40 Years of Jewellery at Leonard Joel by Leonard Joel

40 YEARS of Jewellery at Leonard Joel

2 Miss Claire Adams MacKinnon marries Mr Donald John Scobie Mackinnon, London, April 1937

Claire Adams MacKinnon, Courtesy of National Trust of Australia

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Celebrating Jewellery Collections. Since 1981. — In 1990 I was a young auction store person at Leonard Joel (I prefer the English expression “porter”, but I will keep this real!) with an interest in jewellery, and I was lucky enough to have been mentored by Graham Joel, who gave me a long leash as I tried to win exciting business. In that same year, I went head-to-head with Christie’s for a wonderful Melbourne jewellery collection, The Birnszweg Collection. When it was confirmed that we had in fact won the collection, my father, Kurt Albrecht, told me with pride that it was the most important collection of jewellery to come onto the auction market since the Claire Adams MacKinnon collection of 1981; also sold by Leonard Joel. I had never heard of the famous Hollywood silent movie actress, but I was pleased with Leonard Joel’s success with this pitch as my father had also advised me that it was the most important collection of jewellery ever sold in Australia. And so that’s where we mark the beginning of the Leonard Joel jewellery department; 40 years ago, when we were entrusted to sell the Claire Adams MacKinnon Collection, the woman who graces our cover.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Where all those jewels are now is anyone’s guess. Some would surely still reside in Australia, but most I’m sure have found their way to international collections. No records being available at Leonard Joel from this time make the task of finding pieces from it a tantalisingly difficult one, so I would be delighted to hear from a client that reads this and may, just may, still own a memory from that auction in McKillop Street Melbourne. Since then, we have been honoured to have managed every significant jewellery collection that has come to auction in this country. The Birnszweg Collection, that I have already mentioned, The Kozminsky Collection, The Schlager Collection, and most recently, The John T Hinkley Collection, from our Sydney salerooms. At Leonard Joel we love jewellery; the discovery it brings and the research it demands, and now, 40 years on, we state with great pride that we now provide our clients the largest Fine and Important jewellery marketplace in Australia, one that holds the record for the three most expensive diamond rings ever sold at public auction in the country. As our 41st year approaches, we look forward to the next discovery and hopefully, setting new records for our clients. JOHN ALBRECHT

Chairman / Head of Important Collections

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Pearls So rare, that Cartier bought his 5th Avenue building in New York for the price of a double-strand necklace, spotted in the Cartier window by one young Maisie Plant who just had to have what at the time was the most expensive pearl necklace in the world, valued at more than $1,000,000 in those days. Her husband could not find the cash, but he did have the 5th Avenue building, and with that, in 1916 one of the greatest swaps in history took place. This loose pearl, impossibly, survived half a century in a box full of costume jewellery, the owners oblivious to its rarity or value. Sold to New York.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN ANTIQUE PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT Sold for $143,993 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A CONTEMPORARY HANDCRAFTED “PENGUIN PLAYGROUND” RING Sold for $17,080 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Playgrounds There is great goldsmithing and then there are those pieces that rightly enjoy the status of a work-master creation, and this was just such a piece. As fantastical as it is ambitious, its maker Ewen Ryley managed to create a miniature three-dimensional world for penguins and, just as importantly, a wearable piece of jewellery.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Flowers While the Victorians mastered the faithful reproduction of everything and the Art Nouveau period brought a naturalism altogether different again, jewellers of the post-war period began to design with an aesthetic that embraced abstraction and a bolder use of metals and stone cuts. This brooch by Cartier perfectly and simply captures the blossoms on a barren winter branch, without realism in mind.

A FLORAL BROOCH BY CARTIER Sold for $11,780 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Opals This vasette brooch issuing blooms perfectly encapsulates the ethos and design of the Art Deco period. The striking use of boldly coloured gemstones set in unexpected and contrasting, predominantly geometric combinations, signals a departure from the floral and decorative and heralds in an invigorating and confident modernity.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN OPAL AND DIAMOND BROOCH Sold for $5,612 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Art Deco Art Deco, short for Arts Décoratifs, took its name in the 60s from the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes held in Paris in 1925. Practitioners combined contemporary aesthetics with fine craftsmanship and rich materials. Art Deco designs are symmetrical, geometric, streamlined, often simple, and pleasing to the eye.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN AMAZING PLATINUM AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CIRCA 1930 Sold for $187,500 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN IMPORTANT SOLITAIRE DIAMOND RING BY TIFFANY & CO. Sold for $229,360 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Tiffany & Co. The heart-shaped diamond is considered the ultimate everlasting symbol of love and affection. Heart-shaped diamonds are among the rarest and most complex shapes to cut, and the skill of the cutter is critical. This spectacular 5.73 carat heart-shaped diamond by Tiffany & Co. is as superior in its symmetry as it is enduring in its symbolism.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN IMPORTANT DIAMOND COCKTAIL BROOCH AND EARRINGS BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sold for $51,164 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Van Cleef & Arpels Admired for fine craftsmanship and whimsical design, Van Cleef & Arpels has been recognised as a premier international jewellery house throughout the 20th Century. Steeped in romance, the firm began in 1895 when daughter of precious gem dealer, Estelle Arpels, married diamond broker Alfred Van Cleef. Exclusive clientele has included Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor, and Grace Kelly, as well as royalty, Hollywood stars, and aspirational socialites.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Kozminsky Unknown Photographer

