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09 ASCEND Our latest Sea Heroes drill down for the cause of conservation; tips for spotting pillar coral on your next dive; grazing with broadnose sevengill sharks in South Africa; a look at the special lung architecture that protects deepdiving mammals from DCS. 19 TRAIN Pro tips for avoiding out-ofair emergencies; what it’s like to be romanced by a sea lion; tips for nailing macro shots; how to use Lightroom’s camera profiles; the dangers of overrelying on your dive computer.
Dragon moray eels adorned in exquisite colors and patterns can be found off Oman’s coast in the Arabian Sea.
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TROUBLED WATERS
THE FAR COUNTRY
Cocos, Malpelo and the Galapagos are famed for drawing scores of hammerheads and large pelagics. But these animals are more vulnerable than ever to long-line fishermen stalking the highways in between.
Oman has welcomed visitors from afar to the Arabian Peninsula for thousands of years, but few Western divers have discovered the joys of exploring the Hallaniyat Islands underwater.
63 TRAVEL Rediscovering the beauty of the Great Barrier Reef; the top shore-diving destinations around the globe, as ranked by our readers; the natural beauty of California’s Big Sur; 10 reasons to dive the Philippines ASAP.
COVER Great hammerhead sharks are susceptible to long-line f ishing around the globe. Photo by Mar tin S trmiska
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TOBIAS FRIEDRICH
35 SCUBALAB We shine a light on 17 new dive and video lights; see which models earned Testers Choice and Best Buy honors.
DESIGNED FOR THE DEEPLY CURIOUS.
© 2017 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries. 1GPS tracking does not work underwater.
t T A L K
PATRICIA WUEST joined Scuba Diving in October 1992, and has served as assistant, managing and senior editor. A diver for more than 25 years, she was named editor-in-chief in 2013.
scubadiving.com ∂ edit@scubadiving.com EDITORIAL
SPEAK UP
Editor-in-Chief Patricia Wuest Deputy Editor Mary Frances Emmons Managing Editor Andy Zunz ScubaLab Director Roger Roy Digital Editor Becca Hurley Assistant Editor Robby Myers Copy Chief Cindy Martin
The most vulnerable species deserve an advocate in every diver
CONTRIBUTORS Brandon Cole, Eric Douglas, Brent Durand, Bob Friel, Melissa Gaskill, Nicole Helgason, Jennifer Idol, Matthew Meier, Damien Mauric, Eric Michael, Brooke Morton, Erin Quigley, Steve Sanford, Terry Ward, Jamie Watts
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he Golden Triangle — the term divers use for the eastern Pacific islands of the Galapagos, Cocos and Malpelo — is home to hammerhead sharks that once schooled in such large numbers they blocked out the sun. Not any longer. While hammerheads enjoy some protection from illegal fishing when they are near these volcanic islands, they have little to none when migrating across the “corridors” between them. “Troubled Waters” (page 44) describes not only the plight of the hammers but also of the scientists trying desperately to save them. Scuba Diving publishes articles that span all areas of the sport, including gear (page 35), training (page 19), travel features (page 54) and conservation. There is a yin and yang aspect to writing about threats to the ocean and its animals — we celebrate the successes of dedicated conservationists (page 11) and also tackle issues that are sometimes controversial. As “Troubled Waters” was taking shape, I stumbled on a Columbia Journalism Review online piece written by Steve Buttry. Buttry reminded readers that the Society of Professional Journalists’ Code of Ethics states that journalists should “give voice to the voiceless.” It was a powerful reminder that part of Scuba Diving’s mission ought to be speaking up for the creatures and marine habitats we love, and giving them a voice.
BY PATRICIA WUEST EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY Art Director Monica Rodriguez Staff Photographer Jon Whittle
SALES Vice President, Managing Director Glenn Sandridge glenn.sandridge@bonniercorp.com Associate Publisher Jeff Mondle 760-419-5898; jeff.mondle@bonniercorp.com Associate Publisher David Benz 850-261-1355; david.benz@bonniercorp.com Territory Manager Linda Sue Dingel 407-913-4945; lindasue.dingel@bonniercorp.com Detroit Advertising Director Jeff Roberge Advertising Sales Manager Lauren Brown 407-571-4914; lauren.brown@bonniercorp.com
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FOLLOWING
How fishy is Oman? “Super fishy,” says deputy editor Mary Frances Emmons. “Indo fishy. Solomon Islands fishy.” Learn more about diving the Arabian Sea on page 54, at scubadiving.com or on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram at Scuba Diving Magazine and @scubadivingmag.
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VIEWS FROM THE BLUE
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Scuba Diving (ISSN 1553-7919) is published 10 times per year (J/F, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, S/O, Nov and Dec) by Bonnier Corp., 460 N. Orlando Ave., Suite 200, Winter Park, FL 32789. Vol. 27, No. 6, July 2018. Periodicals postage paid in Winter Park, FL, and additional offices. Subscription rate for one year (10 issues): U.S. $21.97; Canada $30.97; all other foreign countries $39.97. U.S. funds only. Contents copyright 2018 by Bonnier Corp. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Scuba Diving, P.O. 6364, Harlan, IA 51593-1864. CANADA POST: Publications Mail Agreement Number: 40612608. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: IMEX, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2. For subscription questions, email: SCDcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com.
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OUT OF THE BLUE: DISCOVER THE WORLD BELOW a 13 PILLARS OF THE REEF 14 SHARKY SEAS 16 TAKE A DEEP BREATH
MATTHEW MEIER
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A BUMPY RIDE This is a sight seen by only a few divers each year: the wreck of a Vought F4U Corsair fighter plane off the coast of Parara in the Solomon Islands. Exposure to the open ocean and accompanying wind and waves — along with its depth outside recreational limits — make this dive tricky to navigate.
Protecting our environment is everyone’s kuleana (or responsibility). It is what we need to do, not only for future generations — our own lives are at risk if we don’t start now.” SEA HERO: JEFF AND TERI LEICHER PAGE 12
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SRPA21 | www.SeikoUSA.com
YEAR CERTIFIED
Jeff, 1973; Teri, 1978 AGE WHEN CERTIFIED
Jeff, 19; Teri, 22 C E R T I F I C AT I O N L E V E L
Both are PADI MSDT Instructors. WORDS TO LIVE BY
“I like to leave a place a little better than I found it.”
Sea Hero
JEFF AND TERI LEICHER Protecting Hawaii’s precious reefs from anchors and more
COURTESY JEFF AND TERI LEICHER
What’s your biggest challenge? JL: Funding. Each mooring installation costs around $1,500 just in hardware,
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What’s been the greatest challenge? JL: Although the state believes in protecting coral reefs, the rules and laws that pertain to legally installing a mooring are a bureaucratic nightmare. It can take three to 10 years to obtain a permit. TL: Since 1986, I have been a liaison between Malama Kai Foundation and Hawaii’s Department of Land and Natural Resources. [Created to support the mooring project, MKF raises funds and implements projects to conserve Hawaii’s marine resources.] This involves legislating for funding, traveling statewide for hearings, and helping to push paperwork through state and federal agencies. Many dive and snorkel operators, as well as island residents and visitors, have come together statewide to support day-use moorings. It is frustrating that the process takes so long, but the reward makes it worthwhile. It really does take a village to make a mooring happen.
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Tell us about the origins of Hawaii’s day-use mooring buoys. Jeff Leicher: Teri and I moved from Oahu to Kona in 1982 and immediately noticed how much healthier the reefs were compared with the more heavily used reefs on Oahu. Although there were only about three small dive companies using the Kona sites, it was obvious this was going to grow. We asked Teri’s father, George A. Wilkins, what it would take — legally and technically — to install moorings. George was a marine scientist with the University of Hawaii Department of Geophysics, and he knew of a method of drilling into the seafloor and cementing permanent anchors. Partnering with the university and the state, we began working on getting permits to allow us to install the first
46 buoys along the Kona coast. Teri Leicher: The moorings have been hugely successful, and the program has since expanded to include well over 200 dive sites statewide.
EXP
eff and Teri Leicher share a desire to make the world a better place by doing what you can, where you can. The couple, who owns Jack’s Diving Locker on the Big Island of Hawaii, have been instrumental in establishing mooring buoys throughout the state that protect Hawaii’s coral from boat-anchor strikes. Whether lobbying governments for permission, raising funds or heading underwater with a jackhammer, the Leichers don’t shrink from getting their hands wet in any way that will solve the problem.
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People of action, devoted to protecting the planet’s oceans and marine life through conservation, technology or by simply helping others. If you spot a Sea Hero, join Scuba Diving, Seiko and the 2018 Sea Heroes program by nominating him or her at scubadiving .com/seaheroes
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even with the work done by volunteers. Then there’s the enormous task of maintaining moorings so they’re safe. Most of the money has come from donations by generous visiting divers. We hope and believe that the state will begin to establish carrying capacities for our underwater resources, limit use by granting (or withholding) permits, and provide sufficient moorings and maintenance to accommodate those users without the need for dropping anchors. Coral has enough threats to worry about — climate change, sunscreen, etc. — without having to survive a carelessly thrown anchor. And your most satisfying moment? JL: In the early days, while awaiting a permit, we drilled 92 holes after receiving a verbal go-ahead. (Lesson: Get everything in writing.) We were threatened with a $92,000 fine and potential jail time. At a public hearing before the state land board, Jerry Garcia — a diver, great friend and leader of the Grateful Dead — testified as a “typical diving tourist” and encouraged the state to “make yourselves
Jeff Leicher works an underwater drill in preparation for installing a mooring buoy on the Kona coast in the late 1980s.
look good and approve this thing.” The news cameras were rolling, and within a few days, we had our permit. At the same hearing, the head of the state DLNR offered to pay the fine if one was assessed, and a state representative claimed she had drilled the holes, since she was immune from prosecution. We left the hearing with a huge burden lifted.
How can divers help? JL: To learn more about the program or to make a donation, visit malamakai.org. Anyone can adopt a buoy. TL: Protecting our environment is everyone’s kuleana (or responsibility). It’s what we need to do, not only for future generations — our own lives are at risk if we don’t start now. No matter where you live, get involved with some sort of initiative to protect our planet. Start with recycling in your own home, then branch out. JL: If you are diving somewhere such as Bonaire, where a park fee is charged, and that fee goes to pay for mooring maintenance, pay it happily and proudly. They are protecting what you have come to enjoy. Aloha!
Each Sea Hero featured in Scuba Diving receives a Seiko Prospex Automatic SRPC07 watch worth $525. For our December issue, judges select a Sea Hero of the Year, who receives a $5,000 cash award from Seiko to further his or her work. Nominate a sea hero at scubadiving.com/seaheroes.
Live in the Moment. See more at saltlife.com Pro Photographer, Shawn Jackson, shooting in his SLX UVapor Performance Shirt and Aquatrunk Boardshorts with Vapor Stretch fabric.
CORAL SPOTTER
DENDROGYRA CYLINDRUS (PILLAR CORAL) Sharpen your ID skills for the most intriguing coral species BY NICOLE HELGASON
Q Dendrogyra cylindrus is one of the rarest corals in the Caribbean and is listed as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act. Dendrogyra colonies grow into pillars, spires or columns that can reach more than 6 feet tall — no wonder the common name for this coral is the Caribbean pillar coral.
NICOLE HELGASON
Q One of the reasons Dendrogyra is so rare is that, in 30 years, very few — if any — juvenile colonies have been recorded. In 2015, Dr. Kristen Marhaver from the CARMABI institute in Curaçao observed spawning behavior and was able to successfully raise juvenile Dendrogyra cylindrus corals in a lab. Q Dendrogyra is found in flat, sheltered locations, ranging from the southern tip of
Florida down to Venezuela and Panama. Colonies have encrusting bases that spread across rocks, with tall spires growing upward from the base. Pillar corals are found in shallow reef habitats full of sunlight. They can be found in a current or nearshore, where waves stir up nutrients in the water. It is uncommon to find a pillar coral past 80 feet. Q The skeleton of Dendrogyra has meandering valleys similar to the Meandrina (colonial stony) and Colpophyllia (boulder brain) corals. During the day, polyps are commonly extended to catch and feed on zooplankton in the water column, giving Dendrogyra a fuzzy appearance. When the polyps are retracted, the colony has a mazelike appearance and skeletal features.
AUSTRALIA
CORAL SEA, GREAT BARRIER REEF, FAR NORTHERN REEFS
spiritoffreedom.com.au
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HOLY COW! CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA Broadnose sevengill sharks — Notorynchus cepedianus — are known by some as cow sharks, maybe for their plodding, methodical way of moving through shallow coastal waters. This allows divers in hot spots such as South Africa to really take in the majesty of these fish: Sevengills are closely related to ancient sharks that thrived around 300 million years ago. Keep a keen eye out in cold-water habitats such as this bull kelp forest. While most sharks have five gill slits, broadnose sevengills stand out. PHOTO BY TOBIAS FRIEDRICH
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9,816 Depth (in feet) of the deepest known dive by a Cuvier’s beaked whale, nine times the depth of the Guinness World Record for the deepest scuba dive in seawater
90 Approximate number of minutes a sperm whale can hold its breath underwater, while beaked whales can go without a breath for nearly two hours
1,300
A DEEP BREATH A collapsed lung helps cetaceans dive to great depths and avoid the bends BY MELISSA GASKILL
eaked whales can spend two hours beneath the surface. Dolphins descend down to 1,000 feet and routinely make as many as 20 dives in a row to 300 feet. Good luck finding that type of profile on a dive table. So, how do these mammals avoid getting hit with decompression sickness? Special lung architecture helps protect them from the bends, according to a study by researchers at Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and Spain’s Fundacion Oceanografic. When air-breathing animals dive underwater, increasing pressure causes nitrogen bubbles to collect in the bloodstream and tissue.
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Ascending slowly allows nitrogen to return to the lungs and be exhaled. Ascend too fast, and nitrogen bubbles don’t have time to diffuse back into the lungs. Instead, they begin to expand in blood and tissues, causing pain and damage — DCS, or the bends. Under deep-sea pressure, the lungs of cetaceans — whales, dolphins and porpoises — create two different regions, one filled with air and one collapsed. This creates a gradient in the amount of blood flow and gas exchange, taking advantage of differences in solubility of oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen. “These animals have the ability to change that rate,” says biologist Michael Moore,
senior scientist at WHOI and a study co-author. “They can manipulate the gradient to favor conditions that transfer oxygen and carbon dioxide but not nitrogen, so as not to increase the risk of DCS. Blood flowing mainly through the compressed region allows absorption of some oxygen while minimizing or preventing the exchange of nitrogen.” The scientists observed this phenomenon by inflating the lungs from different animals and putting them in a hyperbaric water chamber to simulate dives to different depths. “We compared dolphin, seal and pig lungs, and found dramatic differences,” says Moore. “Terrestrial mammals just don’t have the anatomical and functional adaptations that marine mammals do.” Marine mammals are not completely immune to DCS, however. Scientists have detected decompression gas bubbles in seals and dolphins
that drowned at depth in gill nets. Fourteen dead whales in a 2002 stranding event linked to U.S. Navy sonar exercises had gas bubbles in their tissues — a sign of DCS. “We know that loud noises are stressful for marine animals,” says Moore. “It can cause a fight-or-flight response, increasing heart rate and vascular dilation. That messes with this protective mechanism — with the way the animal has programmed its dive — and increases absorption of nitrogen in blood.” The research doesn’t explain why DCS might cause a cetacean to beach, says co-author Andreas Fahlman. “But just knowing that stress can cause failure of this adaptation means we might find ways to mitigate it,” he says. “The solution could be as simple as starting sonar at low levels so the animals don’t freak out, then increasing levels gradually to give them a chance to move away.”
