HOW STUFF
WORKS
Surfing
Discover the science behind surfing, one of the most popular water sports in the world, where thrill-seekers use the energy of breaking waves to power their manoeuvres.
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As these waves approach the shore, the shallow water forces them to slow down and become taller and steeper.
When a surfer spots an approaching wave beginning to rise up, they turn towards the shore and start paddling as hard as possible in the same direction as the wave is moving.
If they time their paddling just right, the wave will be almost breaking when it reaches the surfer, with a super-steep front face and white froth starting to form at its peak. This happens because the water at the back of the wave is now travelling more quickly than the front of the wave and is starting to overtake it.
The breaking wave catches the surfer, and they start to fall down the face of the wave. As soon as they can feel that the wave has caught them, they leap up so they are standing on the board, a manoeuvre called the take-off.
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If they manage to take off successfully, the surfer will lean their weight to one side to steer the board sideways along the wave and away from the area where it is breaking. Fins at the back of the board act like sails on a boat, transferring energy to the board from the water so it accelerates. Fins also allow the surfer to control their direction.
