MAY 2019
Capturing
Costa rica
LIGHTHOUSE POINT TRAVELERS DISCOVER pura vida IN PARADISE.
Summer Adventures 36 IDEAS FOR YOUR SUMMER BUCKET LIST
Michelle “Bombchelle” Dalton (left) and Tom Wye (right)
Around the Point YOUR GUIDE TO LOCAL EVENTS THIS MONTH
City Beat
KEEP UP TO DATE ON NEIGHBORHOOD NEWS By Marie Puleo
Capturing
Pura Vida
Insider Excursions is Point Publishing’s newest travel startup venture. