VOLUME 18 - JANUARY 2011
OCEAN TERRACE Spotlight
Naughty Nuri’s Warung Batubelig
Healthy Food
Desa Seni Arts Village
Celebrating Seafood
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contents
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spotlight Naughty Nuri’s Warung Batubelig Naughty but Nice 12. NEW ENTRIES 16. LOCAL CUISINE Warung Babi Guling Sanur; A Balinese Favorite 20. Market place KOU CUISINE; Naturally Sweet 24. FOOD STORY Nachos
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cover story
Ocean Terrace, The Laguna, A luxury Collection Resort &Spa, Nusa Dua Celebrating Seafood 38. New restaurant Kemayangan; Seafood Surprise 42. GREAT DEAL Warung Makan Campur Campur Ibu Widya; Nusantara Home Cooking
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healthy food Desa Seni Arts Village Natural Wellbeing
50. THE SPECIALIST Chef Greg C Lawrence; For the Love of Food! Chef I Nyoman Suastika; Oriental and Western Philosphy 54. LET’S COOK Rujak Gula 56. THIRST QUENCHERS Coffee & ..... Lounging!
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Dessert Ultimo An Italian Affair
64. wine knowledge The Three Musicians 66. HOW TO SAY... 67. directory 76. PICK UP POINT Cover: Seafood Platter Photo by Heri Obrink Location: Ocean Terrace www.letseatmag.com
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editor’s note
Ocean Terrace
Hello and welcome to the January edition of Let’s Eat! Magazine. I hope you all enjoyed the Christmas break and indulged in the finest food on the island. The festive season may be behind us, but Bali’s fabulous array of restaurants, warungs, hotels and resorts, means eating is always cause for celebration, and our team enjoyed yet another month of tracking down the island’s best dining options. Seafood lovers will like our cover story this month as we introduce the exquisite selection of seafood on offer at Ocean Terrace, the signature restaurant at The Laguna A Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua. We also sample the spicy crab at Kemayangan in Kuta and head to Sanur to eat Bali’s most famous dish Babi Guling (Roast suckling pig). At Naughty Nuri’s Warung in Batubelig we find tasty Barbecue Ribs, potent Martinis and cheeky décor. It’s then on to Desa Seni Arts Village for an innovative lunch featuring organic fruit and vegetables picked fresh from their flourishing gardens. Happy New Year and as always Bon appetit
Hendra Oktaviano Editor In-Chief
E-mail Us: Send your letters to info@letseatmag.com if you have any suggestions or thoughts regarding the recent issue of this magazine or if you simply wish to share your travel experience related to food and beverage on the island. Letters chosen for publication may be edited for brevity and clarity purposes.
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writers
Alison
Is a travel writer and self confessed food-lover, who has spent many years traveling the globe, immersing herself in foreign cultures and sampling local cuisine, applying her motto ‘everything should be tried at least once.’ She has also worked in a number of roles within the food and beverage industry, most recently in Fiji as the manager of an exclusive resort famous for its gourmet cuisine. Her heart has now been captured by Bali where she is happily indulging her favorite things; discovering new restaurants; writing; and enjoying the beach. \AB
Senior Advisor Managing Director Editor-in-Chief TA Bid Business Development Writers
Senior Graphic Designer TA Bid Graphic Designer Graphic Designer Photographer Account Director Account Executive
Web Guys
Meita
Is a freelance creative worker with a long standing history in the entertainment industry, including stints in television, radio and publishing. She also formed an all girls punk band in the 90’s, owned a music agency and directed an animal foundation. Still, her biggest passion is writing. She started as a Writer and Producer at Hard Rock Radio Jakarta. Other roles include; Chief Editor of The Beat Magazine Jakarta; Indo editor of The Beat Magazine Bali and regular contributions to IP Entertainment. When asked to join Lets Eat team her comment; “I should be careful not to get fat!” \MK
Formerly worked full-time on the editorial team of a local tourism magazine, but found the life of a freelance writer suits her best and allows her to follow her passions in life, writing and travelling – while worshiping the beauty of nature at the same time. \AM
Dirtribution & Circulation
Food and Beverage Advisor
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Mahendra Ari Gunawan Hendra Oktaviano Alison Elizabeth Bone Meita Kasim Ari Mustikawati Inggita Kasim Karena van Maanen Kenyo Cakti Heri Obrink Taufiq TQ Rendy Rustam Lidya Julianty Wayan Budiyasa Yunata Octaviano Tommy S Heriadi Agung Selly I Wayan Wartana I Nyoman Supartika I Nyoman Susila Henry A Bloem
Office Khrisna Building II, 2nd Floor Jalan Raya Kuta 88R Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia
Ph +62 361 961 0066 Fax +62 361 762 241 info@letseatmag.com www.letseatmag.com www.kivm.co.id
Let’s Eat! Magazine is published monthly under the direction of PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by the editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Let’s Eat! are reserved by PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Let’s Eat! is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. c 2010 Let’s Eat! ISSN 2085-5907
Ari A Member of
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new entries
Conquering The Challenge Banyan Tree Ungasan, Bali proudly achieved the runner-up position in the MLA Black Box Culinary Challenge 2010, held at Nikko Bali Resort and Spa. Competing teams were given a black box containing various items and then had 24 hours to present a 3 course meal. Chef de Cuisine Mandif Membrano Warokka, Chef de Partie Antonious Agung Suryandita, Commis Deni Sugiarto and Demi Chef de Partie I Putu Agus Subawayasa impressed the judges with their talent and team work. Banyan Tree Ungasan, Jalan Melasti Banjar Kelod, Ungasan, Phone +62 361 300 7000 \AM
Bulgari, Sweeps Away the Award! The Bulgari Hotel and Resort Bali team took away gold at The Meat and Livestock Australia (MLA) Black Box Culinary Challenge 2010 during the gala dinner held at the Nikko Bali Resort & Spa in November. In addition to winning the first prize, Bulgari also swept away two additional awards during the prestigious world class competition, supported by Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP). Bulgari Hotels & Resorts Bali, Jalan Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu, Phone +62 361 848 1000 \AM
