march 2015 EDITION 67
ISSN 2085-5907
Inspired by Nature Bambu Indah
Indonesian Culinary Odyssey Paon at Taman Bhagawan
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Returning to theSource
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Contents
22
38
Photo by Brian Hodges
38
March Musings
22 Returning to The Source
The Latest
Asian Cuisine
12-15
34 Once Upon a Time in The East The Sayan House
Local Cuisine 16 Indonesian Culinary Odyssey Paon Doeloe
The Essential
Our Cover Photo by: Heri Obrink Location: Bambu Indah
Preserving Local Food Culture
The Main Affair 38 Inspired by Nature Bambu Indah
20 Food of the Gods
Dine and Leisure
The Newest
42 Cuisine for Life Manik Organik
26 Ubud's New Groove DaMar Restaurant
Let's Sip 30 Indonesian Brew Petani at Alaya Ubud
Street Food 46 Northern Cuisine
Traditional Recipe 48 Jukut Urap
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30 The Specialists 50 I Nyoman Agus Pandetria
Executive Chef
Dorin Schuster
16
58
34
Courtyard by Marriott Bali Executive Chef The Ritz Carlton Bali
The Insider 52 Jamie Oliver
Let’s Cook 54 Chocolate Ball Brownies
Island Life 56 Tropical Flavour
Awani
Must Try 58 A Labour of Love Sprout
Hungerlust
50
62 Cambodia: Beyond Angkor Wat
Regulars 66 Food Talk 67 Map & Directory
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a sophisticated dining experience
Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com www.thegangsa.com
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editor’s note
“Experiencing authentic Balinese delicacies” could be a good way to describe our journey in this issue. The extravagant beauty of the Island of Gods is not only to be seen on platters, but starts with discovering secret ingredients at Balinese markets and homes. I remember when I tasted one of the most delicious jukut undis at my friend’s house in Denpasar – savoury seasoning with turmeric and ginger perfectly soaked into crunchy and fresh vegetables. It was one of the most wonderful things I have ever tasted. The ingredients used to make this lovely dish, and others like it are not complicated or expensive. The beauty of Bali is the abundance of various plants, herbs and vegetables that make Balinese cuisine so rich in taste and texture. Moreover, Balinese cuisine also has a strong connection with religious rituals, thus there are some dishes that are made for certain ceremonial purposes. In this edition we explore the notion of returning to the source, and getting back to the roots of Balinese heritage cuisine. Our Musings feature (p.22) gives an introduction to Slow Food Bali, which aims to preserve local food traditions and “promote food that is fresh and wholesome, grown locally without chemicals, and with fair return to the producer.” Also on the cover, the atmospheric restaurant at Bambu Indah (p.40), which serves up local-style food (much of which is sourced from its own organic vegetable gardens.) A visit to the elegant Paon Doeloe at Taman Bhagawan (p.16) gives fine examples of regional food highlights in a beautiful beachfront setting. In this edition we also sample delicious tropical jams at Arwani (p.30), sip coffee from various regions of Indonesia at Petani Restaurant (p.30) and meet the one and only Jamie Oliver, who will be opening a restaurant in Bali soon (p.52). Flipping the pages will also reveal all the latest news on the F & B scene, tasty recipes, profiles and a handy guide to essential island ingredients. Happy Reading!
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your culinary guide
Senior Advisor A.A. Ngr. Mahendra Editor-in-Chief Managing Director Ayu Sawitri Hapsari Patricia TA Bid Business Development Alison Elisabeth Bone Managing Editor Via Wijaya Writers Menur Astuti Eve Tedja Kartika Dewi Suardana Sr. Art Director Aji Pambudi Graphic Designer Tri Angendari Director of Photography Heri Obrink Account Director Nidya Gustianingsih Account Executive Mitra Adi Rachman (accexecutive@visiworld.asia) Distribution & Circulation AA. Mayun, I Nyoman Supartika, Made Adnyana Cultural Advisor Kadek Wahyudita ‘Penggak’ OFFICE Khrisna Building II, 2nd Floor, Jalan Raya Kuta 88R, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia P+62 361 961 0066 F+62 361 762 241 contact@letseatmag.com www.letseatmag.com I www.visiworld.asia
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A well seasoned travel writer, Alison explored the world before arriving in Bali, where she quickly succumbed to the island’s exotic charms. Trading nomadic journeys for adventures of a culinary kind, she happily spends her time writing about restaurants and working on her first novel. alison.e.bone@gmail.com
Menur shares her time between Manado and Bali and admits she still hasn’t had the guts to try Manadonese Paniki – a dish made from bats, but she promises to write about it when she has. When in Bali, she loves trying new restaurants with friends, and particularly enjoys Vietnamese and Indian food, Connect with her @menurastuti
@letseatmag
Eve’s family motto has always been ‘live to eat rather than eat to live.’ Aside from eating, she also loves to write, travel, design and cook (although, admittedly that also involves eating.) Occasionally, you can find her bragging about where she eats and travels in her tweets @evetedja
Dewi has been working as an independent writer since 2005, and her book ‘Dances of Bali’ has sold more than 2000 copies. Aside from writing she is also passionate about diving, photography and actively volunteers for several non-profit organisations that are engaged in conservation work.
Let’s Eat! Magazine is published monthly under the direction of PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by the editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Let’s Eat! are reserved by PT Khrisna Inter Visi Media. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Let’s Eat! is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2013 Let’s Eat! ISSN 2085-5907 A Member of
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BALI
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the latest
A New Karma
With training in classical French, Mediterranean, Modern British, and Asian cuisine, it will be interesting to witness what chef Iain Murray will bring to the table at Karma Kandara. With a passion for utilising local produce, this Scottish-born chef has over 20 years of experience working for some of the world’s most exclusive luxurious brands, including Orient Express. Karma Kandara Resort Bali Jalan Villa Kandara Ungasan I P +62 361 8482202
A Run for Cancer
Bringing hope and inspiration to people in Bali who are battling cancer, Four Seasons Resort Bali recently hosted a 5km ‘Bali Hope for Life’ Fun Run. The route started and finished at the Lapangan Puputan Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar with a celebratory party afterward. The event successfully managed to raise funds for cancer awareness and treatment in Bali through cooperation with Yayasan Kanker Indonesia and Yayasan Kasih Anak Kanker Indonesia. Four Seasons Resort Bali Kawasan Bukit Permai Jimbaran I P +62 361 701010
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A Batik Maestro Exhibition
Iwan Tirta, the father of Indonesian batik created over 10,000 original hand drawn pieces of batik art before
passing away in 2010. Celebrating his craft, as well as the Iwan Tirta Private Collection’s latest selection, Boketan, an exhibition is being held as part of Conrad Bali’s acclaimed Living Lobby Art Exhibition, until the end of March 2015. Two-day batik making workshops are also available from March 19 –March 22, 2015 with accommodation in the Deluxe Garden Room for USD 265++ per night during the Balinese Hindu celebration of Silent Day. Conrad Bali I Jalan Pratama 168 Tanjung Benoa P +62 361 778788
The Spirit of 101 The 101 Bali Legian has won the vote of media participants and been labelled as ‘Indonesia Leading Lifestyle Hotel 2014.’ The contest was held by Indonesia Leading Lifestyle Award (ITTA) on their Facebook fan page. The award ceremony was held in Jakarta and boosted team morale for this successful and stylish lifestyle hotel set in the heart of Legian. The 101 Bali Legian Jalan Legian No. 117 Badung I P +62 361 3001101
Fashionable Tea Time The stylish and constantly innovative Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort recently announced its afternoon tea experience. For 129,000 IDR ++ per person, Fashion A to Tea is available everyday at The Lounge, from 2pm to 4pm. The tea experience includes a selection of sweet and savoury bites with special Dilmah T-series tea, as well as cocktail options featuring signature drinks with various tea infusions. In addition to tea treats, guests will be able to take advantage of shopping discounts with preferred Beachwalk retailers. Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Jalan Pantai Kuta I P +62 361 8465555 let’s eat! 13
A Sweet Espresso Starbucks has a new limited edition offer for its customers – Espresso Confections, coffee infusions inspired by candy confections and luxurious flavours of chocolate. There will be a sweet Raspberry Truffle Mocha and delicious Chestnut Crème Latte made with signature coffee blend such as Guatemana Casi Cielo and South of the Clouds. Starbucks VIA Vanilla Latte is also available for purchase so that you can enjoy your favourite latte at home. For more info please go to www. starbucks.co.id
A Romantic Getaway Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence recently created a special package for couples in search of romantic retreats on the Island of the Gods. With just IDR RP3,238,000 couples will be spoiled with a 3 day, 2 nights stay in a Superior Room which includes breakfast for two, free airport transfers, a one day tour and a special romantic dinner for two. Terms and conditions may apply. Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence Jalan Wanasegara Kuta I P +62 361 754999
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A Homage for Padang Cuisine
A respected culinary expert, author and entrepreneur, Reno Andam Suri, recently shared her expertise in The Warung Kitchen at Alila Villas Uluwatu. Collaborating with Alila’s culinary team, she also presented a night of West Sumatran signature dishes. The West Sumatran region, fondly known as Minangkabau is home to the nation’s favourite food, rendang and can be found all over the archipelago. Reno’s “Rendang Uni Farah”, a vacuum-packed rendang manages to make the dish accessible to an even wider audience.
Alila Villas Uluwatu P +62 361 8482166
I Jalan Belimbing Sari Pecatu
Small and luxurious Beachfront property, Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, recently won the prestigious Small Hotel Award by the International Hotel Awards 2014 committee, representing Indonesia and the Asia Pacific region. After a tough selection process winners were revealed at a gala presentation dinner in London and the award was accepted by Clinton Lovell, General Manager of Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa and Djoni Hasjim, the owner’s representative. Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa Jalan Abimanyu (Dhyana Pura) I P +62 361 737773
New Direction
The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali recently gained a new Executive Assistant Manager of Food & Beverage. Mr. Alex Dietzsch is now in charge of revitalising the culinary service at the resort and enhancing the guest dining experience. A German native, Dietzsch has been part of Starwood Hotels & Resorts for almost 10 years, working his way from Dubai to Bangkok and now Bali. Prior to his arrival on the island, he was the Director of Food & Beverage at The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok. The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua BTDC Lot N-3 P +62 361 771906
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local cuisine
Indonesian
Culinary Odyssey
It is hard to pinpoint exactly what Indonesian cuisine is, considering the nation has over 300 ethnic groups, each with its own dizzying array of culture, history and food. The elegant, cultural restaurant Paon Doeloe at Taman Bhagawan gives some fine examples of regional highlights in a beautiful beachfront setting in Tanjung Benoa.
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Ikan Bakar Colo Dabu Dabu
A sweeping lawn with grandiose water fountain is the main feature of Taman Bhagawan, Bali’s popular venue for events and celebrations, while the glimmering stretch of Tanjung Benoa’s white sandy beach provides a brilliant backdrop. In the middle of those two dramatic features, lies Paon Doeloe in
Be Bebek Goreng Mesisit
all its Javanese timber house elegance. Approaching slowly, we gush and take plenty of pictures. Antique terracotta pots and Javanese wooden sculptures decorate the open-air timber house, better known as a joglo. Flipping through the menu, we cannot help but be impressed by the wide selection of Indonesian dishes from the islands of Sumatra all the way down to Sulawesi. The debate of what
even finishing the first! the accompanying young banana stem soup – another Balinese delicacy, is also worth slurping for. Moving on to West Java, Ayam Panggang Taman Bhagawan, a flavourful grilled chicken breast with raw vegetable or lalapan and chillies relish is served. It manages to be soft and juicy inside, with a delicate taste that is both sweet and sour.
to order is a heated one. Mercifully, soothing fruity
Going farther north, Ikan Bakar Colo Dabu Dabu of
drinks arrive to cool us down. My personal favourite is
Maluku is our next dish, known for its light freshness and
the Healthy Juice, made of pineapple juice, lime and
saucy tomato dressing. Using local snapper, the timely
caisim or Chinese cabbage.
grilled fish fillet will make any Malukunese happy. The
Be Bebek Goreng Mesisit arrives first with its accompanying rice, mixed vegetables and Balinese shallot relish. The duck is deep fried until crispy brown and then shredded to create an almost flosslike texture. We order a second helping before
dabu dabu tomato dressing sauce on top successfully brings the best out of the fish. Sighing happily after this culinary odyssey, we close the long lunch with a burst-inyour-mouth Klepon, a sweet Balinese dessert of steamed rice flour filled with liquid palm sugar. Eve
Paon Doeloe at Taman Bhagawan I Jalan Pratama No. 70 Tanjung Benoa I P +62 361 776555
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52 I 10am – 10pm I Nusa Dua Map B-5
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the essentials
Coriander Seeds Chilli Balinese chillis are small and hot, and
Freshly ground coriander seeds cool the body and settle the stomach. They can be used as a substitute for pepper and are a popular addition to curry.
create the fire of many types of sambals. Chilli is believed to stimulate the appetite and is packed with vitamin C.
Taste of the
Gods
“Real� Balinese food is rarely available in tourist areas as it takes a lot of time to prepare and is tastiest when eaten fresh. The best opportunity to experience authentic local cuisine is when a Balinese family invites you to their dining table. Here we reveal the secret of Balinese spices.
Lemongrass A short thin grass with a distinct lemon flavour. It is related to citronella and has a bulbous root which is most often used in cooking. Lemongrass stalks replace sticks in the famous Balinese dish, sate lilit.
The fruit is small and has a
Turmeric
strong lime flavor and is commonly squeezed into sambals and rujak ( traditional
Turmeric is a member of the
fruit salads). Leaves are dark
lily family with many fingers
green, smooth and highly
that have rough brown skin and a bright orange/yellow coloured flesh. The taste is strong and pungent and
Kaffir Lime
fragrant and are commonly used in curries.
adds unique flavour and colour to curries.
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musings
Retuto rning the Sou rce Preserving local food culture
While the popular adage, ‘we are what
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This is where the Slow Food movement
we eat’ is of course an exaggeration, it’s
enters the picture. Slow Food is a
nevertheless a good place to start. No
grassroots global organisation aimed at
one can argue with the fact that a good
countering the growth of fast food, and
balanced diet of protein, grains, fresh
the disappearance of local food traditions,
vegetables and fruit is the key to a healthy
while also promoting gastronomic
life, but how many of us actually practice
pleasure and a slower pace of life. Slow
this. Are we eating consciously, or are we
Food was established in Italy in the 1980’s
just getting a quick fix to fill our stomachs?
with a group of activists protesting the
How often do we really think about what
opening of a McDonald’s in the historic
we are eating – where it came from, who
heart of Rome. It now has thousands of
produced it, how it tastes, and how it
projects and millions of supporters in 160
makes us feel?
countries, including Indonesia.
