Le Guess Who? Treasure Guide 2016

10 th anniversary edition 10 - 13 november 2016

utrecht - netherlands leguesswho.com

treasure guide

photographer: Juri Hiensch

INDEX

4 Mega Record & CD Fair + Record Stores in Utrecht 5 Artist Profiles 6 Why You Should Know Patty Waters 7 LGW? Treasures 8 Le Gig Poster 9 Le Mini Who? Special

13 Artist Profiles 14 LGW? Treasures 15 Year 10 Artwork 16 Artist Profiles 17 Terrie Ex Interview 18 Artist Profiles 19 LGW? Treasures 20 Memories of Le Guess Who?

EDITORIAL NOTE We proudly present you this year’s edition of the Le Guess Who? Treasure Guide. Le Guess Who? is not just a festival, it encompasses the entirety of the city of Utrecht with its lively cultural infrastructure. Our aim with this festival guide is not only to excite you for the festival itself but to excite you for the city Utrecht and its dynamic, culturally diverse, and cosy vibe as well. We’re helping you to find your way through the city with our so-called ‘treasures’: locations that, according to us, captivate the charm of our little city. But of course we encourage you to discover much, much more on your own.

RENT A BIKE

FREE WIFI

LE GUESS WHO? HOTEL SHIP

Utrecht is the ‘city of cycling’. Every day thousands of people cycle through the city centre to get around. During Le Guess Who? there are multiple shops where you can rent a bike, so you can travel quickly from venue to venue and experience the city the way the locals do.

To make sure that you don’t miss any Le Guess Who? news, you can access Free Wifi Utrecht. It’s available at four market squares across the city centre; Neude Square, Dom Square (Domplein), Vredenburg Square (behind TivoliVredenburg), and Korte Minrebroederestraat (behind City Hall). You can also access free wifi at TivoliVredenburg.

That’s right! We have a special hotel ship during the 10th edition of Le Guess Who?. Her name is ‘Olympia’ and she’s located near the city centre.

You can book a 2-person cabin for your entire festival stay (4 nights; check-in on 10 November) with breakfast included.

De Fietsenwinkel Laag Catharijne, Nachtegaalstraat 1 In previous years these fine gentlemen were located next to TivoliVredenburg, but due to construction they had to relocate. During Le Guess Who? you can find them at the Nachtegaalstraat 1. For €7,50 per day, you can rent a bike with your ID as a deposit, or a copy of your ID and €100.

Willemstraatbike, Willemstraat 22 This bike shop is very conveniently located, close to our main venue TivoliVredenburg: it’s located at the corner of the Bergstraat and the Willemstraat. For €7,- per day, you can rent a bike with your ID as a deposit.

Utrecht Fietsen, Nobelstraat 293 The friendly folks at the Nobelstraat will surely have a nice chat with you while they get you your bike. With your LGW? festival wristband you can rent a bike for €5 per day with a €30,- deposit.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 2

The Olympia has a lounge and bar, and the cabins come with air conditioning, TV, a private shower and toilet.

If you’d like to sleep comfortably on a hotel ship during Le Guess Who?, visit bit.ly/LGW16-accommodation

QUESTIONS If you have any questions about Le Guess Who?, the program or anything else, please feel free to email us at info@leguesswho.com and we will get back to you as soon as possible.

COLOFON Cover Photography: Juri Hiensch Design: Loudmouth Editors: Barry Spooren, Max van der Riet, Manon Marijs, Jessica Clark, Rinke Vreeke & Jacob Hagelaars Treasures: Max van der Riet & Manon Marijs More info at leguesswho.nl

5 YEARS LE MINI WHO? Not only are we celebrating 10 years of Le Guess Who? this year - our sister Le Mini Who? is also celebrating her 5th Anniversary!

On Saturday, 12 November (Breedstraatbuurt), and Sunday, 13 November (Ooster- & Westerkade) in the daytime, Le Mini Who? will showcase all the good things the Dutch underground has to offer in locations like record & clothing shops, bars, hotels and restaurants. Cult market Le

Bazarre will take place at Neude Square again on Saturday. As always: all is free of entrance.

Le Mini Who? will host a special 5th Anniversary party at ACU on Saturday, 12 November. It’s free of entrance and features Lost Bear, Crying Boys Cafe, The Fire Harvest, The Sweet Release of Death, Bonne Aparte and Cocaine Piss.

Read more in the Le Mini Who? Special, starting on page 9.

10 YEARS OF LE GUESS WHO? A PHOTO EXHIBITION

BY JURI HIENSCH IN THE CITY CENTER

Discover ten years of Le Guess Who? in the city center of Utrecht! At several prominent locations throughout the city you can find photos taken during a decade of Le Guess Who? by Dutch photographer Juri Hiensch. Juri has managed to vividly capture many memorable and unique moments within the history of Le Guess Who? In the words of Juri himself: "A decade of renewal: that applies to both me and Le Guess Who?. It has been my favorite festival since the day it started.

Okay, we share the same roots in pop venue Tivoli and yes, Le Guess Who? corresponds exactly to my musical preferences, but there is much more to it!

Programmers Johan (hero) and Bob are not lead by anything but their own gut.

Every edition of the festival can be considered as a tryout with the many seemingly impossible, obscure or new artists that they book. At the same time, these are the artists that eventually

become an inseparable part of the festival itself. As a concert photographer, my gut is my leading factor as well; there are no real other influences in my photography.

This was especially the case ten years back, when I rarely saw work of colleagues and experimented on my own: working a lot with back-light (or contrejour modernly speaking). My photography can also be seen as a tryout every time, but at the same time I have a recognizable style with recurring darlings. I do not have much interest in exposure details.

Dark shots and shots with contrast are what makes my stomach feel funny, but in a good way ;) One of the bands that became a part of the festival and continued to come back is Suuns, also a favorite band of mine. At the end of their first show at the festival in 2011, I shot a photo on stage that was later discussed in an interview for not being credited. A year later I met Max

(who plays the keyboard) and revealed myself as the John Doe photographer in question. After we made some small talk, I shot my first artist portrait of Max. This was the birth of a new passion. Three years ago I decided to take it slow on live photography and to focus more on portraits. Le Guess Who? is an exception: some shows are just too good not to capture. Savages with Bo Ningen, par example, was a crazy show with killer drums and flying guitars. Last year I managed to get the Bo Ningen crew in a portrait after quite some struggles with gathering the band members throughout the maze that is called TivoliVredenburg.

Some dubious agreements were made but the shot turned out great."

If you’re interested to see some more of Juri’s work, check out www.jurihiensch.nl

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 3

46 MEGA RECORD & CD FAIR TH

of rare punk ephemera, including posters, flyers, tickets and punk clothing from the year 1976.

Additionally, you can visit a Prince tribute and exhibition, curated by the knowledgeable Dutch collectors Arno and Marcel Konings.

THE PLACE TO BE FOR ALL THINGS MUSIC

On Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th of November, Jaarbeurs Utrecht will host the 46th edition of the Mega Record and CD Fair. Covering 12.500 square meters with over 500 stands, it goes without saying that this is the biggest record fair in the world.

There are dealers from as far as Japan, Canada, North and South America and South Africa: it’s a musical melting pot where all music lovers can immerse themselves in some good old and contemporary vinyl records, CDs, music memorabilia and more.

CLINTON HEYLIN AND THE BIRTH OF PUNK This edition of the Mega Record & CD Fair has much more to offer than an overwhelming amount of records. A book signing takes place by special guest, author Clinton Heylin, who has recently published his book ‘Anarchy in the year zero’: the story about the birth of punk. To coincide with the release of his book, there is an exhibition

LIVE PERFORMANCES, MEET AND GREETS & A POP QUIZ Besides exhibitions, the fair is also not shy of live performances: hard-rock band Helloïse, rockabilly duo The Sensational Cousins and Australian folk duo Kenna & Cox will be performing live at the fair.