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Shine
with t he Aw ard
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new entries Follow the Jaks! Following it’s first and second outlet on Kuta Sidewalk and Sanur, Flapjaks recently launched a third outlet at Kuta Beach, the most iconic place to visit in Bali. Flapjaks Kuta Beach offers their most acclaimed pancakes, waffles, smoothies and various flavours of gelato to enjoy while watching the golden sunset falling over Kuta Beach! Flapjaks Kuta Beach, Jalan Pantai Kuta, Phone +62 765 673 \AM
Aston SOS! To ensure guest safety and comfort, Aston at Grand Kuta Hotel and Residence conducted a two day First Aid Training course, including CPR for all their staff. Aston at Grand Kuta Hotel and Residence, Jalan Dewi Sri, Legian, Phone +62 361 300 0888 \AM
WIne and iPad? Kayuputi Restaurant has been recognised, for the second year running, with the prestigious Award of Excellence, by the world known Wine Spectator Magazine. In winning this award and to continue to offer inspiring experiences to guests, Kayuputi is proudly introducing its extensive range of wines on an iPad, all put together by Sommelier Harald Wiesmann – the man who knows the perfect wine for your palate! The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, Phone +62 361 847 8111 \AM
The Leading Airport Hotel in Bali! The Patra Bali Resort & Villas has been named Indonesia’s Leading Airport Hotel by the Ministry of Culture & Tourism, and Indonesia Travel & Tourism Award (ITTA) Foundation. The award was announced at the Indonesia Travel & Tourism Award Gala Dinner in Jakarta. The Patra Bali Resort & Villas, Jalan Ir. H. Juanda, Kuta, Phone +62 361 751 161 \AM
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Halal Food at Aston Denpasar Aston Denpasar Hotel & Convention Center recently obtained a “Halal” Certificate from Majelis Ulama Indonesia for their food and beverage products. They are the first four star hotel in Denpasar to receive this certification. Aston Denpasar Hotel & Convention Center, Jalan Gatot Subroto Barat 283, Denpasar, Phone +62 361 411 999 \AM
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local cuisine
Warung Babi Guling Sanur
A Balinese Favorite Ni Wayan Peni & Ibu Cok La
Babi Guling or suckling pig, is Bali’s most famous dish. Ask a Balinese person what their favorite food is and there is a good chance they’ll say “Bali Guling.”
I
ndonesia is a Muslim country, so pork isn’t enjoyed on other islands, as it is here in Bali where the population is mostly Hindu. The Balinese often keep pigs behind the house, feeding them on food scraps for that important time when they will be killed and eaten, usually when still young, as suckling pig is particularly tender. It will then be spitroasted to perfection.
Warung Babi Guling Sanur has enjoyed a reputation as the best in Sanur since it first opened in 1985. Today the place is packed with a swarm of local Balinese, guests from Jakarta, Asians tourists, and Dutch expatriates, so we are lucky to get a table! Ibu Cok La herself is there, looking busy behind the counter, and we can’t wait to taste the best Babi Guling in Sanur!
You can see Babi Guling restaurants all over the island and each area has its favorite Ubud has Babi Guling Ibu Oka; Denpasar has Babi Guling Chandra; and Nusa Dua has Babi Guling Dobil. But today we are visiting Warung Babi Guling Sanur!
Finally it arrives – the festive Nasi Babi Guling. The plate is filled with pork goodies – fillets of tender sucking pig, fried pork, pork satay, fried pork organs, pork sausage, fried ground nuts, and pork skin crackers. There is also pork and young jackfruit soup, urapan, vegetables in coconut shred, steamed white rice and sambal matah. It disappears pretty quickly, and Inggita our graphic designer
Propelled by Ibu Cok La and continued by her oldest daughter Ibu Ni Wayan Peni;
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Nasi Babi Guling
Pork Satay
Homemade Pig Skin Crackers
Ayam Betutu
says that the pork sausage is the best she ever had. I personally enjoy the sweet and spicy Pork Satay so much that I have to order a full portion. The recipe for this red satay was created by first daughter Ni Wayan Peni. “I experimented a lot before coming up with the perfect taste,” she says while joining us at the table. “Today I just got an order for 200 pieces from Jakarta,” she adds proudly. If pork is not your thing, try the Ayam Betutu, Chicken with Balinese Spice Mixture. Smoky, strongly spiced, tender chicken served with urapan, vegetables in coconut shred, telur pindang, steamed egg, and fried ground nuts, and sambal matah. We accompany our meal with homemade pig skin crackers and a fresh icy orange juice.
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Orange Juice
For the taste of authentic Babi Guling, make sure you stop by this simple yet lively warung. Mind you, make sure to come early on New Year’s Eve – it gets so full that they have to open their house in the back to accommodate all the hungry people. \MK
Warung Babi Guling Sanur Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai 256, Sanur Phone +62 361 287 308 Opening Hours 11am – 09pm Seating 44 Sanur Map B - 3 www.letseatmag.com
market place
K
ou means aroma in Japanese and this sweet little shop tucked into Monkey Forest Road in Ubud presents a range of exquisite homemade jams and sea salt utilizing the natural bounty of Bali. KOU Jams are made using the freshest of hand selected island fruits which are then slow cooked to preserve the natural sweetness. Pectin and citrus acid are the only additives. The bright and modern shop features attractive pale timber shelves hosting neat stacks of dainty jars topped with linen, and jars of Kusamba sea salt. There are cute knitted pouches for the jams, paper gift bags and an assortment of boxed sets and baskets. We head straight to the tasting table and slowly work through the whole range. The chunky Pineapple and Guava is a good combination, with the guava taking the edge off the sweet pineapple. The Passionfruit and Tangerine is tangy and syrupy; Apple Cinnamon is like apple pie in a jar, while the bestselling Mango provides a pure taste of the tropics. Grape & Buni has the most unusual flavor; buni is a small fruit native to Bali, similar to cranberry it has a slightly sour taste and is often used in jam. It is good, but I have to say the Milk Caramel is my favorite with the taste and texture of thick gooey melted toffee. I am tempted to buy some, but don’t know if I could be trusted not to eat the whole jar in one seating.