LEONARD JOEL

Provenance Auction houses talk frequently about provenance. Where a Lot has “been” is really what this means in its simplest sense. The more elaborate explanation is that the word refers to the Lot’s history of ownership, its inclusion within any exhibitions and, hopefully, with a timeline to complete the picture. Often a provenance is incomplete but sometimes a single magic word - that it came from a famous family, a famous jeweller, or a famous moment in history - is all it takes to make that provenance special and that Lot, in the process, more valuable. This diamond necklace enjoys the magic word “Kozminsky” and in Australia, there is no more magic a word when it comes to jewellery provenance!

AN IMPRESSIVE ANTIQUE DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE Sold for $20,740 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Graff The company famous first and foremost for the world’s finest diamonds and coloured stones, Graff’s foray into horology put on display superior gem-setting skills in the designs of its exquisite jewel encrusted wristwatches. A visual feast, the “Disco Butterfly” diamond and ruby wristwatch is a sophisticated statement piece that seamlessly unites jewellery and horology, as only Graff can do.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A GRAFF ‘DISCO BUTTERFLY’ RUBY AND DIAMOND WRISTWATCH Sold for $70,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A LOOSE KASHMIR BLUE SAPPHIRE Sold for $52,425 IBP

Rarity In the last 40 years, less than a few sapphires displaying the quality of “blue velvet” or “the peacock’s neck” as it is referred to in India, have found their way to Leonard Joel. Every auction house in the world would tell the same story. The sapphires of Kashmir revealed themselves to the world in 1881, by chance, during a landslide within the beautiful but extremely remote Paddar valley in the Zanskar range within the Himalayas. It was another year before a fine example was spotted by a trade route gem-trader with a keen eye, and the desire for one of the rarest precious stones began. 140 years later, with the finest discoveries ending in the late 1920s, this desire has not waned, the world over.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Zanskar Range, Himalayas25

40 YEARS | 40 TREASURES

Belle Époque Characterised by garlands, swags, bows, and foliate motifs, jewels of the Belle Époque (1890-1914) reflect the neoclassical and rococco motifs of the 18th Century French courts. This delicate and lacy pendant captures the mood and optimism of the “Beautiful Era,” a time of increasing wealth, innovation, and flourishing arts, which would come to a halt with the outbreak of WWI.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A BELLE ÉPOQUE DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE Sold for $22,320 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Tactile It is a combination of the materials, creativity, and expert craftsmanship that produces exceptional pieces of jewellery. This flexible strap features 411 emeralds and 161 diamonds, and is masterfully constructed to seamlessly move with the wearer as it drapes the wrist. Expertly articulated to create a dazzling play of colour and brilliance, this bracelet can rightfully claim to be a “statement piece”.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN ELEGANT 18CT WHITE GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET Sold for $67,500 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Record Breaking Diamonds

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Records This magnificent 25.02 carat diamond, the most expensive diamond ever sold at public auction in Australia, was meticulously cut from a 47.961-carat rough. Mined in the Canadian Tundra, it was discovered in Gahcho Kué Diamond Mine, Kennady Lake, Northwest Territories. Cut to exacting specifications, this diamond is defined by its exceptional life, brilliance, and fire.

A SPECTACULAR PLATINUM AND DIAMOND RING Sold for $1,125,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A PLATINUM AND DIAMOND RING Sold for $575,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Diamond Sparkling with an unmatched brilliance and internal fire all its own, diamonds are by far the world’s most sought-after and cherished gemstone. Billions of years in the making, diamonds represent one of nature’s most wondrous and precious gifts. After being formed in the earth under immense pressure and heat, precise cutting and polishing brings out their incomparable beauty.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN EXTRAORDINARY DIAMOND AND ARGYLE FANCY PINK DIAMOND RING Sold for $725,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Silhouette This exceptional gem possesses a soft cushion-shaped silhouette with a modified cutting style. Informed by the profile of the antique ‘old mine cut’, the modern cushion-shaped diamond debuted at the beginning of the 18th Century. One of the best-known examples of this modern style is the 140.64 carat Regent diamond. Discovered in Golconda, India in 1698, it was acquired by Thomas Pitt, the Governor of Fort St. George, and subsequently cut in London by the diamantaire Harris between 1704-1706. Formerly a part of the French Crown Jewels, since 1887 the Regent has been on display at the Louvre, Paris.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Blue The discovery of tanzanite brought a blue like no other to the marketplace in 1968, when Tiffany & Co. introduced it to jewellery lovers for the first time. Its gemmological name was far too long for buyers, so Tiffany chose the name after Tanzania, the only country within which the stone is found, and there only in one very small area. The scale and depth of colour available can be breathtaking and this pendant of more than 120 carats is just such an example.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN 18CT WHITE GOLD, TANZANITE AND DIAMOND PENDANT Sold for $99,200 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN IMPORTANT DIAMOND SET ENAMEL AND GOLD RUSSIAN IMPERIAL PRESENTATION BOX WITH MONOGRAM OF TSAR ALEXANDER II (1855-1881), MARK OF CARL MARTIN WEISHAUPT UND SÖHNE Sold for 124,000 IBP

