Vol-69 Let's eat! May 2015 Issue

May 2015 EDITION 69

ISSN 2085-5907

Pure Flavour

Dava

Good Vibrations Sisterfields

Bali’s Finest Dining

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Contents

22

38

38

May

Musings

22 Bali's Finest Dining

The Latest

Island Life

12-15

34 Culinary Adventure

Puri Ganesha Villas

Local Cuisine 16 A Royal Feast Raja's, Nusa Dua Beach

Hotel & Spa

The Main Affair

The Essentials

Spotlight

20 Perfect Pairings

42 Utterly Unique

Cutch, Catch, Cucina

Sofitel Bali

The Newest

Our Cover Photo by: Heri Obrink Illustration By: Rikke Huang Location: Copper at Bisma 8 Dish: Pan-Fried Black Pepper Shrimp at Copper Bisma 8, Ubud 4 let’s eat!

26 South American Bites

Pica

Must Try 30 Good Vibrations

Sisterfields

38 Pure Flavour

Dava, Ayana Resort & Spa Bali

Street Food 46 Babi Guling

Traditional Recipe 48 Lawar www.letseatmag.com

42

52

56 30

The Specialists 50 Liam Nealon

Chef de Cuisine at Sundara

Ketut Gunatika

Sous Chef at Kayu Puti Restaurant

The Insider 52 Bondan Winarno

Let's Shake 54 Fresh Rosso Rosemary

Let's Sip 56 Drinking for Two

Mozaic

Hungerlust 64 The Perfect Phô Saigon, Vietnam

Regulars 66 Food Talk

16

67 Map & Directory

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The abundance of Bali’s artistic value, the lavish island’s natural beauty and diversity of culture, become our inspiration in creating meaningful ideas.

: V i s i Wo r l d

w w w.vi s i wo r l d . a s i a

PT. Khrisna Inter Visi Media Jalan Raya Kuta 88R, Kuta Bali - Indonesia 80361 Phone +62 361 755 136. Fax + 62 361 762 241

editor’s note

One of the perks of tasting great food is that you get to talk about it; perhaps discussing the flavours and texture, the originality, the presentation, the atmosphere of the restaurant and the sensations enjoyed during your meal. Talking about fine dining is always particularly interesting because it is a total culinary experience, with so much attention to detail. In many ways it is an idealistic and prestigious journey that blends delicious tastes, good wine, a charming ambience, and of course a certain dress code. Personally, my passion for gastronomy adventures takes me to all different kinds of scenes, from street food to casual dining, and of course fine dining. The last always succeeds in challenging not only my taste buds but also all my senses, starting from the moment I enter the venue.

In this edition, we uncover some of Bali’s finest dining restaurants and experiences – places that will pamper your palates and captivate your senses.

In our ‘Bali’s finest dining’ feature we present the unique highlights of some of the island’s top restaurants (p. 22.) We also indulge in an exquisite degustation menu filled with gorgeous delicacies at Cut Catch Cucina at Sofitel Bali (p. 42.) and spend an afternoon enjoying panoramic ocean views and fine food at Dava at Ayana, Jimbaran (p. 38.) Meanwhile, Rajas at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel provides a magnificent Bali-style fine dining experience, while our Island Life section sees the team take a trip to Puri Ganesha Villas in north Bali to eat lots of great food and join a fascinating cooking class (p. 34.) Make sure also, to read our interview with Bondon Winarno, Indonesia's own culinary expert and keen advocate on the preservation of Indonesian heritage cuisine (p. 52.) You can catch Winarno in person at the first annual Ubud Food Festival taking place from 5-7 June.

Bali has come along way from the days when dinner was limited to sate or nasi goreng at a local warung, these days there is a fascinating dining experience to suit every budget and every occasion and we hope you enjoy our guide to the more glamorous side of Bali’s dining scene.

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your culinary guide

Senior Advisor A.A. Ngr. Mahendra Editor-in-Chief Managing Director

Ayu Sawitri Hapsari Patricia TA Bid Business Development Alison Elisabeth Bone Managing Editor Via Wijaya Writers Menur Astuti Eve Tedja Kartika Dewi Suardana Graphic Designer Tri Angendari Director of Photography Heri Obrink Account Director Catherine Julia Account Executive Mitra Adi Rachman (accexecutive@visiworld.asia) Willy Yulianto (acc.executive@visiworld.asia) Distribution & Circulation AA. Mayun, I Nyoman Supartika, Made Adnyana Cultural Advisor Kadek Wahyudita ‘Penggak’

C

M

OFFICE Khrisna Building II, 2nd Floor, Jalan Raya Kuta 88R, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia P+62 361 961 0066 F+62 361 762 241 contact@letseatmag.com www.letseatmag.com I www.visiworld.asia letseatmag

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K

A well seasoned travel writer, Alison explored the world before arriving in Bali, where she quickly succumbed to the island’s exotic charms.

Trading nomadic journeys for adventures of a culinary kind, she happily spends her time writing about restaurants and working on her first novel. alison.e.bone@gmail.com

Menur shares her time between Manado and Bali and admits she still hasn’t had the guts to try Manadonese Paniki – a dish made from bats, but she promises to write about it when she has.

When in Bali, she loves trying new restaurants with friends, and particularly enjoys Vietnamese and Indian food, Connect with her @menurastuti

Eve’s family motto has always been ‘live to eat rather than eat to live.’ Aside from eating, she also loves to write, travel, design and cook (although, admittedly that also involves eating.)

Occasionally, you can find her bragging about where she eats and travels in her tweets @evetedja

Dewi has been working as an independent writer since 2005, and her book ‘Dances of Bali’ has sold more than 2000 copies. Aside from writing she is also passionate about diving, photography and actively volunteers for several non-profit organisations that are engaged in conservation work.

Let’s Eat! Magazine is published monthly under the direction of PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by the editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Let’s Eat! are reserved by PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Let’s Eat! is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2013 Let’s Eat! ISSN 2085-5907 A Member of

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BALI

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the latest

A Sustainable Livelihood Apart from being one of the most beautiful resorts on the island, Banyan Tree Ungasan also proudly supports female artisans by displaying and selling their crafts at the Banyan Tree Gallery. Women from Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia are represented, with the intention of sustaining livelihoods, conserving culture and acting as a marketing channel to create empowerment.

Banyan Tree Ungasan Jalan Melasti, Ungasan – Kuta Selatan I P +62 361 3007000

Indian Food Festival Sarong recently hosted a week long Indian Food Festival with full support from the India Tourism Development Corporation. The wildly successful event managed to drawn great interest and a large number of visitors. Indian cuisine master chef, Mukesh Kumar cooked up a storm along with Chef Will Meyrick and his team, and treated guests to an authentically delicious selection of North Indian cuisine. www.sarongbali.com

Interior Journey Art lovers take note! Until May 17, 2015 a curated art exhibition is being displayed at Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana. “Interior Journey” by a local Balinese artist, I Made Mahendra Mangku, is taking place at the lobby and throughout the corridors of the resort. Mangku has shown his artwork locally and internationally as well as winning the hearts of collectors with his abstract paintings. In collaboration with Tony Raka Gallery, “Interior Journey” marks the sixth art exhibition by the hotel to celebrate contemporary art.

Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jalan Melasti 1 Legian I P +62 361 762500 12 let’s eat!

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Swig

&

Nibble

Be sure to clear your schedule and reserve a place for a memorable evening at Cuca. Together with award winning winemakers, Astrolabe; a special “Swig & Nibble” event will take place on May 10, 2015. Chef Kevin Cherkas is preparing 20 especially crafted nibbles to match the delightful New Zealand wines. Knowing Cuca’s philosophy of using 100% local ingredients and its pure attention to flavour, it will surely be an unforgettable gourmet event.

Cuca Jalan Yoga Perkanthi Jimbaran I P +62 361 708 066

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The Artful Wine Our very own Pino de Bali, the fortified wine of Hatten Wines recently received the honour of being served at Felix Restaurant of Peninsula Hotel Hong Kong, as part of an international food & wine event held in conjunction with the Art Basel cultural event.

