Let's Eat!Magazine November 2015 Edition

Page 1

NOVEMBER 2015 EDITION 75

ISSN 2085-5907

An Evening of Glamour

Robert Marchetti The Plantation Grill

The Secret Garden

Gardin Bistro & Patisserie

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www.thegangsa.com

www.kayumanis.com

Chefs’ Collaboration 2015

“A journey to Bali and beyond...” Friday, November 27, 2015 at Kayumanis Nusa Dua Private Villa & Spa, BTDC Area, Nusa Dua Further Information: P. 62-361 705 777 I F. 62-361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com



Contents

30

38 38 NOVEMBER Musings

22 Hooked on Classics

The Latest

Behind The Taste

12-15

34 The Innovator Kevin Cherkas Cuca

Local Cuisine 16 Revealing Indonesian Cuisine Husk Restaurant Royal Beach Seminyak

The Essentials 20 Jimbaran Style

The Newest

Our Cover Photo by: Heri Obrink Location: The Plantation Grill

26 Indonesia with a Twist The Bar

The Main Affair 38 An Evening of Glamour Robert Marchetti The Plantation Grill

Spotlight 42 A Jewel in Petitenget Jemme

Must Try

Street Food

30 The Secret Garden Gardin Bistro & Patisserie

46 Jinggo Babi Kecap

Traditional Recipe 48 Babi Kecap

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The abundance of Bali’s artistic value, the lavish island’s natural beauty and diversity of culture, become our inspiration in creating meaningful ideas.

: V i s i Wo r l d

w w w.v i s i wo r l d . a s i a

PT. Khrisna Inter Visi Media Jalan Raya Kuta 88R, Kuta Bali - Indonesia 80361 Phone +62 361 755 136. Fax + 62 361 762 241


16 58

The Specialists 50 I Made Putra

The Laguna

Christoper Smith

The Stones Legian

42

The Insider 52 Lomas Gration

Republik 45

Special Section 54 The Big(ger) Feast

Let's Cook 58 Ice Rujak

Decadant Dessert 60 Poule de Luxe

Hungerlust 62 Taiwan

Land of Night Markets

Regulars 66 Food Talk 67 Map & Directory

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editor’s note

T

here comes a time in your life when you realise how quickly time passes by, and how many good things feel like they happened just yesterday. One such good time was the Big Feast 2015, in which we

celebrated the 6th anniversary of Let’s eat! Magazine over a fabulous weekend in September (p.54.) The First Taste series of pre-events at various locations led us into three days at Beachwalk Bali filled with endless culinary action, a fascinating food bazaar, food challenges & games, music and art performances. People connected through their passion for food and also gave their support for local culinary talent and restaurateurs. For us, it was a true pleasure and honour to be able to facilitate the bridging of foodies and culinary actors as we created a melting pot of culinary aficionados in Bali. Speaking of memories and nostalgia, in this month’s issue we go in search of classic dining experiences on the island. Check out our selection in our story 'Hooked on Classics'; from a classic American-style diner, to a traditional Balinese warung, and an authentic southern Italian restaurant (p.22.) Robert Marchetti The Plantation Grill made the perfect cover shot and a graceful setting for our main affair with its charming old world ambience and flavours (p.38.) In this issue we also get up close and personal with delicious cream puffs at Poule de Luxe (p.60), chat with Lomas Gration at Republik 45 (p.52), and check out the cocktails and snacks at Bar (p.26.) The one and only Kevin Cherkas also leads us Behind the Taste with his highly innovative 'Cuca Cuisine' (p.34), while award-winning photographer Alland Dharmawan takes us to Taiwan for Hungerlust (p.62.) Truly happy memories always live on, and tend to shine the brightest. One by one, over time, they come back to life, so why not get yourself hooked on classics this month!

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your culinary guide

Senior Advisor A.A. Ngr. Mahendra Editor-in-Chief Managing Director Ayu Sawitri Hapsari Patricia TA Bid Business Development Alison Elisabeth Bone Managing Editor Marchya Priscilla Writers Menur Astuti Eve Tedja Kartika Dewi Suardana Art Director Rikke Huang Graphic Designer Genta Sp Photographer Heri Obrink Account Director Indra Iwan Putra (accountdirector@visiworld.asia) Account Executive Arieta Sara Trikrisna (accountexec@visiworld.asia) Aditya Pradikta Furry (accexecutive@visiworld.asia) Distribution & Circulation AA. Mayun, I Nyoman Supartika, Made Adnyana Cultural Advisor Kadek Wahyudita ‘Penggak’ OFFICE Khrisna Building II, 2nd Floor, Jalan Raya Kuta 88R, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia P+62 361 961 0066 F+62 361 762 241 contact@letseatmag.com www.letseatmag.com I www.visiworld.asia letseatmag

A well seasoned travel writer, Alison explored the world before arriving in Bali, where she quickly succumbed to the island’s exotic charms. Trading nomadic journeys for adventures of a culinary kind, she happily spends her time writing about restaurants and working on her first novel. alison.e.bone@gmail.com

Menur shares her time between Manado and Bali and admits she still hasn’t had the guts to try Manadonese Paniki – a dish made from bats, but she promises to write about it when she has. When in Bali, she loves trying new restaurants with friends, and particularly enjoys Vietnamese and Indian food, Connect with her @menurastuti

@letseatmag

Eve’s family motto has always been ‘live to eat rather than eat to live.’ Aside from eating, she also loves to write, travel, design and cook (although, admittedly that also involves eating.) Occasionally, you can find her bragging about where she eats and travels in her tweets @evetedja

Dewi has been working as an independent writer since 2005, and her book ‘Dances of Bali’ has sold more than 2000 copies. Aside from writing she is also passionate about diving, photography and actively volunteers for several non-profit organisations that are engaged in conservation work.

Let’s Eat! Magazine is published monthly under the direction of PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by the editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Let’s Eat! are reserved by PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Let’s Eat! is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2013 Let’s Eat! ISSN 2085-5907 A Member of

www.kg.co.id

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BALI

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@idawijayanti +62 815 4738 3991


the latest

Monsieur Spoon in Ubud Already a huge hit in the south of Bali thanks to delicious croissants, rustic breads and fine pastries, the French baking phenomenon, Monsieur Spoon has now arrived in Ubud. Inspired by the spirit and natural beauty of this charming arts village in the hills, the team at Monsieur Spoon have heartily embraced Ubud’s healthy, low waste, community vibe. The new location on atmospheric Jalan Hanoman, right in the centre of Ubud means an exciting new menu, including fresh vegetable drinks, gluten free breads and cakes, salads, crepes and sandwiches. Of course their legendary croissants, macarons and baguettes are offered too. Beat the heat in the cool air conditioned interior or head out to the peaceful garden – perfect for those who enjoy an al fresco setting for their French artisanal baking experience. Opening 15 November. Monsieur Spoon Ubud Jl Hanoman, Ubud +62 361973263. Check the website for shop locations in Canggu, Oberoi and Umalas. www.monsieurspoon.com

Go North The beautiful North Coast of Bali is one of the lesser known treasures of the island. However this is about to change with the exciting new tourism initiative, Visit North Bali Alliance. The initiative was founded by three wellrespected and long-established companies, namely BT Cocoa, Atlas Pearls & Perfumes and Hatten Wines. All three companies are offering great activities and exciting experiences for guests to choose from, be it a visit to a pearl farm, Hatten’s extensive vineyards or the Cocoa museum and plantations of BT Cocoa. Check it out! www.visitnorthbali.com

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A Pleasant Surprise Alila’s fifth property in Bali finally opened its doors in October. Alila Seminyak, set in the heart of Bali’s most sophisticated neighbourhood, amidst world class restaurants, boutiques and nightspots offers guests wonderful beachfront views and signature dining experiences. The resort comprises of 240 contemporary styled rooms and suites, designed with the sophisticated Alila signature and EarthCheck standards. Room rates start from USD 265++ per night based on two people sharing. Jalan Taman Ganesha No. 5, Petitenget +62 361 3021888.

