KHEVSURETI TRAVEL GUIDE 2015

PSHAV-KHEVSURETI

TRAVEL GUIDE

TBILISI 2015

The Pshav-Khevsureti Travel Guide is the result of a collaborative effort of the Agency of Protected Areas of Georgia, Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund (CEPF) and World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and has been prepared within the framework of the project “Enhancing the Landscape and Ecological Integrity of the Greater Caucasus Corridor through Establishment of Khevsureti National Park, Georgia” WWF Caucasus wishes to thank Arabui Art House, Ecotourism Development Centre (ETDC), Georgian Art and Culture Center (GACC) for assistance in the preparation of the Pshav-Khevsureti Travel Guide.

EDITORS: Giorgi Tsintsadze, Project Coordinator Nugzar Zazanashvili, Conservation Director Tamaz Gamkrelidze, Communications Manager (WWF) Caucasus Office Address: 11, M. Aleksidze St., Tbilisi 0193 Tel: +995 (32) 2237500 office@wwfcaucasus.org panda.org/caucasus Lela Khartishvili TTG Georgia Ltd. Address: 14, S. Chiaureli St., Tbilisi 0179 Tel: +995 599 992161 info@thegeorgianonline.com CONSULTANTS: Nino Arabuli, Shota Arabuli, Mamuka Arabuli PROOF-READER: Jeffrey Marshal DESIGN AND TYPESETTING: Gega Paksashvili MAPS: David Svanadze PHOTOS: Shota Arabuli, Nino Arabuli, Berdia Arabuli, Sanata Gigauri, Irakli Gvenetadze, Giorgi Edisherashvili, Paata Vardanashvili, Ani Imedashvili, Giorgi Tsintsadze, David Goguadze, Givi Tukhashvili, Levan Tsikarishvili, Keti Sidamonidze, Ana Kavtaradze, Arabuli Art House, Aragvi Adventure Centre, Ensemble Gogochurebi, Ecotourism Development Centre, Georgian Art and Culture Center.

Biodiversity Conservation and Research Centre NACRES Old photos in the guide were obtained via the Internet. These photos may be stored in protected collections of different museums and archives.

Copyright © 2015 World Wide Fund Caucasus Office ISBN 978-9941-0-6742-6

FOREWORD Many points of interest await those who love the outdoors in Pshav-Khevsureti.

The region’s diverse ecosystem—subalpine forests, velvety meadows, rocky mountains, river gorges, relict and endemic species—is but a part of the Pshav-Khevsureti region’s appeal. In order to conserve and preserve the biodiversity and ancient beauty of the area, the Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area was established in 2013.

This guide describes the geography, history and the ethnological and cultural heritage of Pshav-Khevsureti. In addition to a general survey of the region, the guide provides a wealth of suggestions and general information for tourists, including information about travel routes, family hotels and guesthouses, as well as tourist organizations operating in the region.

We hope the guide will prove to be a reliable companion during your travels to Pshav-Khevsureti and will familiarize you with the region’s many offerings.

CONTENTS LOCATION -------------------------------------------------------------- 5

FOLK HOLIDAYS

RELIEF --------------------------------------------------------------------- 6

CUISINE

CLIMATE

HOW TO GET TO THE REGION

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HYDROGRAPHY ------------------------------------------------ 11 BIODIVERSITY ---------------------------------------------------- 13 PSHAV-KHEVSURETI PROTECTED AREA -------------------------------------------- 18 HISTORY OF PSHAV-KHEVSURETI --------------- 22 ETHNOLOGICAL HERITAGE AND FARMING -------------------------------------------------- 24 ETHNOGRAPHY AND CULTURAL HERITAGE ----------------------------------------------------------- 26 HOUSING

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LOCAL CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS ------------------------------------------------------ 30

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PSHAVI MONUMENTS OF CULTURE -------------------------- 42 PSHAVI TOURIST ROUTES ----------------------------- 44 KHEVSURETI ------------------------------------------------------- 46 POINTS OF INTEREST IN KHEVSURETI ------------------------------------------------- 48 KHEVSURETI TOURIST ROUTES ------------------ 54 USEFUL INFORMATION ---------------------------------- 65 FAMILY HOTELS/GUESTHOUSES ----------------- 70

LOCATION Pshav-Khevsureti is located in northeastern Georgia along the northern and southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus Range. Its area totals 1,600 sq. km, including Pshavi – 560 sq. km, and Khevsureti – 1050 sq. km. It is the only region located on both slopes of the Greater Caucasus.

Pirikita (Outer) Khevsureti, Arkhoti (the Asa River Valley), Guro-Shatili and Arghuni (the Arghuni River Valley) valleys are located along the northern slope.

Piraketa (Inner) Khevsureti (the Aragvi Valley of Khevsureti) is located along the southern slope. Pshavi is located to the south of Piraketa Khevsureti, in the Pshavi River Valley.

Pshav-Khevsureti borders Tusheti to the east; Chechnya and Ingushetia (located in the Russian Federation) to the north; Khevi and Mtiuleti-Gudamakari to the west; and Mtiuleti to the south.

Pshav-Khevsureti is surrounded by mountain ranges to the east and the west. The Kidegani Range, Chaukhi Massif, Gudamakari and Alevi Ranges lie to the west. Mutso, the Atsunda Range, Mount Borbalo and the Kakheti Range lie to the east. The region is characterized by a medium and high mountain landscape, and it encompasses mountain forest, subalpine, alpine sub-nival and nival zones.

According to the administrative-territorial division, Pshav-Khevsureti is within Dusheti Municipality in the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region and includes the Barisakho, Shatili, Magharoskari and Ukanapshavi Sakrebulos (municipal councils).

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RELIEF Pshav-Khevsureti is characterized by its complex topography. A large part of the region’s territory is occupied by mountain and grassland landscapes, with the rest being made up of mountain forest and glacial-nival type landscapes. Paleozoic plates and sandstones constitute many of the region’s high and inaccessible ranges.

Pirikita Khevsureti has a higher location and is surrounded by glacial ranges. The Liassic layers of slates and sands are also present in Khevsureti. This black slate of the Paleozoic Age is broken and cracked; it crumbles easily and has been used as

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a building material in Khevsureti since ancient times. The so-called “wandering blocks” from Chaukhi and Roshka (19502000 m a.s.l.) are of glacial origin. They drifted away from the glaciers found in the Chaukhi Massif (3700-3800 m a.s.l.).

The traces of old glaciers can also be seen in an area adjoining Mount Borbalo. Small amounts of marble (Karatis Tsveri), copper, antimony, rock crystal (quartz), etc. can be found within Pshav-Khevsureti.

The disconnected relief of river valleys (Arghuni, Asa, Khevsuretis and Pshavis Aragvi and their tributaries) and the valley-connecting ridges (2500-3000 m a.s.l) contribute to the landscape’s uniqueness.

Of importance among the river valleys is the main watershed (located in the Khevsureti Range), which is a part of the

Greater Caucasus watershed and includes a bow-shaped section between Chaukhi Massif and the peak of Mount Patara Borbalo. It divides Khevsureti into two parts, with its crown belt being stretched northward. Here, in addition to Chaukhi Massif and the Patara Borbalo peak, the Alps rise above 2800-3000 m a.s.l. Other important

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ranges include: Gudamakari, Chimghis Klde, Kavkasioni, Mutso, Chanchakhi, Khidotani, Archilos Klde and Atsunta.

The slopes of Khevsureti’s ridges are noted for their steepness, which is most pronounced at lower heights. These steep slopes that gradually transition into com-

Alps and passes: Kalotana Pass – 2,978 m; Arkhoti Pass – 3,172 m; Sabetsre – 2,798 m; Pkhitura Pass – 2,654 m; Mount Tanie – 3,499 m; Tsroli – 3,950 m; Anatori Pass – 2,768 m; Borbalo – 2,990 m; Karati – 2,912 m; Makhismaghali – 3,990; Datvisjvari Pass – 2,676 m; Chanchakhi Pass – 2,655 m; Mariatsminda – 3,140 m; Mount Archilo – 3,263 m; Andaki Pass – 2,887 m; Didi Borbalo – 3,294 m; Atsunti Pass – 3,431 m; Mount Tebulo – 4,493 m; Mutsostavi – 3,512 m; Mount Maisti – 4,081 m; Chaukhi Pass – 3,338 m; Juta Pass – 3,287m.

paratively even mountain crests and velvety Alpine meadows — a distinguishing feature of the peculiarity and diversity of the region’s tourist routes. The Chaukhi rock massif is a particularly interesting and impressive site to behold.

Hiking and horse trails run through the abovementioned passes, with the most popular trails being those of Arkhoti, Devisjvari, Andaki, Atsunta and Roshka.

Soil in Pshav-Khevsureti varies according to altitude. Forest, peat and mountain-meadow (which can be found between 2,000-3,500 m a.s.l) primitive soils are found here. They are mostly composed of clay slates and sandstones.

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CLIMATE The climate in Pshav-Khevsureti varies according to altitude zone. The air masses’ direction is influenced by the system of the Caucasus Mountains. Accordingly, different valleys often have different climates. The northern part of the region—Pirikita Khevsureti (Arkhoti-Shatili-Ardoti)—is colder and icier than the southern part (Piraketa Khevsureti and Pshavi). The altitude above sea level ranges between 1,800–4,500 meters and is part of Alpine zone (the average annual temperature is +5 0C). Winters are cold, icy and snowy. The temperature in January ranges between -12 and -18 0C. Summers arrive late, and fall comes early. The

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summer is cool (temperatures in July are around +10-14 0C), short and humid. The annual precipitation is ~ 1,000 mm, most of which is snow.

The climate in Pshavi and Piraketa Khevsureti is heavily influenced by the area’s mountain forest climatic zone (650-2,000 m), which is relatively cold. The average annual temperature in the lower zone is around +11 0C and +5 0C in the upper zone. Summers are warm and autumn is sunny. The annual precipitation is around 1,200 mm on average.

Bogoncharis Khevi, Tsatsa and Vareula.

Psavis Aragvi flows into the Tetrakheva in Shuapkho.

Arkhotistskali Gorge (also known as Asa Gorge) is surrounded by high mountains and glaciers, the altitude of which reach 3,000-4,000 m a.s.l. Waters flowing down from these Alps run through the Arkhoti Gorge. The Arkhori riverhead consists of the Tsirtslovani and Chimgha waters flowing down from the Caucasus; it flows northward from the village of Akhieli, and, in passing, feeds from the waters of Kalotana, Tania, Bisni, Tergha and Tateli. From Khieli (25 km from Amghi), it flows into the Ingushetia River (in the Russian Federation); the Arkhoti and Ingushetia borders are also nearby.

Arghunis tskali springs from Mount Datvisjvari. Its tributaries are Tsubrovanistskali and Gurostskali. The Arghunistkali flows

HYDROGRAPHY RIVERS Aragvi is the main river in Piraketa Khevsureti; its tributaries are: Okherkhevistskali, Chakhmatistskali, Buchukurtistskali, Likokistskali, Datvisistskali and Akushos Khevebi. The Pshavis Aragvi flows into the Khevsuretis Aragvi near the village of Matsmo in a place called Ortskali. From Ortskali (1,154 m a.s.l), the Pshav-Khevsureti Aragvi flows towards the Zhinvali Reservoir; there, the Mtiuleti Aragvi joins it and then flows into the Mtkvari River near Mtskheta.

Pshavis Aragvi starts in the Borbalo (3,135m a.s.l) and Botana mountains. Its tributaries are: Botanastskali, Asiskhevi,

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northward, towards Chechnya; it is joined

by Shatili’s Khevistskali and Mitkhulistskali.

