers have expressed an interest in doing so.

Potential Clearly the tourism potential exists. Says Abdinasir A. Ibrahim of Somaliland Travel & Tours Agency (STTA): “Somaliland has a good deal to offer to tourists. We have an 850 km coastline with lots of pristine beaches; beautiful coral reefs, unique archaeological sites, rare birds and mammals, fabulous mountain ranges, and a yearround sunny, warm climate. I believe that as soon we get international recognition, then tourists will flock to our stunning beaches (around Berbera) to swim at the mouth of the Red Sea.” He adds: “It’s nothing less than Somalilanders deserve.”


GoobahaDalxiiska

Waxa ku sugaya dhulkii Badda iyo Cadceedda

Pic courtesy of Somaliland Travel & Tours  The other side of Somalia

Wildlife and beaches

Xeebo bannaan, bado nadiif ah oo diirran iyo quwaddii mucjisada ahayd ee cadceedda Afrika. Marka la isla helo, intaasi waa inta in badan oo ka mid ah dalxiisayaashu ay niyadda ku hayaan marka ay ku dadaalayaan inay u shaqaystaan si ay uga baxsadaan qabowga, madowga iyo jiilaalka aan naxayn ee waqooyiga Yurub. Sidaa darteed, Soomaaliya oo Ilaahay ku mannaystay inay yeelato xeebta ugu dheer Afrika iyo bariga dhexe, udub dhexaadka cadceedda, xeebo ciiddoodu fududdahay iyo mowjado badeed oon kala go’ lahayn ayaa dalka ka dhigaya mid haysta dhamaan wixii looga baahnaa dalxiis aad u sarreeya. Haddana sanadkii 2012, keliya waxa dalka yimid 500 oo dalxiise, taas oo ka dhigaysa Soomaaliya inay tahay dalka ugu dalxiiska yar marka laga tago jasiiradda baasifigga ku taal ee Nauru, taas oo sannadkii 2011 kii ay booqdeen 200 oo dalxiise. Dabcan, waa wax la og yahay sababta aanay dad badani u soo booqan Soomaaliya. Laakiin Soomaaliya way is beddelaysaa, fikirkii laga haystayna sidoo kele wuu is beddelayaa. Sida keliya ee tirade hoosaysa ee dalxiisayaasha looga baxayaana waa in kor loo socdo. Waxa cad ururka dalxiisayaasha Soomaaliyeed (SOMTA) waa in ay shaqadeeda kala qaybiso haddii ay rabto in ay kor u qaaddo sumcadda qaranka. Ugu yaraan SOMTA waxay leedahay website iyo bog Facebook ah oo 300 oo qof ay ku jiraan. Waa bilow wanaagsan. Marka laga hadlayo suuradda sida xun loo dhigay, waxa mararka qaarkood la iloobaa in Soomaaliya aanay ahayn uun dhul saxaare ah iyo kayn. Waa goob ay ku duugan yihiin macdano ay soo arki karaan kuwa doonaya inay ogaadaan. Marka lagu daro lixda beeraha xayawaanka ah, Soomaaliya waxay leedahay magaalooyin taariikhi ah, dhaqan ballaadhan, cunto heer sare ah, buuro aan aad loo booqan iyo dabcan xeebaha cidlada ah ee kuu baaqaya. Lixda beer xayawaan ee Buurta Daallo, Hargeysa, Hobyo, Jilib, Kismaayo (oo marka duur-joogta laga hadlayo laga helo qaar la mid ah kuwa laga helo dalalka kele ee geeska afrika) iyo Lag Badana maaha qaar xaaladdoodu fiican tahay waxaanay u baahan yihiin maalgashi si kor loogu qaado oo loo gaadhsiiyo heerka caalamiga ah. Xoolaha duur-joogta ah ee goobaha la ilaaliyay joogta waxa ka mid ah qaar sii dabar go’aya sida sakaarada iyo qaar kele oo badan mid walibana

wuxuu leeyahay qiso u gaar ah. Sidoo kele, gaar ahaan Dalxiiska Somaliland waa mid kobcaya, inkasta oo uu gaabinayo (dadka imanayaa sannad kasta kor bay u sii kacayaan) waxaase dib u dhigaya isagoo dalku weli aanuu helin ictiraaf caalami ah. Hargeysa waxa ka shaqeeya diyaarado badan (marka lagu daro Jubba Airways), diyaarado kele oo waaweyn ayaa iyaguna muujiyay inay rabaan inay iyaguna yimaaddaan. Waxa cad in suuragalnimada dalxiisku ay jirto. Sidaa waxa yidhi Cabdinaasir A Ibrahim oo ka tirsan xafiiska dalxiiska iyo safarka ee Somaliland (STTA): “Somaliland waxay leedahay waxyaalo badan oo dalxiiska ku wanaagsan. Waxaanu leenahay xeeb dhererkeedu dhan yahay 850km oo leh xeebo dihin, qawyo qurux badan, goobo taariikheed wanaagsan, shimbiro aan aduunka kele laga helin, buuro aad u qurxoon iyo qorrax taagan sannadka oo dhan. Waxaan rumaysanahay marka ugu horraysa ee aanu helno ictiraaf caalami ah, in dalxiisayaashu ay u soo tartami doonaan xeebahayaga quruxda badan (ee Berbera) si ay ugu dabbaashaan badda cas”. Waxa uu intaa ku sii daray: “Intaa in ka yar oo ay reer Somaliland u qalmaan ma jirto”.

Sirtii Qarsoonayd ee Geeska Afrika Cal Madow waa buur ku taalla waqooyi-bari Soomaaliya, waxay ka bilaabataa galbeedka Boosaaso ilaa Waqooyi-galbeed ee Ceerigaabo. Goobta ugu sarraysaa waa Shimbiris oo ku taalla waqooyi-galbeed Ceerigaabo, waxaanay dhulka ka sarraysaa ilaa 2500 oo mitir. Dagaalka ka hor, Cal Madow waxay ahayd meel caan ku ah dalxiiska. Cal Madow iyo meelaha ku dhow waxay caan ku yihiin xayawaan duur-joog ah oo kala duwan kuwaas oo aan laga helin meel kele oo Soomaaliya ah. Goobtaasi waxay hoy u tahay qaar ka mid ah shimbiraha qaaliga ah ee sii dabar go’aya ee Soomaaliya iyo ilaa kun geed oo dhirta aan meel kele laga helin ah. Noocyo badan oo ka mid ah duur-joogta ayaa iyagana laga helaa Cal Madow iyadoo sidoo kelena laga helo noocyo kele oo badan oo garanuug ah.

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Somalia has changed for the better and the property market is now reflecting this vastly improved picture By Gary Gimson

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BUYINGPROPERTY

I

t’s a fact. Property prices in Somalia and Somaliland are on the up – and, if realtors are to be believed, they are set to continue on a sharp upward trajectory. Owing to the fact that Somalia has been relatively peaceful for more than a year now, many Somalis are coming home – and in large numbers.

vastly improved picture. Those who got into the market early are now reaping their reward. Investors who bought a piece of land for, say, US$ 10,000 back in 2007 would probably have seen a fivefold increase in its value by 2014. Says property expert Liban Hassan Tohob of Himilo Homes: “The market has slowed down a bit in the last six months, but it’s expected to rise again after Ramadan.” But where to buy? “The best places are in the centre of Mogadishu mainly Km 4, near the airport, Liido and in the major markets like Bakaaro and Suuq Ba’aad. Investors have been purchasing acres of land at a time called Goof as it sometimes consists of about 200 to 10,000 possible homes just on the outskirts of the city. Investors are looking for this type of

Buying property the Somali way These often wealthy returnees need somewhere to live and are buying properties. In turn, this is ramping up prices across much of the country and especially in Mogadishu. It may seem incredible, but villas in the swankier parts of Mogadishu are now selling for millions of dollars – even though, countrywide, a decent-sized four- or five-bedroomed house would be expected to sell for only between US$ 40,000 and US$ 75,000. In short, Somalia has changed for the better and the property market is now reflecting this

land because they know the city will be moving outwards once it’s full.”

Estates There are plenty of new villas being built up and down the country and brand-new private estates with ocean views are under construction north and south of Mogadishu. “Investors are even paying the full amount upfront and before a stone is laid,” claims Liban. It’s not only Somalis who are snapping up vacant land. Non-Somalis are also getting in on the act. “It’s absolutely wise

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BUYINGPROPERTY

Holiday homes In addition to a growing number of returnees, more and more Somalis among the diaspora are buying holiday homes. This may seem an extravagance, but over time it may be a money-saving option. People normally buy a house if they are sure of how long they are going to stay in one place or if there is a chance of coming back frequently in the future. A realtor from agents Somestate told Cirka: “When you buy your own house, you are no longer spending money every month on rent, and you can stay for however long you choose each time you visit. Your extended family, relatives and friends can visit you in your house, yet you can still have your privacy. “Most of the new houses being built or recently built in Hargeisa, Burco and Berbera are on the outskirts of the city, especially large villas, so it’s relatively calm and quiet. Once you buy your house, and it’s furnished, you can come back to the region as often as you like and not have to worry about where you are going to stay. The property is also an investment in itself, so its value will appreciate over time.” Of course, property buying has its downsides. The first is that properties come unfurnished, so owners need to buy everything. Then there’s the question of security. Absent owners need to have security for the premises all year round. It’s not possible just to build a house, live in it during vacations and then lock it up for the rest of the year. This applies not only to houses; a car also has to be guarded when you are away, even if it’s only for a few days.

for foreigners to buy here,” says Liban. “As a matter of fact, many foreigners have made purchases – mainly Mogadishu and its outskirts. It’s mostly Turkish, Italian, Indian, English and Chinese firms and individuals that have made purchases and continue to look for investment opportunities and, of course, not forgetting those from neighbouring African countries.” This is wonderful news, of course. But every silver lining has a cloud. Somalia and Somaliland still lack proper banking systems. So when a vendor sells a property or someone obtains a large amount of money, this money has to be stored somewhere and the options are limited. One method is to start a business, but not everyone has the business acumen or the patience or can handle the risks involved.

So what are people doing with the money from a property sale or when they have cash? Putting their cash back into property, of course. And this is combined with an anticipation that property values will continue to increase – factors that are now driving up prices.

Economy But Somalia is traditionally a cash economy. “Most purchases are paid in cash up front because most banks don’t offer mortgages and are not allowed to charge interest for religious reasons,” says Liban. “And the legal side is taken care of by notaries who check ownership and all the paperwork and will give a guarantee that they will refund the full purchase amount if the ownership was falsified.” Then there is the issue of disputation. Apart from what

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looks like a real-estate bubble, increases in property values are causing serious disputes. This is because Somalia and some parts of Somaliland do not have a property land registry and there is no mechanism to provide people with the proper documents to prove ownership.

Disputes These disputes occur between families, neighbours and even whole regions. And some of these land disputes can escalate into violence. There is a Somali saying, ‘ku qabso ku qadimayside’ which translates as ‘dispute with him, you won’t go hungry’. In this way, some people are starting land disputes with the rightful owners just to make a profit for themselves. These disputes can drag for months in the courts; and with unemployment rates so high, these property agitators have all

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the time in the world. The nonexistent property registry also gives them a chance, however small, to actually win a case. Liban, however, is super-optimistic, both about the property and Somalia as a nation. “For me, I am returning to Somalia after 20 years’ absence, having left as a 10-year-old and having lived in the UK. It’s absolutely safe to live and do business in Somalia. My friends and I are out for dinner most nights and until late. There are even concerts every weekend here in Mogadishu.” Somalia, then, has great potential and amazingly strong capital growth projections. But tread warily.