The Mighty Matador Bali’s first big food truck has rolled into town. Paying tribute to Spain’s legendary bullfighter Juan Belmonte, El Matador boasts a fabulous mural, and serves up a tasty fusion of Latin American and Mexican cuisine, with a touch of Korea thrown into the mix. This means big fat burgers, grilled cheese steak with Korean marinade, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken mariachi and of course hand cut fries. Vegetarians can sink their teeth into a champignon mojito, while coffee lovers will be satiated with a freshly brewed latte or espresso. El Matador is on the move, look for it around Kerobokan, Petitenget, Seminyak Square and Park 23, or follow their movements on Facebook # El Matador Truck and Instagram. Let the good times roll! +62 819 9907 2371.

Pink for a Cause With a triumphant fanfare, the annual Bali Pink Ribbon Charity Dinner was recently held in the ballroom of The Trans Resort Bali. The charity dinner successfully raised much-needed funds to support the Bali Pink Ribbon Foundation in running their program to promote awareness, education and care to support Balinese women in the fight against breast cancer. The event was enlivened by artists and musicians as well as an exciting art auction by renowned Balinese painters and artisans. www.balipinkribbon.com www.letseatmag.com

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Sophisticated Lady Hatten Wines is proud to announce the recent appointment of Nyoman Kertawidyawati as part of the Hatten Wines family. The experienced Head of the Indonesian Sommelier Association Bali Chapter is now in charge of the on-going training and hosting facilities in Sanur. She is also responsible for creating the upcoming wine classroom and its various programs as well as making sure that the wine lifestyle boutique is ready to welcome guests by the first quarter of 2016. www.HattenWines.com

Decadent November The Mulia, Nusa Dua is delighted to offer exciting culinary experiences at its various restaurants during the month of November. Soleil Sunday Brunch is back by popular demand, while new Mediterranean and Pan-Asian dishes are being served for Friday and Saturday dinner. Edogin Japanese Restaurant is also creating a special Hot Pot Rice to be shared with your loved ones while Table8 is offering a special Cantonese recipe of Mantis Prawn. The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas – Nusa Dua Bali, Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, P +62 361 3017777.

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A Night like This One of Seminyak’s much-loved boutique cafes is now officially opened at night. Sisterfields, renowned for its tasty breakfast and lunch menu is now serving dinner until 10pm every Wednesday through Saturday. Created especially by Executive Chef Jethro Vincent, the dinner menu includes carnivorously decadent Short Ribs as well as lighter dishes like Pan Fried Barramundi. Tempting desserts are not excluded, so make sure to give Sisterfields a try. Sisterfields, Jalan Kayu Cendana No. 7 Seminyak, P +62 811 3860507.

The Sicilian Star Bella Cucina Italian Restaurant once again grants us an exceptional series of events led by Chef Massimo Mantarro of Principe Cerami Restaurant in Sicily. This renowned chef has been awarded two Michelin stars for his exceptional innovation in transforming conventional Sicilian classics into light and exciting modern Mediterranean cuisine. From the 4th to 8th November 2015, the restaurant will host a series of events including cooking classes, gastronomic dinners and a wine dinner with seven course tasting menu. Bella Cucina Italian Restaurant at InterContinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45 Jimbaran, P +62 361 701888.

Cleaning Up Bali A 21 kilometre section of Bali’s coastline was scoured for trash during the International Coastal Cleanup. 2,000 eco-warriors from 120 hotels under the Bali Hotel Association joined forces to clear several beaches and rivers divided into 10 zones from Nusa Dua to Ubud. The participants also separated various kinds of garbage collected for further recycling, collecting an astounding total of 1,525 kilograms of garbage bags. www.balihotelassociation.com www.letseatmag.com

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local cuisine

Revealing

Indonesian

Cuisine

Recently rebranded, Husk restaurant at The Royal Beach Seminyak Bali refines the flavours of the archipelago.

E

to a sweet mix of banana and coconut milk, and is made to commemorate Indonesian heritage in line with the resort’s concept of creating a memorable experience. With the coming of evening, traditional stalls showcasing local spices and ingredients are set up. The semi-fine dining experience offers a romantic ambience with its

xecutive Chef, Gede Sujana, comes from Bangli and

soft lights and silhouettes. Each table is decorated with

has been with Husk for over 20 years. He explains that

a traditional Indonesian tablecloth, and a list of fine wines

Husk’s main mission is to reveal Indonesian cuisine

accompanies the menu of delectable items from around

from east to west, “The menu celebrates the true essence

the archipelago.

of Indonesian cuisine on the international scene,” he says. Our appetiser was Gohu Ikan Tuna, crisp Indonesian Cocktails arrive as the sun sets over Seminyak beach.

ceviche made with fresh tuna and lemon basil, best

Royal B**ch is a great aperitif, while Royal Serenity, their

eaten right away. We had two main courses, starting with

signature cocktail, is much favoured by the ladies thanks

Ikan Masak Woku from Manado, North Sulawesi which

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Your best guide to have the unforgettable culinary journey in Bali.

Let’s eat! Magazine now available at Books & Beyond.

Medan • Palembang • Jakarta • Bandung • Bali Balikpapan • Makassar • Manado

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is famous for chillies and spices including kaffir lime leaves. The fish is rich with coconut milk flavour. Saksang Ayam was the second main dish and originates from North Sumatra’s coastal area and is made with tender country chicken soaked in spiced coconut milk. The time came to sweeten our palates with two desserts, one hot and one cold. The hot Godoh is an authentic Balinese dessert made of fried banana with a lime zest twist to give that little surprise taste. The cold dessert is Jamu Sorbet, based on a traditional Indonesian herbal drink made with tamarind and turmeric and then frozen. It tastes good and is also good for the digestive system. We left Husk with content, healthy stomachs, ready to go back and enjoy the rest of the quiet evening by the beach.

Husk Restaurant The Royal Beach Seminyak - MGallery Collection Hotel

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Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak P + 62 361 730 730 I Open 6.30pm - 10.30pm I

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the essentials

JIMBARAN STYLE

A balanced combination of taste, colour and texture, as well as the freshest ingredients are the key to creating a perfect dish, such as the delicous seafood platter, 'Jimbaran Style' served up at Samudera Restaurant.

Squid Rich in vitamin B complex it contains all the essential amino acids required for the body.

Prawn Has high levels of omega 3 fatty acid, low levels of mercury, and is healthy for the circulatory system.

Clam Contains many vitamins and minerals, and is low in fat, but still packs a lot of protein and iron.

Balinese seasoning

Red snapper

Special spice ingredients help to rejuvenate body cells and liven up taste buds.

A low calorie, lean source of protein that isrich in selenium, vitamin A, pottasium and omega-3 fatty acids.

Samudera Restaurant - Grand Istana Rama Hotel Kuta Bali , Jalan Pantai Kuta | +62 361752208



musings

While ‘contemporary’ is the current buzz word, and fusion cuisine is slowing coming back into vogue, there is always room at the dinner table for something of the more classic persuasion. In the mood for a little nostalgia, we searched the island for some archetypal dining experiences and came up with an American-style diner, a timeless Balinese warung, authentic imperial-style Chinese food, traditional Italian fare and some quintessential French cooking. Text by Alison


THE IMPERIALIST Table 8 at Mulia provides an impressive imperial-style Chinese dining experience with choice of buffet, extensive a la carte menu and ‘all you can eat’ dim sum. Peking duck dangles from hooks in the carvery, Braised Imperial Bird’s Nest comes with crab meat, and ‘Buddha Jump Over the Wall’ is a house specialty. Interiors are lavishly decorated in Chinoiserie – a whimsical style portraying a fanciful version of the exotic east, much favoured by aristocrats and European monarchs in the 18th century. Imagine hand-painted silks, finely painted ceramics, gold embroidered cushions and ornately carved emperor chairs. Decadence peaks in the private dining room, inspired by China’s Empress Dowager Ci Xi, and filled with glittering customised crystal chandeliers.