History The humble box has been interpreted and reimagined by jewellers for centuries, for the whims of royalty to the wealthy (and everyone in between) and no more so than for the 304-year reign of the Romanovs. The house of Fabergé no doubt set the bar for perfection in workmanship and artistry and this goal informed every jeweller that had the honour of a royal commission. This lavish presentation box speaks to these goals and somehow this piece, rich in Russian history, found its way to our shores.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

41 Tsar Alexander II of Russia / Alamy

40 YEARS | 40 TREASURES

Mappin and Webb advert / Alamy

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Politics Demonstrating the wearer’s alliance to the Suffragist Movement, fine jewellery bearing the Women’s Social and Political Movement (WSPU) colours of purple, white and green surged in popularity in the early 20th Century. The suffragettes embraced contemporary fashion so enthusiastically that London jewellers Mappin & Webb released an entire catalogue dedicated to suffragette jewellery in 1908.

AN ANTIQUE SUFFRAGETTE BROOCH / PENDANT Sold for $32,240 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A RARE GOLD SPLASH NECKLACE BY GEORG JENSEN Sold for $18,600 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Design An acknowledged leader of 20th Century Danish design, Henning Koppel obtained a contract with Georg Jensen in 1945. Shortly after he created the ‘splash’ motif, exploring irregular outlines to mimic the movement of water. The motif was explored by Koppel in both sterling silver and 18ct gold and has become synonymous with mid-century jewellery design.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN OUTSTANDING PAIR OF DIAMOND PENDANT EARRINGS Sold for $800,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Pairs The term diamond comes from Greek word adamas, meaning “invincible,” or “unbreakable.” The wearing of a diamond is believed to enhance one’s personal power and courage while inspiring innovativeness, imagination, and creativity to one’s endeavours. It is also believed to generate wealth and abundance in life, whilst helping one to overcome personal obstacles. Also, the symbol of eternal love, diamonds are believed to instil fidelity in relationships.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Miniature Mysterious and intimate, ‘Lover’s Eye’ miniatures became extremely popular in late 18th Century British society. With only the eye pictured and the identity of the sitter concealed, the trend of gifting and wearing painted miniatures was rumoured to have begun with the scandalous affair between the Prince of Wales (later King George IV) and Maria Fitzherbert.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A GEORGIAN HAND PAINTED MINIATURE EYE LOCKET, FORMERLY THE PROPERTY OF THE EARL OF WARWICK Sold for 22,320 IBP

Birds At the turn of the 20th Century, the heightened interest in botany, fauna, and the natural world provided inspiration for the innovation and creativity in jewellery designs of the era. In this charming pendant the egret and the macaw are elevated to a status of jewellery, adorned as the birds are in precious gemstones. In a masterful and creative twist, the jeweller also uses multi-coloured feathers in this playful display of skill and ingenuity.

A MOTHER-OF-PEARL, FEATHER AND GEMSTONE PENDANT NECKLACE, CIRCA 1925 Sold for $15,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Advert for jewellery designer David Webb in American fashion magazine circa 1983 / Alamy

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

David Webb One of the most powerful ways to transform one’s look or capture an expression of style is through jewellery. None understood this better than David Webb. Often referred to as the quintessential American jeweller, David Webb’s jewels captured the zeitgeist of the 1960s and 70s. David Webb’s design aesthetic revolved around creating visual impact and drama. He approached jewels as ‘wearable art’. His unique creations were characterised by bold sculptural forms, textured surfaces, and strong colours.

AN IMPRESSIVE PAIR OF 18CT GOLD, EMERALD, DIAMOND AND CORAL PENDANT EARRINGS, DAVID WEBB Sold for $62,500 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

The Catalogue Covers of The John T. Hinkley Collection 2019, The Schlager Collection 2017 and The Kozminsky Collection, 2017

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN IMPRESSIVE PLATINUM, 18CT GOLD, FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING Sold for $287,500 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Fancy Fancy coloured diamonds represent the world’s rarest diamonds. In 1817, Abbé Haüy, the honorary canon of Notre Dame and “Father of Modern Crystallography”, described gems as the flowers of the mineral kingdom, and the fancy-coloured diamond as the orchid. So rare are coloured diamonds that only one in 100,000 diamonds qualifies as a ‘Fancy’ colour. The odds lengthen exponentially as diamonds increase in size.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Ruby Legend surrounds natural ruby as one of the most valuable and commanding gemstones in the history of precious jewels. For corundum to earn its status as a ruby, red must be its dominant hue, and when a ruby is not subject to heat treatment, it further cements its status as a rare and significant gemstone. Set with a 5.18 carat Burmese unheated ruby, the vivid “pigeon’s blood” colour is further heightened by 3.08 carats of dazzling diamonds.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A PLATINUM AND 18CT WHITE GOLD, RUBY AND DIAMOND RING Sold for $25,000