The wine won the heart of the hotel’s Chief Sommelier and to celebrate the festivities, Felix Restaurant created an artinspired food and wine menu

Saturday Brunch While Sunday brunch is a popular island pastime, the question must be asked. What about Saturday? Thankfully Sofitel Nusa Dua Bali has risen to the occasion and now offers its extravagant weekend brunch ‘a la francaise’ on both Saturday and Sunday. As the name suggest, brunch is inspired by French rustic traditions and focuses on fresh produce. Seafood galore, classic French dishes, Italian faves and the freshest island ingredients create a highly memorable experience, and great value starting at RP 399,000 ++ and RP 599,000 ++ (with beer and wine.)

paired with Pino de Bali. www.HattenWines.com

Cut Catch Cucina Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort I +62 361 849 2888

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ĺ Village Island Life ĸ Ten thatched-roof circular lanai cottages are now standing beautifully on the beach of Mushroom Bay, Lembongan Island. Nusa Bay Lembongan by Waka Hotel and Resorts has finally finished extensive upgrading and the three star beachfront resort is now ready to welcome guests to its enchanted tiny village, where tradition meets modern comfort. Various activities and facilities are available for guests to enjoy their stay.

Nusa Bay Lembongan Mushroom Bay Lembongan I P +62 366 559 6368

Sunday BBQ Extravaganza Renowned for its fresh-off-the-boat seafood and glorious beach front setting, Arwana at La Laguna has introduced a decadent Sunday BBQ lunch, combining an extensive buffet with live cooking stations. An abundance of meats and seafood includes sushi and sashimi, as well as a crepe and waffle station, salad and cheese bar and huge selection of mouth watering desserts. Priced at just RP 480,000 nett, the BBQ include free flow beer and soft drinks. Diners are also invited to spend the day at the resort enjoying complimentary non motorised water sports and access to private beach and lagoon pools.

12-3 Sundays at The Laguna, The Luxury Resort and Spa Nusa Dua I P +62 361 300 5635

Black and Gold From the people who brought us Sisterfields, comes BO$$ MAN, a burger joint with attitude. The fancy black and gold eatery in Seminyak offers a whole new experience with six original burgers on the menu. Two beef, two chicken and two pork alternatives are available for serious burger bingeing, with unique flavours created

by Chef Jethro Vincent and his team.

BO$$ MAN I Jalan Kayu Cendana No. 8B Seminyak M +62 812 3916 7070

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local cuisine

A Royal Feast Setting the standards high, Raja’s offers a truly royal dining experience with premium ingredients and the bling of gold plated tableware ‘a la kings and queens.’

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Ayam Betutu

It was five thirty in the afternoon when we arrived at

a regal evening and since that night, Raja’s has held the

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa to visit Raja’s Restaurant.

title of the first Balinese Fine Dining Restaurant.

Back in 2003, there was a competition between all the in-house Balinese chefs to create delectable food to be featured in the soon-to-be-opened Raja’s menu. The result was an array of halal Balinese cuisine mainly from Central Denpasar made with first class ingredients and certified by the Indonesian Ulema Council. Kings and queens of Bali attended the opening night and Consuls from other countries were also on the guest list. It was

Raja’s has always been a picturesque venue that transforms itself into a distinguished dining place at night. From afar the restaurant seems to float, with beautiful reflections accentuated by flickering candles.

The interiors are of classic wood, with dark brown chairs and off-white table runners of a quintessential, yet still adored taste.

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As this was my second visit to Raja’s, I noticed there

lemongrass cuts. Shredded Chicken was finely grated

have been some changes in the menu and the opening

and served in a fragrant lime and chili mix. Prawn Sate

hours. They now have an early bird menu starting at

are each split in the middle and come with a delicious

5:30pm with options of two or three courses, including

dipping sauce. Next came the Raja’s Specialty, Ayam

a selection of two tapas from the appetiser section.

Betutu. I have tasted this dish many times before, but

Vegetarian and gluten free Balinese dishes are also

Raja’s Ayam Betutu is really different, maybe because

available. While chatting with Ketut Mudana, the Senior

it is slowly cooked fit in banana leaves while marinated

Chef, we learnt that it was not easy to impose the halal

in the flavourful Balinese spices from an old-age recipe

certification for each ingredient, storage method and

handed down from Balinese generations. We emptied

cooking process.

our plates in no time and moved on to the last dish, Es

Curious about the new tapas menu, we took some appetisers that came in petite plates but with grand tastes. Take for example the Pan Fried Snapper that is freshly cooked and served with Sambal Matah relish

Kacang Hijau, a cool dessert with green peas, jackfruit, sticky rice and coconut milk. The sun had set by the time we finished out meal, and Raja’s exuberant romance and majestic vibe multiplied as we said good night. Menur

that is made fresh and tangy with some lime and

Raja’s Balinese Restaurant

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I Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, Lot North 4 I P +62 361 771 210

64 I 5.30pm – 10.30pm

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the essentials

Perfect Pairings

When it comes to wine pairing the rules are changing. The makers of Plaga, who took the island by storm a couple of years ago, believe that selecting a wine should be based more on the occasion, rather than the food being served. Here they offer their perfect pairings.

The father-in-law s birthday Never something pink or white. Choose a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Shiraz – the strong red grapes will make your father-in-law think that you know him very well.

The pool party Bikinis, beach balls and making a splash is much more of a Rose occasion than anything else. Light and playful this is a wine to have fun with, so forget about the social rules, strip off and go jump in the pool naked.

The early aperitif It’s Sunday, breakfast is done, maybe lunch too. It’s hot in town and the beach is calling. The time is ripe for a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, chilled on plenty of ice and sipped with a nice cold ceviche.

The Proposal If romance is on the agenda then what better way to sweeten the occasion than with soft loving words and a fine sweet Rose.

The PICNIC Wi ne

Easy! Just bring an ice cold Chardonnay – a fresh and versatile wine that will match everyone and everything. You can even pour it into plastic glasses – no problem.

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Plaga Wine. http://www.plagawine.com

2015 Hilton Worldwide

BBQ DINNER

BY THE BEACH Gaze up at the star-lit night sky as you enjoy your own private BBQ on the beach.

Grill meats and seafood just as you wish.

Truly luxury. Truly you.

Jl. Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa, on the Coast of Nusa Dua, Bali 80363, Indonesia For further information, please call (62) 361 778 788 or Toll Free 0800-140-1147 restaurants@conradbali.com or visit ConradBali.com

musings

Bali's Finest Dining Text By Alison

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Every holiday deserves at least one glammed up night on the town and these days Bali has plenty of fine dining destinations to choose from. So slip into your little black dress, strap on those heels and head out for an evening of world class cuisine and sublime cocktails.

Tres Magnifique

The celebrated domain of Chef Nicolas ‘Doudou’ Tourneville, and one of the island’s most famous restaurants, Metis offers fine French Mediterranean cuisine in an elegant setting, complete with fabulous wines, stylish boutiques, art gallery and wonderful rice paddy vista.

Highlights Classy ambience.

Private cellar dining for ten with tailored 6-course degustation menu.

Must Try The peaky soufflés.

Beachside Chic

Once the island’s most happening party spot, where revellers would dance the night away under the stars, Chez Gado Gado has morphed into a marvellous restaurant where the endlessly talented chef Quib presides over an ever-evolving, ingredient-driven menu with myriad global influences.

Highlights Spectacular sunset views over Seminyak beach.

Extensive selection of wines by the glass (17 at our last count.)

Must Try Signature dishes based on seasonal ingredients.

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The Seafood Specialist

Set on a gorgeous white sandy beach in Nusa Dua, Arwana specialises in fresh and live seafood. Select your meal from the giant live seafood aquarium filled with lobster, barramundi, grouper and crab, or choose from the contemporary sushi bar or a la carte menu.

Highlights Absolute beach frontage.