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Intrigued by the concept, I spend an insightful morning in Ubud with Slow Food Bali co-founder Cat Wheeler, a well known author and columnist on the island. We drink coffee at her big wooden kitchen table. “It was here,” she tells me, “that Slow Food Bali was born in 2009.” Their aim is to promote good, clean, fair food. “That means food that is fresh and wholesome, grown locally without chemicals, and with fair return to the producer,” she explains. The group holds regular educational events and supports a number of projects with the aim of making people more aware of what is available locally and encouraging them to choose local food products over imports. Cat tells me that, “Bali traditionally only had two economic legs, agriculture and tourism, but with over nine million tourists visiting annually agriculture is increasingly unprotected, while tourism is uncontrolled.” Foreign visitors bring money to the island, creating disposable incomes, changing tastes and the need for imported items – which all affects local diet and produce. “The core of every culture is its cuisine, but a huge number of traditional food items are falling off the plate. Forty years ago rice was eaten sparingly, cut with sweet potato, taro or corn and eaten with
Mary Jane Edleson, Co Founder Slowfood Bali
pumpkin, greens and tofu and occasionally a little fish or meat. It was a healthy and nutritious diet, oil was rarely used and the traditional mortar-ground spices had their own medicinal properties.” Sadly, the increase in prosperity has led to a decrease in nutrition as people move away from traditional foods. With the introduction of hybrid strains of rice that yield up to three crops a year (as opposed to the higher quality Balinese rice that yields just one,) people now eat much more rice and fewer vegetables, as well as processed snacks, white bread and packaged noodles which have very little nutritional value. One of the chief goals of Slow Food Bali is to educate, and Convivium Leader, Mary Jane Edleson has helped establish a demonstration farm
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"The core of every culture is its cuisine, but a huge number of traditional food items are falling off the plate"
in Baturiti with the agricultural faculty of Udayana University. She is also working on showcasing traditional island ingredients such as the tasty Bali black pig, which has all but disappeared thanks to introduction of the pink hybrid pig that matures much more quickly and grows much bigger on a diet of chemical feed. Regular Slow Food Bali events highlight local produce, such as A Heritage Rice tasting event last year at Sari Organik which featured rare varieties of rice from all over the archipelago, spanning the colour
Why eat local food?
spectrum from white through beige, pink, red, brown and black. To find out more and learn about fascinating upcoming events, check www.slowfoodbali.com Alison
Fresh seasonal produce harvested when ripe is at its optimum in terms of taste and nutritional value, rather than products that are picked green and transported long distance, thus increasing carbon footprint and degrading quality. Eating locally gives us better knowledge and control over what we are eating and ensures the survival of traditional methods and products. Consider supporting your local farmers market and restaurants that choose local organically grown produce.
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the newest
Ubud’s
New Groove
Burger Parade
Boldly mixing Mediterranean and Asian flavours, DaMar Restaurant, Bar & Lounge in Ubud is playing its own culinary tune.
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Spicy Funky
Sipping my Fragola Martini after a long walk in the
manage to get two. A Spicy Funky is my second drink,
sweltering heat, I immediately feel better. It is that odd
with a refreshing taste of lemongrass, ginger juice and
hour before dinner when people are not quite sure what
Bacardi. People gazing is possible where I am sitting, at
to do to kill the remains of the day. I have chosen wisely,
the front of the restaurant overlooking busy Pengosekan
with happy hour at DaMar Restaurant, Bar & Lounge,
Street.
where even though you only pay for one drink, you
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Tournedo Rossini
Pork Belly
My friend arrives and we slowly progress to dine.
Eye Fillet, perfectly grilled to medium rare with
Opened in August last year, DaMar was co-
the exquisite company of sautĂŠ spinach, shimeji
founded by Arya Dyatmika and his team. The line of
mushroom and potato. Sitting on top of the steak is
experienced French and Balinese cuisine chefs in the
a bite of foie gras. Indeed, the constant use of the
kitchen are evidence of their passion for food. We
prized duck liver is a nice surprise, considering the
begin our early dinner with Ventaglio di Salmone,
affordability of the food.
thinly sliced salmon with naughty bites of snake fruit and blue cheese crumbles. It is a balanced dance of sweet and salty. Since we are appetiser kind of girls, the Burger Parade is served next. Three mini burgers each filled with beef, chicken and foie gras. The meats are tender and timely grilled to maintain juiciness.
My friend decides to ignore her cholesterol concerns and goes for the Pork Belly. It has been slowly roasted for the last 14 hours and the crunchy crackling sound of the skin is solid proof of the process. Incorporating Balinese spices, the pork is served with Sayur Urap, a coconut and vegetable salad that manages to
After two strong appetisers, we are sure the main
compliment the meat. A few bites later, I wave my
courses will not disappoint. Hence, when the
white tissue and call the experience a job well done.
Tournedo Rossini is served, we know it is going to
Eve
taste as good as the rest. The steak is Black Angus
DaMar Restaurant, Bar & Lounge I Jalan Raya Padang Tegal Pengosekan, Ubud I P +62 361 978374
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50 I Ubud Map C-3
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HD_PUB_LETSEAT_12,75x21cm_2014.pdf
1
11/12/2014
21:26
let's sip
Iced -Malabar Coffee
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Cappuccino
Spinach Tempura
Indonesian Brew
A long and pleasant afternoon at the delightful Petani restaurant at Alaya Ubud takes us on a caffeine-fuelled journey from the highlands of West Java to the volcanic slopes of Bali and the fabled region of Tana Toraja in Sulawesi. Fringing scenic rice fields in Ubud, Petani’s décor
While coffee is not native to Indonesian, Dutch
is an atmospheric blend of Moroccan and Balinese
colonists discovered a climate ideal for growing and
influences, with terracotta floors and mottled grey
producing coffee and the archipelago is now one of
walls adorned in framed batik prints. While the menu
the largest producers of coffee in the world. Methods
is international, Indonesian cuisine – in particular
of growing vary wildly from island to island and Alaya
Balinese dishes – are a specialty. Indonesian coffee
partners with Kopiku – a well known company who
is also a highlight and a fascinating array of coffee
work directly with coffee farmers and co-ops across
contraptions are on display, used to brew the
the archipelago, to create high quality blends.
restaurant’s four signature blends.
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Balinese Barista, Indah, tells me that her love of all things coffee led to her vocation, and she talks us through each of her creations, starting with a Malabar blend from West Java, prepared in a twin chambered glass syphon where it gurgles seductively, releasing an intoxicating aroma. The taste is medium bodied and chocolaty – even more so when I add a little brown sugar. I learn that the beans, once harvested have been exposed to monsoon rain and wind for four months causing them to swell and lose the original acidity, which explains the smoothness of the coffee. I also try an Iced Malabar Coffee prepared in an elaborate, Japanesestyle glass tower that looks like something straight out of a science lab. Cold pressed and slow dripped over eight hours, the result is lighter, fruitier and more aromatic. Singaraja coffee comes from the north of Bali and has a nutty aroma and just a hint of bitter chocolate, while the renowned coffee growing region of Toraja in Sulawesi produces full bodied, balanced coffee that is just a little spicy. We opt for a Vietnamese-style preparation, with hot water slowly poured over coffee grounds then dripped through a filter. The rich, smooth house blend is used for Italian-style coffees prepared in a state of the art La Marzocco coffee machine imported from Florence. Not surprisingly my Cappuccino is perfect. Those in the mood for something cool and sweet can order a Black Forest or Oreo Brittle Frappuccino, while healthy juices also make it onto the menu. Buzzing from our little coffee venture, we are definitely in need of grounding, and order an assortment of tapas, appetisers and mains. Chef Made Siharta formerly worked for the royal family of Ubud and applies his regal touch to both western and Asian dishes. The Canape de Bali has a selection of Balinese delicacies, the crispy Spinach Tempura comes with a spicy wasabi mayonnaise, while a white, richly textured, almond-based Gazpacho has just a touch of capsicum salsa. The Grilled Jimbaran Bay Tuna is a tasty main course marinated in lemon juice, and stacked on a delicious creamy mash of purple sweet potatoes. Alison
Petani @ Alaya Ubud I Jalan Hanoman I P +62 361 972200
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120 I Open 7am - 11pmI Ubud Map E-3
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asian cuisine
On
me
naT o p U i ce
in the East A passionate contemporary Asian restaurant overlooking Sayan Hill, The Sayan House brings a whole new level of sophistication to the Ubud dining scene.
