f e a t u r e s

WHEN IT COMES TO A HOLIDAY showstopper turkey, time is of the essence. Each year I get a little better at executing Thanksgiving Day, like a train conductor wholeheartedly trying to pull the big meal into the station on time. Although there have been occasions when I’ve had two or three days to prepare a holiday meal, orchestrating the ballet of heaping bowls and warm platters, that’s just not the norm. The truth is that I’m usually scrambling to pull together the whole thing, including the turkey. We have a big family, so the total number of folks around the table tends to bump around until the last minute, too.

This year, I’m rolling into the fall and winter holidays prepared for anything, with a small but mighty arsenal of centerpiece-worthy turkey recipes to suit any time frame. With all of the time in the world, I can brine a whole turkey in spiced apple cider spiked with tart whole-grain mustard and fresh bay leaves, then slather it in rich apple butter and give it a slow roast.

With less time, but plenty of ingenuity, I can spatchcock a turkey, laying it out flat to roast in half the time. Briefly marinating it first, pollo asado-style with lime juice, bright orange achiote paste, and Mexican oregano, makes for juicy results (and killer leftover turkey tacos).

But who am I kidding? I could be running around with no time to spare, digging through pantry staples to find a delicious combo to flavor bone-in turkey breasts that roast quickly and still feed a crowd. I’ll choose white miso paste, soy sauce, and honey to make a sticky-sweet glaze, and then crown the bronzed bird with fragrant toasted sesame seeds and fresh green onions.

Whatever happens on Thanksgiving Day this year, I’ll be ready.

cider-brined turkey with apple butter and sage

I’ve been guilty of sometimes wondering if brining a whole turkey is really worth the effort. But this beautiful bird makes me a believer, with the flavors of apple cider, whole-grain mustard, and apple butter in every single bite. Finishing the brine with ice cubes, in lieu of water, makes quicker work of cooling it down. (Photo p. 29.) Serves 12 to 14

FOR THE BRINE 2 qt. apple cider 1 cup kosher salt ½ cup whole-grain mustard 1 Tbs. whole black peppercorns 1 Tbs. whole cloves 6 fresh bay leaves 3 cinnamon sticks 9 cups ice cubes

FOR THE TURKEY 1 13- to 14-lb. turkey, gizzards, neck, and organs removed and saved for another use ½ cup (4 oz.) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1/3 cup apple butter 1 Tbs. very finely chopped fresh sage leaves ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp. kosher salt

MAKE THE BRINE In a large stockpot, combine cider, salt, mustard, peppercorns, cloves, bay leaves, and cinnamon, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the salt. Remove from the heat; stir in ice cubes. Cool to room temperature.

PREPARE THE TURKEY Meanwhile, prepare the turkey for brining. Remove any excess fat and/or the tail (if you prefer), and loosen the skin over the breast, thighs, and legs. Place a large brining bag inside a large, stockpot or plastic bucket (that will fit in your refrigerator) and roll down the top. Place the turkey in the brining bag, and pour the brine into the bag. Seal and chill for 12 to 18 hours, turning the turkey if needed, to be sure it’s evenly submerged.

ROAST THE TURKEY Place a rack in the bottom third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, use a fork to mix together butter, apple butter, sage, pepper, and salt until well combined.

Remove the turkey from the bag, discarding the brine. Rinse the turkey thoroughly, and pat very dry with paper towels. Gently massage about half of the butter mixture under the skin and inside the cavity, coating the underside as well. Tuck the wingtips, tie the legs together with cooking twine, then spread the remaining butter mixture over the entire turkey.

Place turkey, breast-side up, on a roasting rack set inside a large roasting pan. Roast until just golden and pan juices are collecting, about 1 hour. Baste the turkey with the pan juices, and tent with foil if the skin begins to get too dark. Rotate the pan, and continue to roast, basting every 30 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the thigh muscle (away from the bone), and into the thickest part of the breast, registers 165°F, about 1 ½ to 2 hours more.

Let the turkey stand for 20 minutes, then carve and drizzle with pan drippings.