Decadent Sunday BBQ brunch – make sure to try the chilli crab!

Must Try

The Giant Sword – a charcoal grilled seafood skewer laden with jumbo prawns, squid and sea bass.

Sheer Opulence

Channelling old world grace and grandeur in a scene that wouldn’t be out of place in the Great Gatsby, Kayuputi at St Regis offers one of the island’s most luxurious epicurean experiences. Asian-influenced haute cuisine is paired with exclusive wines from the largest wine cellar on the island.

Highlights Champagne Sunday Brunch.

Views over the golden sands of Nusa Dua. Must Try A wine pairing suggested by esteemed sommelier, Harald Weismann.

Utter Seduction

Tucked behind a non-descript frontage and seating just 30, Teatro Gastroteque offers a seductive and highly sensory dining experience worthy of a splurge. Award-winning chef Mandif Warroka unleashes his theatrical flair in sumptuous surrounds, with a sophisticated Asian twist on French gastronomy. A second restaurant is opening in Ubud soon.

Highlights Innovative and highly imaginative preparations.

Heavenly red velvet chairs so you can dine in absolute comfort.

Must Try

Discovery Menu paired with a flow of beautiful wines.

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Raw and Ravishing

Awarded ‘Spa Cuisine of the Year’ at Asia Spa Awards 2014, Sakti Dining Room at Fivelements offers the only raw fine dining experience in Bali – creating wondrous fare without cooking a single thing! Premium organic vegetables, skilful preparation and endless culinary talent results in conscious cuisine and a truly unique dining experience.

Highlights Lush riverside setting.

Food that tastes great, and is great for you!

Must Try The seven-course tasting menu - a true journey of flavours and sensations.

The Banyan Tree

From its lofty perch high on the limestone cliffs of the Bukit Peninsula, Ju-Ma-Na at Banyan tree combines an Arabic design with an abundance of fresh, beautifully prepared seafood. Cuisine melds French-style cooking techniques with Japanese influences.

Highlights Jaw dropping ocean views Decadent design Must Try

Surf and Turf

The Local Touch

Adopting the locavore practice of sourcing ingredients within a 100km radius, Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah are the creative masterminds behind Locavore, Ubud. Modern European cuisine is beautifully presented, seriously delicious and ethically sound, as it supports farmers, fishermen and artisans across the islands.

Highlights Fruit, vegetables and herbs picked fresh from the restaurants flourishing organic gardens.

Seating for just 30 creates an intimate and exclusive dining experience.

Must Try The vegetable tasting menu. Prepare to be amazed! www.letseatmag.com

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the newest

Causas del Mar

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South American Bites Short for picante which in Spanish means ‘spicy’, PICA is a new restaurant in Ubud cooking up delicious South American treats in an intimate setting.

A bamboo roofing and façade lends PICA a tropical accent. The

Cerdo con Manzana

simple and clean interior design suggests careful planning and meticulous attention to detail, a certain clue that I tend to look for whenever I eat in a new restaurant. A creation of the Chilean chef, Cristian Encina and partner, Monica Fernandez, PICA is showing us what has been missing from our culinary options options in Bali. “South American cuisine is different from country to country but it has some qualities in common, namely freshness, simple yet complex flavour, and is intriguing to the tastebuds. Most of the dishes are made from local produce but I get some spices all the way from Peru and Chile,” explains the chef to us South American food newbies.

People watching is our favourite thing to do and here at the porch of PICA, it is possible to witness the leisurely stroll of visitors walking around the artful town of Ubud. Gulping down my cooling Pineapple Agua Fresca, we immediately start our evening treat with a delicate serving of Causas del Mar. It is a trio of Peruvian cold potato cakes with three different toppings of octopus, prawns and mahi mahi escabeche. Aside from the beautiful presentation, it is packing a serious flavour, ranging from spicy, sour to sweet. The potato is superbly soft and utterly light in texture.

Pineapple Agua Fresca

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let’s eat! 27

After that strong starter, we continue our exploration to Ceviche Classico and Ceviche Nikkei. Of course you have to have ceviche in a South American restaurant, says my friend and he is right.

The mahi mahi are cured in lemon and herbs such as red onion, coriander, garlic, yellow chilli and sunk in a dramaticallynamed sauce, leche de tigre or tiger’s milk. The fish is cut in cubes and then served marinated in a bowl of that very sauce. It is fresh, light and perfect for the current hot weather. Another star of our treat tonight is none other than the melt-in-your-mouth Cerdo con Manzana.

The pork belly confit has been slowly cooked for eight hours, leaving the skin crackling and the meat so tender it puts the accompanying red wine apple puree to shame. The cut is fantastic, leaving just only a minimal amount of fat and cholesterol guilt. It also goes exceptionally well with the Amaretto Sour, my unfortunately-last cocktail for tonight.

Rather wishing that I didn’t need to go anywhere else, I reluctantly have to call it a night and bid farewell to this tiny South American kitchen that makes one feel instantly at home. Eve

PICA South American Kitchen I Jalan Dewi Sita Ubud I P +62 361 971 660

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24 I (Tuesday – Sunday) 12pm - 3pm, 6pm – 11pm I Ubud Map B-4

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must try

good vibrations 30 let’s eat!

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Tropical Fruit Salad

Turkish Poached Eggs

Dirty Burger

Meeting for a ladies lunch, we get ourselves seated in a round cosy booth overlooking

Brimming with energy, Sisterfields in Seminyak is swarmed with people who wish to start and end their day with good food and stylish company.

the crowd, and the busy kitchen. The classic black and white decor with splashes of turquoise and wood manages to convey a vibrant welcome for guests. Reservation is mandatory if you are thinking about coming here with a group, otherwise, you could be waiting for up to 15 minutes next to the now ‘viral’ mural of a shushing cheeky girl at the entrance.

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Korean Tuna Tartare

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Juices are our first orders of the day as well as a much needed remedies from our sweltering shopping trip in Seminyak. My Mango Madness Smoothie is perfection, made with fresh mango and banana. Our food orders start to come out from

Moving on to the meatier note, the infamous Dirty

the kitchen. As we soon find out, the mastermind

Burger is our next dish. It is made of the usual

behind these lovely, beautifully plated dishes

suspects of medium beef patty, smoked cheddar,

is Chef Jethro Vincent, a New Zealander who is

pickled onion rings, mustard aioli and hand-cut

passionate about cooking from scratch and layering

fries. They get everything right, even the buns.

his food with flavour and textures.

Taking a break, we sip and chat away some more

Korean Tuna Tartare comes first. It is an orchestra of raw tuna, homemade kimchi, pickled carrot,

while the crowd goes in and out in a constant stream.

and tiny blobs of Korean gochujang mayo with

Lunch hour is officially over when our last dish is

a delicious sting. The accompanying crackling

served. The artfully arranged Tropical Fruit Salad

seaweed crackers also deserve a mention. Turkish

comes in all its blooming glory, haiku ready and

Poached Eggs arrive next, in a bowl filled with

made of coconut Bavarian cream and airy coconut

Sisterfields’ own smoked salmon sunk in a generous

lime granita that feels like snow. It’s a fruitful Zen

dill and garlic yoghurt dressing. Crunchy quinoa

garden in a bowl and successfully exceeds our

adds an extra nice texture to the dish. I put the

expectation of fruit salad. There is no mystery in

timely poached eggs on top of the buttery Turkish

Sisterfields huge success when all they do is to get

bread and make sure I dip it into the pool of

everything just right. Eve

dressing. It is light as well as tasty.

Sisterfields

I Jalan Kayu Cendana No. 7 Seminyak I P +62 811 3860 507

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I Open 7am – 5pm I Seminyak Map B-3 let’s eat! 33

Island Life

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Culinary adventure The beautiful Puri Ganesha Villas in Pemuteran Bay offer a tranquil seaside retreat, healthy gourmet meals and the chance to join fascinating culinary workshops and journeys.