SautĂŠed Foie Grass Nigiri Thai-Style Green Curry Fettucini
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Entering the restaurant through a large open-kitchen
neighbour for dinner. Eventually, we sit on the veranda.
opposite a teppanyaki table and well-equipped bar, we
The light is romantically dim, the crickets are happily
are instantly hit by the delicious aroma of food being
chirping and there, in front of us, the lush green view
cooked. The host kindly give us a tour of the house,
of Sayan hill. As if to put an emphasis on the romantic
up to the intimate living room on the second floor and
ambience of the evening, a light drizzle of rain falls
down to the lounge area where guest can drink and
around us.
linger. It feels like visiting your well-travelled and chic
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We start our special
My partner decides to go with
night with drinks. A
Jambalaya with Grilled Chicken and
rich golden liquid of
Vegetables, a grilled chicken thigh
Yamazaki Whiskey for
seasoned in Cajun spice and Balinese
my partner, and a fruity Grandma’s Sangria for me. We welcome our starters with glee. A theatrical Porcini Royale Soup Consommé is presented in
herbs. The chicken is wonderfully marinated, tender and easy to tear from its bone. Meanwhile, I go for the Thai-Style Green Curry Fettuccine, a decision that I do not regret at all. Tossed with fresh shrimp, squid
a siphon, boiled down and then poured
and crab meat; the dish is a match made in pasta
into two delicate bowls of chawanmushi. The earthy
heaven. Rich, savoury and ultimately satisfying.
fragrance of the porcini mushroom soup engulfs the egg mustard in an embrace that instantly warms our stomach while small bites of duck meat successfully strengthens the flavour. Another starter, the Sautéed Foie Gras Nigiri, is probably the most decadent sushi that I have ever eaten in my life. The foie gras is richly
Fully satiated, we lean on our chairs. It is raining in earnest now, but we are not in a rush to leave. For us, time stops for a while, in this serene corner of Ubud where European decadence and Asian hospitality are quite happily married. Eve
marinated in soy sauce then pan fried to perfection. The Sayan House I Jalan Raya Sayan No. 70 Ubud
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I P +62 361 4792593
100
I Open 12pm- 11pm www.letseatmag.com
the main affair
Inspired by Nature With soaring bamboo structures and antique wooden houses rising from flourishing tropical gardens, Bambu Indah is truly a sight to behold and an experience to be savoured.
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Photo by Brian Hodges
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Photo by Brian Hodges
While Ubud abounds with leafy resorts commanding
bamboo, with a
dramatic vistas, Bambu Indah, which translates as
striking curved
beautiful bamboo, is in a category all of its own. Starting
roof of black
life as the family home for renowned jewellers and
thatch, inspired
founders of the Green School, John and Cynthia Hardy;
by the batak
its metamorphosis into a resort happened somewhat
houses of Sumatra.
organically, starting with several small houses to accommodate visiting friends and clients. Wishing to welcome more people into their home and their world, they eventually decided to turn the property into a luxury boutique eco resort. Hardy is also the founder of PT Bamboo, a company that grows and harvests bamboo and specialises in bamboo buildings. A stunning centre piece of the resort is a magnificent pavilion of black
Nestled amidst the banana groves, coconut palms and lush garden beds are 11 antique Javanese teak houses, fresh water swimming pool clinging to the edge of the ravine and an atmospheric, open-sided restaurant built from bamboo. Supremely eco conscious, Hardy’s idea was that everything in the organic garden should be edible. Each morning gardeners collect produce straight
Bambu Indah I Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan Ubud I P +62 361 977 922
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75
I Open 7am – 10pm
from the grounds, as well as the Green School gardens, and Hardy’s son, Orin’s neighbouring farm – where pigs, chickens and cows are also raised. The resulting, daily changing menu at Dapoer Restaurant is a celebration of nature’s bounty with zero tolerance on non healthy products such as MSG and chemically processed food. The open kitchen is a wonderfully rustic space filled with stone and antique wood counters, terracotta floors, and a gorgeous igloo-style cool room. Here, a family-style approach to cooking combines Balinese traditional food made with authentic recipes and techniques as well as salads, wraps, Jackfruit Sandwich
fresh juices and raw food. Leading the team are Balineseborn Kadek, and Javanese-born Sri who have both worked for the family for 14 years and find inspiration all around them. “What am I going to do with so many mangos,” wondered Sri, gazing out at the heavily-laden trees. One of her answers is a delightful Raw Mango Wrap made with dehydrated mango and filled with fresh julienned vegetables. The abundance of jackfruit results in our Jackfruit Sandwich, with thick tasty slices of jackfruit boiled and pan fried with bumbu Bali (local spices) then layered with carrots, purple leaves and free range chicken. Traditional Balinese cuisine includes the Pepes Ikan, softly flavoured fish cooked with kemangi (lemon basil), and accompanied with grilled eggplant, sweet crunchy tempeh manis and a fiery sambal goreng (fried sambal.) Tasty fern tips are plucked straight from the leafy fronds that frame the dining room,and seasoned with raw sambal matah to make a fabulous side dish. The spring chicken is prepared with Balinese spices then grilled to crispiness, with sides including peanuts, vegetables and a wonderful dish of fresh young
Passion Fruit Pie, Dadar Guling, Dried Fruit
coconut boiled in garlic, white ginger, shallots and coconut milk. The rich, spicy Bebek Tutu (duck) is served with nutty organic brown rice shaped as a tumpeng (tower) and fabulous bregedel – corn fritters flavoured with kaffir lime, shallots and chilli. Dessert is a tart Passion Fruit Pie, with fruit plucked from the vines at the back of the restaurant and Dadar Gulung, Balinese pancakes filled with coconut and palm sugar. There is also a selection of Dried Fruit including papaya, pineapple and banana which is still a little soft – more semi dried than dried. Awarded the snail of approval by Slow Foods Bali, Bambu Indah provides a wholesome yet luxurious back to nature retreat. Alison let’s eat! 41
dine and leisure
42 let’s eat!
a fine balance
Raw Chocolate Pie Nasi Campur Kojong Bali
Manik Organik needs no further introduction to food lovers on the island thanks to its organic, wholesome dishes and yoga classes. We join a cooking class and learn to make some easy Indonesian dishes.
Arriving right on time to join a cooking class, we are given aprons, and stools to sit on. The menu that we are learning today is definitely Indonesian and quite easy to make: Gado-gado, Banana Leaf Steamed Fish and Balinese Crepe. Soon, we find ourselves cutting, whisking and of course, pestling the peanut sauce for the Gado-gado in a traditional Indonesian stone mortar and pestle. The cooking class consists of just ten people, which is intimate enough to allow us to laugh at each other’s silly mistakes, and for the teacher to closely guide us. The class lasts for around three hours, including sufficient breaks for tasting the food that you cook by your own hand.