SHANE GROSS
Approximate capacity of a blue whale’s lungs (in gallons), 800 times larger than that of a human
Diamond Reef, February 2018.
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ADVENTURE. IT’S IN OUR NATURE.
Dive beneath crystal blue waves. Hike through a jungle canopy. Kayak around a volcano. Make friends with monkeys. Whether it’s thrills or simply new experiences you seek, Costa Rica can take you straight to them. VisitCostaRica.com
TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR SAFETY, SKILLS AND BOTTOM TIME t 20 THE LAST GASP 22 SEA LION IN LOVE 26 RAISE YOUR PROFILE
BETH WATSON
“ With thousands of islands, the Philippines offers photographers a huge variety of subjects, from the thresher sharks of Malapascua to the World War II wrecks of Palawan. But among the most appealing are the country’s little creatures, including clown anemonefish such as this one found darting about its green-and-purple home off Puerto Galera. Learn more about nailing your macro shots on page 24.
Greg stayed within the limits of his computer. He should have been fine, right? Wrong. Computers have revolutionized diving, but they are simply mathematical algorithms.” LESSONS FOR LIFE PAGE 28
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Schott, a Pennsylvania-based technical and CCR instructor, cave enthusiast, and Emmy Award-winning underwater cinematographer. “No matter what type of dive you’re attempting, whether it is recreational or technical, and no matter what your experience or level of certification, it can happen to anyone.” Fortunately, many of these accidents can be prevented. Through advanced training, regular equipment maintenance and mindful discipline, divers can increase their odds of avoiding — and surviving — an out-of-air emergency. “My grandfather used to tell me the best way to deal with a problem is to not have it in the first place,” says Edd Sorenson of Cave Adventurers in Marianna, Florida, a technical and rebreather instructor who also is a highly experienced cave search-and-rescue expert. “At first that sounded really stupid, but now I use it in every one of my classes.” Consider this expert advice to minimize your risk of running out of air underwater.
DI V E
HACKS
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ERIC MICHAEL is a former editor-in-chief of both Scuba Diving and Sport Diver magazines, a veteran ScubaLab test-team diver, and author of Dive Hacks since 2015.
BREATHLESS Out-of-air emergencies are the most common cause of diving fatalities; here’s how to avoid catastrophe BY ERIC MICHAEL
unning out of air underwater is a diver’s worst nightmare. You draw on your second stage, expecting that sweet, lung-satisfying sip of air — and get nothing. It’s a terrifying emergency that none of us should have to experience. However, according to Divers Alert Network, one of the world’s foremost centers for research on underwater emergencies and injuries, running out of breathing gas is the most common dive incident, and the No. 1 cause of diving fatalities. The sources of out-of-air emergencies are numerous and varied. Common complacency or too much task-loading can
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distract a diver from monitoring his or her gas supply until it reaches a dangerously low level. Malfunctioning equipment, such as regulators, hoses and O-rings, can create disastrous complications at depth. Tests have shown that a free-flowing regulator or ruptured hose can drain an 80-cubic-inch cylinder in less than three minutes, depending on depth. Typically, divers have precious little time to deal with this situation before it turns dire. All too often, they become a statistic. “At least once a year I see somebody run out of air underwater,” says Becky Kagan
PAY CLOSE ATTENTION Out-of-air emergencies can occur due to simple negligence. Skipping a predive buddy check, ignoring obvious equipment issues or forgetting to turn on your air before you drop can all lead to disaster. Schott and Sorenson preach situational awareness. “You see too many times people getting into currents, diving a little deeper than they’re used to, or being distracted with a camera and getting in trouble,” Schott says. “One of the biggest things I reinforce with my students is being self-aware, and always watching your gauges.” When divers suffer a lack of situational awareness and something bad happens, stress can escalate quickly — and turn deadly. “When you’re under stress, you can experience what’s called cognitive narrowing — you don’t have that big-picture thinking anymore,” Sorenson says. “We had an incident in a cave where the diver had three functioning regulators and three cylinders filled with more than 300 cubic feet of gas, but his brain told him he was out of gas. With cognitive narrowing, he just panicked and attacked his buddy.” Being mindful of your surroundings and situation can save lives — especially yours.
FROM TOP: BILL DOSTER; JON WHITTLE; COURTESY VINDICATOR. OPPOSITE: MAFELIPE/ISTOCKPHOTO
LEARN TO DEAL As divers, we train to deal with common emergencies. But too often, we let those skills grow rusty. By practicing the protocols you’ve learned to manage outof-air emergencies, you’ll be far better prepared if it happens to you. “Instead of reacting, many divers tend to freeze or panic,” Schott says. “Those situations could be avoided if people practiced skills more often. It’s a great idea to go out with your dive buddy and do emergency drills so you can react faster.” “Most divers probably haven’t practiced air-sharing techniques since they finished their open-water class,” Sorenson says. “Nobody wants to go out and do a work dive, but there’s always that three-minute safety stop to practice. You’ve got to be there anyway, why not do something that could one day help save your life or that of your friend?” Sorenson also advises never to skip a predive buddy check, and focus particular attention on pre-breathing all of your air sources. In addition, learning hand signals that identify potential air-supply hazards is a smart prevention method. “For cave diving, we have an entire set of hand signals” to identify potential gas emergencies, he says. “One of them is placing your index finger above your thumb and lightly moving up and down to indicate to your buddy that they have bubbles coming out of a hose or other piece of equipment. If something on my setup is bubbling that I can’t see but you can, that’s something I need to know.” DOUBLE DOWN ON REDUNDANCY For technical divers, redundant systems are fundamental. If an air source malfunctions, having a backup will save your life. Recreational divers should consider this safety net as well. “Carrying a pony bottle just for emergencies, especially on deeper dives,
can be a really good option,” Schott says. “Having more gas in case you have a problem and aren’t close enough to your buddy can really make a difference in an out-of-air emergency.” For divers considering adding an alternate air supply to their kit, Schott recommends at least a 19-cubic-foot cylinder that can be strapped to a primary tank, with the second stage arranged around the neck on a necklace. “Diving twin cylinders or learning to dive sidemount offers a lot of advantages for your safety,” says Sorenson. “Diving an air-integrated computer is nice, to have that pressure data right there on your wrist, but divers should also have an analog pressure gauge as a backup.” KNOW YOUR SAC RATE Beyond equipment issues, some out-ofair emergencies are just that — the diver simply used all of his gas supply before the end of the dive. Poor planning is typically the cause, so learning to calculate your surface air consumption (SAC) rate — and using it to plan your dives — can help prevent dangerous mistakes. “I really encourage people to learn how to calculate their SAC rate so they can figure out how much air they’re going to need to do a certain dive, while allowing for unexpected challenges that might force them to use more gas than normal,” Schott says. “You might be surprised that what an 80-cubic-foot cylinder holds is just not enough gas.” “Everybody should know how to calculate their SAC rate because if you’re diving in the ocean, there can be currents and other factors that will affect the amount of gas you’re consuming,” Sorenson says. “If you do it properly, it’s a simple calculation. I teach it to all my cave students, and I have them do it on each and every dive. It builds selfconfidence and makes for safer diving.”
CALCULATING YOUR CONSUMPTION To increase the precision of your dive plan, learn to figure out how many cubic feet of air per minute you typically consume. Establish a base consumption figure with a test run of 33 feet for 10 minutes (five minutes out and five minutes back)
at your normal dive pace. Then plug your data into this equation: SAC = (1-P2/P1) x Vf/Aa/Tm P1 = pressure in psi at beginning of test dive P2 = pressure in psi at end of test dive
Vf = volume of air in cylinder in cubic feet (divide the actual pressure by the full pressure, and multiply by the volume in cubic feet of a full tank) Aa = pressure in absolute atmospheres Tm = time of dive in minutes Want more explanation? Go to scubadiving.com/sac.
IN THE BAG Tools to help you breathe easier
S PA R E A I R
$320 ($340 for nitrox); spareair.com For emergency bailouts, this compact bottle-and-regulator combo can provide enough gas to get to the surface from a shallow depth. It’s available in 1.7 and 3 cubic feet, is nitrox-capable, and can be filled from a primary cylinder.
A Q U A L U N G I 750 T C
$999; aqualung.com Air-integrated computers serve up tankpressure info in a quick and convenient display. The i750TC boasts a full-color OLED screen and Bluetooth smart wireless connectivity for tank-transmitter pairing and mobile-device sharing.
V I N D I C AT O R S C U B A TA N K VA LV E S A F E T Y H A N D L E
$15.89; vindicator-safetyhandle.myshopify.com This smart valve-handle replacement uses a simple red-for-closed, greenfor-open indicator system that takes the guesswork out of your air supply. It’s made from durable materials and is designed to fit a wide range of valves.
S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 21
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What It’s Like
TO SNUGGLE WITH A SEA LION BY BOB FRIEL
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t was a science expedition: critter geeks collecting data in the chilly waters off Hornby Island, British Columbia. But sometimes, when you’re far from home, relationships can blossom unexpectedly. I noticed her right away. Very cute. Dark, playful eyes. She was shy at first, but once she realized we had many shared interests, she became forward to the point of, “Whoa, babe, slow down. Let’s get to know each other.” (I’m old-school.) First came a fin tug. I turned and there she was, long golden body executing a graceful roll. Next, a bite on my thigh. Steller sea lions are basically underwater grizzlies, with the same gnarly canines, only sea lions grow to more than twice the size. But this was just a love nibble. My buddy and I were mobbed. They bit hoses, undid wristbands, tugged straps, twisted my video lights, and mouthed us all over.
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It was wonderful, truly an amazing encounter. But my girl was extra special. She spent the whole dive rubbing up and down my drysuit and tickling herself on my fins. When my bottom time was up, she had other plans. She charged down from the surface, barreled me over and held me down. I had 700 psi left, so I just laid back and took a shaky selfie of us as she spun around on top of me. When she went up for air, I swam for the boat. I didn’t get there. The fourth time she pinned me, I figured that was it. We were destined to haul out together and eat herring happily ever after. During her next break for a breath, though, I made it to the anchor line. Back on board, I told a pinniped expert about my new sea lion lady friend. “What makes you think it was a female?” he asked. It doesn’t matter. It was still special.
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BRENT DURAND is a professional underwater photographer, writer and workshop leader. View his images on social media or at brentdurand.com.
ENGAGING MACRO COMPOSITION Turn ordinary snapshots into stellar macro portraits BY BRENT DURAND
he world of macro photography is exploding with creativity in all corners of the globe. New techniques, tools and tricks are helping photographers produce images that seem out of this world. But look closely at any of these images, and you’ll notice each one is built on a foundation of macro-composition basics.
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camera or connecting with a secondary subject. Eye contact also ensures a face-forward composition, which is much more engaging than a top-down or fish-tail shot.
Let’s take a closer look at some tips to bring your composition to the next level. 1 Get Close to the Subject The best macro photos often contain a subject filling the image frame. To achieve this, you must continue to move closer to the subject until it takes up most of the space in the LCD screen or viewfinder. A macro wet lens will help achieve this with the smallest subjects. Two positive side effects are that the image will contain more depth and will appear crisper since you are shooting through less water. 2 Capture Eye Contact Strong eye contact establishes an immediate connection between the viewer and the subject. If your subject has eyes, try to compose the shot so both eyes are in focus and looking toward the camera lens. If you’re shooting from the side, ensure the visible eye is looking toward the
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3 Position Subjects to Emphasize Features There is no right or wrong in positioning your subject, but the goal should be to choose an angle that includes the eyes and highlights interesting features. Techniques such as the rule of thirds and three-quarters angle of view will help to orient these features in the best portions of the frame. 4 Shoot Several Variations This is for two reasons. Subtle changes in composition can often create a much more pleasing image, and sometimes the composition you think will be the best is eclipsed by one of the variations. The second reason is that we can’t see every flaw in the LCD screen, including precise focus, backscatter and errant particulate. Shooting several variations ensures you have a backup for unintended flaws in the main photo. Review these tips right before your next macro dive so they’re fresh when you spot that perfect macro subject.
PHOTO GEAR BAG Tools to help you get the shot
AOI UCL-09 +12.5
$320; aoi-uw.com A macro wet lens that produces very sharp images, the UCL-09 is a bit larger, making it a great option for mirrorless and DSLR shooters interested in a strong diopter for super-macro subjects.
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Use Code: BON18
Dive Fish Relax
NAUTICAM CMC-2
FROM TOP: COURTESY AOI LIMITED; COURTESY NAUTICAM; COURTESY SEALIFE. OPPOSITE: BRENT DURAND
$290; nauticam.com This compact macro converter is specifically designed for use with popular compact cameras, delivering tack-sharp images in a light and compact body. The lens is optimized for more-accurate autofocus performance than stronger lenses can offer.
SEALIFE DC-SERIES SUPER-MACRO LENS
$129; sealife-cameras.com This wet lens can be applied in a snap to a DC-series SeaLife camera, but it also comes with an adapter to fit 67 mm housings. With plus-10 magnification and broadband anti-reflective coating, this lens offers sharp magnification at an affordable price.
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HIGHER PROFILE Lightroom greatly expands easy-to-use camera profiles BY ERIN QUIGLEY
n my last column, “What’s Wrong with This Image? Mastering a Develop Module Workflow,” I emphasized the importance of selecting a camera profile early in the editing process. Lightroom has long offered camera profiles to emulate in-camera picture styles, but until recently they were hidden away in the Camera Calibration panel at the bottom of the panel stack. Few people knew they existed, or how to use them. Finally, as of Lightroom’s April 2018 release, profiles have gained rock-star status, moving to the top of the Basic panel as a greatly expanded set of raw and creative profiles, displayed in a matrix of easy-to-use preview buttons.