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The sea salt range comes from Kusamba, a village in the east of Bali that is well known for making sea salt with traditional methods that preserve the natural goodness of seawater minerals. The flavor is delicate and smooth, more mellow and less salty than regular table salt. The Herb Sea Salt is mixed with rosemary and basil and this alone would make an excellent seasoning for many dishes. A rail in the corner is hung with long classic aprons made from natural linen, and some cute children’s aprons. Jenggala ceramic table ware and Ate woven table mats and trays can also be purchased. A small sample
from the KOU soap range is also on display; homemade soap individually made using a traditional process where it is aged for two months. The essential oils and plants used in this range are all grown in Bali. Minty Green, Sweet Orange and Vanilla Heaven are just some of the choices, look our for the Candy Box set with small cubes of soap wrapped in a candy like twist. A second KOU shop with the full range of KOU soaps is located on Jl Dewi Sita, Ubud. During our visit to KOU CUISINE a number of people wonder in, one couple carrying a Lonely Planet Guide, which recommends the shop. No one leaves empty handed! \AB
KOU CUISINE Jalan Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Ph +62 361 972 319 Open 9am - 8pm Ubud Map B - 3
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food story
As time went on, the tasty treat became known as Nachos in honor of its creator. Nachos eventually caught on in all of the Mexican restaurants in Texas becoming a classic Tex Mex item, but up until 1976 Nachos were prepared the original way chef Nacho had made them which was costly and time consuming. Recently, the advent of packaged tortilla chips and ready made cheese sauce, together with more specialized serving equipment have made Nachos a very popular and inexpensive fast-
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o to almost any holiday destinations around the world and you will find Nachos. What started out in 1943, as an hors d’oeuvre in a restaurant in the small town of Piedras Negras, Coahuila, Mexico, close to the border of Texas, is now a worldwide sensation. As legend has it, A maitre d’ called Nacho (short for Iqnacio) was creating various snacks and hors d’oeuvres for his guests one day, and decided to deepfry corn tortilla wedges which he then covered in melted cheddar cheese and pickled jalapeño peppers.
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food snack item. A modified version of the dish, with permanently soft cheese and pre-made tortilla chips was marketed by a man named Frank Liberto beginning in 1977, during sporting events at Arlington Stadium, Texas. This version of nachos became known as “Ball Park Nachos.” During a Monday Night Football game, sportscaster Howard Cosell enjoyed the name “nachos”, and made a point of mentioning the dish in his broadcasts over the following weeks, further popularizing the snack and introducing it to a whole new audience. The recipe for the original nachos is very simple. Cut a stack of corn tortillas into 4 wedges, fry them in about an http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_aaJEXTY1dRs/S8fm-W0db1I/AAAAAAAABHQ/0WXeBMDpHPQ/s1600/nachos31.jpg
inch of vegetable oil till crisp, place on a baking sheet and top liberally with cheddar cheese, and jalapeno pepper slices. Nachos with an abundance of toppings are sometimes called “loaded nachos” or “super nachos”, usually served as an appetizer at bars or restaurants in the United States and generally tend to be as sizable as a meal. The dish is normally prepared in this manner: The tortilla chips are arranged on a platter, meat and refried bean toppings are then added, and the entire platter is smothered with shredded cheese. The platter is then put into an oven or microwave to allow the cheese to melt. Toppings include ground beef, chicken, chili con carne, onions, salsa, guacamole, sour cream, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles. In Bali Nachos are just as popular as anywhere else and can be found in many restaurants and bars. If reading this article has given you a craving for this all time Mexican classic, then Let’s Eat! is happy to share its favorite nacho places.... Mojo’s Flying Burritos, Mama’s, Naughty Nuri’s Warung, Jazz Bar and Grille and Hard Rock Café. Buen Provecho! \MK http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4706538182_fcaa8277d2_o_d.png
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spotlight
Barbecue Pork Ribs Nachos
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F
or the past fifteen years Naughty Nuri’s Warung Ubud has been luring people with it’s legendary barbecue pork ribs and wicked martinis. Finally Nuri’s has made it to the beach, with the opening of a second restaurant on Jalan Batubelig. It’s easy to find just look for the sidewalk barbecue and a lively crowd. Eva is our vibrant hostess and tells us that she and husband Bruno would regularly make the drive up to Naughty Nuri’s in Ubud and became good friends with the owners Nuri and Brian. Eventually they asked if they
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could open a branch down in Seminyak, and the rest, as they say is history. While much of the same menu is in place, Bruno, a French chef has added some ‘Batubelig twists.” However die-hard Nuri’s fans will be pleased to know that the famous barbecue pork ribs are just the same. As Eva says, “We wouldn’t dare change such an infamous recipe.” The Martinis too are faithful to Nuri’s originals and every bit as lethal. The laid back atmosphere, breezy terrace and big chunky wooden tables are reminiscent of Ubud, but the Batubelig
branch definitely has its own personality. Eva, an interior designer has obviously had a lot of fun creating a comfortable space that is rich with quirky details and imbued with irreverent naughtiness. Ornamental pigs turn up on the tables, the bar and the walls, while a flying pig dangles over the entrance. The lamps she created out of aluminum buckets and glass beads were torched – to give them a barbecued look. Fulfilling a secret fantasy to be a graffiti artist she then spray painted her kids names across the base of the bar. The graffiti theme continues in the bathroom which has a blackboard for people
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Naked Shrek
to scribble the kind of naughty things that you often find on the back of toilet doors. Another blackboard next to the bar lists famous Martini drinkers; James Bond, Ernest Hemmingway, Billy Wilder, below which is NNW’s Hall of Infamy – if you drink four Martinis and are still able to hold a piece of chalk, you can add your own name. Behind the bar is a sign ‘Drink Responsibly, We Want You Back (hic).’ Rather apt in view of the self proclaimed “Brutal Martinis,” a glass of straight up, shaken not stirred pure naughtiness with five shots of Absolut, or gin served with an olive or a twist. Margaritas are also popular, but I am quickly seduced by the Naked Shrek a refreshing, dark green grassy looking drink dense with fresh mint, Bacardi, gin and lots of lemon. A generous plate of Nachos accompanies our cocktails, crispy fried tortilla chips and homemade refried beans, laden with tangy salsa, cheese and big juicy jalapenos.