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let’s eat! 43
After waving our fellow cooking students goodbye, we pick a spot to sit and start flipping through the menu. Overlooking the leafy part of Tamblingan Road in Sanur, Manik Organik looks like a tree house from outside. Open-air, cosy and green, the restaurant is a lovely place to linger. Daily yoga class are available in the morning and in the evening, as well as painting classes (reservations necessary). A small corner of the cafe acts as a shop selling natural products.
and melts softly in the mouth. Soon, men and women clad in yoga clothes start to arrive. The second class of the day is about to start in the studio upstairs. In addition to yoga, Manik Organik also offers a range of healing treatments like massage, reiki, acupuncture and more. Creative souls will also be pleased to learn that there is a music and open mic performance program, facilitated by this hub for body, mind and soul. Eve
Juice for Jumping comes first. A refreshing mixture of apple, ginger, mint and cucumber which I gulp down in no time. Our shared starter comes next, an MO Grazing Plate which is beautifully plated with potato balls, grilled Moroccan samosa with a finger licking good mango chutney, spring roll and falafel. Aside from its delectable look, each and every combination is deliciously done. My friend decides to go full board with the Nasi Campur Kojong Bali with its rich array of vegetables, tofu, tempeh and chicken. Meanwhile, my treat of the day is Baramundi with Dukha Crust. It is fresh, timely grilled and the dukha on the top creates an extra crunchiness that goes really well with the fish. We close the meal with another round of juices and a portion of Raw
Baramundi with Dukha Crust
Chocolate Pie that is rich in dark chocolate and coconut
Manik Organik
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I Jalan Danau Tamblingan No. 85 Sanur I P +62 361 855 3380 I Sanur Map C-4 www.letseatmag.com
Enjoy Bali leave the rest to us Jalan Pratama 97A, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua - Bali 80363 Tel: +62-361-773-730 / Fax: +62-361-773-840 www.ramadaresortbenoa.com
street food
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Northern Cuisine North Bali is known for its beautiful landscape where
the regency, Singaraja. A Chinese temple by the beach
layered hills stand side by side with the blue sea.
in Singaraja is further evidence of Buleleng’s mixed
Buleleng, the northern regency of the island has more
ethnicity, as is its variety of cuisine.
than a dozen attractive waterfalls and green hills covered with endemic vegetation and commodity plantations, such as coffee, clove, mango and other fruits trees. Meanwhile the coastal area offers serene getaways, where sea, sand and sun collide, and underwater beauty is extravagant. Buleleng was also the gateway to the island when the first Chinese traders arrived.
The regency that is known for their siobak – a Chinesestyle pork dish, is also known for their belayag. These dishes can usually can be easily found in a small food stall or in the market in the afternoon. In Buleleng, some locals treat belayag as a small meal between lunch and dinner. Belayag is actually a rice cake. Unlike rice cakes in general that have a square shape, belayag has a
On the hillside, you might hear the sound of Adzan
long slender shape, however the taste is the same. The
(Muslim prayer) from time to time because Muslims from
rice cake is served with condiments, vegetable dishes,
Java came to the area a hundred years ago then settled
chicken dish, and soup. This is one of several dishes in
here to become Balinese Muslim. Meanwhile, Chinese-
the area made from recipes that have been transferred
style houses and shops line the lanes in the capital of
from generation to generation.
46 let’s eat!
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The dish is hot and spicy with a little touch of sweet and savoury. The sambal bongkot adds extra unique flavour to the whole plate and also releases an appetising fragrance. A plate of belayag is kind of a multi-flavoured explosion in the mouth. Dapoer Buleleng also sells other local comfort foods such as Es Campur – a bowl of mixed fruits, grass jelly and palm fruit topped with ice and drizzled with syrup and condensed milk. Jajan Bali (traditional cakes) such as laklak – a type of pancake is made fresh upon order, while Jaja Lupis – triangle-shaped cakes made of glutinous rice is also displayed in the showcase. Dewi
Dapoer Buleleng, which is located in Jalan Teuku Umar Barat, better known as Jalan Marlboro, offers a selection of Buleleng cuisine. I visited one drizzling afternoon to find it full of customers. The humble wooden construction is clean and comfortable enough for dine in and I ordered Buleleng’s most famous comfort food, which is Belayag. Here it is served together with a little portion of pulled chicken betutu – Bali’s authentic chicken dish, urap (mixed boiled vegetables with shredded grilled coconut), boiled egg, sambal bongkot, and a wide flat crispy rempeyek udang – deep fried shrimp fritter. The belayag is half soaked in pale yellow soup with a mixture of several spices including turmeric and coconut milk, and the condiments are simply arranged on the top of the belayag.
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let’s eat! 47
traditional recipe
b Jukut Urab b A vegetable dish is always part of a complete meal in Balinese cuisine. For example a plate of Bali’s famous babi guling – suckling pig, is served with a vegetable dish called lawar, made from boiled young jack fruit mixed with long bean and spices. In a megibung event where a group of men eat together from one big tray made of woven coconut leaf, rice is served with a variety of meat and vegetable dishes. Jukut urab, boiled vegetables mixed with spicy grated grilled coconut, is one of the most common vegetable dishes on the Balinese cooking scene. The watery and crunchy texture of the vegetables counter the fiery explosion of the cayenne pepper. Meanwhile, the coconut contributes sweet savoury flavour to the cuisine. jukut urab can be devoured as an appetiser just like salad, or enjoyed with warm rice.
Ingredients:
Spices
50 gr Cabbage, boiled, thinly
7 Cayenne pepper
3/4 tsp Salt
sliced
1/2tsp Shrimp paste
1/4 tsp Black pepper powder
50 gr Spinach, boiled
1 tbsp Deep fried shallot
1 tsp Sugar
75 gr Long bean, cut 2.5 cm,
2 cloves of Garlic, thinly sliced
1/2 tbsp Coconut oil
boiled
1 Chilli, thinly sliced
1 tsp Lime juice
75 gr Beansprouts, soaked in hot
3 Lime leaves, thinly sliced
2 tbsp Vegetable oil for sautée
water for 5 minute and drained
1 cm Kaempferia galangal, finely
2tbsp Deep fried shallot
chopped
1 Chilli, sliced 100 gr Grated grilled coconut
Method: Heat the pan and the vegetable oil. Sauté the thinly sliced cayenne pepper and shrimp paste till fragrant. Put into a mortar and grind till smooth. Mix all the boiled vegetable and the deep fried shallot in a bowl. Use hand to mix all the spices and knead a little while mixing to extract the juice of the spices. Add the cayenne pepper and shrimp paste and mix it well. Mix the vegetable and the spices right before serving.
48 let’s eat!
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Minicards Bali
PT Khrisna inter Visi Media Jalan raya Kuta 88r Kuta, Bali 80361 - indonesia p +62 361 755 136 f +62 361 762 241 e info@visiworld.asia
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Check the QR code to learn more about Minicards
the specialist
I Nyoman Agus Pandetria
Dorin Schuster
Executive Chef
Executive Chef
Bringing with him over 20 years of five-star culinary
Having grown up in the southern part of Germany,
expertise, Chef Agus is now in charge of all the
Chef Schuster found his passion for cooking as a
Courtyard’s food and beverage outlets. “Our food is
child. “My love for cooking was inspired by my
warm and familiar. We want our guests to feel at home
mother, and I learned about the craft during my
and therefore we have a wide variety of food to offer,
apprenticeship,” says the chef who has been working
including Indonesian food. I believe each and every
in Indonesia since 1999. Spending the first years of his
guest must try a good Indonesian dish during their
career in Europe’s leading hotel such as Hotel Adlon
stay here,” says the Klungkung- born Chef. With his
in Berlin before moving to several places in Jakarta,
national and international culinary awards and vast
Singapore and finally, Bali, he is now in charge of
experience, exciting things are in store for this new
overseeing the culinary outlets of the newly opened
hotel.
five-star resort With his experiences in European
Courtyard by Marriott Bali Nusa Dua Kawasan Pariwisata Lot SW1 Nusa Dua P +62 361 3003888
cuisine combined with Asian sensibilities, it is going
50 let’s eat!
to be a thrilling year ahead in The Ritz Carlton Bali. The Ritz Carlton Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Lot #3 Sawangan P +62 361 8498988
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Chefs Battle!