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WHAT IS A CAMERA PROFILE? In the digital-imaging universe, the term profile has many meanings. Printers, displays, color and working spaces all have profiles. In Lightroom, profiles convert raw camera information into specific “looks” that leave your slider values untouched but change the appearance of your raw photo. Without a profile, raw data can’t be displayed as a visible image. Adobe builds profiles for nearly every camera make and model its software supports, incorporating deep imaging science that looks at how the camera’s otherwise colorblind sensor interprets color and contrast. Profiles
utilize information about the specific sensitivity of each camera’s sensor in order to emulate its behavior in different lighting conditions and at different ISO values, and then translate the digital data into viewable images. For non-raw photos, such as JPEGs, TIFFs or PSDs, a profile isn’t needed to display the image because an interpretation of the data has already been baked in by the camera, or by an external software application like Photoshop. For these photos, profiles can be used for creative purposes, similar to how an Instagram filter changes the look and impact of a picture. BROWSING AND APPLYING PROFILES In Lightroom Classic, the Profile pop-up is found at the top of the Develop Basic panel. To peruse the full menu of profile previews, click the four-square icon in the upper right of the Basic panel to open the Profile Browser. If the thumbnails are too small to view clearly, roll the cursor on top of
Fig. 1
PROFILES FOR RAW PHOTOS There are two main categories of profiles: camera profiles and creative profiles. Adobe Raw and Camera Matching profiles are available for raw photos only. Adobe Raw Profiles The previous default profile, Adobe Standard, was applied to all raw images at import in an effort to make photos from different cameras look as similar as possible. Six new Adobe raw profiles have been added, including the current default, Adobe Color, which adds more contrast and saturation, and more pop to warm colors. Adobe Monochrome is designed to be a better starting point for black-and-white photos, with improved tonal separation.
any profile thumbnail or name to display the profile on the main image preview. Once you’ve decided on a profile, click on its thumbnail to apply it, and click the Close button at the top right of the panel to return to the regular Develop panels. You can also doubleclick the profile thumbnail to apply it and close the browser at the same time. If you find yourself using the same profile again and again, click on the tiny star icon in the upper right corner of the icon to set it as a favorite. Favorites are grouped into the Favorites folder in the Profiles Browser, but more important, are added to the main profile drop-down menu, which saves you from having to open the Profile Browser each time you want to switch profiles. Fig. 2
Adobe Portrait is optimized for a wide gamut of skin tones, which isn’t necessarily important for underwater shooters, but it has less contrast than Adobe Color, which might help to hold detail in the Highlights and Shadows.
Modern profiles represent photographic trends.
current
Vintage profiles are designed to look more like film. Artistic profiles are designed to be more edgy, with stronger color shifts. B&W profiles are optimized for highimpact black-and-white work, offering a range of color-channel mixes and tonal adjustments. The effect of Creative profiles can be faded or exaggerated using the Amount slider at the top of the Profile Browser panel or Basic panel. An amount of 100 applies the original intended effect. Moving the slider to the left reduces the effect of the profile, and moving it to the right exaggerates the effect. Fig. 3
Adobe Neutral reduces contrast and color boosts to create a very flat starting point but gives you more editing headroom than other profiles. It’s ideal for photos with tricky blues and gradients. Adobe Landscape disregards warm tones and enhances blues and greens. Adobe Vivid is the nuclear option. It’s usually super saturated, not a starting point for underwater images. Camera Matching Profiles Camera profiles are designed to emulate your camera JPEG. Choose one of these if you liked the image you saw on the back of the camera.
ERIN QUIGLEY
special effects or a certain “look.” Some of them use 3D look-up tables (LUTs), which allow them to create adjustments that would not be possible using the sliders available in the Develop module.
Legacy Profiles The Legacy Profiles folder contains black-and-white versions of old profiles meant to maintain compatibility with edits done in previous versions of Lightroom. PROFILES FOR ALL FILES Creative profiles are designed to create
PRO TIP If an image’s exposure and color are within an acceptable range, then select a profile right off the bat. If the photo is very dark, very bright or has a noticeable color cast, then fi x those problems first in order to clearly see the effect of various profiles.
ERIN QUIGLEY is an Adobe ACEcertified consultant and awardwinning shooter. Goaskerin.com provides tutorials and instruction for underwater photographers.
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OVER THE LIMIT Your dive computer really doesn’t know anything about you BY ERIC DOUGLAS
very year during the Florida-lobster mini season, Greg got bug fever. He had already invited friends and family over for a cookout the next day, so he needed to catch his limit — he wanted to wow them with his lobster grilling. He wasn’t having much luck finding good locations with legal-size lobster, though. That meant he had
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to keep diving. He wasn’t going to let everyone down. THE DIVER Greg was 37 years old and dived nearly every weekend. He was in good shape and didn’t take any medications. He was experienced, with more than 10 years since his certification.
THE DIVES Over a 14-hour period, Greg made six dives from a private boat with a couple of buddies. He claimed to be using a 32 percent nitrox mix on all of them and used a dive computer to track his status. His dive series included: 1) 85 feet of seawater (fsw) for 50 minutes; 2) 75 fsw for 50 minutes; 3) 75 fsw for 35 minutes; 4) 70 fsw for 50 minutes; 5) 85 fsw for 50 minutes; and 6) 70 fsw for 50 minutes. Overall, the divers recorded four hours and 45 minutes of bottom time throughout the day, but did not record their surface intervals. Instead, they followed their computer's recommendations. From the beginning of the first dive to the end of the last, they spent approximately nine hours and 15 minutes out of the
ILLUSTRATION: CARLO GIAMBARRESI
LESSONS
FOR
LIFE
TRA I N
ERIC DOUGLAS has been a dive instructor, medic, and author on scuba safety and adventure. Visit his website at booksbyeric.com.
water. Greg was finally done for the day and ascended to the surface for the last time at 10 p.m. THE ACCIDENT About a half an hour after Greg and his buddies made it back to the dock, he noticed a pain in his upper left arm. The pain was in both his biceps and triceps; he described it as three out of 10, with 10 being the worst pain imaginable. He thought it was probably just muscle strain from carrying tanks and his dive equipment. The pain persisted for another half an hour, and Greg realized there might be a bigger problem. He began breathing 100 percent oxygen using a demand valve, and a friend drove him to a local hospital. The hospital happened to have a hyperbaric chamber. The treating physician conducted a neurological assessment and didn’t find any problems, but the pain continued. Greg told the doctor that the pain was different than anything he had ever felt before. There was no way he could move or hold his arm that made it feel any better, or worse. The doctor gave Greg a U.S. Navy Treatment Table 6. Two and a half hours after Greg first noticed the symptoms, he entered the hyperbaric chamber. When the nearly five-hour treatment ended, Greg’s pain was almost gone. He did have a slight burning feeling in his chest that was new, but that was attributed to the exposure to high concentrations of oxygen. It relieved itself later that day. Greg’s doctor told him to wait six weeks before returning to diving. The residual arm pain lessened over a few days, and a week later, Greg realized it was gone. He has since returned to diving, although now he doesn’t do as many dives in a single day as he did the day he was hurt. ANALYSIS Greg made an aggressive series of dives, but he stayed within the limits of his dive computer. He should have been fine, right? Wrong. Dive computers are wonderful tools that have revolutionized the way we dive, giving us more bottom time and making it easier to plan multiple dives in a single day. However, they are simply mathematical algorithms, just like dive tables. The advantage they give is they recalculate your depth and time on a regular basis, essentially giving you a custom dive table every minute or so.
The downside to this is they cut off the built-in safety margin that square dive profiles on a dive table provided. Most dive computers also do not analyze your heart rate, hydration level, fitness level, accumulated blood gases in your body, or any of the other factors that could contribute to decompression illness. Following them blindly, or diving aggressively using a computer, still leaves the possibility of a diving-related injury. As a side note, after his treatment, Greg admitted he wasn’t sure what his breathing-gas mix had been on the day of his injury. He dived as if he were on a 32 percent nitrox mix, but he wasn’t analyzing each tank before each dive, so he wasn’t sure how much nitrogen he was in fact inhaling. That is a serious mistake. Nitrox can give divers additional bottom time on
and rested between each one. Diving itself causes a diver to become dehydrated through immersion diuresis. In short, water pressure forces blood in your extremities into your body core. Your kidneys recognize that you have too much fluid in your body and choose to eliminate it. This is why you always have to urinate when you dive. With that much time on a boat while diving, it would take a conscious effort for Greg to drink enough fluids to not be dehydrated. On the upside, Greg did one thing exactly as he should have. He realized he had a pain in his arm that didn’t make sense and didn’t feel like anything he had ever felt before. It didn’t change no matter how he moved his arm. Within a half an hour of noting the pain, he was breathing 100 percent oxygen and heading to the hospital. Within two and a half hours,
“Dive computers also do not analyze your heart rate, hydration level, fitness level, accumulated blood gases in your body, or any of the other factors that could contribute to decompression illness.” every dive because they are absorbing less nitrogen with each breath. Greg put himself at risk by not analyzing the tanks. If they were filled with air, or a lower oxygen mixture, he was diving beyond the limits of his breathing gas. If they happened to be filled with a higher concentration of oxygen, he risked the possibility of an oxygen seizure. Greg likely had a case of what is called Decompression Illness (DCI) Type 1 or Pain-Only DCI. DCI is a blanket term that includes Type 1, Type 2 Neurological DCI, and Arterial Gas Embolism. Pain-Only DCI exhibits as pain in the body, typically in the extremities and generally in joints like shoulders and elbows, that you can’t otherwise explain. It doesn’t change no matter how you move the extremity. The doctor’s neurological assessment indicated there was no problem, so nitrogen-gas bubbles had not formed against a nerve, which would have caused numbness or tingling. In the worst cases, neurological symptoms can cause paralysis or death. It isn’t a definitive cause of decompression illness, but most experts agree that dehydration is likely a contributing factor. Greg spent 14 hours on the water on a boat diving. He made six dives
he was entering a hyperbaric chamber for treatment. Statistics from Divers Alert Network say that the average wait time between symptom onset and treatment is closer to 17 hours. Most divers in this same situation would have chosen to wait until the morning to see if the pain was still there before seeking help. Greg’s decision to seek help immediately likely helped with the rapid resolution of the problem. While still treatable the next morning, more insult to the body tissues would have happened, and the injury would have been harder to treat.
LESSONS FOR LIFE Q Just because your dive computer says
you can make the dive doesn’t mean you should. Even the most sophisticated model is simply a mathematical model. Use common sense and plan your dives. Q Stay hydrated while diving. Q Understand the signs and symptoms of decompression illness and alert others immediately if you have cause for concern. Q Seek training in diving first aid such as oxygen use.
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SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL ADVERTISING
If an individual can answer all of these questions with reasonable accuracy, you can list their LOR as “alert and oriented to person, place, time, and event,” which is frequently abbreviated to “A+Ox4.” If a person is unconscious, or cannot otherwise respond to these questions, you can further assess their LOR by determining if they are responsive to verbal or painful stimuli. A common scale used to describe a person’s mental status is the AVPU scale. AVPU is an acronym that stands for “alert, verbal, painful, unresponsive.” An individual who responds to your initial questions can be considered awake, and given an “A” on the AVPU scale. If the person does not respond to commands but reacts to you raising your voice, they’d be given a “V” for verbal stimulation. Response to a firm rub on the back of the hand or a pinch on the upper arm would denote a “P,” and a
ASK
DA N
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ASK DAN What are the fundamentals of assessing vital signs?
Assess a pulse by placing two fingers gently on either the carotid artery (found lateral to the trachea), or on a patient’s wrist just beneath the base of their thumb.
BY DIVERS ALERT NETWORK
ou’ll rarely get a warning before witnessing a medical emergency, and no matter what level of diver you are, it’s your responsibility to know how to respond to an emergency at a dive site. Being trained and willing to help an injured diver or bystander can make an enormous difference in the outcome of their injuries, and even save lives. The ability to assess vital signs is fundamental in firstaid training. Accurate measurements of vital signs can not only provide EMS personnel with valuable information about the patient’s condition, but can also expedite needed medical interventions and provide a timeline of injury progression for healthcare providers. How well do you know how to assess basic vital signs?
Y
TIME Time is the fundamental metric in all emergency responses. Regularly
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recording the patient’s condition and the corresponding time is vital to creating an accurate timeline of patient symptoms. These timelines can be used to determine whether a patient’s condition is worsening and help evaluate the need for greater care. Seriously ill patients should have their vital signs reassessed every few minutes, while patients who are stable may have their vitals checked hourly. LEVEL OF RESPONSIVENESS A patient’s level of responsiveness (LOR) can be one of the most revealing indicators of their well-being. LOR is typically assessed with four basic questions: What is your name? Where are we? What time is it? What happened?
complete lack of response would denote a “U” for unresponsive. Note that while this system of quantifying responsiveness might provide useful information to healthcare personnel, it is not likely to change the care that we as divers will provide — a confused or nonresponsive patient should always be treated as if they were seriously injured. PULSE Pulse can be a very effective indication of an individual’s wellness, especially if more than just the frequency of heart beats is measured. Assess a pulse by placing two fingers gently on either the carotid artery (found lateral to the trachea), or on a patient’s wrist just beneath the base of their thumb (this is a radial pulse). If you cannot find a pulse, first confirm the location of your fingers, then make sure you are not pressing too hard or too gently. Once you locate a pulse, count the number of beats in 15 seconds, then multiply by four — this will give you the
diver’s heart rate in beats per minute. Most healthy adults have a resting heart rate of between 60 and 100 beats per minute, although an elevated heart rate after injury, exercise or excitement is normal. Note not just the speed at which the heart beats but also the strength and regularity of the beat; these can be important factors in determining injury severity. RESPIRATION A body cannot survive for more than a few minutes without oxygen, and you must constantly monitor an injured diver’s respirations. Because many people will unintentionally alter their breathing if they know you are trying to count their breaths, begin counting respirations immediately after measuring a patient’s pulse and without announcing it. Pay close attention to the sound of the person’s breathing and listen for wheezing, gasping or labored breaths. These can indicate the existence of specific conditions such as asthma or pulmonary edema.
DIVE CONFIDENTLY. ALWAYS HAVE DAN WITH YOU.
WOUND CARE Most injuries we encounter while diving are minor and can be addressed with basic first aid. Control Bleeding If the wound appears to be within your scope of experience and training, control bleeding by applying pressure directly to the injured area. Absorbent materials such as gauze or rags can be helpful. Elevate the wound to help slow bleeding; if bleeding isn’t slowing after a few minutes, the wound requires immediate professional attention. Prevent Infection Clean the wound thoroughly — irrigate with clean water, remove any visible debris, and use an alcohol wipe or clean cloth with soap and water to scrub around the wound site. Dress and Bandage After a wound has been addressed and cleaned, it must be protected. Use an adhesive bandage or gauze and tape (or in a pinch, scraps of clean T-shirt material) to cover the wound and protect it from infection. The ocean is chock-full of bacteria, and even minor cuts and scrapes sustained while diving are likely to get infected. Watch for post-injury symptoms such as fever, red streaking, fatigue, or aches and pains — these are signs of possible infection.
You dive. You explore. You take risks others would never consider. And you do it confidently knowing DAN is with you. DAN membership benefits include: $100,000 Emergency Evacuation Coverage Access to the World’s Leading Dive Accident Insurance Emergency Medical Assistance, Including DAN’s 24-Hour Emergency Hotline Dive Safety Resources Alert Diver Magazine Plus, your DAN Membership helps support vital dive research and education to improve dive safety for both you and divers like you worldwide.
