Vol-68 Let's eat! April 2015 Issue

APRIL 2015 EDITION 68

ISSN 2085-5907

La Dolce Vita

Island Trailblazers

Il Giardino

Historic Kuta Kori Restaurant & Bar

The Women’s Issue

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let’s eat! 1

Contents

22

38

38

April

Musings

22 Island Trailblazers

The Latest

Spotlight

12-15

34 Historic Kuta

Kori Restaurant and Bar

Local Cuisine 16 Traditions of Java Waroeng Tugu

The Essential

Our Cover Photo by: Heri Obrink Location: Fashion A to Tea at Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort

The Women's Issue

The Main Affair 38 La Dolce Vita

Il Giardino

20 Breakfast Smoothie

The Insider

Asian Cuisine

42 Dr. Ir. Ni Luh Kartini, M.S

Founder of Bali Organic

Association (BOA)

26 Crispy Delight

Warung Schnitzel

Must Try

Street Food

30 The Simple Life

Dayu's Warung

46 Nasi Jinggo

Traditional Recipe 48 Bubur Barak

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a sophisticated dining experience

Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com www.thegangsa.com

www.kayumanis.com

34

52

54 58

The Specialists 50 Katarina Sari

Pastry Chef at Grand Nikko Bali

Frelly Masinambow

Pastry Chef at Courtyard by

Marriott Seminyak

Recipe 52 Chocolate Brownies

Let's Sip 54 Street Style!

Stickee

Soul Food 58 Food for Transformation

Alchemy

Hungerlust 62 Belitung Magic

Regulars

26

66 Food Talk 67 Map & Directory

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Khrisna Building, Jl Raya Kuta 88R Kuta, Bali P +62 361 766 880 F +62 361 766 810

www.thebaliconcierge.com Hotline +62 361 714 1199 Bali Concierge

Bali_Concierge

The Bali Concierge, Airport CIP Lounge Jl. VIP 2 Airport Ngurah Rai, Bali

editor’s note As a kid we all had various kinds of first experiences that built our passion for certain things in life. Either it was the first time riding a bicycle, having a bunny as pet, baking a chocolate cake or serving a peanut butter sandwich. I remember my first experience in the kitchen when I became my Mom’s assistant making chicken teriyaki. It was quite exciting! I really admired the way she patiently guided me and gave me chance even though it was simple tasks like preparing the margarine, adding the flour, or maybe glazing the chicken fillet with soy sauce and sesame. I felt that my role was very important, as if I was the Sous Chef of the kitchen while my mom was the Chef De Cuisine. Now I realise that thanks to Mom, being in the kitchen is always a fun place for me to be. However the kitchen nowadays no longer only symbolises the domestic scene but has becoming a prestigious profession dominated by male chefs. It takes strong dedication and commitment to be successful and acknowledged as a women chef. In this edition we would like to salute these inspiring women who have turned their passion to the culinary arts, both as chefs and restaurateurs. They are the new Kartini, a woman emancipation figure in Indonesia, who is celebrated each April on Kartini Day. When we went looking for women in the industry to write about we were pleasantly surprised to find more than we were expecting, and each of the women featured in our article on Island Trailblazers (p. 22) is, in her own way making a difference on the island. Some employ local women and preserve island traditions, some are trend setters, others train in recycling and organic farming or make the conscious link between food and healing. All our restaurants featured this month have a woman chef or owner, starting with the wonderfully romantic il Giardino, an Italian restaurant set in the heart of Ubud and infused with the magic of Bali (p.38). Also in Ubud, we taste what must be the best chicken schnitzel on the island (p.26), meet the lovely Dayu at Dayu's warung (p.30) and get healthy at Alchemy (p.58) for our soul food section. Back in Kuta we soak up the serenity of longstanding Kori Restaurant, Bar & Catering (p.34), then embrace the Instagram craze with a fun afternoon eating cakes and drinking frappes at Stickee Cafe Bali (p.54.)

Again, thanks to the wonderful women who inspired us to become who we are today! Selamat Hari Raya Kartini

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your culinary guide

Senior Advisor A.A. Ngr. Mahendra Editor-in-Chief Managing Director

Ayu Sawitri Hapsari Patricia TA Bid Business Development Alison Elisabeth Bone Managing Editor Via Wijaya Writers Menur Astuti Eve Tedja Kartika Dewi Suardana Graphic Designer Tri Angendari Director of Photography Heri Obrink Account Director Nidya Gustianingsih Account Executive Mitra Adi Rachman (accexecutive@visiworld.asia) Distribution & Circulation AA. Mayun, I Nyoman Supartika, Made Adnyana Cultural Advisor Kadek Wahyudita ‘Penggak’ OFFICE Khrisna Building II, 2nd Floor, Jalan Raya Kuta 88R, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia P+62 361 961 0066 F+62 361 762 241 contact@letseatmag.com www.letseatmag.com I www.visiworld.asia letseatmag

A well seasoned travel writer, Alison explored the world before arriving in Bali, where she quickly succumbed to the island’s exotic charms.

Trading nomadic journeys for adventures of a culinary kind, she happily spends her time writing about restaurants and working on her first novel. alison.e.bone@gmail.com

Menur shares her time between Manado and Bali and admits she still hasn’t had the guts to try Manadonese Paniki – a dish made from bats, but she promises to write about it when she has.

When in Bali, she loves trying new restaurants with friends, and particularly enjoys Vietnamese and Indian food, Connect with her @menurastuti

@letseatmag

Eve’s family motto has always been ‘live to eat rather than eat to live.’ Aside from eating, she also loves to write, travel, design and cook (although, admittedly that also involves eating.)

Occasionally, you can find her bragging about where she eats and travels in her tweets @evetedja

Dewi has been working as an independent writer since 2005, and her book ‘Dances of Bali’ has sold more than 2000 copies. Aside from writing she is also passionate about diving, photography and actively volunteers for several non-profit organisations that are engaged in conservation work.

Let’s Eat! Magazine is published monthly under the direction of PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by the editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Let’s Eat! are reserved by PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Let’s Eat! is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2013 Let’s Eat! ISSN 2085-5907 A Member of

www.kg.co.id

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BALI

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the latest

A New Beginning The serene hideway, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay is proud to announce Pasquo King as its new Executive Chef. He will be in charge of all culinary aspects at the hotel’s celebrated venues which includes Sundara, Taman Wantilan and Pool Terrace Cafe. With his 17 years of experience in some of the world’s best hotels, the Australian native will surely lead the culinary team into a golden era.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay P +62 361 701 010

Moonlite in Seminyak The rooftop of Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa has always been the place to be, with its superb sunset view and sophisticated ambience.

Recently relaunched and renamed as Moonlite Kitchen & Bar, the rooftop culinary experience of Bali has reached new heights. Offering contemporary Asian cuisine and seductive cocktails, it is definitely going to be a wonderful place to watch the moonlight.

Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa Jalan Abimanyu (Dhyana Pura) Seminyak P +62 361 737 773

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Celebration Night Avilla Hospitality recently held their first historic gathering at Puri Taman Sari Mengwi, Tabanan, an appreciation event for its business units’ leaders. The Balinese-themed event was also filled with announcements for best achievements as well as award-giving for fun categories like Best Groufie Challenge. Established in 2010, the hospitality management company is now managing 12 brands with its own distinctive concept and style. www.avillahospitality.com

A Cut above the Rest Serving authentic Indonesian cuisine in a serene complex made of bamboo huts and vast fish ponds, it comes as no surprise that Bale Udang was recently certified by Bali Best Brand Awards and Bali International Customer Satisfaction Awards as one of the nominees for Top Ten Best Indonesian Restaurants. Its accessibility, consistent food quality as well as good service marks Bale Udang as a slice of the best from Indonesia.

Bale Udang Jalan Nakula 88 Sunset Road Kuta I P +62 361 8822 000

Passion, Love & Life Proving once again that Taman Bhagawan is one of the best venues to host a jazz performance, a concert featuring world’s best jazz artists Dwiki Dharmawan, Jimmy Haslip, Chad Wackerman and Tohpati was staged. As the final destination of a tour promoting Dwiki Dharmawan’s latest album titled “Passion, Love & Life”, it was also a concert to mark “Road to Jazz Market by the Sea 2015”. The three day festival will be held on 14-16 August 2015 at Taman Bhagawan.

Taman Bhagawan Bali Jalan Pratama No. 70 Nusa Dua I P +62 361 776 555

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Nasi Ayam Kedewatan As one of Bali’s most popular dish, Nasi Campur Ayam Kedewatan is definitely a must try for all visitors. Originally from Kedewatan village in Ubud, the dish consists of white rice with ayam betutu (chicken cooked in Balinese herbs) and condiments such as vegetables, fried peanuts, satay lilit and chilli paste or sambal. This staple dish is now available in HARRIS Cafe at HARRIS Hotel Raya Kuta Bali.

HARRIS Hotel Raya Kuta Bali Jalan Raya Kuta No. 83E Kuta I P +62 361 8482166

Italian Feast Last month saw a string of fine events at Bella Cucina Restaurant of InterContinental Bali Resort, including gourmet cooking classes, gastronomic dinners and wine seminars.

The Michelin star celebrated Italian chef, Fabio Ciervo managed to wow guests with his culinary creations, cooking techniques, and knowledge-sharing in his classes.

InterContinental Bali Resort Jalan Uluwatu 45 Jimbaran I P +62 361 701888

The Chosen One As one of the most popular family holiday resorts in Kuta, Bali Dynasty Resort is no stranger to receiving hospitality awards. It’s most recent, a winner in the “Indonesia Top 25 Best Hotels for Families in Asia and Indonesia” category comes from TripAdvisor in its 2015 Travellers Choice awards. The annual awards honour the world’s best hotels, based on millions of reviews and opinions from travellers from around the world.

Bali Dynasty Resort Jalan Kartika Plaza Kuta I P +62 361 752403

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Bright

Bold

Having successfully won the ‘it’ crowd of Bali since its opening on February 2014, Sisterfields is a boutique cafe like no other. Headed by Kiwi-born Chef Jethro Vincent and his team, the cafe is known for its modern take on contemporary Australian menu. Suitable for any time of the day, be it a lazy breakfast or quick lunch, the bright, playful and chic décor is a clear crowd pleaser.

Sisterfields Jalan Kayu Cendana No. 7 Seminyak P +62 361 905 0507

Butchering the Burger The legendary burger from Hong Kong is now in Bali! The Butchers Club is renowned for its Black Angus, dry aged beef, nose-to-tail butchery technique. Apart from the classic Butchers Club Original Burger, the Bali restaurant is also offering Wu Tang and Double Happiness Burger as well as the Balinese exclusive barramundi fish burger, Ahab Burger.

The Butchers Club Bali Jalan Cendrawasih No. 1 Petitenget P +62 361 8974004

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local cuisine

16 let’s eat!

Traditions of Java Hotel Tugu is a throw back to the old times, with Indonesian traditions depicted in vintage architecture, furniture and majestic statues that date back as early as the sixteenth century.

Arriving in the Hotel Tugu lobby, steps away from the Indian Ocean, we were welcomed by humble staff who escorted us to Waroeng Tugu’s joglo.

It’s a typical Javanese warung set under a redtiled roof, with a wooden display of dried roots, Javanese jamu, spices and fresh ingredients in front of a live cooking station, where cook, Ibu Sulastri, awaited us.

Waroeng Tugu is a traditional corner of Hotel Tugu that caters to guests who can join cooking lessons – a genuine experience of cooking Balinese or Javanese food, with an optional market tour in the morning. “The guests enjoy cooking lessons at Waroeng Tugu because in the end they eat what they cook,” explains Ibu Sulastri who was dressed in red kebaya and head wrap ‘a la Javanese warung lady.’ She has been working for Hotel Tugu since 1991, which says a lot about her kitchen experience. If you don’t have time for the cooking lesson but would like to taste Ibu Sulastri’s home cooking, you can also book a set menu lunch or dinner.

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Expect to have friendly chat with Ibu Sulastri and watch her cooking your meal. The smell of Tempe and Tahu Goreng teased my appetite. With the Javanese Gamelan playing in the background, Ibu Sulastri gradually finished another dish, Oseng Oseng Terong Ongklok, stir fried baby eggplants that blend well with all the caramelised spices and make perfect company with warm white rice. This item is a favourite of former president Megawati, Indonesia’s first female president, whenever she comes to Waroeng Tugu.

Our lunch was served On a wooden boat covered with banana leaves, with a choice of rice – white Nasi Putih and yellow Nasi Kuning. One by one each dish was served on the wooden platter as soon as she finished cooking. The Sambal Goreng Udang & Kentang or shrimp and potatoes was slow cooked in six Javanese spices. There was also Ayam Panggang Bumbu Terik (grilled chicken) and three dishes steamed in banana leaves, Botok Tahu

Tempe, Botok Telur Puyuh Ayam Cacah, made of quail eggs and shredded chicken and Pepes Ikan (fish). For drinks we chose Ice Lemongrass and traditional Es Kolak which reminded me of my mother’s version of banana and pumpkin in coconut milk and sugar. We continued chatting with Ibu Sulastri who informed us that guests can also book to experience how to make the Javanese herbal drink, Jamu.

We finished our traditional warung lunch with a cold and fresh Ginger Basil Margarita and Mekwei Mocktail. Menur

Waroeng Tugu I Hotel Tugu Bali, Jalan Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu I P +62 361 4731 701

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6 - 20 I Open 12pm-10pm (by reservation only)

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Celebrate life in style Jl. Ungasan Raya, Ungasan Bali Indonesia 80364 www.mahaungasan.com

the essentials

Breakfast Smoothie

1 large frozen banana, broken into pieces

1/2 cup cucumber, peeled and sliced

1 1/2 cup almond milk (or other non dairy alternative)

3/4 cup frozen strawberries

1 1/2 cups kale, loosely packed, stems removed

Mix all of the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

BENEFITs: Improves complexion and rejuvenates skin Keeps skin young and radiant Smoother, better-hydrated skin

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musings

Island Trailblazers The Women’s Issue

Each April, Hari Raya Kartini (Kartini Day) is celebrated across Indonesia in honour of Raden Ajeng Kartini, one of the country's national heroes and a pioneer in the emancipation of Indonesian women. Her moving letters, written in Dutch, were published in the tome, Door duisternis tot licht ("Through Darkness into Light") and created support for the Kartini Foundation, which opened the first girls' school in Java in 1916. In her memory we dedicate this issue of Let’s eat! to inspirational women chefs and restaurateurs in Bali.

Text by Alison

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My mother, grandmother and great grandmother inspired my passion for life, cooking and good food.

Born into a family of foodies in Perth, Kali Sari arrived in Bali in the 80’s, where she mixed it up as a DJ at famed Club Double 6 and later went on to helm its Italian restaurant. Happy childhood memories include wonderful afternoons with four generations of women gathered under a shady tree in the garden, listening to her Italian great grandmother share stories of the old world. Kali is also the founder of Saraswati Papers, which creates beautiful and unique Kali Sari Il Giardino, Three Monkeys, Saraswati Papers.

recycled paper products. “More than than just hand crafted paper, Saraswati is about empowerment of Balinese women,” she says. “Many of the women were previously unskilled and unemployed and have now learned a craft, and also the value of recycling. In turn they act as educators in their families and villages."

Life was hard, but it brought me to succeed today.

The recipient of a number of awards from both the Indonesian and the Balinese Governments for women’s development, Ibu Made Jati has come a long way from a childhood spent in the fishing village of Kuta in the 60’s. The second eldest of 11 children, Made grew up helping her mum in the daily struggle to feed the family, and cites her mother as her biggest inspiration on the journey to becoming a successful business woman.

Between Kori restaurant and Uluwatu Handmade Balinese Lace, Ibu Made now employs more than 500 women, each of whom she cares for deeply.

“Bali is my life. Happiness is my family. These are not staff, it's not a business, it's a home."

Ni Made Jati Kori Restaurant Bar & Catering, Uluwatu Handmade Balinese Lace.

Using local produce helps the local industry, gives local farmers stable incomes and inspires them to learn more about farming.

A dedicated locavore, Mara Dowling was raised in a farming family and grew up experiencing the beauty of “Picking your own fresh produce.” She also firmly believes that “Using local produce enables local businesses like myself be able to cook and serve our customers with good fresh quality food and good value. Dedicated to a zero waste policy she adds, “Its very important to teach all my staff about recycling and no waste practice and for Mara Dowling Warung Schnitzel

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them to learn a little every day so they will be able to practice it in their own home.”

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I never wanted to do ‘nothing special.’ Cooking comes from the heart, it’s intuitive, something you feel on the inside.

With six years at the stunning Maya Ubud resort, Kath Townsend is at the forefront of the industry. Born into a family of hoteliers in Australia she claims, “I didn’t realise what loving a job was until I started work in the kitchen.”

Admittedly her first week on the job – spent in the corner of a hot kitchen peeling onions by the sackful – was pretty tough, but through watery eyes she watched her surroundings, fascinated by the rising bread, the artistry of the chefs and the precision of their service. Kath went on to work at some of Kath Townsend Executive Chef and F&B Director Maya Ubud Resort and Maya Sanur.

Sydney’s most famous restaurants as well as world class resorts across Asia and the Maldives. One of her favourite projects at Maya Ubud has been the development of an organic vegetable garden where she sources fresh produce for her inspirational menu of ‘Conscious Cuisine’ in collaboration with the renowned Maya Spa. “The Spa provides special treatment on the outside while the River Cafe provides special treatment on the inside.”

Bringing the element of health into the equation is so much more satisfying.

With a grandmother working as chef to the Swedish king, it’s safe to say that the art of cooking ran in the family, and Shanti found herself experimenting in the kitchen from an early age. Years later, classically trained as a chef herself, she read that the cooking process destroys precious nutrients, and felt herself torn. Cooking was her passion! But so was healthy food, and as she delved into the world of raw food she discovered that she could make almost anything she wanted – all she needed was to unleash her imagination and get seriously creative. The opening of Alchemy three years ago heralded the arrival of the raw food café revolution in Ubud, with Shanti collaborating with Russian chef, Lesya to constantly push the boundaries of what can be achieved without cooking. “I feel blessed” she says, I never experienced

Shanti Allen Alchemy

working with true passion before I started Alchemy.”

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Being a chef doesn’t come easy! As the inspirational quote says, “Every great milestone starts from a single step.

Eni Susanto and Rahma Febiyusi are the founders of Stickee Bali which gives a modern face to traditional Indonesian street food, while firmly embracing the Instagram phenomenon thanks to a fun and vibrant setting that screams SELFIE! Growing up in Bandung, Rahma claims the wide variety of street food and diversity of spices inspired her to become a great chef. “Apart from the delicious taste, Indonesian street food is a form of Indonesian diversity in culture and Rahma Febiyusi Stickee Café Bali

generation, “she says. On why there are so few women in commercial kitchens in Bali? Rahma answers, “I always believe in equality so that’s something I am wondering about too…

My greatest inspiration was my grandmother who introduced me to the passion of cooking when I was just four years old!

"Indonesia is a blessed country rich in history, arts, cultures and traditions.

And I think it’s diverse cuisine is a celebration of this wealth.”

Ibu Sulastri Chef Waroeng Tugu

Good food means good life. Healthy food means a healthy life.

Concerned that her young daughter was unable to walk, Balinese-born Dayu embarked on a healing journey, learning about the importance of food to nourish the mind body and soul, and in so doing also learned to manage her own diabetes. What started as a hobby has become a life passion and led her from Gaia Holistic Retreat to Clear Café and on to her own organic cafe in Ubud. A popular place, it is always full, yet Dayu still finds time to teach cooks at private villas, sharing her knowledge and wisdom. “My daughter is Dayu Mahadewi

my inspiration,” she says.

Dayu's Warung

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the newest

Crispy Delight

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Located at the entrance of Ubud’s upcoming foodie street, Jalan Sri Wedari, Warung Schnitzel looks colourfully bohemian. A far cry from what one has in mind for a schnitzel restaurant, it is regardless known to serve one of the best versions of the famous Austrian dish on the island.

Ushering us to the second floor, the owner and the

Carefully born from passion, and years of being a food

force of nature behind Warung Schnitzel, Mara Dowling,

operator for the hospitality industry, the restaurant is

gives us one of the best tables in the restaurant where

immaculately clean and cosy. My soothing Fresh Ginger

you get to see family temples and the cheerful blue sky.

and Mint is a welcome opening to this much anticipated

Opened two years ago, Warung Schnitzel has gathered

lunch. A large portion of delectable Grilled Tapas comes

avid fans with its simple but determined philosophy.

first. It consists of a dizzying array of golden brown onion

“We put the principle of locavore into practice here. I

rings, grilled chicken, mini tuna bites with sesame seeds

believe in offering people hearty and healthy food that

and a side salad. After dipping my chunk of chicken into

they actually love to eat. About 80% of our ingredients

the peanut sauce, I immediately move to dipping my

are locally sourced and there’s no microwave in our

medium rare fresh tuna into its own pool of wasabi soy

kitchen!,” claims Mara, before taking our order to the

sauce. Both are timely cooked and victoriously build our

kitchen.

appetite to welcome the pièce de résistance.

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let’s eat! 27

Passionfruit, Mango & Coconut Pannacotta

Two large breaded fillets of chicken breast are served with faithful companions, salad and mashed potato. Slowly slicing the tender and moist meat, I have my first bite and the impossibly crispy schnitzel crunches in my mouth. Ich liebe dich, indeed! The creamy brown mushroom sauce is made of coconut cream instead of regular cream, creating a very unique flavour that goes well with the fact that we are on a tropical island. Buttering our next bite of the schnitzel with that amazing sauce, we make quite spectacularly inappropriate noises. This dish is worth every claim and rave that people have made on its behalf and the portion is large enough to be shared in two.

With Passionfruit, Mango and Coconut Pannacotta, we end our leisurely lunch. The naughty tropical theme continues with the taste of coconut cream, creating a lighter version of pannacotta. They clearly know what they are doing here. Aside for being a member of Slow Food Bali, the restaurant is also dedicated to minimising their impact on environment through a zero waste policy. Collapsing on our chairs, we sigh with delight, knowing that by choosing this restaurant, we are not only feeding ourselves with good food but also that we do no harm to this island that we love. Eve

Warung Schnitzel I Jalan Sriwedari No. 2 Ubud I P +62 361 970744

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Grilled Tapas

60 I Ubud Map B-4

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CRAZY BBQ AT ROOFTOP

50% OFF

every Monday and Wednesday start 7pm at The Lighthouse 7th floor only on April 2015 Term & Condition: Don’t forget to bring discount voucher Jl. Wanasegara, Kuta-Bali 80361, t : +62-361 - 754 999 f : +62-361-765 506

Info@AstonKuta.com| www.AstonKuta.com

must try

Happy Carrot Cake

Dayu's Tempeh Pumpkin Lasagna

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The Simple Life

Being partly hidden down a small alley doesn’t stop Dayu’s Warung nourishing its loyal followers with sublime raw and vegetarian food, in fact a queue is often found outside at any time of the day. Simple and homey, it is certainly a new contender that must be reckoned with in Ubud’s green food scene.