The Ardotistskali River riverhead is created by the waters flowing down from the Andaki and Archilo mountain peaks. Its tributaries are Angelozatskali and Chanchakistskali. The rivers of Arghuni and Ardoti converge near the village of Anatorti.

Thereafter the river flows to Chechnya.

Mineral waters in Khevsureti are known as vedza. They include: Likokis Vedza, Gudanis Tskaro, Nadirkhevis Vedza, Khakhmatis Vedza and Ghulis Vedza. Among these acidic waters, alkaline salt springs predominate.

LAKES Abudelauri Lake(s) – a glacial (moraine) lake composed of two wonderful, alpine-zone lakes: the Lurji (blue) and Tetri (white) lakes. Abudelauri Lake is located at the riverhead of Abudelauri, which is a tributary of the Roshkistskali. The lake

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is situated at 2,812 m a.s.l; the water surface is 0.035 km²; it is fed by snow and rain waters and is an open lake, which means that water flows in and out of the lake. The lake freezes in winter; it is particularly picturesque in the early spring and summer, and several fish dwell within the lake.

Tanies Lake – a karst lake located in Pirikita Khevsureti on the northern slope of the Caucasus Range is situated at 2,232 m a.s.l; the water surface is 0.033 km². It is fed by snow, rain and ground waters. No fish live in the lake.

BIODIVERSITY The region’s biodiversity is influenced by its location at the junction of the Central and Eastern Caucasus. The flora of Pshav-Khevsureti includes several rare varieties. Over 20 varieties of flora are included in the Red List of Georgia, which is an endangered species list. There are also some endemic flora varieties that can only be found in the Caucasus.

PSHAV-KHEVSURETI FLORA The level of endemism (the proportional number of endemic species) is particularly high among plant species. Pshav-Khevsureti flora comprise 212 Caucasian endemic species, which means that 8 out of 17 genera spread throughout the Caucasus are found here; accordingly, 34.4 % of the plant species found in Pshav-Khevsureti are Caucasian endemics.

In the middle belt of the region’s mountains (the Aragvi River basin gorge), beech

and oak-hornbeam forests prevail; in the sub-Alpine forest zone, there are Alpine shrubs and subalpine high grasses. The Alpine zone is composed of alpine meadows. Petrophylic flora can be found in the subnival zone. All four zones are present in the Asa and Arghuni gorges (Pirikita Khevsureti). The Pshav-Khevsureti forests are characterized by their alder forests (Alnus barbata, A. incana) and willow species (Salix excelsa, S.alba). In separate areas, the black poplar (Populus nigra) and the sessile oak (Quercus petraea subsp.iberica) can be found. The optimal altitude of the range is 1000 m a.s.l. In the oak-forest formation, oak-hornbeam, oak-azalea, oak-nut wood and oak-cornel forests, which also have oak-spear grass and oak-fescue, are present. Higher up, at 1500-1800 m a.s.l, the forests give way to the high-mountain oak (Quercus macranthera). The forests in Pshav-Khevsureti are rather thin and sparse, and are home to the yellow azalea (Rhododendron leteum) and wild fruits—Caucasian pear, hawthorn and medlar. On the northern slope, the oriental beech (Fagus orientalis) is interspersed with the common hornbeam (Carpinus betulus, C. cauca-

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sicus), the field maple (Acer campestre, A. laetum), the European ash (Fraxinus excelsior), the elm (Ulmus tremula), and the aspen (Populus tremula). Higher still, the silver birch (Betula pendula) and thehigh-mountain oak (Quercus macrathera) grow. The common hazel (Corylus avellana), the guelder-rose (Viburnum opulus), dog-rose (Rosa canina), and other shrubs also grow in the area.

Mid-altitude mountain forests (1,5001,700 m) are composed of beech and oak-forests, which slowly give way to subalpine forests. The locality is characterized by birch wood (Betula litwinowii).

The North Caucasus endemic species, the Caucasian birch (Betula raddeana), prevails in Pirikita Khevsureti and is commonly mixed with the rowan (Sorbus aucuparia, S. caucasigena), goat willow (Salix caprea), and others. In Pirikita Khevsureti, of particular importance is the share of Caucasian pine (Pinus sosnowskyi). The birch wood zone in some places goes up to 2500 m a.s.l. Rhododendron, yellow azalea, willow, and other tree varieties grow alongside the birch trees.

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Over 200 varieties of rare grasses are found in the subalpine grasslands that have no analogs elsewhere in Georgia.

In the subalpine zones, the snow rose/ alpine tea (Rhododendron caucasicum) and the bilberry (Vaccinium myrtilus, vitis idaea) species predominate. It is noteworthy that the rhododendron always grows a the northern slope and never on the southern one. In the subalpine zone, the rock currant and Alpine currant (Ribes biebersteini, R. alpinum), the wayfarer or wayfaring tree (Viburnum lantana), the Caucasian honeysuckle (Lonicera caucasica), the gooseberry (Grossularia reclinata) predominate. The rhododendron is

particularly common in the Arghuni and Asa subalpine and Alpine zones.

The cow-parsnip (Heracleum sosnowksyi) is a commonly found plant in the region. It is a rather dangerous plant—when put in contact with bare skin, it can cause rashes, scarring, and horrible blisters. Watch out!

Alpine meadows (‘Alpine spots’) can be found in Pirikita Khevsureti at elevations ranging from 2900–3300 m a.s.l. The Alpine spots have several varieties of plants (Taraxacum confusum, Carum caucasicum, Poa alpine, Carex micropodioides, Briza marcowiczi, Luzula sudetica, Platago saxatilis, and Minuartia oreina). There are Alpine meadows on Mt. Arkhoti, the Guro-Giorgitsminda gorges, Khone and Atsunta.

Relict and endemic species – the oldest, indigenous and unique plant species grow throughout Pshav-Khevsureti, including: the yew grove, the snow rose/Alpine tea (Rhododendron caucasicum), the Litvinov’s and Radde’s birches (Betuna litwinowi, B.raddeana) and blue couch grass/ astragalus (Astracanta denudata, Astragalus denudatus). The Armenian rowan (Sorbus hajestana), which until recently was considered to be endemic to Armenia, can be found in the outskirts of Shatili and Tsukio. Half of Pshav-Khevsureti’s flora consists of plants unique to Georgia and the Caucasus.

tle (Galepsis nana). Caucasus endemics are widespread throughout the region.

In particular, there are several varieties in the areas running along the Roshka–Arkhoti and Shatili–Mighmakhevi–Atsunta tourist routes.

Medicinal and industrial plants The practice of medicine in Pshav-Khevsureti has a long history. Because of its remoteness from the lowland, highlanders had to seek out local therapeutic agents.

As such, locals used several plants that grew in the area for medicinal purposes.

Plants with medicinal properties prevail in the Andaki River Valley. Plants rich in different vitamins include the common hop (Humulus lupulus) and the common sea-buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides).

In the subalpine and Alpine zone, Alpine tea, dog-roses, raspberries, crowberries and bilberries are widely found. The common ragwort (Senecio platypyllus), from which a cordial is prepared, grows on Roshka rocks. In Pirikita Khevsureti, giant hogweed/angelica (Angelica tatianae) grows, which is a plant used to treat gastrointestinal disorders.

Local endemics include the Pshavi wood fennel (Peucedanum pschavicum), variegated buttercups (Ficaria varia), Shatilian anise (Pimpinella schatilensis), Khevsurian onion (Allium chevsuricum), Ochiauri onion (Allium ochiauries), and hemp net-

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PSHAV-KHEVSURETI FAUNA The voice of the Caucasian snow cock (Tetraogallus caucasicus) is frequently heard in the region. It is encountered on the highest passes and peaks of the Greater Caucasus, although it is rarely seen by human eyes. The Caucasian snow cock’s habitat is high up in the mountains.

Like the East Caucasian tur, it also winters at the altitude of 3000 m.a.s.l. land comes down only in April–May. The region is characterized by its diversity of mammals, especially notable being a community of ungulate animals. The East Caucasian tur (Capra cylindricornis), particularly large-horned he-turs that graze in herds at the bottom of inaccessible mountain peaks, are the real beauties of the Greater Caucasus.

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They are mostly found in Pirikita Khevsureti. A small population of the bezoar/ wild goat (Capra aegagrus) was recently sighted in Pshav-Khevsureti (see Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area, p.18).

The animals encountered in Pshav-Khevsureti include: chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra), the population of which dwell in the environs of Mt. Borbalo among the subalpine forest and slopes where rhododendron is widespread; the European roe deer (Capreolus capreolus), the wild boar (Sus scrofa) and the red deer (Cervus elaphus) are also found here, although there have only been a few sightings over the past few decades.

Pshav-Khevsureti is also noted for its predators. The brown bear (Ursus arctos), the wolf (Canis lupus) and the lynx (Lynx lynx) live in the region. There have been

a few reported leopard (Panthera pardus) sightings as well. The following small Caucasian mammal endemics are notable: the Dagestan pine vole (Microtus (Terricola) daghestanicus), the Caucasian snow vole (Chionomis gud), the Radde’s shrew (Sorex raddei) and the Caucasian pygmy shrew (Sorex volnuchini).

According to available data, 83 species of birds dwell in the region. Out of the Caucasus endemics, another noteworthy bird is the Caucasian grouse (Tetrao mlokosiewiczi). 5 bird species on the Georgian Red List can be found in Pshav-Khevsureti, one of which (the cinereous vulture, Aegypius monachus) is endangered worldwide and is included in the IUCN’s Red List.

Pshav-Khevsureti is rich in large-size bird species. In addition to the black vulture, the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus) and the griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), the common kestrel Falco tinnunculus), the northern goshawk (Accipiter gentilis), the Eurasian sparrow hawk (Accipiter nisus), the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) and other bird species can be found in the region. Also worth mentioning are the mountain chiffchaff or eastern chiffchaff (Phylloscopus lorenzii), the green warbler (Phylloscopus nitidus) and the red-fronted serin (Serinus pusillus).

There are several reptiles in the region.

The Montpellier snake (Malpolon monspessulanus), the Caucasian viper (Vipera kaznakovi), the sand lizard (Lacerta agilis), the spiny-tailed lizard (Lacerta rudis), the grass snake (Natrix natrix), and other reptiles dwell here.

Pshav-Khevsureti is also home to several types of butterfly. The rare species, the Apollo butterfly (Parnassius apollo), the large copper (Lycaena dispar), the Large Blue (Maculinea arion), also the rare Caucasus endemic—the high-altitude butterfly (Parnassius nordmanni)—have been sighted and registered in the region.

There are 9 species of insect found in Pshav-Khevsureti on the Red List.

Of interest for birdwatchers are the Great Rosefinch and the Guldenstadts Redstart, the beautiful wall creeper, the common cuckoo (Cuculus canorus), the horned lark (Eremophilia alpestris), the blackbird and swallow species, the water pipit (Anthus spinoletta), the grey wagtail (Motacilla cinerea), the chaffinch (Fringilta coelebs), and many others.

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PSHAVKHEVSURETI PROTECTED AREA Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area was established in 2014 (by the Law of Georgia on the Establishment and Management of Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Areas, 16 April 2014) and encompasses Pshav-Khevsureti National Park, Roshka Natural Monument and Asa Managed Nature Reserve.

It is possible to access Tusheti and Kazbegi Protected Areas (PAs) via footpaths. These treks are highly popular routes among eco tourists and nature lovers in general.

The total size of Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area is 80,012 ha (including the national park—75,936 ha, Roshka Natural Monument—133 ha, and the Asa Managed Nature Reserve—3,943 ha). Mountain landscapes and diverse and pristine ecosystems contribute to the protected area unique beauty.

