Savory Pork Stews

S A V O R Y P o r k S t e w s

Warm up with a hearty pot of global goodness. A variety of cuts gets treated to a diverse array of flavor profiles—each one uniquely delicious.

B Y T O N Y R O S E N F E L D

“THE OTHER WHITE MEAT” marketing campaign of the late-’80s had mixed results. The premise was good: pork is versatile. But the ads also can be blamed indirectly for pork being bred way too lean and for proliferating the “it tastes like chicken” reference point for every strange protein.

Pork’s versatility is a theme worth revisiting, particularly in stews where you can match the cuts to your mood and time constraints.

The cooking formula that follows is simple: set the pork in a marinade so it soaks up some flavor, brown it to create a caramelized base, and then surround it with intense broths. The method is so easy and versatile that after a couple of tries, you may even consider subbing it for your other favorite dinner preparations.

drunken greek pork stew

This quick take on bekri meze, the classic Greek appetizer, pairs chunks of pork with a good splash of wine (hence, the stew’s name) and a broth laden with bell pepper and onion. Because the flavorings are simple, look for good Mediterranean oregano which will impart a more nuanced flavor. Serves 4

2 pork tenderloins (about 2 lb. total), trimmed of fat, and cut into 1-inch pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. dried oregano, divided 2 tsp. ground cumin, divided 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour 3 Tbs. olive oil, divided 1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice (about 1 cup) 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice (about 1 cup) 1 medium Spanish onion, finely diced 2 bay leaves 1 Tbs. tomato paste 1 tsp. minced garlic ¾ cup dry white wine (such as Pinot Grigio) 1 ½ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Toss the pork with ½ tsp. salt, ¾ tsp. pepper, and 1 tsp. each oregano and cumin. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Sprinkle the pork with the flour and toss to coat. Heat a large heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil, and when shimmering, add half of the pork in an even layer. Cook, undisturbed, until browned around the edges and pork easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Flip, and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Cook the remaining pork in the same manner; transfer to the plate.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. of the oil and the bell peppers, onion, and bay leaves. Sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt, increase the heat to mediumhigh, and cook, stirring to incorporate any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, until the peppers and onion soften and brown in places, about 6 minutes. Add the tomato paste, garlic, and the remaining 1 tsp. oregano and 1 tsp. cumin, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until it’s almost evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add the broth, bring to a simmer, and then reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the pork and any accumulated juices, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork is cooked through and the broth thickens, about 15 minutes.

Stir in half of the parsley and season generously with salt and pepper. Serve, sprinkled with the remaining parsley.

SERVING SUGGESTION Pair with a warm salad of orzo tossed with olive oil, feta, chopped Kalamata olives, and wilted arugula.

Pair With: PINOT GRIGIO One of the most basic rules of food and wine pairing is that the wine used in a recipe will often go well with the recipe. So whatever you open to splash in the stew, splash it into your glass as well.

new mexican green chile pork stew with corn, queso fresco, and pickled red onion

This is a weeknight riff on the classic New Mexican stew made with Hatch chiles during the fall harvest. Anaheim peppers are not quite as spicy as Hatch (nor do they boast the illustrious terroir), but they do have great flavor and are readily available. Serves 4

FOR THE PORK 2 pork tenderloins (about 2 lb. total), cut into 1 ½-inch chunks ½ tsp. kosher salt ¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. garlic powder

FOR THE PICKLED ONION 1 medium red onion (½ lb.), thinly sliced 2 tsp. granulated sugar 1½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ cup red wine vinegar

FOR THE STEW 1 lb. Anaheim chiles, halved, seeds and membranes removed 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 1 cup fresh cilantro sprigs, divided 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced (about ½ cup) 1 tsp. ground cumin 2 Tbs. all-purpose flour 2 Tbs. olive oil 2 ears corn, cut into kernels (about 1½ cups) 1 lime, juiced (2 Tbsp.) ½ cup crumbled queso fresco or feta (about 4 oz.)

SEASON THE PORK In a large bowl, toss the pork with salt, pepper, cumin, sugar, chili powder, and garlic powder. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

MAKE THE PICKLED ONION In a medium bowl, toss the onion with the sugar and salt, and let sit for 10 minutes. Toss with the vinegar, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

MAKE THE STEW Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with foil. Place chiles, cutside down, on baking sheet. Roast until skins are charred, about 20 minutes. Wrap peppers in the foil, and let stand 20 to 30 minutes or until cool enough to handle. Peel off skin.

For the broth, in a blender, combine the peppers, broth, 1/2 cup cilantro, the scallions, and cumin until smooth.