We meet two of Bali’s most talented Executive Chefs, I Nyoman Agus Pandetria of Courtyard by Marriott, Nusa Dua, and Dorin Schuster of The Ritz Carlton Bali. Despite differences in origin, both of these executive chefs share a deep passion for Bali and Balinese cuisine.
Q: How did find your passion for cooking?
Q: What is your other passion aside from cooking?
Chef Agus: Our house had a large backyard where we
Chef Agus: Swimming, jogging and tending to my
used to grow herbs and spices and I started to cook and
bonsai. I also love fixing old vespas and old bicycles.
experiment back then. My uncle was a sous chef as well as a lecturer at Nusa Dua Tourism College and he introduced me to the professional culinary world. Chef Dorin: I grew up in South Germany and was lucky to have a mother who used to bake her own bread every day. We had an organic garden to grow fresh vegetables,
Chef Dorin: Making sure that I have a quality time with my wife and kids. I also have a secret passion for fast cars!
Q: How can we make Balinese food better known abroad or at least nationally?
herbs and berries and I would help her preparing dishes
Chef Agus: We can start to make it more popular
and I guess that’s when I developed my passion for
through our own establishments, making sure that
cooking, and the ability to appreciate freshly made dishes.
what we call Balinese dishes are faithful to their
Q: How do you define Balinese cuisine?
original recipe.
Chef Agus: Spicy and contains plenty of flavour. Balinese
festivals outside of Bali and Indonesia, culinary
food is all about sharing and togetherness. Imagine how from a single duck one should create enough soup to feed the whole family! It’s that kind of resourcefulness that created Balinese cuisine in the first place. It’s creative, always fresh and there are no short-cuts in cooking a proper Balinese dish. Chef Dorin: Unique recipes and cooking techniques. Balinese cuisine uses a combination of lots of fresh herbs and spices, and generally has a savoury taste as it is normally enjoyed with rice. Best served and enjoyed with
Chef Dorin: Through promotions, such as food workshops and cooking classes. We can also take Balinese chefs abroad to make special dinners for events.
Q: Do tell us about your favourite Balinese food! Chef Agus: Bebek Betutu, Sate Lilit and Lawar (mixed vegetable with shredded coconut) Chef Dorin: Babi Guling (Suckling Pig), Bebek Betutu, Sate Lilit Ikan and Sambal Matah
company, where you can pile up a bit of everything on your plate!
Text by Eve
let’s eat! 51
the insider
52 let’s eat!
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Between recording for his cooking show, managing his restaurant empire and campaigning for better food education, Jamie Oliver makes time to chat with us about his upcoming new venture in Bali, Jamie’s Italian, and what’s in store for us on its unveiling.
We can't wait for the unveiling of Jamie's Italian in Bali! Can you tell us more about the decor, the menu, the service? The menu at Jamie's Italian is all about really good, simple, affordable Italian food using the very best ingredients we can lay out hands on. All the produce we use is higher welfare, sustainable and fantastic quality. We just want all our guests to have a really great time with us and I think we do well in keeping our service relaxed and fun but really knowledgeable. It sounds obvious but I just want our guests to have a really good time whenever they visit the restaurant. If they leave having had great food and fantastic service in a brilliant atmosphere and with a bit of spare change in their pocket then I’ll be happy.
Is there any difference between Bali's Jamie's Italian with the other Jamie's Italian restaurants? Kuta Beach is going to be one of our smallest restaurants and it's going to have a really nice playful, colourful interior. I want people to feel they're on holiday when they walk through the door. The design is really inspired by the area’s marine history. What's also pretty special is
We already have a restaurant in Singapore and when our partners suggested this little gem in Bali we all agreed it was a fantastic site. It's definitely a different kind of venture for us but it's really exciting. Providing our guests would like to see more sites in Indonesia we'd definitely love to have a few more. Watch this space!
Have you been to Bali? Will you be here for the opening of Jamie's Italian? I haven't been to Bali sadly. I'd love to visit but unfortunately I don't think it will around the opening. Juggling being a great husband and dad alongside being a boss and travelling can be a bit tricky sometimes and it does mean that I can't be everywhere I'd like to be. I'll have my full team out there though whom I trust implicitly.
TV shows, cookbook, restaurants, magazine... you seem unstoppable! What will we get to see next from Jamie Oliver? Food Tube is also really exciting at the moment. If you haven’t checked it out, have a look as we’ve got some absolutely brilliant content on there. We're also about to
that the building overlooks the sea front.
open our first restaurant in Brazil which is hugely exciting.
Why Bali? Is there a plan to open more restaurants in Indonesia?
To learn more about Jamie’s Italian please go to www.jamieoliver.com Text by Eve
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let’s eat! 53
let’s cook
Chocolate Ball Brownies Founded on their love of cooking, sisters, Arysma Dewi and Siska Anykasari, started their homemade dessert catering company, Moon’s Pastry, while both still at school. They first set up their business in 2013 sending colourful and creative cakes, puddings and desserts to their aunts and neighbours. These days they have regular customers for community gatherings parties and special events. Here they share one of their tasty recipes.
Ingredients 300 gr white sugar 200 gr butter 200 gr flour 6 eggs ½ tsp baking powder 50 gr chocolate powder 150 gr chocolate block Rum Cream cheese Moon’s Pastry Instagram @moonspastrybali Siska Anykasari (+62 878 6062 2052)
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2
3
Whisk white sugar and eggs in a mixing bowl for 15 minutes.
Add flour, chocolate powder and baking powder.
5
6
1
Prepare all the ingredients
4
Melt the butter in a hot pan.
7
Grease a baking tray with butter and pour on the batter. Steam for 20 minutes, then allow to cool.
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Melt the chocolate in a hot pan and add to the mix.
Add melted butter.
8
9
Mix rum and cream cheese with the brownie mix, then roll into small balls.
Use a stick to skewer each ball, dip into melted chocolate then place in the freezer till set.
let’s eat! 55
island life
Tropical Flavour Working with farmers and local community, Awani preserves the tropical taste of Bali with its high quality handcrafted jams and marmalades While Ambon in the Spice Islands produces nutmeg
fruity aroma that wafts from the kitchen. A small team
preserves, Indonesia isn’t traditionally known for bottling
of staff in black and white checked caps and aprons are
jams and marmalades. Nevertheless, a boutique industry
paring mangos on the patio, while inside the spotless
has flourished in Bali in recent years that caters to global
kitchen big pots of lime and fresh young ginger are
tastes by capturing the unique flavour of the tropics.
gently bubbling away on the stove. Only the ripest
Awani (Sanskrit for earth,) was inspired by the abundance of tropical fruit in Bali and has been producing jams and marmalades for eight years. To learn more about the process I visit their headquarters on a picturesque farm deep in the tropical forests of Tabanan. Stepping out of the car I am immediately seduced by the intoxicating
56 let’s eat!
tropical fruit, cane sugar, freshly squeezed lime juice, and in some cases pectin are used. Once cooked, the steaming, sticky fruit preserves are poured into glass jars, capped, sterilised in boiling water for 10 minutes then labelled ready to be dispatched. Of course some sampling is in order, and I find the Lime
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and Young Ginger Marmalade is wonderfully sharp, zesty
many employees coming from surrounding villages. All
and undeniably tropical, while the Tamarillo Jam is a
fruit scraps are composted and the company works with
revelation. “The secret to tamarillo is getting it perfectly
a local recycling initiative.