Bebek Goreng
As our Ribs sizzle on the barbecue, we try the French influenced Bebek Goreng. This innovative and tasty dish features Duck confit prepared and baked French style, then fried Bali style, the result is crispy salty skin and flavorful succulent flesh. The Ribs are huge, tender and meaty, basted in Naughty Nuri’s much loved, highly sought after and slightly sweet secret sauce (staff have to sign a confidentiality agreement.) Other grilled delights include The 200 day grain fed Black Angus Steak, Tuna Steak and Gourmet Sausages. Indonesian dishes and burgers are also offered, and the homemade sambal makes a spicy and delicious addition to everything. We finish with a seriously good Cheesecake that is light, fluffy and gelatin free, drizzled with crunchy passion fruit pulp. Cheeky tee shirts and other items are for sale and gift certificates are available.
Cheesecake
I read on the menu that this is a “Funky street side haven especially for the naughty but nice people in Bali.” You don’t need to be naughty to enjoy Nuri’s but come hungry and don’t forget to bring your sense of humor. \AB NAUGHTY NURIS Jalan Batubelig 41, Kerobokan Ph +62 361 847 6722 Open 11am – 10pm. Seat 80+ Seminyak Map A - 1
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cover story
OCEAN TERRACE
Celebrating Seafood
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Beef Tenderloin
C
andle light, beachside tables, the murmur of waves lapping on the shore, a pianist playing classical music on a grand piano….. Settings don’t get much more romantic than this. Throw in a menu inspired by Bali’s freshest seafood catch, and you have Ocean Terrace, the signature restaurant of The Laguna A Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua. The water theme is all pervasive at The Laguna, with absolute beach frontage, and seven swimming pools sprawling over 5000 square meters. Seafood fits the theme well, although the menu also includes Indonesian and Continental influenced meat, poultry and vegetarian dishes. But it’s the ocean catch that has reeled us in and we are soon indulging in all sorts of delicacies, starting with the a la carte menu and finishing with the seafood barbecue buffet.
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Sushi Set
Pistachio Gateau
The Last Cocktail
But first, a sunset cocktail. I have to say that ‘The Cocktail Collection by the Luxury Collection’ is truly a sight (not to mention taste) to behold. Where to begin? A Snakefruit Amarezza, Grapefruit Sangria, Tamarillo Seductive….. or maybe The Anastasia with it’s blend of vodka, pomegranate puree, rosemary infused agave and champagne? My eventual choice of The Last Cocktail proves to be excellent. A thoughtfully contrived gin based elixir blended with pear and prosecco and infused with rosemary and cloves. It is aromatic, wonderfully herby and refreshingly unique. Moving on to starters, there are dainty little Tuna Oyster Rolls, fresh thinly sliced tuna encasing an oyster and topped with a tangy ceviche bursting with coriander, lemon and chili. The Sushi Set is served with classic Japanese minimalism, but there is nothing minimalist in the taste. The Sashimi on ice, and the chilled, caviar-topped sushi rolls filled with pickled daikon are simply lovely. An impressive stack of Clams follows, lightly sautéed with ribbons of bell peppers, butter, cream and white wine. The Seafood Platter would satiate the most ardent of seafood lovers, with the exquisite freshness and flavor of whole lobster, Padi Padi (a type of snapper,) succulent king prawns, clams and tender squid. In a brief divergence from seafood, there is also a Beef Tenderloin served with a beef Jus, and shitake mushroom ravioli doused in truffle foam.
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Tuna Oyster Roll
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Clamps
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Then it’s more seafood as we wander over to the barbecue, which is available nightly and includes sea bass, prawns, clams and squid. There is also a wide choice of rice, including the nutty and nutritious beras merah (red rice,) and a boat shaped buffet with a striking display of prawn cocktails, salads and mussels on ice. At Rp. 299,000++ it makes exceptionally good value. The ‘Wines of the World’ list has a good selection, and also provides a ‘Tasting’
set of three different red or white wines. We finish our meal with a lovely dessert of Pistachio Gateau, a very fine patisserie cream encased in a thin and light sponge, with sides of mango, and strawberries stewed with star anise, brandy snap wafers and mango ice cream. A Trio of wandering minstrels serenades us through dessert. Ocean Terrace is lucky to have two highly talented chefs at the helm, award winning Executive chef, I Made Putra (President
of Bali Culinary Professionals;) and Danish born Executive sous chef Nikolaj Retpen, the newest addition to the Laguna team. So the quality of the food and the innovative menu comes as no surprise. \AB Ocean Terrace The Laguna, A Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua Ph +62 361 771 327 Open 11am -11pm, seat 140 Nusa Dua Map D - 4
Seafood Platter
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p r e s e n t s
enjoy your selection of main course & dessert s a m p l e r p l at e s f o r o n l y
Rp 135.000
NETT/PERSON
THIS PROMOTION IS VALID THRU DECEMBER 2010
JALAN RAYA PANTAI, KUTA BALI RSVP +62 361 766100
new restaurant Black Crab
Fresh Fruit
Kemayangan
seafood surprise K
