Harvest Salads

H A R V E

B Y R I S L A C O S T E S A L A D S These gorgeous fall salads exemplify the freshness and seasonality that is the driving force behind the 34 F I N E C O O K I N G • F E BT / M A R 2 0 1 3 P h o t o g r a p h s b y t k t k menu at Washington, D.C.’s beloved eatery, RIS.

THE WARM-WEATHER MONTHS MAY BE THE peak season for salad eating, but when cool—even cold— weather arrives, there’s no need to put the salad bowl away until spring. Fall presents an opportunity to enjoy a completely different but equally satisfying array of salads built from the best the season has to offer.

The juicy tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, sweet corn, and lettuces of summer—leaf, tender Bibb, and crunchy romaine—give way to butternut squash, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, earthy mushrooms, roasted roots, nuts and grains, dark, leafy greens, and pleasantly bitter chicories balanced by the sweetness of fruit—fresh and dried—tangy cheeses, and dressings made with maple syrup and port wine.

These complex and beautiful main-dish salads take a bit of planning, but they’re well worth the effort and perfectly suited to dinner with company.

endive, walnut, and blue cheese salad with port vinaigrette

The velvety port and vanilla bean-poached pears become transcendent accompanied with the crisp, slightly bitter endive and astringent blue cheese. This recipe makes an elegant starter that can easily be composed as an hors d’oeuvre: filling the endive spears with the nuts, cheese, onions, and port vinaigrette, and topping it all with a slice of poached pear. Serves 6

FOR THE POACHED PEARS 2 cups port wine 1 cup sugar 1 vanilla bean 3 to 4 firm but ripe Bartlett or Bosc pears, peeled, stems left on

FOR THE PORT VINAIGRETTE 2 cups port wine 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard ¼ cup honey ½ cup diced shallot (about 4 small) 2 cups peanut oil ½ cup walnut oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE SALAD 1 medium head frisée, trimmed , and cut into bite-size pieces (about 2½ cups) 1 small head radicchio, cut cross wise into ½-inch ribbons (about 3 2/3 cups) 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced crosswise (about 1 cup) 1 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped (about 4 oz.) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 large heads endive (about 13 oz.), leaves separated 4 oz. blue cheese, crumbled, preferably Maytag (about 2/3 cup) MAKE THE POACHED PEARS In a large saucepan, combine the port, 1 cup water, and the sugar. Split the vanilla bean, and scrape the seeds into the pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Add the pears (the poaching liquid should reach half way up the pears) and cook, turning occasionally so all sides are equally poached, until soft when tested with a sharp knife, about 45 minutes. Store pears in the poaching liquid in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

MAKE THE PORT VINAIGRETTE In a small saucepan, bring the port to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced to ¼ cup, about 30 minutes. Let cool completely.

In a medium bowl, combine the reduced port, the vinegar, mustard, honey, and shallots. Whisking constantly, stream in the oils until thickened and emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Store leftover vinaigrette in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. Bring to room temperature before use.)

MAKE THE SALAD In a large bowl, toss the frisée, radicchio, onions, and walnuts with ¼ cup of the Port Vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, arrange 5 endive leaves across the top of each plate (if you have extra endive, thinly slice it crosswise, and add to the salad, or use the leaves whole for plating additional servings).

Divide the salad among the leaves, nestling some into each. Sprinkle with crumbled blue cheese, and a drizzle of the remaining ¼ cup vinaigrette. Arrange fanned slices of pear on each, and serve.

Pair With: PORT AND PROSECCO Besides being a great complement to the dressing, this cocktail has good acidity to stand up to both the blue cheese and the bitter greens.

kale and brussels sprouts salad

This recipe, a fan favorite at RIS, exemplifies fall at its finest: abundant with dried fruit and nuts, pickles, and roasted vegetables. Hand-bruising the kale to soften it a bit is one of the keys to making this salad such a success, as is the mustard crème fraîche, which beautifully brightens and balances the robust flavor of

kale. Serves 6 to 8

FOR THE CANDIED PECANS Nonstick cooking spray 1 large egg white 1½ Tbs. pure vanilla extract 1 Tbs. bourbon 4 cups pecan halves (about 1 lb.) ½ cup packed light brown sugar Kosher salt

SHERRY-WALNUT VINAIGRETTE ¼ cup sherry vinegar 3 Tbs. finely diced shallots (about 2 medium) 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. pure maple syrup Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup walnut oil ¼ cup peanut oil

FOR THE PICKLED ONION 1 medium red onion (½ lb.), thinly sliced 2 tsp. granulated sugar 1½ salt ¼ cup red wine vinegar

FOR THE MUSTARD CRÈME FRAÎCHE ½ cup crème fraîche ¼ cup whole-grain mustard ¼ cup Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. honey Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE ROASTED SWEET POTATOES 1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice 3 Tbs. pure maple syrup 3 Tbs. walnut oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ROAST THE SWEET POTATOES

FOR THE GREENS 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed 8 cups packed stemmed kale, torn into bite-size pieces (1 ½ bunches) ¾ cup Sherry-Walnut Vinaigrette 1 cup dried sweet cherries 1½ to 2 cups Candied Pecans Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Pickled Red Onions 8 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled

MAKE THE CANDIED PECANS Position a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly spray with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white until stiff peaks form. Fold in the vanilla and bourbon. Fold in the nuts until well coated. Fold in the sugar and 1/4 tsp. salt. Spread the nuts in an even layer on the baking sheet. Bake until dry, stirring twice, about 35 minutes. Let cool completely. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

MAKE THE SHERRY-WALNUT VINAIGRETTE In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallots, mustard, maple syrup, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. While whisking constantly, stream in the walnut oil and then the peanut oil until thickened and emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

PICKLED RED ONION In a medium bowl, toss the onion with the sugar, and 1 1/2 tsp. salt and let sit for 10 minutes. Toss with the vinegar, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

MAKE THE MUSTARD CRÈME FRAÎCHE In a medium bowl, combine the crème fraîche, mustards, honey, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a medium bowl, combine the sweet potatoes , maple syrup, and walnut oil, and season with 1 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Spread the potatoes in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Set aside to cool until ready to use. Or, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

PREPARE THE GREENS Refresh the trimmed Brussels sprouts by soaking them in cold water for about 10 minutes. Drain well, and thinly slice with a knife, or in a food processor.