You can meet and greet Dutch punk bands such as Ivy Green and Panic at the launch of the ‘I don’t care’ part 2 Dutch punk compilation, or wander around and attend other record launches that take place. If you’re searching for rare records or memorabilia, you won’t be disappointed in the auction that is organized by Omega Auctions. Want to bring your musical knowledge to the test? Join the free pop quiz on Sunday!

There are simply so many different things to do and to see, that you’re going to have to prepare for a “torrid, slightly narcotic daydream”, according to The Quietus. You’ll just have to see for yourself.

Saturday Nov. 12th: 9.00 – 17.00 and Sunday Nov. 13th: 10.00 – 17.00 Door ticket: €14,Online pre-sale: € 12,50 Children up to 11 years get in for free For more information visit www.recordplanet.nl

RECORD STORES IN UTRECHT STILL LUSTING FOR MORE RECORDS AFTER VISITING THE MEGA RECORD & CD FAIR? UTRECHT IS HOME TO SOME FINE RECORD STORES AS WELL PLATO www.platomania.nl, Voorstraat 35 Tuesday-Saturday 10:00-18:00, Monday and Sunday from 12:00 For every music enthusiast, Plato is the designated place to wander around and aimlessly browse through their huge collection of CDs, LPs, music magazines and DVDs. If you’ve just discovered your new favorite artist at Le Guess Who?, head over to Plato, because they will definitely be the one selling their music.

Special LGW? discount: if you show your festival wristband you get 10% off on your purchase! (this does not include secondhand items, concert tickets and gift vouchers)

DE GRAMMOPHOON WINKEL Oudegracht 26 Wednesday-Saturday, 11:30-18:00 Get ready to dig up your old VHS player from the attic, because besides a large amount of secondhand CDs, LPs and DVDs, De Grammophoon Winkel also sells VHS records. As the oldest record store in Utrecht, they’ll possibly sell some of your long sought-after collector’s items.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 4

SWORDFISH & FRIEND www.swordfishandfriend.com, Oudkerkhof 43 Tuesday-Friday ,11:00-19:00; Saturday 11:00-17:00; Sunday 12:00-17:00 This record store houses some fancy Crosley record players and a nice vinyl collection. But that’s not all: because the owners Tessa and Marlein also have a thing for all that’s creative, their store is not just about music: it merges music, illustration, photography, art and furniture.

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and get a 10% discount on their C10 Crosley record player!

PLAATBOEF www.plaatboef.nl, Oudegracht 306 Tuesday-Friday, 11:00-18:00; Monday 13:00-18:00; Saturday 11:00-17:00 Plaatboef is a traditional record store on De Oudegracht and has been there since 1985: no knick knackery, just records! And loads of them, both new and secondhand: you name it, Plaatboef has got it.

LES FILLES DE ILLIGHADAD: SOUL-PURGING TUAREG-BLUES FROM RURAL NIGER, LIVE OUTSIDE OF AFRICA FOR THE FIRST TIME Fatou Seidi Ghali and Alamnou Akrouni both reside in Illighadad – a tiny village assembled of mud houses in rural Niger.

Fatou plays the tende, as well as an old blue guitar, chipped and dried, slightly bent because of the extreme weather. Her playing is measured and calm, and she is one of only two Tuareg female guitarists in what is a male dominated genre.

Together with her cousin, vocalist Alamnou Akrouni, Les Filles de Illighadad strip the Tuareg music from all progressive leanings, right back to its bare essence. Various Western African artists have expanded the Tuareg-blues movement on a global scale, but rarely have these soul-purging sounds resonated so candidly and emotively.

The tende is played at night in Illighadad.

In a place with the absence of sound, no

hum of electricity, no cars, and no white noise, the instrument’s sound travels far.

As the village plays, people begin to come. You can see them in the distance, little lights dancing in the darkness, growing in intensity, from every direction, like fireflies drawn in from the night. This is communal music poured straight from the heart, performed to comfort the sick, to entertain the people and to blend in with the radiant ambience of the environment.

We’re pleased to announce that Les Filles de Illighadad will play a total of three times at Le Guess Who?, at three different locations. These performances mark the first time Fatou and Alamnou tour outside of their homeland.

SCOTT FAGAN: A GREAT LONG-LOST PSYCHFOLK VOICE FROM THE 60S, PERFORMING LIVE IN EUROPE FOR THE VERY FIRST TIME Fagan’s deeply soulful masterpiece, ‘South Atlantic Blues’ (1968) is a gorgeous synthesis of Donovan-ish pop, jazz, R&B and Caribbean sounds, with a grandiose vocal delivery that recalls Scott Walker and Bowie. Fagan recorded the album when he was just 21 and virtually homeless. The album sadly fizzled into obscurity, before being rediscovered in 2013.

Fagan (who was later discovered to be the biological father of Magnetic Fields’

Stephin Merritt) is finally receiving recognition for being the trailblazer that he is, and at this year’s Le Guess Who?, he will perform ‘South Atlantic Blues’ in full—marking one of his first ever European shows.

Scott Fagan performs at TivoliVredenburg’s Grote Zaal on Sunday, 13 November.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 5

WHY YOU SHOULD KNOW MYSTICAL JAZZ SINGER PATTY WATERS And witness her rare performance at Le Guess Who? 2016, according to Circuit des Yeux, Jerusalem in my Heart, Sam Shalabi (The Dwarfs of East Agouza), Tom Carter and Heather Leigh.

A staple artist of radical 60s free jazz label ESP-Disk, Patty Waters’s sheer gravitas and mysticism as a vocalist charmed the likes of Miles Davis, Charles Mingus and Chick Corea. For the past decades, her influence has spread far beyond the realms of avant-garde and jazz: rock icons such as Patti Smith, Diamanda Galás, Thurston Moore and Lydia Lunch are all huge fans. Despite performing few and far between since the 70s, Waters’ tortured 14-minute interpretation of folk classic Black Is The Color Of My True Love’s Hair remains a testament to the power of human expression.

“She is a high flying bird, and the first I ever heard, that could conjure a full spectrum of emotion through voice.

Her ability to remain fragile and open, exploratory, inviting, free, (but not flashy) makes her one of the most accomplished vocalists of our time.

I wish that more people were privy to her talent. I love the record “College Tour”, where I feel her spirit floats the most, but recommend “Patty Sings” for those unfamiliar. She invites you in like a full moon on a hot summer’s night on side A, then successfully sends you into a mind trip on “Black is the Color”. She is truly a one of a kind musician and I just can’t wait to see her live.”

— HALEY FOHR/CIRCUIT DES YEUX

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 6

“Patty Waters Sings is a flaming beacon at the pinnacle of the ESP-Disk’ woodpile.

On it, Waters manifests the formidable triad of her talents: her melancholy songs (a neglected yet astonishing page in the American songbook); her chilling whispered delivery; the harrowing blast of her full-throated cry (an aspect fully developed in the interstellar spaces of her other ESP LP, College Tour). Her poise and mystery and voice, so well-displayed on these and later recordings, remains undiminished -- and will no doubt rearrange the ears on your head.”

— TOM CARTER

“Reading an interview with Diamanda Galás many a year ago, I was intrigued by her referencing Patty Waters as a major influence. I immediately bought the ‘College Tour’ LP. I was really confused upon first listen, as I had not heard any music like Patty Waters up until that point. Vocal performances that were undeniably innovative, bold and very moving.

I immediately fell in love with the propositions Patty Waters was making on this album. Both her “Patty Waters Sings” and “College Tour” LP’s remain just as compelling now as they were in the 60’s.

Timeless mastery - and certainly not to be missed at Le Guess Who?!”

— JERUSALEM IN MY HEART

“It’s interesting that the voice innovators within jazz during the 60s and early 70s were all women - for me, the most captivating were Linda Sharrock, Jeanne Lee, Annette Peacock and Patty Waters.

In a way, Waters is like a continuation of Betty Carter or Dinah Washington; her approach is a unique extension of a more ‘smooth’ jazz vocal style that during the 60s she shaped into a psychedelic vocal music completely her own (as heard on her two seminal ESP albums).