Pair With: PINOT NOIR A fruity, clove-y Pinot Noir—a New World style from California or South America, for example— works with both the roasted apple butter flavors, as well as the baking spices in the brine.

soy-miso glazed turkey breast

With a ginger-laced hoisin paste to flavor the turkey and a miso-honey glaze to baste it, the best of both sweet and savory Asian flavors come through in this fresh take on Thanksgiving turkey. Mayonnaise replaces butter as the chosen fat for deep browning and rich flavor. Serves 8 to 10

FOR THE TURKEY 3 Tbs. mayonnaise 2 Tbs. hoisin sauce 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated (about 2 tsp.) 1 large clove garlic, minced (about 1 tsp.) 2 2½ lb. bone-in, turkey breasts

FOR THE GLAZE AND GARNISH 3 Tbs. honey 3 Tbs. soy sauce 2 Tbs. white (“mellow”) miso paste 1 Tbs. white sesame seeds 2 to 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, for garnish PREPARE THE TURKEY Place a rack in the bottom half of the oven. Preheat the oven to 450°F. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, hoisin sauce, salt, sesame oil, ginger, and garlic. Pat turkey breasts dry with paper towels, and arrange in a roasting rack set into a roasting pan. Loosen the skin over the breasts, and rub the mayonnaise mixture under and over the skin to cover. Place the turkey in the oven, immediately reduce the oven temperature to 350°F, and roast for 20 minutes.

GLAZE THE TURKEY Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the honey, soy sauce, and miso paste. Baste the turkey with the glaze. Return to the oven, and continue to roast, basting every 15 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast (away from the bone) registers 165˚F, about 1 ¼ hours more. Scatter sesame seeds over the top during the last 15 minutes of roasting.

Let the turkey stand for 10 to 15 minutes, then carve, drizzle with pan drippings, and garnish with scallions.

Pair With: RIESLING Always a good choice with Asian dishes, especially ones based on white meat and fish, Riesling’s juicy acidity and light weight marry beautifully with soy sauce and white miso.

roasted pollo asado-style spatchcock turkey

Typically shredded for tacos, pollo asado usually refers to chicken, brightly flavored with fresh citrus juice, dried Mexican oregano, and achiote paste— a dense combination of ground annatto seeds, cumin, coriander, and cloves. Even with a short marinating time, turkey takes on these same flavors

beautifully. Serves 10 to 12

FOR THE TURKEY 1 11- to 12-lb. turkey, gizzards, neck, and organs removed and saved for another use

FOR THE MARINADE ¼ cup fresh lime juice, with any pulp ¼ cup fresh orange juice, with any pulp 2 Tbs. achiote paste 5 tsp. kosher salt 1 Tbs. white vinegar 1 Tbs. dried Mexican oregano 1 tsp. ground cumin 6 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

SPATCHCOCK THE TURKEY Arrange the turkey on a cutting board, breast-side down. Using kitchen shears, cut along both sides of the backbone, from tail to neck, removing the backbone completely. Pull the turkey open, and remove and discard any excess fat. Turn the turkey breast-side up. Place the palm of your hand on one side of the breast and push down firmly to break the breastbone. Repeat on the opposite side. Loosen the skin over the breast, thighs, and legs.

MARINATE THE TURKEY In a blender, add lime juice, orange juice, achiote paste, salt, vinegar, oregano, cumin, and garlic, and purée until smooth. With the motor running, add oil in a steady stream until well combined. Set aside.

Arrange the turkey, breast-side up, on a large rimmed baking sheet, stretching out the thighs and wings so the turkey lies flat. Spoon about one-third of the marinade under the skin, massaging to distribute evenly. Pour the remaining marinade over the top, and rub to coat the turkey completely. Marinate in the refrigerator, uncovered, for 1 hour.

ROAST THE TURKEY Place an oven rack in the bottom third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the turkey, breast-side up, on a large, parchment paper-lined rimmed baking sheet, ensuring the turkey is flat and the wingtips are tucked. Roast for 45 minutes, baste with the pan juices, and tent with foil if the skin begins to get too dark. Rotate the pan, and continue to roast, basting every 30 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast (away from the bone) registers 165°F, about 1½ hours.

Let the turkey stand for 20 minutes, then carve, and drizzle with the pan drippings.

Pair With: MOSCATO D’ASTI Lightly sparkling and slightly sweet, this is a great wine for Mexican food in general. Here, it’s especially apropos because of the citrus notes that echo those in the marinade.

BREAKING BIRD

Spatchcocking is a 3-step process:

1. Remove backbone. 2. Trim excess fat. 3. Press down to break the breastbone on each side. 1. 2. 3.