Explore with DAN @diversalertnetwork
Renew Today: DAN.org/MEMBERSHIP
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7KUHH JHQHUDWLRQV RI GLYHUV .LGV 6HD &DPS IXO¼ OOV a grandmother's dream to dive as a family
GIVE THEM A WEEK THEY WILL REMEMBER FOREVER Story by Vicki Singley Discovering Kids Sea Camp was the real gift to my family and I. My two adult sons Danny and Chris, are divers, and they convinced me, 25 years ago to become a PADI GIVXM½ IH HMZIV ;LIR XLI] married their wives Celenie and Stela, they also joined the adventures and became divers. Over the years, I had made taking dive trips with my sons
and their wives, a top priority for quality family time. ;LIR Q] KVERHOMHW GEQI along, much to my sadness the family-dive trips came to an end. Then one day as I was thumbing through Scuba Diving Magazine, dreaming of taking dive adventures with my grand kids, I discovered Kids Sea Camp. I immediately called and WLEVIH Q] ½ RH [MXL Q] WSRW and suggested we start taking family dive trips again. They were all for it, and in 2013, we were off SR SYV ½ VWX trip — to Palau Royal Resort and diving with Sam's Tours and Kids Sea Camp. The grandkids were 3, 7, 7 & 10. Benjamin, Sophia and Hunter, started SASY with Margo while at age 10
803 - 419 - 2556
Jackson joined the PADI Jr 3TIR ;EXIV HMZIV GPEWW ;I EHYPX OMHW JIPX PMOI [I LEH KSRI XS LIEZIR ;I enjoyed diving during the days while the kids had fun learning with other kids. It was absolutely PERFECT for everyone! There are times set, when adults and kids dive or snorkel together too. Because of owner Margo Peyton’s expertise, instructor
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training and perfect safety record with kids, she is provided a special waiver to dive in the ocean with PADI Seal Team kids age 8 & 9, all over the world. ;I LEZI XVEZIPIH [MXL /MHW Sea Camp to Fiji where the kids had run of the entire resort and while Benji was still in SASY, Hunter and Sophia advanced to the PADI Seal Team classes.
;I LEH PSXW SJ MRXIVEGXMSR with the local people, and everyone on staff could not have been more helpful, warm and hospitable. ;LIR [I [IVI PIEZMRK *MNM my grandkids were crying and hugging the very special people they had come to know and love. Hunter even said (while sobbing), “How can I possibly leave these people?” You know your grandkids have had a lifechanging experience when their emotional reactions are so intense, and they don't want to leave. In the summer of 2017, we traveled to Kids Sea Camp Philippines with Sea Explorers. My second grandson Hunter became a PADI Jr diver and joined Jackson diving with the other GIVXM½ IH OMHW ;I RS[ LEZI 3 generations of divers in our family, diving together. It seemed impossible to top Palau or Fiji, but Margo & Tom managed to do it yet again. As always.The Pura
Vida Homes resort was luxurious and the staff and service was nothing short of excellent. I had a torn ankle tendon prior to the trip and a divemaster was always right there at the ladder to help me take off my equipment and hand it up.The Banka boats were the coolest and most spacious dive boats I have ever been on. ;I EPP [IRX XS 3WPSF -WPERH where we swam and dove with EIGHT whale sharks!! An absolutely mind-blowing experience and a memory created that we, as a family, will never, ever forget. How many families get to have an experience like that? Each trip is better than the last. Kids Sea Camp sets the bar high with dive operators. Margo runs her trips with expert organization, safety and professionalism. I love the many interesting
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and fun outings, events and activities that are planned for for us to enjoy as a family out of the water. All of our trips have been, as the MasterCard commercial says, “priceless.” I know for absolute certainty that our next trip will be another amazing EHZIRXYVI ½ PPIH [MXL precious family time, diving, and unforgettable memories. Sophia and Benji are next XS KIX GIVXM½ IH XLIR [I will all be a family of divers again. Owners Margo & Tom Peyton, provide a very personal experience, from planning your trip to assisting your every step along the way. Tom and Margo arrange visits to local schools, or villages, provide special needs care and special occasion surprises, as well as educational presentations and so much great family time. In Palau, Margo set up a spectacular helicopter ride over the Rock Islands for us.
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The result of all the personal service is why we keep coming back! It’s impossible to put into words how these unique family dive adventures have bonded our family and created memories for me with my grandkids that will last them a lifetime. ;I LEZI I\TIVMIRGIH fascinating cultures and explored new worlds so very different than our own. Each of these trips has expanded our knowledge, appreciation, acceptance and love of people all over the world. At the end of each of trip, Margo Peyton and Brad Holland have provided memories to last us a lifetime documented in their photo gallery on www.familydivers. com. Thank you, thank you, thank you Tom and Margo Peyton for creating Kids Sea Camp, the gift of being able to dive and travel with my kids and grandkids. FAMILY DIVE ADVENTURES
HEADTO-HEAD TESTING
SHEDDING LIGHT We tested 17 new dive and video lights
s
More than 8 inches long or
LUMENS
3,817 FULL BATTERY
HOW WE SCORE The lumens graphic shows light output in lumens with a full battery and after 60 minutes’ discharge. The bar graphs show each light’s score for beam size and shape and light output, with scoring as follows: 5=excellent 4=very good 3=good 2=fair 1=poor
BIGBLUE TL4800P PRICE $479.99 CONTACT bigbluedivelights.com
Test-diver comments about the TL4800P ranged from “great beam” to “holy crap, is this bright,” and no wonder. Its quadruple-LED light head delivers a tight, 10-degree beam with more illumination in our lab test than any other dive light. In fact, high power can be a little too much; fortunately, you can step it down to 50 percent, 25 percent and even 10 percent (there’s also an SOS flash mode) with a press of the push-button switch. With four rechargeable Li-ions and an aluminum body 6 inches long, it’s a little chunky. But it took very good ergo scores in our test using the lantern handle. (One gripe: BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE The handle puts the lighted switch on the bottom, out of sight.) With oodles of well- POOR EXCELLENT controlled power and a terrific beam, the LIGHT OUTPUT Bigblue TL4800P is our Testers Choice for large dive lights. EXCELLENT POOR
ROGER ROY has been a diver for more than 35 years and ScubaLab director since 2013. He first learned to dive while working as a firefighter, training to join the department’s search-andrescue team.
HOW WE TEST Objective testing was conducted at Wilger Testing Co., an accredited, independent facility in Sarasota, Florida. Lights were tested using an integrating sphere, an industrystandard testing device that measures a light’s total output, in lumens, without regard to its beam angle. To gauge both the output and burn time of lights, each light was tested twice; once with a fully charged (if rechargeable) or new (if disposable) battery, and again after discharging for a continuous 60 minutes. Because dive lights are designed for use in water, many will electronically reduce their output after a brief period of burning out of water to avoid overheating and Cont’d on pg. 36 >>
S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 35
LARGE LIGHTS
More than 8 inches long or 2 inches in diameter
ASK RO GE R
JACKET BCs
Why not use my video light as a backup dive light? Video lights with flash modes are powerful enough to make attention-getting emergency lights. But remember, if you use it to shoot video throughout a dive, you might use up a big chunk of your battery life.
LUMENS
1,040
LUMENS
2,141
FULL BATTERY
FULL BATTERY
SCUBAPRO
SEAC
NOVA 2100 SF
R30
PRICE $614 CONTACT scubapro.com
PRICE $239 CONTACT seacusa.com
To be fair, testing the Nova 2100 solely as a dive light is like putting a Swiss Army knife into a string-cutting contest. With a powerful 15-degree spot/65-degree flood beam (and combinations of both) and equipped with a pistol grip and two video mounts, the Nova 2100 is practically a one-stop shop for dive and video lighting. The push-button switch (with lighted battery-level display) lets you choose from 100 percent or 50 percent flood, 100 percent spot, 50 percent flood plus 75 percent spot, 25 percent flood plus 50 percent spot, as well as strobe and SOS flash modes. The many options left us sometimes toggling through the menu for the best selection — hence very good scores for beam shape and light output, but just a good score for ease of use. Pricey, rugged and versatile, it can handle dive, photo or video duties.
The R30’s profile reminds us of an old-fashioned night watchman’s light, or as one test diver wrote, “like a caveman’s club.” But in the water, divers had little but praise for the R30 and its functional beam that can be adjusted from 12 to 75 degrees by twisting the light head. The sliding magnetic switch was rated excellent, taking top score in its category for ease of operation. The R30 is powered by a rechargeable Li-ion that can be easily removed, as well as charged while in the light by removing the tail piece. It’s a handy feature, but be sure you don’t accidentally loosen the tail while twisting the light head underwater. One gripe was its limited settings, with just two power levels plus a flash; it’s so bright, some divers wanted an extra step down. Powerful, versatile and affordable, the Seac R30 is our Best Buy.
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE EXCELLENT
POOR
POOR
>> Cont’d from pg. 35
damaging circuitry. For this reason, measurements taken in the sphere were conducted immediately after turning on each light. Following the first test with full batteries, all lights were
36 / JULY 2018 S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M
EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT
LIGHT OUTPUT EXCELLENT
recharged or batteries were replaced, then allowed to burn on full power underwater for one hour, then tested again. Canister lights, which are designed for extremely long burn times, were tested after one hour of discharging and after four hours.
POOR
Ergonomic testing was conducted at Devil’s Den Spring in Williston, Florida. Test divers using underwater slates scored each dive light in the following categories: Ease of Use Intuitiveness and
EXCELLENT
ease of operation of switches and controls; ease of selecting various power levels or activating emergency flash Comfort/Security of Grip or Mount Size, shape of grip; weight, balance and ergonomics; usefulness of
OPPOSITE: JOHN MICHAEL BULLOCK
SCUBALAB
s
COMPACT LIGHTS
Less than 8 inches long and 2 inches in diameter
LUMENS
LUMENS
192
838
FULL BATTERY
FULL BATTERY
LUMENS
275 FULL BATTERY
CRESSI
LIGHT & MOTION
MARES
LUMIA
GOBE 800 SPOT FC
EOS 3RZ
PRICE $109.95 CONTACT cressi.com
PRICE $150 CONTACT lightandmotion.com
PRICE $150 CONTACT mares.com
Powered by four AAs, the Lumia has a beam that seems a little yellowy topside but surprised divers with its even, penetrating coverage underwater. The sliding switch operates easily, is placed just right and snaps locked, in both the on and off positions, helping to avoid accidentally discharging in a BC pocket. The Lumia technically has two power levels, but switching between them requires unscrewing the light head and sliding a switch. On high power, it automatically switches off after three minutes to preserve batteries (after 60 minutes on low), so you need to slide the switch off and then on again; we kept it set on the lower power level. Test divers wished the Lumia had a choice of power levels and a flash mode but thought its size made it ideal as a backup light.
One of the brightest lights in its category, the GoBe earned very good scores across the board. The 12-degree cone evenly illuminates a wide area with a gentle falloff and was described by one diver as “diffuse, but with lots of light to go around.” Three primary power modes offer a useful range of increments and are easily controlled. An auxiliary mode, accessed by holding down the button for two seconds, offers a low-power beam and SOS flash. A digital switch-lock prevents unwanted activation, and a colored light indicates the status of the factory-sealed rechargeable battery. The torch has just enough heft to give it a nice sense of quality, and the textured, rubber panels allow for a comfortable grip. It’s compatible with several interchangeable light heads and has a tripod mount.
Just over 5 inches long, the little 3RZ packs a lot of features into its aluminum body, including a magnetic switch with a sliding lock to prevent accidental activation and a charging port for its replaceable lithium battery (accessed by unscrewing the tail section to plug in a USB charger). But best is its zoom feature, which lets you adjust the beam angle anywhere from 12 to 75 degrees by rotating the light head. That helped it take the top score among compact lights for beam size and shape. It has two wellspaced power levels, plus a flash mode. While this sounds like nitpicking for a compact light, some divers found it a bit too small to be handy, with its knurled handle (only about ¾ inch in diameter and less than 3 inches long) not that easy to grip by divers with bigger mitts.
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE EXCELLENT
POOR
POOR
EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE
EXCELLENT
POOR
lanyard or attachments Beam Size and Shape Usefulness of the beam’s illumination underwater Light Output Brightness, color, penetration and quality of the light’s beam
EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT
LIGHT OUTPUT EXCELLENT
POOR
Power Levels The ability to regulate the beam’s brightness in useful increments Power-Level Indicator Usefulness of power-level indicator or warning, if equipped
EXCELLENT
TE ST TE AM : MARY FRANCES EMMONS, BECCA HURLEY, ROBBY MYERS, ROGER ROY, TO M WUEST AN D AN DY ZU NZ FOR COMPLETE TEST RESULTS, GO TO SCUBADIVING.COM/SCUBALAB.
S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 37
COMPACT LIGHTS
Less than 8 inches long and 2 inches in diameter
SCUBALAB
s
LUMENS
291
LUMENS
FULL BATTERY
LUMENS
675
402
FULL BATTERY
FULL BATTERY
PRINCETON TEC
PRINCETON TEC
SEAC
GENESIS RECHARGEABLE
LEAGUE
R3
PRICE $149.99 CONTACT princetontec.com
PRICE $49.99 CONTACT princetontec.com
PRICE $89 CONTACT seacusa.com
The Genesis features all of the basics of a functional, reliable torch. Our test divers found it plenty bright in the water, rating it very good for beam size and shape and good for light output. “Bright with a nice color,” one diver noted about the light’s wide, evenly lit beam. Some divers felt that the two power levels were too similar and the light could have used some additional settings, but they appreciated having an SOS flash and the indicator light that encircles the push button. Though some testers felt that the edges near the switch were sharper than they needed to be, the divers rated the light very good for comfort and security. “Good size and weight,” one tester noted. Princeton Tec’s Genesis also comes with a hand-mount, giving you the option for a different grip.
Dive lights don’t come much less expensive than the League. Its single power setting and four AA batteries feel a bit antiquated compared to some of the more-advanced lights in our test, but divers found it to be both capable and comfortable. “Liked much better than I expected,” was a comment typical of test divers’ reactions to the humble torch. The beam is diffuse with some visible halo but scored well for its reach. The on/off switch couldn’t be easier to operate and incorporates a handy, unobtrusive locking mechanism. The injection-molded plastic body is surprisingly comfortable and provides an ergonomic one-handed grip. The lack of an emergency strobe would make us hesitant to take this as our primary, but the League makes a sturdy, inexpensive backup.
The compact R3 was chosen by many divers as a favorite and was second only to our Testers Choice. The beam measured slightly over its rated output in our objective test and was rated very good for its light output. One tester commented: “Good penetration. Lots of light. Like the beam color.” The two power levels and emergency strobe are activated by what testers described as a “solid, responsive” magnetic push-switch that tied the top score for ease of use. The switch is stiff enough to make it unlikely — but not impossible — to turn on the light while in a pocket. The trumpetlike shape makes it a little awkward to hold on land but less so in water. Some divers wished the light had a coating on the grip instead of a metal surface but otherwise found it comfortable and secure.
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE EXCELLENT
POOR
POOR
IN A FLASH During our surface-signaling gear test (March/April 2017), we found that even well before sunset, a light is easier to spot at a distance than the most visible SMBs had been in broad daylight. That illustrated
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EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE
EXCELLENT
POOR
dramatically why it’s a smart idea to carry a torch not just on night dives but on all open-water dives (after all, there are many accounts of left-behind divers who never expected to spend the night at sea). And it also gave us a new
EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT
LIGHT OUTPUT EXCELLENT
POOR
appreciation for lights with strobe or SOS functions. While we found that flashing lights aren’t particularly more noticeable than nonflashing lights, the benefit is that flash modes dramatically increase battery life. For example,
EXCELLENT
Light & Motion’s GoBe 800 Spot runs for three hours at medium power, but its SOS mode will last up to a day and a half. This feature can be a real lifesaver and is worth considering when choosing your backup as well as primary light.