Keeping it simple is one of the hardest thing to do, as

burger made of soft mashed pumpkin, and tempeh

Dayu Mahadewi of Dayu’s Warung has learned over

as its replacement bread bun. Surrounded by spinach

the last ten years. Studying with some of the world’s

and adorned with mixed salad rolls, it tastes as good

best raw food chefs, Dayu in turn is now teaching

as it looks. The thing about raw food is that it lets

other people about the vivacity and vibrancy of raw

the original taste of the ingredients reign, and the

food. “Dayu’s Warung is a long time dream finally

pumpkin, especially after a little addition of tamarind

coming true. I am creating a family, a home here with

chutney, definitely reigns sublime.

other Balinese women from surrounding villages of Ubud,” says Dayu in her soft spoken way. Indeed, Dayu’s Warung feels like home. One needs to take off one’s sandals before entering the two-storey eatery, where much of the seating is comfortably arranged on the floor and outside on the terrace.

Sipping my complimentary freshly squeezed Kintamani Orange through a reusable metal straw, life tastes as sweet as the honey in my glass. Affordability is definitely a factor of why this simple eatery is swarmed by hordes of Ubudian in the know. But when one started to see the artful plating, the ooh-ing and aah-ing of the other diners who seems to be at ease, one can sense right away that there is another thing than affordability to be enjoyed here. Perhaps it has something to do with Dayu herself, gently checking if everybody is happy and comfortable as well as giving free advice on which dishes go well with one’s certain health problems. Mainly though, I think it is because of Dayu’s Tempeh Pumpkin Lasagna, a carefully stacked

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let’s eat! 31

Cucumber Sushi Slice with Sesame Pate

Cucumber Sushi Slice with Sesame Pate is also a delight, an ode to cucumber with a topping of sesame pate that gives the fresh slice a savoury flavour. A glass of Fresh Blood Cooler later, I feel rejuvenated enough to continue with a slice of Happy Carrot Cake. Topped with fresh slices of strawberry, ginger, mint sauce and almond, the carrot cake is gluten-free and definitely can beat the full-of-gluten version anytime.

Thick, subtly sweet with a hint of cinnamon and spectacularly made without flour, it is just bite after bite of beta karotene goodness. Bliss does come from simple things! Eve

Dayu’s Warung I Jalan Sugriwa, Padang Tegal, Mekar Sari Ubud I P +62 361 978965

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35 I Open 8 am-10 pm I Ubud Map D-4

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Located in the now popular Seminyak beach area, Jl CHam-

plung Tanduk. Situated close to Courtyard Marriott, Breezes resort and the famous Chez Gado Gado.

Eco Bali Spa only offers certified organic products. Eco tan body care and spray tans. Mukti Organic skin care

Jl. Champlung Tanduk 9-10 Seminyak Kuta Badung P: +62 361 736135 | www.ecobalispa.com

spotlight

Historic

Kuta Set in the heart of Kuta, yet a world apart from the neighbouring warungs, backpacker bars and surfer haunts that line Poppies lane II, the award-winning Kori Restaurant and Bar provides a glimpse into the Bali of old.

Mango Cheesecake

A recent visit to Kori proved to be a sentimental trip down memory lane. Not only is it one of the

Udang Goreng Mentega

first restaurants I ever reviewed in Bali, this lovely venue also serves up a unique slice of Kuta history.

Founded by the charismatic Ni Made Jati, Kori is an island institution, with many of the staff, including the manager, and the chef, Bapak I Gusti Nyoman Jaya, working here since the restaurant opened 16 years ago. Regular patrons include many Australians who return every year on their annual holidays, and the live music sessions on Wednesdays and Fridays always draw a crowd.

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Kori means gateway in Balinese and crossing the threshold leads into a cool sanctuary of whirring fans, flourishing gardens and water features, where the hustle and bustle of Kuta is instantly forgotten www.letseatmag.com

let’s eat! 35

Grilled Squid Salad

Pina Colada

Black Rice Pudding Spring Roll

Kori means gateway in Balinese and crossing the

Hanging Seafood Grill as well as plenty of Indonesian

threshold leads into a cool sanctuary of whirring fans,

classics with a slight twist. We start with a Grilled

flourishing gardens and water features, where the

Squid Salad, a generous serve of unbelievably tender

hustle and bustle of Kuta is instantly forgotten. I join Ibu

squid marinated in herbs and garlic and accompanied

Made in a traditional thatched bale in the garden piled

by roasted vegetables, salad and pesto sauce. The

with plump chequered cushions. Gracefully dressed

seafood theme continues with Udang Goreng Mentega

in a kabaya with a perfect white orchid tucked into

– sauteed fresh king prawns in a spicy garlic and oyster

her hair, she greets me with a radiant smile. Sipping a

sauce, followed by a delicious Balinese Sate Lilit served

Pina Colada from a coconut shell, I settle back in the

on a ceramic grill filled with smoking coconut husks.

cushions to chat about the old days.

Skewered on lemongrass stalks, the sate is hot, juicy,

Ibu Made’s childhood was spent on Poppies Lane 1, back in the days when Kuta was a fishing village and dense palm groves swept all the way to the pristine beach. Inspired by her mother who was ever resourceful in her quest to feed her family, Ibu Made, who never went to high school admits that she always wanted to be more than a housewife. By the time she was a teenager she was selling sarongs on the beach and eventually started making her own clothes, creating the

imbued with wonderful flavours and comes as a set with nasi kuning, (rice flavoured with coconut) and sayur urap (vegetables). “If you want good food, you have to create flavour from the spices you ground yourself,” says Ibu Made, a firm traditionalist when it comes to Indonesian cuisine. The Black Rice Pudding Spring Roll offers a unique take on this ubiquitous Balinese dessert, with thick rice pudding wrapped in a crepe and drizzled in vanilla custard and palm sugar syrup.

label Uluwatu Handmade Balinese Lace in the 1970’s.

Evocative photographs of Made selling sarongs on the

These days Uluwatu has 14 outlets on the island.

beach in the 70’s, and modelling the original clothing

Originally a spacious Balinese-style house, Kori was transformed into a restaurant in 1998, offering an international menu with something for everyone. From hot stone cuisine to hamburgers, to the legendary

Kori Restaurant & Bar

36 let’s eat!

line from Uluwatu hang on the wall of the restaurant, portraying a colourful story of this Balinese girl who rose from humble beginnings and went on to be one of the island’s most successful business women. Alison

I Jl Poppies Lane 11, Kuta I P +62 361 758605

150

I Open 11am to 11pm I Kuta Map B-3 www.letseatmag.com

M

eisindo

Food & Beverage Distributor PT. Meisindo Karya Semesta Bali View building, Jl. Nakula 88Z, Legian-Kuta Telp : +02 301 8470007 / +02 301 738172 Fax : +02 301 8470841

the main affair

38 let’s eat!

La Dolce Vita

Hidden away in the enchanted gardens of the Hans Snell Gallery, il Giardino is one of Ubud’s best kept secrets, a traditional Italian restaurant infused with the magic of Bali.

let’s eat! 39

Nestled into the end of a tiny lane just

Fritto Misto di Pesce

Polenta Chips

off Ubud’s high street, il Giardino is a surprise of the most wonderful kind.