Soak the torn kale in cold water for about 10 minutes. Drain, and spin in a salad spinner or pat dry with paper towels. Both Brussels sprouts and kale may be stored in plastic zip-top bags with a lightly dampened paper towel to until ready to serve, or for up to 2 days.

ASSEMBLE AND SERVE Add the kale to a large bowl, and drizzle with 1/4 cup of the vinaigrette. Massage the kale to lightly bruise the leaves until all the leaves are tender and deep green. Add the sliced Brussels sprouts, dried cherries, pecans, and sweet potatoes, and drizzle with 1/2 cup of the remaining dressing; toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Smear a heaping tablespoon of the crème fraîche on the bottom of each salad plate or shallow bowl. Top with a some of the salad, a few pickled red onion slices, and the goat cheese.

Pair With: AMERICAN AMBER ALE Similarity to an American pale ale means this beer will have hoppy notes to go with the slight bitterness of the greens. More weight and maltiness means it will play well with the sweet potatoes, cherries, and pecans, too.

harvest grain salad bowl

This grain bowl is a colorful, fun meal. The pickled blueberries are a wonderful surprise that awakens the palate. You can use any combination of grains, nuts,or fruit, and the secret purée underneath it all. Cauliflower is great. Celery root is awesome. Cauliflower rice can also be a substitute for one or all of the grains.

Serves 8

FOR THE PICKLED BLUEBERRIES 8 oz. blueberries or Concord grapes (about 1½ cups) 1 cup white balsamic vinegar 1 Tbs. granulated sugar

FOR THE BALSAMIC DATES 1 lb. pitted dates or figs, cut in half lengthwise 2 cups granulated sugar ½ cup balsamic vinegar ½ cup sherry vinegar ½ vanilla bean

FOR THE GRAINS 1½ cups dry farro 1½ cups dry quinoa Kosher salt

FOR THE CELERY ROOT PURÉE 1¼ lb. celery root 1 cup vegetable stock or water 1 cup almond milk 1 Tbs. walnut oil Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

FOR THE ROASTED WINTER SQUASH AND SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS 1 medium acorn squash (about 2½ lb.), seeded and cut into 6 to 8 wedges ¼ cup orange juice ¼ cup pure maple syrup ¼ cup walnut oil 2 tsp. kosher salt 10 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed (about 5 cups) FOR THE SALAD 6 oz. walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped 2 medium stalks celery, very thinly sliced (about 1 cup) 2 cups packed baby spinach (about 3 oz.) ½ cup Sherry-Walnut Vinaigrette (recipe, page 36)

PICKLE THE BLUEBERRIES Add the blueberries to a medium bowl. In a small bowl or glass measure, stir together the vinegar and sugar, and pour over the blueberries. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, or up to 8 hours.

MAKE THE BALSAMIC DATES In a medium saucepan, combine the dates, sugar, and vinegars over low heat. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, and scrape the seeds into the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the dates are saturated, and the liquid is slightly syrupy, about 6 minutes. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.

COOK THE GRAINS Cook the grains separately according to package directions. Strain if necessary, and season to taste with salt. Spread grains on a large rimmed baking sheets to cool, then place in a large bowl and toss to combine. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.

MAKE THE CELERY ROOT PURÉE Use a sharp knife to cut off the gnarly base of the celery root, and cut a thin slice from the top. Cut the root in half lengthwise, and use a paring knife to peel each half. Use a chef ’s knife to coarsely chop the celery root into ½-inch pieces (you should have about 5 cups).

In a medium saucepan, combine the celery root, stock, almond milk, and walnut oil. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook just until tender, about 25 minutes. Let cool slightly.

Transfer the celery mixture to a blender or food processor, and add 1 ½ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Cover, and process or blend, until smooth, about 1 ½ minutes. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up 8 hours.

MAKE THE ROASTED SQUASH AND SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS Position a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the squash in a large bowl, and toss with the orange juice, maple syrup, walnut oil, and 2 tsp. salt. Remove the squash from the dressing using a slotted spoon, and arrange in a single layer on half of a large rimmed baking sheet. Toss the mushrooms in the remaining dressing, then transfer with a slotted spoon to the other half of the baking sheet. Set aside the remaining orange dressing in the bowl.

Bake until the mushrooms are golden, about 20 minutes. Carefully transfer the mushrooms to the reserved dressing in the bowl. Flip the squash, after 30 minutes, and continue to roast until tender and caramelized, about 10 minutes more.

ASSEMBLE AND SERVE Just before serving, combine the mixed grains, walnuts, celery, and spinach, and drizzle with about 6 Tbs. of the sherry vinaigrette. Smear about 2 heaping Tbs. of the celery root purée in the bottom of each of 8 shallow bowls. Divide the grain mixture evenly among the bowls. Top grains with a wedge of squash, some blueberries and dates, and the mushroom caps. Drizzle with the remaining dressing, and serve.

Pair With: RHONE-STYLE OR GSM BLEND A combination of five grapes including Syrah and Grenache, this French blend has brightness for the pickled and vinegary elements in the salad, earthiness for the grains and mushrooms, and tannins for the nuts.