There is a Somali saying ‘ku qabso ku qadimayside’ which translates as ‘dispute with him, you won’t go hungry’


IIBKA DHULKA

Dariiqa Soomaalida ee Iibka Dhulka Waa xaqiiqo in qiimaha dhulka ee Soomaaliya iyo Somaliland uu yahay mid aad u sarreeya, hadii dadka dhulka ka ganacsada la rumaystana, qiimahaasi waa mid kor u sii kacaya. Iyadoo Soomaaliya ay ahayd mid nabadgelyadeedu ay ka soo raynayso muddo hadda sannad ka badan, Soomaali badan ayaa dalka ku soo noqonaysa. Dadkaas oo ah qaar lacag haystaa waxay u baahan yihiin meel ay ku noolaadaan waxaanay iibsanayaan dhul. Taas beddelkeedana waxa kor u sii kacay qiimihii dhulka dalka intiisa badan gaar ahaan Muqdisho. Waa laga yaabaa inay u muuqato mid aan macquul ahayn, laakiin guryaha fiillooyinka ah ee ku yaalla meelaha qaaliga ah ee Muqdisho waxa lagu iibinayaa malaayiin dollar. Inkasta oo guud ahaan dalka guriga wanaagsan ee afarta ama shanta qol ah qiimihiisu oo joogo 40,000 ilaa 75,000 oo dollar. Soomaaliya way ka soo raynaysaa suuqa kala iibsiga dhulkuna wuxuu ina tusayaa uun xaaladda is beddeshay. Dadkii suuqaa galay muddo hore ayaa maanta ka faa’idaya. Dadkii maal-gashaday dhulka ee ku iibsaday tusaale ahaan 10,000 dollar sannadkii 2007 waxay arkeen inuu shan goor libinlaabmay sanadkan 2014. Waxa uu yidhi Liibaan Xasan Toxob oo u shaqeeya Himilo Homes: “Suuqu lixdii bilood ee ugu dambaysay hoos buu u dhacay, laakiin waxa la rajaynayaa inuu mar labaad kor u kaco marka Ramadan dhamaato”. Laakiin xaggee dhulka laga iibsadaa? “Meelaha ugu wanaagsani waa badhtamaha Muqdisho gaar ahaan KM 4, agagaarka madaarka, xeebta Liido iyo suuqyada waawayn sida Bakaaraha iyo Suuq Bacaad. Maalgashatadu waxay iibsanayaan dhul aad u ballaadhan xilliga goofka la yidhaahdo iyadoo marmarka qaarkood uu yahay dhul ay ka dhismi karaan 200 ilaa 10,000 oo guri daafaha magaalada. Maalgashadayaashu waxay isha ku hayaan dhulka noocan oo kele ah waayo waxay og yihiin in magaaladu marka ay buuxsanto ay halkaa soo gaadhi doonto”. Waxa jira guryo badan oo dhismahoodu ka socdo dalka, guryo cusub oo gaar ah oo badda ku jeeda ayaa iyaga gacanta lagu hayaa imika waqooyiga iyo koonfurta Muqdisho. “Maalgashadayaashu waxay bixinayaan qiimaha oo dhamaystiran ka hor inta aan dhismahaba la bilaabin” ayuu yidhi Liibaan. Maaha soomaalida oo keliya kuwa iibsanaya dhulka bannaan. Dadka aan soomaalida ahayn ayaa iyaguna hawshan ku jira. “Waa arrin

aad u wanaagsan inay ajnabiguna iibsadaan meeshan” ayuu yidhi Liibaan. “Runtii, ajnabi badan ayaa iibsaday – gaar ahaan Muqdisho iyo hareeraheedaba. Waxay u badan yihiin Turki, Talyaani, Hindi, Ingiriis iyo Chinese intaba kuwaas oo isugu jira shirkado iyo askhaasba kuwaas oo raadinaya fursasho maalgashi, sidoo kele, waxa iyaguna jira qaar ka socda dalalka afrikaanka ah ee deriska”. Kani waa war wanaagsan dabcan, laakiin nimco waliba nuqsaanteeda ayay leedahay. Soomaaliya iyo Somaliland weli ma laha nidaamka bangiyada. Sidaas darteed, marka qofku uu iibiyo dhulk, ama qof uu helo lacag aad u badan, lacagtaas waa in qofku meel ku kaydsadaa, wax kele oo uu yeeli karo ayaana iska yar. Waxyaalaha uu samayn karo waxa ka mid ah inuu ganacsi ku bilaabo, laakiin qof waliba ma wadi karo ganacsiga oo ama samirkeeda ma laha ama khataraha uu wato ma maarayn karo. Haddaba maxay dadku ku sameeyaan lacagta ay dhulka ku iibiyaan ama marka ay kaash haystaan ? waxay lacagtooda dib ugu celiyaan dhulka. Taasina waxay u sameeyaan iyagoo filaya in qiimaha dhulku uu kor u sii kici doono – xaqiiqooyinka haddaba qiimaha kor u kiciyay. Laakiin Soomaaliya dhaqan ahaan waxay leedahay dhaqaale lacageed. “Inta badan Iibka waxa lagu bixiyaa lacag kaash ah waayo bangiyada badankoodu ma bixiyaan dayn loomana oggola dulsaar arrimo xagga diinta ah awgeed” ayuu yidhi Liibaan “Qaybta sharcigana waxa qaabilsan nootaayooyin kuwaas oo hubiya lahaanshaha iyo dhamaan wixii waraaqo ah iyagoo ballan qaadaya in lacagtaada dib laguugu soo celin doono haddii lahaanshuhu uu been noqdo”. Intaas ka dib waxa jira arrinka dhulka la isku haysto. Marka laga yimaaddo xaamiga suuqa dhulka, korodhka qiimaha dhulku waxay sababeen in dhulkii la isku qabsado. Taas waxa u sabab ah Soomaaliya iyo qaybo ka mid ah Somaliland ma laha meel lagu diiwaan geliyo lahaanshaha dhulka mana jirto hab dadka lagu siiyo waraaqaha rasmiga ah ee lahaanshaha dhulka. In dhulka la isku qabsado waxay ka dhex dhacdaa dad ehel ah, deris ah iyo gobollo dhan. Qaar ka mid ah dhulkaa la isku haysto ayaa sabab u noqda dagaal. Waxa jirta maahmaah tidhaahda “Ku qabso ku qadi mayside”, sidaas darteed dadka qaarkood ayaa si ula kac ah ugu qabsada qofkii dhulka lahaa si ay waxoogaa macaash ah uga helaan.

Dhulka la isku qabsadaa wuxa uu maxkamadaha ka socda muddo dhowr bilood ah; iyadoo shaqo la’aantuna ay aad u badan tahay, dadkaa dhulka isku haystaa waxay hayaan wakhti aad u badan. Diiwaangelinta dhulka oo aan jirin ayaa iyaduna siinaysa fursad yar ama mid ay ku guulaystaanba. Liibaan waxa uu aad ugu rajo weyn yahay dhulka iyo dalka Soomaaliya labadaba. “Anigu Soomaaliya Ayaan ku soo noqday ka dib 20 sannadood oo aan ka maqnaa, anigoo dalka ka baxay markay da’daydu ahayd 10 sanno, isla markaana ku noolaa dalka Ingiriiska. Waa ammaan in lagu noolaado isla markaana laga ganacsado Soomaaliya. Aniga iyo asxaabtaydu waxaanu u baxnaa casho inta badan habeenkii ilaa xilli dambe. Waxa xataa ka jira bandhig faneedyo lagu qabto Muqdisho toddobaad walba”. Soomaaliya waxay leedahay dhaqaale adag oo ay u muuqado inuu soo korayo.

Guryaha Fasaxyada Marka lagu daro kor u kaca tirada dadka dalka ku soo noqonaya, soomaali badan oo qurbajoog ah ayaa iibsanaya guryaha lagu dalxiiso. Taasi waxay u muuqataa mid talax tag ah laakiin wakhti dhow waxa laga yaabaa inay tahay fursad lacagta lagu ilaaliyo. Dadku sida caadiga ah waxay iibsadaan guri haddii ay hubaan muddada ay joogayaan meel keli ah ama haddii ay jirto fursad ay had iyo goor dib ugu soo noqnoqonayaan mustaqbalka. Mid ka mid ah dadka dhulka ka ganacsada ee Somestate ayaa Cirka u sheegay: “Marka aad iibsato guri aad iska leedahay ma jirayso lacag bil kasta kaaga baxaysa kiro, waxaanad degganaan kartaa inta aad doonto mar kasta oo aad dalka soo booqato. Reerkaaga, qaraabada iyo asxaabtuba waxay kugu soo booqan karaan gurigaaga, adigoo weliba ku qabsan kara hawlahaaga gaarka ah”. “Inta badan guryaha cusub ee dhawaan laga dhisay Hargeysa, Burco iyo Berbera waa qaar ku yaalla duleedka magaalada, gaar ahaan guryaha waaweyn, waana meel deggan oo aamusan. Marka aad gurigaaga iibsato ee la qalabeeyo, waxaad ku soo noqon kartaa gobolka mar kasta oo aad doonto adiga oo aan ka warwarayn meesha aad degi doonto. Dhulka laftiisu waa maalgashi, qiimihiisuna waa mid mar uun la mahadin doono”. Dabcan, iibsiga dhulku wuxuu leeyahay dhibaatadiisa. Marka ugu horraysa maaha qaar qalabaysan, qofka iibsanayaa markaa waa inuu iibsadaa wax kasta oo guriga la dhigayo. Waxa Isna jira arrinka nabadgelyada. Dadka guryaha leh ee debedda ku maqani waa inay samaystaan cid guriga u ilaalisa sannadka oo dhan. Suuragal maaha inaad guri dhisato, ku noolaato muddada fasaxaaga ka dibna aad qufusho inta sannadka ka hadhay. Tani ma khusayso guryaha oo keliya; baabuurkana waa in la ilaaliyaa marka aad maqan tahay, xataa haddii ay tahay maalmo keliya.

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PROFILE: RASHIDALI

T

he recent London exhibition ‘Mogadishu – Lost Moderns’ was aimed at changing people’s perceptions of Somalia. It was part of an ongoing research project co-curated by the Somaliaborn architect Rashid Ali and the British photographer Andrew Cross. “I was born in Somalia and left with my family for the UK at age 11,” explains Rashid Ali. “I went back to Mogadishu primarily to gather material for this exhibition.” Owing to the bad press Somalia often receives in the mainstream media, Rashid was anxious about returning, not only for his safety and that of his collaborator, but also because he wondered in what sort of condition he might find a city that he had not visited in 24 years. “There were a lot of emotions initially,” says Rashid. “But you adjust quickly and try to understand the city from the condition you find it.” Despite the many talented Somalis living at home and abroad, the nation’s instability affords few if any opportunities for architects. Commissioning civic buildings is still on the back burner. In the UK, Rashid is both a lecturer in architecture and urban design at the University of Liverpool School of Architecture, and principal of the Londonbased architecture and design studio RA Projects. But although he lives and works in England, he still

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Rashid Ali


City’s ‘forgotten’ heritage of inspiring architecture Having recently returned to Mogadishu, the city of his birth, architect Rashid Ali put on an exhibition in London aimed at changing perceptions of Somalia. He spoke to Cirka about Mogadishu’s urban history, the buildings which defined the city’s skyline, and his hopes for its future redevelopment.


PROFILE: RASHIDALI has strong cultural ties with his homeland. “There is a lot to be done learning about Mogadishu’s rich history in different disciplines,” says Rashid. “So I am sure I will return to learn more and share the little knowledge I have gained by undertaking this project.”

Overlooked In addition to Somalia’s lessthan-favourable coverage in the mainstream media, its architectural history – especially that of its ‘lost’ modern history – has been widely overlooked. “Very few people know of the fact that Mogadishu had city plans with incredible infrastructure and civic buildings at a time when cities such as New York and London didn’t have any,” says Rashid. “Buildings of similar architectural styles were going up in the West at the same time as in Mogadishu, so it gives a sense of a particular experience or encounter with modernity that took place in Mogadishu, particularly in the first half of the 20th century, and nothing or very little is written or known about it.” With his deep sense of history, Rashid is concerned about the lack of initiatives in Somalia to preserve its heritage, and the absence of international intervention. “The concept of cultural heritage didn’t even exist in Somalia before the civil war, and it was very much overlooked by international agencies such as Unesco at the time.” He believes the situation is more difficult now after the years of civil conflict. How will issues such as these be practically addressed? “I am a strong believer in cultural strategies that emphasise the importance of buildings, sites of heritage and architectural value,” he says. “And, of

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course, heritage preservation will require resources, and there is very little of that at the moment. But one can begin by drawing up a list of important sites to be protected and educating citizens through the media.” The pictures in the exhibition reveal that, despite the devastation, some of the most important buildings remain intact – a fact long known to Somalis.

Legacy Rashid explains how his project, ‘Mogadishu – Lost Moderns’, will help re-evaluate Somalia’s forgotten architectural legacy. It will help to raise awareness internationally and at home. “Unfortunately, in Mogadishu, there is neither the knowledge nor the political vision and will to address these issues. But I am hopeful this will happen in the near future as the city becomes more stable economically and politically. “Before you begin to consider heritage preservation, it’s useful to have some form of knowledge on the importance of this process so that you may articulate it to

Still intact

Ripe for redevelopment

citizens as well as policymakers.” Those architects and intellectuals living among the diaspora no doubt hope to return to Mogadishu one day to assist the reconstruction and redevelopment of the city. Rashid understands how important it is to draw upon Mogadishu’s rich architectural history going forward. “Even if some buildings are sadly no longer among us, we can at least remember those that we have lost and learn from those which still remain.”

‘There is a lot to be done learning about Mogadishu’s rich history in different disciplines’ He concludes: “In a world where cities are beginning to look the same and monotonous, I hope that Mogadishu will retain some of its distinctive historical, social, spatial and cultural characteristics and that this will in some way influence the content and character of its future development.”