emayangan translates loosely as ‘great surprise’ and this new, unassuming restaurant, specializing in Peranakan style seafood, is just that! Javanese owners, Bejo and Igan, are old friends who have both traveled extensively across Indonesia and share a love of good food. They also shared a dream of creating a restaurant that served up seafood with a difference - and so Kemayangan was born. Peranakan cuisine dates back to early Chinese migrants who settled in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. This style of cooking blends Chinese ingredients and wok cooking techniques with Malaysian / Indonesian spices. The results are aromatic, bursting with flavor and rather spicy. Key ingredients include coconut milk, galangal, pandan leaves, lemongrass, kaffir lime
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leaves, pepper, chili and ginger. Spices are ground into a thick paste which makes the base for most dishes. Bejo describes the menu as Peranakan style, but infused with a twist. As he points out, Cumi Celaga is a common enough dish in Indonesia, but he wanted to make his version different. The result is a very crispy batter encasing tender squid, with alternating bursts of chili, salt and pepper, an excellent and invigorating dish. Crab is a house specialty and is prepared in four very different styles. The Red Crab is doused with a generous tomato based sauce thickened with egg, and manages to be sweet, sour and fiery, all at the same time. I really enjoy the Black Crab and its peppery sauce – which has a rich creeping flavor – at first it seems mild and slightly sweet but www.letseatmag.com
Cumi Celaga
Red Crab
Tahu Goreng
Ikan Panggang
then the pepper kicks in creating a delightful, rich, lingering warmth. I have never tasted anything quite like this. Fresh fish includes Ikan Panggang, Red Snapper baked in a banana leaf. This whole fish served with eight sambals which basically fall into three categories that I would describe as hot, hotter and ‘oh my god my mouth is on fire hot.’The Gami from Borneo, and the soybased Kecap from Java are particularly good, but the Dabu Dabu, from Manado is my favorite and reminds me of a fresh Mexican salsa, with a mix of finely chopped tomatoes, onions and chili with overtones of fresh lime. The refreshing slices of green mango, cucumber, and kemangi leaves served on the side are excellent for cooling the palate. As is the complimentary dessert of chilled melon balls and cubes of
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Iced Tea
jelly. A simple drinks list includes Bintang, juices, soft drinks and iced tea. The setting is bright, modern and spacious, this is not the place for lingering candlelit dinners and designer cocktails, but if you want to experience authentic Indonesian style seafood and genuine sambals then this is a fine option. The concept is simple, as Bejo says, “I want people to eat a lot of crab then go home with a smile.” \AB
Kemayangan Jalan Merta Nadi 86, Kuta Ph +62 361 743 5500 Open 11am-10pm Seat 50 pax Kuta Map A - 4 www.letseatmag.com
great deal
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ou can hardly miss this place. You have probably seen it as you drive along Sunset road towards Seminyak – a colorful arrow points to the warung and a provocative sign calls out “Stop, makan yuk!” or Stop, Let’s eat! Campur Campur is a family owned warung that offers authentic Indonesian home cooking at a very good price, making it a favorite for locals and expats alike. Specializing in food from Bali, Java and Jakarta, Campur Campur, Seminyak is the second branch of this warung. The first is in Kuta, further down Sunset road. “My mother in-law, Ibu Widya Suganda, created most of the recipes,” says the smiley owner, Ketut Resmawan, whose own love of food led to the creation of this restaurant. “That’s why we call it Campur Campur Ibu Widya – because she used to cook everything herself. Now she only supervises.”
Nasi Campur Jawa
Sop Buntut
The warung has a breezy outdoor terrace, under a traditional bale roof and also an indoor area. You can choose from the ready food buffet on display, or order from the a la carte menu. We head straight to the display and Ketut helps us choose what he calls the typical Nasi Campur Jawa, a delicious combination of white steam rice with rendang sapi (beef), tumis terong teri, eggplant sauteed with dried anchovies, lumpia sayur, vegetable spring rolls, sambal goreng kentang potato fried with chili sauce, and sambal terasi chili shrimp paste. We also choose a Nasi Uduk ala Campur Campur. Nasi uduk is a traditional Indonesian style of cooking rice soaked in coconut milk, rather than water, which creates a lovely flavor. To this was added ayam goreng kriuk, crunchy fried chicken, tumis buncis, sautéed chick peas, tempe manis soybean cake, tumis kacang
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Nasi Uduk ala Campur Campur
Gado Gado
panjang sautéed long beans, bihun, vermicelli, sate lilit ikan, fish satay and terasi.
Rujak Campur Campur
We finish the two plates quickly and just manage to squeeze in some items from the a la carte menu, starting with Sop Buntut an Indonesian style oxtail soup which is incredibly rich and delicious, served with sambal and kecap manis, a mix of palm sugar and soy sauce. At Campur Campur, the Gado-gado, an Indonesian dish comprised of a vegetable salad served with a peanut sauce dressing, is simply and deliciously home styled with a mixture of blanched shredded, chopped, and sliced green vegetables such as cabbage, kang-kung, bean sprouts, young boiled jack fruit, string beans, fried tofu and tempe, boiled potatoes, egg and lontong, rice cakes. Another must try is Bebek Goreng Cabe Hijau, a tasty and tender fried duck thigh served with steamed rice and savory green chili.