There’s a languid lilt to everything she sings - even - as on her most famous performance, “Black Is The Color”, she mines a depth of pain, ecstasy and despondency through her own extended, invented vocal techniques. There’s a deep spirituality in her voice and music - and a sense of control / losing control that also brings out a carnality and seduction.

Much of the vocal music I write has her voice with its steely silk otherworldliness in there - as a kind of mental scratch track. So many singers would not be doing what they are today without her music (and most don’t even know it) and it’s high time she was included in the ‘canon’ of jazz music and music in general. It’s time for everyone to discover Patty Waters.”

— SAM SHALABI (THE DWARFS OF EAST AGOUZA)

“The covers of Patty Waters’ two ESP Disks are irresistible, enigmatic, perhaps my favourite cover shots of all time, and they make for a pair of reflective twins, with College Tour (blurry would-be Manson girl) the more far-reaching and formally explosive, and Sings (desolate high-contrast torch singer) the more intimate, the more internally implosive and perhaps the one I return to the most, especially the first side that showcases her perfectly-formed compositions, which feel like weirdly occulted standards, lunar ballads, haunted by heart wrenching melodies and visions of love and loneliness in lines like “With nothing more than feelings...she needs you” (Why Can’t I Come To You) that somehow capture the essence of her work.

Patty’s recordings were some of the first ESP Disks I heard as a young woman and they opened up the possibilities of the voice and suggested strategies for finding my own. Indeed, the twin poles of College Tour and Sings, the contrast of the extreme sounds and the simple melodies, reflect the alpha and omega of my own music.”

— HEATHER LEIGH Patty Waters will give an extremely rare performance as part of our 10th Anniversary on Sunday, 13 November, at TivoliVredenburg’s Grote Zaal. It will be her sixth show in over 50 years.

photographer Lars Verkroost Photography

CARLA’S CONDITORIE www.carlassmaak.nl, Achter de Dom 6 Monday-Friday, 08:00-17:00 (opens Saturday at 09:00, Sunday at 10:00)

photographer Rachel Schraven

RABARBER www.rabarber-utrecht.nl, Zadelstraat 20 Tuesday-Sunday, 09:00-20:00

ANA’S KUZIN

This charming ‘petit café’ is a great spot for some morning and afternoon goodness. From a nice espresso to a healthy (or unhealthy) breakfast, or even an early beer, it’s all here. Breakfast, brunch and lunch is served from 09:00 untill 17:00. After 17:00, you’re welcome for beers and light bites.

Special LGW? discount aka the ‘Early Bird’ discount: order your breakfast before 11:30 and get 10% off plus one free Bloody Mary Shrimp Shot.

www.anaskuzin.nl, Voorstraat 62 Open Daily 12:00-21:00 Ana's Kuzin is a Turkish restaurant steeped in tradition. Let these Turkish women nurture you with various treats from their homeland, including small bites, full meals, and lots in between.

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and get a free piece of baklava with your order!

THE VILLAGE www.thevillagecoffee.nl, Voorstraat 46 Monday-Friday 08:00-18:00; Saturday 09:00 open; Sunday 10:00 open

Just behind the Dom Tower lies the small confectionery Carla’s Conditorie.

Taste the delicious cookies and pies that Carla bakes fresh daily, or try the homemade bread with one of the many yummy spreads. With strong Scandinavian influences and a classy and chic decor, Carla’s is one of the most luscious locations in Utrecht.

The Village and Le Guess Who? have been fast friends for a long time.

These worthy gentlemen not only make excellent coffee, they also enjoy the music we do. Swing by for a chat and enjoy your warm cup of coffee.

Special LGW? discount: get 10% off with your festival wristband.

FOOD AND THE CITY www.foodandthecity-utrecht.nl, Voorstraat 30 Monday-Saturday 14:30-21:30 This small shop at the Voorstraat makes honest and delicious meals every day.

Food and the City doesn’t believe in preservatives, that’s why their fresh Mediterranean dishes are prepared freshly each time.

photographer Liselotte Gijzemijter

– Food & Drinks –

TREASURES

L O C AT E D A R O U N D T H E AT E R K I K K E R , S TA D S S C H O U W B U R G A N D A C U – To do –

GALLERY SANAA

PUHA

www.galeriesanaa.nl, Jansdam 2 Wednesday-Saturday 12:00-18:00

www.puhashop.nl, Voorstraat 48 Thursday 11:00-20:00; Friday 11:00-18:00; Saturday 10:0017:00; Sunday 13:00-17:00

Gallery SANAA is an exhibition space for modern-day, two- and three-dimensional art made

by African and Dutch artists.

SANAA is on the lookout for art with depth; art that is dynamic, diverse and hybrid. You’ll find this in the exhibitions, debates and artist talks they host. According to SANAA, art doesn't play by the rules: when cultures collide and borders disappear, it will result in the most exciting pieces of art.

Designer shop PUHA houses trinkets, clothing, jewellery, and various odds & ends from over 50 different designers. They’ve also created a unique shopping guide that features a variety of shops in Utrecht. Pop in and get inspired!

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and get 10% off on your purchase.

HUTSPOT www.hutspotamsterdam.com/locations/ hutspot-utrecht/, Vinkenburgstraat 19 Monday-Saturday 10:00-19:00; Thursday till 21:00; Sunday 12:00-17:00 The Utrecht store of this Amsterdam-based company is celebrating its 1 year anniversary during Le Guess Who?. Hutspot is the curator of an urbanised lifestyle, which means they give both local and international entrepreneurs, brands & artists a stage for their products. If you like creative, innovative or sustainable concepts, Hutspot is a destination you shouldn't miss.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 7

LE GIG POSTER? AN INTERNATIONAL GIG POSTER EXPOSITION

On the first floor of TivoliVredenburg you can find some of the best and most beautiful silkscreened, custommade concert posters, designed by 45 national and international gig poster artists from the US, England, France, Spain, Germany, Italy, Canada, China, Austria and The Netherlands.

All exhibited posters are official pieces of artwork and established in cooperation with the depicted artist and hosting venues. Most posters are for sale, so don’t miss out on your chance to purchase the limited edition silkscreens of your favorite band or artist while the supply lasts.

Like last year, some of the poster artist will be present at the festival and they’ll be more than happy to answer your questions!

Highlights in the exhibition include Boss Construction (USA), Señor Burns (DE), Wytse Sterk

(NL), The Bicycle Press (ES), Crosshair (USA), Douze (DE), The Impossible Machine (NL), Spiegelsaal (DE), Zum Heimathafen (DE), Lil’ Tuffy (USA), Rainbow Posters (DE), Willem Kolvoort (NL), John Howard (USA), Michael Hacker (AT) and Handprinted Stuff (NL), among many outstanding others.

Le Gig Poster? is initiated by silk screen artist Joris Diks (Handprinted Stuff). The exhibition will be open daily throughout the festival. For more information visit www.legigposter.com

FIRST FLOOR OF TIVOLIVREDENBURG Like at our previous editions, there are various things you can do at TivoliVredenburg’s First Floor (free of entrance). Here, you’ll find Le Gig Poster?, as well as our bearded friends from The Village with their own coffee stand. You can get their notoriously delicious coffee, made of the beans they’ve roasted in their own roastery. Take a seat here, because together with the music lovers at Plato, they will fill the First Floor with the tunes you'll want to hear.