The ornamental gardens of the Hans Snell Gallery set an atmospheric scene of mosaic pathways, stone statues and marble tables amidst lotus ponds.

Snell was a famed Dutch artist, and evocative photo portraits of himself and his beautiful Indonesian wife, Siti hang behind the bar.

An amalgam of styles and influences, il Giardino channels the authentic flavour of Italy and places it in a quintessential Balinese setting, including the warmest of welcomes from attentive staff. Founder, Australian-born, Kali Sari, adds plenty of her own artistic flourishes, from Chianti bottles covered in melted candle wax to the vibrant magnolias that adorn the tables. It’s a class act,

40 let’s eat!

with firm attention to detail. Juices are cold pressed, pasta such as the Roasted Pumpkin Ravioli with Burnt Butter, Almonds, Sage are homemade and doused in the finest extra virgin olive oil, wines are carefully chosen, and coffee is accompanied with dainty almond biscotti and sugar cubes housed in customised ceramic pots. Kali grew up with a passion for cooking, food and story telling, and her colourful family history spans continents and cultures. Many of her favourite recipes have been passed

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Linguine Allo Scoglio

Canoli

firm, slightly crispy and has plenty of contrast thanks to slightly sweet pumpkin and yam puree, bitterly crisp radicchio leaves and thin slices of salty prosciutto. Linguine Allo Scoglio sees the freshest seafood tossed with linguine, olive oil, cherry tomatoes, roasted garlic and a smidgeon of saffron. The good, simple flavours continue with the Fritto Misto di Pesce, a generous platter of red snapper, Antipasto Platter

Pan-fried Gnocchi

squid and king prawns accompanied with salsa verde and a mellow mango salsa.

Meanwhile, the Radicchio Salad explodes

down from generation to generation and she is also the co

with tangy freshness thanks to sliced fennel,

founder of much loved Three Monkeys Café in Ubud and Sanur.

red onion, orange segments and a delightful

We visit on a rainy day which merely adds to the enchantment as

citrus dressing. Dessert is classic Canoli filled

we watch the two resident ducks joyfully frolic in the lotus pond.

Kali tells me she always dreamt of opening an Italian restaurant,

with ricotta cream and orange zest while the Fritelli (Italian donuts) dipped in homemade

and as soon as she laid eyes on the property she knew this was

strawberry jam are deliciously naughty.

the right place. The menu is filled with classic Italian fare, much

Opening for sunset cocktails and dinner, il

of it influenced by her great grandmother. Crunchy Polenta

Giardino is a place to linger with its charming

Chips are neatly stacked and served with aioli. The vibrant

old world feel richly imbued with a sense of

Antipasto platter is laden with delicacies, from grilled marinated

history and romance. Fabulous setting aside,

bell peppers to a juicy tomato topped with creamy mozzarella,

the food is some of the finest on the island.

asparagus spears drizzled in olive oil, plump Kalamata olives

Alison

and thick slices of rustic bread. Excellent Pan-fried Gnocchi is

il Giardino I Hans Snell Gallery, Jalan Kajeng, Ubud I P +62 361 974 271 I Open 4pm – 11pm I Ubud Map A-3

let’s eat! 41

the insider

42 let’s eat!

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Dr. Ir. Ni Luh Kartini, M.S Founder of Bali Organic Association (BOA) Born in the North of Bali in 1960, Kartini spent her youth in the green and lush rice fields of Bali when the word ‘organic’ was not just a term but the only way of life. The same Bali is now in a dire condition, exhausted and toxic after 40 years of continuous usage of chemical fertilisers on its land. We had the honour of chatting with this formidable lady on the current condition of the island, the wisdom of worms as well as what we can do to restore the balance.

How is Bali doing now? How does it cope with massive land conversion and rising population?

Let’s talk about organic farming. What has your study in worms got to do with it?

I am afraid that Bali is not doing too well. Our land is

Organic farming was our culture until the Green Revolution

in a bad condition after the onslaught of pesticides,

became mandatory on 1969. I noticed that the so-called

no resting time in between crops, land conversion that

“fertiliser” killed the ducks and worms in our rice fields.

destroys our water irrigation system, the list goes on.

It was a turning point in my life. Since then, I have learnt

We are threatened by a water crisis; three of our lakes

that worms restore fertility to damaged soil. They are the

are polluted while our rivers and ocean are swarmed

sign of a healthy land and that’s why we founded BOA,

with rubbish. We are in an environmental crisis. It deeply

to facilitate the farmers who want to return to our ancient

saddens me that our local wisdom, created by our wise

tradition of farming, as well as assisting them during the

ancestors and embedded in our religion and philosophy

process.

are not strong enough to ward off the destruction that is happening now.

What will happen to Bali when this destruction continues?

What can we do to help our local farmers?

Know where your products come from. Actually Bali is blessed with the perfect soil and climate to grow almost everything. Land conversion must stop if we want to

Bali will not be Bali anymore. Take water, for example. In

survive and the government must stick to the blueprint

2011, Bali’s land surface water is in deficit. One village has

that they have created themselves. Creative programs that

1,000 boreholes. One hotel needs 50,000 litres of clean

benefit farming and the farmers will need to be created,

water every day. We can all do the math. In the future, we

like one hotel adopting one water irrigation channel or

will look back and realise that our biggest mistake was

subak and using its produce.

that we did not take care of our home despite the fact that our livelihood comes from tourism which is intertwined

Text by Eve

with our environment. Once we lost our taksu, that spirit of Bali, it will be hard to recover.

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let’s eat! 43

“A woman is like a tea bag, you can’t tell; how strong she is until you put her in hot water. – Eleanor Roosevelt

street food

Nasi Jinggo In the 80’s Bali’s culinary scene was enriched with the arrival of nasi jinggo. Packed in fresh green banana leaf, nasi jinggo is a kind of grab and go meal. Inside the small package is a little portion of warm rice and a pinch of several types of cooking, such as pulled chicken, fried noodles, fried peanut, sauté vegetables, and fried shredded coconut, generally known in Bali as saur.

http://fatboo.com

Back when it first appeared, nasi jinggo was only to

stool. The main consumers were drivers who delivered

be found in Jalan Gajah Mada in an area nearby the

produce to the market, hawkers of the midnight market,

town’s main market, Pasar Badung. The ‘fast food’

and the night bikers who came from work or the clubs in

packages were nicely arranged in woven baskets that

Kuta.

were attached to a motorbike seat or placed on a plastic

46 let’s eat!

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Some say that the name jinggo comes from a

or supper. A bottle of water was a must bring

Hokkien word jiggo that means one thousand

because nasi jinggo is normally served with super

five hundred. The name of the food parcel was

hot sambal.

connected to the price, which was Rp 1500.

Others say that the name nasi jinggo was strongly connected to the Hollywood movie, Django, as it was mostly savoured by the night riders who came back late from work or even work the night shift, ‘the hero of the family.’

Nowadays, nasi jinggo costs a little more, but the package is a little bigger too, and it can be found almost everywhere in the south of Bali. Now we can also enjoy nasi jinggo with a sweet pork dish, a perfect combination to lessen the effect of the fiery hot sambal, while more side dishes include

By the mid 90’s, nasi jinggo had become very

the addition of boiled egg. These days sellers are

popular. As demand grew, so did the number of

also better equipped, offering spoons and woven

sellers. With nightfall, some nasi jinggo sellers

plates, and often complete the service with some

parked their motor bikes not only nearby the Pasar

beverage options, such as mineral water, coffee

Badung but also in front of Udayana University

and tea. But one thing hasn’t changed, nasi jinggo

in Jalan Sudirman. Students and workers usually

is only available in the night time. Dewi

stopped by to have a quick and cheap dinner

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let’s eat! 47

traditional recipe

b Bubuh Barak b Some ancient traditions are still followed by the Balinese, and food always becomes part of the offerings made in certain rituals. Bubuh barak, which means red porridge, plays an important role in rituals such as holy ceremonies to change names, a baby’s three month celebration, and a woman’s seventh month of pregnancy.