Muuqaal: Rashid Ali

Dhaxalka Magaalada ee la Illoobay ee dhismaha bilicda leh Markii uu dhawaan ku noqday Muqdisho, magaaladii uu ku dhashay, Injineer Rashid Ali waxa uu bandhig ku qabtay London taas oo ujeedadu ahayd in lagu beddelo fikirka ay dadku ka haystaan Soomaaliya. Waxa uu waraysi siiyay Cirka uu kaga hadlayo taariikhda magaalo ee Muqdisho, dhismayaasha magaalada qurxiyay iyo rajada uu ka qabo dib u horumarinta magaalada ee mustaqbalka. Bandhigii dhawaan lagu qabtay London ee loogu magac daray “Mogadishu – lost Moderns” ama “Bilicdii luntay ee Muqdisho” waxa ay ujeeddadiisu ahayd in wax lagaga beddelo fikirka ay dadku ka haysteen Soomaaliya. Waxa uu qayb ka ahaa cilmi-baadhis socotay oo ay iska kaashadeen Rashid Ali iyo Sawir qaadaha Ingiriiska ah ee Andrew Cross. “Waxaan ku dhashay Soomaaliya waxaanan reerkayga u raacay dalka Ingiriiska markay da’daydu ahayd 11 jir” ayuu yidhi Rashid Ali. “Waxaan ku noqday Muqdisho si aan uga soo ururiyo qalab aan ku qabto bandhiggan”. Isagoo tilmaamaya sawirka ay saxaafadda caalamku ka bixiyo Soomaaliya, Rashid waxa uu ka baqayay inuu dalka ku soo noqdo, keliya maaha amaaankiisa iyo cidda la shaqaynaysa, laakiin sidoo kele wuxuu ka werwersanaa sida uu xaalku yahay”, waxa laga yaabaa inuu tago magaalo aanuu booqan muddo 24 sannadood ah. “Dareenkaygu aad buu u kacsanaa markii hore” ayuu yidhi Rashid “Laakiin markiiba waad la qabsanaysaa waxaanad isku dayaysaa inaad fahanto ka fahanto magaalada xaaladda aad ugu timid”. Marka laga tago dadka Soomaalida ah ee xirfadda leh ee ku nool dalka gudihiisa iyo debeddiisaba, degganaanshaha dalku waxa uu fursad aad u yar siyaa dadka guryaha dhisa. Iyadoo la eegayo sida

Mogadishu of old  How things were

dhismayaasha guryaha casriga ah uu ugu dambeyo dalku. Dalka Ingiriiska, Rashid waxa uu jaamacadda Liverpool ka dhigaa cilmiga Architecture ka, laakiin inkasta oo uu ku nool yahay kana shaqeeyo dalka Ingiriiska, waxa uu weli leeyahay dhaqan adag oo ku xidhaya dalkiisii hooyo (waxa uu rajaynayaa inuu cilmi baadhistiisa sii wado). “Waxa jira wax badan oo ay tahay in laga barto taariikhda mugga weyn ee Muqdisho” ayuu yidhi Rashid, “Markaa waan hubaa inaan ku noqonayo si aan wax badan uga barto in yar oo aqoontaa aan ka soo bartay ka mid ahna aan dadka ula wadaago, waxaanan taas ku helay intii aan waday mashruucan”. Marka lagu daro in Soomaaliya tahay wax aanay aad u xiisayn warbaahinta caalamku inay ka warramaan, taariikhdeeda dhismaha gaar ahaan tan ah taariikhdii cusbayd ee luntay iyada lagamaba warramin. “in yar oo dadka ka mid ah baa og in Muqdisho ay lahayd nidaam magaalo iyo dhismayaal cajiib ah wakhti magaalooyinka kele sida New York iyo London aanay lahayn dhismayaashaas” ayuu yidhi Rashid. “Dhismayaasha sida farshaxanka leh loo dhisay waxay ka socdeen dhanka reer galbeedka isla wakhtigaas ay iyadana ka socdeen Muqdisho, sidaa darteed waxay siinaysaa khibrad gaar ah ama waxay la falgashay ilbaxnimadii ka hanaqaadday Muqdisho, gaar ahaan qaybtii hore ee qarnigii labaatanaad, wax aad u yar baana laga qoray arrinkaas”. Isaga oo adeegsanaya aqoontiisa taariikheed ee aadka u xeel dheer, Rashid wuxuu ka werwersan yahay in aanay jirin dadaal loogu jiro sidii loo badbaadin lahaa taariikhdaas iyo iyada oo aanay jirin faragelin caalami ahi toona. “Fikirka ah Dhaqanka dhaxalgalka ahi kamuu jirin Soomaaliya ka hor dagaalkii sokeeya, si aad ah ayaanay isaga indho tireen hay’adihii caalamig ahaa ee xilligaasi sida UNESCO oo kele”. Waxa uu rumaysan yahay in xaaladdu ay imika aad u adag tahay ka dib sannado badan oo dagaal sokeeye lagu soo jiray. Haddaba sidee ayaa arrimahan

wax looga qaban karaa ? “Waxa aan aad u rumaysanahay istaraatiijiyadaha dhaqanka ah ee awoodda saara muhiimadda dhismayaasha, goobaha taariikhiga ah iyo qiimaha dhismayaasha” ayuu yidhi. “Iyo dabcan ilaalinta goobaha taariikhiga ahi waxay u baahan yihiin awood dhaqaale, wax aad u yar baana loo hayaa maanta. Laakiin qof baa ku bilaabi kara inuu sameeyo liiska meelaha muhiimka ah ee ay tahay in la ilaaliyo isagoo isla markaana adeegsanaya saxaafadda si uu dadka wax uga baro. Sawirrada bandhiggu waxay daaha ka faydeen, iyadoo uu jiro burburkaasi, haddana qaar badan oo ka mid ah dhismayaashii ugu muhiimsanaa inay weli jiraan – xaqiiqo in badan lagu ogaa Soomaalida. Rashid waxa uu sharraxayaa sida mashruuciisa “Muqdisho – Ilbaxnimadii la illoobay” uu gacan uga gaysanayao dib u eegista taariikhdii duugga ahayd ee dhismayaasha Soomaaliya ee la illoobay. Waxa ay ka caawin doontaa in la sameeyo wacyi gelin caalami ah iyo mid dalka ahba. “Nasiib darro magaalada Muqdisho ma jiro aqoon iyo siyaasad hadafkeedu yahay inay arrimahan wax ka qabato. Laakiin waxaan ku rajo waynahay inay taasi dhici doonto mustaqbalka dhow iyadoo magaaladu ay marba marka ka dambaysa ay dhaqaale ahaan iyo siyaasad ahaanba xasilayso. “Ka hor intaanad bilaabin inaad ilaaliso goobaha taariikhiga ah, waxa muhiim ah inaad aqoon u leedahay qiimaha ay hawshani leedahay iyadoo markaa laga yaabo inaad u gudbiso dadka shicibka ah iyo kuwa siyaasadda dejiya labadaba”. Kuwa injineerrada ah iyo aqoon yahanka ku dhex nool qurbajoogta ee rajaynaya inay dib ugu noqdaan Muqdisho maalin maalmaha ka mid ah si ay gacan uga geystaan dib u dhiska iyo horumarka magaalada. Rashid wuxuu fahansan yahay muhiimadda ay leedahay in la sameeyo taariikhda dhismayaasha Muqdisho sidii ay hore ugu socon lahayd. “Xataa hadii dhismayaasha qaarkood ay burbureen, waxa aynu xasuusan karaynaa inay inaga baaba’een waxaanaynu wax ka baran karaynaa kuwa weli taagan”. Waxa uu ku soo gebagabeeyay: “Adduunyadan oo magaalooyinkii ay noqonayaan qaar isu wada eg oo foolxun, waxaan rajaynayaa in Muqdisho ay soo ceshan doonto qayb ka mid ah taariikhdeedii gaarka ahayd, bulsho, ruuxi iyo dhaqan kuwaas oo si uun raad ugu yeelan doona horumarkeeda mustaqbalka”.

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MOGADISHuLIBRARY

ReBUILT LIBRARy WILL BOOST SOMALI PReSTIge

I

n order to live, said the Roman philosopher Cicero, people need only a garden and a library. This is not true, of course, so don’t try it. But libraries are still ranked among our most important public institutions. Twenty-two years after the Siege of Sarajevo, the national library of Bosnia-Herzegovina has reopened following a lengthy process of restoration. It was considered a matter of civic duty to rebuild the library, not only because of its unique architecture but also because of its historical significance. The library overlooks the very spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated on 28 June 1914, triggering the First World War.

Inspired The success of the Bosnian project has inspired a similar scheme in Mogadishu. With help from the Somali diaspora and forward-thinking officials, the national library will be one of the first buildings in the city to be redeveloped. After that, there are plans to build or reopen more libraries across the country as part of an ongoing project. Preliminary work has already begun on the building and fencing has been put up around the site. This is a challenging project. But, despite the risks, it is considered a vital part of efforts to restore the nation’s confi-

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dence and self-sustainability. Somalia has a predominantly oral tradition of preserving history that is now being eroded by changing lifestyles. The fear is that, without the aid of literacy, huge portions of the nation’s history will be lost.

The rate of growth in literacy has been stunted by the problems of recent years The country has about 50,000 students at various levels of education, yet not a single library. The rate of growth in literacy has been stunted by the problems of recent years and, according to project director Zainab Hassan, students are being left without books to learn from. In response to this crisis, both the United States and various Arab nations have gifted hundreds of thousands of books to Somalia. In its present state of neglect, the old library in Mogadishu is being used to provide shelter for dozens of families – something perhaps of more immediate help than books to those who have lost their livelihoods. In the greater scheme of things, and contrary to Cicero’s view, reading comes below food and shelter on people’s list of priorities.

A key project  A library in the making


RUgTA BUUgAAgTA ee MUQDIShO Rugta Buugaagta oo dib loo dhiso waxay kor u qaadaysaa sharafta Soomaalida Faylasoofkii reer Roma ee Cicero wuxuu yidhi, dadku waxa keliya ee ay u baahan yihiin waa beer iyo maktabad. Dabcan taasi run maaha ee ha tijaabin. Laakiin maktabadaha waxa lagu qiimeeyaa waxyaalaha ugu muhiimsan ee dadku u baahan yihiin. Laba iyo labaatan sannadood ka dib markii magaalada Sarayeefo la go’doomiyay, maktabadda qaranka ee Bosnia ayaa dib loo furay iyadoo taasina qaadatay hawl aad u dheer sidii dib loogu soo celin lahaa. Waxa loo arkay inay tahay waajib bulsho in dib loo dhiso maktabadda, maaha keliya inay tahay mid wax u dhigmaa aanuu jirin laakiin waxa kele oo ay leedahay mudnaan taariikhi ah. Maktabaddu waxay ku soo jeeddaa meeshii Archduke Franz Ferdinand ee reer Austria lagu dilay 28 kii June 1914 waana halkuu ka bilaabmay dagaalkii koowaad ee dunidu. Guusha uu gaadhay mashruucaa reer Boosniya waxa uu yididiilo geliyay Muqdisho. Iyagoo garab ka helaya qurbajoogta Soomaalida iyo madaxda sida fiican u fekera, maktabadda qaranku waxay noqon doontaa mid ka mid ah dhismayaasha magaalada ugu horreeyay ee dib u habaynta lagu samaynayo. Intaas ka dib, waxa jira qorshayaal lagu dhisayo ama dib loogu furayo maktabado badan dalka oo dhan kaas oo qayb ka ah mashruuc hadda socda. Shaqada inteedii hore waxay ka bilaabatay dhismaha, dayrkiina waa lagu soo wareejiyay goobta maktabadda.

Pics courtesy of Heritage Staff Plan design by engineer Abdirizak

Waa mashruuc caqabaddiisa iska leh, laakiin marka laga tago khatarahaasi, waxa loo arkaa inuu yahay qayb muhiim ah oo ka mid ah dadaalka loogu jiro in dib loo soo celiyo kalsoonida iyo in uu dalku ahaado mid waara. Soomaalidu waxay leedahay dhaqan afka la isku gaadhsiiyo taariikhda taas oo hadda is beddeshay qaab nololeedka is beddelaya awgeed. Waxa laga cabsi qabaa haddii aan suugaanta loo gargaarin, in badan oo dalka taariikhdiisa ah in ay lunto ama la waayo. Dalka waxa jooga ilaa 50,000 oo arday oo ku kala jira qaybo kala duwan oo waxbarashada ah, haddana weli ma jirto maktabad keli ahi. Qiyaasta koritaanka aqooneed waxa dib u dhigay dhibaatooyinkii jiray sannadiii ugu dambeeyay, sida ay aaminsan tahay guddoomiyaha mashruuca, Saynab Xasan, ardaydu ma haystaan buugaag ay wax ka akhristaan. Si haddaba dhibtan looga jawaabo, dowladda Maraykanka iyo dalal ka mid ah Carabtuba waxay Soomaaliya ugu deeqeen boqollaal kun oo buug. Sida hadda uu u dayacan yahay, maktabaddii hore ee Muqdisho waxa hoy ka dhigtay boqollaal reero ah – kuwaasoo u baahan gargaar degdeg ah oo ka badan ka buugaagta ka dib markii ay waayeen wixii ay ku noolaan lahaayeen. Marka si guud loo eego, iyo milicsiga hadalkii uu yidhi Cicero, akhrisku wuxuu yimaaddaa ka dib marka dadku ay helaan hoy iyo cunto oo ah kuwa nolosha ugu muhiimsan.

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LASGAAL

Heritage tourism can protect cave paintings 24

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ometimes the best way to preserve historical monuments is to leave them alone. Over-commercialisation has deprived many a well-known monument of its aura, cheapened its meaning and redefined it as a kind of semi-educational playground for hordes of indifferent schoolchildren. In 2003 the world awakened to the wonder of Somaliland’s Laas Gaal Cave Paintings, and, incidentally, the promise of a marketable tourist attraction. With their undiminished brilliance, elegance and historical significance, these paintings rank among the finest rock paintings in Africa. In this case, no tourist board or charitable organisation can take credit for their remarkable state of preservation; it is due entirely to the dry climate and some 5,000 years of freedom from meddling mankind.