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A PLATINUM, AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR Sold for $37,500 IBP

Sautoir Beautiful to pronounce and beautiful around the neck, Coco Chanel would tell you that they must be at least 40 inches long – no doubt to create drama and allow for versatility - but the reality is that such a necklace can really be any length as long as it suspends something beautiful. The combination of delicate art deco motifs within the diamond necklace and a spectacular emerald cut aquamarine satisfy the criteria for a jewellery design that began with lavish strands of pearls, but in the 20th Century found expression with diamonds and precious stones.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Commemorative A presentation jewel given on the occasion of the launch of the cargo liner MV Melbourne Star, this impressive aquamarine and diamond brooch certainly marked the event, both in elegant style and in the significant substance of a 25.00 carat aquamarine.

AN EDWARDIAN PLATINUM AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, EARLY 20TH CENTURY Sold for $20,000

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A STUNNING PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS Sold for $57,500 IBP

Oscar Heyman Established in New York in 1912 by Latvian émigré Oscar Heyman, the firm (OHB) has long been recognised as “the jeweller’s jeweller” for its incomparable workshop and outstanding manufacturing techniques. In 1969, Cartier commissioned OHB to make the Taylor-Burton diamond necklace featuring a magnificent 69.42 carat pear-shaped diamond.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A SPECTACULAR 18CT GOLD, FANCY COLOURED SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND DIAMOND ‘SAPPHIRE FLOWER’ BRACELET, BULGARI, CIRCA 2004 Sold for 181,250 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Bulgari Inspired by designs from the mid-century, in 2004, Bulgari launched the Sapphire Flower Collection featuring an extraordinary selection of fancy-coloured sapphires in vibrant hues including mauve, raspberry red, lime green, violet, and sky blue, that went on to define a new era for the house.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Toi et Moi Translating from French to ‘you and me’, Toi et Moi designs feature two principal stones, nestled together to symbolize a loving union and entwining of two souls. The sentimental style was brought into the spotlight when Napoleon Bonaparte gifted a ring set with a sapphire and diamond to Empress Josephine. This contemporary interpretation of a classic Toi et Moi design juxtaposes vivid blue sapphires with soft pink hues of Argyle diamonds with a dazzling result.

AN 18CT WHITE GOLD, SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND ARGYLE FANCY PURPLISH PINK DIAMOND RING Sold for $55,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A PAIR OF 18CT GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS Sold for $27,500

Bombé Oscar Heyman said “Jewelry should transcend time like a fine painting, never losing its appeal.” In these bejeweled clips, the bombe design does exactly that. Bombé, literally “bomb-shaped,” is a motif that offered foundations for a multitude of variations on a jewellery theme, with each period through the 50s, 60s and 70s providing an interesting and varied adaptation. Here the lustrous rectangular-cut sapphires are intermittently set between brilliant-cut diamonds in the domed mount.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A SOUTH SEA PEARL NECKLACE BY AUTORE Sold for $43,750 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Strands One of nature’s greatest miracles, pearls have long been associated with wealth, status, and myth in cultures around the world. Whilst many species of oyster can produce natural pearls, the Pinctada maxima delivers the most impressive variety; substantial, spherical, and luminescent, with an unparalleled lustre.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Condition One might say for something to be rare, it needs to be in its original condition. This most certainly applies to significant gemstones, and in the case of sapphires less than 1% discovered are of gem quality without treatment. The natural unheated 14.35 carat Burmese sapphire set in this impressive ring meets all the expectations of what a gemstone should be: original, rare and captivating.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A RARE 18CT WHITE GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING Sold for $137,500

A PLATINUM AND 14CT GOLD, JADE, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1920 Sold for $10,000 IBP

Jade Centering a jadeite delicately carved with floral motifs, and contrasted with monochrome geometric forms, this brooch illustrates the striking intersection between Art Deco design and the aesthetics of the Far East. Set in platinum circa 1920, it reflects the opulence and joi-de-vivre associated with the era, as well as a social appreciation for Chinese and Japanese materials and design elements.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Time Jewellery of the 1960s and 70s has a look that’s all its own. Unapologetic big stones, creative uses of worked gold with an almost sculptural intent, and gems that, before this time, would rarely have enjoyed the consideration of a jeweller. Add to this ring timekeeping and a glass that is the gemstone, in this case a peridot that would normally grace a delicate Edwardian necklace, and you have all the elements of a jewellery piece as comfortable by the pool as it would be out to dinner.

