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VISITING QUEBEC CITY IS LIKE BECOMING REACQUAINTED WITH A LONG-LOST LOVE. SURE, HER STYLE HAS CHANGED AND SHE’S SPORTING SOME NEW ACCOUTREMENT. BUT SHE’S AS BEAUTIFUL AS EVER, AND YOU REMEMBER WHY YOU FELL SO DAMN HARD FOR HER IN THE FIRST PLACE. BY DOUG O’NEILL
ne summer, in another lifetime, I spent two months in a French-immersion program in one of Canada’s oldest cities. When I wasn’t conjugating verbs or massacring le subjonctif, I was busily exploring this historic French-speaking city founded in 1608. I’ve had several recent opportunities to revisit some of my old haunts and discover new ones. FAVOURITE NEIGHBOURHOOD THEN Lower Town. The historic district at the foot of Cap Dia-
mant in Old Quebec, where Samuel de Champlain built his first settlement, was my go-to hood on earlier visits. It’s marked by cobblestone streets, small cafés, bistros and boutique hotels. 58
NOW St-Jean Quarter. While Lower Town will figure into any visit, I now gravitate toward this hipster district, particularly along rue St-Jean, rue Grande Allée and avenue Cartier. It’s a lively mix of bohemian and trendy shops and restaurants. FAVOURITE DINING THEN Dining at Le Cochon Dingue (translation: “the crazy
pig”) has been a tourists’ rite of passage for the past 35 years. Thumbs-up to the duck confit poutine. The restaurant now has four locations in Quebec. cochondingue.com NOW My taste leans toward L’Initiale, headed by chef Yves Lebrun, where a tasting menu can include sweetbreads, seared foie gras and lobster enoki. restaurantinitiale.com CANADIANLIVING.COM | AUGUST 2014
PHOTOGRAPHY: ROWELL PHOTOGRAPHY (QUEBEC CITY); JEFF COULSON (PORTRAIT); BRUNO FLORIN (BICYCLE)
Enter one of our contests on pages 15, 27, 47, 65 and 89, and be eligible for your chance to win a trip for four to Carnival in Quebec City valued at $10,000, including a two-night stay at Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, and a one-night stay at Hôtel de Glace, the world-famous Ice Hotel. Find contest details at canadianliving.com/ CLsummer.