Respectful

 Cave painting

Ancient art

Local people have lived by this ancient cave respectfully for generations. For them it is a sacred place, not to be disturbed. After all, according to folklore, it is the dwelling places of spirits. But now, with the traditional ways of pastoral life under threat, as the nomadic peoples of Somaliland abandon their ancient territories, the cave’s protection may be threatened by this new exposure and the vested interests contending for it. Despite Laas Gaal’s proximity to Hargeisa, nobody guards its premises, there is no informa-

tion centre to welcome tourists, no one has installed wheelchair ramps, and there are no ‘craft’ stalls outside with massproduced souvenirs. Of course, unlike in an art gallery, visitors cannot easily run off with a chunk of rock. But, with the caves unguarded, the threat of damage – even by a child innocently touching the paintings – needs to be addressed seriously. Organisations such as Unesco and the Trust of African Rock Art (TARA) officially protect some of the more vulnerable sites across the continent. Former United Nations Secretary General Kofi Annan called for African leaders to acknowledge these risks, saying: “Africa’s rock art is severely threatened. Its future is uncertain. Perhaps the greatest threat is neglect. A lack of resources, combined with a lack of official interest, has left too many rock art sites unguarded against vandals and thieves. It is time for Africa’s leaders to take a new and more active role. We must save this cultural heritage before it is too late.” Unesco took the initiative of casting some of the Sahara Desert’s ancient engravings and exhibiting them abroad, so as not only to preserve them, but also to draw international attention. Rock art seems so primordially connected with its geological surrounding that to display it out of context in this way is to render it meaningless. Extreme measures were taken to protect some of Europe’s cave sites. The Chauvet

cave paintings in France are the oldest in the world, at 32,000 years, but since their discovery in 1993 they have been sealed off, not just to tourists but to academic researchers. Not only is the European climate harmful to these paintings, but so too is contact with human breath.

Ancient At the similarly ancient Lascaux caves, contamination linked with tourism caused the paintings to be covered with a green mould. More recently, in 1998, the Lascaux cave paintings were contaminated once again by a new air conditioning system installed for their protection. Human intervention has had a negative impact on various caves sites around the world Given that Laas Gaal is not going to be left in peace, action must be taken to ensure its

Local people have lived by this ancient cave respectfully for generations

Pics courtesy of John Enos johninsomaliland.wordpress.com

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Laas-Geel

Dalxiiska Dhagalgalka ahi wuxuu ilaaliyaa Godadka Xardhan

safety and responsible upkeep. The site would be an immensely popular tourist attraction if it was anywhere else in the world, and any government would automatically be prompted to conserve it.

Stability Thanks to the region’s stability, more visitors are now travelling to Somaliland. But in a nation with fewer than 500 visitors per year in 2012, according to UN statistics, can we really expect to see a significant level of non-domestic tourism to Laas Gaal? There are plans to promote heritage tourism in Somaliland. These are to be welcomed, not just economically, but because they would necessitate the conservation of the caves. Neglect may indeed have been a blessing for the paintings of Laas Gaal; but their future popularity and accessibility will be a blessing for humanity.

 A national treasure

Tourist site in the making

Mararka qaarkood sida ugu wanaagsan ee loo ilaaliyo goobaha taarikhiga ahi waa in sidooda loo daayo. In ganacsi laga dhigaa waxay baabiisay qiimaha goobahaasi, macanaheediina raqiis bay ka dhigtay waxaanay u bedeshay waxa carruurtu dugsiyada si ciyaar ah wax loogu baro. Sannadkii 2003, adduunku wuxuu ku baraarugay mucjisooyinka godadka xardhan ee Laas-geel ee Somaliland ku yaalla iyo sida ay u yihiin suuq soo jiidan kara dalxiisayaasha. Marka la eego bilicdooda aan dhamaan, quruxdooda iyo taariikhda ku duugan, sawirradaasi waxay ka mid yihiin kuwa ugu wanaagsan qaaradda Afrika. Sidaas darteed, guddi dalxiis ama hay’ad madaxbanaan oo sheegan karta ilaalinta godadkaasi ma jirto, waxa keliya ee ilaaliyay waa cimilada engegan iyo ilaa shan kun (5000) oo sannadood oo ay xor ka ahaayeen faragelinta bani aadamka. Dadka deegaanku waxay muddo qarniyo ah si qaddarin leh ugu noolaayeen goobahan taariikhiga ah. Iyaga waxay u tahay goob barakaysan oo aan la taaban Karin. Sida sheeko-baraleydu sheegtay waa goob ay rooxaantu deggan tahay. Laakiin imika, iyadoo noloshii reer miyigu ay sii dabar go’ayso, iyada oo dadkii reer miyiga ahaa ee Somaliland ay dhulkoodii taariikhiga ahaa ka baro kacayaan, ilaalintii godadkaasi waa mid khatar ugu jirta is beddelka noloshan cusub iyo danaha soo kordhaya ee laga leeyahay. Marka laga tago masaafadda ay Laas-geel u jirto Hargeysa, cid ilaalisaa ma jirto, ma jirto goob macluumaadku yaallaan oo dalxiisayaasha lagu soo dhaweeyaa, ma jirto cid u samaysay jidkii baaskeelka curyaanku mari lahaa, mana laha goobaha lagu soo bandhigo waxyaalaha taariikhiga ah. Dabcan sida sawirrada kele, dadka booqdayaasha ahi iskama qaadan karaan dhagaxaanta. Laakiin maadaama aan godadkaas la ilaalinayn, in waxyeello ay soo gaadho haba ahaato caruurta oo sawirrada taabata e waa mid u baahan in degdeg wax looga qabto. Ururrada ay ka mid yihiin UNESCO iyo TARA ayaa si rasmi ah u ilaaliya qaar ka mid ah meelaha ugu qiimaha badan ee dunida. Xogyahiyii hore ee qaramada midoobay, Kofi Canaan ayaa ugu baaqay madaxda afrika inay fahmaan khatartan isagoo yidhi: “Goobaha taariikhiga ah ee Afrika khatar ayay ku sugan yihiin. Mustaqbalkooduna ma cadda. Khatarta ugu weyni waa in la dayacao. Awood aan loo hayn iyo dan rasmi ah oo aan laga lahayn ayaa ka dhigtay meelo badan oo taariikhi ah mid u furan

dembiilayaasha iyo tuugta. Waxa la gaadhay wakhtigii madaxda afrika ay arrinkan ka qaadan lahaayeen kaalin mug leh. Waa in aynu badbaadino dhaxalgalkan inta aanay baabi’in”. UNESCO waxay bilowday inay qaaddo oo ay debedda ku soo bandhigto qaar ma mid ah raadadka taariikhiga ah ee bananka saxaaraha ee afrika, maaha inay ilaaliso oo keliya laakiin inay sidoo kele ku soo jeediso indhaha caalamka. Dhagaxaanta xardhan waxa uu ku xidhan yahay juqraafiyadda dhulka ku xeeran soo bandhigideeduna waa in sucaddeedu aanay hoos u dhicin. Tallaabooyin adag ayaa la qaaday si loo ilaaliyo goobaha taariikhiga ah ee qaaradda Yurub. Godadka xardhan ee Chauvet ee Faransiisku waa kuwa ugu da’da weyn adduunka, waxay jireen 32 kun oo sannadood laakiin ilaa markii la helay sannadkii 1993 xayndaab ayaa lagu wareejiyay, lagama xidhin dalxiisayaasha oo keliya, waxa sidoo kele laga xidhay cilmi baadhayaasha. Cimilada Yurub oo keli ahi dhibaato kuma hayso goobahaas, sidoo kele waxa dhibaato ku haya falgalka bani aadamka. Sidoo kele godadka taariikhiga ah ee Lascaux ee kuwan la midka ah ayaa wasakhaaddeeda lala xidhiidhinayaa dalxiisayaasha halkaasi tegayay kuwaas oo sababay in sawirradii ay tirtirmaan. Muddo dhawayd sannadkii 1998 godadka xardhan ee Lascaux mar kele ayay ku wasakhoobeen qaboojiyayaal loogu xidhay si iyaga loogu dhowro. Faragelinta bani’aadamku waxa ay waxyeello xun u geysatay goobo taariikhi ah oo badan oo dunida ku yaalla. Iyadoo Laas-geel aanay ahayn meel sidaa lagaga tegayo, waa in tallaabo la qaadaa si loo ilaaliyo. Goobtaasi waxay noqon lahayd goob caan ku ah oo la ciirciiraysa dalxiisayaal haddii ay dal kele ku oolli lahayd, dowlad walibana waxa ay ku khasbanaan lahayd inay ilaaliso. Waxa mahadda leh nabadgelyada ka jirta gobolka, dalxiisayaal badan ayaa imika u safraya Somaliland. Laakiin dal ay dadka soo booqdaa sannadkii ka yar yihiin 500 oo qof tusaale ahaan 2012 kii, sida qaramada midoobay ay sheegtay, miyaynu ka filaynaa inaynu aragno dalxiiska caalamiga ah ee Laas-geel inuu noqdo mid kordhaya ? Waxa jira qorshayaal lagu horumarinayo dalxiiska Somaliland. Qorshayaashaas waa in la soo dhaweeyaa, maaha dhaqaale ahaan oo keliya, laakiin sidoo kele waxay khasab ka dhigayaan in godadkaas la ilaaliyo. In la dayacay waxa laga yaabaa inay uba fiicnayd sawirrada Laas-geel; laakiin in mustaqbalka ay caan noqoto lana booqan karo ayaa sharaf u ah bani aadamka oo dhan.

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CITYGUIDE Hargeisa

Second city delights

H

Vlad Galenko - Shutterstock.com

argeisa is Somalia’s second-largest city after Mogadishu. In colonial times Hargeisa had also been the capital of the British Somaliland protectorate, which later joined the former Italian Somaliland to form what is now Somalia. Because it is part of an area formerly controlled by the United Kingdom,

 Heading for town

Vibrant colours

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English is widely spoken and understood in Hargeisa. At the same time, the local population retains extremely close ties with the UK, where large and very active communities from Somaliland are now resident. Delightfully situated at 1,300 metres above sea level, Hargeisa has a much more moderate and agreeable climate than, say, Berbera at the coast.

What’s more, the city has been untouched by Somalia’s troubles of recent years. Today it is an amazingly safe and thriving metropolis with a population of around 1.2 million. Following a recent construction boom, Hargeisa now has several international standard hotels, many of which were built with finance provided from the diaspora.


Where to stay:

 A bright future

Ambassador Hotel: Conveniently located on Airport Road, close to the international airport, this is one of Hargeisa’s finest hotels. Rates include breakfast and free Wi-Fi.

Happy faces

Vlad Galenko - Shutterstock.com

Safari Hotel: Smart, clean, well presented and newly built, the Safari Hotel has attractive room rates and offers cable TV and a good restaurant. Maan-Soor Hotel: Popular with NGOs, the United Nations and business visitors, the MaanSoor Hotel is less than 20 minutes from the international airport. For a weekend break at the coast, there is a sister property in Berbera. Oriental Hotel: Close to government offices and with the Hargeisa gold souk on its ground floor, the Oriental is one of the city’s oldest properties. It has an air conditioned courtyard where meals and drinks are served. Free internet and wholesome food. Crown Hotel: Built in the early 1990s on the west side of the city, the Crown Hotel has a well earned reputation for good service, comfort and food.

Delightfully situated at 1,300 metres above sea level, Hargeisa has a much more moderate and agreeable climate than the coast jubbaairways.com

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CITYGUIDE 

Market life

Vegetables for sale

Where to eat: Ambassador Hotel: The restaurant at the Ambassador is probably the best in Hargeisa. Prices are extremely reasonable by international standards. Situated in a pleasant garden, the restaurant offers spot-on service from the tuxedo-wearing staff. The kebabs and steak are recommended. Ming-Sing Restaurant: Reported to be Somalia’s only Chinese restaurant, the Ming-Sing was formerly in Mogadishu but moved to Hargeisa some time back. Despite being a Chinese restaurant, the Ming-Sing serves a variety of cuisine including local dishes and Thai and Indian-style food. Oriental Hotel: Good food and inexpensive prices in the hotel’s restaurant. Highly recommended. Amina Café: A mix of restaurant, café and alcoholfree nightspot, the Amina often features live music and is a popular haunt for tea-drinking locals. Maan-Soor Hotel: The restaurant attached to the hotel on M Warsame Road is one of Hargeisa’s best loved. Good for all-day dining, with breakfast, lunch and dinner menus. It can get busy at weekends.

What to see: Without being in any way uncomplimentary, it’s fair to say there is very little in the way of tourist sights and associated activities in Hargeisa. Visitors will find the town-centre market of special interest and it is fascinating for foreigners to see the varied range of local produce being sold by eager traders. And just outside town is a bustling camel market. What Hargeisa lacks in visitor sights is more than made up for by the friendliness of the local people, who always seem pleased to see foreigners in their city. It is generally safe to get around and local people are helpful and welcoming to visitors. One recommendation is to visit Laas Geel, on the outskirts of Hargeisa, where the cave paintings are thought to be some of the best preserved in Africa. It is also worth noting that visitors planning to leave the city must be accompanied by a government security guard.