A RARE 18CT GOLD, PERIDOT AND DIAMOND ‘SPRING RING WATCH’, NO. 83 FROM THE ‘ABOUT TIME COLLECTION’, FOR OMEGA BY ANDREW GRIMA, 1969 Sold for $33,500 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A DIAMOND AND GEM SET GIARDINETTO BROOCH FORMERLY BELONGING TO AGATHA CHRISTIE Sold for $37,200

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Celebrity As desirable as this giardinetto or “small garden’” brooch may be, mounted with a dazzling array of colourful gemstones to imitate flowers and foliage set in a basket, it is equally prized for its provenance. The brooch is confirmed as having belonged to the world’s top selling mystery writer, Dame Agatha Christie, and its documented history is a testament to the power of provenance.

Dame Agatha Christie on her 80th Birthday, 1970

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Perfume Today we take for granted the miniaturisation of everything, including the delivery mechanisms of perfume, but before the 20th Century this was not such an easy or automatic task. The vinaigrette was the compact solution. This one, crafted from gold coins in a lavishly engraved gold mount when most were created in silver, bears all the signs of an important European commission and its interior chamber, with its exquisite, pierced design, is where perfume on a sponge was held for a traveller centuries ago.

A GOLD COIN VINAIGRETTE Sold for $21,875 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Graham Joel Auctioneering

Gravure en Taille-douce: pl. I, 1771/1779. [Intaglio engraving] / Alamy

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A CARNELIAN INTAGLIO RING BY LUIGI PICHLER Sold for $18,750 IBP

Intaglio Depicting a classical figure carved in Carnelian in an understated gold setting, this intaglio was signed in miniscule Greek lettering indicating the hand of 19th Century master craftsman Luigi Pichler. Exceedingly rare to market, the unassuming intaglio drew a huge amount of interest from international bidders and was secured by a collector in Hong Kong.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

A PLATINUM, COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING Sold for $125,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Emerald The coveted green variety of the Beryl mineral family, the sumptuous colour of emeralds is due to the presence of trace elements Chromium, Vanadium or a combination of the two. In his publication on Natural History, Pliny the Elder said of emeralds ‘nothing greens greener’; a statement validated by the vivid and intoxicating hue of Colombian emeralds.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

Enamel Inspired by the discoveries made in Egyptian, Hellenistic, and Etruscan excavations in Europe throughout the 19th Century, this gold and enamelled suite reflects the wider societal interest in classical prototypes at the time. Delicately enamelled, in remarkable condition and presented in the original fitted case, the demi-parure sold to a collector in London.

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

AN ARCHEOLOGICAL REVIVAL GOLD AND JEWELLED ENAMEL DEMI-PARURE ATTRIBUTED TO EUGÈNE FONTENAY, CIRCA 1870 Sold for $36,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

IMAGE CREDITS PAGE 6 – 7 AN ANTIQUE PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT The baroque teardrop shaped natural pearl of silver white hues measuring 13.25 by 26.0mm, to a rose-cut diamond set cap and bale, suspended on a trace chain, all mounted in platinum. $143,993 IBP PAGE 8 – 9 A CONTEMPORARY HANDCRAFTED “PENGUIN PLAYGROUND” RING Centrally set with a lace agate pool of ice with a dreamscape-cut aquamarine iceberg above, having two penguins and diamond detail to the edges, encased in a synthetic sapphire dome, mounted in an elaborate frame set with round brilliant-cut diamonds together weighing 2.50 carats and blue sapphires of graduated hues together weighing 8.00 carats, mounted in 18ct white gold, ring size S. This ring was created for the 2012 Australasian Jewellery Awards by Ewen Ryley. The piece was announced as a finalist in the Coloured Gemstone Category. $17,080 IBP PAGE 10 – 11 A FLORAL BROOCH BY CARTIER Set throughout with marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds together weighing 4.00 carats, mounted in 18ct gold, signed Cartier, L974, boxed. $11,780 IBP PAGE 12 – 13 AN OPAL AND DIAMOND BROOCH The oval shaped opal within an openwork frame set with single, old European and baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in 18ct white gold $5,612 IBP PAGE 14 – 15 AN AMAZING PLATINUM AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CIRCA 1930 The Art Deco bracelet is modelled as an articulated line of geometric links decorated with carré, baguette and circularcut diamonds together weighing approximately 33.00 carats, circumference approximately 180mm. Accompanied by a fitted box, The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company Ltd, 112 Regent Street, London, W.1. $187,500 IBP PAGE 16 – 17 AN IMPORTANT SOLITAIRE DIAMOND RING BY TIFFANY & CO. The heart-cut diamond weighing 5.73 carats, with certification from Tiffany stating colour E, clarity VS2, reference number S00089, mounted in platinum, boxed. $229,360 IBP