Leaving the scramble of southern Bali behind we head high to the cooler climes of Bali’s forested hinterland, then follow a narrow misty mountain ridge before descending down to the north coast of Bali.

adventure through Nepal, Java and Bali.

Chance, or perhaps destiny brought her to Bali, where, close to 20 years ago she built four gorgeous villas on the seafront, explaining, “I wanted to have happy fun

The peaceful seaside region of Pemuteran is best

people around the place and make a lot of mad food.”

known for its bio rock reef and grass roots community

Meals here are good, honest, healthy and prepared

conservation projects and seems an odd place to find a

to the mantra, ‘Live to eat, not eat to live.’ We enjoy a

cordon blue chef, but Diana von Cranach isn’t just any

lively dinner filled with great conversation and exquisite

old cordon blue chef. Her love of food has taken her

dishes of [Tomato and Feta towers] with a delicious

around the world, in fact her life has just been one long

pesto made from three types of basil, and a Vietnamese

culinary journey, and she happily tailors gourmet trips

noodle dish served with a wonderful lemongrass sauce

and food tours for guests that fly in from all around the

and a basket brimming with fresh herbs to shred into it.

world. A born foodie, Diana is now close to

So simple, yet so good!

completing her third recipe book, an epicurean

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let’s eat! 35

We are treated to gorgeous sunrise over the bay as

crush and in so doing, reveal the most wonderful of

we head to the local market early the next morning.

fragrances. We prepare a classic Balinese spice paste

Women sit in front of piles of red chillis, while tables

for a Pumpkin and Choko Curry and another for a Daun

are laden with pumpkins, beans, dragon fruit and

Urab a mixed leaf salad with fresh shredded coconut

herbs. Driving back to the villas, the car is filled with

and spices, and also a spicy Sambal Hijau. We then

the heady scent of kemangi – Bali’s ubiquitous lemon

head out to cook on a kaki lima (traditional Balinese

basil. Following a breakfast of Watermelon Juice,

cart) in the garden, where we toss gingerflower and

Special Vegetable and Herb Omelette with dark multi

shrimps with lemon basil.

grain bread and rich smooth Munduk coffee, I don an apron and join an English family at the big kitchen table for the ‘Simple Balinese Flavours’ cooking class.

A basket laden with our market purchases sits in the middle of the table, another bares all kinds of herbs and spices. We are each equipped with an elephantshaped wooden cutting board, sharp knife and lava stone mortar and pestle. Diana talks us through all the ingredients, her knowledge is phenomenal and

Sitting at a table overlooking the water we enjoy the fruits of our labour, and I must say, we have done well!

Browsing through Diana’s Allthingsnice Spice Company range – also available at Bali Buda, Bali Deli and other outlets, I buy a Bali Salt and Tropical Petal Sprinkle and some North Bali Raw Forest Honey before leaving this enchanting little place behind to head back over the mountains.

sprinkled with fun anecdotes. We then get slicing and

*Contact the villas for details on expat offers and the

dicing and pounding with out mortar and pestles.

two night ‘Gourmet Hideaway’ package available until

It’s incredibly satisfying to feel the ingredients slowly

the end of June. Alison

Puri Ganesha Villa

36 let’s eat!

I Desa Pemuteran, Gerokgak, Singaraja I P+62 362 94766

the main affair

Pure

Flavour

Truffle Cream Cheese Stuffed Chicken Breast

38 let’s eat!

Taking the shape of a giant lotus rising from picturesque floating gardens, Dava at AYANA offers a chic fine dining experience with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean sparkling in the distance.

let’s eat! 39

H

ugging the hills of Jimbaran Bay, the sprawling resort of AYANA and its younger sister RIMBA have a total of 15 restaurants and bars between them, each with unique character and appeal. Dava with its sleek

curved design in creamy stone is nestled amidst the AYANA

villas, surrounded by trickling water ponds, terraced swimming pools and flourishing frangipani trees.

Chef de Cuisine Sebastian Arnold honed his skills in his native Germany as well as Oman and Malaysia before taking the lead at Dava, and offers a sophisticated a la carte menu, as well as a 3-course chef’s special menu and nightly 6 or 8-course degustation menu.

Vahlrona Chocolate Fondant

As befits the tropical heat he likes to keep things fresh and light, combining western styles and techniques with local ingredients, such as the Marinated Grilled Sea Bass Fillet with lemongrass butter sauce and pomelo.

A smooth jazz trio ushers in the sunset - well accompanied by a classy cocktail from the Martini Bar or a fine wine from the extensive cellar. Bubbles are always a cheerful way to begin a fine meal, and my delicately sweet Espuma Red Ruby Champagne is essentially a raspberry bellini topped with a pale pink foam and juicy blueberry caviar. Those who prefer a more savoury aperitif will perhaps enjoy the Bloody Bucket, a very spicy take on a bloody mary, complete with rosemary, chilli, and a side serve of salmon sashimi with soya and wasabi.

Star Anise Jumbo Prawn

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Arnold explains that when cooking he likes to concentrate on particular flavours – the Star Anise Poached Jumbo Prawn is a great example, delicately imbued with notes of star anise, fennel and leeks. To serve, the prawn has been split open and dolloped with cream fraiche and avruga caviar then propped on a cucumber carpaccio layered with a fragrant and fresh papaya salsa with strong hints of coriander and chilli. The Truffle Cream Cheese Stuffed Chicken Breast (Confit) is incredibly tender with the earthy, slightly pungent flavour of truffle shining through. Accompaniments include a sensational fluffy carrot puree blended with lots of butter, spicy homemade potato chips dusted with salt, brown sugar and chilli powder, and a rich port wine sauce.

The taste of black truffle also predominates in the mignonette that tops the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio.

A braise of thyme, salt, pepper and olive oil lends flavour to the Organic Saltbush Lamb Duo with lamb shank and rack cooked confit for an impressive 16 hours then teamed with potato croquettes, ricotta gnocchi and delicious candied Kalamata olives. We finish with two different desserts. The Vahlrona Chocolate Fondant is bitter, dark and sticky, and sits in a white chocolate and raspberry parfait. The contrast of tart berries, sweet milk chocolate and bitter chocolate is always a good one, and is further enhanced with dollops of Baileys Irish cream thickened with vanilla, chocolate and cream. Meanwhile the crunchy Almond and Raisin Biscotti are perfect for scooping up the accompanying chilled strawberry and lychee salad, Baileys cream, chocolate ice cream and almond crumbs.

Once dinner is finished, AYANA’S legendary Rock, perched dramatically on the rocks at the bottom of the cliffs, provides the perfect setting for a night cap. Alison

Dava I AYANA Resort and Spa Bali, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran I P +62 361 702222

110 I Open 6.30pm – 11pm I Jimbaran Map C-2

let’s eat! 41

spotlight

Utterly

Unique

42 let’s eat!

Lobster

Foie Grass

Pressed Tomato

Set amidst the tropical gardens of Sofitel Bali, Cut Catch Cucina is a bold and beautifully conceived restaurant offering three distinct, highly interactive dining options in an elegant bistro setting.

With its unique three-in-one concept Cut, Catch, Cucina offers a broad spectrum of worldly flavours and gastronomy all under one roof. Cut refers to the largest section, with a New York-style steakhouse concept, where you can choose your prime cut and have it grilled to perfection with a selection of sides and sauce. It’s a popular choice, thanks to the highest quality marinades, meats (think Auskobe tenderloin, wagyu sirloin,) organic chicken and homemade sausages. Catch is for seafood aficionados, offering catch-of-the-day, live lobster and a la carte. European cooking techniques are favoured, but Asian herbs and spices such as kaffir lime and lemongrass cast fragrant flavour.

Meanwhile, Cucina is a classic Italian kitchen with authentic dishes from carpaccio to capesante and rustic pizza to homemade pasta, all given a stylish modern twist.

Sofitel Executive Chef, Daine Gilbert, hails from Australia and brings serious talent and a wealth of worldly experience to the resort. He collaborates with Chef de Cuisine, Maxie Millian, who has a flamboyant flair and serious love for the culinary arts, “It’s my life, it’s what I am good at,” says the Jakartan-born chef. The gleaming kitchen suites and sleek marble counter tops are like a playground where he unleashes his passion to experiment and create. We try out the degustation menu, which comes with a choice of five or eight courses and can be optionally paired with wine.

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let’s eat! 43

Home Baked Apple Martini

Chocolate

Wagyu

Foie Gras comes first, a classic French terrine flavoured

frozen chocolate cloud that really does melt in the

with a hearty dash of Cognac. The presentation is

mouth. A ball of white chocolate with a surprise filling of

superb; it looks like a magnum ice cream, complete with

passion fruit and vodka is the piece de resistance.

wooden stick and coating of roughly textured crushed peanuts, cinnamon crumbs, powdery white truffle dust and juicy bubbles of balsamic caviar. The utterly tender Lobster that arrives next is poached in clarified butter to create an exceptionally rich, smooth flavour.

It comes with a twirl of homemade tagliolini coloured in squid ink, a sweet red pepper variation and delicate lobster bisque. The Wagyu is a roasted striploin, served

Cocktails are equally impressive. Canadian Club meets tequila with a touch of burnt orange zest, dash of bitters and smidgeon of sugar simple syrup to create a Death

by Chocolate. Meanwhile, the Millionaires Martini is a golden elixir of Don Julio Tequila, Grand Marnier and just a touch of lime, while the Home baked Apple Martini is simply sublime.

medium rare and juicy, with a deeply fragrant rosemary

I also highly recommend the weekend brunch ‘a la

jus, sprinkle of rock salt, scoop of sticky oxtail, as well

francaise’. A lively atmosphere and truly lavish feast

as fondant potato, glazed carrot, asparagus ribbon

awaits, with a series of buffets piled high with an enticing

and tasty chanterelle mushroom cooked in a delicious

array of fresh seafood, rustic breads, fine pastries,

concoction of butter, garlic and thyme.

salads, as well as a carvery, live cooking stations, Italian

Dessert is simply called Chocolate, but there is nothing simple in this artfully prepared dish presenting chocolate in various guises and textures. The homemade snickers bar is sensational, and then there is a crumbly chocolate

corner, traditional French fare and decadent desserts.

Best of all it comes with optional freeflow packages and is served on both Saturday and Sunday, so makes a great way to start, or finish your weekend. Alison

soil, crispy raspberry tuile, a fluffy mousse and a wispy

Cut, Catch, Cucina I Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, Lot N5 Nusa Dua Tourism Complex I +62 3618492888

200

Open Lunch 12 – 4pm, Dinner 6 – 10.30pm I Nusa Dua Map C-5

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I HAVE

MEASURED OUT MY LIFE

COFFEE spoons T.S. ELIOT

street food

Babi Guling Babi guling or Balinese suckling pig (pig roast) is one of the most famous dishes in Bali. It is a whole pig, with seasoned cassava leaves stuffed into its belly before being grilled over a fire. The slow cooking process results in tender and juicy meat and crispy pork rind.

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The Balinese consider babi guling one of their most

Timbrah, a village in Karangasem Regency, holds a

special dishes and usually include it in offerings for

religious ritual that includes dozens of babi guling in

religious events, like melaspas (house blessing), otonan

the main offering. Ngusaba Desa is the ritual to clean

(birthday ceremony) and weddings. Traditionally, be

the village from the misfortune and a way to express

guling (as the Balinese call it) was not an everyday meal

gratitude for the health and wealth that have been

and could only be enjoyed after it was offered in a

blessed on the participants. In the old days it was only

ceremony.

families with great wealth who included babi guling in

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the offering. Once the ceremony was complete, the pig

offices area, is a dining room turned warung. Established

was then shared with the rest of the village. The growing

in the early 80’s it sells Bali’s authentic mixed rice and

prosperity in the village has had a significant impact

super good nasi be guling. The cooking tastes homey

these days, especially in term of the number of babi

and is not too spicy. Warung Pak Malen, nestled at one

guling offered during the Ngusaba Desa ceremony.

corner of Sunset Road in Seminyak, also offers good

Nowadays, this mouth-watering delicacy can be found almost everywhere on the island. A portion of nasi be guling includes a moderate amount of warm rice, juicy pork meat, a little piece of crunchy pork rind, mix veg,

babi guling boasting fiery hot sambal and crunchy fried pork. Babi Guling Candra, in Jalan Teuku Umar, is one of the oldest babi guling restaurants in Denpasar with many loyal fans of their smorgasbord pork delicacy.

chicken or pork soup, and lawar – Balinese authentic mix

Up in Ubud, Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka is never

veg. In the south of Bali there are several warungs well

quiet. Famed for its babi guling, the warung became

known for their babi guling.

internationally known after being featured on the food

Warung Bundaran Renon, located in the government

Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka Jalan Sweta, next to Ubud Palace Ubud – Gianyar

program hosted by Anthony Boudain. Dewi

Warung Bundaran Renon Jalan Raya Puputan No. 212 Roundabout Renon – Denpasar P +62 (0)361 234208 - 7855800

Babi Guling Pak Malen Sunset Road No. 5, Seminyak (opposite Sunset Point) Kedewatan - Gianyar

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let’s eat! 47

traditional recipe

b Lawar b In the Balinese tradition, ngelawar (making lawar) is a male activity, because it consists of gathering many ingredients, and a great deal of chopping. Usually, when a religious ritual or traditional event was held, a group of men in the family would gather and prepare the meal, such as babi guling (roast pig), lawar (mix vegetables), and pepes (minced meat covered in banana leaf and steamed).

These days, lawar can be easily found, either sold individually or as part of a portion of Nasi Be Guling. Lawar is not a photogenic food as it is a mix of almost everything. However, it boasts a rich flavour – a nice blend of sweet, savoury, and spicy.

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Ingredients:

Seasoning Ingredients:

8pcs long beans, cut 1/2 cm and

1/2 tsp fried shrimp paste.

then boiled.

6 pcs shallot.

100g young jack fruit, boiled and

3 cloves garlic.

then chopped into small pieces.

3 pcs red pepper.

300g pork, boiled and minced.

1 cm kaempferia galangal.

150g shredded coconut.

2 pcs roasted candlenut.

3pcs cayenne pepper thinly cut.

1 cm grilled turmeric.

2pcs chilli, thinly cut.

3/4 tspn salt.

1/2tbsp shredded palm sugar.

1 keffir lime.

2 tbsp oil.

Method: Mix all the seasoning ingredients in the food processor and grind till smooth. Or you can use pestle and mortar for a more natural textured result.

SautĂŠ the seasoning together with the chilli and cayenne pepper until the mixture releases a strong aromatic fragrance.

Mix the rest of ingredients in a bowl (best if you mix by hand), and squeeze the keffir lime on top of the mixture before the final mix.

Serve with warm rice.

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NOW OPEN! Opening Hours: 11am - 6 am Simple home - cooking with daily "surprise-dish"cozy place to hangout and enjoy the breeze.

Jl. Majapahit No. 37 Kuta Bali | 0361 - 762010 | www.roadside37.com Roadside37

@roadside37

Roadside37

the specialist

Liam Nealon Chef de Cuisine

Ketut Gunatika Sous Chef

Joining Sundara in March last year, Chef Liam Nealon

It has been an exciting 14 years in the kitchen for

of Brisbane, Australia has thoroughly adapted to his

Gunatika. The Tabanan-born chef immediately started

kitchen team, as well as the Bali way of life. “I came

his career after graduating from Bali’s culinary college

here because I love the sun, sea and asian food. So

and decided to try his luck in Dubai. After working in

that’s what we do here in Sundara, our own version of

a five-star establishment he decided to head home

modern Asian cuisine,” explains the chef who also has

and became part of the pre-opening team at The

experience in the UK and France. “Sundara is unique

St. Regis Bali in 2008. “I am at my happiest in the

in the sense that it offers three different kinds of dining

kitchen. The temperature is hot, the pressure is high

experience, from lunch to dinner and everything in

but the result is satisfying. That’s why I love working in

between. There’s never a boring day where I work!”

a fine dining establishment,” states Gunatika.

says Nealon.