Some traditional rituals in Java also use the same type of red porridge for offerings and as symbol of gratitude to the power that gives life. In Central Java, the red porridge is named bubur sengkolo.

Not only essential for ceremonies, the delicious bubuh barak can be indulged as an alternative meal for breakfast, a dessert or an afternoon snack.

The porridge that is made of rice is sweet with a creamy texture. Served warm or cold, the taste is equally good.

Ingredients: 250gr Rice 1lt Light coconut milk 500ml Thick coconut milk 2 Pandanus leaves 1tsp Salt 200gr Grated palm sugar 200gr Grated coconut

Method: Add rice, light coconut milk, salt and pandanus leaves to a saucepan and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and stir the mixture occasionally until the mixture has thickened.

Put the grated palm sugar into the saucepan and keep on stirring as the sugar melts and blends with the porridge.

Pour the thick coconut milk and stir to mix. Let it simmer for a few minutes and then remove pan from heat.

Serve it warm with grated coconut on top.

48 let’s eat!

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The abundance of Bali’s artistic value, the lavish island’s natural beauty and diversity of culture, become our inspiration in creating meaningful ideas.

: Visi World

www.visiworld.asia

PT. Khrisna Inter Visi Media Jalan Raya Kuta 88R, Kuta Bali - Indonesia 80361 Phone +62 361 755 136. Fax + 62 361 762 241

the specialist

Katarina Sari

Frelly Masinambow

Pastry Chef

Pastry Chef

Starting her career in her family’s restaurant business

Born and raised in the capital city of North Sulawesi,

as soon as she was old enough to hold a whisk, Chef

Frelly Masinambow fell in love at first sight with the

Rina was no stranger to a life in the kitchen. After

presentation of pastry during her tourism college

graduating from Bali’s tourism college, she managed

years. After graduating in 2010, she immediately

her own restaurant for few years before deciding to

trained at Manado’s finest hotels and continuously

pursue a career in the hospitality industry. She joined

honed her skills all the way to Bali. Moving to Bali

Grand Nikko Bali in 1996 and has graced the hotel

in 2012 proved to be a smart career move since she

with her exceptional talent ever since. “I find a home

is now one of the people in charge of the sweets

here with my team, and constantly find myself being

department at the recently opened hotel by Double

inspired to create, have fun and keep pushing the

Six Beach. “I love the fact that through my pastry,

boundaries, “says Chef Rina.

I can make people happy,” says Chef Frelly with a

Grand Nikko Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan P +62 361 773377

radiant smile.

50 let’s eat!

Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak Jalan Camplung Tanduk No. 103 SP Dhyana Pura P +62 361 8499600

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Chefs Battle!

Despite different origins, Pastry Chef Katarina Sari of Grand Nikko Bali and Pastry Chef Frelly Masinambow of Courtyard by Marriott Bali Seminyak share a few ideas in common on women in the industry. Here, they spill their personal stories, and thoughts on why woman makes mean pastry chefs.

Q: Why do you think there are more males in the professional kitchen than females?

Chef Katarina: Actually, the number of professional female chefs is rising steadily. Most of my pastry staff are women. They are a talented and hard working bunch!

Q: Do tell us about your favourite pastry!

Chef Katarina: Croissants and cookies. I’m also partial to chocolate flavour whenever dessert is involved.

Chef Frelly: Klapertaart! It’s both a traditional and an international type of dessert. Partly influenced by the

Chef Frelly: When I started working as a pastry chef back

Dutch, it has shredded coconut meat as well as raisins

home in Manado, my chef doubted me. He thought as

and rum!

a woman, I wouldn’t be strong enough to endure the

Q: Any tips on how to survive the heat of the

work. My goal was to change his mind. By the time I left that property, he only wanted female chefs for the pastry

kitchen?

department! Moral of the story is that gender doesn’t

Chef Katarina: Strong will and mentality. The pressure

matter.

is high in the kitchen. You can count on there always

Q: What kind of qualities are necessary to be a good

being last minute changes, but we always have to cope

pastry chef?

Chef Katarina: Eyes for detail! Pastry is all about focus,

with it and excel!

Chef Frelly: Focus, believe in yourself and have faith.

detail and stable hands.

Q: And your wish for upcoming years would be...

Chef Frelly: You have to be really thorough with your

Chef Katarina: That pastry will be more recognised in

work. All of the items are delicate and easy to break.

our culinary scene. We used to have an active pastry

Q: What style of dessert will we see coming out of your

chef community so I’d love to see it revived.

kitchen this year?

Chef Frelly: Better years ahead, hopefully! I would

Chef Katarina: You will find chocolate experimentation

I can compare notes and be inspired more by pastry

where we incorporate chocolate with dishes from other kitchen departments! It will be pretty wild.

love to get better, learn new things and travel more so and its presentation.

Text by Eve

Chef Frelly: We’ll be doing specialty pralines, infused chocolates as well as healthier alternatives in our desserts.

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let’s eat! 51

let’s cook

Chocolate Brownies The young and talented Chef Winda shares her secret for making magical chocolate brownies that will satisfy the sweetest tooth. Softly textured on the inside and crunchy on the outside thanks to a crushed almond topping, you can make these tasty treats at home, or enjoy them with a smoothly blended coffee at The Coffee Story in Jimbaran.

Ingredients For 24 serves 480 gr dark chocolate 400 gr butter 700 gr sugar 24 eggs 480 gr flour 160 gr milk powder 120 gr cocoa powder 40 gr baking soda 150 gr almond (sliced) 100 gr icing sugar (as the garnish)

Chef Winda Yulinda Dalimunthe The Coffee Story Jimbaran Nirmala Hotel & Resort Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran

52 let’s eat!

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1

Prepare all the ingredients

4

Whisk the flour, baking soda, cocoa powder, milk powder and put all ingredients together into chocolate mix.

2

3

Melt dark chocolate and butter in a hot pan and put aside.

Add the eggs and sugar to the melted chocolate

5

6

Keep stirring all ingredients in a bowl, then set aside to rest for 5 minutes.

7

8

Bake at 185 Celsius degree for 30 minutes.

Remove the brownies from the oven, allow to cool before cutting into slices and serving.

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Grease a tray with butter, pour the mix into the tray and sprinkle with almond topping.

9

Enjoy the sweet temptation

let’s eat! 53

let's sip

Matcha Frappe

54 let’s eat!

Affogato

Kue Cubit Rame - Rame

There have been plenty of attempts to bring humble Indonesian street food to the next level of culinary finesse.

One attempt in particular, Stickee, stands out for its fresh take on Jakartan streetstyle snacks and drinks on bustling Jalan Dewi Sri.

Cireng Rujak

Entering the venue, a gust of delicious aroma from batter being poured onto a hot steel pan welcomes me. Kue Cubit or pinch cake, Jakartan’s beloved street snack has finally arrived in Bali. We immediately order a portion and climb up to the second floor where more seating options are available. A large table with Scandinavian-styled slender chairs near the window becomes our home for the next few hours while we update each other with stories.