The “Support Zone” includes settlements within and adjoining the national park: Anatori, Mutso, Kistani, Lebaiskari, Kalotana, Amgha, Chimgha, Andaki, Kino, Bindaurta, Archilo, Chechketi, Shatili, Ardoti (villages within the park), Ukana Pshavi (Chalakhevi), Ukana Pshavi (Vakis-Sopeli), Orbeulta, Khorieli, Khoshara, Akneli, Misakhi, Khitale, Botsaligo, Chkhuba, Ukana Pshavi (Elia-Gza), Ukankhadu, Kartsaulta, Ache, Khakhmati, Biso, Atabe, Tsinkhadu (Zeistecho), Tsnkhadu,Ustamalae, Keo, Barisakho, Bochkvilo, and Chalisopeli.

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The protected area, like the Pshav-Khevsureti region as a whole, is characterized by its complex topography. Here, the deep erosive riverbeds of the rivers Arghuni, Asa, Khebsuretis Aragvi and their numerous tributaries divide the mountain ranges and the peaks rising to their crowns. The main Greater Caucasus watershed and a section of side ridges (between Chaukhi Massif and Mt. Patara Borvalo) run along the protected area.

Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area is one of the richest regions in terms of high endemism of plant species. Pshav-Khevsureti flora includes 212 species endemic to the Caucasus, 35.4 % of the plant species found in the region are the Caucasus endemics. Out of 17 Caucasus endemic genera, 7 are found here.

PSHAV-KHEVSURETI NATIONAL PARK AND ITS ZONES With the aim to promote the conservation of the East Caucasian tur and wild goat populations that live in mostly undisturbed habitats in the Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area, a strict nature protection zone/area has been established. The Strictly Protected Area’s (SPA) purpose is to concurrently ensure the conservation of other species inhabiting the area and to protect the alpine and subnival flora complexes distinguished by their high endemism.

The “Atsunta section” (Atsunta Range and Mt. Tebulo vicinities) and a part of Mount Borbalo are a continuation of the East Caucasian tur habitat of Tusheti Protected Area in Khevsureti. The SPA of the National Park includes the Arkhoti Caucasian

tur habitats. In particular, it covers the tur habitats of the Tergha, Tanie, Chimgha and Bisna valleys. The SPA in Arkhoti creates, together with the tur habitats in the Russian Federation, an important sanctuary for the East Caucasian tur populations.

terials, parts of plants, seeds and bulbs, invertebrates and small-size verterbrates. The collection of biological data and specimens for scientific purposes is strictly controlled and requires the administration’s consent.

The SPA is also a sanctuary for a small population of wild goats that reside in the rocky forest sections facing Anatori and Arditi village. After the locals began a self-imposed restriction on hunting, the number of the wild goats in Khevsureti has steadily increased. In Georgia, the wild goat population has been preserved in Tusheti and Khevsureti.

In Pshav-Khevsureti National Park, taking into account the social-economic interests of the local population, a Traditional Use Area has been established, where traditional economic activities are allowed, for example: mowing, grazing, firewood collection. Tilling and sowing are banned, however.

The conduct of non-manipulative research for scientific and educational identification purposes is allowed in the SPA of the Park. It is permissible to remove a small number of herbarium and collection ma-

Research and educational activity, use of eco-tourism infrastructure, walking and horse riding, also the use of motor vehicles, sport and amateur fishing in coordination with the administration is possible for Traditional Use Area visitors.

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In the national park, a Visitor’s Area has been established for recreational, eco-touristic, and educational purposes.

In the near future, the infrastructure for tourist protection, control and safety will be implemented within the Administration Area.

Recreational activities including the use of all-terrain vehicles, horses, and educational and research activities are allowed in the Visitor’s Area.

ROSHKA NATURAL MONUMENT Roshka Natural Monument covers Roshkistskali River Valley, from the village of Roshka to the Greater Caucasus. The Greater Caucasus slopes and a great number of erratic (‘wandering’) blocks create spectacular landscapes. Two huge diabase (also known as dolerite) blocks are among the greatest erratic blocks in the world. There are comparatively smaller

but impressive blocks scattered in large numbers throughout the higher grounds of the valley and near the village of Roshka.

At Roshka Natural Monument, visitors may engage in non-manipulative research and educational activities.

ASA MANAGED NATURE RESERVE Asa Managed Nature Reserve encompasses the left slope of the Asa River Gorge and the river heads of the gorges of some of its tributaries.

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Asa Managed Nature Reserve’s area encompasses pristine pine forestlands and marls, and is a permanent dwelling for brown bears, East Caucasian turs, and lynxes—animal species which are included in the Red List of Georgia.

In Asa Managed Nature Reserve, visitors may travel by foot or on horseback for educational and recreational purposes in specially designated places; take photographs and shoot films as well as visually observe the biodiversity objects without disturbing the environment; and stay overnight in specially designated places and shelters.

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HISTORY OF PSHAVKHEVSURETI According to archeological records, present Pshav-Khevsureti was previously inhabited by man as early as the prehistoric age.

Khevsureti and Pshavi are mentioned in Georgian historical sources together as “Phkhovi”, and the Khevsurs and Pshav proper as “Phkhovelebi” (Pkhovis). Today, this name is preserved in the village “Shuapkho” (Pshavi).

The Pkhovi people are first mentioned in The Conversion of Kartli, a narrative work chonicling the Kingdom of Iberia's conversion to Christianity in 326 AD. According

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to chronicles, Pkhovi was settled in the 4th century; the pagan Pkhovis refused to adopt Christianity and part of them migrated to Tusheti and areas beyond the Greater Caucasus. The entire territory of Pshavi was part of Kvetari saeristavo (principality), then of Ertso-Tianeti samouravo (province). In general, Georgian highlander communities enjoyed a degree of autonomy (there was no serfdom); they submitted themselves only to the monarch.

The highlander communities were administered by Ksani and Aragvi eristavis (governors). They (the highlanders) defended the northern border of the kingdom and detached forces because they were regarded as exceptional warriors. Local communities were ruled by khevisberis (elders). According to community traditions and when their freedom was endangered by the royal government, they were ready for apostasy and rebellion.

The highland region of Aragvi Gorge was ruled by khevisberis. The patriarchal traditions and customs were practiced in the 20th century. Khevsurs used to gather people for military meetings; their duties were to maintain local traditions, follow tribal laws and administer justice, and assemble troops in case of emergency. They submitted to the monarch, although without disruption of the tribal unity.

in the 19th century. The residents of Shatili took up arms against the Shamil; they fortified fortresses, defended against the troops of the Leks (Ingush) and were often victorious.

From a strategic and military standpoint, the region was a stronghold that safeguarded the country from the north and east, and defended the lowland from attacks of foraying troops.

In the last years of Queen Tamar’s rule during the 12th century, the Pkhovis rebelled against the royal government, but after a three-year struggle, they resolved their issues and swore allegiance to the crown. In the 15th century when a united Georgia began to break apart into smaller kingdoms and provinces, Pshav-Khevsureti and Tusheti gave up the Kingdom of Kakheti, but in the 16th century again became the kingdom’s ally.

Starting in the 1950s, people began migrating from the highlands to the lowlands. In order to develop land and employ the highland population, a “planned resettlement” was implemented by the Soviet government, which, unfortunately, resulted in the deterioration, desertion, and disappearance of settlements, villages, traditions and local economic customs. The region is still recovering from the “planned resettlement”. Pshav-Khevsureti has yet to fully repopulate itself.

Pshav-Khevsurs played an active role in fighting against the northern Caucasians

Today, the Pshav-Khevsureti Administration operates within the Dusheti region.

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ETHNOLOGICAL HERITAGE AND FARMING

Of particular interest is the Khevsurian cow – small in body, hardy and easily fed in winter, it is noted for the high fat content of its milk and is well adapted to the difficult mountain conditions and climate.

Unlike cuttle relatively fewer sheep were raised in the region. The remote distance of winter pastures and dangerous transportation routes made sheep a less popular animal to raise.

In general, the typical Khevsurian

deck-roof house was designed so as to ensure comfortable housing for both humans and cattle. The ground floor (tvali) housed the family and cattle.

The upper floor, the so-called “cherkho”, was the men’s residence. The third floor, a threshing floor, was used to thresh and store grain. Cowsheds and cattle pens can still be found on summer pastures.

For ages the Pshav-Khevsureti population has bred cattle due to the vast the grasslands and pastures at their disposal. The main products are meat, cheese, refined butter, and other dairy and meat products. Residents breed numerous types of cows.

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Beekeeping is also prevalent in the region.

In lower mountain villages (Piraketa Khevsurerti and Pshavi), the population was usually grew vegetables and fished (trout in particular); however, such farming could hardly provide for a whole family.

Cottage industry, which includes wool processing (knitting socks, making coverlets, etc.); smithery; and silver working among other activities, were developed practices in Pshav-Khevsureti. Today, some families still engage in such activities (fancy-work, knitting, stone dressing and woodworking); the hand-made goods of local craftsmen are noted for their excellence and originality.

possibility of growing enough wheat, barley and rye to satisfy the daily needs of locals. Therefore, economic contact with the lowland is of vital importance for the villages of Khevsureti. Bartering practices are still very common. Residents exchange their locally made dairy products in exchange for grains, salt, wine and other products.

In general, the region lacks sufficient natural resources of commercial importance.

The region also has poor croplands. The region's mountain setting excludes the

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ETHNOGRAPHY AND CULTURAL HERITAGE

The ethno-cultural heritage of Pshav-Khevsureti is unique. Fortress-villages in the region (Lebasikari, Shatili, Mutso, etc.) are impressive due to their historical cross-icons and excellent mythological specimens. The local way of life

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and customs are also interesting. The region is famous for its folk poetry and traditions. It gave birth to the creation of the Lay of the of the Huntsman and the Tiger. The settlement of Mindia of Khogai (the hero of Khevsur folklore) is also in Pshav-Khevsureti. The Khevsur way of life was a source of inspiration for the wellknown and beloved Georgian writer and poet Vazha-Pshavela.

There are over 200 items of material and cultural heritage, including fortress towers, churches, and sanctuaries. As a matter of fact, the cross-sanctuaries and churches date back to the prehistoric age, although most of them have been de-

stroyed and are only partially preserved.

These ancient ruins give one an idea of the history and the material and spiritual culture of the region.

Ages: Guro Fortress; Lebaiskari Fortress; the Kistani fortifications; Kachu Fortress; the Shatili, Mutso and Ardoti stone fortifications; and the Khakhabo fortresses.

Of interest are the natural phenomena (rocks, trees, springs, etc.), which are used as shrines and are regarded as sacred places. These shrines have made it possible to preserve forests and unique ecosystems within a rather vast territory of highlands. Locals banned hunting in sacred groves, felling trees and even mowing grass was banned. The understanding and appreciation for nature has been passed on from generation to generation of the Khevsur people and is still a part of their identity to this day.

Anatori and Mutso vaults are particularly interesting due to their location, architectural content and function. These buildings also date back to the Middle Ages.

Visitors can see many of these cultural and historical monuments along several travel routes.

Objects of material culture were generally of military and defensive importance.

Such buildings were erected along the northern border. Notable are the architectural masterpieces of the late Middle

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HOUSING

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PSHAV HOUSE Currently, houses in Pshavi are not of one architecturalstyle. Urban-style houses are most common, especially within the Magharoskari community sakrebulo. A traditional Pshav house is two-story dry stone structure. The first floor was a cowshed/stable, while the second was a darbazi – a “hall like” wide room. It has an opening for smoke - sakomi in the ceiling,

maternity hut would be placed in the corner of the cowshed.

More modern houses are built from stone. Cowsheds and haylofts are usually separate structures.