Must Try The Tea Ritual. Marvel as the highly trained tea master expertly pours hot water from a long nosed brass kettle in a blaze of impressive Kung Fu moves.

FOOD FOR THE GODS Exploring the unique Balinese relationship between food and the divine, Kayun Restaurant and Lounge in Mas provides a highly authentic traditional style Balinese dining experience. Thatched pavilions encircle the garden and overlook a traditional open-air kitchen fuelled by a log fire, where some of the dishes are prepared. Drinks range from healthy Loloh (healing tonic) to locally made Brem (rice wine), while food is beautifully presented in ornate ceremonial style. Highlights include rice and vegetables cooked in bamboo, and Lotus Rice decoratively wrapped in a lotus leaf.

Must Try Nasi Saraswati comes on a lotus leaf topped with eight small dishes, including river shrimp, spicy chicken, coconut and turmeric rice. Each is an offering and pays tribute to the earth, sky, ocean, rivers and trees. www.letseatmag.com

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ROCK AROUND THE CLOCK Serving up burgers, waffles and pancakes in a fabulously flamboyant 50’s-style setting, Cosmic Diner is the place to head for a real ‘American diner’ experience. Gloriously kitsch and colourful this characterful diner is a lively mix of black and white chequered floors, booths with shiny red vinyl seats, and a plethora of 50’s style memorabilia – from toy robots to old-fashioned candy machines and vintage radios. Walls and tables are plastered with cheeky postcards, movie posters and magazine advertisements from the days when Chevrolet was king, gabardine coats were all the rage and cigarette advertising was still legal.

Must Try The New Yorker – a luscious, frothy, super creamy, absolutely calorific chocolate caramel milkshake is the perfect accompaniment to everything on the menu.

LA DOLCE VITA Italian to the core, Massimo Sacco has carved a little slice of Italy right in the heart of Sanur where he has been serving up classic Italian cuisine for more than 15 years. Alongside traditional Italian pizza and pasta favourites he also prepares a number of typical dishes from his native Lecce – a Baroque city set on the southern Adriatic coast of Italy, such as the Recchitelle a la Massimo featuring ricotta, olives, chili and mint. Designed in traditional Lecce style, the walls of the atmospheric restaurant are covered in black and white photos from old Italian movies as well as sketches and prints from Lecce. Massimo also makes excellent gelato!

Must Try Linguine cu lli Caurri, linguine with fresh delicate crab meat, cherry tomatoes and just a hint of chilli.

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Bon t i t e p Ap


A TOUCH OF P RIS Serving up traditional French cuisine in true brasserie-style Les Buku calls to all those who crave the authentic taste of France. Leather banquette seating hugs the wall, vintage posters adorn the walls, cheerful yellow daisies decorate the tables and classical music makes a rousing sound track. Forget fusion, the dishes here are French classics, think Onglet a L’echalotes – hanger steak in red wine and shallots sauce, Cuisse de Grenouille a la Provencale – crunchy fried frog legs in garlic and tomato sauce ‘a la provencale’, and La Douzaine d’Escargot de Bourgogne – snails cooked with butter garlic and parsley.

Must Try The big, chunky Profiterole stuffed with ice cream and creme anglaise and topped with dark chocolate. Très magnifique!

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the newest

INDONESIA

WITH

A TWIST

As often happens, simplicity tends to belie complexity. Meet BAR, an unpretentious restaurant and, well, bar, that mixes potent cocktails with killer comfort food in Petitenget.

T

he rush of after work traffic had just eased when our group decides to celebrate the weekend with a proper hangout. Based on a recommendation of a friend who swears by the cocktails, we decide to give Bar a go. Delightfully stacked vintage

luggage turned into our table for the evening; while aged wooden chairs and sofa that have withstood the test of time assured us that they would be strong enough to hold us after few drinks.

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Full Moon Seafood Barbecue Thursday, 26 November 2015 IDR 450,000 net per adult Children 4 – 12 years old -50% Dinner at 7.00 pm to 10.30 pm Whatever you’re celebrating, few places are as beautiful as beachside dining at Sakala Beach Club on a night magically lit by the full moon and bonfire. Enjoy an elegant seafood menu at the restaurant with plenty of time to stargaze and perhaps a stroll along the beach with the one you love. Watch the moon rise over the horizon while you taste our delicious BBQ bites, savour a choice of seafood delicacies and enjoy our tantalising sweet desserts. Live entertainment is provided by DJ and saxophone performance.

To book call (62) 361 775 216 or email restaurant@mantrasakala.com Jl. Pratama 95, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua Peninsula, Bali 80363, Indonesia

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Quirky murals decorate the raw interior. Jakarta’s notorious orange bajaj is preserved artfully on one wall near the bar, while a clever juxtaposition of a father riding a bike with his son adorns the other wall. It is apparent that Bar has executed its contemporary upcycling concept superbly. It is vintage and Indonesia, done in details. Ibu Ibu or Madams in Bahasa Indonesia, is a delightful concoction of strawberry and lime, Jack Daniels and Creme de Cassis; a femme fatale in disguise. It also goes really well with the Crispy Parmesan Cheese, salty cheese bites that are gone in no time at all.

The sun has disappeared completely behind Petitenget’s concrete jungle when our second round of drinks is served. I have the Purple Haze with tiny fresh pear cubes, currant vodka and Chambord. I immediately know that none of us are going to drive back tonight. Burgers, rice bowls and buttermilk fried chicken are scattered on our table. The Beef Bowl with Rice is definitely a favourite with its tender and perfectly marinated beef slices, while the Mushroom & Cheese Burger satisfies everyone with its juicy patty and hand-cut fries. The menu is not big but it is nicely done and has enough to satisfy everybody’s whims and fancy on the kind of food that you would like to eat in a bar. Indeed, Bar manages to raise the bar quite high. Eve

BAR I Jl. Petitenget No. 101 I P + 62 361 4740 083 I Open 6pm - 3am I

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must try

The Secret

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Garden

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A Gothic-inspired building partly hidden behind a lush garden sounds like the stuff of fairy tales. Happily, Gardin Bistro & Patisserie actually does exist and is currently serving sumptuous dishes guaranteed to waken any Sleeping Beauties after a night out.

A

host in a flowery dress leads

delights elicits serious attention from

the

us to our table, while the dim

our fellow diners.

mocktail made with an abundance

light of the hallway is gradually

Grapevine

is

an

interesting

of fruit such as apple, grape, lychee

replaced by luminous light from

We take our time to read the menu

and orange, creating a feeling that

the glass ceiling. “We call this seating

and I find it rich in both choices and

one is slurping a garden of eden from

area our glass house,” she explains,

style, boldly mixing the best from the

a glass.

before taking our orders. Beautiful

west and the east. Take our Peach

flower arrangements and splashes

Old Fashioned, a classic concoction

We choose Foie Gras with Manggis

of colour manage to turn Gardin

made of Bourbon whiskey, peach

Salak Puree as our first starter. Aside

into a decidedly feminine place.