LUMENS LUMENS
LUMENS
186
312
FULL BATTERY
FULL BATTERY
820 FULL BATTERY
SEALIFE
UK
XS SCUBA
SEA DRAGON MINI 900
MINI-Q40 MK2
LT 3 5 0
PRICE $79.95, not including battery CONTACT sealife-cameras.com
PRICE $60 CONTACT uwkinetics.com
PRICE $110, $125 with snap clip CONTACT xsscuba .com
Divers overwhelmingly chose the Mini 900 as their favorite compact, and it’s easy to see why; the light led the pack in nearly every category. “It has it all,” as one diver put it. The powerful beam was rated very good for color, brightness and penetration, and can step down to halfor quarter-power. Cycling through the power levels and two emergency strobes (one SOS) is a no-brainer. Testers also appreciated the colored battery indicator. The light is small and straight, but its anodized-aluminum construction and textured grip helped it sit nicely in the hand. It might seem minor, but the chintzy lanyard felt at odds with the light’s overall quality. For its balance of size, ergonomics and performance, the Sea Dragon Mini 900 is our Testers Choice.
The reliable little Q40 has been around long enough to have gone through multiple redesigns and updates, but its latest makeover bumps up its light output and adds a push-button tail switch. Crisp, secure and simple to operate, the switch helped the MK2 tie the top score for ease of use. The new switch makes the MK2 a bit longer and somewhat less tidy for use with the included silicone mask strap. But a big plus is it also allows simple one-handed operation rather than the two-handed process needed for the older twist-on models. The MK2’s tight, even beam was rated very good for size and shape, and for output, taking the top scores for AA-powered lights. But the MK2’s single power level and its lack of an emergency flash mode hurt its overall score.
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE EXCELLENT
POOR
THE SAME, BUT DIFFERENT Our experience has shown that batteries — even seemingly identical ones — aren’t necessarily the same. In testing lights with rechargeable lithium-ions (like the one shown at right), we use the supplied batteries and
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT POOR
Simple and intuitive, the LT350’s magnetic sliding dimmer-switch tied top score for ease of use. At its highest output, testers appreciated the far-reaching beam with its hot center and soft halo, but they also liked its lower settings — which can step all the way down to a mere 10 lumens so you can do things such as illuminate your test slate without blowing out your eyeballs. “Love how dim it will go,” one diver noted. Between extremes, testers felt that the dimmer switch offered little variation and jumped between low and high too quickly. It also lacks an emergency flash. The aluminum body has a textured handle that scored very well for comfort and security. We tested the LT with its optional snap clip, a convenient feature for backup duty.
EXCELLENT
POOR
charged them per instructions. For those using disposables, we use new, major-brand batteries just out of the box, purchased at the same place and time. With Li-ions (which are
EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT
LIGHT OUTPUT EXCELLENT
POOR
more difficult to test than alkalines), we’ve found that burn times can vary noticeably, likely related to a battery’s use and charging history. And in this test, when the output of a AA light came out lower than expected, we
EXCELLENT
tried another set of batteries — from the same package as the first. The result was nearly 40 percent more light output. Bottom line: Use highquality batteries that meet the light manufacturer’s requirements, and replace them at the first sign of trouble.
S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 39
VIDEO LIGHTS
SCUBALAB
s
LUMENS
LUMENS
LUMENS
1,416
3,267
4,742
FULL BATTERY
FULL BATTERY
FULL BATTERY
AQUALITE
BIGBLUE
SEALIFE
PRO 100°
VL4000P
SEA DRAGON 4500
PRICE $200 CONTACT uwkinetics.com
PRICE $353.99 CONTACT bigbluedivelights.com
PRICE $699.95 CONTACT sealife-cameras.com
The Aqualite Pro is just 5 inches long but surprisingly powerful. In our objective test, it put out well over the manufacturer’s claimed output of 1,200 lumens — although it dropped off steeply after an hour’s discharge. The 100-degree beam doesn’t reach far, but it illuminates everything within its range with an even, white light. Moving between the four brightness levels is done by spinning the rotating switch on the back of the light. The knob can be a little stiff, but the design makes it easy to change settings from behind your camera rig. There is an included SOS flash for emergencies, but you’ll want to take a look at the manual and practice before you need it because the process for activating the strobe isn’t exactly intuitive. The light also comes with a collapsible camera mount capable of holding two lights and a compact camera.
Slightly smaller than a can of Red Bull, the VL4000P is full of energy thanks to the chunky Li-ion battery inside. Six LEDs output a wide, 120-degree-angle beam of even, white light. “Will light up the whole cavern,” one diver commented about its excellent illuminating abilities. The button to switch between the settings (100 percent, 50 percent, 25 percent and 10 percent power, as well as an emergency strobe) features a colored battery-indicator light. The light also has a red LED mode, a nice secondary function that can help you get close to skittish creatures or focus your camera. The light comes with a yellow filter and a ball joint for camera use. It also comes with a hand-mount glove, but divers found the aluminum body was comfortable and ergonomic even in their bare hands. “Wish Bigblue made a dive-light version,” one test diver wrote.
This hefty light packs a punch befitting its size. In our objective test, the Sea Dragon pumped out an insanely bright 4,742 lumens. In the water, its brilliance didn’t diminish. “For when you absolutely, positively, have to light up the entire ocean,” one test diver noted. This submarine sun has five brightness settings — including an auto mode — that are easily cycled through with a push of the button. Designed for photography as well as video use, this light features a flash-detection mode that dims the light when a strobe is detected; while not its intended use, we also found it handy for checking our gauges quickly without completely blowing out our eyeballs. The light head includes YS adapters for standard mounting systems and SeaLife’s Flex-Connect system. If you’re ever left at sea, the strobe function should help attract attention.
TRAVELING LIGHT Flying with lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries requires precautions — the main one being that loose batteries cannot be packed in checked luggage. Here are safety considerations governed by federal regulations, airline
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rules and common sense. Carry-on or checked? FAA regulations allow “personal” devices with Li-ions installed to be packed in carry-on or checked bags — if the device is “protected against accidental
activation.” If the light doesn’t have a secure switch lock, you might be able to tape the switch in place, or cover the batteries’ terminals with tape before installing them. Protected from short circuit For loose Li-ion batteries
taken in your carry-on, you must take precautions to make sure their terminals can’t be shorted by contact with other contents such as keys, coins or other batteries. Pack them in their original packaging, individual plastic bags, or cover terminals with
CANISTER LIGHTS
LUMENS
2,115
AS K R OG ER
FULL BATTERY
What do you mean by the “quality” of a light beam? Quantity of light isn’t all that matters for a dive light to be effective and easy on the eyes. Just as important are more-subjective factors such as color, ability to penetrate the water column, and how soft or hard the beam’s edges are.
LUMENS
1,083 FULL BATTERY
DIVE RITE
HOLLIS
HP50
LED 1200
PRICE $1,175 as tested CONTACT diverite.com
PRICE $899.95 CONTACT hollis.com
The two canisters in our test look outwardly similar and share characteristics (scads of light, rugged aluminum construction, and looong burn times), but they’re different in the details. The HP50 has a modular design, with a light head that can be used either with a canister or a wireless battery pack that creates a powerful, compact hand-mount light just 6 inches long (our combo test set included both). The HP50’s rotary magnet switch — mounted on the light head in easy reach — gives a choice of three well-spaced power levels plus a strobe. The quick-release hand-mount was rated excellent, but best of all was the HP50’s brilliant 10-degree beam. “Best dive light I’ve ever used,” commented one test diver. Also available with canister only ($995) or handheld only ($699).
The LED 1200’s aluminum canister is 9 inches long and comes configured for standard or sidemount use. The switch is a toggle on the canister top that operates with a crisp, audible snap that divers found satisfying. The choices are on or off, and while that made its operation simple, some divers wished they could step down the power because it can be overwhelming with close objects. Otherwise its beam and output were rated very good, drawing praise for deep penetration in clear water with just a bit of suspended material. As one tester noted, “You can see to the back of the cave with this baby.” The canister is rated for five hours of burn time; while we tested canisters only up to four hours, the LED 1200 was actually putting out slightly more light after four hours than with a full charge.
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE
BEAM SIZE AND SHAPE EXCELLENT
POOR
POOR
heavy tape (duct tape works great), and make sure they can’t shift around. How many, how big? The FAA doesn't limit the number of “consumersize” Li-ion batteries in your carry-on. Consumer-size is
EXCELLENT
POOR
LIGHT OUTPUT
LIGHT OUTPUT EXCELLENT
POOR
defined as a rating of less than 100 watt hours (Wh). The biggest battery in our test was rated at 57 Wh; the common 18650 Li-ion battery is 12.5 Wh. (The FAA allows Li-ions up to 160 Wh in
EXCELLENT
carry-ons — if your airline approves.) What is my battery’s rating? Newer Li-ions should be marked with a Wh rating. For older ones that list voltage (V) and ampere hours (Ah),
multiply volts by amp hours for watt hours. The final word The rules are written with common consumer electronics (not dive gear) in mind; the final decision rests with the airport security officer.
S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 41
FIRST LOOK AT NEW GEAR BY ROBBY MYERS
g
XS SCUBA HYPOS PRICE $99.95 CONTACT xsscuba.com
The fi xed blades of these freediving fins are flexible and track straight during slow, efficient strokes as well as quick, powerful snaps. The rubber foot pockets are comfortable, and can be worn barefoot or with thin neoprene socks. The low cost makes this an attractive option for new freedivers, but it’s also suitable for scuba divers who like to spend time without a tank. A fully kitted diver might have to work a little harder but will find the Hypos has plenty of power.
TUSA PARAGON PRICE $200 CONTACT tusa.com
The well-constructed Paragon spares no expense. The solid frame gets its toughness from three separate layers: polyurethane, metal and polycarbonate. The skirt is engineered with features that add strength and rigidity without sacrificing a soft, comfortable seal. The fi ve-position, strap-mounted buckles are designed to keep the threedimensional mask strap off your ears. The crystal-clear lenses are anti-reflective, UV420treated and available in a range of corrective lenses.
SCUBAPRO G2 CONSOLE
ROBBY MYERS is the assistant gear editor and a ScubaLab testteam diver. He has been diving since 2014.
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The console version of the G2 features the same customizable, full-color display as the wrist computer, laid out in a vertical orientation. Navigating the vast number of features — including a digital compass, nitrox and trimix compatibility and a host of different settings — is easy thanks to the simple, three-button operation and clear menu prompts. With the help of a heart-rate monitor (sold separately), the G2 incorporates exertion into its calculations.
JON WHITTLE (3)
PRICE $1,499 CONTACT scubapro.com
It’s a bucket-list shot that could soon be a thing of the past: hammerheads by the score at Cocos, hundreds of miles off Costa Rica.
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TROUBLED WATERS COCOS, MALPELO AND THE GAL APAGOS FORM THE THREE PROTECTED POINTS OF THE EASTERN PACIFIC’S FAMED GOLDEN TRIANGLE, THE PINNACLE OF BIG- ANIMAL DIVING. TODAY THE MOST MAGNIFICENT ANIMALS IN THE SEA ARE THREATENED BY LONG-LINE FISHERS WHO STALK THE UNDERSEA HIGHWAYS THEY DEPEND ON. SCIENTISTS IN THE REGION ARE SOUNDING THE AL ARM, AND DEDICATING THEIR LIVES TO FORESTALLING DISASTER FOR THESE ECOSYSTEMS. TEXT BY JAMIE WATTS PHOTOS BY DAMIEN MAURIC
S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 45
THE EASTERN PACIFIC HAS more than its share of Earth’s most spectacular marine life and diving encounters. At its core is the Golden Triangle: Costa Rica’s Cocos, Colombia’s Malpelo and Ecuador’s Galapagos. The names of these islands rightly evoke images of sheer underwater magnificence: big shoals of big fish, including jacks, barracudas and tunas. Megafauna, from the only place yet discovered where large, pregnant whale sharks gather. Earth’s largest aggregations of tropical dolphins. Famous schools of hammerheads and silky sharks. The key area for huge and growing jumbo squid populations. Breeding and feeding grounds for blue, sperm and humpback whales. For biganimal encounters, particularly schooling sharks, there probably is nowhere else on Earth where divers can encounter these kinds of numbers. It’s an exciting time, as scientists begin to unlock the secrets of the region and the movements of its charismatic giants through deep water and along its chains of seamounts. Exciting, but tempered by concerns brought by this same burgeoning understanding. Tagging of large animals and a better appreciation of the area’s seasons and ecology are giving us insight into how this region works. We know more now about the migrations of large ocean travelers between these island and seamount hot spots. Hammerheads and other sharks use these areas for rest and socializing, heading out and away at night to feed, with some animals moving between sites with the seasons. But as migrating animals move away from and between these islands, they move out of protected areas — and toward an unknown fate. UNDEFENDED HIGHWAYS
Pacific Ocean
Cocos Island, Costa Rica
Malpelo, Colombia
Galapagos, Ecuador Registered movement zone Aggregation zone Observed routes
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The migration corridors between these hot spots have little or no protection from fishing. This remarkable area has been hit hard; much of the fishing is unregulated, and certainly some of it is illegal.
Immense aggregations of jacks are a hallmark of Cocos, now under threat from illegal and unsustainable fishing.
GAL APAGOS: THE GRE ATEST SHOW ON E ARTH
I’m holding the rocks, scanning for hammerheads. Walls of fish block my view. I know that hammers are shy, so I stay at the edge, just outside a cleaning station. Out in the blue, they come. Not dozens, hundreds. I slow my breathing and move forward. They are coming in waves, a pulsing wall of hammerheads passing just a couple of yards away. Magnificent.” —DAMIEN MAURIC, UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHER
COCOS COUSTE AU’S COCOS
Alcyone seamount is always special, discovered and named by Jacques Cousteau after a boat my grandfather designed for him. Alcyone is arguably Cocos’ diving highlight; hammerheads can form a wall of hundreds of sharks from far below divers to the surface.” —DAMIEN MAURIC
ONE ANGRY, PASSIONATE MAN Randall Arauz is a passionate, smart, dedicated man — and these days sometimes an angry and frustrated one. He’s been involved in Cocos Island research and conservation since 2004, with 36 trips to the island as a marine scientist, tagging sharks and turtles, and using submarines to place acoustic receivers on local seamounts. Several hundred sharks and turtles, and smaller numbers of manta rays, have been tagged to date across the region. The whale sharks and some of the silkies have so far been the champion long-distance migrators, some spanning right across from the Galapagos,
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Malpelo and Cocos to Baja, the Revillagigedos and Clipperton Island to the north, and Peru to the south. Hammerheads prefer the core of the Golden Triangle — a dozen hammers tagged at Cocos have made trips to Malpelo and the Galapagos, but many more regularly shuttle between Cocos and Las Gemelas, or the Twins, seamounts 40 miles away along the Cocos ridge that forms a highway to the Galapagos. Scientists call the ridge — used as a migration route from Costa Rica to the Galapagos by green and leatherback turtles as well as by Galapagos, hammerhead and silky sharks —
the Galapagos-Cocos Swimway. It’s a well-used route — and perhaps the most important bridge for marine animals between the Costa Rica Dome and HumboldtGalapagos ecosystems. Research carried out by Arauz and other scientists has led to the implementation and expansion of a marine-protected area and a no-take zone, now extending 400 square miles to include Las Gemelas. Arauz and conservationists across the region have formed Migramar (migramar.org), a coalition of scientists and conservationists building a solid base of understanding on migration corridors and seamounts, and the movements of sharks, turtles and
COSTA RICA THERMAL DOME The large-scale ecology of this region is driven by the interplay of two vast, rich ecosystems: the Costa Rica Thermal Dome north of the equator and the Humboldt-Galapagos system that reaches from South America and spreads along the equator. These systems are two of only three areas on Earth — the other being in the northwest Indian Ocean — where extensive cold-water upwellings bring an abundance of marine life to the open oceans of the tropics. Tropical seas in general are virtual deserts, but where these cool-water systems approach the surface, plankton erupts, and millions of ocean giants feed on trillions of prey animals over several thousand square miles. As the sun moves north and south with the seasons, these two giant systems — particularly the CRTD to the north — shift, expand, and contract with the ebb and flow of the seasons. The CRTD is a bulge of deep, cold, nutrient-rich water between
cetaceans through the region. They have used this understanding, and the science underpinning it, to advise and, in some cases, lobby governments to protect these areas and conserve their megafauna. Costa Rica’s government , however, currently seems more supportive of short-term fishing than conservation. You can sense the frustration in Arauz as he catalogs the slow, steady weakening of protection of Cocos from fishing. Since 2014, hammerheads have been listed under CITES; to export their fins requires studies demonstrating that the fishery is sustainable. In 2014, the government allowed the export of more than 2,000 pounds of fins,
but then acknowledged that shark fins should not have been exported until a council of scientists could demonstrate sustainability. Scientists recommended maintaining the ban on shark-fin export, so the government has changed who can sit on the council — twice. The government recently reduced the committee to a single scientist and several members of the industrial-fishing industry, apparently in the hope that they can get a body that tells them it is sustainable to export fins. While discussions continue, shark fishing continues, with fishing companies simply stockpiling the fins until they can bypass or change the council’s recommendations.