Sundara at Four Seasons Resorts Bali Jimbaran Bay P +62 361 708333

50 let’s eat!

Kayuputi Restaurant The St. Regis Bali P +62 361 3006786

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Chefs Battle!

Between the sparkling waters of Jimbaran Bay and the tranquil beach of Nusa Dua, we manage to sit down with two talented chefs to chat about their passion for food and the finest dining experience that they have ever had. Please meet Chef de Cuisine Liam Nealon of Sundara, and Sous Chef Ketut Gunatika of Kayuputi Restaurant.

Q: Do tell us, how did you decide to be a chef in the first

Q: How did your upbringing influence your style of

Chef Liam: When I was in school, I met a wonderful

Chef Liam: My dad loved to cook. I was raised with

French guy who happened to be a chef. He told me

Italian, Thai and all sorts of food. I grew up loving to

stories about food and traveling to exotic places. I wanted

eat everything and anything. I think it’s very important

to experience that and it made me want to be a chef. I

to expose your palate to all sorts of flavours and taste.

was also lucky to be raised by a father who loves to cook.

It makes you a better chef.

Chef Ketut: I was raised in a close-knit Balinese

Chef Ketut: Balinese cuisine is definitely a style of fine

community where the men cook for the whole village

dining. There are no short cuts, so many herbs and

during events and ceremonies. Perhaps for this I was

spices in one dish and there is no standard portion.

always drawn to cooking and working in the kitchen.

You cook it with heart and patience. I think it taught

Following advice from my older brother, I decided to

me to be more mindful and gentle in cooking.

place?

study culinary and that definitely sealed my fate.

Q: Tell me more about your restaurant. What’s new?

cooking?

Q: How do you keep your knife sharp in this competitive industry, especially in Bali?

Chef Liam: We are working to make Sundara more

Chef Liam: By being aware, following the news and

accessible and are now serving a set lunch menu that

seeing the trends. Working closely with our suppliers

is very affordable. The extended dinner menu has also

is also important since they can always provide

recently been changed with selected Asian dishes, bigger

interesting information and produce. Basically, I love to

portions that can be shared, as well as an exciting seafood

eat and I can tell you that there is no dish in the menu

menu. Since we are just next to Bali’s best fish market,

that I wouldn’t want to eat.

there’s no reason not to do it.

Chef Ketut: Consistency is the key. Flavour comes first

Chef Ketut: We just changed our menu last month and

and it can only be produced from a passion. I make it

you will find that Kayuputi now offers Asian-inspired

my personal mission to come each day and give our

cuisine. We have also incorporated more locally sourced

guests the best dining experience that they will ever

ingredients to our menu, since we found an amazing

have.

supplier with exceptional produce.

Text by Eve

let’s shake

Fresh Rosso Rosemary A combination of fresh berries, tequila and a fragrant stem of rosemary makes the Rosso Rosemary an intoxicating cocktail, perfect for balmy tropical nights. Putu Dariatma, Bar Manager of Rosso Vivo Dine & Lounge explains that rosemary is even better than lime as a mixer, thanks to its subtle sweetness and fresh aroma which mask the taste of alcohol.

Ingredients 45 ml tequila 15 ml blackcurrant liqueur 2 tsp berry jam 6 fresh raspberries 1 stem fresh rosemary ice cubes

Putu Dariatma, Bar Manager Rosso Vivo Dine & Lounge Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta

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2

1

Prepare all the ingredients.

Pour raspberries into a glass.

4

5

Muddle until perfectly mixed

Add berry jam and whisk well.

7

8

Add blackcurrant liquor and ice cubes.

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Shake it well.

3

Add rosemary.

6

Add the tequila.

9

Drink!

let’s eat! 53

the insider

Bondan Winarno

How do you define Indonesian cuisine? Is it possible to define it?

I maintain my position in saying that there is no such thing as Indonesian cuisine. Instead, what we have is a complex array of regional cuisines bound by the nation’s diversity. One nation, millions of flavours! Not only are our traditional culinary traditions provincial, each one also displays a unique terroir (local character).

Whoever said Minang food only comes in one genre? Rendang Payakumbuh has a different take from Rendang Kapau. Even Satay Padang comes in three versions: Padangpanjang,

Pariaman

and

Danguang-danguang.

Aside from being a celebrated culinary expert and TV personality in Indonesia, Bondan Winarno is also a prolific writer and a passionate advocate on the heritage of Indonesian food. We manage a brief chat before his appearance at the first ever Ubud Food Festival from 5-7 June.

We all know Indonesian cuisine is more than just rendang and nasi goreng. However, those two are the only relatively well known dishes from Indonesia.

Why is that?

It has been more than a decade since I began answering such a question. But, sadly, the answer has not changed much. I think it is the job of the government to promote our country to the outside world.

Among our exotic heritage, cuisine is definitely one aspect that most people would be attracted to. To be frank, the government has done very little to promote our exotic cuisines.

In 2011, I got a little funding from

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the government to produce a TV show for AFC (Asian Food Channel) entitled Taste of Indonesia. Although the program was deemed to be successful in elevating awareness about Indonesian traditional cuisines, the budget was only good for thirteen episodes. I tried raising funds from the private sector, but got no luck. We were only lucky when CNNGo in 2010 placed rendang and nasi goreng as the world’s most delectable food. In contrast, we see our neighbouring countries that have been quite aggressive in promoting their cuisines.

In term of fine dining, will Indonesian cuisine ever be placed in the same level with other Asian cuisine, to be presented in fine dining establishments all over the world?

Yes and yes. What does Thailand/Malaysia/Vietnam have that we don’t? We have so much traditional cooking that just needs a little tweak to be presented as amuse bouche, an appetiser, main course, dessert, or snack.

Whichever style you want to present it in – degustation, formal dinner, buffet, even tapas-style – Indonesian cuisine can face the challenge.

What is your favourite Indonesian cuisine?

Until ten years ago, my answer would be Minang cuisines, simply because I was raised in the West Sumatra capital of Padang. But, as I grew older, I switched to a healthier alternative. My favourite dishes are now from Minahasan cuisines in North Sulawesi, because they are mostly made of fish, cooked fresh a la minute and are very tasty and aromatic. If asked to name one Minahasan dish I would die for, the answer is: garoupa woku blanga – stewed grouper in aromatic herbs and spices.

What is your favourite Indonesian cuisine?

During a taping for a TV show, we shot a poor fishermen village in Madura. The old lady served simple rice with special sambal and fish dish. The taste was out of this world. At that time, she sold it at a meagre 3,000 rupiah (about 22 cents in USD). Then an old fisherman came with only 1,000 rupiah asking for a little rice. The lady gave him a full portion. Upon seeing it, my heart went to my throat.

What do you nowadays apart from exploring the country and eating?

At Ubud Food Festival Bondan Winarno will bring his

Since my TV show stopped early last year, I have decided

Eelke Plasmeijer (Locavore), pastry queen Janice

that the time is ripe for me and my wife to move out

Wong and recently minted entrants to ‘Asia’s Best 50

of Jakarta. We have a piece of land in Ubud and since

Restaurants’, Dave Pynt and Ryan Clift, with more guests

last October we’ve started building our home. After we

still to be announced.

move to Ubud later this year, I’ll try my best to keep my promise to write more. I have four novel projects which are still filed on floppy disks (this indicates how long it has been kept aside). I truly hope that I can say no to all those invitations which require my presence in so many other places.

expertise to the table alongside Bara Pattiradjawane, Chris Salans (Mozaic), Will Goldfarb (Room4Dessert),

Bondan will chat about avoiding culinary cliches with food writer Laksmi Pamuntjak in a free panel discussion, and will also interview a global icon of Indonesian food, Sri Owen, amongst other not-to-be-missed sessions.