liquor, lime and a dash of bitters that

from its beautiful presentation, the

A tempting display cabinet filled

reminds me of a bygone era. The

tropical fruits manage to balance

with freshly-made cakes and sweet

uniquely named I Heard it Through

the richness of foie gras. The thin

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slices of salak or snakefruit with its hint of sourness are delicately intertwined with the sweetness of manggis or mangosteen. It is truly a romantic dish. Our next starter, the Sautéed Shrimp, takes a more masculine approach with its fiery deep-fried shrimp, garlic, chillies and toasted baguette. We decide to be wise and share the main course, making sure that we have enough space for dessert later. Braised Beef Cheek is definitely a nod to Gardin’s Executive Chef Tommy Rook’s English roots. The melt-in-your-mouth tender beef cheek is such a rustic treat while the accompanying mashed potato is delightful, with its garlic bits in every bite. The grey sky above is showering the glass house with a soft glow. Our rest is over as soon as the waiter, carrying a three-tier plate filled with scones, cakes and finger sandwiches comes to our table. The beautiful presentation is already appetising, but after dipping my scone into the fragrant black tea I have to say the taste is just as remarkable. Leaving Gardin later on, I can’t help but look back to check if that I didn’t leave a glass slipper behind. Gardin Bistro & Patisserie I Jl. Petitenget No. 106 Seminyak P + 62 361 8499 799 I Open 10am - 1pm I

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behind the taste

THE INNOVATOR

Combining western techniques mastered in three-star Michelin restaurants in Spain and New York, with the finest ingredients he can find in Indonesia, Chef Kevin Cherkas creates truly inspired, ‘Cuca cuisine’.

Much loved by foodies in the know (including many of the

“Everyone said we were crazy,” says Cherkas, “there was

island’s top chefs,) Cuca is a true collaboration between

a perception that local ingredients have no value because

Kevin Cherkas and his Spanish wife, restaurateur Virginia

they cost nothing.” But the couple were not deterred and

Entizne. Deciding on a sharing-style concept, they settled

spent months searching the islands to discover the best

on a menu of tapas, cocktails and desserts, using only

ingredients in Indonesia, then set to experimenting to see

local ingredients, and by this they meant 100% local.

what they could create.

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“We just want to serve real food to real people who are looking to eat something delicious and spend time with each other.”

Although ingredients are local, the

mint and a rather inspired addition

Meat and Potatoes – inspired by a

flavours are international, with more

of shredded coconut. The Cuban

traditional shepherds pie, is a hearty

than a hint of nostalgia. Tastes are

Corn is a take on corn on the cob,

ragout,

somehow familiar and comforting,

but these grilled baby corn rolled

as, “The last thing you want to eat

but also slightly new at the same

in young parmesan, fresh lime and

before you die.”

time. That’s the Cuca twist! The

parsley could well be the best corn

Watermelon Salad comes with feta,

you will ever have.

which

Cherkas

describes

Meanwhile the

“Local ingredients are just a few hours from being cut from the tree, that matters in terms of quality, flavour and nutrition.”

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Warm Melting Cheese This heavenly dish features a silky, slightly pungent cheese exclusively made by an Italian cheese-maker in Java. Forget the crackers, the texture here comes from crunchy candied granola and dollops of papaya jam.

Rice Crusted Soft Shell Crab

Caramel Apple

“A real deep south kind of dish, like something you would

Who doesn’t love apple pie? This version is deconstructed,

find in New Orleans,” says Cherkas. “Deep fried food

but has all the traditional flavours and elements you

needs to be wickedly crispy – you need to hear the crunch

would expect, “We built the components individually

on the other side of the room.” He achieves this with

then combined them to create something new,” says

a thick rice crust encasing subtlety flavoured crab from

Cherkas. Juicy slow baked apples are braised with sour

Kalimantan with a taste he describes as a ‘Nuance of the

apple glaze, while an American-style waffle is broken into

sea‘. Accompaniments are a good and garlicky Spanish-

buttery croutons and scattered over the top for a crust-

style aioli with parsley, and barbecued pineapple with lime

like texture. As a finishing touch Cherkas, has taken the

vinaigrette, which acts like a palate cleanser by refreshing

spices out of the apples and put them into the Javanese

the mouth ready for the next bite.

black pepper ice cream which "Subtly warms the mouth while simultaneously chilling it.” Cuca I Jl. Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran I P + 62 361 708 066

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the main affair



Channeling the glamour of the 1920’s, Robert Marchetti THE Plantation Grill creates one of Bali’s most sumptuous dining experiences.

W

altzing into Plantation Grill is a little

describes as, “Bringing classics up to date.”

stumbling onto the set of a Great Gatsby

A waiter in a white dinner jacket, black bowtie and black

movie, or maybe Boardwalk Empire. For

and white brogues arrives at our table and expertly

Australian chef/restaurateur, Robert Marchetti, it’s all

tosses us a Raw Tuna Tartare, throwing in black toasted

about, “Bringing back the glamour and romance,” and

sesame seeds, a dollop of horseradish, a dash of soy,

his restaurant harks back to a time when dining was

young coriander leaves and fresh squeezed lime to

fun and theatrical. Marble-top tables, vaulted ceilings,

create the freshest of tastes. The tuna is served on

gracefully curved leather booth seating all add too the

slices of crispy white palm heart and accompanied by

feeling of opulence. As do immaculate wait staff dressed

crunchy white sesame grissini. Another new dish – and

in black and white. Everything about Plantation Grill has

one most perfectly composed, is the Zucchini Flowers.

been designed to make you feel special, so make sure to

Tender zucchini blossoms are stuffed with goat’s curd and

dress up and play the part.

pecorino then coated in crumbs imbued with the delicate flavors of lemon and parmesan. They are teamed with a

Executive chef, Jamie Hogg, who has been with

palm heart salad bursting with the tangy flavour of lemon

Plantation from its inception is departing, and handing

balm, and finished with a smooth gin tomato sauce.

the reigns over to Dutch chef, Geert Vermuelen. The pair

The Slipper Lobster Roll comes as a soft, slightly sweet

have been collaborating on new dishes while staying

brioche filled with a purple cabbage coleslaw, wild green

true to the original semi-fine dining concept which Jamie

salad and delicious, slow cooked buttery lobster.

40 let’s eat!

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Plantation specialties include dry-

For dessert we opt for the light,

right note, with premium aged rum

aged imported beef from Australia,

superbly textured Strawberries “3’s

giving serious depth to a blend of

and line- caught sustainable

a Crowd. Sweet, sticky meringue

kaffir lime leaf and fresh lime juice.

seafood, cooked on customised

goes beautifully with pickled sweet

Innovative margaritas include The

coal and wood grills. We have an

and sour strawberries and creamy

Lady Pomme, delicately flavoured

excellent thick cut, Black Angus

strawberry gelato.

with cucumber-infused tequila, fresh

Beef Tenderloin Fillet simply

pomegranate, blood orange and

served on a fragrant basil salsa

I suggest arriving early and having

agave, but there is nothing delicate

verde and accompany it with a

a pre-dinner cocktail in the Billiard

about the side serve of cucumber

side of Black Truffle Macaroni and

Room, a gorgeous colonial-style

sticks with a fiery chilli and lime

Cheese. Gratinated to perfection

space with its white shutters, stained

dipping sauce. You may also want

and flavoured with garlic, chives

glass windows, leather arm chairs

to try out a signature martini in the

and pancetta, it is rich, creamy

and stunning black velvet drapes.

Sling Bar on the upper level, a dark

and certainly the fanciest mac &

A straight up classic daiquiri, such

and sexy space with more than a hint

cheese I have ever come across.

as the Barrel-aged hits just the

of a speak easy about it. Alison

Robert Marchetti The Plantation Grill I Double Six Luxury Hotel, 4th floor I Jl. Double Six, Seminyak P +62 361 734 300 I Open 6pm – 12am (Sling Bar open till 2am) I

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80-90

let’s eat! 41


spotlight

A Jewel in Petitenget

With a glittering jewellery store at the front and a sumptuous dining room at the back, Jemme is just the place to spoil yourself rotten. 42 let’s eat!