PAGE 18 – 19 AN IMPORTANT DIAMOND COCKTAIL BROOCH AND EARRINGS BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS The brooch of stylised scroll design set with graduated sprays of round brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18ct gold, signed, reference 77123l the earrings en suite, signed, reference B5954. $51,164 IBP PAGE 20 – 21 AN IMPRESSIVE ANTIQUE DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE Comprising fifty one graduated old-cut diamonds individually box set and having alternating drops of geometric and floral design, finished with seventeen old-cut diamonds in lozenge frames with three scroll diamond set features terminating the box setting, mounted in gold and silver, converts to a tiara, boxed. $20,740 IBP PAGE 22 – 23 A GRAFF ‘DISCO BUTTERFLY’ RUBY AND DIAMOND WRISTWATCH Having an ETA quartz movement, circular revolving diamond and ruby dial, 18ct white gold diamond set case with diamond set crown, red alligator bands with diamond set buckle, having a diamond set time setting push piece, reference number FBF38WGRD, 38mm diameter, boxed with papers. $70,000 IBP PAGE 24 – 25 A LOOSE KASHMIR BLUE SAPPHIRE The rectangular step-cut deep blue sapphire of 2.28 carats, accompanied by a GSL report stating no evidence of heat treatment and origin Kashmir. $52,425 IBP PAGE 26 - 27 A BELLE ÉPOQUE DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL PENDANT NECKLACE Of pierced and scroll design, set throughout with old European-cut diamonds together 9.70 carats, centrally set with a buttoned shaped natural pearl measuring 9.8mm, with a further natural pearl measuring 8.4mm suspended from a swag of diamonds, having a convertible screw brooch fitting, all mounted in platinum, suspended from an associated contemporary pearl and belcher link necklace in 18ct white gold, total length 430mm. $22,320 PAGE 28 – 29 AN ELEGANT 18CT WHITE GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET Modelled as a 22mm wide flexible strap embellished with 411 circular-cut emeralds and 161 brilliant-cut diamonds, the emeralds and diamonds together weighing 16.50 carats and 7.86 carats respectively, completed by a concealed box clasp, length approximately 175mm. $67,500 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

PAGE 32 – 33 A SPECTACULAR PLATINUM AND DIAMOND RING The square emerald-cut diamond weighing 25.02 carats is claw-set above a gallery pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, between shoulders decorated with a line of graduating baguette diamonds, the small diamonds together weighing approximately 3.25 carats, size M. $1,125,000 IBP PAGE 34 – 35 A PLATINUM AND DIAMOND RING The emerald-cut diamond weighing 17.34 carats is claw-set between shoulders and gallery pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 1.00 carat, size L. $575,000 IBP PAGE 36 – 37 AN EXTRAORDINARY DIAMOND AND ARGYLE FANCY PINK DIAMOND RING The antique cushion-shaped diamond weighing 9.67 carats is claw-set between half-moon diamonds, the edge and shoulders pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the gallery and underrail similarly set between a pair of Argyle natural fancy pink diamonds, the small pink and near colourless diamonds together weighing approximately 0.06 carat and 2.10 carats respectively, mounted in platinum and 18ct white gold, size L. $725,000 IBP PAGE 38 – 39 AN 18CT WHITE GOLD, TANZANITE AND DIAMOND PENDANT Featuring an oval- cut tanzanite weighing 122.41 carats, within a decorative, scalloped surround of round brilliant and marquisecut diamonds together weighing 8.89 carats, to a snake link chain, all in 18ct white gold. $99,200 IBP PAGE 40 – 41 AN IMPORTANT DIAMOND SET ENAMEL AND GOLD RUSSIAN IMPERIAL PRESENTATION BOX WITH MONOGRAM OF TSAR ALEXANDER II (1855-1881), MARK OF CARL MARTIN WEISHAUPT UND SÖHNE Hand crafted in gold, the ornately sculptured and engraved hinged box measuring 90 x 60 x 35mm, with raised and carved scrolled patterns to the lid , harlequin patterned blue enamel oval centre section and applied diamond set crown and initial “A II”, surrounded by an oval border of mine cut diamonds, with six old European cut diamonds to the surround together weighing 10.60 carats, the repousse body finely hand engraved and the base also engraved with a scroll, leaf and floral design, the inner lip is stamped with the numbers 2378 and hand etched 27377, the base impressed mark 14 CMWS 2378, mark of Carl Martin Weishaupt und Söhne, Hanau, 157 grams, with original fitted presentation box.