LE GUESS WHO? MERCHANDISE New Le Guess Who? merchandise is available at the little market square we’ve built. Sweaters, shirts, hats and tote bags are for sale at our Le Guess Who? merchandise stand. We also sell LPs of Selda Bagcan - Live at Le Guess Who? 2014. There are only a few copies left of this record, so you’ll have to be quick if you still want one.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 8

— 5TH ANNIVERSARY —

BREEDSTRAAT BUURT SAT NOV 12 2 pm — 10 pm

OOSTER + WESTERKADE SUN NOV 13 1 pm — 4 pm

LINE UP & TIME SCHEDULE AVAILABLE AT ALL LE MINI WHO? LOCATIONS OR VIA FACEBOOK.COM/ LEMINIWHO AND ALSO AT LEMINIWHO.NL COLOFON Le Mini Who? Dreamteam Rinke Vreeke Jacob Hagelaars

Illustrations & Design Bobbi Oskam Lyanne Tonk

LE MINI WHO? SPECIAL 5TH ANNIVERSARY Over the past years, Le Mini Who? has grown rapidly, and finally, it is about to face adulthood. And just like real adults, we don’t get all emotional about it. But! Since we’re not fully mature yet (come on, five years isn’t THAT old), we still enjoy a bit of fun and games with our friends. So, in a nutshell… we’re throwing a party! A birthday party to be precise, one that will last all day long, inviting as many friends as possible! Thanks to all the beautiful artists, independent labels and booking agencies (you know who you

are) our lives have been enriched with so much amazing music over the years.

And, because of our combined efforts, Le Mini Who? has become a valuable showcase event that will remain freely accessible. Oh damn, I guess we are getting a little bit emotional after all…!

Moreover, we are delighted to announce a special 5th Anniversary event in ACU. Entrance is free, of course. We already invited this fantastic sextet of bands... and now we’re inviting you!

Rinke & Jacob

LM W? LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 9

VOORSTRAAT & SURROUNDINGS

INSIDER TIP! INSIDER TIP! INSIDER TIP! INSIDER TIP!

BEACHES BREW IN URECHT

Stranded FM

Live radio at Le Mini Who?!

Launched last year, the gentlemen from Stranded FM upped their gear this summer and got a neat location in the heart of the city centre. Their credos are exploration, curiosity and diversity – in music and broader cultural sense. Whether you want to enjoy noise, punk, afrobeat, leftfield electronics or cutting-edge bass music – they do it, we love it. Therefore it is no secret they’re big admirers of Le Guess Who?. As you’re probably aware of, Le Mini Who? stands for showcasing the exciting and promising acts during daytime, all around town. Therefore Stranded FM will open up their

space, to you, music freaks wandering around Utrecht.

Saturday will be a special Le Mini Who? adventure. The studio is cosy (read: tiny), but has enough space for acoustic sessions and cold beverages for you to enjoy. Which artists are performing and when - you can read all about in on their website (www.stranded.fm). Moreover, the Stranded resident deejays will do festival reports and accordingly play Le Guess Who? themed shows. We gladly invite you all to hop by during opening hours at Hardebollenstraat 6. Too hungover or just lazy? Stay in bed and tune in at stranded.fm!

We invited our favorite Italians from Beaches Brew Festival to host a stage at Le Mini Who? and they asked their friends to join them in MOIRA! Every band is mindblowing in a totally different way, not to be missed. Introducing....

Where do these guys come from? Their album is called More Iran, but their sound goes beyond the Iranian border. These musical globetrotters definitely like to flirt with jazz, flamenco, psychedelic pop and particularly Anatolian rock (mostly because of the ba lama, a Turkish string instrument). Against all odds, Mohama Saz is from Madrid. Surprise! They booked a flight to the Netherlands, only to play this exclusive show for you. And that, dear reader, will surprise you even more.

Istvan —

Blue Crime — Blue Crime is an

Their debut-album (out on Bronson Recordings) is almost totally instrumental, influenced by heavy psych as well as contemporary doom wizards, and inspired by German physician and religious poet Angelus Silesius. Through stoner riffs, doomy tempos and rarefied drones, the Istvan sound is like a vulcanic heat enveloping post-rock mists.

SYRiously good music Over the past year many newcomers have arrived in the Netherlands, including from Syria. People with talents, dreams and ambitions. With restaurant Syr the Gys Foundation has started a project where they can use

Memories of Must-sees, according LE MINI to The Sweet WHO?, by Release of Death Pip Blom

INSIDER TIP! INSIDER TIP! INSIDER TIP! INSIDER TIP!

Cocaine Piss —

“Brilliantly named, they play songs that are just short bursts of screaming violence. Listening to Cocaine Piss takes us back to a dark Waterfront (a great Rotterdam venue, long gone) watching Melt-Banana, a Japanese punk band that employs the same war strategy. I remember just being slammed with volume, insanely fast and short songs, guitar riffs, and screaming. This was a turning point for us in many ways, for example: it was the start of our pleasant journey into hearing loss, because we were too young to understand that we should bring earplugs to a gig and the volume was nothing short of ear shattering. You could feel it in every part of your body. Our advice to you is: bring hearing protection.”

Kanipchen-Fit — “Kanipchen-fit employs a different kind of energy, but is very powerful nonetheless. They’re a part Dutch, part American three-piece. The songs seem simple, but there’s something catchy and upbeat about them. There’s also some dancing. Actually a lot of dancing. We last saw them in some kind of circus tent at the Root Camp Festival in Rotterdam, sun was shining.

There’s something inspiring about watching the singer hop about and dance. You see people laughing about it at first, but she keeps going, gets people to join in. There’s a certain thing about seeing someone being 120% into it. It’s contagious, and before you know it, you’re dancing yourself. Our advice to you is: dance.”

LM W? LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 10

Mohama Saz —

Amsterdam-based band that makes mysterious psych pop with fuzzy guitars, rolling drums, stunning bass lines and lyrical, fragile vocals, Moon Pop is what the band calls it. A gritty and hypnotic foursome dressed in white robes with a wild side.

these talents and further develop their skills, making them feel at home in Utrecht and take part in Dutch society. While visitors are enjoying delicious Syrian dishes with a European twist, a bond will be formed between different cultures. At Le Mini Who? Syr is showcasing some of the finest Syrian musicians we have in our midst today, including singer Wasim Arslan, the Ornin Ensemble and Ud player/singer Nawras Altaky.

Location: Gys (Voorstraat 77).

“I visited Le Mini Who? for the first time last year.

I really liked walking around Utrecht, searching for cool bands. Best thing I’ve seen was Bombay. They played in a small coffee shop that was hardly big enough for the band, let alone an audience.

I got there in time because I really wanted to see them.

There were maybe 19 other lucky ones. The rest of the crowd had to stand outside and look through the windows. Which all contributed to a great gig with a great vibe. Bombay rocked, grooved and played all their new songs for the first time. Simply great!”

12/13 NOVEMBER 2016

The Return of

Paul Hoek

He is painter He is writer He is musician He is funny He is one of a kind He is one of our favorites He was here last year He is back this year

MONDAYS SUCK, Well, here's the solution. MONDAYS is the pseudonym of three music nerds from Utrecht putting up shows of their favorite underground bands. You can join them for (post-)punk, psych, garage and anything else that shakes off the 'ugh' feeling that the first day of the week gives you. At Le Mini Who? they’ll host the stage at The Village Coffee & Music and invited USA Nails, Charlie & The Lesbians and Black Wednesdays. And there's more! Each event MONDAYS presents a little market. That means: exclusive 7-inches and tapes, but also T-shirts, pins and prints from several international artists and labels. Cool eh? Now you can say you're looking forward to MONDAYS. Who would've thought.

PLAY THE BELLYHORN!

Dianne Verdonk — performer, composer and instrument developer seeks the ultimate, personal form of musical expression in the creation and performance of electroacoustic music. Bellyhorn is her second instrument which she developed during her recent residency at Gaudeamus Muziekweek in cooperation with four designers based at Vechtclub XL in Utrecht. Dianne will be playing and provoking this big, huggable instrument in Klijs & Boon to see what new music it can breed. Also, you are warmly invited to play Bellyhorn too! So please come and try the low sub-bass tones of the Bellyhorn, cuddle or spread out on its belly to hug its vibrations. Beware: this instrument needs your body to be played.

DICE

YOU SAY?

ONE MORE TIME, WITH GREAT FEELING

At this years Le Mini Who?, Kapitaal is hosting their very last event in their beautiful current location, since they’re moving to another beautiful place in 2017. And it will be a very very special goodbye party. Subbacultcha! will be hosting some extraordinary acts (Alex Cameron, Happy Meals, and The Mandolin Sisters, the latter presented by Pantropical). Rammenas Roots Rock Kitchen will provide your delicious meals and Kapitaal

will have one last exhibition hanging on their walls. Six upcoming designers and illustrators were asked to create a silkscreen print for one of the many acts playing at Le Mini Who? this year. The results will be shown in several windows of local residents in the neighborhood. In Kapitaal, these very limited silkscreens will also be sold. We already put you on their guestlist, so come over and let’s make this goodbye a happy one.

DICE is a recurring evening, scheduled around international showcase festivals like The Great Escape and Reeperbahn – moments when loads of new and

exciting bands are on the road. From hundreds of bands touring the area around these festivals, the DICE team cherry picks a number of promising artists to make their debut in Utrecht.

Expect a broad selection of musical styles, ranging from uplifting garage rock to intimate singer-songwriters and on to new live electronic performances. DICE is a collaboration between TivoliVredenburg, EKKO and Friendly Fire. After rolling the DICE twice before, they are preparing a third edition for early 2017. Join us at Le Mini Who? in Stathe to get a small taste of the most promising new artists.

LOUDMOUTH OPENS OFFICE

Maybe you’ve never heard of Loudmouth, but we’re sure you have seen what they create. For years Robert and his team are responsible for the Le Guess Who? website, merchandise and poster designs.

This year Loudmouth will also be responsible for transforming their tiny studio into a super exclusive stage, inviting Drive Like Maria and Traumahelikopter. Don’t be late, as capacity is limited!

Koen (Subroutine Records) is a big fan of The Avonden:

"The Avonden" (which means The Evenings,

but foremost a nod to classic Dutch novel De Avonden) is the latest musical incarnation of songwriter, author & (cult)cartoonist Marc van der Holst. Originally hailing from the blossoming Dutch Flower Strip, he played and wrote songs in a number of bands, including the seminal Hospital Bombers.

With Spilt Milk he incorporated the poetry of

dead poets like Robert Frost, William Carlos Williams and Wallace Stevens into songs.

The latter returns in one of the songs on the captivating 2016 debut ‘Nachtschade’ of The Avonden. Seventeen quiet songs about little monkeys, pure evil, robot-cows, stillwater & blackberry jam. Probably the most original, unpretentious and naively beautiful collection of songs in Dutch I know.”

LM W? LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 11

— LE BAZARRE —

LM W? LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 12

EX

TR

A

EX

TR

A

EX

TR

A

JUNUN ISRAELI COMPOSER SHYE BEN TZUR & RADIOHEAD-GUITARIST JONNY GREENWOOD REUNITE WITH THE RAJASTHAN EXPRESS AS CLOSING ACT OF LE GUESS WHO? 2016

Inside a 15th century Mehrangarh fort in Rajasthan, India, Shye Ben Tzur and Jonny Greenwood met the Rajasthan Express: an Indian ensemble featuring sermonizing qawwali singers, exuberant Manganiyar-performers, and a free-form brass section.

Junun (meaning “the madness of love”) merges meditative spirit singing, upbeat raga grooves and newfangled fanfare jazz to form one cosmic wavelength. The project epitomizes the eclectic sound of India in the most forward-thinking and innovative ways imaginable.

In 2015, Junun released their eponymous double album (recorded in the fort and produced by Radiohead’s Nigel Godrich), as well as a documentary film of the same name (directed by Paul Thomas Anderson). One year later, Junun will

make a special live appearance as closing act for our 10th Anniversary Edition.

“Instead of playing up its audacious collisions - east meets west, Israel meets Islam - these 13 songs feel more about natural chemistry and mutual understanding than grand statements…

A fine entry point into the rich mystery of Sufi music.” - Uncut Magazine Junun performs at TivoliVredenburg’s Grote Zaal on Sunday, 13 November.

FEDERICO ALBANESE CAPTURING THE FLEETING MAJESTY OF MAGIC HOUR “There is a particular moment when opposites are very close, almost touching one another. When there is still light but not quite darkness. A world between, where all things are uncertain, vague, floating into shade.”

FUTURISTIC HIP HOP/JAZZ HYBRID DIGABLE PLANETS: FINALLY REALIGNING AFTER 20+ YEARS In the 90s, Digable Planets sampled past visionaries like Art Blakey and Curtis Mayfield to create a unique hybrid of jazz and hip hop, resulting in half a million record sales and winning a Grammy Award. The NY-based trio unshackled hip hop from its repetitionbased framework on debut Reachin’ (A New Refutation of Time And Space). Then on follow-up Blowout Comb, they employed jazz instrumentation to hip hop’s modernistic inner-city vigor.

Fast-forward twenty years, and nobody came remotely close to sounding like Digable Planets, barring founder Ishmael Butler’s equally brilliant Shabazz Palaces. In a recent interview with Pitchfork, he looked back at the early years: “At the time, I wasn’t thinking about musical categories. I was just using the samples that I could get my hands on; they were from records that belonged to my moms, my pops, and

my uncles. My father was a stated jazz aficionado and he was into all the avantgarde stuff; he was a big Eric Dolphy fan.

Mom liked Motown and CTI jazz; Donald Byrd kind of stuff. That shit was fly too.”

Digable Planets perform at TivoliVredenburg’s Grote Zaal on Saturday, 12 November.

For those lucky enough to capture the gradual transition between day and night, it always instills this wondrous sense of bewilderment.

For Italian composer Federico Albanese’s second album The Blue Hour, twilight is the visual catalyst for his airy and cinematic piano-based pieces, which are graced with gentle electronic textures and icy atmospherics. Or, as Drowned In Sound simply put it: “One of the most hauntingly beautiful record you’ll ever hear.”

Federico Albanese performs at Leeuwenbergh on Saturday, 12 November.

THE DWARFS OF EAST AGOUZA

FREE SPIRITED, LATE NIGHT JAMS HAILING FROM CAIRO This trio’s instrumental explorations originated when Sam Shalabi (Land of Kush, Shalabi Effect), Maurice Louca (Alif, Bikya) and Alan Bishop (Sun City Girls, The Invisible Hands) were sharing an apartment building in Cairo’s Agouza district.

On debut LP Bes, Cairo-based trio The Dwarfs of East Agouza reimagines both Western and Eastern traditions in baffling fashion. With sounds ranging from African percussion loops and meditative krautrock to free jazz and feverish psychfolk, The Dwarfs of East Agouza create mantras that sound as if they derive from some alternate timeline, one where Can formed in the Middle East to record Monster Movie on benzodiazepines.

The Dwarfs of East Agouza perform at TivoliVredenburg’s Pandora on Saturday, 12 November.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 13

TREASURES – Food & Drinks –

SYR

BROEI

www.restaurantsyr.nl, Lange Nieuwstraat 71 Monday-Sunday, 11:30-22:00

photographer: Ernie Enkelaar

This vibrant Syrian restaurant opened its doors in June earlier this year as the result of a successful crowdfunding campaign.

Syrian refugees are given the opportunity to work together with Dutch professionals to gain work experience, learn Dutch and practice their talents in the kitchen or service. You should definitely drop by, meet the friendly staff and feel welcome to try some delicious Syrian-European dishes!

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and get lunch with a drink for €10.

LE:EN

www.broei-utrecht.com, Oosterkade 24 Monday-Sunday, 09:00-22:00

photographer: Lize Kraan

Since last year BROEI has upgraded a bit: it now has its own kitchen and tiny bakery. That means more vegetarian dishes for you to love and of course some freshly home baked bread. Take a break from the festival and unwind in BROEI’s homely atmosphere, play some board games and try some of their fresh juices.

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and get 10% off on your order.

HÉRON

www.leen-restaurant.nl, Heuveloord 140 Open every day from 11:00

PETIT RESTAURANT www.heronrestaurant.nl, Schalkwijkstraat 26-28 Tuesday-Saturday from 17:30, closed on Sunday

Hidden behind De Helling is a place where you can try some of the best Japanese, Thai, Chinese, Sri Lankan and all kinds of other Asian bites. Located in a former welding and construction warehouse, LE:EN has managed to maintain that industrial vibe. While you lounge in one of their comfortable couches they’ll serve you small dishes that you can share with your friends.

Make sure you’ll try some of their very special sakes and Asian beers as well!

Special LGW? discount: get 10% discount on your dinner when you show your festival wristband. (favorable if you reserve in advance)

Located next to our venue Leeuwenbergh is a truly hidden gem where only locally available products from local suppliers are used to prepare pure and appetizing meals. Enjoy cheese directly from the cheese monger, fish from the angler, meat from the cattle farmer and coffee from the guys at The Village. Come dine at Héron Petit Restaurant and taste the flavours of Utrecht. (If you want to be sure to have a spot, reserve at heronrestaurant.nl and mention the LGW? discount) Special LGW? discount: if you order a meal between 17.30 and 19:00 (and leave the restaurant before 19.30), you can take a ‘kitchen front row seat’ at the bar and get a main course plus a glass of wine for €20.

photographer: Desmond Gerritse

BEHIND BARS www.behindbarscocktailbar.com, Hamburgerstraat 14 Wednesday-Sunday from 17:00 Right in the middle of Utrecht there is this tiny little cocktail bar with an intimate living room feel. Nestle yourself in a Chesterfield couch and sip on a Julio’s Swizzle, Skull Puncher or a Suffering Bastard. And while you’re there, also order one of their Japanese whiskey or special rums.

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and get a Gin Basil Smash for €7.

KOFFIE LEUTE www.koffieleute.nl, Westerkade 30 Monday-Sunday, 09:00-18:00 There are loads of places to get your coffee from in Utrecht, but only a handful of good ones. Koffie Leute belongs to one of those. Since they are specialized in filter coffee, they will surprise you with coffee beans from regions all over the world. Fancy a game of Mario Kart while sipping a delicately brewed coffee? Hang out at Koffie Leute!

Special LGW? discount: Another round of Le Guess What? this year!

Guess which filter coffee (out of four) you’re drinking and get it for free.

photographer: Thomas Doet

KLEIN BERLIJN www.kleinberlijn.de, Briljantlaan 5 Monday-Sunday from 12:00 Klein Berlijn is brand new and back again! After a few months of renovation, this place is completely ready for a flux of LGW? visitors. Order a German beer, enjoy their Suppi von Mutti, (or bring your own food!) and experience the underground vibes of Berlin in this café on the outskirts of Utrecht.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 14

photographer: Joyce Bielderman

photographer: Timon Jacobs

SAOWAPA www.saowapa.nl, Nicolaasstraat 1 Wednesday-Sunday, 16:00-21:00 Are you craving some Thai food? Visit Saowapa. This little street food takeaway slash mini-restaurant has five different dishes everyday from which you can choose.

Personally prepared

by Saruttaya Piradej, especially for you.

LOCATED AROUND DE HELLING AND LEEUWENBERGH – To do –

VINTAGE ON DE OUDEGRACHT

DE BIERVERTELLER www.debierverteller.nl, Twijnstraat 47 Open every day from 11:00

If you haven’t had your overdose of vintage at festival market Le Bazarre, then take a stroll along De Oudegracht.

Here, you can find vintage clothing store Episode, antique stores, a secondhand bookstore and even a hairdresser who specializes in vintage hairstyles: Madame Pompadour. Look out for signs that say ‘Antiek’ or ‘Curiosa’. You’ll find old tableware, vintage postcards, furniture, antique mirrors, picture frames, unique paintings and maybe even some stuffed animals: all to your liking.

If you’re into special beers, De Bierverteller is your sanctuary.

This newly opened shop is for those who are not afraid to cross their beer boundaries and are open for experiencing new tastes.

What ya say about a bottle of Yeasty Boys? Come in and explore the wide variety De Bierverteller has to offer.

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and get 10% off on your purchase.

CENTRAAL MUSEUM www.centraalmuseum.nl, Agnietenstraat 1 Open Tuesday till Sunday from 11:00

Photographer: Ernst Moritz

At the Centraal Museum you can wander around and get lost between old and modern art, sculptures, photographs and furniture: you’ll encounter basically every form of art that has a connection with Utrecht. Visit the Centraal Museum and enrich yourself with a side of Utrecht you weren’t familiar with yet.

Special LGW? discount: show your festival wristband and visit the exhibition ‘How The World Occurs’

by Craigie Horsfield for free.

Photographer: Liselotte Gijzemijter

LE GUESS WHO? YEAR TEN ARTWORK You’ve probably noticed the omnipresent artwork depicted on our posters this year. The characteristic circles are designed by SUUNS’ Joe Yarmush, in collaboration with our artistic director Bob van Heur.

Joe Yarmush: “What can I say? There's much to talk about when it comes to a festival like Le Guess Who?. If you've been there before, you know. It's a barrage of amazing music and things to see, people to meet and partying to be had. There's no one moment of Le Guess Who?, it's a culmination of experiences. This artwork, that I was lucky enough to be asked to

do, is meant as an expression of what it's like to be at this festival. It's inspired

by Bob Van Heur, and what happens when he's inspired. It comes from a solid concept in his mind. It was built upon and released in stages to link up with the announcements of the lineup. It conveys the community of musicians, music fans, festival organizers and everyone who

makes events like these happen because they're involved. It represents the four curators and their respective curation. It represents the journey this festival has gone through in the last decade and how it's come around back to its roots: getting musicians to play. Simple as that. I could go on and on about Le Guess Who? but I'd rather go experience it.”

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 15

Phurpa’s mastery over the most primordial of instruments, the voice, simply needs to be witnessed to be believed. This Russian collective brings a truly metaphysical listening experience with ritual chants, based on the pre-Buddhist and Bon traditions of Tibet. These mantras are often referred to as “rgyud-skad” or Tantric voice, embellished with traditional Tibetan instrumentation such as percussion, bells, gongs and various horns.

PHURPA

RITUAL MUSIC BASED ON PRE-BUDDHIST TRADITIONS OF TIBET

Phurpa performs at TivoliVredenburg’s Ronda on Sunday, 13 November.

EMAHOY TSEGUÉMARYAM GUÈBROU

BASSEKOU KOUYATÉ

MALINESE VIRTUOSO HAILED AS THE JIMI HENDRIX OF THE ANCIENT NGONI - curated by Wilco.

After his Grammy nominated album ‘I Speak Fula’, ‘Jama Ko’ was recorded with producer Howard Bilerman (Arcade Fire, GY!BE) during Mali’s 2012 coup d’etat; Bassekou’s statement for liberalism and freedom of culture in Mali.

Following collaborations with Damon Albarn, Toumani Diabaté, Paul McCartney, African music legends Ali Farka Touré and Taj Mahal (who called him a musical genius), Bassekou’s fourth album, ‘Ba Power’, is a striking new chapter that fuses Pan-African and Western standards for an Afro-rock tour de force.

Bassekou Kouyaté & Ngoni Ba perform at TivoliVredenburg’s Grote Zaal on Thursday, 10 November

PSYCH-FOLK GOES FULL-BLOWN COSMIC ABSTRACTION

OTHERWORLDLY PIANO IMPROVISATIONS FROM ETHIOPIA, PERFORMED

BY MAYA DUNIETZ After spending three years of political imprisonment in Italy, Emahoy Tsegué-Maryam Guèbrou (1923) began studying violin in Egypt.

Sadly, a promising musical career was cut short when emperor Haile Selassie denied her from leaving Ethiopia. She spent the following decades reclusively in a monastery, sporadically recording for her own pleasure: an otherworldly form of improvisation rooted in her love for classical music.