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Jemme sure knows how to create a dazzling entrance! Cabinets brimming with sparkling gems, shiny silver and gleaming gold await, instantly whisking visitors into an opulent world inspired by old world Hollywood glamour. This is jewellery to dress up with; diamonds, opals, emeralds and sapphires all wrapped in elaborate designs, many with a vintage edge. The theme continues as you step through to the restaurant sheathed in richly textured wallpaper and photographs of Hollywood starlets dripping in diamonds. Elaborate crystal chandeliers and ornate gilded mirrors add to the effect, as do the fabulous purple velvet wingbacks and banquette seating in the lounge. While the setting is unabashedly glamorous, the menu is hearty, home style comfort food – albeit lavishly prepared. The Wednesday and Sunday Roasts are a firm favourite with ex-pats and come with all the trimmings, such as roast potatoes, fresh vegetables and cauliflower cheese. Think Roast Beef with Yorkshire pudding, Roast Pork with crackling and apple sauce, and even a Nut Roast for vegetarians. We start our lunch with a Mixed Plate – a chef’s selection of entrees impressively arranged on a heavy glass platter. There are nuggets of cod popcorn, crispy calamari on a tasty fresh green mango salad bursting with the fragrance and flavour of coriander and mint, and a sweet, velvety onion cappuccino served in a shot glass which is quite let’s eat! 43


unlike anything I have tasted before. The crispy citrus crab cakes are a definite highlight, sensational in fact, as is the pleasantly tangy green chili and wasabi mayo for dipping them in. Our mains include a generous Bintang Marinated Fillet of Beef, drizzled in cabernet jus and served on a stack of juicy slow roasted tomatoes and sautéed potatoes. There is also a very good Roasted Grouper with a delightfully tangy mustard and citrus crust, potato and spring onion rostie and a lovely cauliflower cream purée. Vegetarians are also treated to a Vegetable Stack, a hearty combination of tasty grilled vegetables, haloumi and feta. We finish with the Tasting for Two a scintillating selection of desserts including moist chocolate pudding smothered in rich chocolate sauce, a tropical coconut crème brûlée, chocolate mousse topped with strawberries, chocolate shavings, and some excellent macadamia apple spring rolls dusted in cinnamon sugar and teamed with strawberry compote and vanilla ice cream. As you would expect in such a fabulously bejeweled setting there is plenty of Champagne on offer too, along with well-priced wines and cocktails. The shiny baby grand piano is put to good use with a resident pianist playing most evenings, often joined by some of the island’s best known musicians. Those who love nothing more than a traditional English High Tea will also be well satiated, with scones, Devonshire clotted cream team and roast beef and horseradish sandwiches. Alison

Jemme I Jl Petitenget 28, Seminyak I P +62 361 4732 392 I Open 11am-11pm I

44 let’s eat!

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let’s eat! 45


street food

Jinggo Babi Kecap I like to wander around Denpasar in search of local-style comfort food, something to satisfy my craving for home cooking without having to trouble myself in the kitchen.

Most local dishes are quite a heavy meal so are best to

Jinggo Babi Kecap breaks all the rules by serving their

savour for lunch. Today, as I drive around, my choice falls

customers daily from 11am – 11pm and by offering a

to Jinggo Babi Kecap on Kapten Agung Street, a small

different take on Nasi Jinggo, by making it bigger and

restaurant which opened two years ago. Generally Nasi

including more condiments. A portion of Nasi Jinggo

Jinggo is a kind of a grab and go meal – a small package

Babi Kecap Special includes a moderate serve of

with a little portion of warm rice and a pinch of several

warm rice, a small amount of sweet fried noodles, fried

types of cooking, such as pulled chicken, fried noodles,

shredded coconut, pork satay, babi kecap, tum babi – a

fried peanut, sauté veggies and saur (fried shredded

steamed pork dish, deep fried sweet tempe and half

coconut,) which is usually only found at night.

boiled egg. It is all served in a local, hand-made woven

46 let’s eat!

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plate covered with brown paper. All of the cooking offers

materials for the interior and a small garden adjoining

sweet and savoury flavour and if the customer seeks a

the parking space. A semi outdoor space provides every

hot fiery taste, a small portion of super hot sambal –

seat with enough breeze and sunshine.

homemade chilli sauce can be added to the plate. Beside the Jinggo Babi Kecap, there is also pork noodle Not only changing the portion and the “old skool”

soup on the menu, a clear soup with a big chunk of pork

packaging concept of Nasi Jinggo, they also offer a

in a bowl, garnished with slices of leek. It is flavoursome

comfortable space to dine. The premises consist of a mix

and perfect to be savoured on a breezy evening.Dewi

of container and concrete construction with reclaimed Jinggo Babi Kecap I Jl. Kapten Agung No. 3, Denpasar I P +62 361 3333 3333

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let’s eat! 47


traditional recipe

b Babi Kecap b Balinese cuisine is not all about babi guling – suckling pig, or ayam betutu – authentic fiery hot chicken. The Balinese consider those foods with lots of complexity in seasoning and preparation as special dishes for special occasion. Meanwhile home cooking is simpler both in ingredients and cooking techniques. When it comes to comfort food, Babi Kecap, a sweet and spicy pork dish is a much-loved favourite with the Balinese. The main ingredients are pork belly and pork knuckle. Both parts of the pig are braised until tender or cooked in a slow cooking pot, so the seasoning permeates each layer of the pork. Another ingredient that play an important role is the sweet soya sauce, which is locally called kecap. This black thick sauce contributes sweet flavour to the dish. Smokey hot babi kecap is best served with warm rice.

Ingredients: 150g pork knuckle

3 cm ginger, sliced

150g pork belly

½ tsp white pepper powder

2 chilli, thinly sliced

1 tsp salt

2 cayenne peppers

¼ sugar

4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced

5 tbsp sweet soya sauce

3 shallots, thinly sliced

½ cup of water

Method: Simmer the pork knuckle and pork belly until the fat is released and they are half cooked, drain the water and leave to rest. Cut the pork belly and pork knuckle into small pieces. Heat a pan and pour in 2-tablespoon coconut oil into the hot pan, add the garlic, shallot and ginger and sauté until fragrant. Put the pork belly and pork knuckle into the pan and stir the mixture until the seasoning covers all the pork. Add the sweet soya sauce, salt, sugar, white pepper powder, cayenne pepper, chilli, and water. Reduce the heat and let it braise slowly until the pork is tender. 48 let’s eat!

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the specialist

I Made Putra

Christopher Smith

Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Leading the formidable culinary team at The Laguna

Joining The Stones as part of its pre-opening team

for the last 19 years, Chef Putra is renowned for taking

three years ago, Smith is no stranger to the Marriott

protégé under his experienced wings. Starting his

experience. His extensive knowledge carried him to

career as a cook in Batam 28 years ago, this Denpasar-

JW Marriott Hong Kong and Singapore Marriott Hotel

born chef has been travelling and working ever since.

before finally landing in Bali. The Queensland native

Apart from managing three restaurants, in-room

is known for constantly coming up with a creative

dining and banquet meeting facilities at The Laguna

dining approach as evident in the three restaurants at

Bali; Putra was the first local President of Bali Culinary

the hotel. “I have a great team here. I believe a happy

Professionals Association as well as being Indonesia’s

cook makes the best food and with all the pressure

representative member at the elite World Association

in the kitchen, it is important to keep your cool to be

of Chefs Societies (WACS ). “I am determined to

successful,” states the beach-loving chef.

promote Indonesian cuisine to the world while coaching young chefs,” states Putra excitedly. The Laguna, A Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N2 Nusa Dua P +62 361 771 327

50 let’s eat!

The Stones Legian Bali A Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta Legian P +62 361 3005 888

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ialists Battle ! Spec Two inspiring chefs share their stories as well as their views on preparing classic cuisine. Meet Executive Chef I Made Putra and Executive Chef Christopher Smith.

