BERLIN INSIGHTS
A FASHION CAPITAL IN THE MAKING A TREND REPORT BY LIGANOVA
JANUARY 2015
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BERLIN FASHION WEEK
In the past 10 years Berlin managed to establish itself as a city with a unique creative position in the world, a centre of attraction for young design and disrupting innovations. With Bread&Butter moving from Cologne to Berlin and the launch of a second major trade show with Premium Exhibitions, Berlin’s Fashion Week was launched. A decade later, numerous new trade shows and fashion forums have seen the light of the day. Berlin’s future as fashion capital has yet to be determined…
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CONTENT
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WHAT IS AT STAKE FOR BERLIN TODAY?
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION Insights from the ‘Berliner Mode Salon’ & the ‘Fashiontech’ Conference
— ‘Tech is the new Black’ – when Fashion meets Technology — Shareables & Digital Retail Trends 18 TRADE SHOW DIGEST 23 #BFW QUOTES
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WHAT IS AT STAKE FOR BERLIN TODAY? 4
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“ German fashion is grounded, rational, head-driven” Melissa Drier, Fashion Editor, Women’s Wear Daily
“ We have the talent, we’re young, we’ve only existed for a decade. We are currently professionalising to prepare for the next step” Anita Tillmann, CEO, Premium Exhibitions
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WHAT IS AT STAKE FOR BERLIN TODAY?
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Over
3��.��� Over
Fashion Week visitors
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businesses in Berlin is part of the creative sector
runway shows during Fashion Week
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Over 20.000 people work in the fashion industry
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billion €
Berlin’s fashion industry turnover Over 10% of the city’s cultural industry
fashion schools Over 1.000 students start a fashion related course each year
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WHAT IS AT STAKE FOR BERLIN TODAY?
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WHAT IS AT STAKE FOR BERLIN TODAY?
A STRONG DOMESTIC MARKET
NEW INSTITUTIONS & DESIGN FORUMS
The German market with its strong economy is the largest in Europe and one of the most significant in the world. Berlin Fashion Week has to strengthen its efforts towards its own community and designers have to look further into the German consumer and their preferences on a global scale.
New institutions and design forums have been created to further establish Berlin’s position as an international fashion city and to promote designers and creatives working in Germany.
STRUCTURAL NEEDS More infrastructure has to be generated to draw the international press and the buyers for global fashion warehouses to Berlin.
– ‘Berliner Mode Salon’ – German Fashion Design Council – ‘Fashiontech’ Conference
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INSIGHTS FROM THE ‘BERLINER MODE SALON’ AND THE ‘FASHIONTECH’ CONFERENCE
BERLIN INSIGHTS
A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION
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‘TECH IS THE NEW BLACK’ – WHEN FASHION MEETS TECHNOLOGY
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION ‘Tech is the new Black’
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Conferences and creative forums like ‘Fashiontech’ and the ‘Berliner Mode Salon’ have been launched in a cooperative effort between industry experts, key influencers, fashion designers and Germany’s innovative scene with the ambition to distinguish and to specialise Berlin’s fashion scene.
“ Wearables and electronics become more and more relevant in a fast paced world. The challenge is to permanently redevelop yourself”
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“ We hope to inspire both communites – fashion and IT, to work together”
BERLIN INSIGHTS
A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION ‘Tech is the new Black’
Anita Tillmann, CEO, Premium Exhibitions
Nadja Swarovski, Board Member, Swarovski
“ We have to see wearable tech as another form of craft and actually treat it as such” Cecilia Palmer, Web Developer & Fashion Designer
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION ‘Tech is the new Black’
Areas in which technology and fashion can interplay in the coming years WEARABLES – ENABLING TECHNOLOGY – MEDICAL USE Sensors can be integrated into the garments to collect the current health information of the consumer. For customers with major health issues like heart problems, diabetes or cholesterol, the sensors in the garments would directly alert health services via the mobile device in case of an emergency. – LIFESTYLE TECH Furthermore wearables such as intelligent accessories and sensor-enabled garments can improve the consumer’s lifestyle. Unlike external devices that interrupt the human action, wearables have the advantage to naturally extend the activity as they are activated with natural gestures.