ripe, which allows the flavours to fully develop,”” says Awani founder, Yip. The taste is tangy, complex and not overly sweet – a little like plum, but with more depth. The Awani range includes jams of Pink Guava, Mango and Pineapple as well as Tangerine Marmalade. Malaysian-born Yip explains that he had struggled to find tropical jam with a real fresh fruit flavour and saw an opportunity for a brand that “Showcased the quality of what is available in Bali, and what is doable.” He adds, “We are big enough to work with farmers and have
The air is crisp, fresh and crackling with the sound of cicadas as we take a stroll across the farm, passing neat rows of papaya trees, towering jackfruit trees bedecked in massive fruit, as well as cacao, coffee, rambutan and mangosteen trees. Tabanan was chosen due to its proximity to island farms, and the company works directly with farmers to ensure the freshest, ripest fruit, specifically sourced for taste and texture. Strawberries come from Bedugul, mangoes from Singaraja and citrus fruits from Kintamani.
some degree of influence, but small enough that every
Awani is stocked in delis, supermarkets, restaurants and
piece of fruit is hand picked and sorted. The result is a
hotel kitchens across the island, and recently expanded
consistency of quality, with fruit cooked in small batches
to the international market, including prestigious Harvey
on the stove top for less than 30 minutes which keeps
Nichols and Selfridges & Co in the UK. Alison
flavours intact. The team numbers less than 20, with
www.awani.com
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let’s eat! 57
must try
Aquafresca Tea
A Labour of Love Sprout's Nourishment Bowl
58 let’s eat!
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Familiar and comfortable, Sprout is a popular newcomer on the Canggu food scene serving a freshly made and wholesome menu that will please children and grownups alike.
Familiar and comfortable, Sprout is a popular newcomer
baked daily as I am about to find out. Sharing the same
on the Canggu food scene serving a freshly made and
building with an early learning centre means that Sprout
wholesome menu that will please children and grown-
also has an extensive kids menu as well as a kids table,
ups alike.
complete with a drawing wall.
A large cheerful bird mural is the first thing that I notice
I start my late breakfast with Aquafresca Tea, a tisane
when I arrive at Sprout. Underneath the mural, a cosy
made with watermelon and rosemary. The infusion
seating area with fluffy pillows and rustic wooden table
creates a subtle pleasing aroma and warms the body.
immediately sets the notion that I have chosen the right
Buckwheat Pancakes come next, a healthier option
place to work and eat today. Placing my laptop and
than regular pancakes, this triple stack is dusted with
gadgets on the table, I flip through the menu. “We have
cinnamon, sliced banana and home-made vanilla
home-baked muffin of the day if you are interested,”
semifreddo that tastes divine.
offers the waiter. Muffins are just one of the things
let’s eat! 59
A few hours and several e-mails later, I decide to have a late lunch and order the Grazing Board. Topped with home-baked soft flatbread, avocado hummus, savoury grilled haloumi and crisply thin tomato chips, it is rustic and fulfilling. Taking a recommendation from the kind waiter I also order a Black Elixir. The black colour comes from an activated charcoal, odourless and tasteless but said to do wonders for flushing out toxins from the body. A squeeze of lime manages to make the drink taste refreshing. Sprout’s Nourishment Bowl is my last dish of the day. A fulfilling bowl of warm quinoa and brown rice tossed with roasted pumpkin, avocado, kale and sunflower seeds with a sesame, almond and miso dressing. It is as delicious as it is healthy. Co-founded by an experienced chef who is passionate about nutrition and uses a holistic approach to serve fresh, made-from-scratch wholesome food for the body and soul, it is no wonder that there is so much detail and effort applied to every dish. Packing my laptop, I leave Sprout with every intention to come back soon. Eve
Sprout I Jalan Raya Semat 18A Canggu I P +62 812 3665 3165
60 let’s eat!
50 I Open 7am-5pm
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Your best guide to have the unforgettable culinary journey in Bali.
Let’s eat! Magazine now available at Books & Beyond.
Medan • Palembang • Jakarta • Bandung • Bali Balikpapan • Makassar • Manado
hungerlust
62 let’s eat!
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Few places in the world can match the allure of the fabled temples of Angkor in Cambodia. While visitors pass their days exploring the relics of this ancient city, evenings are spent strolling along the riverside and the charismatic old market district of Siem Reap. Dining options range from restaurants serving traditional Khmer cuisine and European fare, to street side stalls selling noodles and crispy fried crickets. let’s eat! 63
http://insideasiatravel.com
R
ising from the jungle, the majestic city of Angkor was once the epicentre of the mighty Khmer civilization that ruled over most of south east Asia. Abandoned in the 1400’s, the jungle reclaimed
the city – vine by vine, leaf by leaf and it lay crumbling and forgotten until the 1860’s. Excavation revealed a fantastical site of massive carved stone faces staring out from lofty peaks, temples wrapped in thick vines, and roots of giant fig trees clinging to ancient walls. Hundreds of thousands of tourists visit the temples every year, yet despite the crowds, watching the sun creep up behind the legendary temple of Angkor Wat is one of the most magical experiences I have ever had, and a life long dream come true. When I first visited 13 years ago Siem Reap was still sleepy. These days it’s a bustling tourist centre with plenty of restaurants and bars to choose from. Ridiculously cheap alcohol means much of the action is set around ‘pub street’ a backpacker’s heaven of cheap cocktails, Angkor beer and garishly coloured stalls selling fresh fruit juices. Stepping away from the neon-hued madness of ‘pub street’, atmospheric lane ways lead to charismatic Khmer restaurants, traditional Italian
64 let’s eat!
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http://fiuzu.com
eateries such as the renowned il Forno, and the divine Miss Wong, a tribute to Shanghai of the 30’s with its sumptuous red décor, fabulous
Those wishing to learn more about Cambodian cuisine can
martinis and elderflower infused gin and tonics.
join the ‘Cooks in Tuk-Tuks’ culinary adventure, or an evening
For those looking to eat local style, roadside vendors are plentiful. Much like Bali, stalls are often attached to the side of motorbikes, while permanent restaurants spill on to the sidewalk and sell typical Khmer food like sausages, noodle soup and stir fry. Bai sach chrouk is a favourite, with thinly sliced pork marinated in coconut milk and slow grilled over warm coals to bring out its natural sweetness. While most Cambodians eat fairly simple stir fry, omelettes and rice at home, ceremonial occasions call for dishes such as amok, a fragrant fish mousse cooked in banana leaf. Traditional Cambodian cuisine is based on a spice paste which is called “kroeung,” with ingredients like cloves, cinnamon, star anise, nutmeg, cardamom, turmeric, ginger, shallots, kaffir lime and kapi – a fermented prawn paste.
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‘Street Food Tour’ which hits markets and food stalls that you'd never visit on your own (www.therivergarden.info). And yes, it’s true, they do eat lizards, snakes, locusts and crickets in Cambodia, mostly a legacy of the famine during the Khmer Rouge years. Before you cringe and recoil in disgust, bugs and reptiles are actually high in protein and by all reports quite tasty. I can’t speak from first hand experience, but apparently tarantulas taste like chicken, while snake skewers taste like fish, and I am guessing that crickets are just like a crispy tempura. Red tree ants are particularly good, lending a sour taste to dishes and are best stir fried with thinly spiced beef, ginger, lemongrass, holy basil and plenty of chilli. Siem Reap also provides many opportunities to support the nations road to recovery following years of social, economic and political upheaval. Many restaurants are non profit and or actively involved in community projects that empower the disadvantaged. Peace Café, New Leaf Book Café, Green Star and Sala Bai Hotel School are just a few. Alison
let’s eat! 65
food talk
talking
Balinese Cuisine spice
bumbu
suckling pig
babi guling
duck
bēbēk
spicy
pedas
Eating Out = Makan di Luar pronunciation The rule of thumb is that Indonesian is pronounced as it is written. a
as in ‘part’
c
as in ‘chair’
ē/e
as in ‘get’ or ‘may’
g
as in ‘goal’
i
as in ‘doing’
ua
as in ‘wa’
o
as in ‘dog’
ny
as in ‘canyon’
u
as in ‘you’
talking food
rice with various nasi campur side dishes
food words satay satē galangal lengkuas shallot bawang mērah garlic bawang putih ginger jahē kaffir lime
jeruk limau
nutmeg pala palm sugar
gula kelapa
fish paste
terasi
coriander ketumbar bird's eye chili
cabe rawit
banana leave
daun pisang
steam
kukus
Can I have one more portion?