KHEVSUR HOUSE Built on mountain heights in clustered Khevsur villages, a Khevsur home would host several families/households. In terms of their design and structure, Khevsur fortresses differ in Pirikita Khevsureti (Shatil-Arkhoti) and Piraketa Khevsureti (Aragvi gorge). The towers of Pirikita Khevsureti have a stepwise-cylindrical roof and have a Tush tower style, while those of Piraketa Khevsureti have a Mtiuluri style.

Special compact houses for humans and cattle were built in three-story stone-built terraced structures. The ground floor’s roofing would serve as a yard for the upper floor, while the third floor would house a threshing floor and utility rooms.

The ground floor, where the fireplace (kera) would usually be located, is called a shinasi, while the upper floor, where men used to sleep and hay and products in woven baskets were stored, is known as a cherkho.

which sometimes is simply rectangular, however in some cases it has an angled wooden beam dome called amoktseuli that is supported by a central wooden column called a dedabodzi. The dedabodzi is often adorned with wood-carved ornaments and astral symbols that is an ancient type of eastern Georgian dwelling.

Earlier, some houses also had a shed to store hay and grain. In some houses, a

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LOCAL CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS LOCAL VERNACULAR AND FOLK POETRY The rich diverse folk poetry of Pshavi and Khevsureti truly captures and presents their simple and beautiful way of life. The Pshavs are good at expressing their sorrows and spiritual emotions in verse. The birth of a Khevsur was marked in verse and these verses were used to commemorate individuals after passed away. Pshav poetry and Pshav kapia (versification) hold a special place in local folk oral story-telling tradition. Kapia is a tradition popular in Pshavi, which is a form of impromptu-conversational versification between two rival individuals or groups. Kapia

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was practiced during festivals, weddings, while herding cattle, and when travelling.

Therefore, it is said in the highlands: “The Khevsur takes pride in his sharp blade, the Pshav of his equally sharp tongue”. The Pshav vernacular tradition of poetry has been eternalized by Vazha-Pshavela, in whose works the local traditions and century-old folk wisdom are influential elements of the poet’s individualism: his rich imagination, rhythmic thinking and ideals common to all mankind.

Pshav and Khevsur songs are monotonic and sad. The three-stringed mandolin-like instrument, the panduri¸ is a popular item in every household.

RELIGION Pagan beliefs are still strongly present in the rituals and traditions of highlanders. Their shrine is called a khati (which is a literary icon). The highlanders associate it with God’s children, who once were corporeal creatures (humans). After their demise, they became angelic beings.

As humans, they lived in mountains (e.g. such heroes as Kopala, Lakhsari, Pirkushi) and fought against human enemies—the mythical evil forces: Devs. Due to their deeds they were transformed into holy spirits. Deities were grouped according to a hierarchic ladder and their function.

Each deity had its own sphere of influence, for which only it was responsible.

Every deity had a servant who fulfilled its master’s orders and will. Khevsurs frequently called upon deities to assist them in their everyday endeavors.

Shrine locations (sabrdzanisi) are protected in the region and the local population holds shrine festivals (khatoba) to this

very day. The location of a shrine and its structures represent a sacred and inviolable place. Shrines are frequantly surrounded by oak or ash trees. The most sacred space place where the shrine resides (nish-sabrdzanisi), which is a rectangular structure built of dry slabs of stone. The treasury of the shrine (kvrivi) also stands nearby, which only servants of the shrine are allowed to access. The sacred grove (shrine forest) is also inviolable. A belfry (sazare) stands near the grove, which is a four-pillar structure with several bells hanging from it. Old sazares have slabstone pyramidal roofing, while relatively newer ones often have a cross-shaped ending.

Every shrine ensemble has its own area for beer brewing called a salude, which is a log earth-room containing large copper pots to boil wort along with other relevant tools: presses, jars, plates, etc.

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Separate buildings like sabero—a place where the local khevisberi stays and sajare—a spot where the community stayed overnight during festivals is also an inseparable part of the shrine ensemble.

In addition to common Pshav shrines (Lasharis Jvari, Sakvirao, Tamar-Ghele, Damasturi), every community has its own tribal village shrine (Adgilis Deda). There are many sanctuaries: Lakhsiri, Shuapkhoshi (Kist community), Kopala in Udzilauri (a Pshav community); Mtavarangelozi (archangel) in Tsburta and Matura; and Pirkushi in Akhadi. There are also many others.

The most venerated of Khevsureti shrines were called Gudanis Jvari. These particular shrines had God-granted power and a lakhti (belt) to exterminate devils and Devs. Other shrines called Pirimze functioned to address issues related to the heavens and clouds. There were shrines dedicated to Khakhmatis Jvari, the pa-

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troness of women; Anatoris Jvari, the protector of game (wild goats, deer, chamois and other animals); and many others.

One of the largest and most popular folk festivals in Khevsureti is Atengenoba. It is held during the second half of July, when not only locals but also those who migrated to the lowland come back to the mountains to celebrate.

The legend about Lasharis Jvari says that in the 13th century, during the last years of Queen Tamar’s reign, Pkhovs still followed their pagan religion and venerated the Angel of the Oak. According to the legend, this oak was standing on the top of a dry hill and was the main shrine of the local community. Queen Tamar ordered that a church be built over the shrine and donated a silver cross in the name of her son, Lasha Giorgi, to the church.

Since then the hill has been known as Lasharis Jvari.

FUNERARY AND MOURNING RITES For ages, funerary and mourning rites were given much importance in Pshav-Khevsureti. One of the most pronounced signs of respect towards the deceased was loud mourning. It was not only the expression of sorrow, but also a sign of praise to the deceased. The commemorative days of deceased ancestors were holidays. Special horse races and horse rituals dedicated to the soul of the deceased person were held in Khevsureti.

The tradition of hospitality, a general characteristic of Georgian culture, is especially vivid in the traditions of highlanders.

According to local tradition, the guest— even a deadly enemy—is sent by God and serving the guest is the primary responsibility of the host. The particular Khevsur tradition of hospitality is the main subject of Vazha-Pshavela’s famous poem Guest and Host.

The ritual of “eating silver” was a widespread practice for marking a special bond between friends. Friends would trim silver into a beer mug and after receiving a blessing from the khevisberi, they would drink from the mug, after which they became sworn brothers and committed themselves to being side-by-side in both joy and sorrow.

THE PSHAV TSATSLOBA AND KHEVSUR STSORPROBA The Pshav tsatsloba and Khevsur stsorproba is a unique tradition that was practiced until the 20th century.

It established premarital friendship relationships between young women and men. If a young woman and man liked each other, the young man would propose to become her sworn brother; should the woman agree, the romantic relationship of stsorproba (tsatsloba in Pshavi) would commence between them. True, they could lie together, but sexual intercourse between them was forbidden and they would content themselves with petting only. A dagger would be placed between them. It was a symbol of a boundary that was not to be overstepped. After marriage, the woman was not allowed to lie with her sworn brother; as for the man, he could continue the relationship of stsorproba with an unmarried swornsister. Stsorproba and tsatsloba was practiced between young men and women of one community; it was also allowed between relatives. At first, the relationship between the sworn brother and sister found its expression in visits and gift-giving. The sworn-sister would knit and embroider for her sworn-brother a short robe, breeches, a tobacco pouch, etc., while the man would present his sworn-sister with beads, buttons and pins, silver decorations, etc. The origin of stsorproba is veiled in obscurity; however this tradition can be regarded as evidence of the morals of the locals and the chivalrous attitude toward women.

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groom and bride needed to separate for a week, after which the bride would return to her parents’ home and stay there for a year. This process was also a means of helping the couple to get to know one another better, and to build honesty and faithfulness. Afterwards, they would be able to truly begin their marital relationship.

UPBRINGING OF CHILDREN Infants in Pshav-Khevsureti traditionally slept in a cradle. The cradle resembles a wooden box that is low to the ground and covered with hay in the bottom. The infant’s baptised name used to be chosen according to the vestry calendar. Alternatively, a traditional name was used.

The upbringing of children—particularly of boys—was more so a father’s duty. In Khevsureti, boys used to carry daggers in their childhood. Between the ages of

MATCHMAKING, WEDDING AND WEDLOCK The cradle-wedding tradition has long been preserved in Pshav-Khevsureti. A similar tradition was followed throughout the Caucasus and different regions of Georgia. A family would choose another family and establish a relationship with them; the uncle of the child (boy) lying in the cradle would take a “sign”, a symbolic present (usually a silver coin), and, together with the parents of the future daughter-in-law, hang the gift on the cradle. He would also bring araki (vodka), kada-puri (sweet bread) and the fate of the future newly weds would be blessed. The ritual would be repeated every new year until the wedding. During the wedding, the

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According to local legend, the snake would live on top of the house in which the family members lived and dined.

In spring, when the cuckoos start to sing, people would try to avoid hearing the cuckoo’s voice in the morning on an empty stomach, lest they grow weak in the summer. As such, in the morning, if a person saw the cuckoo on a tree, s/he would take a bite and say, ‘Cuckoo, I beat you”.

10–12, they were allowed to freely use their daggers. Fathers raised their sons surrounded by adults, and trained them to converse and taught them customary traditions.

Mitslikona’s burial. There are fleecy centipade caterpillar called mitslikona in Pshav-Khevsureti. To see one is an ill omen. If anyone accidentally came across one’s she/he would need to bury it alive and wail the following: “Mitslikona, mitslikona, to the earth you’ve been committed. Till you arise and get over nine hills, let my family and parents’ house live and thrive; mitslikona passed away, ililme and shililme”.

KHEVSUR AKIMNI/MEDICINE Especially renowned were the Khevsur akimni, who were witch doctors that could perform the most complicated operations, including trepanation of the skull. The local akimni kept their medical art confidential, handing it down to future generations. Natural therapeutic agents (honey, beeswax, plants and different parts on animal bodies, urine, stones, etc.) were used in their treatments. As an anesthetic, the doctors would used a special bitter vodka called tsintsarakali.

LEGENDS AND STORIES Pshavi residents believed in the existence of apudzis gveli (a home guardian snake) that was constantly around the house.

The snake was often seen but never killed.

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to whether the woman was married or was recently widowed. Samkhedroni, a male’s attire, had colorful embroidery with crosses and astral symbols. The outfit was traditionally accompanied by chain armor, and a sword, shield, and helmet.

An indispensable part of the outfit was the knitted britches (pachichebi) and bast shoes (tatebi) with leather soles.

LOCAL HANDICRAFTS AND CLOTHES Handcraftsmanship is a long-lasting tradition in the remote mountainous villages of Pshav-Khevsureti. Mastering fancywork was the duty of highlander women. Women were trained in wool processing and dying from their childhood. Highlander women used to color fabrics using natural dyes, which they would sew into clothing and other household items.

Clothes in Pshav-Khevsureti were made from local wool. The cloth used is thick, heavy and crude but is durable and resistant to wear and tear.

A remarkable specimen of Georgian folk art is a traditional garment of Khevsurs called a talavari. It is sewn from dark blue or black wool cloth. Women’s traditional outfit, a dress called a sadiatso and a mantel called a koklo. Sadiatso are shorter dresses that are tight around the waist and decorated with sophisticated geometric patchwork, embroidery, fine beads, coins and buttons—all of which have sacred meaning. The traditional Khevsur woman’s headdress was also remarkable and differed according

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The traditional clothes of Pshavs resemble those of Mtiuls. A one-piece female dress in Pshavi is called a juba. Later on, one-piece cloth dresses as well as wrinkled two-piece dresses were introduced.

The dresses, which were short and tight around the waise with an opening around the armpits, had a mantel called a papanagi, which was decorated with buttons and coins. Woman wore shirts and a

ornamental patterns. Black, green, blue, dark red and yellow are the dominant colors.

short, long-sleeve jacket called a sagule under the juba. Woman also wore belts and a headdress called a tavchita to complete the outfit.