Clockwise from left: Eagle rays are a frequent sight; hammers are much more shy, and tend to stick to cleaning stations like this one at Manuelita Deep; a Galapagos hogfish defends hidden eggs; coral also is under threat at Cocos, from climate change and predation.
100 and 200 miles across, depending on time of year, pulled up from the depths to just a few yards below the surface. When it rises, it brings an explosion of life. Cocos Island — about 5 miles long by a little over 2 miles wide, 340 miles off Costa Rica — is at the southern edge of the CRTD through the middle of the year. Unlike other islands of the eastern tropical Pacific, Cocos is lush and green. Hammerhead numbers at Cocos may be the highest in the world. From May through September, hammerheads, whale sharks and mantas reach their highest numbers around the island.
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MALPELO
Silky sharks school in large numbers — a star attraction at Malpelo — at a site called Sahara. Opposite: La Ferreteria is a site where moray eels also seem to “school” reliably in big groups.
Sandra Bessudo first came to Malpelo in 1987 and was bowled over by the schools of silkies and hammerheads. She also noticed several fishing boats moored to reefs, with sharks on board. This was the start of a life dedicated to the conservation of Malpelo. Beginning with a petition — and small numbers of mostly friends, divers and conservationists — Fundacion Malpelo was created in 1989 (fundacionmalpelo.org). A chance meeting ser ved her well. While doing research, Bessudo inadvertently entered a military zone on Colombia’s Caribbean side; the navy boat that intercepted her had on board
then-President Cesar Gavaria. She told him that if he truly loved diving, he should go to Malpelo. Gavaria had never heard of Malpelo; Bessudo ended up guiding him for a day of diving there. A year later, Malpelo was declared a sanctuary — 3,310 square miles were protected in 1995. The Colombian navy now works with Colombia’s National Parks Authority to organize annual scientific expeditions to the island. Because the navy boats are dedicated primarily to fighting drug trafficking, it takes a little work and negotiation to get their time and support; since 2000, there has been a real scientific program in place thanks to Fundacion Malpelo.
Fundacion Malpelo’s goals and roles are to raise funds to study and protect Malpelo, which the foundation co-manages with the National Parks Authority. The funds are used to support the science program, evaluating migrations between the islands of the Golden Triangle. The foundation also promotes Malpelo as a sanctuary and diving destination, both within Colombia and with international visitors, and renews mooring sites around the island. Divers booking trips through Fundacion Malpelo make a small contribution via the boat operator. The foundation is currently raising funds for a catamaran to monitor the area around the island. Since Malpelo became a marine
TOP LEFT: COURTESY MAURICIO ANGEL
LIFE WITH SHARKS
THE OASIS OF MALPELO Farther inshore than the Costa Rica Dome or the Galapagos, Malpelo sits in relatively warm, nutrient-poor seas between these two vast productive zones. Even tinier than Cocos, at less than a mile long and a third of a mile wide, Malpelo is a magnet to silky and hammerhead sharks. Only the island breaks the surface, but its submarine ridge is extensive. At a little more than 300 miles offshore, Malpelo is close enough to the coast to benefit from upwellings that run along the ridge with the Panama Current, enriching the seas for the first few months of the year, which bring the greatest numbers of hammerheads. The seasonal offshore Panama Current, and its position between the two great systems, allows Malpelo to act as a steppingstone, an oasis between the great northern and southern ecosystems. A handful of hammerheads tagged at Malpelo early in the year have been seen just a few days later off the Galapagos, more than 600 miles away, and several migrated from Malpelo to Cocos. Later in the year, the number of resident hammerheads at Malpelo drops, leaving the Dome and Galapagos systems more isolated.
park, most species have shown signs of recovery, although hammerheads are still decreasing at a dramatic rate. Silkies have rebounded in recent years, by the thousands, although Bessudo now sees hundreds with hooks embedded in their mouths. Colombia was the first country to implement legislation banning the landing of shark fins, and directed shark fishing is now banned. (Bycatch of sharks is not illegal, but the entire shark must be landed, with fins attached.) After six years of lobbying, a law was passed in July 2017 to fight illegal fishing and poaching. Until this law, the navy had 30 hours to bring suspects to the nearest
port for prosecution. This worked for drug traffickers but not for Malpelo poachers — Malpelo is 40 hours by boat from the nearest Colombian port. Today, the 30-hour deadline starts once the poaching boats arrive in port. The government has increased the size of the marine protected area to more than 10,000 square miles, and the navy now patrols the MPA, actively chasing and arresting poachers. Since the law was passed, one boat has been seized. Since then, no illegal vessels have been seen in the area. Bessudo believes that the Colombian authorities have the willingness and the teeth to fight illegal fishing.
MALPELO: CURIOUS AND CURIOUSER
As we get close to stop depths, a single shark cruises by, followed by a dozen more. Soon we are drifting in a school of hundreds of silkies. They are not as shy as hammerheads and seem intrigued by my fins — every time I turn around, I can see five or six curious sharks very close behind me. I don’t want this dive to end.” —DAMIEN MAURIC
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GALAPAGOS WHAT WE STAND TO LOSE
Our dive is coming to an end. It’s been incredible — hammerheads everywhere, trevallies in the thousands. I find it hard to tear myself away. I reach safety-stop depth, and out of nowhere comes a bus-size whale shark. It passes through and leaves us behind, far too brief an encounter.” —DAMIEN MAURIC
Researchers believe the Galapagos’ MPA offers better protection to megafauna such as whale sharks because of its larger size; hammerhead sharks are not faring well in any of the Golden Triangle’s protected areas.
César Peñaherrera has spent the past decade tagging megafauna and studying population dynamics and ecosystems, trying to understand and quantify the benefits of marine protected areas. Tuna fisheries — the major local fishery — outside protected areas have improved their catches in the whole of Ecuador with the creation of the Galapagos MPA. For sharks, the results have been more mixed. “The MPA works for species that aggregate locally, but not ones that migrate outside” — notably the hammerheads, Peñaherrera explains. As in Cocos and Malpelo, hammerheads are the worst impacted of the megafauna, Peñaherrera says. “Their numbers have halved — they are not doing great. They move away from the MPA and can be fished elsewhere.” Peñaherrera, the academic director of Pontifical Catholic University of Ecuador who leads biological data collection and analysis at Migramar, believes that Galapagos’ larger number of islands helps protect aggregation sites compared to Cocos’ MPA. (Cocos’ system of seamounts would also need to be covered to provide that
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same level of protection.) Peñaherrera is building a foundation of scientific data to help governments make informed decisions on building larger MPAs. In general, the industrial-fishing fleets in Ecuador understand that MPAs will boost their business longterm and allow fish populations to grow. But smaller, artisanal fishing operations live day to day, and don’t necessarily take a big-picture view. Peñaherrera says that fisheries are still by far the greatest threat to the marine megafauna of the
region. For years it’s been known to the diving community that fishing vessels wait for nightfall at the edge of the Galapagos Marine Reserve’s 40-mile boundary. When patrols or visiting liveaboards are out of the area, they move in. Fishing vessels — either illegally or with the compliance of authorities and fisheries patrol agencies — are longlining through national parks and other protected areas, and hitting the famous shark schools hard. With large MPAs, Peñaherrera expects a certain amount of
LEFT: COURTESY WILLIAM GIRALDO
THINKING BIGGER
RICH AND PRODUCTIVE
illegal fishing will persist. But as destructive as fishing can be to Galapagos’ megafauna, there might be worse to come. Peñaherrera and Migramar have tracked turtles and other animals heading farther west and north from the islands, following jellyfish aggregations and finding themselves in the great Pacific garbage patch. Plastic clogging the stomachs of megafauna is one thing; microplastics is a more insidious and larger problem, working its way in through the bottom of the food
web. “It’s a huge issue, and in the midterm, it’s going to be the largest threat,” Peñaherrera says. Like Bessudo in Malpelo and Arauz in Cocos, Peñaherrera is a believer in dive tourism as a strong support for conservation in the Triangle. It’s a revenue-producing alternative to fishing, and the economic gains from dive tourism last longer. The pressure to fish, though, comes back again and again — the battle today is for exposure and awareness, and it’s not won yet.
The Galapagos ecosystem is an offshore, tropical continuation of the Humboldt Current system that runs up from Antarctica and feeds the western coast of South America. Chilean and Peruvian waters historically supported the largest fisheries on Earth along the edge of their continental shelves, and the southern Ecuadorian shelves are similarly rich. The Galapagos extension of this system, more than 500 miles west of the mainland, sees the same waters heading straight out to the west more than 600 miles farther along the equator, pulling up rich, cool water and nutrients with them, supporting a marine ecosystem almost as rich and productive — and more consistent throughout the year — than the Costa Rica Dome. Much of the megafauna migrates between the Galapagos and the Ecuadorian and Peruvian coasts, where the chilly, green waters provide even more food. From December to March, the seas around the Galapagos are a little warmer. This brings the greatest numbers of hammerheads to the area, famously around Wolf and Darwin islands. The warmth also seems to be appreciated by the islands’ marine iguanas, which breed during the warm season, as well as by schooling mobula rays. Through the middle of the year, the Galapagos system cools, and plankton productivity increases. The large whale sharks that Wolf and Darwin islands are renowned for gather in numbers, periodically heading out to feed or perhaps to give birth in deeper water westward along the equator.
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THE FAR COUNTRY
SCOTT JOHNSON. OPPOSITE: TOBIAS FRIEDRICH
OMAN HAS BEEN AT THE CROSSROADS OF TRADE AND EXPLORATION FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS. TODAY DIVERS ARE THE LATEST TRAVELERS TO FALL IN LOVE WITH THIS ARABIAN SEA DESTINATION.
BY M A RY FR A NCES EM MONS Free-range camels have right of way in Oman, where they are part livestock, part beloved pets. They’re also smart, curious and full of personality. Opposite: Harder to spot but keenly sought by divers and underwater photographers are dragon morays (Enchelycore pardalis). 54 / JULY 2018 S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M
SCOTT JOHNSON (3)
From top left: Oman anemonefish are perhaps the cutest of the many endemic species found in Oman’s waters, including the Oman hawkfish and Arabian butterflyfish; an inquisitive pharaoh cuttlefish investigates a photographer off oddly named Schmies Island; rugged cliffs can end at sandy beaches or plunge straight to the deep. 56 / JULY 2018 S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M
M
“INCREASINGLY EASY TRAVEL AND A CULTURE LONG USED TO FOREIGNERS EXPLAIN WHY OMAN IS ONE OF THE FASTEST- GROWING TOURIST DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD.”