Bright, happy and radiating the sense of being at your bestfriend’s house, Stickee operates cleverly during the national snacking time, all the way to dinner time (3-11pm.) The dishes are cheekily named in Indonesian slang while beverages are made of a wide range of nonalcoholic options. Cute wire birds and an assortment of toys are put on the tables, making any shots that you might take with your phone, instantly Instagram-able.

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let’s eat! 55

My Affogato is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a single shot of Arabica house blend espresso. Pouring the espresso and gulping a mouthful of hot and cold as well as sweet and bitter, Stickee manages to create a balanced beverage. Two large wooden trays, laden with golden Kue Cubit Rame-Rame and cheekily named Kue Cubit Macha Cih come next. The former are topped with chocolate bars, cheese, as well as M&M’s, while the later are purely made of green tea and to make it even better, topped with small green tea bars. Complementing the bitter sweet green tea cakes, I order Matcha Frappe and both of them are naturally perfect for each other. Cold, slightly bitter and not too sweet, the frappe definitely pleases my palate.

My friend orders a Red Velvet Frappe. It tastes exactly like the cake, both creamy and milky. Done with the sweet treats, we move to more savoury snacks, Cireng Rujak. Traditionally from the streets of West Java, the savoury fried tapioca fritters are salty, crunchy on the outside and moist in the inside. True to its name, Stickee manages to stick in your mind long after you left the premises. Eve

Stickee I Jalan Dewi Sri 18C Legian

56 let’s eat!

Kue Cubit Macha Cih

I P +62 361 751178 I Opening hours 3pm – 11pm I Kuta Map A-4 www.letseatmag.com

PIS N coffee . eatery . music

Jalan Petitenget 19, Seminyak, Bali +62 81 238 34 986

soul food

Food

for transformation

The first of a number of raw food cafes to spring up around Ubud in recent years, Alchemy has morphed into a buzzing hive of healthy goodness with plenty of exciting developments in the works.

58 let’s eat!

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I have been a huge fan of Alchemy from the moment I first tasted one of their Chewy Chocolate Bar three years ago, and whenever I am in Ubud I make sure to stop by for a chocolate fix. With humble beginnings as a small but vibrant venue serving organic fresh juices, raw chocolates and desserts, the cafe has grown in popularity and accordingly, space, with tables now stretching out to a terrace at the back, and increased shop frontage with even more supplements and organic items for sale. A long healthy salad bar and a tantalising parfait/breakfast bar filled with all kinds of goodies are also great additions.

The cafe is a collaboration of a like-minded group of people who shared a vision and a purity of purpose. We catch up with chef/ co founder, Swedish-born Shanti Allen for lunch. She tells me that in order to ensure the integrity of the food – organic, raw and additive free – almost everything is made from scratch, from homemade coconut cream and yoghurt, to tangy almond feta cheese, raw dairy free mayonnaise and the tasty coconut bacon that turns up in the Alchemy BLT. The salad bar is brimming with raw veggies, organic greens, sprouted seeds, as well as pink shredded jicama beets and slivers of pumpkin and bell peppers marinated for 24 hours in orange juice to ‘cook.’ Homemade corn chips and kale sprinkles made in a dehydrator add crunchy texture and taste, Mixed Salad

while dressings include a zesty lemongrass, which brings my generous bowl of salad alive.

let’s eat! 59

Lemon Coconut Cake

Parfait

The parfait bar is a decadent display with all sorts of

We finish with some of my beloved raw chocolates.

wonderful tropical fruits, as well as chocolate cashews,

The Heart-shaped M!LK are Alchemy’s version of milk

dates, almond goji crumble, berry chia jam and trail

chocolate made with coconut milk and cacao. There

mix. My selection is piled into a tall glass jam jar and

are also Bounty Balls with chocolate sprinkled in

doused in chia pudding made with cashew milk, vanilla

coconut and wrapped around a dense coconut filling,

and stevia then finished with fresh whipped coconut

as well as some spicy Ginger Raisin Crunch.

cream. Its parfait perfection! Even better, its actually good for me. We work through a couple of cold pressed juices packed with vitamins and nutrients, and then head into dessert territory. The Lemon Coconut Cake is rich, tart and utterly moreish while the Black Forest Cake is moist and fluffy with a filling of blended cashews, coconut, cacao, dates, black cherries, palm nectar and a finishing sprinkle of cacao.

Tapas is new on the menu, while a chocolate factory is under construction upstairs, and “The Raw Alchemist” a book presenting the cafe’s top 100 recipes will be out soon. Another exciting development will be a culinary school dedicated to preparation of raw food, which Shanti describes as “Basically a big organic veggie garden with a kitchen in it.” Watch this space!

Alison

Alchemy I Jl. Penestanan Klod, Ubud I +62 361 971981

60 let’s eat!

70 I Open 7am – 9pm I Ubud Map B-1

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hungerlust

http://belitungkita.com

Despite being one of the most beautiful islands in Indonesia, Belitung was relatively unknown until a recent best-seller book and a movie made it more popular than ever before. Aside from brochure-worthy pristine white beaches and blinding turquoise sea, Belitung offers an adventure to the unknown and seafood delicacies that will blow one’s mind away.

62 let’s eat!

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let’s eat! 63

“The saying is wrong. My teeth are perfectly fine,” says Serok, a converted ex-pirate who is now a diving guide and tourist boat captain. There is a saying in Indonesia that people from Belitung have bad teeth because of their bad water quality, as an effect from the tin mining. Serok is taking us to Kepayang Island, a tiny uninhabited island surrounding Belitung. Giant granite rocks that wouldn’t look out of place in a contemporary museum have been lying around for the last thousands of years. The sea is calm and the rich hues of blue are painted all around us in the most vibrant colour palette imaginable. I’ve seen white sanded beach before but rarely as gorgeous as this. With a snorkel and a friendly guide, I spend the day playing mermaid.

After a simple yet tasty lunch of freshly caught grill fish and fried squid, we continue our island hopping to the next island whose popularity is sealed by a more than century old white lighthouse. Standing 60 metres

64 let’s eat!

proud, it was cast in England, shipped to Indonesia and assembled by the Dutch in 1889. Climbing up the stairs rewards me with a stunning panoramic view of the islands and its surrounding granite rocks formation.

Serok promised me a visit to his village tomorrow but tonight he dropped me off at Tanjung Pandan, the main town of Belitung.

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http://bangkatour.com

Using the free night to explore the town, I come

along the bumpy road that takes me from the rustic

across a eatery that is full with locals, always a good

port to Suak Gual village, part of the Selat Nasik sub-

sign that you are in for a treat. The humble eatery

district. I am to stay at Sanusi’s uncle house, a sailor

serves only one menu, Sop Gangan. This staple dish of

who is renting his room to occasional stray guests.

Belitung is made of fish, pineapple and a rich variety of

That night, I eat some of the most exotic seafood

herbs and spices like turmeric, galangal, lemongrass,

that I’ve ever eaten in my life. Large mud crab, freshly

chillies, shallot, shrimp paste, and tamarind. With that

caught snapper, grilled squid and ultimately, a sea

abundance of flavour, it comes as no surprise that the

mushroom given to me a by a diver who harvested it

yellow broth tastes divine.

that evening. And to think that these luxuries are what

Serok picked me up the next day. Two hours later,

they consider as regular meals completely stuns me.