Woodworking and wood carving are also long-standing traditions in Pshav-Khevsureti. Archeological discoveries of carved ottomans, chairs, and bedsteads, the graphic ornamental pattern used in residential and religious buildings are evidence of the region’s expertise in the aforementioned crafts.

In wintertime, women wore a coat made of sheep skin in addition to their other attire. The coat tightens around the waist and short. Pshav and Khevsur women were fond of decorations and wore necklaces made of silver coins and crosses. It was common for leather or silver to adorn women’s dresses.

The male outfit consisted of a bright-colored shirt called a samkhre and the traditional slim line Khevsur chokha, which had cross-like details on the shoulders.

Indispensible attributes of the male dress were the silver belt, dagger and knitted britches, cow-hide footwear and felt cap.

The modest character of the ornamental pattern and color combination obtained by natural dyes is a general element of Georgian art that one can see reflected in the traditional clothes in every region of the country.

Carpet and rug production are among the leading products of local cottage craftsmanship. It is characterized by the sophisticated combination of cross-shaped

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WEAPONS AND ARMS

Weapons and arms had high importance in Pshav-Khevsureti. Arms included rifles, pistols, swords, daggers, spears, whips, spiked rings, shields, coats of mail, armored gloves, knee plates, and other items. Smithery in Pshav-Khevsureti was a traditional and developed branch of craftsmanship. The locals used to forge swords and rifle barrels, Assyrian-type coats of mail, and shields that were painted black in order not to glimmer in the moonlight. The Pshav-Khevsur people produced a variety of rifles: istamuli (Turkish), khirimi (Crimean), mazhari (Hungarian), siata (French). They also produced a variety of swords: Khevsur prangula, davitperuli, dedal-pranguli (German and Austrian), mamal-pranguli (Italian), dedal-misruli (damask), khorosnuli. In addition, they produced several daggers: shamkhali, targho, lekuri, kisturi, etc.

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FOLK HOLIDAYS

Vazhaoba is an event dedicated to the great Georgian writer and poet Vazha-Pshavela. Every year (in summer or autumn) a traditional exhibition and tasting of agricultural products and folk handicrafts, a horse race and folk festival are held on the territory of the writer’s house-museum in the village of Chargali (Pshavi). Writers, poets, actors come here from every regionin Georgia to read aloud and recite the works of Vazha-Pshavela.

Shatiloba annual festival is held in July. A traditional fair of hand-crafted goods, the

tasting of local cuisine dishes and Khevsur beer is held in Khevsur stone houses and towers, some of which now serve as hotels. A feast and sporting event, a horse race, take place surrounded by a background of singing, poetry, and rhymes.

OTHER LOCAL HOLIDAYS Religious holiday Kopaloba – date varies, Pshavi, Khevsureti New Year’s holiday Vazha’s Days – June, Chargali New Year’s holiday Misha Khalashvili’s Days – June, Ukana Pshavi New Year’s holidays Lasharoba and Tsabaurta – date varies, Pshav villages

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CUISINE Dairy products, meat and beer are characteristic features of Pshav-Khevsureti cuisine. Round-shaped bread is generally baked from barley in stone ovens. It is also a tradition to shape loaves bread by means of a wooden implement. Kada bread is baked both kveliani (with cheese) and khavitsiani guliani (with cottage cheese). Khinkali are made with meat, cottage cheese and potato fillings.

Milk is used to produce melted butter, cheese, dambali khacho, which is a special soaked cottage cheese. Dambali khacho is a Pshav dish that was recognized as part of Georgia’s intangible heritage in 2014. Beef and mutton are in a variety of local meat dishes.

Melted butter is used to prepare a traditional dish called khavitsi (cottage cheese boiled in butter). The most popular dishes to treat guests are kninkali (dumplings generally with the filling of mutton but also of cottage cheese and potatoes spiced with onion and pepper) and ketseula (khachapuri cooked in melted butter).

KHAVITSI - 4 kg melted butter 50 g milk (or water) 1 tablespoon salt 1.5 kg brown flour Khavitsi is cooked in a copper pan. Melt a tablespoon of salt in 50 g of milk, add 4 kg of melted butter and stir the mixture until it is fully combined. After it boils, add 1.5 kg of brown flour, put it on a low heat and stir occasionally with a flat wooden spoon for about 2 hours.

At first a thick mixture is produced which should be stirred until it starts thinning – the flour mixture will sink to the bottom and the butter will come to the surface.

When the mass changes its color, the khavitsi is ready.

Fruit and vegetables grow well in Piraketa Khevsureti and Pshavi. To prepare pkhali (a vegetable pate made of spinach and other herbs), the following herbs can be used: amaranth, pigweed, fern, nettle and watercress. Local fruits and berries include pears, apples, strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, bilberries, etc.

For holiday feasts, locals make vodka and beer. Vodka is distilled from barley, hop and barley-hop mix. Sometimes it is made from common elder and elder.

Beer has a special place in Pshav-Khevsur culture.

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HOW TO GET TO THE REGION AND PSHAVKHEVSURETI PROTECTED AREA 50 km along the road leading from Tbilisi northward to Stepantsminda, near the village Chinta, there is a turn to the right, from which a dirt road runs along the Zhinvali reservoir. The road passes the village of Shuapokho and the Chargali junction, and the village of Magharoskari (the administrative center of Pshavi) to take you to Barisakho. The Pshav-Khevsureti Protected Area begins at the village of Ortskali, wherefrom to the right, along the Pshavis Aragvi, the road runs to Ukana Pshavi. To the north, it passes through the Khevsur villages – Barisakho, Korsha, Gudani, Biso, and others until the road goes up along a scenic area and goes through Datvisjvari Pass (2676 m a.s.l.), which leads to Shatili. On the way, the Lebaiskiri and Kistni towers are observable. At Datvisjavari Pass you might see tourists admiring the boundless landscapes of Khevsureti.

• Tbilisi-Mtskheta–Chinti– Magharoskari–Shatili– 150 km; can be covered in 4-5 hrs; includes 70 km of dirt mountain road.

• Tbilisi–Tianeti–Magharoskari– Barisakho–Shatili – 170 km; 100 km footpath; includes 120 km of dirt mountain road.

Footpaths and horse paths are available from Tusheti and Khevi.

The motor road leading to Magharoskari and Barisakho operates year round, whereas the Barisakho-Shatili section is closed from the second half of autumn to spring due to the large amount of snow the section receives over the winter. Inner rural roads have been built and operate everywhere (except Arkhoti), including in the Shatili-Mutso communities, although in Pirikita Khevsureti, vehicular transportation is only possible for 5 months of the year.

Public transport A minibus takes passengers to Shatili three times a week (from the village of Gamarjveba to Shatili and from Didube bus station (Tbilisi) to Shatili).

A bus takes passengers to Shuapkho from the Didube bus station 3 days a week.

A bus travels to Barisakho 4 times in a week and travels on a daily basis to Magharoskari and Chargali.

Minibuses to Barisakho depart from the Didube bus station.

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HISTORICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL UNITS

POPULATION

Pshavi is the southeastern part of historic Pkhovi. It was named in the 16 centh

tury. Today, together with Khevsureti, it belongs to Dusheti municipality. Pshavi is known in Georgia as the native land of Vazha-Pshavela. The great poet was born and worked in the village of Chargali.

Pshavi is the smallest historic and ethnographic province of Georgia. It is bordered

by Khevsureti to the north, Gudamakari to the west, and Tianeti to the southeast.

The area of Pshavi is sparsely populated.

The district has historically had small villages within the Magharoskari and Ukana Pshavi (Shuapkho) sakrebulos. The population’s migration, caused by hard living and economic conditions, started in the 19th century. At the end of the 19th century, there were 48 villages in Pshavi, and the population exceeded 5 thousand; today’s statistics are as follows: up to 20 villages and 1,000 inhabitants. According to their respective populations, very sparsely populated villages can be found in Ukana Pshavi—7 of which have less than 10 inhabitants. The population of Pshavi today is scattered along the Aragvi, Iori, Ilto and Alazani riverheads. They also live in

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YEAR NUMBER OF VILLAGES

PSHAVI

Gombori, Ertso-Tianeti and Shiraki.

Table 1. Dynamics of settlements and population of Pshavi. Barisakho and Ukanapshavi 1886 1959 1970 2002 48

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30

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5067 1411 1335 1002

The main river of Pshavi is Aragvi, which originates in Botana-Borolo (3,135 m). Climate change is caused by the physical and geographical situation of Pshavi (1,0003,000 m a.s.l). In comparison with the lower areas of the Caucasus, the climate is relatively mild. The annual average temperature is 11 0C, with cold winters that are 6 0C on average. The annual precipitation is between 1,000-1,200 mm, and rain and mist is common in the summertime.

Pshavi ranked second among Georgia’s regions in terms of sheep breeding, with the most popular sheep breeding area being Tusheti. Because of the pastures necessary for the activity, Pshav sheep breeders settled in Iori, Gombori, Ertso-Tianeti and Shiraki; the cottage industry in the area works primarily with sheep-breeding related activities.

MONUMENTS OF CULTURE There are no towers preserved in Psahvi—only ruins. There are several ruins in Ukanapshavi, which is where the Pshav communities originally settled.

These tower-fortresses were generally destroyed in the 13th century when the Pshav’s rebelled against the king. Afterwards, they were prohibited from re-

storing the fortress-towers. Additionally, foreign tribes rarely penetrated into the region and defensive warfare could be carried out without fortresses.

PSHAV FORTRESS WALL At the converging point of Shuapkho and Goglaurta, on a high hill, the dry stone wall of Pshav Tsikhe-Gora Fortress stands; its height and width is 14 x 25 m. The for-

tress is difficult to access. A 70 cm thick wall stands in the northern part. To the south, the fortress meets a steep cliff, on the northwestern part of which some gaps are observable.

A similar 50 x 50 m fortress wall has been preserved in the village of Muko. Its wall is high and has some gaps. Two towers are built on it. Both Mtiuluri-style towers are partially destroyed.

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PSHAVI TOURIST ROUTES

1

1 BARISAKHO–ORTSKALI–TKHILIANA– SHUAPKHO–MUKO–UKANAPSHAVI

Easily-driven motor road (dirt) Distance: 25 km Length: 7 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 1,630 m Min. height: 1,330 m 6 km from Barisakho, in the village of Ortskali, a dirt road turns to the right and runs along the right bank of the Aragvi River. 4-wheel drive SUVs can make it up to Ukanapshavi. Footpaths on the route run all the way up to the Great Caucasus, passing the villages of Shaupkho, Muko (1.1) and Ukanapshavi (1.2).

Trails leading to the Greater Caucasus Range from Pshavi

1.1 MUKO–MATURA–BOROLA RANGE ENVIRONS

Distance: 14 km. Above average difficulty Length: 6 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 2,900 m Min. height: 1,330 m The trail starts in the nearby surroundings of the village of Muko and goes to the Maturkhevi River gorge. It is possible to cross the river by means of small wood rafts/logs. These logs are frequent-

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ly brought in during the spring flood and their location changes from year to year.

5km along the way, the road goes to the small village of Matura, and there from runs along the eastern river bank up to the range and the local shrine (1700 m a.s.l). It then goes round the mountain massif and runs up to a height of 2,200 m. Therefrom the route stops climbing and runs eastward along the range, parallel to the Borilo river gorge. After several kilometers, it reaches the bottom of the Greater Caucasus Range, crosses the river and goes up along a steep 700-m rise towards the range. After passing this distance, at a height of 2,900 m a.s.l, the route joins the third (Datvisjvari-Borola) footpath.