nearly a thousand years, from about the fourth century B.C. to the fifth century A.D. Visitors today can clearly see that here the sea was paramount — provider and defender — carving a perfect harbor below the butte from which the bustling fortress commanded the countryside. In the heart of Salalah lies the remains of the port of Al-Baleed, another World Heritage site that supported the MANAGE YOUR EXPECTATIONS, I TELL MYSELF. frankincense trade from about 800 to 1600. Today it’s home to We’re out here at the edge of the world, where “all dives are a terrific history and maritime museum and a huge active arexploration dives,” cruise director Shaker Mohamed says in our chaeological site, exposing the bones of a city that welcomed first briefing. Let that be enough, I think. foreign visitors for 800 years — Marco Polo visited Al-Baleed in Still, you can’t help but wonder what might be out here, just 1290 and pronounced it beautiful. off the ancient town of Mirbat, around 75 miles from Oman’s It still is. Present-day Salalah is a holiday beach town for both Hallaniyat Islands. Arabs and Europeans, with a gleaming, modern city center — In the back of every diver’s mind: the Hallaniyats’ elusive pod any American mall rat would be at home in multistory Salalah of Arabian Sea humpbacks, perhaps the world’s only nonmigraGardens, with its food court and movie theater — and mile upon tory group, now so isolated from the global population that they mile of glorious white-sand beach fronting pale-jade surf of might be considered a distinct species. surprising clarity. We never do spy whales, but something big shows up on that Oman Aggressor is based here at a newly built marina and very first dive. And it’s getting bigger as it approaches divers and hotel complex for about six months of the year. (The yacht also gains scale in the hazy viz. A shark, for sure. Tiger? Bigger. dives the Daymaniyat Islands from Muscat, Oman’s capital, and And then the white stars on its dark skin begin to shine. Whale Musandam, in the Gulf of Oman.) Mirbat is our first dive, but our shark! A juvenile, less than 20 feet long, as gentle as can be, mestrue target this week is the Hallaniyats, about 25 miles east off merizing a half-dozen divers with just the wide, smooth swish of the Dhofar coast. its magnificent tail. As we’re high-fiving, a dozen mobula rays fly When part of Vasco da Gama’s armada came through these through, silhouetted against the greenish, particulate-filled water. islands in 1503 — the wreck of his Esmeralda lies in a restrictAs we’re digesting that, back comes the whale shark, making ed area off Al-Hallaniyah, the largest of the five islands — it took another leisurely pass, clearly undisturbed by our presence. months to get here from Lisbon. Today there are numerous diDivers are relatively new here, so it’s hard to guess what it’s rect flights from the U.S. to Dubai, just a two-hour connection thinking — perhaps just curious. It’s mutual. from Salalah. Increasingly easy travel and a culture long used to foreigners explain why Oman is one of the fastest-growing LAND OF FRANKINCENSE tourist destinations in the world. Ever since early man exited Africa and took a right down the It’s hard to imagine an easier or more-pleasant form of travel Arabian coast at least 100,000 years ago, curiosity has driven than Oman Aggressor, a 148-foot luxury yacht renovated from the the urge to roam. More than 2,000 years before the Victorians hull up — “really a piece of art,” Mohamed says with pride, and would make leisure travel accessible, we journeyed not only for he’s not wrong. Its mostly Egyptian crew cut its dive teeth in the knowledge, but also for gain. And few enRed Sea, and is both experienced and eager deavors stood to produce as much gain as to please; its attention and care will make you Musandam Peninsula the trade in frankincense, a fragrant resin feel like the Queen of Sheba, who, coincidenPersian Gulf made from the sappy tears of a scrubby little tally, is said to have had a summer palace at Dubai Daymaniyat Islands desert tree. Valued by the Romans as dearSumhuram — Dhofar frankincense was among Gulf of UNITED ARAB Oman Muscat ly as gold, counted among the Magis’ gifts to her gifts to Solomon. EMIRATES the infant Jesus in the Gospel of Matthew, frankincense was produced almost entirely SEABIRDS AND SHERBET SAUDI ARABIA in Oman’s rugged, mountainous Dhofar reWe rise the next day to a crescent moon OMAN gion, home to Salalah, departure port for the and bright stars, symbols of the Middle East Arabian Sea new Oman Aggressor. since Nebuchadnezzar’s time, hung in a sky At Sumhuram, an archaeological park and streaked like layers of peach, raspberry and Hallaniyat UNESCO World Heritage Site 25 miles east of tangerine sherbet (derived from the Arab Salalah Mirbat Islands Salalah, the frankincense trade flourished for Cont’d on pg. 60 >> S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 57
TOBIAS FRIEDRICH (2)
Native but not especially prevalent, lionfish are at home among the soft corals decorating the wreck of the City of Winchester, a World War II-era ship lying off Al-Hallaniyah. Far more elusive are the Hallaniyats’ pod of Arabian Sea humpbacks, seen here off the island of Al-Sawda. The pod does not migrate — perhaps the only pod in the world that does not — and scientists debate whether the isolated group now constitutes its own subspecies. S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 59
>> Cont’d from pg. 57
At Gotta Qibliyah off Al-Qibliyah, the Hallaniyats’ easternmost isle, a triangular opening in the wall gives way to an arched cathedral, where our lights make gorgeous patterns; natural light leads to the exit, where we spy a shy dragon moray, Enchelycore pardalis. Nonstinging (mostly) jellies of a delicate pink with darker accents mesmerize on our safety stop, many with a tiny fish inside; whether commensal travelers or doomed prey, we cannot say. All of us remark on the eels we’re seeing on every dive. Oman is lousy with morays, most of a girth that amazes. Not impressed with eels? Consider the little lilac-gray geometric moray — Gymnothorax griseus — whose delicate black-spot patterns, traced on its head, can remind you of the intricate
FROM TOP: COURTESY AGGRESSOR; SCOTT JOHNSON. OPPOSITE: SCOTT JOHNSON
word sharba, a drink). Seabirds are silhouettes sketched against the sparkling lights of Mirbat’s minarets. Coastal mountains soar to 2,000 feet, jagged black outlines that soften with the sun’s rays into folds of undulating stone. It’s all heartbreakingly beautiful, in a Lawrence of Arabia sort of way. Unlike most of the 13 divers aboard, Jim Maxwell, a retired U.S. military officer from Carlsbad, California, has experience traveling in the Middle East. While not much tops his first whale shark — “on the very first dive!” — he was drawn here by “the history and the culture. I wanted to see the frankincense trail, and a part of the Middle East I had not explored.” Exploration is why most of us are here. Everywhere we’re conscious that, at least underwater, we are seeing places not many have seen, in an area that receives very few divers a year. Briefing us on a plunge that, like many in the Hallaniyats, starts with an underwater pinnacle and ends in the blue, Mohamed reassures us: “If you find a big boat, it’s us.” At a site called Hasikiyah Arch, off tiny Al-Hasikiyah island, we leave the “big boat” aboard Oman Aggressor’s two pangas and drop down over huge stone fingers to a glassfish-filled cavern, bumping into one of the biggest day octopuses I’ve seen. Meandering along wide, sandy channels between fingers, we find a school of sweepers that moves like a living piece of Arabic script, forming straight lines that suddenly make flowing arabesques before turning in a new direction en masse. Magical. We could have stayed all day.
Clockwise from top: Oman Aggressor anchored off Al-Qibliyah; blue-barred parrotfish inhabit the shallow Marriott Wreck off Mirbat, a fish-filled dive; a zebra shark — so named because juveniles have black-and-white stripes — rests at Anemone Reef off Al-Hallaniyah. 60 / JULY 2018 S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M
another hill and — bam! Something big, maybe 8 feet long, rests on the sand. A nurse-type shark, but what the heck? Mushroom brown with dark spots, an enormous scythed tail and ridges running the length of its back like a leatherback turtle, it was the confusingly named zebra shark, Stegostoma fasciatum — juveniles boast black-and-white stripes — a bucket-list encounter with a strange and beautiful creature. This, as always, is why we roam: to behold the wonderful and strange, the things we have not seen, and perhaps not even imagined.
“THIS, AS ALWAYS, IS WHY WE ROAM: TO BEHOLD THE WONDERFUL AND STRANGE, THE THINGS WE HAVE NOT SEEN, AND PERHAPS NOT EVEN IMAGINED.” henna designs you might glimpse on the hands of local women. A “simultaneous hermaphrodite,” it can release up to 12,000 eggs per spawn, which might explain why they’re everywhere. Maxwell, my dive buddy, is taken with perhaps the most common eel here, the massive honeycomb, or laced moray, Gymnothorax favagineus. “I’ve never seen one before — so huge!” he exclaims. It’s not just the eels. Everything seems bigger here, from parrotfish to rainbow runners to black-blotched rays to the gazillion active nudibranchs — many 6 inches or more in length, including a couple of Spanish dancers in the 15-inch range — galloping across nearly every site. (Mohamed spots 15 on our first dive alone.) Again and again we encounter vast schools of many types of fish, contiguous but distinct, lined up like chapters in a book. Packed with a density that’s hard to conceive, they can be parted only by swimming through them, like entering the beating heart of a many-celled organism, one giant living thing. But nothing tops a wondrous animal we encounter at Angry Grouper, a super-fishy site off Al-Hallaniyah. Kicking hard against a decent current, we fly over a soft-coralcovered seamount and tuck into a sandy cross channel where we startle two rays the size of coffee tables. Finning through a lovely, lacy field of the bushiest black coral ever, we sail over the next ridge and right into a ray perhaps 4 feet across. Over
THE HUMAN CONNECTION For all the gains Oman has made since the present sultan began building a modern state in 1970, life here can seem strange to Americans. Omanis live under an absolute monarchy with zero guarantee of the basic freedoms Americans take for granted. For some, that might be a reason not to come. But how then does the unknown world become known? I keep going back to an encounter at the Salalah Gardens food court. As I passed a table of chattering, black-clad women draped head to toe, one was frantically beckoning to me. I paused, unsure — for a stranger to approach such women could be bad manners at best or an insult at worst. But even through her veil, I could see she was beaming, her eyes telegraphing a huge grin. Her hand gesture was just a wave. I shyly returned her greeting and moved on. What did she want from me that I could give in that moment? A smile. A connection. For thousands of years now, it’s been a good place to start.
NEED TO KNOW WHEN TO GO Oman Aggressor dives the Hallaniyat Islands November through April; May through October it is based in Muscat and dives the Gulf of Oman and the Musandam Peninsula. TRAVEL TIP Qatar Airways and Emirates Airline fly direct from U.S. hubs to Doha and Dubai, respectively. Salalah is about a two-hour flight from either. (When flying through Dubai, add extra time: The airport is vast, and requires a 30-minute bus ride from international to local terminals, where your Salalah flight will depart.) Oman requires an entrance visa — around $50 USD — that can be procured before you depart.
DIVE CONDITIONS Conditions vary with the season in the Hallaniyats. Water temps might be cooler — in the low 70s — and currents milder in winter, with visibility from 30 to 60 feet; for repetitive dives, a 5 mm fullsuit or greater, along with gloves and a hood, is desirable. Spring brings better viz but stronger currents. In summer, when the yacht moves to Muscat, the Dhofar coast experiences the Khareef, or monsoon, a unique weather pattern that draws Arab tourists from all over to experience the cool, wet weather that turns mountain riverbeds into plunging waterfalls and dry “wadis,” or valleys, into verdant oases. OPERATOR Oman Aggressor is the largest and most
luxurious of Aggressor Liveaboards’ yachts (aggressor .com). The sleek, 148-foot beauty has a beam of 28 feet and yields a stable, comfortable ride. It carries 13 crew (including its own pastry chef) and up to 22 passengers in 11 staterooms that feature single and king beds, not bunks, and en suite baths. Diving is from the mothership and its two 23-foot pangas. PRICE TAG A seven-night Hallaniyats cruise starts at $3,515; through December 31, a special offer takes $700 to $1,000 off that price. Oman cruises can be combined to include more than one itinerary. Aggressor Travel can help you book land excursions to Sumhuram, Al-Baleed, and other cultural and historic sites.
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THE BEST SPOTS FOR SAVVY DIVERS t 68 A SHORE THING 70 DRIVIN’ AND DIVIN’ BIG SUR 74 DIVERS GUIDE TO THE PHILIPPINES
MARTIN STRMISKA
“ MADE IN THE SHADE Fallen trees resting on the bottom and crystal-clear visibility make for the perfect optical illusion at Samaranger See in Tyrol, Austria. The small mountain lake has some of the best viz Austrian waters have to offer — 150-plus feet — making it seem like you’re floating in thin air.
That giant stride is a little harder to make when you are jumping into a sea full of sharks, but those sharks are also a large part of why you make this trip.” GREAT EXPECTATIONS PAGE 64
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LIVEAB OARD
T RAV E L
t
GREAT EXPECTATIONS The Great Barrier Reef might be the most famous dive destination in the world — and it still lives up to its name STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW MEIER
hen people asked about my travels, I would deny having visited the Great Barrier Reef. The truth is, I technically dived it a dozen years ago while on a dayboat out of Cairns, Australia. I had two dives on the world’s most famous reef with way too many divers and ugly sea conditions, so I didn’t feel I had properly experienced the reef. As I drop down onto Steve’s Bommie and am engulfed by schools of anthias, chromis and damselfish, I realize that
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my assessment was absolutely correct. This is something different altogether. Foraging among the colorful hard corals that adorn this seamount, I discover an elaborately decorated lacy scorpionfish, a brilliant pink-colored stonefish and a perfectly camouflaged yellow leaf scorpionfish. During my safety stop, while hovering near the top of the pinnacle, I photograph a pair of percula clownfish living symbiotically in a tan magnificent anemone.
A fantastic first two dives kick off seven days of liveaboard diving on the northern portion of the Great Barrier Reef. Our divemaster and cruise director, Angus Rowe, promises that “we’re just getting warmed up.” DOWN UNDER Stretching across 1,400-plus miles of the Coral Sea off the coast of Queensland, Australia, the Great Barrier Reef is the largest coral-reef ecosystem in the world. It would take a lifetime
5 REASONS TO DIVE SPIRIT OF FREEDOM 1 Endless Variety Spirit of Freedom offers three-, fourand seven-day trips in a multitude of cabin options for every budget. Encouraging, because liveaboard diving is the only way to explore the northern portion of the Great Barrier Reef. 2 Excellent Staff The attentive staff expertly tended to our needs both on board and in the water, including the management of a guest’s medical emergency, with the utmost professionalism. 3 Free Wi-Fi For those divers who can’t bear to be disconnected, free Wi-Fi is provided when in range. The router is next to the bar, with a large selection of drinks and a bottomless cookie jar. 4 Lots of Lounging Spirit of Freedom has expansive lounge space both inside and out. Perfect for sun bathing, resting in the shade, or watching a movie from its huge entertainment library.
to explore this bucket-list destination end to end, and so many of its iconic dive sites are best accessed via liveaboard yacht. Spirit of Freedom departs Cairns harbor nearly every Monday afternoon on a seven-day round trip through the Northern Ribbon Reefs and — if the weather cooperates — the outer reefs of the Coral Sea. Up to 26 guests accompany 10 crew on three-, four- or seven-day cruise itineraries. The three-day trip ends on Thursday at Lizard Island with a morning hike and lunch on
the beach before departing travelers take a short flight back to Cairns. Here also begins the fourday portion of the excursion, with new guests coming on board to join the seven-day adventurers for the duration of the cruise. LIVING UP TO ITS REPUTATION While traversing up the Ribbon Reefs on the way to Lizard Island, we have the opportunity to dive sites such as Joanie’s Joy, Lighthouse Bommie, Snake Pit and the world-famous Cod Hole.
Cuttlefish eggs the size of pingpong balls are tucked into branching corals, making the highlight reel at Joanie’s Joy along with a flyby from one of the egg’s protective parents. Large schools of snapper and fusiliers demand most of my attention at Lighthouse Bommie, while a few of the other divers in our group are entertained by sea snakes gliding by the lower portion of the pinnacle. More of the same is obviously on the menu at Snake Pit, along with a colossal green sea turtle, colorful giant clams and a rare sighting of a passing devil ray. Large potato cod — or grouper, as they are known in the States — are the star attraction at Cod Hole. The dive starts with a semi-organized circle of divers kneeling on the bottom while the divemaster hand-feeds the cod around the perimeter. Each
From bottom: a weedy scorpionfish; Spirit of Freedom. Opposite: dozens of gray reef sharks.
BOAT PHOTOS: COURTESY SPIRIT OF FREEDOM
5 Delicious Cuisine The chef prepares a wide assortment of delectable and plentiful entrees, while catering to numerous food allergies, sensitivities and preferences.
F OR MORE , GO T O S C UB A DI V ING.C OM/ L I V E A B O A RD S
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diver is afforded an up-close view of these beautiful spotted creatures as they come in for a snack. Once the feed is over, the cod linger for a while hoping for more handouts, which offers perhaps a better opportunity for photos because the sandy bottom gets pretty stirred up during the
craziness of the feed. Divemasters are underwater at every site during the trip, but each diver is responsible for their own dive profile and selected route. Following the leader is not required, and solo diving is possible for those with the proper certification and redundant gear.
In between the three to four dives per day, Spirit of Freedom provides three buffetstyle meals, several snacks, and plenty of refreshments. Its extensive bar offers a wide variety of local and regional beer and wine options, available on a self-serve honor system once your dive
day has finished. There is an indoor lounge area with a large, plush sectional couch, a camera-charging station, a large-screen TV, and a huge selection of movies and shows. Upstairs, the sun deck has enough seating to double as an outdoor dining room, with a nice mix of sun and shade to keep everyone comfortable. SWIMMING WITH SHARKS Leaving Lizard Island, we embark on a 10-hour overnight crossing to Osprey Reef. Here we find sheer walls covered in hard and soft corals, pelagics swimming in the blue, and plenty of gray reef sharks. Conditioned from years of shark feeds at the North Horn dive site, sharks were circling Spirit of Freedom before we cut our engines. One of the beautiful things about liveaboard diving is being able to walk off the back deck of your hotel room and be instantly submerged at your dive site. That giant stride is a little harder to make when From left: Massive corals form at Bougainville Reef; clown anemonefish; a twin-share cabin.
BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY SPIRIT OF FREEDOM
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NEED TO KNOW When to Go The Great Barrier Reef can be experienced any time of year. Dwarf minke whales can be found during June and July, while coral spawning may be observed in October or November. Calmer winds in November and December can allow access to rarely dived outer reefs. Travelers Tips Travel from the West Coast of the U.S. entails a 16- to 17-hour flight to either Sydney or Brisbane, followed by another short flight to Cairns. Arrive at least a day or two early to explore Cairns and the surrounding area, recover from jet lag, and allow time for possible lost bags to appear. Popular sites include the Kuranda Koala Gardens, the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway and the Daintree Rainforest. From top: Huge potato cod are the main attraction at Cod Hole; a banded coral shrimp.
you are jumping into a sea full of sharks, but those sharks are also a large part of why you make this trip. For the shark feed itself, divers are positioned in a semicircle around a pinnacle as the sharks swim past in anticipation. A cage full of fish heads is pulled down from the surface by a line-and-pulley system, attracting the sharks into a tight group in front of the divers. Eventually the cage is sprung open, and the sharks tear at the bait in a frenzied ending to a spectacular and exhilarating dive.
ON THE OUTSIDE Except for select charters in November and December when wind and sea conditions permit, Spirit of Freedom typically returns to the Ribbon Reefs for its transit back down to Cairns. The captain explains that “unless Mother Nature cooperates, it’s nearly impossible to anchor on these outer reefs without running aground.” We were lucky to be able to stay outside, continuing south from Osprey to Bougainville Reef, to marvel at the incredible coral formations at Dungeons and Dragons.
Massive hard corals the size and scope of which I had never seen exist here in giant pillars, domes, caverns and swim-throughs. For the past 20 years, I have heard incredible tales about this place and, amazingly, it exceeds expectations. I suggest bringing a fisheye lens to take in the immense corals, and use either a model or the local wildlife to add scale to your photos. I can say that the corals on the reef were much healthier than I expected. Like anywhere else in the world these days, we did run into a few spots of bleaching and algae growth, but nothing compared to the accounts I had heard in advance of our trip. The variety of weird and wonderful critters and of fish life was astounding, and I can now confidently say that I have been to the Great Barrier Reef.
Dive Conditions The warmest water occurs during the monsoonal period from January to April, averaging 84ºF. Visibility ranges from 60 to 100 feet year-round. The dry season runs from May to December, with water temps averaging 75ºF through August and 80ºF through December. An SMB and Nautilus Lifeline (provided) are required. Operator Spirit of Freedom (spiritoffreedom.com.au) is a 122-foot-long metal-hull liveaboard with a 24-foot beam. A crew of 10 serves up to 26 guests spread out over 11 cabins, ranging from ocean-view deluxe to twinand quad-share options. Price Tag The July 2018 through June 2019 price for a twin-share three-day trip starts around $1,600, with seven-day excursions coming in around $3,300 before a small marine-park fee. Rental gear, alcohol and nitrox are offered at an additional price.
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READERS
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READERS CHOICE REGIONAL WINNERS PACIFIC AND INDIAN
1. Hawaii 2. Indonesia 3. Philippines 4. Fiji CARIBBEAN AND ATLANTIC
1. Bonaire 2. Curaçao 3. Cayman Islands 4. St. Croix, USVI 5. Roatan NORTH AMERICA
1. Florida Springs 2. Monterey, California 3. Washington What is Readers Choice? More than 3,000 readers rate their experiences in our annual survey. Winners are selected via average scores. Explore a dozen more Readers Choice categories at scubadiving.com/ readerschoice.
READERS CHOICE: BEST SHORE DIVING Access is the name of the game at these prime locales that offer amazing encounters nearshore BY BROOKE MORTON
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hore diving holds wide appeal, not just because it’s a savings-smart option. It also affords leisurely divers more time because there's no schedule when you dive it yourself. Plus, shore diving can often pack more adventure, allowing you to drift across two sites in half the time. The more daring can scout the shoreline and start swimming wherever they see the most potential for awesomeness. 68 / JULY 2018 S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M
BONAIRE NO DIRECTIONS REQUIRED Introverted divers love Bonaire. Unlike other locales, where finding the put-in means asking directions, then getting lost and asking again if you were supposed to turn at the banana tree or coconut palm. Free maps of Bonaire’s 80-plus dive sites can be scored anywhere, and every site is marked with a yellow stone painted with the dive site’s name, so you never have to ask if you’re in the right spot. BEGINNER TO ADVANCED Bonaire’s sites vary in intensity and difficulty. Newbies ought to stick to the south, which offers less surge and entries that slope gently.
Clockwise, from left: Divers return from Salt Pier, one of Bonaire’s signature sites; spinner dolphins travel in a pod off Hawaii Island; stairs lead toward Florida’s Devil’s Den.
keeps watch. Not only does this front-yard diving allow beginners to get acclimated, but it’s also a great resource for anyone trying a new skill, or brushing up on a rusty one, such as navigation. It’s also the perfect place to try out new gear.
HAWAII BUFFET OF CHOICES Hawaii’s four biggest islands — Kona, Maui, Kauai and Oahu — all have well-known, mapped shore dives, most with easy access. Kona’s shores offer 28, Maui 40, Kauai 16 and Oahu 36, and that’s just the named sites. Rent a car, and you can explore the coast, greatly opening up the playing field of choose-your-ownadventure spots.
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: WAYNE MACWILLIAMS; THEBLADLER/ISTOCKPHOTO; JOHN MICHAEL BULLOCK
LAVA FIELDS This underwater landscape offers something many islands don’t: lava caves, caverns, tunnels and other photo-worthy formations. Sites such as Makena Landing on Maui’s southwest side offer lava-formed caves, home to a host of life, from nudis to whitetip sharks. On Oahu’s North Shore, take on the
The north requires slightly more skill, with rockier entries that can call for better balance, patience and planning. NO OVERHEAD CONCERNS Every bit of Bonaire’s coast is either part of the national marine park, a marine reserve or a no-take zone. Spearfishing and collecting are prohibited. Best of all, the island has outlawed personal-watercraft rentals. Together, these restrictions make Bonaire one of the most scenic, fish-filled and headache-free dive getaways on the planet. HOUSE PARTY Dive centers in Bonaire seem to come standard with a house reef. Resorts such as Buddy Dive have clearwater real estate yards from where staff
READERS CHOICE WINNERS
Capt. Don’s Habitat, Bonaire habitatbonaire.com
The best operators, resorts and liveaboards to get you this experience in these destinations, as chosen by readers.
Dive Oahu, Hawaii diveoahu.com
BEST DIVE RESORTS
Buddy Dive Resort, Bonaire buddydive.com Capt. Don’s Habitat, Bonaire habitatbonaire.com Divi Flamingo Beach Resort & Casino, Bonaire diviresorts.com
Jack’s Diving Locker, Hawaii jacksdivinglocker .com Kona Honu Divers, Hawaii konahonudivers .com Dive Maui, Hawaii goscubadivemaui .com BEST LIVEABOARDS
Kona Aggressor II aggressor.com
BEST DIVE OPERATORS
Buddy Dive, Bonaire buddydive.com
Firehouse Cathedrals to see beams of light pouring into rooms where whitetip sharks lie sleeping.
FLORIDA SPRINGS ALL ARE WELCOME Florida’s springs might have the reputation of being only for trained cave divers. Certainly, the more advanced stretches of caves are. But places such as Ginnie Springs, in the town of High Springs, two hours north of Orlando by car, are great for open-water divers. They can explore 120 feet of linear penetration into the cave, down to 55 feet, and into the cavern’s big ballroom. The nearby Little Devil, Devil’s Ear and Devil’s Eye, all part of the Devil’s Spring System, are also open to OW divers, provided they don’t carry a light — meaning they stay in areas where overhead sunlight grants visibility. PERFECT PLATFORM Most of the concessions operating near Florida’s springs have made a business of making their spot as comfortable and accessible as possible. Wooden walkways, large wooden platforms at the entry point, and facilities within yards of the entry all make for ease of use. Blue Grotto Dive Resort, in the town of Williston, also a two-hour drive north of Orlando, offers these amenities, plus barbecue grills, picnic areas and even cabins should you choose to overnight. S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M JULY 2018 / 69
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When to Go Summer and fall are generally best for the sea conditions required to dive weather-dependent Big Sur.
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Dive Conditions Drysuits are recommended for the 45 to 55 degree water. Current is unpredictable and can be strong, just like the surge. This is advanced intermediate to extreme diving.
DR I V E
Operators Monterey Blue Diving (monterey blue.com) is a great choice for customized day trips. Truth Aquatics (truthaquatics.net) runs multiday liveaboard trips each June.
features a huge kelp forest, canyons and mini walls in 75 to 100 feet with abundant anemones, sea stars, rockfish and lingcod. The latter site showcases dozens of playful sea lions keen to volunteer as dive buddies. The goggle-eyed aqua acrobats are so entertaining, some people never see the rest of the site. Cap a perfect day by masquerading as tourists. Drive south on Highway 1 to catch the sunset, gaze out to the speck of ocean you explored, then celebrate in style atop the cliffs at Nepenthe or Rocky Point Restaurant.
Tourists flock to this jagged stretch of California coast for photo ops, but the views are even better underwater BY BRANDON COLE
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illions of tourists visit Big Sur, the über-scenic stretch of central California’s coastline with plunging cliffs and craggy rocks jutting from the sea. Their focus is driving the winding roadway, not diving into the wild Pacific Ocean beside it. Even among scuba die-hards who regularly dive nearby Monterey, only a couple hundred each year plunge into Big Sur’s sometimes surly, often fog-shrouded waters. It’s truly an underappreciated diving frontier for those ready for a challenge. IF YOU HAVE ONE DAY Undergo your Big Sur baptism at Diablo Pinnacles and Lobos Rocks. The former
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Above: A variety of anemones abound off Big Sur, while blue rockfish enjoy the scenery.
Monterey 1
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Andrew Molera State Park
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
Big Sur 1
IF YOU HAVE THREE DAYS For maximum bottom time in difficult-toaccess territory south of Point Sur, book a multiday Truth Aquatics liveaboard trip to dive stunning sites such as Haystacks and Pfeiffer Pinnacle. Maybe you’ll even take home a lump of real jade as a souvenir from Jade Cove. Tec divers with top-notch skills will pray to jump on deep, legendary Schmeider Bank. An alternative three-day strategy is to dive your brains out for two days, then relax and experience Monterey above the waves — kayak, whale-watch, visit Monterey Bay Aquarium, and wine and dine along Cannery Row.
BRANDON COLE
BIG SUR
IF YOU HAVE TWO DAYS Hop on Monterey Blue Diving’s inflatable to get out to Flintstones fast. Plummet from 60 to beyond 150 feet down a monolithic wall decorated with vibrant sponges, tunicates, zoanthids, orange and purple hydrocorals, and gorgonians. Next, swim through imposing granite portals at Twin Arches, or concentrate on No Name Reef’s marvelous macro — nudis, painted greenlings sheltering in spotted rose anemones, decorator crabs and strawberry anemone fields forever. Save enough energy to hike in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park or horseback-ride along the beach in Andrew Molera State Park.
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APO 29, APO REEF Apo Reef Natural Park is the world’s second-largest contiguous coral reef after the Great Barrier Reef. And when the current is running at Apo 29, the stellar site attracts schooling barracuda, reef sharks, manta rays and even hammerheads.
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PUERTO PRINCESA SUBTERRANEAN RIVER The island of Palawan is impressive in any direction you look, but there’s something fascinating about heading underground. At this national park, float through a subterranean river that flows into the South China Sea while ogling the bats and swiftlets careening through the air.
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SECRET BAY, ANILAO The density of bizarre critters — wonderpus octopuses, mantis shrimp, bobbit worms and ghost pipefish, to name a few — make this site a favorite with muck divers and photographers. You can see it all between depths of just 10 and 70 feet, making for long bottom times too.
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BY TERRY WARD
MONAD SHOAL, MALAPASCUA ISLAND Threshers, threshers and more threshers. This drop-off dive site near Malapascua Island, off the tip of Cebu Island, is the best place in the world for reliably spotting the sleek sharks with a scythe-like tail. The top of the reef is full of cleaning stations frequented by the animals, spotted here year-round.
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THE CAGAYAN DE ORO RIVER It’s like a topside drift dive! Depending on your experience, you can opt to raft down class one and two or class three and four rapids. With a total of 21 rapids, the beautiful river on Mindanao is considered the premier whitewater-rafting destination in the Philippines.
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DIVERS GUIDE
OLYMPIA MARU, CORON BAY The Philippines’ answer to Truk Lagoon, Coron Bay in Palawan has the best wreck diving in Southeast Asia. Clouds of fish swarm the cargo hold of the Olympia Maru, one of over a dozen wrecks to dive in the compact lagoon. The Japanese cargo ship was sunk by U.S. aircraft in 1944 and sits upright at about 90 feet.
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AMOS ROCK, TUBBATAHA REEF A UNESCO World Heritage site, Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park is considered among the world’s most pristine coral reefs. Fin alongside the gorgonian-carpeted wall at Amos Rock while watching patrolling reef sharks and thousands of reef fish flitting like tossed confetti.
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AVERAGE WATER TEMP From 81 to 85 degrees F WHAT TO WEAR 3 mm wetsuit or shorty WHEN TO GO Year-round; December through May best for weather MORE INFO atmosphere resorts.com; experiencephilippines.org; islandcruiseadventure.com
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MANTA BOWL, TICAO Use a reef hook to stay put while watching the manta action at this killer site off Ticao. An underwater shoal loaded with cleaning and feeding stations attracts the winged beauties and sometimes, if you get lucky, whale sharks too.
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MANILA’S CHINATOWN Should you get waylaid in Manila on your way to your dive destination, it’s worth heading to Binondo, the city’s lively Chinatown district, for a fun foodie tour. Fill up on delicious specialties such as pork and leek dumplings, Chinese pancakes and pork floss.
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ISLAND HOPPING The towering karst islands surrounding El Nido on Palawan are as Instagram-worthy as landscapes get. And the best way to explore the area’s crystal-clear lagoons and small islets is on multiday sailing expeditions that stop to let you snorkel, visit lost caves, and bliss out on lonely beaches.
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TERRY WARD got certified in Florida’s springs for a college course, and has since dived everywhere from Halmahera, Indonesia, to Norway’s icy Svalbard archipelago.
MAP ILLUSTRATION: STUART HILL
PHILIPPINES Finding paradise in a country of 7,000-plus islands isn’t difficult, but it helps a diver to know where to go
DEFINE YOUR TRAINING
Find a NAUI facility or instructor at naui.org/locate-dive-centers/
Salem Alrashidi
Define your diving beyond the basics with NAUI Worldwide, a leader in diver education since 1960. Offering courses in freediving, citizen science diving, underwater digital imaging, wreck diving, and more, NAUI training gives you unlimited access to explore the underwater world.
naui.org