Bebek Goreng Cabe Hijau
Es Buah Campur
From the drink list we enjoy the Es Jeruk, sweet orange juice and for desert we try the Rujak Campur Campur, the sweet and spicy fruit salad which is a favorite of many customers. We finish with Es Buah Campur, mixed fruit soaked in shaved ice, syrup, condensed milk and sugar. All food in Campur Campur is served without MSG, which sets it apart from many other warungs. Give it a try – I am sure you’ll like it! \MK WARUNG MAKAN CAMPUR CAMPUR IBU WIDYA Jalan Sunset Seminyak No.18 X Ph +62 361 847 5939 Open 10am – 10pm / Seating 50 Seminyak Map C - 4
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healthy food
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Raw Garden Salad
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esa Seni translates as art village and this extraordinarily pretty boutique wellness resort in Canggu has been set up in the style of an Indonesian village. Antique wooden joglo houses create atmospheric accommodation, and a range of dining options. Co founder Tom describes a vision that incorporated “Farming, yoga, unlimited potential for creativity and integration with the local community.” And slowly but surely, in a true labor of love, he and business partner Howard created Desa Seni. The resort is small, intimate and friendly and visitors are welcome to drop by for an inspiring yoga class in the soaring open air pavilion, be pampered at the Merapu spa, and enjoy creatively healthy food in one of three joglos, Rumah Uma (communal house) Rumah Makan (eating house), Rumah Bendi (Artist Wayan Bendi,) or in the privacy of a pool side bale. We follow a winding, flower filled pathway that leads us through the resort and into Rumah Uma, a quaint teak house from East Java. Bamboo floors, antique furnishings and views over the flourishing gardens add to its charm. The organic vegetable gardens were one of the first projects and local farmers were brought in to oversee the planting, tending and harvesting. These now produce 80% of the fruit and vegetables served up in an array of healthy, unique and tasty dishes. Tom, a seasoned and imaginative chef describes the menu as “Having its own identity,” which is imbued with an “artistic and creative flair that melds western, Mediterranean, Asian and Indonesian cuisine.” Elixirs include the Anti Anxiety Blood Cleanser, a dense green blend of fruit, spinach, celery and coconut, and pure extractions such as Carrot and Beetroot filled with naturally sweet goodness. The Rehydrator, a refreshing blend of watermelon and mint does its job admirably. Thankfully the ‘health’ tag doesn’t preclude alcohol, so a selection of wines and champagnes can be enjoyed with a meal.
Carrot and Beetroot Desa Seni Pizza
The wholesome Raw Garden Salad comes just the way I like a salad, with clearly delineated colourful piles of grated carrots, beets, broccoli and cauliflower florets, cabbage, walnuts and juicy raisins, with a lemon vinaigrette on the side. The vegetables have been picked young and have that unmistakable, fresh from the garden crunchiness. The Desa Seni Pizza is deservedly popular and features a thin slightly chewy base stacked with feta and more of those wonderful vegetables – this time marinated in olive oil, shallots, garden herbs and sea salt, and roasted to sweet perfection. This has to be www.letseatmag.com
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the most nutritious pizza on the island, and health factors aside – it’s totally delicious. We also have a Pasta Primavera with penne pasta and sautéed vegetables doused in white wine, olive oil and a touch of capers. Organic free range chicken, sourced from the north of Bali turns up in the Ayam Kelapa Sandwich, (Balinese Chicken Salad on flat bread,) while Jimbaran fishermen provide the fish and seafood in dishes such as Fresh Calamari with green papaya, mint and peanut dressing and Udang Maluku (grilled shrimp served with a lentil and date salad.) You certainly won’t find anything ordinary on the menu, but that’s hardly a surprise because there is nothing ordinary about Desa Seni. Drop in for a meal, a yoga class, a massage, or stay for a few days and enjoy the innate sense of wellness that comes from just being here. \AB
Pasta Primavera
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DESA SENI, A Village Resort Jalan Subak Sari #13, Pantai Berawa, Canggu Ph. +62 361 844 6392 Open 6.15am – 10pm www.letseatmag.com
the specialist
I Nyoman Suastika
Oriental and Western Philosophy
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Nyoman Suastika’s life has always centered around food. Born and raised in Bali, Suastika began cooking at a very young age, when his mother started her own small ready-to-eat restaurant. From the age of nine he would spend all his free time helping his mother preparing and chopping the ingredients for her customers. “My mother’s natural talent and my father’s sense of art have been the biggest inspiration throughout my career, I would not be involved in the kitchen if it wasn’t for them,” he says.
Realizing that being a chef was his calling, he took his first job as a steward at the Bali Dynasty Resort in 1990. A year later, he became a cook’s helper, and learned to work with countless spices and exotic grains. Suastika’s never ending quest for perfection made him quickly rise through the ranks of his job at the Bali Dynasty Resort. He took on the Executive Chef position in 2009. He also expanded his horizons on several trips to Perth, Australia in order to support the yearly “Back to Bali Dynasty Party,” and the “Perth Holiday & Travel Expo”.
Now as executive chef, Suastika’s menu reflects his personal culinary philosophy – creating Oriental flavor with Western style dishes in a colorful presentation. His specialties include Beef and Guinness Pie, Gracie’s Steak, Mongolian Stir Fry and Charbroiled Fillet Steak with Tamarind Sauce. \AM I Nyoman Suastika Executive Chef Bali Dynasty Resort Jalan Kartika Plaza, Tuban Ph +62 361 752 403 Kuta Map B - 4
Gracie’s Steak
Mongolian Stir Fry and Charbroiled Fillet Steak with Tamarind Sauce
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the specialist
Chef Greg C. Lawrence For the Love of Food! Fried Beef
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reg C. Lawrence grew up in Singapore and inherited a passion for cooking from his mother and grandmother who cooked rich, delicious tasty meals. Originally working from memories of watching them prepare various meals, Greg began his first stint in the professional kitchen at the age of 14 when he took an apprenticeship at Denni's American Restaurant. “I'm not sure if it was legal or not to work at that age, but I just loved to work in the kitchen,” Greg says. Chicken Vindaloo
For the love of food, he decided to further his knowledge in the culinary arts by travelling around the world, eventually visiting 38 countries and working closely with many talented chefs who provided great inspiration - including Fabrice de Barsy and Peter Ho. “I met Fabrice in 1988 at the Saxophone Bar & Restaurant and he provided the opportunity to learn classic French cooking at his restaurant where I worked for 8 years.” Greg adds that his speed and dexterity in the kitchen are thanks to his training with Chef Peter Ho. In 2007, Greg settled in Bali where he codesigned and coordinated the Chinoiserie Restaurant. Now, as Head Chef at Curry Power, Greg applies Continental and French cooking styles on the menu; Pork Vindaloo; Chicken Kurma; and Fried Beef, amazing dishes that give his diners plenty of reason to come back. \AM Chef Greg C. Lawrence Chef of Curry Power Jalan Drupadi II, 12 Seminyak Ph + 62 361 928 5358 Seminyak Map C - 3
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let’s cook http://eatingasia.typepad.com/eatingasia/2009/04/rujak-two-ways.html; http://www.flickr.com/photos/ikhlasulamal/2368425257/sizes/o/in/photostream/
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he tropical paradise of Bali has an abundance of exotic fresh fruits. This month Let’s Eat! shows you how to enjoy Balinese style Rujak Gula (fruit salad.) Rujak is actually a traditional Indonesian salad consisting of slices of assorted fruits such as pineapple, raw mango, bengkoang (jicama), cucumber, jambu air (water apple) and kedondong, served with sweet, sour or spicy hot sauce. While Rujak Gula is a Balinese fruit salad served with sweet sauce. Enjoyed as a dessert, Rujak Gula can be found all over the island, including beach side vendors. It is fresh, delicious and easy to make at home.