1.2 UKANAPSHAVI–SORBISGORI RANGE

Distance: 7 km. Average difficulty Length: 4 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 3,000 m Min. height: 1,620 m From the village of Eliagza in Ukana Pshavi, the trail goes northward to Mt. Saorbisgora. After 7 kilometers, it joins the third (Datvisjvari-Borola) footpath, wherefrom it is possible to go over both Andaki Pass (13 km eastward) and Datvisjvari Pass (7 km westward). From Andaki Pass westward, the route descends to the villages of Andaki, Mutso and Shatili. Going eastward, it runs to Mt. Borola.

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KHEVSURETI Khevsureti encompasses the Aragvi (Barisakho, Gudani–Piraketa Khevsureti), Arkhoti, Shatili and Ardoti (Pirikita Khevsureti) gorges. Khevsureti borders Tusheti to the east, the Russian Federation (Chechnya) to the north, Khevi and Mtiulet-Gudamakarito the west, and Pshavi to the south. Khevsureti has several deep gorges; its name sake Khevsureti implies that it is a place of deep gorges, as the term khevi means gorge in Georgian.

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Before the 1950s, 81 inhabited villages were in the basins of these gorges, including 35 located within the heads of the Aragvi River Basin. Today, 33 of Khevsureti’s villages are completely deserted; 48 villages (200 households, 700 persons) are inhabited, although the majority of them spend winter in lowland districts. Only 20 villages have permanent residents.

Table 2. Khevsureti Population Dynamics BARISAKHO SHATILI COMMUNITY COMMUNITY YEAR

2010 2012 2010 2012

NUMBER OF HOUSEHOLDS

204

163

67

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POPULATION

604

526

251

119

The Barisakho and Shatili municipalities comprise 10 principal communities: Piraketa Khevsureti (Barisakho Communiity Sakrebulo) • Gveleti Community – villages: Motsmao, Sakhile, Datvisi, Gveleti, Achekha • Barisakho Community – villages: Kvemo Barisakho, Zemo Barisakho, Korsha • Chirdili Community – villages: Chirdili, Buchkurta, Uakanakho, Lipoda, Ubani, Okherkhevi • Tskalsikiti Community – villages: Ghelisvake, Kmosti, Roshka, Blo • Gorsheghmi Community – villages: Ukankhadu, Tsinkhadu, Atabe, Batsaligo, Chkhuba, Akbeli, Zeistechno • Gudani Community – villages: Gudani, Ghuli, Chie, Biso, Khakhmati, Chormeshavi, Zenubani • Likoki Community – villages: Akusho, Chalisopeli, Kobulo, Keo, Kartsaulta, Bogcvilo

Pirikita Khevsureti (Shatili Community Sakrebulo) • Arkhoti Community – Amgha, Chimgha, Akhiela

villages:

• Shatili Community – villages: Shatili, Giorgitsminda, Kistani, Lebaiskari, Guro • Mighmakhevi Community – villages: Mutso, Khanis Dziri, Ardoti, Khone, Khakhabo, Archilo, Andaki, Tsukie.

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POINTS OF INTEREST IN KHEVSURETI Arkhoti is situated in the Asa River Gorge, in northern Khevsureti, bordering Ingushetia to the west. It joins Piraketa Khevsureti via footpath. The principal sanctuary of the Arkhoti community is the cross of St. Michael the Archangel. Only three villages still remain in Arkhoti.

Amgha is situated near the Arkhoti community. The fragmentary remains of buildings preserved on terraces of the former village are built from dry slate stones.

The monuments preserved in the village environs are: Gagati House-fortress; Tatraulebi Tower; Orbelti Church, the site of an ancient village; Kaviskatri Tower; the iron cross of church ruins; the Sveti An-

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gel’s Cross; and the ensemble of a shrine including a hall, granary, “Droshat Sabzani”, tower, belfry tower, and the wall.

Akhieli Batakat House-fortress is located in central Akhieli. Kharat Tower-fortress is located 200 m northeast in the upper part of the village.

Anatori Cross is situated in Pirikita Khevsureti, 3 km from Shatili, at the confluence of the Arghuni and Mutsostskali rivers within the ancient village of Anatori. According to historical sources, the village, where the family of Sisuaris lived, died out in the 18th century. Long ago, the village was plagued by an infection, and since no one remained to bury and take those who had passed away to the crypt, the sick villagers had to go themselves to the crypt and patiently await their demise there. In the crypt, along the wall, slatestone three-tier burial spaces were arranged. Archaeological excavations in the

crypt discovered wooden vessels, various knickknacks, arrowheads and coins. The Anatori Cross was the common sanctuary of the Shatili community.

Ardoti is a village built on the left bank of the Andaki River in the Shatili community (Pirikita Khevsureti), at a height of 1,820 m a.s.l.—15km from Shatili. A church from the 19th century, a so-called “free cross” type structure, the Ziviadauri Tower (which is located in the southern part of the village, on the slope), dates back to the Middle Ages. The Blessed Virgin’s Cross can be found in the village. The sanctuary consists of a hall, belfry, the lighting towers, boiler, public room (sajare) and a granary.

Barisakho is the administrative center of Khevsureti. The village has a school, a medical center and a police station. The Georgian National Museum keeps a ritual water vessel with the depiction of a lion sacrificed to the Barisakho Khmala Angel (12th-14th cc).

Giorgitsminda Hill-Fortress (Tsikhetgori) Necropolis is an archaeological monument 5 km from Shatili at the confluence of the Arghuni and Giorgitsmindistskali Rivers (v. Giorgitsminda, Pirikita Khevsureti). It dates back to the end of the 3rd century BC. The village has no permanent residents today.

Gudani Cross, a the 19th century relic is situated in the village of Gudani (Piraketa Khevsureti). It is considered to be the principal deity of the three main tribal-communal unions of Arabulis, Chincharaulis and Gogochuris and is a religious center for all of Khevsureti.

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Kistani Village-fortress—this medieval historic-architectural monument is situated in the Arghuni river gorge at an elevation of 1,800 m a.s.l. The village-fortress is built on a rock relief and is divided into two compact units. The main part of the village (now the site of an ancient settlement) consisted of up to 30 house-fortresses, which served both domestic and defensive purposes. The ruins of these house-fortress have been preserved.

Not far from the village, on a high rock, two well-preserved defensive structures stand.

Guro, the former village of Shatili, is situated 7.5 km southwest of Shatili’s current location. Currently, the village has no permanent residents. In the town, there are the remains of a 17th-18th century pyramide-shaped tower that used to have five stories in the village.

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Lebaiskiri Tower is located in the Arghuni river gorge, near the site of the ancient settlement of Lebaiskiri, at a distance of 300 m from the Barisakho-Shatili motor road. The tower dates back to the Middle Ages. The tower has five stories and is built of rubble. The entrance is in the east on the second floor, 2.2 m above the ground.

Mutso—a village-fortress situated in Pirikita Khevsureti, in the Ardoti river gorge, at 1,800 m a.s.l., at a distance of 12 km from Shatili, on top of high rocks. Since time immemorial, Mutso has been a single fortification, a defensive system and the principal safeguarding point of the roads leading to Georgia from the north.

In the village, which was depopulated more than a century ago, there are up to forty medieval houses and household structures. They are located on vertical terraces on top of Mutso-Ardoti Gorge.

Today, four tower-fortresses and the ruins of several dwellings have been preserved, including the legendary Torghvi Fortress and a tower. Mutso is divided into two parts: the upper, older, Shetekari district, and the second, relatively new, Diauri district. The remote village is a popular site among tourists and mountain climbers.

Roshka is situated in Pirikita Khevsureti and is one of the oldest settlements, through which an important inner road passed. In the 19th century, the local population began migrating from Roshka to Ertso-Tianeti. According to the 1924 census, 137 people lived in the village; their primary economic activity was cattle breeding. Currently, the village has only a few permanent residents. Didgori Cross— the principal sanctuary of Roshka-Kmosti—is not far from the village. It includes a hall, a space for castrating cattle, Mariamtsminda Tower and a belfry.

Khakhabo Village-fortress is located in Pirikita Khevsureti, 25 km from Shatili.

The ruins of over 30 house-fortresses have been preserved in the village. Prince Bedli Angel’s Cross is located on a high rock northeast of the village. The ensemble of the shrine consists of a granary, boiler and belfry.

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Shatili Village-fortress is a monument of Georgian architectural art. It is located to the north of the Greater Caucasus Range, at 1,400 m a.s.l. The village-fortress is 170 km from Tbilisi. This late Middle Ages construction served as both a dwelling and fortification. A series of clustered house-fortresses create a single, defensive wall that protected the village. Only a narrow road running through the Arghuni Gorge connects the village to the outer world. Shatili is terrace-built; the principal type of buildings are flat-roofed houses and tower dwellings. What makes Shatili unique is its system of connection through inner passes, which makes it possible to move within the whole village without leaving its defenses. Since 2007, Shatili has been included in the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites.

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KHEVSURETI TOURIST ROUTES 2 BARISAKHO–ROSHKA–ABUDELAURI– CHAUKHI–JUTA–STEPANTSMINDA

The route can be traversed by foot, horseback and partially by car (from Barisakho to Roshka and from Juta to Stepantsminda).

Distance: 14 km (Roshka-Chaukhi), total distance — 50 km (Barisakho-Stepantsminda) Above average difficulty Length: 6-7 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 3,338 m Min. height: 2,000 m 9 km from Barisakho, there is a left turn on the Barisakho-v.Gudani road. From there, a dirt road runs along the right bank of the Aragvi River to the village of Roshka. The local landscape is defined by deciduous trees from the middle mountain belt. Visitors can see a forest of protected species of alpine oak (Quercus macranthera) and elm (Ulmus glabra). From Roshka (2,000 m a.s.l), the route goes to the Mt. Chaukhi Massif (3,852 m a.s.l) and the Abudelauri lakes (2, 600 m a.s.l). The distance from the village of. Roshka to Abudelauri (the southern slope of Mt. Chaukhi) is 4 km.

The site is noted for its intrusive formation of the Jurassic Age, the so-called “swinging blocks”, which have been granted the status of a national monument and

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are included in the Red Book; vaucluses (karst water springs) and alpine “green lakes” can also be observed here.

The most scenic view, encompassing the southern part of Chaukhi Massif, the Kazbegi peak and the main North Caucasus Range, opens from Mt. Chaukhi (3,338 m a.s.l). One can also observe the Sadzele and Arkhoti passes and Arkhoti, Kalotani and Tanie ranges up to Datvisjvari Pass.

The route goes over to the main Greater Caucasus Range. The village of Juta (1,509 m a.s.l.) is 7 km the first settlement. From Juta, a motor road runs along the Sno gorge to the regional center, Stepantsminda.

2.1 ROSHKA–SADZELE PASS–JUTA– STEPANTSMINDA

Traversing this route can be accomplished via a footpath, which starts on the Barisakho-Dudani road. After traversing about 8 km and crossing a bridge, there is a 7 km route that ends in Roshka. The route can covered by foot or horseback.

Distance: 7 km. Average difficulty Length: 607 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 3,056 m Min. height: 2,000 m The route from Barisakho to Roshka follows a motor road. Northwest along Roshka Gorge, the trail goes to Tapoba, which is at the foot of Sadzele Pass (3,056 m a.s.l.). About 2,500 m along the path, the pass begins a steep incline. The trail 4.2 joins the site. Passing this section of the Roshka-Juta route is easier than that of Chaukhi (Trail 2).