To learn more about Ubud Food Festival, to be held on June 5 – June 7, 2015 in Ubud, Bali please go to www.ubudfoodfestival.com.

Text by Eve

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let’s eat! 55

let’s sip

Jim & Jack

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Drinking for 2 Included on an exclusive list of the world’s most famous restaurants, ‘Les Grande Tables Du Monde’ (The Grand Tables of the World), Mozaic Restaurant, Ubud has long been recognised as one of the best fine dining experiences in Bali. Its sister location, Mozaic Beachclub offers a more chilled, yet equally classy experience.

Located on Batu Belig Beach, Mozaic

uninterrupted poetic views of the blue sea

Beachclub is a wonderful place to enjoy

and red sky.

signature cocktails and exquisite dishes prepared by Chef James Ephraim and his dynamic team. True to the legacy of Chef Chris Salans from the Mozaic flagship, the menu is consistently innovative and inspired by the season, as well as local ingredients.

A DJ is spinning tunes when we arrive at sunset; his deck is located next to the pool and a long white bar. It is easy to spend a leisurely full day here with its relaxed vibe, beach views, tasty cocktails and diverse menu to suit one’s whim and fancy. We choose to sit in the elegant dining room on the second floor which provides us with

True to Mozaic’s passion for incorporating local produce, most of the cocktails are made of tropical fruits and sorbets and use no artificial ingredients. The delightfully named Jim & Jack, for example, is a distinctive concoction made of jackfruit and jackfruit sorbet, passion fruit puree and starchy jackfruit flesh. A slight sourness from the passionfruit hits me first, followed immediately by powerful sweet jackfruit flavour. It goes really well with our sea tapas, Baby Octopus and Crispy Pork Belly with its accompanying cuts of apple and a special crackling crispy pork skin.

let’s eat! 57

Fine de Claire Oysters

My partner’s Delinger is another

Delinger

interesting example of Mozaic Beachclub’s signature cocktails.

It is made of pink ginger flower

been my favourite Indonesian dish and

or kecombrang in Indonesian, an

finding it transformed into a tasty warm

ingredient that is typically found

ball of deep-fried croquette is a truly

in local Indonesian food. The

wonderful experience.

creativity of the mixologist gives

Beautifully attired guests started to come

birth to a fragrant drink made of ginger flower sorbet, strawberries and Ketel One vodka. A bowl of Fine de Claire Oysters with tasty Japanese yuzu dressing is our next treat as well as the tempting Beef Rendang Cromesquis with Green Chilli. Beef Rendang has always

in and join us in the Dining Room. The sun is almost fully set and it brings a romantic darkness filled with ocean mist.

We smile at each other happily and are than ready to enter the next phase of this lovely evening at Mozaic Beachclub, dinner for two. Eve

Mozaic Beach Club I Jalan Pantai Batu Belig, Kerobokan I +62 361 4735796

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let’s eat! 59

decadent desserts

Dome

Sweet Delights 60 let’s eat!

In this delightful little patisserie in Ubud, French cakes get a tropical twist, and smooth lustrous caramel appears in many guises.

Mango Tango

Drip Coffee w/ Caramel Milk

With a great location on Jalan Hanoman, amidst the clothes boutiques, funky cafes and art stores. Caramel Patisserie and Café blends French panache with Indonesian flavour – in both decor and taste. Colourful macarons are arranged in a tower in the gleaming shop window and Macarons

as I step inside I am assaulted by an intoxicating sweet aroma of chocolate, mango, strawberry and coffee. A glass counter brims with glistening cakes, jars of tiramisu and neat lines of macarons that come in 20 different flavours.

A narrow staircase leads to a cosy roof terrace overlooking the street. Half way up, an alcove displays gorgeous hand printed batik sarongs from Jogjakarta and silver coated wayang (shadow puppets) that are available for purchase.

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let’s eat! 61

Lush, gooey and delicious, its hard to imagine a more

breton. The Mango Tango is tart and tropical, cool and

seductively sweet flavour than caramel, and when

sweet with a mango mousse concealing a passion fruit

blended with salt it’s a taste that is close to perfection.

coulis.

Jars of homemade Salted Caramel are sold, and ideal for smothering pancakes, ice cream and waffles. I opt for a Drip Coffee with Caramel Milk. The coffee is a rich and acidic house blend of Torajan and Java Arabica beans, customised by boutique coffee maker, Java Dancer, to cut through the sweetness of the desserts.

The thick pale caramel is served on the side and adds a sweet depth of flavour.

Chef Jessica Lestariana has an interesting story and is somewhat of an accidental chef. She was actually studying to be a graphic designer in Lyon, France, and admits to getting a little obsessed with macarons, which became the design theme for her final presentation, and spurred a whole new passion – to master the art of patisserie. Not surprisingly, her macarons at Caramel are good – chewy, dense and filled with thick creamy

Monggo Artisanal chocolate from Java is used in cakes

fillings. Flavours include a bright red Chocolate Chilli

and pastries, including the Dome, a shiny chocolate

with quite a spicy kick, a sweet Salted Caramel and a

affair with a dreamy filling of Bailey’s chocolate mousse,

rather fabulous Nutella Coconut. Afternoon tea is also

cashew butter and chocolate sponge. A burst of salted

served daily, with a selection of savoury and sweet

caramel in the middle comes as a lovely surprise and

treats, and the option of adding on macaron tasting.

the crispy cocoa nibs arranged around the base add contrasting texture. The Blanco is a glistening shade of red. I eat the candied rosella off the top first, which goes beautifully with the decorative white chocolate curl. Slicing in reveals a pale pink, rosella-flavoured cream cheese mousse resting on a crunchy sable

I also recommend the seriously refreshing Calamansi Lime, one of Jessica’s childhood drinks from her native Borneo. It tastes like liquid marmalade, and is made from stewing calamansi limes and sugar then adding ice and water. Alison

Caramel Patisserie & Cafe I Jl Raya Hanoman no. 4B Ubud I +62 361 970847

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let’s eat! 63

hungerlust

The Perfect Phô The fast paced charm of Ho Chi Minh turned out to be the perfect setting to learn about the country and hunt down the best bowl of phô.

from the motorcycles on the streets instantly brought me back to the present.

The streets come alive at night and one could immediately see how much the locals enjoy eating out. Food stalls are available on every corner with the usual company of tiny plastic chairs. I strolled along the tourist street of Pham Ngu Lao and All I knew about Vietnam was what America made it to be in films or books. Only after arriving in Vietnam did I found out that the Vietnam War was called the American War by the Vietnamese. My first stop in this tour of duty was Ho Chi Minh, or as I call it over and over again by its vintage name, Saigon.

The name conjures an exotic bewitching appeal of a bygone era but when I arrived, an incessant honking

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immediately veered off a few blocks, looking for a restaurant filled with local people slurping noodles.

Soon, I found myself sitting outside with other people, a giant bowl of noodles with few thinly slices beef in front of me, with accompanying side dish of coriander, bean sprout and chillies. The portion was generous, the smell divine and the beef broth was so tasty I gulped it down like water.

It was as good as I imagined it to be.

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For the next few days, I walked around the city admiring its French accents. Wide avenues, small green parks in the middle of the city and even a Notre Dame Cathedral were so French in style.

The French colonials sure left their mark on the street names, as well as a special sandwich made with a baguette. BĂĄnh mi sandwiches are everywhere on the street and filled with various toppings and a mix of eastern and western ingredients such as mayonnaise, cilantro, daikon with marinated beef or pork. It is a light and fulfilling snack and became my favourite staple while I was there. This beloved Vietnamese dish has been going global lately, along with Vietnamese cuisine which is known for its fresh and healthy qualities.

Visiting Ben Thanh Market was another activity that I enjoyed.