Provenance: The Raymond Schlager Collection, purchased from a descendant of the Engstrom family, Circa 2006. Notes: Jewelled boxes of this type are rarely seen at auction in Australia. A similar example is held at the National Museum of Helsinki Finland. On 3rd December 2007 (Lot 110), Bonhams and Goodman sold a similar box for $234,000.00 AUD IBP. On the 24th of February 2015, Sotheby’s London sold a similar box that was paste set for $48,000.00 GBP IBP $124,000 IBP PAGE 42 – 43 AN ANTIQUE SUFFRAGETTE BROOCH / PENDANT Centrally set with an oval amethyst of 76.40 carats, surrounded by demantoid garnets, seed pearls and enamelled scrolls, mounted in 15ct gold. $32,240 IBP PAGE 44 – 45 A RARE GOLD SPLASH NECKLACE BY HENNING KOPPEL FOR GEORG JENSEN Styled in 18ct gold, signed, reference 1088B, total length 410mm. $18,600 IBP PAGE 46 – 47 AN OUTSTANDING PAIR OF DIAMOND PENDANT EARRINGS Each terminating in a cluster swing drop centring a claw-set cushion modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 8.88 carats and 8.76 carats respectively, framed by a halo of brilliant-cut diamonds, suspended from a half hoop surmount pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, between a claw-set emerald-cut diamond connector, the small diamonds together weighing approximately 1.40 carats, mounted in 18ct white gold, length approximately 38mm, post and clip fittings. $800,000 IBP PAGE 48 A GEORGIAN HAND PAINTED MINIATURE EYE LOCKET, FORMERLY THE PROPERTY OF THE EARL OF WARWICK The embossed and engraved circular locket set with turquoise and a single seed pearl to the lid, the reverse set with a single diamond and emerald, opening to reveal a hair locket and a hand painted miniature of a female right eye within a cloud surround, suspended from a fancy link chain, all mounted in 18ct gold. Provenance: Anne Schofield Antiques, Sydney - Purchased from Christies London, Miniatures & Objects de Vertu, Circa 1970, Property of the Earl of Warwick, Warwick Castle. $22,320 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

PAGE 49 A MOTHER-OF-PEARL, FEATHER AND GEMSTONE PENDANT NECKLACE, CIRCA 1925 Centring a circular glazed compartment framed by a spherical platinum surround enclosing a mother-of-pearl plaque, the obverse with image of an egret applied with feathers, the reverse with image of a scarlet macaw similarly decorated, the frame surmounted with a geometric motif decorated with circular-cut diamonds, carré sapphires, white chalcedony and red paste, terminating in a bead-set diamond, completed by a 9ct white gold trace chain, pendant diameter approximately 37mm. $15,000 IBP PAGE 50 –51 AN IMPRESSIVE PAIR OF 18CT GOLD, EMERALD, DIAMOND AND CORAL PENDANT EARRINGS, DAVID WEBB Each terminating on a detachable ovoid coral bead swing drop applied at intervals with gold teardrop collets embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds, surmounted by a bell cap pavé-set with diamonds, supported from a pear-shaped coral surmount similarly decorated between a pear-shaped cabochon emerald connector, length approximately 56mm, signed Webb for David Webb, post and clip fittings. $62,500 IBP PAGE 54 – 55 AN IMPRESSIVE PLATINUM, 18CT GOLD, FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING Of cluster design, centring a claw-set natural fancy intense yellow cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 10.01 carats, framed by a halo of near colourless brilliant-cut diamonds, between similarly set shoulders, the small diamonds together weighing approximately 0.55 carat, size N. $287,500 IBP PAGE 56 – 57 A PLATINUM AND 18CT WHITE GOLD, RUBY AND DIAMOND RING Of bombe form, modelled as a cluster, centring an oval red ruby weighing 5.18 carats, claw-set within an openwork asymmetrical surround of baguette, pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, the diamonds together weighing approximately 3.08 carat, size L1/2. $25,000 IBP PAGE 58 A PLATINUM, AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR Comprising of a necklace modelled as a line of openwork geometric links pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds between rectangular spacers channel-set with baguette diamonds, supporting an emerald-cut aquamarine measuring approximately 28mm x 19.62mm x 11.72mm, framed by an openwork surround decorated with diamonds, the diamonds together weighing approximately 14.00 carats, circumference approximately 500mm, pendant length approximately 55mm. $37,500 IBP

PAGE 59 AN EDWARDIAN PLATINUM AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, EARLY 20TH CENTURY Centring an octagonal step-cut aquamarine weighing approximately 25.00 carats, millegrain-set within a conforming pierced frame set with old and rose-cut diamonds, case by Heming & Co., 28 Conduit Street London. W, and presentation inscription: Presented to Mrs G. H. Trott By Cammell Laird & Co. Ltd., Birkenhead, on the Occasion of the Launch of M. V. “MELBOURNE STAR”, 7th July, 1936. $20,000 IBP PAGE 60 – 61 A STUNNING PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS Of cluster design, centring a square emerald-cut Ceylon sapphire flanked by similarly shaped stones between claw-set circular-cut sapphires and diamonds, size M1/2, numbered 3355. $57,500 IBP PAGE 62 – 63 A SPECTACULAR 18CT GOLD, FANCY COLOURED SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND DIAMOND ‘SAPPHIRE FLOWER’ BRACELET, BULGARI, CIRCA 2004 Modelled as a wide strap comprising of lines of flower heads each centring a brilliant-cut diamond stamen within a surround of petals claw-set with variously coloured pear-shaped sapphires framed by symmetrical openwork annular motifs, pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds decorated at intervals with articulated claw-set diamonds and circular-cut emeralds, completed by a similarly set box clasp, the sapphires, emeralds and diamonds together stated to weigh 77.46 carats, 3.03 carats, and 7.36 carats respectively, length approximately 185mm, signed Bulgari. $181,250 IBP PAGE 64 AN 18CT WHITE GOLD, SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND ARGYLE FANCY PURPLISH PINK DIAMOND RING Of toi et moi design with cluster terminals, claw-set with oval sapphires weighing 3.60 carats and 3.11 carats respectively, framed by claw-set heart-shaped near colourless diamonds between collet-set brilliant-cut Argyle natural fancy purplish pink diamonds, the underrail modelled as openwork scrolls pavé-set with Argyle natural fancy purplish pink diamonds to shoulders accented by brilliant-cut near colourless diamonds, the near colourless diamonds and fancy purplish pink diamonds together weighing approximately 0.59 carat and 0.29 carat respectively, size N1/2. $55,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