Bisa saya tambah satu porsi lagi?
Don't make it spicy, please
Tolong, jangan pedas
Do you have a non-smoking area?
Ada tempat bēbas asap rokok?
I am allergic to....
Saya alergi...
I prefer to sit outdoors
Saya ingin duduk di luar
Can I take it home?
Boleh tolong dibungkus?
I’d like...
Saya mau...
to eat
memakan
to share
membagi
to buy
membeli
more
lagi
less
lebih sedikit
three dozens
tiga lusin
one crate
satu kerat
two bottles
dua botol
that one
yang itu
this one
yang ini
This is...
Ini...
salty asin pungent
tajam
tasty gurih sweet manis crispy garing
grill panggang
66 let’s eat!
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e
n
EAT T
e
s
l
d
-
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o t c e ir
ry
map
and d
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BALI 68 let’s eat!
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SEMINYAK KUTA
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Ubud Sanur 70 let’s eat!
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jimbaran
Nusadua
Directory.
Sanur, Ubud
Art Kafe
Bamboo Bar & Lounge
D’Star Bar & Resto
Live acoustic music, eclectic art, retro decor and a global menu provide the ingredients for Art Kafe, an atmospheric eatery on Monkey Forest.
The newly expanded Bamboo Bar & Lounge provides a tranquil setting for lazy afternoons accompanied by tasty snacks, wood fired pizza and fruity cocktails right on the beach in Sanur.
A whimsical restaurant with relaxed, fun and family-friendly attitude and signature Balinese and barbeque dishes, set in a lush and artistic compound.
Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud
Prama Sanur Beach Bali, Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur | P +62 361 288 011
Jl. Raya Mas Ubud P +62 361 849 3601
Hujan Locale
Living Food Lab
Locavore
Providing a twist on traditional Indonesian food, Hujan Locale also serves a combination of dishes typically found in the backstreet kitchens of south east Asia, and focuses on slow grassroots cooking.
An experiment in conscious eating, Living Food Lab also celebrates the notion of food as an art form, with meals beautifully served on wicker plates lines with ornamentallycut banana leafs.
Winner of the 2014 Traveller’s Choice award for ‘Best Fine Dining in Indonesia,’ Locavore uses local ingredients to create beautifully presented, imaginative, modern European cuisine.
Jl. Sri Wedari No. 5, Ubud P +62 361 849 3092
Jl. Monkey Forest 88x, Ubud
Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud P +62 361 977 733
Petani Restaurant at Alaya Ubud
Tsavo Lion Restaurant
Yanies Restaurant
A casual dining venue with seating for up to 120 guests, Petani celebrates the diverse flavours of the Indonesian archipelago. Serving buffet breakfast and home-style regional cuisine for lunch and dinner.
With its African-inspired décor and distinctive fine dining menu created by an award-winning chef, Tsavo provides a unique experience.
All-day dining offering Indonesian, Japanese, Asian and Western specialties, including a separate outdoor barbecue and grill station that sizzles with sumptuous made-to-order alfresco fare.
Jl. Hanoman, Ubud
Bali Safari & Marine Park Jalan By Pass Ida Bagus Mantra Km. 19,8 Gianyar
Ubud Adventure Centre Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud P +62 361 898 9777
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Seminyak, Canggu
Best of Bali
Cafe Cous Cous
Crab Bar
An all-encompassing experience, from New York-style steakhouse, to Japanese robatayaki, and VIP roof top bar.
Serving up delightfully fresh and healthy food including Middle Eastern specialties and generous all day breakfasts.
Casual and raucous, this restaurant definitely lives up to its cheerful tagline ‘Hot Crab, Cold Beer’.
Jl. Raya Petitenget No 27C P +62 361 474 1122
Jl Bumbak | P +62 361 750 998
Jl. BatuBelig 106 P +62 361 849 9316
Desa Seni, A Village Resort
Angelita Tea Salon and Patisserie
Mantra
One of the most unique experiences in Bali with its drop-in yoga classes and flourishing organic gardens that provide the freshest fruit, vegetables and herbs for the restaurant.
A define quality of french patisserie that also serving mouthwatering savoury dishes in a classic decorated concept on the busy street of kerobokan. Truly a hidden gem.
Modern Australian cuisine made with local ingredients and imbued with Asian flavour, including exotic Indonesian herbs and spices.
P +62 361 844 6392
Jl Raya Kerobokan no 10A Banjar Taman Kerobokan Bali +62361 7473138 / +6281 238 974 888
Jalan Petitenget 77X P +62 361 473 7681
Primo Bali
Smokehouse BBQ
The Parlour
An artisan chocolate factory with a mission to make a world a better place through good chocolate.
Treat yourself to a carnivore’s dream with all the trappings! Thursday evenings at Anantara.
Funky retro design meets a tasty menu of eastern and western-style comfort food in the heart of Petitenget.
Jl. Bumbak 130X Banjar Anyar Kelod – Kerobokan P +62 361 743 3853
Wild Orchid Restaurant at Anantara, Seminyak Bali Resort &Spa P +62 361 737 773
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 15XX P +62 361 473 4654
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Kuta and North Bali, Nusa Dua
Bali Asli
Camilla Mozzarella Bali
Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub
Promoting Balinese cuisine and culture, Bali Asli works with the local community by supporting those who fish, farm and forage in the nearby fields, ocean and jungle.
Experience a delectable range of artisan cheese combining ancient recipes from southern Italy with local dairy products.
Authentically designed with antique Irish paraphernalia and souvenirs, Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub is the perfect place to have a great time in the heart of Kuta.
Jl. Glumpang, Amlapura, Karangasem P +62 8289 703 0098
Jl. Sunset Road 1X Seminyak
Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Poppies II 7c, Kuta | P +62 361 752 403
Lembongan Beach Club
Paradise Dynasty
Sembilan
A gourmet dining experience on the small sunny island of Lembongan, with a beachside menu consisting of classic and fusion dishes.
Amazing signature dumplings and Northern Chinese cuisine served in elegant surrounds.
A definite modern Balinese dining venue, combining island culinary traditions with contemporary presentation.
Pantai Jungut Batu, Nusa Lembongan P +62 361 737 282
Beachwalk L1 #B-12, 12A, Jalan Pantai Kuta | P +62 361 8465 582
Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian | +62 361 762500
Tetaring at Kayumanis Nusa Dua
The Caffeine Coffee Shop
The Warung at Alila Villas Uluwatu
An elegant dining venue introducing guests to the authentic flavours of cuisine from around the Indonesian archipelago.
A warm and affordable place slightly hidden from the street, serving good strong coffee and more.
Fabulous Indonesian cuisine with sublime ocean views creating a one-of-a kind experience.
BTDC Area Nusa Dua P.O. Box 777 Nusa Dua P +62 361 770777
Jl. Legian Kaja No. 462 Kuta +62 361 750 998
Jl Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu P +62 361 848 2166
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Made in China Jl. Petitenget No.111X, Seminyak Bali 80361 P: 0361-5540610
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