2

3

3 DATVISJAVARI PASS–

CHANCHAKHI–BOROLA– ANADAKI PASS

Distance: 19 km. Above average difficulty Length: 8-9 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 3,024 m Mon. height: 2,000 m The trail commences from Datvisjvari Pass (2,767 m), continues eastward on the main road, then descends to the Chanchakistskali River (2,500 m). The trail turns and leads to Khakhabo (7.1 – Datvisjavari-Tsubrovana/Chanchakhi Pass), wherefrom it goes along the Chanchakistskali up to the village of Khakhabo and then over to Ardoti Gorge. The third trail proper turns eastward and leads up the main Greater Caucasus Range. Upon reaching a height of 3,000 m, it goes eastward to the peak of Mt. Chanchakhi (3,024 m), the Borola peak (2,954 m) and crosses with the trails leading to Pshavi (1.1 and 1.2). The third route reaches Andaki Pass (2,887 m), runs eastward for 13 km along the range, wherefrom it descends to both Mutso and Shatili, and goes over to Tusheti, passing the surroundings of Mt. Borbalo.

4

KISTANI–KALOTANA PASS (2 978m) –KALOTANA AND ASA GORGES– AMGHA–AKHIELI–ARKHOTI–JUTA

The route can be traversed by foot and horseback.

Distance: 38 km. Difficult Length: 2-3 days Max. height: 3,287 m Min. height: 1,700 m From Kistani, the road leads southeast.

Upon reaching a height of 3,000 m a.s.l. and passing the main Greater Caucasus

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Range, it descends eastward. At the Aknekhistskali River, the road turns westward towards Anatorisgheli Pass (2,768 m). The trail, while not reaching Kalotana Pass, is divided—one main trail goes northward to Kalotana Pass along the Caucasus ranges at a height of 3, 000 m, while the other trail (4.1) passes Atabe and descends southward to Gudani (11.5 km).

The path of the main Trail 4 descends from Kalotana Pass northward towards the upper reaches of the Kalotana River and follows the gorge up to the site of an ancient Kalotana settlement (1,700 m).

Thereafter the path continues along the gorge and descends to the confluence of the Asa River. From here, the route joins Trail 5, which continues eastward to Shatili or northward over to Arkhoti Gorge.

The northward trail: 4 km from the Asa and Kalotana confluence, in parallel with the Asa River, south-westward, in the village of Akhieli, several mountain streams join to form the Asa River. From the village, a 7-km section of the trail runs along the gorge, turns southward and joins the trail leading to Arkhoti through the Roshka Gorge (Trail 4.2 – 9.5 km). After about 5 km, the trail follows the mountain stream and turns westward towards Arkhoti Pass.

At Arkhoti Pass (3,287 m) the route goes down towards the gorge, reaching a the height of 2,700 m, and further down follows the little Veshatskali River at a height of 2,700 m to join the main trail that transfers to Roshka (Trail 2.2 – Roshka-Sadzele). There is a police station 4 km outside of Juta on the way. A dirt motor road runs from Juta to Sno Gorge.

4.1 UKANDAKHU–ATABE–GUDANI This path connects Trail 4 with the Trail 2 (which is the path going over to Roshka).

4

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5

5 SHATILI–GIORGITSMINDA–

KALOTANA PASS (2,978 m)– KALOTANA AND ASA GORGES

The route can be traversed by foot, horseback, and partially by car (Shatili-Giorgitsminda) Distance: 29 km. Above average difficulty Length: 2 days, 10 hrs (on foot) Max. height: 3,486 m Min. height: 1,800 m After passing the Shatili — Giorgitsminda motor road, the trail runs along the Giorgitsminda river gorge up to Isartghele Pass (3 486 m). The route continues

northwestward to the village of Tanie, wherefrom the road forks northward and southward. Both paths pass through the gorge. The southward route (5.1) goes along Tanie Gorge to Tanie Lake (2,232 m) and continues further southward, where, at a height of 3,000 m a.s.l., joins Trail 4 and, passing the village of Atabe, heads in the direction of Gudani.

Trail 5 proper continues from the Tanie Gorge northwestward up to the Asa River tributary; thereafter it joins Trail 4 (the Asa and Kalatana confluence), which goes from the Asa River up to the village of Akheli and then over to the gorge.

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6 SHATILI–ANATORI–MUTSO– KHONICHALA–KHIDOTANI– ATSUNTA PASS

The route can be traversed by foot, horseback and partially by car (Shatili-Mutso-Khonischala, 14 km). Creating a corridor between Tusheti and Khevsureti, it is one of the most popular trails in Pshav-Khevsureti.

Distance: 25 km. Above average difficulty Length: 2 days, 8-9 hrs (on foot), 5 hrs (partially by car) Max. height: 3,519 m Min. height: 1,800 m The route follows a dirt road from Shatili northeastward. 2 km along the route, at the confluence of the Andaki and Arghuni rivers, Anatori burial grounds can be found. The motor road runs southward along the Andaki River Gorge, 12 km from which is the village of Mutso. From Mutso, along the Khonistskali River, the path goes through the village of Khonischala and ascends via a steep dirt road (1,900

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m), passes forests and reaches a small plateau. There from, at an elevation of approximately 2,500 m, there is a turn to a second trail (6.1 – Khidotani Gorge-Andaki River). The main route continues south eastward towards Atsunta Pass (3 519 m).

Several kilometers from the Kharostskali River, at a height of about 3,000 m, a steep serpentine road goes along slopes of slate rocks and eventually arrives at Atsunta Pass.

6.1 KHIDOTANI RIDGE– ANDAKI RIVER

This trail connects two long routes, making it possible to go directly down from Khidotani Range westward to Andaki Gorge. It is a good choice for those wanting to travel from Atsunda to the Pshavi region or middle Khevsureti.

Distance: 4 km. Above average difficulty Length: 2 hrs Max. height: 2,400 m Min. height: 1,800 m

6

7

7 SHATILI–MUTSO–ARDOTI– ANDAKI–ARCHILO– ANDAKI PASS–BORBALO

The route can be travered by foot, horseback and partially by car (Shatili-Mutso-Ardoti, 16 km). From Mutso to Andaki Pass, the trail will repeatedly cross the Andaki River and its small tributaries. Given that in springtime water levels in the river tend to rise, traversing this trail can be difficult.

7.1 ARDOTI VILLAGE

SURROUNDINGS–KHAKHABO VILLAGE–MOUNT CHANCHAKHI SURROUNDINGS

This trail connects two long routes (Route 3 and 7) and makes it possible to travel between Khevsureti to Pshavi. The trail crosses the Chinchristskali River several times during the first 6 km of the route.

Distance: 12 km. Difficult Length: 6 hrs on foot

Distance: 25 km. Difficult

Max. height: 3,134 m

Length: 9 hrs (on foot), 6 hrs (by car and on foot)

Min. height: 1,800 m

Max. height: 3,134 m Min. height: 1,400 m From Shatili, the route follows a dirt road northeastward along the Arghuni River.

After 2 km, at the confluence of the Andaki and Arghuni rivers, some Anatori burial can be found. The dirt motor road follows the Andaki River Gorge southward, where after 12 km it passes through the village of Mutso. From Mutso, the road goes along Adaki Gorge to the village of Ardoti.

The route then passes the turns for Trails 1.1 and 6.1. From there, the trail goes southward, passing the village of Andaki and the site of an ancient Archilo settlement (1,800 m). It covers 6 km along rolling plains, and there are plenty of good places to set up camp. At aheight of about 2,100 m, at the confluence of two rivers, the trail goes southward, reaching a height of 2,700 m, crosses the Borola River, turns westward and goes southward to the environs of Andaki Pass at a height of 2,700 m. From there, after several km, the path joins Trail 3 (Datvisjvari Pass-Borbalo) and goes over to Patara Borbalo Pass.

The route starts in the southern part of the village of Ardoti (at about 1 km along the trail) and heads westward along the Chinchristskali. After 6 km, the trail leads to the village of Khakhabo (at 2050 m a.s.l.), where some medieval fortifications are located. The path goes southwestward along the river gorge. After 6 km, it joins Trail 3 at 2,500 m a.s.l.

7.2 KHAKHABO–LEBAISKIRI The main road connecting trail (westward); it goes from the village of Khakhabo to Lebaiskiri. The trail starts in Khakhabo at 2,050 m a.s.l. and goes toward Datvisjvari Pass. At Lebaiskiri, it joins the main road. The trail passes through some beautiful and scenic flower-covered meadows.

Distance: 8 km. Difficult Length: 4-5 hrs Max. height: 2,500 m Min. height: 1,800 m

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8

8 CHIRDILI MEADOW–CHIRDILI– UKANAKHO–LIPODA– UBANI–CHIRDILI MEADOW (ROUND ROUTE)

Distance: 15 km. Above average difficulty Length: 6-7 hrs on foot Max. height: 2,000 m The trail starts in the Chirdili village meadow, passes the frontier post, wherefrom after 400 meters, the road forks. The left dirt road leads to the village of Chirdilshiadi, and the right one runs along the Chirdili River, eventually reaching the village of Buchukurta after a distance of 3.5 km. From there, the road goes along the slope up to the village of Ukanakho (1,730 m a.s.l). From Ukanakho, a path leads to the village of Lipoda, which is located under the southern slope of the Chiukhebi Mountains, at which point a steep trail descends to the village of Ubani. From Ubani, the route leads back to Chirdili.

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USEFUL INFORMATION Official days off and holidays New Year’s Day (January 1, 2) Orthodox Christmas (January 7) Orthodox Epiphany/Baptism (January 19) Mother’s Day (March 3) Women’s Day (March 8) National Unity Day (April 9) Orthodox Easter (varies, March-April-May) Orthodox Easter Monday Victory against Fascism Day (9 May) St. Andrew’s the First-called Day (12 May) Independence Day (26 May) Mariamoba, Assumption of the Virgin Mary (28 August) Svetitskhovloba – celebration of the first Christian church in Georgia, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (14 October) Giorgoba, Saint George’s Day (23 November)

BANKS/ATMS Purchases and other business transactions in Pshav-Khevsureti are made in Georgia’s national currency, the lari. The region lacks currency exchange points and ATMs. The use of credit cards is not possible. As such, please bring hard currency with you when travelling to the region.

TELEPHONE SERVICE Most family hotels/guesthouses provide long-distance telephony through mobile network operators such as Magticom, Geocell and Mobytel; however the Pshav-Khevsureti area is not completely covered by these companies. It is best to purchase a SIM card prior to your trip to Pshav-Khevsureti in Tbilisi.

REGION’S POLICE

Dusheti town police service: 112

PETROL FILLING STATIONS Dusheti Town – Wissol, Gulf Tianeti township – Wissol Misaktsieli village – Lukoil

WATER Tap water is safe in most places. Bottled carbonated and still mineral waters can be purchased in shops and/or guesthouses.

GROCERY STORES When travelling in Khevsureti, please bring food and snacks with you. Fresh, ecologically safe products may be purchased at the local market in Dusheti, however. Small convenience stores can be found in Magharoskari. Barisakho, Korsha and Shatili.

THE NEAREST BANK SERVICE Liberty Bank, ATM; address: Town of Dusheti, 56 Rustaveli St.; Tianeti township, 1 Rustaveli St. Bank of Georgia, ATM: Town of Dusheti, 46 Rustaveli St.; Tianeti township, 4 Rustaveli St. Bank of Georgia, Express Service Center: Town of Dusheti, Central Department Store.

AGENCY OF PROTECTED AREAS Tel.: +995 577907272; +995 322720388, *8888 Facebook: Agency of Protected Areas Contact information: +995 577 64 04 80 info@apa.gov.gewww.apa.gov.ge

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VAZHA-PSHAVELA HOUSE-MUSEUM Address: village of Chargali, Pshavi Contact person: (+995 55) 12 75 27; Lela Razikashvili; lelaraz@yahoo.com Legal status:Â Legal Entity of Public Law (LEPL) since 2008 (Ministry of Culture and Protection of Monuments of Georgia)

19th centuries: Khevsur female and male attire, household implements and arms, furniture, copper ware, relevant documentary materials and paintings by Shota Arabuli.

Working hours: 11:00-16:00, every day.