Ingredients: - Selection of thinly sliced fresh fruit - 1 tbs sugar - 1 tbs liquid coconut or palm sugar, mixed with water and boiled to thicken - ½ tbs terasi (shrimp paste) - 1 bird eye chili - Salt to taste
Method: Using mortar and pestle, grind the ingredients into a paste. Add the sliced fruits and mix well. Serve with kerupuk if available. Enjoy! \AM
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drink zone
Waffels and Cream
Mocha Frappuccino & Ice Cafe Mocha
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overs of good coffee and ambient surroundings in which to enjoy it will feel right at home at Coffee & ..., located on Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. The entrance leads into a modern style coffee shop with simple furniture, and shelves lined with pouches of ground coffee, coffee beans and some rather lovely carved wooden ducks. A glass display counter is filled with fresh fruit and a selection of sweets including tiramisu, cheesecake and a rack of fresh waffles. Glass jars hold chocolate cookies and a basket is filled with cellophane wrapped lemon, and chocolate madalenes. A steep narrow stairwell leads up to a cosy lounge area scattered with Thai cushions, perfect for relaxing with a magazine, curling up with a laptop (wifi is free) or catching up with friends. The attractive long timber breakfast bar is open to the elements and overlooks plant filled window boxes and down on to Monkey Forest Road. I spot more cute wooden ducks, big stacks of magazines, and a convenient bell on the wall, which summons a waitress so you don’t have to go all the way downstairs. Coffee & ... opened in August 2010 and we meet the charming ‘girl team’ behind it - Sunny and Mio from Korea. I ask about the origins of the café and Sunny laughs and says “I am coffee crazy, and needed a place to have really good coffee. ”The girls created their
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Chicken Cocktail Hawaiin & Garden Salad Hot Caramel Latte
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Espresso Con Panna
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Affogato
own unique blend with a good strong mix of beans from Java, Bali and Africa. I feel compelled to ask about all the ducks, and again Sunny laughs and tells me that the Korean tourists love ducks (as well as good coffee) and buy them as souvenirs. Coffee comes in many guises, Oreo Frappe, Cappuccino con Cacao, Espresso con Panna. It can also be ordered in a set, accompanied by waffles, fruit salad or various breakfast items. A waitress soon appears with a tray laden with tantalizing concoctions. The Ice Café Mocha is rich and milky with just the right amount of chocolate. The Mocha Frappuccino is a tower of coffee, milk, chocolate syrup, ice cream and swirls of whipped cream finished with a waffle stick. On the warm side there is a smooth Hot Caramel Latte with silky hints of caramel. We also try a couple of juices, an invigorating sweet and sour Green Mango and a fresh and fragrant Strawberry
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Green Mango & Strawberry Juice
Juice. The Korean tradition of tea drinking is also honored admirably, with healthy blends such as Dandelion, Pomegranate and Buckwheat. The menu features snacks, salads and sandwiches including the Garden Salad, a big bowl of crispy mixed leaves, carrots, feta and croutons with an exceptionally good citrus infused dressing. The Spicy Tuna a la Greka and Chicken Cocktail Hawaiian sandwiches are wrapped in the softest, freshest bread and filled with plenty of salad. I also recommend the Camenbert honey pocket sandwich. The homemade American style Waffles are wonderful and served with a choice of ice cream, cream and syrups, a perfect accompaniment to coffee. But there is nothing quite like getting your coffee fix with a dose of ice cream, and the Affogato is just the thing. Strong sticky bitter espresso drizzled over the sweetest vanilla ice cream.
While we are eating a huge thunderstorm hits Ubud, but it doesn’t matter because we are cheerfully ensconced in this comfortable café, and the long rainy afternoon with Mio and Sunny is fuelled by great coffee, great food and lots of laughter. Jokes and laughter aside, the girls are really serious about quality and standards and it shows in every aspect of this lovely little café. \AB COFFEE & ... Monkey Forest Road No 67, Ubud Ph +62 361 972950 Open 8am – 10pm Ubud Map B - 3 www.letseatmag.com
desser t
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always enjoy a meal at Ultimo Restaurant. Not only do they have good pasta, pizza, steak and a very good Osso Bucco, there is also an impressive list of Italian desserts that are not easily found elsewhere in Bali.