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Tilmaamaha Magaalada Hargeysa

Wanaagga Magaalada Labaad

Vlad Galenko - Shutterstock.com

Hargeysa waa magaalada labaad ee ugu weyn Soomaaliya marka Muqdisho laga yimaaddo. Wakhtigii gumeysiga, Hargeysa waxay ahayd caasimadda dhulkii Somaliland ee maxmiyadda Ingiriiska, taas oo markii dambe ku biirtay qaybtii talyaanigu gumaysan jiray oo ay markaa isku noqdeen Soomaaliya. Iyada oo ahayd meel Ingiriisku xukumi jiray, luqadda Ingiriisida ayaa aad looga hadlaa la iskuna fahmaa Hargeysa. Isla markaana dadka deggani waxay xidhiidh dhow la leeyihiin dalka Ingiriiska halkaas oo ay deggan yihiin bulsho firfircoon oo reer Somaliland ahi. Iyadoo heerka joogga badda ka sarraysa 1,300 oo mitir, Hargeysa waxay leedahay cimilo dhexdhexaad ah oo wanaagsan marka loo eego Berbera oo xeebta ku taalla. Waxa sii dheer, magaaladu waxa ay ka badbaadday dhibaatooyinkii ka sannadahan dambe dalka Soomaaliya. Maanta waa waa goob ammaan ah isla markaana horumarsan oo ay ku nool yihiin in ku dhow hal milyan iyo laba boqol oo kun oo qof. Iyada oo dhismaha magaaladu uu beryahan dambe aad u badan yahay, Hargeysa waxay imika leedahay tiro hudheello heer caalami ah kuwaas oo qaar badan oo ka mid ah lagu dhisay lacagaha qurbajoogta.

Goobaha la dego: Ambassador Hotel: Waxa uu ku yaallaa waddada Madaarka, wuxuu aad ugu dhow yahay madaarka caalamiga ah. Waa mid ka mid ah huteellada ugu wanaagsan Hargeysa. Qiimaha waxa ku jira quraac iyo Internet bilaash ah. Safari Hotel: Waa mid qurux badan, nadiif ah, si fiican loo naqshadeeyay, dhawaanna la dhisay. Safari Hotel wuxuu leeyahay qiime macquul ah oo ku soo jiidanaya waxaana uu leeyahay TV cable ah iyo qayb cunto ah oo wanaagsan. Maansoor Hotel: Waxa uu can ku yahay Hay’adaha caalamiga ah, qaramada midoobay iyo qanacsatada booqashada ku jooga. Maansoor hotel wuxuu u jiraa madaarka in ka yar 20 daqiiqo. Haddii aad rabto inaad jimcaha ku qaadato xeebta, waxa uu qayb kele ku leeyahay magaalada Berbera. Oriental Hotel: Wuxuu u dhow yahay xafiisyada dowladda waxaana halkiisa hoose ku yaalla suuqa dahabka ee Hargeysa. Oriental hotel waa dhismayaasha ugu da’da weyn ee magaalada. Waxa uu leeyahay barxad qabow oo aad ka heli karto cunto iyo cabitaan. Waxa kele oo uu leeyahay Internet bilaash ah iyo cunto wanaagsan.

Vlad Galenko - Shutterstock.com

Crown Hotel: Waxa la dhisay bilowgii sagaashanaadkii waxaanuu ku yaallaa dhinaca galbeed ee magaalada. Crown hotel wuxu caan ku yahay adeeg wanaagsan, raaxo iyo cunto.

Goobaha laga cunteeyo: Ambassador Hotel: Qaybta cuntada ee Ambassador waa ka ugu wanaagsan Hargeysa. Qiimuhu waa mid macquul ah marka loo

eego heerka caalamiga ah. Waxa uu ku yaallaa beer qurux badan. Hudheelku waxa uu leeyahay adeeg degdeg ah oo ay fidiyaan shaqaale dirays xidhan. Cuntada Kebaabka iyo isteegga ayaa wanaagsan. Ming-Sing Restaurant: Waxa la weriyaa inuu yahay hudheelka keliya ee Chinese ah ee Soomaaliya ku yaalla. Ming-Sing waxa uu ku oolli jiray Muqdisho laakiin wuxuu u soo wareegay Hargeysa markii dambe. Marka laga tago inuu yahay hudheel Chinese ah, Ming-Sing wuxuu bixiyaa cuntooyin kala duwan oo ay ka mid yihiin kuwa dalka, Thai iyo cunto Hindi intaba. Oriental Hotel: Cunto wanaagsan iyo qiime raqiis ah ayuu leeyahay hudheelka qaybtiisa cuntadu. Aad baa loo ammaanay. Amina Café: Waa isku jir qayb cunto, café iyo meel habeenkii lagu caweeyo. Amina café waxa ay leedahay heeso iyo muusig live ah, waxaanay caan ku tahay dadka soomaalida ah ee shaaha cabba. Maan-Soor Hotel: Qaybta cuntada ee huteelku leeyahay ee ku taalla jidka M Warsame waa mid ka mid ah kuwa Hargeysa loogu jecel yahay. Waxay ku wanaagsan iyadoo maalinta oo dhan cunto laga helo sida quraacda, qadada iyo cashada. Xilliyada jimcayaasha aad bay mashquul u tahay.

Vlad Galenko - Shutterstock.com

Meelaha oo daawasho tago: Iyadoo aan xumaan looga jeedin, waxa la odhan karaa Hargeysa way ku yar yihiin meelaha dalxiisayaasha soo jiita ee loo daawasho yimaaddo. Dalxiisayaashu waxay xiiseeyaan inay daawadaan suuqa badhtamaha magaalada waxaana soo jiita ajnabiga daawashada waxyaalaha kala duwan ee dalku soo saaro ee ganacsatada yaryari ay iibinayso. Marka magaalada laga sii baxayana waxa ku yaalla suuqa geela. Waxyaalaha Hargeysi aanay lahayn ee dadka booqanaya soo jiita waxa beddel u ah dadka deegaanka oo had iyo goor ku raalli ku ah inay magaaladooda ku arkaan dad ajnabi ah. Guud ahaan magaaladu waa ammaan aad iska socon karto dadka deegaankuna waa qaar caawiya oo soo dhaweeya dalxiisayaasha. Talo ahaan waa inaad soo booqato Laas Geel, oo magaalada ka baxsan halkaas oo ay ku yaallaan godad la xardhay oo la rumaysan yahay inay yihiin kuwa ugu wanaagsan Afrika. Sidoo kele waa muhiim inaad ogaato dalxiisayaashu markay magaalada ka baxayaan inay kaxaystaan askari dowladda ka tirsan.

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WHERETOSTAY Eka Hotel, Nairobi

This business hotel ticks all the boxes By Gary Gimson

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ot so long ago, Nairobi seemed unable to offer one decent businesstype hotel outside its often busy central business district. But those with a generous expense account are now spoiled for choice and can select from a tempting range of contemporary-style executive hotels in and around the city and away from the joyless congestion of the CBD. The pick of the bunch, and

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certainly the most conveniently located, is the Eka Hotel on Mombasa Road, just a short hop in a taxi from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.

Unfussy For one thing, I really like the smart, unfussy simplicity of its rooms. As a business traveller, this is just what I’m looking for. I need a good, clean, sharplooking room with somewhere to park my laptop. So there’s complimentary Wi-Fi (I wonder

what hotel now charges for this service) and DSTV on an impressively large flat screen. In the morning I love the easyto-use and totally drenching rain shower followed by Eka’s all-toohealthy breakfast. For me, Eka

I like the smart, unfussy simplicity of the rooms. As a business traveller, it’s just what I’m looking for


www.ekahotel.com

Eka Hotel, Nairobi

Hudheelkani waa mid wax kasta laga helo

ticks all the boxes. I’m not quite so keen, though, on the glass walls of the bathroom. Maybe I’m just shy. The hotel has three levels of accommodation: superior room, junior suite and executive suite. All come with minibar, coffeemaking equipment and hairdryer. The executive suites (priced rack at US$ 399) come with a pair (no less) of flat-screen TV sets, a bathtub seemingly built for Usain Bolt and a sitting room. Eka has another key factor in its favour. Like the Southern

Sun Mayfair way across town in Parklands, the hotel has a Spur franchise where they serve up mouth-watering steaks and finger-licking ribs. Who would want to go anywhere else on Mombasa Road on a wet Tuesday evening – or any other time, for that matter? In Nairobi’s increasingly crowded mid-market business hotel sector, the in-house Spur is the clincher for me – that and, of course, the short drive from the airport.

Stylish

Right on Mombasa Road

Muddo aan sii fogeyn, Nairobi waxay u ekayd mid aan lahayn hudheel ganacsi oo ka baxsan xarunta ganacsiga ee mashquulka badan. Laakiin dadka lacagta badani waxa ay hadda haystaan inay kala doortaan hudheello badan oo aad u qaali ah oo magaalada ku wareegsan kana baxsan cidhiidhiga badhtamaha magaalada. Ka ugu wanaagsan, isla markaana meesha ugu fiican ku yaalla waa Eka Hotel oo ku yaalla jidka Mombasa (Mombasa Road), kaas oo tagsiga kaa soo qaada madaarka Jomo Kenyatta uu wax yar kugu geyn karo. Waxa aan ka helay quruxda iyo muuqaalka sahlan ee qolalka. Marka aan ku jiro safar shaqo, kani waa ka aan raadinayo. Waxaan u baahanahay qol wanaagsan, nadiif ah isla markaana aan ka helayo meel aan laptop kayga aan dhigan karo. Waxa kele oo la socda Internet bilaash ah iyo DSTV aad ka daawanayso muraayad aad u weyn. Subaxdii waxaan jecelahay qubayska sida sahlan loo isticmaalo iyo quraacda caafimaadka leh. Anigu sida aan u arko, Eka waa mid wax kasta ku wanaagsan. Laakiin kuma qanacsani gidaarrada quraaradda ah ee qolka qubayska ku yaalla. Waxa laga yaabaa inaan anigu ahay mid xishood badan. Hudheelku wuxuu leeyahay seddex heer oo hurdo ah: Qol heer sare ah, qol caadi ah iyo midka madaxda. Dhamaantood waxay leeyihiin baar yar, qalabka qaxwaha lagu sameeyo iyo ka timaha engejinaya. Qaybta madaxdu (oo qiimahoodu yahay 399 Dollar) waxa ku yaalla laba shaashad TV oo waaweyn, sinxiga lagu qubaysto oo u eg mid loogu talagalay Usain bolt iyo qolka fadhiga. Eka waxa kele oo uu leeyahay Spur franchise sida kii Southern Sun Mayfair oo kele kaas oo lagu sameeyo steak aad u macaan iyo feedho aad faraha isku goosanayso. Markaasoo kele yaa u baahanba inuu tago meelo kele oo jidka Mombasa ku yaalla habeen Salaasa ah oo roobna uu da’ayo ? Marka loo eego suuqa dhexe ee cidhiidhiga ah qaybta huteellada ganacsiga, Spur ka ku yaalla huteelka dhexdiisa ayaan doorbidayaa iyo weliba masaafada gaaban ee uu u jiro madaarka.

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DINEOUT Golden Spur at the Southern Sun Mayfair, Nairobi

great-value treat for your taste buds

By Gary Gimson

T

here is one place in Nairobi I just can’t resist, no matter how hard I try. And I’m not the only one. My friend, a seasoned Italian restaurateur and hotelier, shared my passion when he lived in Nairobi and ate here a couple of times a month. It’s delicious and down-toearth, it’s not pricey, it’s not fancy and it’s certainly not nouvelle cuisine. And the place is probably in the wrong setting. Yet for excellent plain fare at reasonable prices with superfast and efficient service, I believe there is nowhere in Nairobi that compares with the Golden Spur at the Southern Sun Mayfair in Parklands. And that’s why I keep coming back month after month.

Classy I know it doesn’t seem to fit in with the classy image of the Southern Sun and I’m not sure why this Spur restaurant ever opened in the hotel. What’s more, the phoney Wild West decor will not appeal to everyone’s taste, especially when it’s part of a delightful colonial-style property such as the Southern Sun Mayfair. I have tried Spur restaurants

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in Gaborone and Kampala and, sadly, they just don’t match the Southern Sun-based outlet. By the way, and as an alternative, the Eka Hotel on Mombasa Road has a Soaring Eagle Spur. Previously, a Silver Spur existed at The Village Market but, inexplicably, that restaurant failed to take off and the site is now occupied by an Artcaffe. If I had to choose my favourite dish, it would be the 600 g ribs (popularly available in ‘all you can eat’ form on Thursdays). But I would also recommend the delicious 300 g ‘fillet grande’ steak and, although on the expensive side, the 600 g king prawns with peri peri sauce. At KES 490, the buffet salads are also

surprisingly good and a whole lot healthier that the ribs and steak. What keeps me coming back, however, is the consistency of the food. It never disappoints. And when you order a meal it tastes exactly like it did the last time you ate there. A rare treat.