The house-museum contains memorial articles associated with the life and work of the well-known Georgian writer Vazha-Pshavela (1861-1915). The ethnographic materials in the museum date back to the 19th century and the early 20th century. The museum also has a collection of the poet’s publications, photos, etc.

SOUVENIRS The most popular souvenirs are handmade goods (knitted socks, shawls, carpets, paintings, and earthenware), which can be purchased from families and in local workshops.

WORKSHOP KHVARAMZE

www.khvaramze.ge Dusheti Town, Administrative Center of the Region KORSHA MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND ETHNOGRAPHY (a division of

Vazha-Pshavela House-Museum) Address: v. Korsha, Barisakho Telephone: +995 95 503 134 Shota Arabuli The museum maintains ethnographic material reflecting the way of life of the 18th-

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PHARMACIES Since no large pharmacies and properly operating medical centers are available in the region, please bring necessary medicines with you when travelling in the region. Village hospitals operate in populated administrative units.

ARABULI ART HOUSE Address: Chirdili village, Khevsureti Contact person(s): Berdia Arabuli +995 59562 63 77 Nino Arabuli: +995 56898 01 04, +995 55526 33 68 narabuli@gmail.com, www.facebook.com/ArabuliArtHouse The main functions of Arabuli Art House as a cultural center and hotel are research, study, preservation and development of Khevsureti’s ethnological, intangible cultural heritage and to help visitors and the general public familiarize themselves with that heritage. The Arabuli Art House also has workshops.

Local Tourism Agency SHATILI TOUR offers eco and cycling, trekking and cultural tours in Pshav-Khevsureti and in neighboring areas.

Telephone: +995 551 943446, +995 598 196569 shatilitours@gmail.com www.shatilitour.ge

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Address: Bazaleti Lake, Dusheti Municipality Contact person: David Luka Kapiashvili Telephone: +995 599 61 62 30 www.facebook.com/davidluka.kapiashvili

ETHNO-TOURISM COMPLEX OKROS AKVANI (Golden Cradle) Before going to Khevsureti, we recommend paying a visit to the Ethno-Tourism Complex, Okros Akvani, of David Luka Kapiashvili. The recreational area arranged in Khevsur-Scottish style with skyscraper towers and original architecture promise a pleasant pastime. You will feel the highland soul, Pshav-Khevsur hospitality and traditions. If you are lucky, you might even be able to take part in local folk festivals that are frequently celebrated in Pshav-Khevsureti.

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ARAGVI ADVENTURE CENTER LTD. If you want to go rafting or cycling, we highly recommend that you visit the Aragvi Adventure Center, located in the village of Tvavlivi, 70 km from Tbilisi. Aragvi Adventure Center rents bikes, tents and sleeping bags. It also offers guides and instructors and recommendations for campsites.

Address: Tvalivi village, Pshavi Contact person: Soso Mekvevrishvili Telephone: +995 555 29 82 97, +995 597 29 82 97

BIOFARM MTIS PRODUKTEBI (Mountain Products)

info@adventure-center.ge,

Vakisopeli, Ukana Pshavi (at the turn to Ortskali village – 19 km distance)

soso.mekvevrishvili@gmail.com www.adventure-center.ge, Facebook: Aragvi Adventure Center

Contact person: Nodar Tokhosashvili Telephone: +995 598 58 57 33

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FAMILY HOTELS/GUESTHOUSES

GUESTHOUSE

PSHAVI

Address: v. Chargali, Pshavi

HOTEL PSHAVI

Address: v. Magharoskari, Pshavi

Contact person: Melano Mchedluri

Contact person: Beso Tsotskolauri

Telephone: +995 599 15 22 41 The house offers three rooms with basic services.

Telephone: +995 599 18 88 83, +995 55 78 52 75

GUESTHOUSE

This hotel offers excellent accommodations for both groups and individual tourists. Visitors are offered comfortable rooms with hot water, cable TV, Internet and three meals a day. The hotel has a veranda with a scenic view, a pool, a billiard table and table tennis; the host can also arrange trips to Shatili and Gudani, as well as rafting and horse riding excursions from the hotel.

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Address: v. Chargali, Pshavi Contact person: Tamriko Zurabashvili Telephone: +995Â 598 37 47 31 The house offers three rooms with basic services. The host can also arrange sightseeing tours for her guests.

KHEVSURETI KORSHA

concurrently. A scenic view opens up from the balconies. The host has extensive experience receiving guests.

Address: v. Korsha, Barisakho, Khevsureti Contact person(s): Mamuka Arabuli, Shota Arabuli Telephone(s): +995 599 74 11 99, +995 595 50 31 34 In a yard near the main road, this family hotel offers 7 bedrooms, a living room and a camping area. There is another house nearby in which the host family lives. The hotel is decorated with wooden ornamental patterns; visitors may see and buy locally-made souvenirs and other handcrafted goods. The house has a kitchen, a living room, bathroom and toilet room. The hotel can host up to 18 visitors

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Nana Gogochuri Telephone: +995Â 599 99 20 25 A cottage located 20 m from the main road, near the river, in a green yard, from where the Shatili towers on the opposite river bank can be seen. The house offers three rooms with basic services. The host can also arrange sightseeing tours for her guests. The house has an anteroom, a living room, two bedrooms and can host 12 visitors. A kitchen, bathroom and toilet are in a separate building located in the yard.

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Irma Gigauri Telephone: +995Â 595 50 36 22 The house offers three rooms with basic services. It is located in Shatili near the river bank. You can reach the guesthouse by crossing a bridge. It has a small yard with beehives. It also has a small lobby. Visitors

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may make use of three bedrooms, the windows of which face the open space of an annex. The annex is also used as a dining room. In the back part of the building, there is a bathroom and toilet.

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Zhuzhuna Chincharauli Telephone: +995 599 20 32 08 A cottage located 30 m from the main road, from which the Shatili towers on the opposite river bank can be seen. The yard can be used for campfires and camping.

12 visitors may make use of 4 rooms with basic services, including a bathroom and toilet. The kitchen is in the backyard.

GUESTHOUSE

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Sopho Chincharauli Telephone: +995 596 71 97 99 A two-story house surrounded by a low fence and a small stone-paved yard. The ground floor is partially underground. 10 visitors may make use of three bedrooms, a dining room and sittingroom. The balcony has a view of the river.

Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Lela Gogochuri Telephone: +995 594 34 47 76 This house is located near the intersection of Zeda Shatili and Kveda Shatili. Visitors may use a mansard house and a cottage in the yard, which also has a washstand and cabins. In the back part of the house, there is a ladder and a small balcony, through which the bedroom is accessed.

The house has 4 rooms and can accommodate up to 11 visitors. 8 visitors can be accommodated in 2 separate rooms (although the cottage has 3 bedrooms).

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Mikheil Chincharauli Telephone: +995 595 50 37 98 This two story house has 4 rooms, a living room and a dining room decorated with traditional ornaments and a fireplace. The

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host is a local doctor and stays in Shatili year round. The house also has a large backyard.

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Mzia Tsiklauri Telephone: +995 599 80 73 80 In the small fenced yard of the house there is a corner where family handicraft goods are exhibited. The house has two stories with 5 bedrooms for 11 guests, a sitting room and a dining room and kitchen. It has two bathrooms.

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Vazha Chincharauli Telephone: +995 595 50 36 57 Visible from the roadside, this house has a small fenced yard and small balconies in the back. The building has two stories with a mansard roof and two bedrooms that can accommodate 9 guests. The ground floor has a large dining room with a bar and a kitchen. The host extensive experience receiving guests. In the environs of the so-called towers he has his own kiosk, where he rents rooms for his guesthouse.

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Mzia Chincharauli Telephone: +995 595 51 84 52 The house has a small yard seen from the roadside. It has 4 bedrooms that can accommodate up to 14 people. The host has extensive experience receiving guests.

FAMILY HOTEL

Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Dato Chincharauli (Jalabauri) Telephone: +995 598 12 76 14 A family hotel offering traditional Khevsur hospitality. The anteroom has a recreation corner. The same floor has a shower room and toilet. There are bedrooms on the second and third floors. Each floor has two bedrooms. The hotel is able to host up to 16 guests. The third floor has a balcony facing the river. The hotel has traditional windows similar to those found in a fortress.

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a long balcony with a scenic view. It has 5 rooms that can host up to 14 guests.

A corner with exhibits of traditional attire and decorations is arranged on the ground floor. The same floor has a toilet and bathroom. The host is experienced in receiving guests, has his own local products and a has a diner in the upper side of Gudani.

GUESTHOUSE

Address: Zeda Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Shorena Chincharauli Telephone: +995 598 37 03 17 This house is located in the environs of old towers and is a traditional Khevsur three-storied tower. All three floors have bedrooms, 2 on each floor and can host up to 12 guests. The ground floor has two toilets and bathrooms. The third floor also has balconies facing the river. A kitchen is in the backyard.

GUESTHOUSE

Address: v. Roshka, Khevsureti Contact person: Shota Tsiklauri Telephone: +995 599 39 97 89 This house is located at the highest part of the village of Roshka and is very close to the tourist route. The house has two storeis and a balcony, from which a scenic view of the village opens. A traditionGUESTHOUSE

Address: v. Gudani, Khevsureti

al corner is arranged on the balcony. The ground floor has a large dining room and kitchen. The second floor has 4 bedrooms

Contact person: Dzila Chincharauli

for 13 guests and a living room. A building

Telephone: +995 593 30 11 70

in the yard has a bathroom and a toilet

The house is near the marked tourist route. It is traditionally decorated and has

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with a washstand.

JUTA CAMPING “ZETA”

Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda Contact person: Anano Arabuli Phone: +995 577 50 10 57 www.zeta.ge www.facebook.com/zetacamping Camping “Zeta” is located at 2,300 m a.s.l,

HOTEL “JUTA”

Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda Contact person: Nanuli Arabuli Phone: +995 595 45 55 58 www.facebook.com/pages/JUTA-HOUSE Hotel "Juta" offers 9 rooms total.It has 7 double rooms and 2 triple rooms. The hotel can also provide additional beds.

at the foot of Chaukhi rocky massif. It is located 200 km from Tbilis. Here visitors can rent a cottage for 15 persons, tents for 25 persons and a GEO-SPHERE for 16 persons. The camping area is equipped with the necessary facilities. It also has a café. “Zeta” offers trekking, mountain climbing, horseback riding and adventure tours. The tourist season is June-October.

HOTEL “MEKHUTE SEZONI” (Fifth Season) GUESTHOUSE

Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda

Address: v. Juta, Stepantsminda

Contact person: Gela Arabuli

Contact person: Iago Arabuli Phone: +995 599 53 32 39 This guesthouse / B&B. Can host up to 10 people.

Phone: +995 555 01 15 15 www.facebook.com/fifth.season.juta The hotel can accommodate 20 persons.

It also has a cafe.

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BOOKING Family hotel/guesthouses can be booked directly by contacting the host or through these organizations: Local tourist agency SHATILI TOUR www.shatilitour.ge /+995 551 943446; +995 598 196569 Biological Farming Association ELKANA +995322536487 / info@ruraltourism.ge Ecological Tourism Development Center +995 599 275010 / info@ecotourism.ge

PRICES The overnight stay rate at a hotel/guesthouse varies between GEL 25-65 per person, including breakfast. Every host family cooks lunch, makes sack lunches for picnics, and suppers upon request.

CATERING Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Irma Gigauri Telephone: +995 595503622 The host of the house across a bridge has a shop and cafĂŠ in a small fenced yard.

Address: Kvemo Shatili, Khevsureti Contact person: Nana Gogochuri Telephone: +995 599992025 A cottage located near the river bed, opposite the Shatili Towers. Food can be ordered here.

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LEGEND

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