PROCESS ANALYSIS DOCUMENT FOR CAPSULE COLLECTION by LESLIE ANSA

LESIE ANSA PROCESS ANALYSIS DOCUMENT ‘The MixTape’

CAPSULE COLLECTION [ The MixTape ]

TABLE OF CONTENT

1. RESEARCH

BA FASHION YEAR 3 : SEMESTER 2 E19CA/CB

2. DESIGN PROCESS

PROCESS ANALYSIS DOCUMENT

3. OUTFIT 1 -TOILE -CONSTRUCTION OF FINAL GARMENTS

COURSE TEAM : Justine Head, Jill Martin, Chantelle Morton, Nigel Buckner, Fouad E Georges

4. OUTFIT 2 -TOILE -CONSTRUCTION OF FINAL GARMENTS 5. CAPSULE COLLECTION LINE UP 6. STYLING / PHOTOSHOOT / PRESENTATION 7. COSTING / BIBLIOGRAPHY

RESEARCH

HCRAESER

My project titled luxury and urban, began with a visit to the Tate. We were asked to go and research for source of inspiration, to fuel the concept and aesthetics which I had already established in the last semester. I saw an art exhibition by Magdalena Abanakowicz, titled embryology. The artist made massive potato bag like object, which was basically stuffed sacks, made of patched fabrics, scattered within a radius of the exhibition room.

HCRAESER

RESEARCH

HCRAESER

I was attracted to Magdalena Abanakowicz, even though I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know her prior to my visit to the tate, it made me decide to research a bit more into circular objects and shapes, like yayoi kusamaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s polka dots, and eventually I discovered the crop circles after a long quest for rounded or circular objects to derive inspiration from.

HCRAESER

RESEARCH

HCRAESER

RESEARCH

Crop circles or crop formation are geometric patterns created out of flattening of crops, most especially cereal. There are suggestions that crop circles could be made out of natural causes, or of an alien origin, but there has been no scientific proof for either of those suggestions, and human causes are consistent for all crop circles. RESEARCH

I decided to research a bit more into crop circles and it mysteries, which ultimately became a major source of inspiration for my collection.

HCRAESER

RESEARCH

The next phase of my project was an extensive research into the concept of Urban and Luxury, which ultimately is the foundation of the collection. I also had to research on designers that might have incorporated or fused these concepts to inpsire a collection. I looked at the works of designers like; Sophie Hardeman, Michiko Moshino, Hussein Chalayan, Walter Van Beirendonck as well as Viktor. I also had to research into the trends by collecting visuals that could inform my design development, creatively fusing both concepts. Sophie Hardeman

HCRAESER

Michiko Koshino

Hussein Chalayan

Walter Van Beirendonck

Viktor & Rolf

RESEARCH

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

I started experimenting with paper samples inspired by circular and rounded shapes, which is an extracted element from my research revelling with different ways which I could practically express these wonderful ideas. I placed my paper samples on different parts of the mannequin creating astonishing silhouette, as well as photographically recording the process. These initial experiments, catalysed some design concepts which I scribbled down roughly, and i developed them much later. SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

Rough sketches from my initial Research and sampling, inspired these design developments which i would then explore further to realise my concept.

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

I spent a lot of time thinking about how I wanted my project to turn out, but I was delaying myself and at the same time restricting my creative instinct. I was worried about page layouts in my sketchbook, as well as contextualising my work appropriately, and all these factors slowed down my pace, and I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do much at a particular period. I had a review with my HOD, and after she looked at what I had done so far, she advised and gave me hint on how to approach my work, coupled with managing my time effectively.

DESIGN PROCESS

These review help me to break loose from the captivity I put myself which i was trying not to go wrong, and at the same time limiting what I could do, but then I decided to be a bit bold and courageous, and tried to push my concept a bit further. I struggled with my fabric choice and colour, and I felt restricted because we had to choose one colour out of selection of three, but then I realised that I could work with different shades of grey which is amongst the selection we were given. Having decided on colour, I progressed to creating actual fabric sample from my rough sketches of my research, and actually molding the circular shapes which I had been working on.

SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

Pattern experimentation with an exaggerated functional sleeve, interlined to create circular molds in 2 or 3 dimensional structures. I decided to experiment with my designs in f abric, positioning my structural molds in different ways, and photographically recording the developmental stages.

SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

At this stage i was stuck on how to continue my project. i had too much on my mind and i couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t concentrate on the most important things, so i found myself in this bubble of an exaggerated sleeve, and i couldnt at the time figure out how else to push my concept further.

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

Old Sketchbook

DESIGN PROCESS

At some point my project seem to be going well with my sketchbook developing, but on the contrary, the level of work which I had put into my sketchbook was sort of on the wrong direction. I had an honest feedback from my tutor and she called my attention to the problem with my sketchbook. In her words â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;this book looks like a book about circlesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rather than a fashion sketchbook and it lacked a fashion identity.

I was sad and disappointed in myself, because I was running out of time with the rest of the project, and I also had an important engagement which was going to take the bulk of my time In a few weeks. The review made me think deeper, and I decided to start my sketchbook all over again.

Old Sketchbook

SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

SSECORP NGISED

I had to look back at the concepts of the straps from the biker jacket in my first semester project, as well as my rounded molded structure and I decided to reinvent my ideas in a more interesting way in my sketchbook, which also fuelled a new range of pattern experimentation as well as design development and my sketchbook was rejuvenated.

New Skectchbook

SSECORP NGISED

DESIGN PROCESS

Toile / Design Development

Outfit 1

I progressed to digitally developing my rough sketch for my first outfit of the collection. Based on my research on Urban & Luxury, I found Sophie Hardemanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expression with the denim dungarees quiet interesting, and I was inspired to scribble down some of my thought process, which I then drew digitally. I incorporated my influence of rounded and circular shapes into this skirt, with a dungarees styled traps.

Toile / Design Development

Outfit 1

First stage of Toile development. created my rounded mould and inserted into the skirt block. Toile / Design Development

Cut out holes in the mould to access the pockets on the garment. Toile / Design Development

Toile / Design Development

Outfit 1

I encountered a couple of problems with the construction of my toile, due to some irregular calculations my side moulds did not align properly and one side was shorter than the other after stitching all the panels together. I took note of the stitch error, and corrected it the pattern before I made the original version. Stitch Error Toile / Design Development

Toile / Design Development

Garment Construction

Outfit 1 Panels for Dungarees

Garment Construction

Outfit 1

Garment Construction

Outfit 1 Dungarees

Garment Construction

Outfit 1 Loose Fit Top

Garment Construction

Outfit 1

Garment Construction

Outfit 2 Jacket

Garment Manufacture

Garment Construction

Outfit 2 Jacket

Garment Manufacture

Garment Construction

Outfit 2 Jacket

Garment Construction

Outfit 2 Trouser

Garment Construction

Outfit 2 Trouser

Garment Construction

Outfit 2 Top

Garment Construction

Capsule Collection FRONT

Capsule Collection

Capsule Collection BACK

Capsule Collection

PhotoShoot OutFit 1

PhotoShoot

PhotoShoot OutFit 1

PhotoShoot OutFit 2