After Selassie’s reign, and the death of her mother, she left Ethiopia for Jerusalem (where she now lives on Ethiopia Street). Here, she was discovered by Dunietz, who became the primary catalyst for TseguéMaryam’s overdue success.

Maya Dunietz performs the music of Emahoy Tsegué-Maryam Guèbrou at TivoliVredenburg’s Hertz on Saturday, 12 November, as part of the program curated by Julia Holter LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 16

Much like Tim Buckley’s later work, charismatic Chicago-based songsmith Ryley Walker infuses psychedelic and jazz influences into his elegant brand of folk music. His work encompasses a fascinating contrast between quaint, pastoral ambience and the restless energy of inner city life. That said, Walker’s new LP Golden Sings That

Have Been Sung sounds like a definitive departure from the earthbound world towards full-blown cosmic abstraction.

Ryley Walker performs at TivoliVredenburg’s Pandora on Saturday, 12 November.

RYLEY WALKER THE COMET IS COMING

AN ALL-OUT, JOYOUS SPACE FUNK EXTRAVAGANZA

Earlier this year, The Guardian welcomed the band as true heirs of cosmic jazz pioneer Sun Ra, but what did you expect from a three-piece that contributed to likewise genre-bending projects like Sons Of Kemet, Melt Yourself Down, Mulatu Astatke and indeed The Arkestra itself ? This November, a comet will hit Le Guess Who? 2016 with cosmic forces.

The Comet is Coming performs at TivoliVredenburg’s Pandora on Saturday, 12 November.

TERRIE EX TALKS THE EX FESTIVAL AT LE GUESS WHO?: “YOU HAVE TO LET THE SPARKS FLY NATURALLY.”

Interview: Jasper Willems

In the booklet of Y’Anbessaw Tezeta, the 2012 album by The Ex and late Ethiojazz legend Getatchew Mekuria, drummer Katherina Bornefeld tells this story of how Mekuria misconstrued the touring schedule from Groningen. In Ethiopia twelve o’ clock means six o’ clock, so Getatchew had been sitting and waiting in the hotel lobby for six hours. Nevertheless, he kept waiting. When The Ex finally came around, he was happy to see them.

In the two hours I’ve spent chatting with Terrie Ex – with chocolate, great coffee and a whole lot of laughs – at his Wormerveer Villa, there were many likewise stories about life in Ethiopia. Unfortunately, far too many to fit into this particular piece. But the one constant throughout it all is how connections are usually made by accident, often due to some silly error or general misunderstanding.

Twenty years ago, in 1996, Hessels and his girlfriend Emma Fischer embarked on a year long trip to Africa. “It was with that land rover over there.” Terrie points at a photograph on his wall, depicting a large motor vehicle on top of a wooden bridge that looks far too flimsy to support its weight. On the tail end of what surely was a prosperous year-long trot across the continent, Hessels and Fischer found themselves in Ethiopia “by accident” after unknowingly taking a sneak route.

They got arrested at the first military camp they encountered because their passports didn’t check out.

“Fortunately, we were quite used to stuff like that happening to us,” Terrie casually shrugs. “They searched our car, and that's when Emma showed them this book on world music. She name-dropped three Ethiopian singers, and all of a sudden, they were really impressed that these foreigners know about "their singers"! Just like that, whoa, we were cool! They gave us food, drinks, hospitality.”

A strange, funny little country indeed, Hessels must’ve thought. Well, not little. Ethiopia is, in fact, as large as France and Spain combined. The north is predominantly highlands, whereas the south is a withered hot desert land. “Because the roads and means of communication are so scarce, the local cultures have become extremely diverse and wholesome”, Hessels explains.

“In Europe, that’s incredibly hard to imagine. Emma and I visited about twenty-three countries in 1996, and most of them are quite 'broken' in a way. The colonial era has made a pretty disastrous impact in Africa. Ethiopia, however, has never been under long term colonial rule. Its cultural diversity amongst local communities, the people and the music, it all comes from this really original place. In Ethiopia, they recognize fundamental differences between people, but they don't feel inferior or deferential in any way. They feel empowered. A lot of life revolves around music and that's a beautiful thing.”

Terrie Ex has been to Ethiopia over twenty-five times now, but he marvels about it as if it’s the first. When The Ex first toured there with Han Bennink, they played a combination of own material and Ethiopian traditionals.

“Initially, we felt some of the traditional songs were remarkably close in spirit to what The Ex did. The music of the Gurage tribe from the south for instance, is sensational! It was quite an intuitive process. At one

point Kat (Bornefeld) sang this Mahmoud Ahmed ballad, which got a lot of laughs. To them, a woman from Europe singing a song sung from an inherently male perspective was hilarious! That's the great thing about it, to willfully be ingenuous and give each other a good ribbing!”

One point of emphasis Terrie makes is how The Ex weren’t trying to conjure this authentic experience as some act of prestige. “Getting it” was never part of the equation.

Instead, they fumbled about like a bunch of “clumsy and oblivious foreigners”, and – more times than not – let the hilarity ensue. “It’s not our goal to deliberately bring all these different Ethiopian factions together or anything.

You just need to be open and let those sparks fly naturally.

When you approach it like some sort of mission, they immediately sense that. That’s wrong.”

Despite the many nuanced differences in Ethiopian culture, they are naturally open-minded people. They don't think in opposites or absolutes, right down to fundamental life philosophies. One example would be musician Zerfu Demissie, who plays an ancient wood carved harp known as the Begana, which produces these weirdly sci fi-sounding humming noises.

Hessels: “On paper, Zerfu’s music couldn’t be more different from The Ex. His music is rooted in OrthodoxChristian dogma, which is played on the radio during fasting time. Amazing! His father Demissie Desta was the court-player of Haile Selassie. One time when we were on tour with him, Arnold (de Boer, ZEA) accidentally gushed a beer over him. Zerfu was fasting at the time, which meant he couldn’t consume meat or alcohol. You’d think that’s pretty strict, but he was really flexible about it! He said: “Ah, if the beer is so enthusiastic, give me one as well!” It wasn’t about the act of drinking beer, but about the joke.”

Composer/pianist Emahoy Tsegué-Maryam Guèbrou, whose work will be performed by Maya Dunietz at Le Guess Who?, also has a connection with the Selassie communist regime. Emahoy was denied by Selassie to practice her music abroad, which sparked decades of seclusion in a monastery. Once the regime fell, she left for Jerusalem, where Dunietz eventually discovered her.

That’s just one small example of the fallout.

“A lot of the musicians left. That’s why a lot of musicians from those Ethiopian seventies jazz ensembles live in Washington now,” Terrie clarifies “That’s really sad.

We once went there with Getatchew, and the entire room was filled with all these old Ethiopian musicians.

They went absolutely nuts! Getatchew stems from one generation earlier so it was special for them to see him. They don’t have as many opportunities to play in America, because they make a living working in restaurants, as cab drivers.” But then again, some of them became inspired to return to their homeland.

As Ethiopian music stores and ensembles became scattered or in shambles after the regime fall, labels like The Ex’s Terp and France-based Buda – the latter issues those fantastic Ethiopiques CDs – have been picking up the pieces, releasing material by legendary singers such as Bahru Kegne, Tlahoun Gèssèssè and the aforementioned Mahmoud Ahmed.

Elsewhere, things slowly unshackled as well. The Circus Debre Berhan began as this popular Canadian humanitarian project that combines circus entertainment and awareness of disease and human rights. “After the regime, people wanted some new kind of entertainment.

But the initiator was flagged for abuse, so the whole thing quickly collapsed. But a few circuses kept going. We ran into one in the south, and they built this entire arena from scratch… fantastic! The performers were these strong and impressive young individuals. There are about 150 of them in total.”

“The remarkable thing is, that even though there are about four or five deaf kids among them, the whole circus learns sign language to accommodate them! We toured with them in Europe, which was an amazing experience. The guy running things now, Henok, he is a very interesting fellow. He comes from a rich family, which he left behind on his own volition to become an activist. Because he is well-educated, he has perspective and a lot of connections all over Ethiopia.”