Q: What are your other passions aside from cooking? Q: How did you discover your passion for cooking?

Chef Made: Travelling and eating at various street stalls in Indonesia. I believe for Indonesian cuisine, authenticity can only be found on the street!

Chef Made: Initially I wanted to be a doctor but I didn’t

Chef Christopher: I love to relax at home or at the

make the cut so I went to the tourism college. At first,

beach and play my acoustic guitar. Also, in the past year

I didn’t like it, but then I got to experience so much

I have found a passion for fitness.

interesting food and culture. It gaves me the chance to people happy.

Q: How do you define a classic dish. What would be a classic dish for you?

Chef Christopher: I have an unusual history because

Chef Made: To me, classic means authenticity. A certain

my Mom did not like to cook. So I skipped the, “I always

loyalty to the original recipe and honouring it rightfully

want to be chef since I was a kid”, because frankly, I did

with good presentation; and when you want to elevate

not. Then, I moved out of home with my friends at 17

it, by all means, do it , but do it correctly

travel as well as to create food that can make

and lived in a new city where I simply needed a job and the kitchen was where I found it. From then I realised how much I love creating food to make people rub their belly.

Q: What was your most memorable dining experience? Chef Made: Daejeon, South Korea. I forgot the name but it was a teppanyaki restaurant where the chef cooked especially for each guest. The flavour was perfect and the way he cooked and served the food was very special and delicate. Chef Christopher: I have to say Ryan Clift’s creation at The Tippling Club in Singapore was probably the meal that stands out the most to me so far.

Chef Christopher: A classic dish is a dish that has been perfected and people know what to expect, if a classic dish is stated in a menu it should be prepared and served as it was intended. Classics are comfort food for most people so if a chef is to go creative with it, the menu should say something like “our way.”

Q: What should we try if we come to your restaurant to eat? Text by Eve Chef Made: We have had rave reviews for our American Short Rib Rendang Padang and Lobster Termidore at Arwana Restaurant. Chef Christopher: You should definitely try our Stockyard Rib Eye Steak at Big Fish Bar & Grill. For Indonesian cuisine experience, go to The Long Rice Table and try our Indonesian Rijstaffel set.


the insider

LOMAS GRATION

Renowned as a gracious host, Lomas Gration, GM of Republik 45, is a familiar face on Bali’s dining scene. We coax him to share the story on the conception of Republik 45, and his ideas on where Bali will be in ten years time.

52 let’s eat!


Please tell us about yourself and your hospitality experience.

it was time to explore further. I was

I was born in the UK, raised in Spain

space, so together we managed to

lucky enough to meet some very interesting people at the start of

and have spent the last 20 years travelling and working around the globe. My parents were both in the industry so I started with the basics as a wee nipper, collecting glasses, washing pots, helping out in the kitchen and what not. Once I was old enough I jumped behind the bar and never looked back. By the time I was in mid 20’s I was working with international hotels and moving from contract to contract and country to country. I definitely had a lot of fun and saw a huge range of styles and influences. Over the last few years I have focused on developing projects

this project, they had an idea and a create Republik 45. It was the first time I had really seen the depth and variety of Indonesian food and I have to admit I fell in love with its variety and heritage. So, the concept was born. At Republik, we are able to take the essence and purity of such a wide range of Indonesian styles, so being spoilt for choice is one of the benefits of eating here. The team and content is 100% Indonesian, I just apply international standards, a touch of wisdom and a splash of gourmet flair. It really is Indonesian food the Indonesian way.

from a more personal perspective, so building, growing and shaping businesses that excite me, such as Republik 45.

We’ve been waiting for something like Republik 45 in Bali and now, here it is! Why now and not before? Here in Bali I frequently found myself out of the loop as it were. Indonesian food is so abundant yet so limited through our own eyes and preferences.

Sure we all snack on

the odd item that wins our hearts at the local warung. But nine times out of ten, we won’t try anything else. I myself was guilty of this and after eight years of being based here,

How do you see Bali in the next ten years, food and hospitality-wise? Honestly, I see it as a very mixed bag. There will always be international corporations,

urban

expansions

and the next big thing. Investors and money-makers will always have a place in Bali, but I think the real progression will come from smaller, more boutique-style operations. Bali is becoming a foodie Mecca, and there are so many types of people eating, drinking and revelling in Bali’s vibrant food and beverage industry. I would like to see a lean towards more independent, lifestyle driven venues. Places that commit to a higher standard with a smaller output. I think we would all benefit from finding one off places that we truly love to be in.

Indonesian cuisine is one of the most underrated regional cuisines. How can we expose flavoursome Indonesian cuisine to a wider audience?

What is your favourite Indonesian dish and why?

As with many cultures, food is all

Tempe Mangga is so well balanced

important: a function, a display, a bonding moment, a daily task giving more than just nutrition or a full stomach. How to export that? Global recognition is really down to marketing and expansion. But the question there remains how to export

If I’m feeling my age, weight and lifestyle, I will go for a salad. The and is a proper meal in itself (young mango, shredded chicken, sweet cured tempe and leafy greens). If its comfort I’m looking for then I will go straight to a hearty portion of Lontong Sayur – creamy coconut and chili broth with seared vegetables,

a product so dependent on its origins,

rice cakes, egg and melinjo crackers.

ingredients and methodology? It’s a

Text by Eve

tough one. For now I will put myself in the consumer’s shoes and build the experience around that. Wherever that may be.

Republik 45 I Jl Raya Kerobokan #86A I +62 8191 674 1844

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let’s eat! 53


special section

The Big(ger) Feast

54 let’s eat!


A

nother year, another big feast, and what a feast

roasted coffee from Nebula filled the air as baristas

it was with three sunny days at Beachwalk Bali

taught a workshop on coffee art. The aroma of sausages

filled with fabulous food, great music, inspiring

sizzling on the grill at the Four Points by Sheraton stall,

cooking demos and creative workshops. We

mingled with the smell of Mongolian barbecue hosted

asked you to come hungry and help celebrate our 6th

by Aston Kuta.

anniversary, and thousands of you did. We can’t wait to do it all again next year!

As for the taste, well, where to start? Perhaps with the generous 2000 Kue Cubit give-aways from Stickee Bali,

More than a feast for the taste buds, it was a true feast

the cake-tasting hosted by Moon’s Pastry, or maybe the

for all the senses. From dazzling bar fire flair shows and

wine tasting at the combi corner by Plaga. Once again

flamboyant cooking demos to live music performances,

Bintang provided Radlers and Camilla Mozzarella set

dj sets and fashion shows. The heady fragrance of fresh

up a heavenly stall full of tasty cheese treats to sample.

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let’s eat! 55


Lamingtons and cake pops came courtesy of Mercure

food was served by Warung Basang, oleh oleh came

Legian, heart-shaped biscuits and cookies were provided

courtesy of Kedai Ceret, and delectable chocolate was

by Daydreamers while Le Meridien served up coffee and

offered by island favourite, POD.

buns. Delicious canapés and cocktails were also served by

Boutique Beach Resort served up Nasi campur – Bali-

the one and only Teatro Gastroteque.

style paired with wine.

Eating competitions were a great laugh, particularly the

Cooking Demonstrations included Junior Master Chef

crab eating competition hosted by Crab Bar – which all

Yosua, whipping up a panna cotta peanut butter, Rumi

got wonderfully messy. Sadly nobody managed to eat all

Takama preparing traditional sushi and Monsieur Spoon

six of their sliders from Butchers Club in the assigned

creating a delectable strawberry fruit tartlet. Yet again

two minutes – so had to be put in teams – what a bunch

Chef Kelana from Oak Restaurant drew a crowd as he

of lightweights! The chicken and sweet potato fries from

made Indonesian-inspired sushi.

Meanwhile Sadara

Hu’u Bali were highly memorable, while Halal Balinese 56 let’s eat!