VISUAL PROJECTURE Display technology combined with sensoring opens up many new possibilities in 3D visualisations. The new technology is currently only used in the architectural field, its use in fashion will provide the consumer with numerous new information about the product with the possibility to try on a product from an e-shop before purchase. CUSTOMIZED FASHION Biological experiments combined with technological innovations have made it possible for the medical industry to grow skin cells in labs. Transposed to fashion it means that in the future it will be possible to grow natural fabrics like leather, silk or cotton from the costumer’s very own skin cells.
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION ‘Tech is the new Black’
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Phoebe Hees – high tech garments & wearables reacting to human emotion
Trafopop – LED jackets for cyclists
SHAREABLES & DIGITAL RETAIL TRENDS
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION
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“ Images have the power to make or to break a brand” Mareike Nieberding, Journalist
“ German designers need to broaden their perspective to always have in mind how their collection will look on the runway, in a salon but also on a JPG.” Ruth Chapman, CEO, matchesfashion.com
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION Shareables & Digital Retail Trends
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BERLIN INSIGHTS
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION Shareables & Digital Retail Trends
THE POWER OF THE IMAGE
2D VISUAL MERCHANDISING
In the digital age, images have the power to make or to break a brand. They enable brands to share their broad universe and product world with a huge base of consumers in an instant and with very low costs.
Shareability also increases in importance at the point-of-sale. Digital visual merchandising solutions, such as 2D flat-lays, square product presentations and cross-merchandising are more and more integrated in bricks and mortar solutions.
SHARING IS KEY Creating images with a high sharing value becomes more and more relevant with the rise of digital interaction channels. But the question whether the product is shareable or not does not only come up once it is photographed, it now arises in the design process of the product itself, as it is an important element of its future success in sales.
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION Shareables & Digital Retail Trends
INSTAGRAM: FASHION IN THE SECOND DIMENSION — The most instagrammed place in 2015 was a shopping mall in Taiwan Instagram related apps like liketoknow.it or — shopstyle.com now make it possible to identify and to shop (almost) any item seen on the social media channel Instagram grew from a 150 million user base — to 300 million within only one year — Instagram has the highest interaction rate out of the main social media channels — 80% of the users are under 35 years old
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A NEW APPROACH TO FASHION Shareables & Digital Retail Trends
EXAMPLE: CHANEL — Chanel appeared on Instagram in October 2014 and managed to gain a follower base of 1.2 million by only posting one picture. — Within only 4 months the brand reached a follower base of 2.5 million users. — This equates to more than double the coverage the brand would get from Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle altogether.
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EVERY SEASON OVER 300.000 VISITORS MAKE THE TRIP TO BERLIN TO DISCOVER THE CITY’S UNIQUE AND DIVERSE SET OF TRADE SHOWS. WE CAPTURED THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THIS SEASON’S PREMIUM, PANORAMA, BRIGHT AND SEEK.
BERLIN INSIGHTS
TRADE SHOW DIGEST
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PREMIUM Premium is Berlin’s most diverse trade show featuring established high fashion brands like Karl Lagerfeld, up-andcoming international labels and Berlin classics like Lala Berlin.
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TRADE SHOW DIGEST
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PANORAMA With 50.000 unique visitors from 96 nations, Panorama is without a doubt Berlin’s most significant trade show in numbers. Located on the fringes of town in the humongous trade district, Panorama showcased a set of confirmed and new brands in 10 exhibition halls.
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TRADE SHOW DIGEST
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SEEK Seek definitely made a huge impression this year with a brand new set-up in its new location at Arena Berlin. If you’re looking for cool and edgy contemporary brands, Seek is worth a stop. Seek also hosted Berlin’s first #Fashiontech conference – a forum for fashion designers and the tech scene about wearable technology.
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TRADE SHOW DIGEST
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BRIGHT The trade show where streetwear is at its best. Bright is one of Berlin’s most disrupting trade events. The small format is ideal to interact with new brands and streetstyle classics.
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TRADE SHOW DIGEST
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#BFW QUOTES
“ How can we make a fashion capital out of Berlin?! – The key is to impress” Christiane Arp, Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Germany
“ There’s talent, there’s purchasing power, the problem is too much humility” Nadja Swarovski, Board Member, Swarovski
“ There needs to be more confidence in German brands, whilst German brands need to get a more international perspective and to look at the global consumer” Ruth Chapman, CEO, matchesfashion.com
“ Berlin needs courage, energy, more courage” Melissa Drier, Fashion Editor, Women’s Wear Daily
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BYE BYE BERLIN! SEE YOU THIS SUMMER!