Maybe it all boils down to that combination of perspective and connectedness to make things happen. Terrie tells a story about this Ethiopian guy who bought meat at the supermarket here, tasted it, and went back to tell the butcher because the meat tastes like water. Of course, the butcher wasn’t amused. But even if you haven’t tasted “wonderful” Ethiopian food before, next time you go to the supermarket or prepare meat, an encounter like that makes you do so with a slightly different outset. It unshackles you in this inherently positive way.

Though it’s hard to put into exact words, Terrie thinks that’s why The Ex and Le Guess Who? are a good match.

That open view on music and life is very mutual, as is that virtuous desire to connect with something outside of the ol’ comfort zone. Hessels: ”Le Guess Who? isn’t bound by one single movement and neither is The Ex. Back in 1982, we played with an Iraqi-Kurd band who we met during a recording sessions. Just nice guys to have around, who make great music. Usually it comes down to something as simple as that. Never once did The Ex try to sell people on “being a punk band” or something.

Because that’s never been important.”

In its ten-year lifespan, Le Guess Who? attempted to invite The Ex and their friends over twice before. Of course, they were pretty busy and all. Suffice to say, it was worth the wait... we’re very happy to see them!

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 17

THE INTERGALACTIC JAZZ ODYSSEY OF IDRIS ACKAMOOR & THE PYRAMIDS In the early 70s, spiritual free-jazz pilgrims Idris Ackamoor & The Pyramids sprung from the tutelage of the great Cecil Taylor. Drawing from the vast musical riches of Fela Kuti and Sun Ra, the Pyramids spearhead their futuristic jazz music with a powerful mission statement: celebrating our equality from a Pan-African center of gravity. In 2007, three decades after disbanding the Pyramids, Ackamoor and his brethren picked up right where they left off without missing a single beat.

DINOSAUR JR. LET IT RIP AT LE GUESS WHO? Dinosaur Jr. is one of the first bands to successfully combine anthemic guitar outbursts and shredding guitar solos with vulnerable, melodic lyrics. They caused a shockwave in contemporary rock that’s still felt today.

While the initial concept of the band was to make "earbleeding country", they laid the foundations for grunge and influenced the likes of Nirvana, Pearl Jam, The Pixies, Pavement and Japandroids. If surviving three decades atop the indie rock foodchain amounted to one thing, it’s the increasingly tight-knit bond between J. Mascis’s Pavlovian guitar wizardry, Lou Barlow’s streamrollin’ bass slabs and Murph’s buzzsaw-like inflections.

Idris Ackamoor & The Pyramids perform at RASA on Friday, 11 November.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 18

inosaur Jr. perform at TivoliVredenburg’s Ronda on D Saturday, 12 November.

MARIO BATKOVIC: SOLO ACCORDION VIRTUOSO FROM BOSNIA, CURATED BY SAVAGES Mario Batkovic’s playing can be challenging and experimental, yet it always maintains a masterfully beautiful quality: his work instills a sense of unearthly wonder. Like Colin Stetson does with the saxophone, Batkovic avidly explores every nuance and sonic possibility of his instrument, integrating scratches and clicks into his arrangements. Geoff Barrow (Portishead, BEAK>) became an instant fan of his iconoclastic approach, slotting him on his record label Invada Records.

Mario Batkovic performs at Janskerk on Friday, 11 November.

ETHIOPIAN RESTAURANT SUNSHINE www.ethiorest.nl, Pauwstraat 11 Tuesday-Sunday, 16:00-22:00 During The Ex Festival at Le Guess Who? you’ve probably imagined yourself in the worldly realms of Ethiopia. If you want to experience more of the Ethiopian culture, you have to come and dine in Restaurant Sunshine: you’re invited to taste their traditional Ethiopian dishes (no cutlery, use your hands!) and delicious honey wine. Definitely worth a visit.

Special LGW? discount: when you show your festival wristband, you’ll get 10% off on your dinner.

Photographer: Eliass Battoui

‘T KOFFIEBOONTJE - ESPRESSOBAR www.tkoffieboontje.nl, Oudegracht 92, Open every day, 08:00-18:00 Since it’s open so early, even in the weekends, you might as well stop by ‘t Koffieboontje for your breakfast, order a shot of espresso and prepare yourself for another full day of concerts at Le Mini Who? and Le Guess Who?. This little coffee bar serves biological coffee from Bocca, is modernly furnished (hanging chair, anyone?), and will cater to your coffee needs with beans from Ethiopia, Kenya and Colombia.

Special LGW? discount: get your breakfast for €5 from as early as 08:00 to as late as 18:00, as ‘t Koffieboontje will be serving breakfast (lactose, sugar or gluten free available) to LGW? visitors all day.

Photographer: Liselotte Gijzemijter

HET GEGEVEN PAARD www.cafehetgegevenpaard.nl, Vredenburgkade 11 Thursday-Sunday, 17:00-21:00 Het Gegeven Paard is the nice restaurant/bar in TivoliVredenburg, our main venue.

They have a special menu for Le Guess Who? visitors. Just walk in and ask what’s for dinner. You will surely have a delicious meal.

Photographer: Melanie van Leeuwen

EKKO RESTAURANT www.ekko.nl/cafe, Bemuurde Weerd WZ3, Thursday-Sunday, 17:00-21:00 Dinner for a tenner. Whether you’re going for a quick bite before you go on to the next venue, or awaiting the first band at EKKO, just ten euros will get you a classic seasonal dish (with a pinch of originality and a dash of multicultural influence). Just choose veggie, fish or meat and EKKO will do the rest.

Photographer: Michael

– Food & Drinks –

TREASURES

L O C AT E D A R O U N D T I V O L I V R E D E N B U R G , EKKO AND RASA – To do –

HET KAUFHAUS www.hetkaufhaus.nl, Achter Clarenburg 32 Monday-Saturday from 10:30, Sunday from 12:00 Looking for some tiny cacti to decorate your apartment with, secondhand furniture, clothes, bags or other accessories? In Het Kaufhaus you’ll doubtlessly find something that suits you. And you’re supporting a good cause too: a part of what you’re spending will go to Symphany, an organization that supports several international sustainability projects.

Special LGW? discount: if you show your festival wristband you’ll get 10% off on your purchase!

LOUDMOUTH www.loudmouth.nl, Oudegracht 10, Open during the festival

Photographer: Julia Hendriks

Feel free to walk in Loudmouth’s office space and meet our graphic designer during the festival. As you’ll notice when you enter their office, these guys are responsible for designing not only Le Guess Who? artwork, but loads of other stuff for pop venues, festivals and publishers: take a look at their wall, which is cluttered with pamphlets, posters, album covers, book covers, stickers and all other kinds of artwork they’ve designed.

LE GUESS WHO? TREASURE GUIDE PAGE 19

“Getting some English bloke to climb up over the stage between bands at Moira and untie a Le Guess Who? question mark, then smuggling it out of the venue under our coats.

It will very soon have pride of place in our living room :)”

“Selda and all the crying people in the audience, and the drone fest at 5 in the morning. Felt like a weird SF movie”

“Entering the Tivoli building for the first time, climbing up the stairs, finding Pandora for the first time. My boyfriend and I were drunk and we felt like two hobbits taking the ring to Mt Doom. It was so funny”

“Mac DeMarco buying me and my boyfriend a beer and a whisky and referring to us as "playaaaas"

WHAT WAS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE MOMENT OF LE GUESS WHO? HERE ARE SOME OF YOUR CHOICES FROM OUR VISITOR SURVEYS OVER THE LAST YEARS.

“The kindness of the inhabitants of the beautiful city of Utrecht”

“Finally a festival that understands that there should be no distinction between genres; good music is good music, no matter if the artist comes from Benin, Iceland, Brazil or the US”

“Hugging Matt Sweeney during his cigarette break after the show”