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First Taste In the lead up to the Big Feast, Let’s eat! hosted a series of exclusive tastings at favoured venues across the island. The stunning Sadara Boutique Beach Resort set on the glistening white sands of Tanjung Benoa kicked off the series of events with an impressive evening of Balinese haute cuisine. Camilla Mozarella hosted a wonderful afternoon of cheese tasting at Buzz Hotel, Kuta – the mascarpone with hints of blueberry served with a variety of fresh fruits was to-die-for. Winehouse invited us to a lovely evening of Plaga Wine accompanied by home made chicken liver mousse, artisanal cheese from BaliAlm and gourmet duck products from Epikure. Lunch at The Butchers Club the following day eased any lingering hangovers, thanks to delectable burgers made with premium dry-aged Australian beef. A fabulous evening at Teatro Gastroteque rounded off the series of events perfectly, with the amazing chef Maxi Millian cooking up a 7-course storm to showcase his new menu. The Valrhona chocolate finale was phenomenal.

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let’s eat! 57


let’s cook

Ice Rujak (Ice Fruit Salad) Anindya Kirana Mantik (Indy), tells us that she loves watching horror movies because they make her heart beat fast. She admits to getting the same feeling when she prepares ice rujak. A popular snack in Indonesia, rujak is like a spicy fruit salad made with shrimp paste and chilli. Indy’s version at her restaurant Warung Basang comes with shaved ice and a little lemon juice, so it’s more like a peppery, sour dessert rather than the more common spicy rujak. Ingredients 50 gr brown sugar 3 cayenne peppers ½ tbsp white sugar ½ tsp salt ½ tsp shrimp paste 25 gr tamarind 1 fresh lime 125 gr Honey Mango Shaved Ice

Anindya Kirana Mantik Warung Basang Jalan Raya Tuban no 58A

58 let’s eat!


2

3

Melt the brown sugar in water so it becomes like a thick soup

Grind cayenne pepper, white sugar, a pinch of salt, shrimp paste and tamarind into a paste

5

6

1

Prepare all ingredients.

4

Mix the paste with melted brown sugar

7

Place shaved ice on top

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Divide the grated mango into a bowl

Peel mango and grate finely

9

8

Spoon the spice paste on top of the shaved ice

Add fresh lemon juice. Enjoy while it's still icy cold!

let’s eat! 59


decadant dessert

When it comes to French pastries the cream puff is about as classic as it gets. Poule de Luxe celebrates the legend in its distinctive store on Jalan Batubelig.

A

bright and cheery space, Poule de Luxe is filled

The transparent kitchen at the front means you can watch

with the wonderful aroma of fresh baking mingled

Mathieu whipping up choux pastry and piping sticky

with hints of chocolate and the sweet fragrance of

glossy mounds onto oven trays. 30 minutes later they

fresh fruit. While many bakeries in Bali do a little bit of

have been transformed, as if by magic into golden puffs,

everything, French couple Mathieu and Violaine, decided

light as air and ready to be filled. A glass deli counter

to do just one thing and do it really well. Cream Puffs

neatly displays 12 versions of cream puffs, plus a weekly

were their choice. “Macarons are over,” says musician

changing special, while Gougeres – cheese puffs can

turned pastry chef, Mathieu, “Cream puffs are all the

also be made to order. Featuring a slight variation on

rage in Paris.” Judging by the number of people who

traditional choux recipes, the puffs have been coated

come into the store during my visit and leave with long

in craquelin before baking, which creates a delicious,

elegant boxes neatly containing a line of freshly baked,

slightly crispy effect. When it comes to fillings, a thick

deliciously-filled puffs, they are also all the rage in Bali.

and buttery cream patisserie is mixed with different

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ingredients to craft the distinctive flavours. Salted

As well as serving coffee and cream puffs, Poule de Luxe

Caramel is the most popular, a sublime concoction

is a concept store. Spread over two floors you will find

that is sweet, sticky and just a little bit salty. The Dark

funky retro sunglasses and swimming costumes, caftans

Chocolate is divine, as only good chocolate can be,

and hipster bags, stylish shoes and gorgeous metallic

while the Raspberry is delightfully tart and tangy and

gold jewelry tattoos. “Everything is in the shop because

the Orange Blossom wonderfully subtle. Customised

we really like it,” says Mathieu. “We like the idea that you

croqueuembouche birthday/wedding cakes also make

know what you're buying so we highlight each of

an inspired choice.

the designers.”

“Macarons are over,” says musician turned pastry chef, Mathieu, “Cream puffs are all the rage in Paris.”

There are also lots of small toys scattered around the store and tables, which I assumed pay heed to the current Instagram phenomenon of photographing food with novelty items. Yet when I mention this to Mathieu he smiles and tells me that they were toys from his own bedroom. He only realised he had tapped into a food photography trend when pictures started popping up all over Instagram. Alison

About The Cream Puff There is something decidedly decadent about cream puffs so it is unsurprising that they were a huge hit with the aristocracy in Victorian England. Legend has it that an Italian chef working for Queen Catherine De Medici created the cream puff, however evidence points to the puff being around for centuries before that – but as a savoury version filled with cheese and herbs. It doesn’t really matter who created them, lets just be glad that someone did. To the French, they resemble cabbage, ‘choux’ and so the dough is known as choux pate, but if a French person uses the endearment, ‘Mon petit chou,’ don’t worry, they are not calling you ‘my little cabbage,’ but rather, ‘my little cream puff.’

Poule de Luxe I 16D Jl. Batubelig Kerobokan I P +62 361 8475 414 I Open 10am-11pm I

20

let’s eat! 61


hungerlust

Land of Night Markets


Indonesian blogger Alland Dharamwan takes us on a tour of Taiwan’s famous street food.

W

hen people ask which country

(‘yeshi’ is Mandarin for ‘night

Peanut Ice Cream Wrap 花生捲冰淇

I dearly miss, I answer Taiwan

market’). Located in the Shilin

淋 (Huashengjuan Bingqilin).

right away; I miss its mouth-

District in Taipei this is the largest

watering street food. I was there last

and the most famous night market

Stinky tofu is very famous among

summer and my nights were literally

in the country. Food stalls start to

Taiwanese, and for them the stinkier

full of night markets. Some people

open soon after the sun sets and the

it is, the more delicious it is. It is not

may not like night markets because

crowds follow before you know it.

a dish to everyone’s taste , but I still

they are always so crowded, but the

The smell of smoked meat starts to

think that it’s worth trying once.

story is different to me. I love the

fill the air. When you’re in Shilin Yeshi

Taiwanese beef noodle soup is also

crowds! I love seeing how nights

or when you visit other night markets

very famous. CNN even published

are so alive in Taiwan. People go to

in Taiwan, these are some foods

a long article about it, stating that a

school and work during the day, and

you need to try: Stinky Tofu 臭豆腐

bowl of beef noodle soup

then they gather at the local night

(Chou Doufu), Mango Shaved Ice 芒

is the way to dive into the real

markets in the evening.

果冰 (Mangguo Ping), Beef Noodle

Taipei experience.

I visited the famous Shilin Yeshi

Soup 牛肉麵 (Niurou Mian) and

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let’s eat! 63


When it comes to sweet stuff,

Peanut ice cream wrap is one of my

Mango shaved ice is definitely my

favorite desserts in Taiwan. I have to

favourite and I ate it everyday. The

admit that I’m a dessertarian! This

Alland Dharmawan is an award-

mangos here are awesome, they

ice cream has the look of a burrito

winning photographer based in

are more red in colour compared to

and can only be found at night

Malang, Indonesia. His photographic

mangoes in Indonesia, and less juicy

markets in Jiufen. The making of it

journey has seen him explore the

than Thailand’s mangoes, but they

is quite a show in itself. The peanut

genres of portrait, landscape, food,

are really sweet and fresh. Mango

ice cream is in frozen block form

macro, and culture photography. He

shaved ice sellers in Taiwan are

where you can see the seller shave

has exhibited both within Indonesia

genius! They are really creative with

it manually. The ice cream is then

and

their combinations and each mango

shaped into small balls and wrapped.

shaved ice I tried was different. My

While visiting the old city of Taiwan,

favorite was at Shilin where I had

this is one sweet treat you definitely

mango shaved ice combined with

don’t want to miss.

overseas.