I find myself on a quiet island called Mendanau. A

A group of local kroncong ensemble is performing,

celebration for the sea is currently underway and I am

poetically closing my night with their heart wrenching

invited to join the festivities. A dense mangrove forest

song, making Belitung much harder to forget. Eve

is the first sight that I see from the boat and it goes on

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let’s eat! 65

food talk

talking Food woman

perempuan

recipe

resēp

cook

tukang masak

Eating Out = Makan di Luar pronunciation The rule of thumb is that Indonesian is pronounced as it is written. a

as in ‘part’

c

as in ‘chair’

ē/e

as in ‘get’ or ‘may’

g

as in ‘goal’

i

as in ‘doing’

ua

as in ‘wa’

o

as in ‘dog’

ny

as in ‘canyon’

u

as in ‘you’

talking food

kitchen dapur family

keluarga

food words salt garam pepper lada coconut oil

minyak kelapa

flour

tepung

intestine usus chicken stock

kaldu ayam

eggplant terong potato kentang lime jeruk nipis soursoup sirsak bird's eye chili

cabe rawit

banana leave

daun pisang

I want to sit outside

Saya mau duduk di luar

Do you open for lunch?

Apakah anda buka untuk makan siang?

Do you have a non-smoking area?

Ada tempat bēbas asap rokok?

I am allergic to....

Saya alergi...

Can I cancel the order please?

Boleh saya batalkan pesanannya?

Can I take it home?

Boleh tolong dibungkus?

I’d like...

Saya mau...

to borrow

meminjam

to buy

membeli

to get

mendapat

more

lagi

less

lebih sedikit

half kilogram

setengah kilo

one plate

satu piring

two crates

dua kerat

a dozen

satu lusin

eight pieces

delapan buah

This is...

Ini...

spoiled busuk bitter

pahit

cold dingin too much

terlalu banyak

hot panas

steam kukus grill panggang

66 let’s eat!

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e

n

EAT T

e

s

l

d

-

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o t c e ir

ry

map

and d

let’s eat! 67

BALI 68 let’s eat!

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SEMINYAK KUTA

let’s eat! 69

Ubud Sanur 70 let’s eat!

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let’s eat! 71

jimbaran

Nusadua

Directory.

Sanur, Ubud

Art Kafe

Bamboo Bar & Lounge

D’Star Bar & Resto

Live acoustic music, eclectic art, retro decor and a global menu provide the ingredients for Art Kafe, an atmospheric eatery on Monkey Forest.

The newly expanded Bamboo Bar & Lounge provides a tranquil setting for lazy afternoons accompanied by tasty snacks, wood fired pizza and fruity cocktails right on the beach in Sanur.

A whimsical restaurant with relaxed, fun and family-friendly attitude and signature Balinese and barbeque dishes, set in a lush and artistic compound.

Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud

Prama Sanur Beach Bali, Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur | P +62 361 288 011

Jl. Raya Mas Ubud P +62 361 849 3601

Hujan Locale

Living Food Lab

Locavore

Providing a twist on traditional Indonesian food, Hujan Locale also serves a combination of dishes typically found in the backstreet kitchens of south east Asia, and focuses on slow grassroots cooking.

An experiment in conscious eating, Living Food Lab also celebrates the notion of food as an art form, with meals beautifully served on wicker plates lines with ornamentallycut banana leafs.

Winner of the 2014 Traveller’s Choice award for ‘Best Fine Dining in Indonesia,’ Locavore uses local ingredients to create beautifully presented, imaginative, modern European cuisine.

Jl. Sri Wedari No. 5, Ubud P +62 361 849 3092

Jl. Monkey Forest 88x, Ubud

Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud P +62 361 977 733

Petani Restaurant at Alaya Ubud

Tsavo Lion Restaurant

Yanies Restaurant

A casual dining venue with seating for up to 120 guests, Petani celebrates the diverse flavours of the Indonesian archipelago.

Serving buffet breakfast and home-style regional cuisine for lunch and dinner.

With its African-inspired décor and distinctive fine dining menu created by an award-winning chef, Tsavo provides a unique experience.

All-day dining offering Indonesian, Japanese, Asian and Western specialties, including a separate outdoor barbecue and grill station that sizzles with sumptuous made-to-order alfresco fare.

Jl. Hanoman, Ubud

Bali Safari & Marine Park Jalan By Pass Ida Bagus Mantra Km. 19,8 Gianyar

Ubud Adventure Centre Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud P +62 361 898 9777

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Seminyak, Canggu

Best of Bali

Cafe Cous Cous

Crab Bar

An all-encompassing experience, from New York-style steakhouse, to Japanese robatayaki, and VIP roof top bar.

Serving up delightfully fresh and healthy food including Middle Eastern specialties and generous all day breakfasts.

Casual and raucous, this restaurant definitely lives up to its cheerful tagline ‘Hot Crab, Cold Beer’.

Jl. Raya Petitenget No 27C P +62 361 474 1122

Jl Bumbak | P +62 361 750 998

Jl. BatuBelig 106 P +62 361 849 9316

Desa Seni, A Village Resort

Angelita Tea Salon and Patisserie

Mantra

One of the most unique experiences in Bali with its drop-in yoga classes and flourishing organic gardens that provide the freshest fruit, vegetables and herbs for the restaurant.

A french patisserie that also serves mouthwatering savoury dishes in a classical setting on the busy street of kerobokan.

Truly a hidden gem.

Modern Australian cuisine made with local ingredients and imbued with Asian flavour, including exotic Indonesian herbs and spices.

P +62 361 844 6392

Jl Raya Kerobokan no 10A Banjar Taman Kerobokan Bali +62361 7473138 / +6281 238 974 888

Jalan Petitenget 77X P +62 361 473 7681

Primo Bali

Smokehouse BBQ

The Parlour

An artisan chocolate factory with a mission to make a world a better place through good chocolate.

Treat yourself to a carnivore’s dream with all the trappings! Thursday evenings at Anantara.

Funky retro design meets a tasty menu of eastern and western-style comfort food in the heart of Petitenget.

Jl. Bumbak 130X Banjar Anyar Kelod – Kerobokan P +62 361 743 3853

Wild Orchid Restaurant at Anantara, Seminyak Bali Resort &Spa P +62 361 737 773

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 15XX P +62 361 473 4654

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Kuta and North Bali, Nusa Dua

Bali Asli

Camilla Mozzarella Bali

Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub

Promoting Balinese cuisine and culture, Bali Asli works with the local community by supporting those who fish, farm and forage in the nearby fields, ocean and jungle.

Experience a delectable range of artisan cheese combining ancient recipes from southern Italy with local dairy products.

Authentically designed with antique Irish paraphernalia and souvenirs, Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub is the perfect place to have a great time in the heart of Kuta.

Jl. Glumpang, Amlapura, Karangasem P +62 8289 703 0098

Jl. Sunset Road 1X Seminyak

Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Poppies II 7c, Kuta | P +62 361 752 403

Lembongan Beach Club

Paradise Dynasty

Sembilan

A gourmet dining experience on the small sunny island of Lembongan, with a beachside menu consisting of classic and fusion dishes.

Amazing signature dumplings and Northern Chinese cuisine served in elegant surrounds.

A definite modern Balinese dining venue, combining island culinary traditions with contemporary presentation.

Pantai Jungut Batu, Nusa Lembongan P +62 361 737 282

Beachwalk L1 #B-12, 12A, Jalan Pantai Kuta | P +62 361 8465 582

Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian | +62 361 762500

Tetaring at Kayumanis Nusa Dua

The Caffeine Coffee Shop

The Warung at Alila Villas Uluwatu

An elegant dining venue introducing guests to the authentic flavours of cuisine from around the Indonesian archipelago.

A warm and affordable place slightly hidden from the street, serving good strong coffee and more.

Fabulous Indonesian cuisine with sublime ocean views creating a one-of-a kind experience.

BTDC Area Nusa Dua P.O. Box 777 Nusa Dua P +62 361 770777

Jl. Legian Kaja No. 462 Kuta +62 361 750 998

Jl Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu P +62 361 848 2166

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