PAGE 65 A PAIR OF 18CT GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS Each elliptical half round bombe hoop claw-set to the front at intervals with round brilliant-cut diamonds alternating between rectangular sapphires, maker’s mark for Oscar Heyman, numbered 700694, length approximately 22mm, clip and post fittings. $27,500 IBP PAGE 66 – 67 A SOUTH SEA PEARL NECKLACE BY AUTORE Composed of twenty-five cultured pearls graduating from approximately 19.05mm-15.50mm, completed by an 18ct gold clasp partially decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, circumference approximately 450mm, signed Autore. $43,750 IBP PAGE 68 A RARE 18CT WHITE GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING Of cluster design, centring a claw-set oval Burmese blue sapphire weighing 14.32 carats, framed by brilliant-cut diamonds, supported by similarly set split shoulders, size L. $137,500 IBP PAGE 69 A PLATINUM AND 14CT GOLD, JADE, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1920 The oval-shaped jade plaque carved and pierced with floral motifs is surmounted by a line of scroll motifs pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds between a stylised gold bar applied with black enamel, the reverse with pierced-out jardinière motif, approximately 34 x 32mm, clip fitting. $10,000 IBP PAGE 70 – 71 A RARE 18CT GOLD, PERIDOT AND DIAMOND ‘SPRING RING WATCH’, NO. 83 FROM THE ‘ABOUT TIME COLLECTION’, FOR OMEGA BY ANDREW GRIMA, 1969 Centring a bezel-set, oval faceted peridot ‘glass’ bordered by a line of brilliant-cut diamonds framed by a textured surround and hoop, signed Grima, maker’s mark for Omega, manual, cal. 484, 17 jewels, movement no.: 26’584’837; maker’s mark HJCo for Haller Jewellery Company, British hallmarks for London, 1969., ring inner diameter approximately 20mm, size U. $33,500 IBP

PAGE 72 – 73 A DIAMOND AND GEM SET GIARDINETTO BROOCH FORMERLY BELONGING TO AGATHA CHRISTIE The sizable basket and bouquet comprising opals, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, rose and single-cut diamonds, all in two-tone 18ct gold, circa 1950. PROVENANCE Sale of the contents of Dame Agatha Christie’s home, Greenaway House, Devon, Bearne’s, 12 September 2006, lot 283. $37,200 IBP PAGE 74 – 75 A GOLD COIN VINAIGRETTE Comprising two 1805 escudo coins in 20ct gold, depicting Carlos IV of King of Spain (1788 - 1808) and crowned coat of arms to reverse, set within a decorative surround in 18ct gold. $21,875 IBP PAGE 76 – 77 A CARNELIAN INTAGLIO RING BY LUIGI PICHLER The oval intaglio depicting a classical figure, signed in Greek for Luigi Pichler, mounted in 12ct gold. $18,750 IBP PAGE 78 – 79 A PLATINUM, COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING Centring an emerald-cut emerald weighing 6.98 carats claw-set in 18ct gold, flanked by fancy-cut diamonds together weighing approximately1.02 carats, ring size L. $125,000 IBP PAGE 80 – 81 AN ARCHEOLOGICAL REVIVAL GOLD AND JEWELLED ENAMEL DEMI-PARURE ATTRIBUTED TO EUGÈNE FONTENAY, CIRCA 1870 Designed as a collar applied with gold wirework, granulation and jewelled enamel bead trailing foliate detail, set at intervals with florettes with cable link chains suspending a fringe of detachable amphorae pendants decorated with stylised papyri and palmettes embellished in polychrome enamels, gold wirework and granulation, to a concealed clasp; and a pair of pendant earrings, en suite, mounted in 20ct gold, the centre pendant with glazed compartment to reverse, necklace circumference approximately 350mm, earring length approximately 52mm, unsigned, accompanied by a fitted case Watherston & Son, Goldsmiths, Jewellers and Silversmiths, 12 Pall Mall, East London $36,000 IBP

40 YEARS OF JEWELLERY AT LEONARD JOEL

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