Follow

him

at

@allanddharmawan

home-made mango syrup, mango ice cream, mango yogurt and slices of fresh mango on top. Heaven! 64 let’s eat!

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let’s eat! 65


food talk

talking in

Classic

tradition heirloom recipe antique classic

tradisi

Eating Out = Makan di Luar pronunciation The rule of thumb is that Indonesian is pronounced as it is written. a

as in ‘part’

c

as in ‘chair’

ē/e

as in ‘get’ or ‘may’

g

as in ‘goal’

i

as in ‘doing’

ua

as in ‘wa’

o

as in ‘dog’

ny

as in ‘canyon’

u

as in ‘you’

warisan

talking food

resēp antik

klasik

food words

I don't eat pork

Saya tidak makan babi

I want to order...

Saya mau pesan...

No sugar, please

Tanpa gula, tolong

Do you open for lunch?

makan siang?

Can I see the menu please?

sugar mince egg tofu beef stock clam herbs mango

66 let’s eat!

mentah

Boleh saya lihat menunya?

I want to make a reservation for dinner Saya mau pesan tempat untuk

raw

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makan malam

I’d like... Saya mau... to eat

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to order

pesan

tasteless hambar

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hot panas

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watery ēncēr

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two slices

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delicious

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five ounces

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that one

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this one

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kaldu sapi rempah

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let’s eat! 67


BALI 68 let’s eat!

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SEMINYAK KUTA

let’s eat! 69


Ubud Sanur 70 let’s eat!

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let’s eat! 71

jimbaran

Nusadua


Directory.

Sanur, Ubud

Alchemy, Ubud

Sakti Dining Room, Fivelements

The Sayan House

A raw food cafe with salad bar, parfait bar and juice bar as well as delicious raw chocolates and desserts.

Set in the tropical forests of Mambal, this fine dining experience goes far beyond healthy vegetarian cuisine, and into the realms of a true epicurean adventure.

A fine contemporary Asian restaurant in the tranquil Sayan region of Ubud with panoramic views of the rainforest and Ayung river.

Jl. Penestanan Klod, Ubud +62 361 971981

Mambal, Abiansemal, Badung P +62 361 469 206

Jalan Raya Sayan No. 70 Ubud P +62 361 4792593

Warung Dayu

Warung Schnitzel

Warung Padi Organic

Nourishing its loyal followers with sublime raw and vegetarian food, this simple café is a new contender that must be reckoned with in Ubud’s green food scene.

Known to serve one of the best versions of this famous Austrian dish on the island.

True to its name, this eatery offers Balinese cuisine with freshly picked ingredients from its own backyard.

Jalan Sugriwa, Padang Tegal, Mekar Sari Ubud I P +62 361 978965.

Jalan Sriwedari No. 2 Ubud P +62 361 970744

Banjar Laplapan, Petulu, Ubud P +62 361 898 7888

Soul in a Bowl

Lilla Pantai

Pica South American Kitchen

A tapas and bar lounge in the heart of Sanur, serving beautiful homemade cooking in a modern mix of Mediterranean and Balinese styles.

A casual and relaxing space serving authentic Indonesia food and western cuisine in a traditional setting overlooking a golden sandy beach in Sanur.

A new, cosy restaurant in Ubud cooking up delicious South American Cuisine.

Jalan Danau Tamblingan No. 180, Sanur P + 62 81 236 319 600

Jalan Duyung, Beach Front, Sanur +62 821 4457 9142

Jalan Dewi Sita Ubud I P +62 361 971 660

72 let’s eat!

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Seminyak, Canggu

Luna Roof Bar

Cafe Cous Cous

Waroeng Tugu

A chill out experience overlooking paddy fields and the Seminyak skyline while sipping signature cocktails and savouring scrumptious bites.

Serving up delightfully fresh and healthy food including Middle Eastern specialties and generous all day breakfasts.

A typical Javanese-style warung located in the hallowed Hotel Tugu. Tasty Indonesian dishes are prepared with traditional wellmade seasonings at a live cooking station.

Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta P +62 361 8947898

Jl. Bumbak | P +62 361 750 998

HABITUAL Quench & Feed

Mozaic Beach Club

Crab Bar

Set in the heart of Umalas and serving wholesome Americana cuisine including tasty brunches and a fabulous array of burgers!

A wonderful place to enjoy signature cocktails and exquisite dishes prepared by Chef James Ephraim and his dynamic team.

Casual and raucous, this restaurant definitely lives up to its cheerful tagline 'Hot Crab, Cold Beer'.

Jl. Umalas 1 No. 12B Kerobokan P +62 361 918 1801

Jalan Pantai Batu Belig, Kerobokan P +62 361 473 5796

Jl. Batu Belig 106 P +62 361 849 9316

Primo Bali

Smokehouse BBQ

The Parlour

An artisan chocolate factory with a mission to make a world a better place through good chocolate.

Treat yourself to a carnivore’s dream with all the trappings! Thursday evenings at Anantara.

Funky retro design meets a tasty menu of eastern and western-style comfort food in the heart of Petitenget.

Jl. Bumbak 130X Banjar Anyar Kelod – Kerobokan P +62 361 743 3853

Wild Orchid Restaurant at Anantara, Seminyak Bali Resort &Spa P +62 361 737 773

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 15XX P +62 361 473 4654

let’s eat! 73


Kuta and North Bali, Nusa Dua

Raku

Fat Chow

Kori Restaurant

An elegant modern Japanese lounge and bar offering a dramatic view of the sea as well as exquisitely crafted dishes and creative cocktails.

Asian street food in a relaxed and casual atmosphere brimming with youthful vivacity.

A cool sanctuary of whirring fans, flourishing gardens and water features where international cuisine is served and the hustle and bustle of Kuta is instantly forgotten.

The Ritz Carlton Bali | Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Lot #3 Sawangan | P +62 361 849 8988.

Jalan Poppies II 7c Kuta P +62 361 735 516

Jalan Poppies Lane 11, Kuta P +62 361 758605

Terra Terrace Restaurant

Brown and Butter

Paon Doeloe at Taman Bhagawan

Terra Terrace serves delightful modern Indonesian cuisine in a casual yet romantic garden setting.

Serves coffee products, cookies, cakes and other baked goods. A convenient place for business meetings or to chill out and relax!

An elegant, cultural restaurant giving fine examples of regional highlights in a beautiful beachfront setting in TanjungBenoa.

Amaterra Villa | BTDC Area Lot Block B, Nusa Dua | P+62 361 776 400

Berry Biz Hotel | Jln. Sunset Road No. 99, Kuta | +62 361 8495222

Taman Bhagawan | Jalan Pratama No. 70 Tanjung Benoa | P +62 361 776555

Cut, Catch, Cucina

Raja’s Balinese Restaurant

Stickee

A bold and beautifully conceived restaurant offering three distinct, highly interactive dining options in an elegant bistro setting.

Raja’s offers a truly royal dining experience with premium ingredients and the bling of gold plated tableware ‘a la kings and queens.’

Stands out for its fresh take on Jakartan street-style snacks and drinks served up in funky surrounds.

Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, Lot N5 Nusa Dua Tourism Complex P +62 361 849 2888

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, Lot North 4 P +62 361 771 210

Jl. Dewi Sri 18C Legian P +62 361 751178

74 let’s eat!

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