Golden Spur oo ku yaalla Southern Sun Mayfair

Goob Cunto oo Wax kasta laga helo Waxa jira meel keliya oo Nairobi ku taalla oo naftaydu aanay ka adkaysan Karin si kasta oo aan isugu dayo. Arrinkaasina aniga oo keliya iguma koobna. Saaxiibkay oo ah qof Talyaani ah oo hudheelle ah ayaa ila wadaaga dareenkan markii uu ku noolaa Nairobi oo uu meeshaa wax ka cuni jiray bishiiba laba mar. Waa cunto macaan oo aad u wanaagsan, qiimaheedu qaali maaha, mid heer sare ahna maaha, mana aha mid had iyo goor caafimaad ahaan u fiican (inkastoo saladhku uu fiican yahay). Goobta ay ku taallaana maaha mid ku habboon. Haddana marka la eego qiimaha macquulka ah, degdegga iyo adeegga wanaagsan waxaan rumaysanahay in aanay Nairobi ku oollin meel u dhinganta Golden Spur oo ku taalla Southern Sun Mayfair ee Parklands. Taas ayaa sababtay inaan inaan ku soo noq-noqdo bil kasta. Waan ogahay inaanay ku habboonayn sawirka quruxda badan ee ay Southern Sun leedahay. Waxa ka sii daran, waxyaalaha lagu xardhay ee qadiimka ahi maaha qaar qof waliba jeclaysanayo, gaar ahaan marka ay noqoto qayb ka mid ah dhulka u samaysan qaabka gumaystayaashii hore sida Southern

Sun Myfair oo kele. Waan tijaabiyay hudheellada Spur ee ku yaalla Gaborone iyo Kampala laakiin ma gaadhayaan kan ku yaalla Southern Sun qaybta Nairobi. Eka hotel ee ku yaallaa jidka Mombasa waxa uu leeyahay Spur aad u wanaagsan. Markii hore Silver Spur ayaa ku yaallay Village Market laakiin hudheelkaasi muu noqon mid hirgala waxaana hadda meeshiisii ku yaalla Artcaffe. Haddii ay noqoto inaan doorto cuntada aan ugu jecelahay, waxay noqon lahayd 600 oo garaam oo feedho ah (oo caan ku ah hudheellada waxaad doonto cun ah ee khamiista la furo). Laakiin waxa kele oo aan ku talin lahaa 600g king prawns oo la soo raaciyo suugo peri peri ah. Qiime ah 490 shilinka kiiniya ah, saladhka ayaa aad u wanaagsan aadna uga caafimaad badan feedhaha iyo isteegga. Waxa mar kasta I soo celceliya waxa weeyaan cuntada oo aan is beddelin. Marna kama niyad jabaysid. Marka aad cunto dalbatana waxay dhadhamaysaa sidii ay ahayd markii ugu dambaysay ee aad cuntay. Waa sooryo tirsan.

www.spurcorp.nl/spur/Kenya

Tasty ď ž Great steaks

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CARREVIEW BMW X5

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Updated and ready to ride BMW’s original sport utility vehicle, the X5, has been updated recently; and while it’s dependable transport with a solid build and plenty of room, there is more capability to be discovered. >>

Car-like handling on-road, good ground clearance off-road, smooth styling and excellent build

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CARREVIEW

Big and stylish  King of the road

BMW waa gaari isboorti oo original ah nooca loo yaqaan X5, waana la cusbooneysiiyay, sidoo kale waa gaari la isku haleyn karo, gudihiisana leh nafaas, waxyaalo intaa ka badane leh. Ninku marka uu saas u firiyo dhulka carada ah oo balaaran, wuxuu ku jeestaa saaxiibadiis oo u farta ugu fiiqaa gaariga soo socda, markaasuu yiraahdaa walee taasu waa arin ku xiiso gelindoonta. Markii gaarigu soo dhex maro caradii badneyd, ayuu yiraahdaa taanu macquul ma ahan in BMW ey soo dhex marto caro saas u badan, lakiin way soo dhex martay. Garigaan BMW awoodu uu eleyahay inuu si sahal ah u maro meelo aan laami ahayn ayaan in badan oo iska leh gariigaas aan ogeyn. Wax yaalaha gaarigaan lagu jecelyahay ayaa ah sida uu ugu fiicanyahay laamiga, meelaha aan laami aheyn, sida raaxada badan iyo muuqaalkiisaba. Marka aad fiirisid bambarka hore nooca loo disayn gareyay wuxuu kale oo ka dheereyaa beeqaaminta shidaalka boqolkiiba 17 jeer baabuurta kale.

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Awoodiisa matoor sidoo kale waxay kaalmeysaa kartidiisa, tusaale BMWgu wuxuu leeyahay sadex turbo oo marka u dhaqaaqayo ku kaalmeysa inuu islamarkiiba si deg deg ah ku gaari karo 100 kilometer sacadiiba in ka yar 5.3 daqiiqo. Sidoo kale wuxuu caan ku yahay naafaas iyo raaxo. Sidoo kale nooca loo yaqaan sportiga aad buu ugu ficanyahay. Wuxuu sidoo kale awood u leeyahay inuu dhaqsi jiha kale u leexan karo, dhaqsina usii socon karo. Gudihiisa waxaa lagu sharxay waxyaalo qurxiya, meelo wax la gashto oo waasic ah iyo koobka shaaha meesha la dhigto. Shekada dhabtana waxay ku duugan tahay iDrive controllerka uu leeyahay. Awooda adigoo gaariga wada aad isticmaali kartid, waraaqna qori kartid, telephoon wici kartid. Uma baahnid inaad ku mashquusho iskriinka asagaa garan waxa aad rabtid inaad qorto marka aad bilawdo. Kuraastiisu haraga ah sahal baa loo nadiifin karaa, quruxna waa dhameyay.

S

taring across the sand, the man turns to his friend and points to the approaching car. “This’ll be interesting,” he says with a smile. But his mirth turns to incredulity as the car gets closer, churning up the sand. There was no way a BMW should have got through that. But it did. Its off-road ability is a hidden quality of the BMW X5 that most owners don’t know about. This is no ‘soccer mum’ car. The X5 is capable enough to ensure it won’t faint at the sight of a pebble.

Handling Car-like handling on-road, good ground clearance off-road, smooth styling and excellent build have always been among the appealing qualities of the


BMW X5

changes direction with minimal body roll and inspires confidence to press on. The steering could use more feel, although the suspension makes up for any misgivings with a brilliant ride. Inside, the changes from the previous X5 are subtle. There are the usual cosmetic enhancements including new chrome trim, larger storage areas and cup holders.

Navigation

Interior quality  Leather trim

X5. So why update it? One word: efficiency. The scalloped design of the front bumper, small cut-outs behind the wheel arches and tiny flaps before each wheel reduce drag, making the X5 about 17 per cent more fuel-efficient across the range.

But the real story is saved for the iDrive controller. It now features a ‘touch-capacitive’ top, so that with a finger you can ‘write’ letters on the dial and it will narrow down lists like an address book or a navigation destination. No need to watch the screen; as long as you scribble a letter or number, the system is smart enough to recognise the character. Easy-clean leather seats, superb traction control, a huge trunk, roof rails and proper off-road ability; whether it’s camping in the desert or traversing mountains to a ski resort, the X5 is absolutely built for getting away from it all. www.bmw.co.uk/X5

Efficiency Turbochargers also help with efficiency. The X5 M50d, for example, has three turbochargers instead of the usual one or two. The set-up virtually eliminates turbo lag but allows a 0 to 100 km per hour sprint of just 5.3 seconds. Not bad for a spacious, luxury SUV. It also handles as well as a sports saloon. Take hold of the chunky steering wheel and you’ll swear you’re driving something that weighs 500 kg less. It

BMW X5 M50d

BMW X5 xDRIVE50i

Consumption

Consumption

Urban (ltr/100km)

7.6

Urban (ltr/100km)

14.0

Extra-urban (ltr/100km) 6.2

Extra-urban (ltr/100km) 8.3

Combined (ltr/100km)

6.7

Combined (ltr/100km)

10.4

CO2 emissions (g/km)

177

CO2 emissions (g/km)

244

Tank capacity (ltr)

85

Tank capacity (ltr)

Performance Top speed (km/h) Acceleration 0-62 mph (sec)

85

Performance 250 5.3

Top speed (km/h) Acceleration 0-62 mph (sec) jubbaairways.com

250 5.0 39


TECHREVIEW Smart Watches

‘sMArt’ WAtChes or sMArt MArketINg?

T

he headlong technological rush to grab a bigger slice of the gadget markets took a new turn in 2013 with the arrival of the first so-called smartwatches. Here we look at three of the market leaders and investigate the future of this wearable technology. Reality is never far behind science fiction, so perhaps it was inevitable that smart phones and tablets would eventually lead to wearable devices that you can interact with all day long. Smartwatches bring hardware into contact with the skin and, in many cases, use data from the body to aid health and sports activities. In general a smartwatch is just an extension of a smartphone which are connected with Bluetooth. The functionality of the first smartwatches was pretty limited in comparison with their paired devices, so it is very much a development area for many manufacturers. Users can keep track of incoming messages to their phone, some have small cameras, calls can be answered, and there are apps that can be downloaded

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to increase functionality, although these are quite limited. Samsung unveiled its first attempt in September 2013; and while most reviews were critical of design and operation, later-generation devices are an improvement. Samsung’s Android-based Galaxy Gear is the most expensive at US$ 420 although this includes a camera. Serving as a companion for other Galaxy devices operating under Android 4.3, it also has a speech interface with a microphone and speaker to allow you to conduct a telephone call via your wrist.

devices The Sony SmartWatch will pair with any Android NFC device by simply touching devices. It is considerably cheaper at around US$ 185 but has no camera. It does, however, feature a compass and GPS and can be used as a remote phone. The Pebble, priced at US$ 220, with a black and white e-paper display, can connect to both Android and iPhone

devices. It has the longest battery life of the three, quoted at five to seven days, and, unlike the others, is fully waterproof rather than just water resistant. In a new development, the Sony SmartBand, released in March 2014 at a price of US$ 135, is different again. Designed to be worn 24 hours a day, it has no screen and records on your phone everything you do, including places visited, music listened to, games played and books read, by connecting to an Android app called Lifelog. It also provides message notifications. An iWatch from Apple is also rumoured to be in the pipeline. The jury is still out on whether these devices are passing fads or will become commonplace in the future. However, with several million already shipped, they are becoming an ‘almost must have’ accessory. However, if the advent of the smartphone meant that you were never out of contact, then with smartwatches, perhaps there really is no escape from the office.


samsung galaxy gear Dimension: 56.6 x 36.8 x 11.1 mm Weight: 73.8 g Typical usage time: 1-2 days Connectivity: Bluetooth® v 4.0 Operating system: Android

sony smartWatch Dimension: 36 x 36 x 8 mm Weight: 41.5 g Typical usage time: 3-4 days Connectivity: Bluetooth® v 3.0 Operating system: Android

pebble Dimension: 52 × 36 × 11.5 mm Weight: 38 g Typical usage time: 5-7 days Connectivity: Bluetooth® v 4.0 Operating system: Pebble OS (Works with iOS and Android)

‘sAACAdo CAsrI Ah MIse suuQ geyN CAsrI Ah ? Tartanka loogu jiro dhanka tiknoolajiyadda ayaa galay qaab cusub oo loogu kala dheeraynayo suuqa qalabka casriga ah sannadkii 2013 iyadoo ay markaa soo baxeen waxa loogu yeedho saacadaha casriga ah. Halkan waxa aynu ku eegi doonnaa saddex ka mid ah kuwa suuqaas hoggaanka u haya waxaanaynu baadhitaan ku samayn doonaa mustaqbalka tiknoolojiyadda la gashado. Xaqiiqadu aad ugama foga khayaaliga sayniska ah, waxay ahayd wax dhici karta in tilifoonada casriga ah iyo qalabkaasi ay horseedi doonaan qalab la gashado oo aad isticmaali karto maalinta oo dhan. Saacadaha casriga ahi waxay qalabkii ka dhigeen wax lagula xidhiidho jidhka, iyadoo marar badan adeegsata jidhka si ay uga caawiso caafimaadka iyo isboortiga. Guud ahaan saacadda casriga ahi waxa ay la mid tahay uun tilifoonada casriga ah ee ku xidhan adeegga Bluetooth. Sida ay u shaqayn jireen saacadihii hore waxay ahayd mid xaddidan marka loo eego qalabka ay ku xidhan yihiin, waana wax horumar laga sameeyay sida ay u arkaan qaar wershedo badani. Dadka adeegsanayaa

waxay la socon karaan farriimaha u soo dhacaya tilifoonkooda, qaarkood waxa ay leeyihiin kamarado, tilifoonada waa laga jawaabi karaa, waxa jira barnaamijyo la soo dejisan karo si ay u kordhiyaan sida uu qalabkani u shaqeeyo inkasta oo ay yihiin qaar xaddidan. Shirkadda Samsung waxay isku daygeedii ugu horreeyay soo saartay Septemper 2013, inkasta oo fikradaha soo gaadhaya badankoodu ay dhalleeceeyeen qaab-samayska iyo habka ay u shaqayso, noocii kaas ka dambeeyay wuu ka fiican yahay kaas hore. Nooca loo yaqaano “Glaxy Gear” ee ay Samsung soo saartay ayaa ah ka ugu qaalisan oo lagu iibiyo 420 Dollar inkasta oo tani ay leedahay kamarad. Iyadoo u shaqaynaysa sida qalabka kele ee nidaamka Android ku shaqeeya, waxa ay leedahay sameecad iyo cod baahiye kuwaas oo suuragal ka dhigaya inaad tilifoon ka dirato gacantaada. Saacadda casriga ah ee Sony waxay la shaqaysaa qalab kasta oo nidaamka Android NFC ku shaqeeya. Way ka qiimo jaban tahay kuwaas hore iyadoo lagu iibiyo 185 Dollar laakiin kamarad ma laha. Hase yeeshee waxa ay leedahay kambas iyo qalabka GPS waxaana loo adeegsan karaa sida tilifoon meel fog laga hago. Nooca Pebble loo yaqaano oo lagu iibiyo 220 Dollar waxa uu leeyahay muraayad (shaashad) aan midab lahayn oo caddaan iyo madow ah. Waxa uu la shaqayn karaa nidaamyada Android iyo

iPhone. Baytarigeedu waxa uu shaqayn karaa muddo aad u dheer oo shan ilaa toddoba cisho lagu qiyaasay. Sidoo kele waxa uu iska xejin karaa biyaha oo waxba ma yeelaan. Horumar cusub oo soo kordhay ayaa ah in nooca SmartBand ee ay Sony soo saartay bishii March 2014 oo lagu iibinayo 135 Dollar uu yahay mid ka duwan kuwii hore. Waxa loogu talagalay in la gashanaado 24 ka saacadood ee maalinta oo dhan, ma laha muraayad ama shaashad waxaana uu ku duubayaa tilifoonkaaga wax kasta oo aad qabanayso sida goobaha aad booqatay, heesaha aad dhegeysatay, waxa aad ciyaartay, iyo buugaagta aad akhriday isagoo ku xidhan nidaamka Android ee loo yaqaano Lifelog. Waxa kele oo uu ku ogaysiinayaa farrimaha. Shirkadda Apple ayaa iyaduna la sheegayaa inay soo waddo mid cusub oo lagu magacaabo iWatch. Ilaa hadda lama garanayo inay qalabkaasi yihiin qaar aan muddo badan jiri doonin iyo inay ahaan doonaan qaar caan ah mustaqbalka. Hase yeeshee iyadoo dhowr milyan oo qalabkaas ah ilaa hadda la qaybiyay waxa laga yaabaa inay noqdaan qaar qof waliba ku khasban yahay inuu haysto. Si kastaba ha ahaatee, haddii tilifoonada casriga ahi ay qofkii ka dhigeen in mar kasta lala xidhiidhi karo, Saacadaha casriga ahina waxay noqon doonaan qaar aan xafiiska lagaga baxsan doonin.