Sprinkle the pork with flour and toss to coat. Heat a large heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the oil, and when shimmering, add half of the pork in an even layer. Cook, undisturbed, until browned around the edges and pork easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Flip, and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Cook the remaining pork; transfer to the plate.

Add the puree to the pot, and bring to a boil. Return the pork and any accumulated juices to the pot, along with the corn. Reduce the to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork is cooked through and the broth thickens, about 15 minutes. Add the lime juice, and season generously with salt and black pepper.

Serve, topped with the remaining 1/2 cup cilantro, the onion, and queso fresco.

SERVING SUGGESTION Pair with spiced quinoa and slow-cooked pinto beans.

Pair With: SAUVIGNON BLANC Acidic, herbaceous Sauv Blanc is a great partner to the bright green flavors in this stew. Ideally, choose a fruit-forward style to better balance the food’s spice.

szechuan pork stew with ginger and chiles

Szechuan peppercorns give this stew its iconic tingle and intense aroma. Though they’re not readily available at all supermarkets, you can find peppercorns easily enough online if not on a run to the Asian market. And once you have secured a stash, these small rounds make a fun addition to stir-fries and noodles. Serves 4

FOR THE MARINADE 2 lb. pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat, and cut into 1-inch pieces 3 Tbs. soy sauce 1 Tbs. Shaoxing wine or dry sherry 1 Tbs. toasted sesame oil 1 Tbs. granulated sugar ½ tsp. five-spice powder

FOR THE STEW 1 Tbs. cornstarch 3 Tbs. canola oil or peanut oil, divided 1 knob ginger (about 2 oz.), peeled and thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, smashed 10 whole dried red chiles 1 Tbs. Szechuan peppercorns (about ¼ oz.), cracked 1½ cups low-salt chicken broth 3 Tbs. low-salt soy sauce 2 Tbs. oyster sauce 4 scallions (both white and green parts), thinly sliced (about ½ cup), for serving MAKE THE MARINADE Toss the pork with the soy sauce, wine, sesame oil, sugar, and five-spice powder. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

MAKE THE STEW Sprinkle the pork with the cornstarch and toss to coat. Heat a large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil, and when it’s shimmering, add half of the pork in an even layer. Cook, undisturbed, until browned around the edges, and pork easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Flip, and cook the other side until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Cook the remaining pork in the same manner; transfer to the plate.

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, the ginger, garlic, and chiles. Cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the broth, soy sauce, and oyster sauce, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Add the pork and any accumulated juices. Reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until the pork is tender, about 1 hour.

Sprinkle with the scallions, and serve.

SERVING SUGGESTION Pair with steamed jasmine rice and stir-fried garlicky Chinese broccoli.

Pair With: OFF-DRY RIESLING Why off-dry? Because a little bit of sweetness both offsets and complements the heat from the chiles.

southern pork stew with collards and black-eyed peas

Country-style ribs are technically chops from the blade end of the loin near the shoulder. They are neither as fatty as pork butt nor as quick-cooking as pork chops. The trick is to cook them gently to render their fat and so that their disparate muscles cook evenly. Serves 4

4 lb. boneless pork country-style ribs (8 medium ribs), trimmed of excess fat Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. sweet paprika 1 tsp. chili powder 1 tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. garlic powder ½ cup all-purpose flour 4 Tbs. olive oil, divided 1 tsp. minced garlic 1 bunch collard greens (about 1½ lb.), stemmed, washed, and cut into 2-inch ribbons 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 15-oz. can black-eyed peas, drained 6 oz. ham steak, cut into ½-inch dice (about 1 ½ cups) In a large bowl, toss the pork with 2 tsp. salt, ¾ tsp. pepper, the sugar, paprika, chili powder, cumin, and garlic powder. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Heat a large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the flour to a shallow bowl, and dredge the ribs to coat evenly. Add 2 Tbs. of the oil to the Dutch oven, and when shimmering, add half of the ribs, evenly spaced. Cook, undisturbed, until the pork is browned around the edges and easily releases when lifted with tongs, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, flip the ribs, and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Add another 1 Tbs. of the oil, and cook the remaining ribs in the same manner; transfer to the plate.

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, and the garlic. When the garlic begins to sizzle, add the collards. Cook, stirring, until the greens are wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth. Reduce the heat to medium low, and add the black-eyed peas, ham, and the browned pork and any juices. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork is cooked through and the broth thickens, about 25 minutes.

Serve the ribs on top of the greens, and ladle the broth and beans around it.

Pair With: AMERICAN PALE ALE Refreshing and clean, so it doesn’t compete with the complexity of the stew, but with nice hoppiness that goes with the greens.