Fondente Al Cioccalato Con Gelato
The restaurant setting includes a stylish bar at the front, and an impressive open air space at the back, between the two is an air conditioned indoor room that is perfect for groups. We take a seat in the pretty garden, and like children eyeing presents under a Christmas tree, we gleefully look through the dessert menu.
ultimo
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Torta Margherita Con Foglio Dolce
We start our Italian dessert affair with some mocktails. First a Green Menta, mint leaves muddled with pineapple and lemon juice, coconut cream and sugar which creates a strong minty taste countered with the sourness of lemon, which is very fresh. Mountain Love is next and it lives up to it’s name. The mountain of yellow and red shaved ice stacked in a martini glass is as sweet as a mountain of candy, blended with orange juice, lime cordial and grenadine. Now it’s time for dessert. Budino Di Cioccolato is first – two pieces of warm chocolate cake topped with vanilla ice cream and strawberry sauce. The sweetness of the chocolate and strawberry is balanced with the pleasant warm and cold sensations in every bite. The Torta Margherita Con Foglia Dolce is my favorite. A huge slab of pale yellow cake that tastes just like grandma made it, filled with layers of blueberry cream custard, and glazed with chocolate and blueberry sauce. Divine! A favorite with the ladies is the classic Pannacotta ai Lamponi, a sweet Italian dessert made by simmering together egg custard, cream, milk, butter, sugar, and gelatin, and finished with a sour raspberry sauce. And of course, what is an
Mountain Love
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Tiramisu
Italian dessert affair without Tiramisu? One of the most popular Italian cakes, this is made with finger biscuits dipped in coffee, layered with a whipped mixture of egg yolks and mascarpone and flavored with liquor and cocoa. The taste is soft and dreamy.
Budino Di Cioccolato
There is just one more dessert that we simply must try, the best seller in fact……. If heaven truly exists then God would fill it’s tables with Fondente Al Cioccolato Con Gelato. A thin crusted chocolate cake, filled with soft, warm chocolate sauce, and topped with passion fruit and banana flambé – banana toasted in rum, strawberry sauce and vanilla ice cream. There are no words to describe this dessert, you will just have to try for yourself. \MK
Ultimo Italian Restaurant Jalan Laksmana No. 104 X & 100 Oberoi, Seminyak Ph +62 361 738 720 Opening Hours 05pm – 12pm Seminyak Map B - 3
Green Menta
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Pannacotta ai Lamponi
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wine knowledge
The Three Musicians
‘An Insight on Champagne Through the Eyes of a Barman and Guests’ “Ah, Mr. Consul, how nice to see you again. Did you enjoy dinner?” said Josef, the head bar man in his Tyrolean accent thick with Austrian charm. “Oh gracious Madame does look healthy, I am so glad to see you again too,” and with the move of a man much younger than Josef’s 65 years, he took the right hand of Madame Consul and gave it an Austrian kiss, not touching her skin but only breezing the back of her hand. It was done in such an elegant manner and with such devotion that someone looking on must have thought they were witnessing a scene from the days of the Austrian emperor era back in 1895. “We have had a fantastic time Josef, the dinner was just perfect. By the way do we have the same table here?” asks the Consul, with a beaming false set of teeth, while pronouncing the word ‘fantastic’ with a French accent. “But of course Mr. Consul,” replied Josef as he took the only two available arm chairs and drew them from the table for them to sit down, first Madame and then Mr Consul. They were the last chairs in the full bar that evening and Josef had reserved them precisely for two Champagne glasses. Once the Consul and his wife were seated, Josef whispered to him, “Like always Mr. Consul, Duval Leroy Femme du Champagne?” and the Consul replied, “By all means Josef, ” then added to his wife, “Only with Champagne is it a holiday, right Globy?” Globy was the pet name he gave to his wife because she looked nice and round like a globe. (to be continued). Taken from the unpublished book with the same title by Harald Wiesmann
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how to say.... Gabah Restaurant
Can I order.... please? Saya mau pesan.... Good morning. Good afternoon. Good evening. I am hungry. I am thirsty. I am full. Ice cube Eat.... I want to eat. Black Crab…. I want to eat black crab in Kemayangan. Jam.... I want to buy grape buni jam in Kou Cuisine. Barbecue Pork Ribs... I want to try Nuri’s barbecue pork ribs. Tiramisu…. I am enjoying tiramisu in Ultimo. Ice Coffee Mocha... I want to order ice coffee mocha, please. Plate and spoon... I need a new plate and spoon. Wine…. Can I ask a glass of white wine, please. Lamb Curry…. I like lamb curry at Yut’s Place. Strawberry Juice.. I like the strawberry juice in Coffee &.... Pepper... I want some black pepper on my steak . Strawberry Panacotta… I order strawberry panacotta. Appetizer.... I can make nachos for appetizer. Low Fat… Please bring me low fat milk. Oxtail Soup... The oxtail soup in Warung Campur Campur was tasty. Oyster…. The oyster in Ocean Terrace is very famous. Suckling Pig…. Let’s try suckling pig at Warung Babi Guling Sanur. Spicy…. I love spicy food. Salty…. It’s too salty. Hot…. I like hot chocolate milk. Cold…. I want a glass of cold water.
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• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Selamat pagi. Selamat siang. Selamat malam. Saya lapar. Saya haus. Saya kenyang. Es batu. Makan.... Saya mau makan. Kepiting Hitam…. Saya mau makan kepiting hitam di Kemayangan. Selai.... Saya mau beli selai grape buni di Kou Cuisine. Iga Babi Panggang... Saya mau coba iga babi panggang Nuri’s Tiramisu.... Saya menikmati tiramisu di Ultimo Es Kopi Moka... Saya mau pesan es kopi moka. Piring dan sendok…. Saya perlu piring dan sendok baru. Anggur... Boleh saya minta segelas anggur putih. Kare Domba.... Saya suka kare domba di Yut’s Place. Jus Stroberi.... Saya suka jus stroberi di Coffee &..... Merica…. Saya mau sedikit merica hitam di steak saya. Panacotta Stroberi…. Saya pesan panacotta stroberi. Makanan pembuka.... Saya bisa bikin nachos untuk makanan pembuka Rendah Lemak…. Tolong bawakan saya susu rendah lemak. Sop Buntut... Sop buntut di Warung Campur Campur sangat lezat. Tiram... Tiram di Ocean Terracce sangat terkenal. Babi Guling... Mari kita coba babi guling di Warung Babi Guling Sanur. Pedas...Saya suka makanan pedas. Asin…. Ini terlalu asin. Panas…. Saya suka susu coklat panas. Dingin…. Saya mau segelas air dingin. www.letseatmag.com
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