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LATESTRELEASES Film and book reviews

STAR FILM...

EDGE OF TOMORROW Director: Doug Liman. Starring: Tom Cruise, Emily Blunt, Bill Paxton, Brendan Gleeson. Genre: Science fiction. In the near future, an alien race has invaded the Earth and defeated the world’s military forces. Bill Cage is a US Army officer who has never seen a day of combat when he is unceremoniously dropped into what amounts to a suicide mission. Killed within minutes, Cage now finds himself inexplicably thrown into a time loop, forcing him to live out the same brutal combat over and over. But with each battle, Cage becomes able to engage the adversaries with increasing skill, alongside Special Forces warrior Rita Vrataski (Emily Blunt). As Cage and Rita take the fight to the aliens, each repeated encounter gets them one step closer to defeating the enemy.

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MALEFICENT

GODZILLA

Director: Robert Stromberg. Starring: Angelina Jolie, Sharlto Copley, Elle Fanning, Sam Riley. Genre: Fantasy adventure.

Director: Gareth Edwards. Starring: Aaron TaylorJohnson, Ken Watanabe, Elizabeth Olsen, Bryan Cranston. Genre: Science fiction, monster movie.

Angelina Jolie gives a spellbinding performance in the untold story of Disney’s most iconic villainess, the bad fairy Maleficent, from the 1959 classic ‘Sleeping Beauty’ and why her pure heart was turned to stone. Driven by revenge and a fierce desire to protect the moors over which she presides, Maleficent places a curse on the king’s newborn infant, Aurora. As the child grows, Aurora (Elle Fanning) is caught in a conflict between the forest kingdom she has grown to love and the human kingdom that holds her legacy. Maleficent realises that Aurora may hold the key to peace in the land and is forced to take drastic actions that will change both worlds forever.

In a modern reboot of the Godzilla film franchise (dating back to the 1954 original made by Toho in Japan), the world’s most famous monster is pitted against malevolent creatures who, bolstered by humanity’s scientific arrogance, threaten our very existence. Among the main characters are Lieutenant Ford Brody (Aaron TaylorJohnson), a US Navy explosives expert; his father Joe (Bryan Cranston), a nuclear physicist; and Dr Ishiro Serizawa (Ken Watanabe), a scientific investigator.


MUST READ... THE CHICKEN THIEF By Fiona Leonard In this charming and fastpaced adventure, Alois is the eponymous chicken thief, a bright young man struggling to find his way in a southern African country beset by political unrest and a crumbling economy. Through a chance encounter, Alois has an opportunity to make some fast money. But the enterprise goes horribly wrong and he finds himself in a dangerous bid to rescue a war hero and transform the political landscape. In the end, both dreams and justice prove to be within his grasp for this unlikely hero.

ZOO CITY By Lauren Beukes

X-MEN: DAYS OF FUTURE PAST Director: Bryan Singer. Starring: Michael Fassbender, Hugh Jackman, Jennifer Lawrence, Nicholas Hoult. Genre: Action, drama, sci-fi. Original ‘X-Men’ director Bryan Singer returns to the helm for this mind-bending, time-hopping adventure involving a war for survival across two time periods. By 2023 mutants are on the verge of extinction. Giant robotic Sentinels stalk this devastated future world, hunting down the few survivors. Magneto (Ian McKellen) and Professor Xavier (Patrick Stewart) hatch a last desperate plan. They send Wolverine (Hugh Jackman) back on a mission to unite the young Charles Xavier (James McAvoy) and Erik Lehnsherr (Michael Fassbender) at a time when they are at one another’s throats. In order to prevent the war, it will also be necessary to stop Sentinel inventor Bolivar Trask (Peter Dinklage). The wild card is the agenda of Mystique (Jennifer Lawrence).

UNDER THE SKIN Starring: Scarlett Johansson, Paul Brannigan, Jessica Mance Director: Jonathan Glazer Genre: Horror, sci-fi, thriller Scarlett Johansson plays an alien seductress who preys on hitchhikers. In the persona of a beautiful young woman, the alien travels the country in a Transit van, picking up men and harvesting their bodies. But her encounter with a lonely and disfigured man leads to an identity crisis as she becomes more conscious of her human body. Many of the scenes in which Johansson’s character picks up men were filmed on the streets of Glasgow and in other Scottish locations using non-actors, unscripted conversations and hidden cameras.

The spirit possession of traditional religion is brought to a near-future Johannesburg in this urban ‘fantasy noir’ thriller. The main character, former journalist Zinzi December, finds things, even when she doesn’t want to. When she is hired to find a missing teenage pop star, it’s almost certain that her shavi (a compulsion with a bitter cost) will bring disaster. Visions of dystopia are combined with faultless plotting and Shona cosmology in this engrossing novel, which won the 2011 Arthur C. Clarke Award for science fiction literature.

SABA: UNDER THE HYENA’S FOOT By Jane Kurtz When 12-year-old Saba and her older brother are kidnapped and taken from their rural home to the royal palace at Gondar, Saba finally learns about her long-lost parents – and her own royal past. With Ethiopia’s rulers in the midst of a fierce struggle for control of the throne, what can that king of kings, the Emperor Yohannes III, possibly want with her?

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CONTACTUS Jubba Airways offices and agents

Corporate Office

Registered Office

Baniyas Complex B#403 PO Box 40319 Dubai T: +971 4 222 6869 F: +971 4 222 6865 E: info@jubbaairways.com

Panari Sky Center PO Box 10718-00100 Nairobi, Kenya T: +254 (0)20 232 5573 F: +254 (0)20 232 5467 E: info@jubbaairways.com

Branch offices Mogadishu The 30th Street, PO Box 6200 T: + 252 1 217000 F: +2521 227711 E: info@jubbaairways.com Jeddah Hail Center, PO Box 106207 Jeddah, Saudi Arabia T: +966 2 6447222 F: +966 2 6043040 E: info@jubbaairways.com

Foreign Agencies Canada Yorkgate Travel 1 Yorkgate Blvd, Unit 131 North York, Ontario M3N 3A1, Canada T: +1 416 650 1512 F: +1 416 650 1554 E: yorkgatetravel@rogers.com Nasser Travel 1247 Donald Street, Ottawa, Ontario K1J 8W3 T: +1 613 747 1600 F: +1 613 747 0919 E: Nasser@nassertravel.com

USA Safari Travel 2210 Morse Road Suite C1 Columbus, Ohio, 43229 T: +1 614 476 9170 F: +1 614 554 3203 E: safaritravel01@gmail.com

Hargeisa T: +252 252 4022 E: info@jubbaairways.com Bossasso T: +252 666 22211 E: info@jubbaairways.com Galkayo T: +252 907 52959 E: info@jubbaairways.com

Al-Salama Travel Services 1929 S 5th Street # 207 Minneapolis, MN, 55454 T: +1 612 341 9454 F: +1 612 341 9402 E: alsalamatravel@gmail.com Saabir Travel Agency 101 N Broadway Suite 3 Rochester MN, 55906 T: +1 507 285 0300 F: +1 507 285 0303 Cell: +1 507 202 5557 E: saabirtravel@yahoo.com Affordable Travel Agency 15047 Military Road S Seattle, WA, 98188 T: +1 206 433 5513 F: +1 206 433 3405 E: affordabletravel1@hotmail.com AmeriLink International LLC 125 W. Broadway Ave, Suite 102 C, Minneapolis, MN 55411 T: +1 612 886 9000 F: +1 612 677 3947 Cell: +1 612 272 8118 E: amerilinkinternational@gmail.com

UK

Norway

United Worldwide Travel 193 Sister Road, London N8 OQX T: +44 207 272 8722 F: +44 207 2727 446 Cell: +44 793 1390 968 E: faduma_hersi@hotmail.com

Hashi Travel Agency Grondlandsleiret 47c Oslo 0190, Norway T: +47 221 71058 F: +47 221 71059 Cell: +47 988 72812 E: hasitravels@hotmail.com

Travel Express 473 High Road, Leyton London EL 5EL T: +44 208 5585 400 F: +44 208 558 630 E: info@travelexpressuk.com Worldwide Flight Centre 282 Streatham High Road London SW16 6HE T: +44 208 6969 888 F: +44 208 6969 888 Cell: +44 793 9642 118 E: worldtravel3@yahoo.co.uk Albrek Travel 99 Uxbridge Road, Shepherds Bush, London W12 8NL T: +44 208 7493 877 F: +44 208 7495 149 Cell: +44 794 4440 808 E: albrektravel@hotmail.com Travel Time Service 84 The Green, Southhall London UB2 4GB T: +44 208 8138 780 F: +44 208 8138 780 Cell: +44 7957178 326 E: traveltime@hotmail.co.uk Euro Africa Travel 120 Mile End Road, London E1 4UN T: + (44) 207 265 8799 F: + (44) 207 423 9183 E: euroafricatravel@hotmail.com

Sweden Sahal Travel Hinderstorpsgrand 20A 163 72 Spanga, Stockholm T: + (46) 87610701 F: + (46) 84456441 E: sahaltrave@hotmail.com Dalsan Travel Generalgatan 2A Belevue, Gothenburg T: + (46) 739600186 F: + (46) 31155956 E: mahad_hassan@hotmail.com Somtravel Travel Gothenburg T: + (46) 313307530 F: + (46) 707600331 E: somtravel@hotmail.com

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Denmark Amal Express Travel Greffenfeldsgade 5, 2200 Copenhagen N T: +45 353 97878 F: +45 353 97878 E: amelexp@hotmail.com Aden Travel Agency Thriges Plads 5, 5000 Odense C T: +45 6612 9292 F: +45 6612 6059 E: info@adentravel.dk

Finland Euro Travel Agency Kaivonkatsojantie 9 B33 00980 Helsinki T: +358 415 488 283 E: awdhaddi@yahoo.com

Egypt Al Mansoor Travel Cairo City Centre Building #105 Cairo T: + (971) 263 6246 F: + (971) 26316016 E: tahit@mansoortravel.ae Cairo Travel Agency Cairo City Centre Building #10 Cairo T: +201 142 75216 F: +201 142 75216 E: hodancairo@hotmail.com

Kuwait Kuwait Travel Agency Kuwait City T: +965 747 7727 F: +965 977 8688 E: jibrelqablan@hotmail.com

Sudan Luqman Travel Agency Khartoum T: +249 912 627 276 E: luqman4@yahoo.com


Little flyers

KNOCK KNOCKS... Knock Knock

Knock Knock

Who’s there?

Who’s there?

C-2!

Rabbit!

C-2 who?

Rabbit who?

C-2 it that you don’t forget my name next time!

Rabbit up carefully, it’s a present!

JOKES... Q. Why was the broom late? A. It over swept! Q. What kind of hair do oceans have? A. Wavy! Q. What runs but never walks? A. Water!

Q. How do you make milk shake? A. Give it a good scare! Q. What’s red and flies and wobbles at the same time? A. A jelly copter!

RIDDLES... Answer: A tap

What runs but never walks?

What is full of holes but can still hold water? Answer: A sponge

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TRAVELTIPS Enjoy a healthy and relaxed flight

J

ubba Airways has some useful travel tips to help you enjoy a healthy and relaxed flight.

