All Hail the Hasselback

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Try these Swedish fanned potatoes as a side for your holiday roast or bird this season. They ’re as simple as they are impressive, and they never fail to elicit appreciative swoons.

B Y L I S A K I N G S L E Y

SWEDES LOVE THEIR POTATOES, FOR GOOD REASON. Th e climate of Sweden—which ranges from pleasantly warm to cool to cold, but rarely hot—is ideal for growing them. Naturally, Swedish cooks have come up with all kinds of ways to prepare potatoes, from simple boiled new potatoes with dill to kroppkakor—potato dumplings stuff ed with onion and salt pork and served with lingonberries and cream sauce. But there is perhaps no Swedish iteration of the potato more genius than the Hasselback potato (Hasselbackspotatis).

Simply put, it’s a whole potato (peeled or not) that is cut almost through to the bottom, but not quite, at ⅛ -inch intervals, then brushed with butter or oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, and baked. Th e result is a cross between baked and roasted potatoes. Th e inside is creamy and fl uff y, while the edges of the accordian-cut slices separate as they bake, allowing heat to circulate around them, making them crisp and ethereal.

Hasselback potatoes are perfect in their most essential form, but they can also be dressed up—brushed with truffl e butter or oil; seasoned with caraway, paprika, or herbs; topped with buttered bread crumbs or grated hard cheese; stuff ed with soft cheese or roasted with small pieces of prosciutto slipped between each slice.

Most people who study this sort of thing believe they were invented in 1953 by Leif Ellison, a chef-in-training at Hasselbacken Restaurant and Hotel on Djurgården (“Th e Royal Game Park”), an island in Stockholm featuring a large open-air park and concert venue, living history museum, and amusement park.

Th e restaurant school principal was later credited in 1955, but I’d like to think it was the rookie cook who created such a brilliant recipe from only a humble tuber, butter, salt, and pepper.

classic hasselback potatoes

This is the Hasselback at its most essential. While the 1953 original called for butter, this recipe uses olive oil. Either fat helps create a nicely browned and crispy edge on the slices. Serves 4

Nonstick cooking spray 4 8-oz. russet or sweet potatoes or eight 4-oz. Yukon Gold potatoes 2 Tbs. olive oil, divided Kosher salt and black pepper

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then coat foil with cooking spray.

For each potato, cut a thin slice, lengthwise from the bottom so it stands without rolling. Arrange two chopsticks or two ½-inch-thick wooden spoons lengthwise on opposite sides of the potato. Slice into each potato crosswise at 18-inch intervals, stopping when knife reaches chopsticks. Arrange potatoes on the baking sheet, then brush with 1 Tbs. oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Bake for 30 minutes. Brush the potatoes with the remaining 1 tbs. oil and, if desired, season with more salt and pepper. Roast until the potatoes are tender and edges are crisp, 20 to 30 minutes.

hasselback potatoes with herbs and seasoned bread crumbs

A mixture of seasoned bread crumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, fresh chives, fresh thyme, and butter is sprinkled over the baked potatoes, then given a quick broil to create a crisp and flavorful topping. Serves 8

Nonstick cooking spray 8 medium russet potatoes (6 to 8 oz. each) 5 Tbs. butter, melted, divided Salt 3 Tbs. seasoned fine dry bread crumbs 2 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese 1 Tbs. snipped fresh chives 1 tsp. snipped fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then coat foil with cooking spray.

For each potato, cut a thin slice, lengthwise from the bottom so it stands without rolling. Arrange two chopsticks or two ½-inch-thick wooden spoons lengthwise on opposite sides of the potato. Slice into each potato crosswise at 18-inch intervals, stopping when knife reaches chopsticks. Arrange potatoes on the baking sheet, then brush with 2 Tbs. melted butter and sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt. Cover with foil.

Bake for 45 minutes. Uncover, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes more or until tender. Remove the potatoes from the oven. Position a rack 4 to 5 inches from the heat, and preheat the broiler.

In a small bowl, stir together the bread crumbs, cheese, chives, thyme, and ½ tsp. salt. Sprinkle potatoes evenly with crumb mixture. Carefully spoon on remaining 3 Tbs. melted butter, covering all of the crumb mixture.

Broil the potatoes for 2 to 3 minutes or until the topping is golden brown.

SLICE IT RIGHT

To ensure that you cut just almost all of the way through the potato, place wooden chopsticks or the handles of two wooden spoons (be sure they’re the same size) on either size of the spud. They’ll stop the knife in its tracks. You can also invest in a Hasselback potato cutter, which ensures perfectly even slices.

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cheesy hasselback potatoes

This recipe applies the Hasselback technique to fingerling potatoes, but the fans are filled with semisoft cheese and topped with herbed buttered bread crumbs. Serves 6

Nonstick cooking spray 12 fingerling potatoes (about 1¾ lb.) 3 Tbs. butter, melted, divided 1 5.2-oz. pkg. semisoft cheese with garlic and herbs 2 Tbs. fine dry bread crumbs 2 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary 2 tsp. lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, then coat foil with cooking spray.

For each potato, cut a thin slice from the bottom, so it stands without rolling. Arrange two chopsticks or two ½-inch-thick wooden spoons lengthwise on opposite sides of the potato. Slice into each potato crosswise at 18-inch intervals, stopping when knife reaches chopsticks. Arrange the potatoes on the baking sheet. Brush with 2 Tbs. butter. Cover with foil. Bake for 45 minutes.

In a small bowl, microwave the semisoft cheese on 50 percent power for 20 seconds. Place in a plastic bag; snip one corner. In a small bowl, combine bread crumbs, Parmesan, remaining 1 Tbs. melted butter, and rosemary. Uncover potatoes. Use a butter knife to open layers, and pipe cheese between slices. Sprinkle with the bread crumb mixture. Bake 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon zest.