Aside from being the largest oldstyle market in the central district, it offered endless shopping options and as soon as you left it, you would realise that you had bought quite a lot of things that you didn’t actually need but needed to buy. Closing my last day with a glass of beer from local brewery, I was glad that I make the decision to do the stop-over in this city before my trip to the rest of the country. Eve

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let’s eat! 65

food talk

talking fine dining

reservation

pesan tempat

special

khusus

elegant

anggun

Eating Out = Makan di Luar pronunciation The rule of thumb is that Indonesian is pronounced as it is written. a

as in ‘part’

c

as in ‘chair’

ē/e

as in ‘get’ or ‘may’

g

as in ‘goal’

i

as in ‘doing’

ua

as in ‘wa’

o

as in ‘dog’

ny

as in ‘canyon’

u

as in ‘you’

talking food

wine anggur luxury

mēwah

food words cumin jintan corn jagung breadcrumbs

tepung roti

rice flour

tepung beras

vinegar cuka tamarind asam octopus gurita crab kepiting tofu tahu chicken stock clam

kaldu ayam

kerang

mango mangga

I want to sit outside

Saya mau duduk di luar

Are you open for dinner?

Apakah buka untuk makan malam?

Do you have a baby chair?

Ada kursi untuk anak kecil?

Do you have a special menu for today? Ada menu special hari ini?

Can I cancel the order please?

Boleh saya batalkan pesanannya?

Can I take it home?

Boleh tolong dibungkus?

I’d like...

Saya mau...

to order

memesan

to eat

makan

to drink

meminum

expensive

mahal

cheap

murah

one kilogram

satu kilo

one plate

satu piring

three bag

tiga bungkus

a dozen

satu lusin

five pieces

lima buah

This is...

Ini...

acidic asam

terlalu manis

too big

terlalu besar

too sweet

cold dingin salty asin

steam kukus grill panggang

66 let’s eat!

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e

n

EAT T

e

s

l

d

-

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o t c e ir

ry

map

and d

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BALI 68 let’s eat!

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SEMINYAK KUTA

let’s eat! 69

Ubud Sanur 70 let’s eat!

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let’s eat! 71

jimbaran

Nusadua

Directory.

Sanur, Ubud

Art Kafe

Bamboo Bar & Lounge

D’Star Bar & Resto

Live acoustic music, eclectic art, retro decor and a global menu provide the ingredients for Art Kafe, an atmospheric eatery on Monkey Forest.

The newly expanded Bamboo Bar & Lounge provides a tranquil setting for lazy afternoons accompanied by tasty snacks, wood fired pizza and fruity cocktails right on the beach in Sanur.

A whimsical restaurant with relaxed, fun and family-friendly attitude and signature Balinese and barbeque dishes, set in a lush and artistic compound.

Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud

Prama Sanur Beach Bali, Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur | P +62 361 288 011

Jl. Raya Mas Ubud P +62 361 849 3601

Hujan Locale

Living Food Lab

Locavore

Providing a twist on traditional Indonesian food, Hujan Locale also serves a combination of dishes typically found in the backstreet kitchens of south east Asia, and focuses on slow grassroots cooking.

An experiment in conscious eating, Living Food Lab also celebrates the notion of food as an art form, with meals beautifully served on wicker plates lines with ornamentallycut banana leafs.

Winner of the 2014 Traveller’s Choice award for ‘Best Fine Dining in Indonesia,’ Locavore uses local ingredients to create beautifully presented, imaginative, modern European cuisine.

Jl. Sri Wedari No. 5, Ubud P +62 361 849 3092

Jl. Monkey Forest 88x, Ubud

Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud P +62 361 977 733

Petani Restaurant at Alaya Ubud

Tsavo Lion Restaurant

Yanies Restaurant

A casual dining venue with seating for up to 120 guests, Petani celebrates the diverse flavours of the Indonesian archipelago.

Serving buffet breakfast and home-style regional cuisine for lunch and dinner.

With its African-inspired décor and distinctive fine dining menu created by an award-winning chef, Tsavo provides a unique experience.

All-day dining offering Indonesian, Japanese, Asian and Western specialties, including a separate outdoor barbecue and grill station that sizzles with sumptuous made-to-order alfresco fare.

Jl. Hanoman, Ubud

Bali Safari & Marine Park Jalan By Pass Ida Bagus Mantra Km. 19,8 Gianyar

Ubud Adventure Centre Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud P +62 361 898 9777

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Seminyak, Canggu

Best of Bali

Cafe Cous Cous

Crab Bar

An all-encompassing experience, from New York-style steakhouse, to Japanese robatayaki, and VIP roof top bar.

Serving up delightfully fresh and healthy food including Middle Eastern specialties and generous all day breakfasts.

Casual and raucous, this restaurant definitely lives up to its cheerful tagline ‘Hot Crab, Cold Beer’.

Jl. Raya Petitenget No 27C P +62 361 474 1122

Jl Bumbak | P +62 361 750 998

Jl. BatuBelig 106 P +62 361 849 9316

Desa Seni, A Village Resort

Angelita Tea Salon and Patisserie

Mantra

One of the most unique experiences in Bali with its drop-in yoga classes and flourishing organic gardens that provide the freshest fruit, vegetables and herbs for the restaurant.

A french patisserie that also serves mouthwatering savoury dishes in a classical setting on the busy street of kerobokan.

Truly a hidden gem.

Modern Australian cuisine made with local ingredients and imbued with Asian flavour, including exotic Indonesian herbs and spices.

P +62 361 844 6392

Jl Raya Kerobokan no 10A Banjar Taman Kerobokan Bali +62361 7473138 / +6281 238 974 888

Jalan Petitenget 77X P +62 361 473 7681

Primo Bali

Smokehouse BBQ

The Parlour

An artisan chocolate factory with a mission to make a world a better place through good chocolate.

Treat yourself to a carnivore’s dream with all the trappings! Thursday evenings at Anantara.

Funky retro design meets a tasty menu of eastern and western-style comfort food in the heart of Petitenget.

Jl. Bumbak 130X Banjar Anyar Kelod – Kerobokan P +62 361 743 3853

Wild Orchid Restaurant at Anantara, Seminyak Bali Resort &Spa P +62 361 737 773

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 15XX P +62 361 473 4654

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Kuta and North Bali, Nusa Dua

Bali Asli

Camilla Mozzarella Bali

Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub

Promoting Balinese cuisine and culture, Bali Asli works with the local community by supporting those who fish, farm and forage in the nearby fields, ocean and jungle.

Experience a delectable range of artisan cheese combining ancient recipes from southern Italy with local dairy products.

Authentically designed with antique Irish paraphernalia and souvenirs, Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub is the perfect place to have a great time in the heart of Kuta.

Jl. Glumpang, Amlapura, Karangasem P +62 8289 703 0098

Jl. Sunset Road 1X Seminyak

Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Poppies II 7c, Kuta | P +62 361 752 403

Lembongan Beach Club

Paradise Dynasty

Sembilan

A gourmet dining experience on the small sunny island of Lembongan, with a beachside menu consisting of classic and fusion dishes.

Amazing signature dumplings and Northern Chinese cuisine served in elegant surrounds.

A definite modern Balinese dining venue, combining island culinary traditions with contemporary presentation.

Pantai Jungut Batu, Nusa Lembongan P +62 361 737 282

Beachwalk L1 #B-12, 12A, Jalan Pantai Kuta | P +62 361 8465 582

Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian | +62 361 762500

Tetaring at Kayumanis Nusa Dua

The Caffeine Coffee Shop

The Warung at Alila Villas Uluwatu

An elegant dining venue introducing guests to the authentic flavours of cuisine from around the Indonesian archipelago.

A warm and affordable place slightly hidden from the street, serving good strong coffee and more.

Fabulous Indonesian cuisine with sublime ocean views creating a one-of-a kind experience.

BTDC Area Nusa Dua P.O. Box 777 Nusa Dua P +62 361 770777

Jl. Legian Kaja No. 462 Kuta +62 361 750 998

Jl Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu P +62 361 848 2166

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a sophisticated dining experience

Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com www.thegangsa.com

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