In-flight aerobics Here are a few simple stretching exercises to help loosen muscles and joints. These exercises can be performed from your seat in the upright position. Breathe normally, do not overstretch and repeat the steps at two-hour intervals. Hands: Grip the edge of the armrest with your hands, hold to a count of five and then relax. Repeat 10 times. Legs: Starting with your feet on the floor, bring your legs slowly up towards your chest, as far as you can. Relax them slowly. Repeat three times. Neck: Slowly move your head towards your right shoulder and hold for five seconds. Then move towards your left shoulder and hold for a further five seconds. Gradually move your chin down towards your chest. Hold for five seconds and relax. Repeat three times. Shoulders: Hunch your shoulders, hold and slowly relax. Repeat five times.

Arrive at the airport early Allow extra time for unexpected delays when parking, going through security and checking in. Allow extra time at peak periods such as school holidays, Saturday mornings and Sunday evenings.

Domestic travel We recommend that passengers check in luggage at least 60 minutes before the scheduled domestic departure. No-luggage passengers should check in

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at least 45 minutes before the scheduled departure.

International travel Jubba recommends that passengers check in at least two hours before the scheduled international departure. Seats and reservations are subject to cancellation if travellers are not checked in at least one hour prior to scheduled departure.

Excess baggage information If passengers have more personal baggage than the allowed limit of 30 kg, it may be carried as excess baggage or by normal cargo. When transported as excess baggage, the additional luggage will normally travel on the same flight as the passenger and will be subject to a fee depending on weight and destination. When transported as cargo, the additional luggage will be dispatched on the next flight to the destination and will be subject to space availability. Charges for normal cargo are generally lower than the charges for excess baggage.

Banned items The following items are banned on Jubba Airways flights: Dangerous goods and fireworks: • Signal flares, sparklers and other explosives • Flammable liquids and solids • Fuel, paints, lighter refills and matches. Household items: • Bleach, chlorine, spray starch, insecticides, drain cleaners and solvents • Pressure containers • Spray cans, butane, fuel, scuba

bottles, propane cylinders, gas fuel bottles, CO2 cartridges and self-inflating rafts. Weapons: • Firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, mace, tear gas and pepper spray. Other hazardous materials: • Dry ice, petrol-driven tools, wet cell batteries, camping equipment with fuel, radioactive materials, poisons and infectious substances. Miscellaneous: • Knives and cutting instruments (metallic or non-metallic), blades, ice picks, straight razors (disposable razors are allowed) and scissors.

Passports and visas for Somalia To enter Somalia, citizens of the following countries require a passport (valid for six months), a visa and a return ticket: Australia, Canada, all European Union countries (including the UK) and the USA.


Tilmaamaha Safarka Jubba Airways waxay kuu haysaa tilmaamo xagga safarka ku saabsan si ay kaaga caawiso inaad ku hesho safar circa ah oo raaxo badan isla markaana caafimaad qaba.

Types and cost: • Single-entry tourist visitor visa: US$ 50 • Multiple-entry business visa: US$ 100. These visas are issued by the Somali Embassy in Kenya, but cover only governmentcontrolled parts of Somalia. Validity: • Visas are valid for six months from date of issue. Application: Somalia is treated as three different areas for visas. Contact the Somaliland Mission for visas for Somaliland and the Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism for visas for Puntland. For the rest of Somalia, contact the Somali embassies in Ethiopia or Kenya. Visas to Somalia are not valid in Somaliland. Note: Visitors to Somalia should register with the embassy representing their country in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia or with their embassy or high commission in Nairobi, Kenya.

Jimicsiga Diyaaradda dhexdeeda Halkan waxaanu idiinku haynaa jimicsiyo fududud oo aad ku kala bixiso muruqyada iyo xaglaha jidhkaaga. Jimicsiyadan waxa aad samayn kartaa adiga oo kursigaaga fadhiya. Si caadi ah u neefso, si xad dhaaf ah ha isu kala bixin kuna celceli adigoo u dhaxaysiinaya laba saacadood markiiba. Gacmaha: Ku qabo geeska suxulka gacantaada, sidaa u hay adigoo shan goor tirinaya ka dibna sii daa. 10 jeer ku celceli sidaas. Lugaha: Adigoo ka bilaabaya calaacasha aad dhulka ku hayso, lugahaaga kor u soo qaad adigoo ku soo dhawaynaya laabtaada inta aad ka awooddo. Si aayar ah u sii daa. Ku celceli saddex goor. Qoorta: Si miyir ah u dhaqaaji madaxaaga dhinaca garabkaaga midig waxaanad ku haysaa shan ilbidhiqsi. Ka dibna u dhaqaaji dhinaca garabka bidix kuna hay shan ilbidhiqsi oo kele. Si aayar ah u dhaqaaji gadhkaaga adigoo ku dhejinaya laabta. Ku hay shan ilbidhiqsi ka dibna sii daa. Ku celceli 3 goor. Garbaha: Isku dheji garbahaaga, ku hay oo si miyir ah u sii daa. Ku celceli 5 goor. Madaarka kaalay xilli hore Ku talagal wakhti dheeraad ah hadii ay yimaadaan hawlo aanad filaynin marka aad gaadhiga meel dhigayso, goobaha la isku baadho aad ka gudbayso isla markaana aad gelayso madaarka. Wakhti dheeraadka ku darso xilliyada mashquulka la yahay sida fasaxa dugsiyada, subaxa sabtida iyo fiidka axadda. Safarka dalka gudihiisa Waxaanu kula talinaynaa macaamiishayada inay alaabadooda la soo xeroodaan ugu yaraan hal saac ka hor wakhtiga diyaaradda dalka gudihiisu ay kacayso. Ma jiri doono in shandadaha qofka safraya laga qabto ugu yaraan 45 daqiiqo ka hor inta aan diyaaraddu kicin. Safarka Debedda Jubba waxay ku talinaysaa in dadka safrayaa ay madaarka yimaaddaan laba saacadood ka hor wakhtiga diyaaraddu kacayso. Kuraasta iyo boosaskuba waa lagala noqonayaa haddii dadka safrayaa aanay madaarka soo gelin ugu dambay hal saac ka hor wakhtiga diyaaraddu kacayso. Macluumaad ku saabsan alaabta dheeraadka ah Haddii dadka safrayaa ay sitaan in ka badan alaabta intii loogu talagalay ee 30 ka kiiloo ahaa, waxa laga yaabaa in loogu qaado sidii alaab dheeraad ah ama xamuul caadi ah. Marka loo qaado sidii alaab dheeraad ah, inta alaabta dheeraadka ahi waxa lagu qaadaa isla diyaaraddaas uu qofku raacayo waxaana dhici karta in lacag laga qaado taas oo xidhnaan doonta miisaanka iyo meesha loo socdo. Marka loo qaado sidii xammuul ahaan (Cargo), alaabta dheeraadka ah waxa lagu soo qaadayaa diyaaradda tan ku xigta waxaanay ku xidhnaan doontaa hadba sida

boos looga helo. Kharashka laga qaado xammuulka caadiga ahi wuu ka yar yahay kan laga qaado alaabta dheeraadka ah.

Alaabada Aan la Oggolayn Alaabada soo socota waa ka mamnuuc ama lama oggola in lala raaco Jubba Airways:

Alaabada khatarta ah iyo rashka

• Kuwa signal ka bixiya, kuwa olola iyo kuwa qaraxa sameeya. • Dareerayaasha iyo waxyaalaha adag ee ololi kara • Shidaal, ranji, layter, iyo kabriidka

Alaabada guryaha lagu isticmaalo

• Bleach, chlorine, spray starch, insecticides, drain cleaners and solvents • Qalabka wax kaydiya ee naqaska ku shaqeeya • daasadaha wax lagu buufiyo, shidaalka, quraaradaha, daasadaha shidaalka, qalabka CO2 iyo qalabka iskii uu olola.

Hubka

• Qoryaha dagaalka, rasaasta, budada rasaasta, dhuumaha, gaasta dadka kaga ilmaysiisa, iyo besbaaska indhaha la iskaga buufiyo.

Alaabta kele ee khatarta ah

Baraf engegan, qalabka batrooka ku shaqeeya, baytariyo qoyan, qalabka banaanka lagu seexdo ee shidaalkawata, qalabka shucaaca ku shaqeeya, suntan iyo dareerayaasha wax la isku qaadsiiyo.

Isku jir

Mindiyaha iyo qalabka wax lagu jarjaro (bir ha noqdo ama yaanuu ahaan), sakiinadaha, qalabka barafka, makiinadaha iyo maqasyada.

Baasaboorrada iyo Fiisayaasha Soomaalia Si aad u gasho Soomaaliya, dadka waddamadan soo socda u dhashay waxay u baahan yihiin baasaboor (aan dhacayn Lix bilood), fiise iyo tigidhkii noqodka: Australia, Canada, all European Union countries (including the UK) and the USA.

Fiisayaasha Noocyada iyo qiimaha

• Fiisaha hal mar ee dalxiiska: 50 Dollar • Fiisaha joogitaanka muddada dheer: 100 Dollar Fiisayaashaa waxa bixiya safaaradda Soomaaliya ee Kiiniya, laakiin waxay ka shaqaysaa uun inta dalka Soomaaliya ay dowladdu ka maamusho.

Muddada uu shaqaynayo

• Fiisayaashu waxay shaqaynayaan muddo lix bilood ah marka laga bilaabo maalinta la bixiyay.

Dalbashada

Soomaaliya waxa laga isticmaalaa saddex fiise. La xidhiidh xafiiska Somaliland si aad u hesho fiisaha Somaliland. La xidhiidh wasaaradda warfaafinta, dhaqanka iyo dalxiiska si aad u hesho fiisaha Puntland. Inta kele ee Soomaaliya la xidhiidh safaaradda Soomaaliya ee Itoobiya ama Kiiniya. Fiisaha Somalia kama shaqeeyo Somaliland.

Ogsoonow

Dadka booqanaya Soomaaliya waa inay iska diiwaan geliyaan safaaradda dalkooda ee Addis Ababa, Ethiopia ama safaaraddooda Nairobi, Kenya.

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FLEETINFO Jubba Airways fleet and route information

J

ubba Airways was launched in April 1998 by a group of entrepreneurs with the aim of providing reliable and competitive air transport connecting East Africa to the rest of the world. The inaugural flight took place on 28 May 1998 just 30 days after the launch of the company, Since then, Jubba Airways has grown into one of Africa’s largest private airlines.

Fleet information Jubba Airways operates with two Boeing 737-300s, one Boeing 373-400 and one Boeing 727-200F aircraft within the domestic region.

Route information With a fleet of modern jet and turboprop aircraft, Jubba Airways operates scheduled passenger flights to a range of destinations including Somalia, Djibouti, Kenya, Yemen and Saudi Arabia.

Cargo fleet information Jubba Cargo, the boutique air cargo division of Jubba Airways, provides top quality professional air cargo services to East Africa and the Middle East. Operating with Boeing 727 freighters, Jubba Cargo flies twice a week to a range of cargo destinations including the United Arab Emirates, Somalia, Djibouti and Kenya.

Boeing 737-200 Seating capacity of 120

Warbixin ku Saabsan Jubba Airways Jubba Airways waxa la sameeyay bishii April sanadkii 1998 waxaana sameeyay koox ganacsato ah iyagoo ujeedadoodu ay ahayd inay bixiyaan diyaarado tayo leh oo lagu kalsoon yahay kuwaas oo Geeska Afrika ku xidhaya dunida inteeda kele. Duulimaadkii ugu horreeyay wuxuu dhacay 28kii bishii May 1998 ka dib 30 maalmood markii la sameeyay shirkadda. Ilaa xilligaas Jubba Airways waxay noqotay mid ha mid ah shirkadaha diyaaradaha ee ugu waawayn Afrika.

Macluumaadka Diyaaradda Jubba Airways waxay adeegsataa diyaaradaha Boeing 737-300, Boeing 373-400 iyo Boeing 727-200F oo ay u adeegsato duullimaadyada gudaha ee gobolka:

• Laba diyaaradda Boeing 737-300 oo qaada 138 qof • Hal Boeing 737-200 oo qaadda 120 qof 2954

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Macluumaadka Meelaha ay Marto Iyadoo adeegsanaysa diyaaradaha casriga ah iyo kuwo keleba, Jubba Airways waxay diyaaradaheeda dadka qaadaa isaga gooshaan goobo kala duwan oo ay ku jiraan Somalia, Jabuuti, Kenya, Yaman iyo Sucuudiga.

Boeing 737-300 Seating capacity of 138

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Boeing 737-400 Seating capacity of 154

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• Hal Boeing 737-400 oo qaadda 154 qof

2888

Macluumaadka Diyaaradaha Xammuulka (kaargooga) Jubba Cargo, qaybta xammuulka ee diyaaradda Jubba Airways waxay bixisaa adeegyada xammuulka ama kaargooga oo ay tayadoodu aad u sarrayso kuwaas oo ay gaadhsiiso Afrikada Bari iyo Bariga dhexe. Iyadoo adeegsanaysa diyaaradaha nooca loo yaqaano Boeing 727, Jubba Cargo waxa ay toddobaadkiiba laba goor u duushaa meelo kala duwan oo ay ka mid yihiin Imaaraadka, Soomaaliya, Jabbuuti iyo Kiiniya.


Dubai SAUDI ARABIA

UAE OMAN

Jeddah

SUDAN

YEMEN ERI TRE A

Bossasso

Djibouti Hargeisa ETHIOPIA

Galkayo Guriel

SOMALIA

Mogadishu KENYA

Nairobi

ROUTEMAP TANZANIA



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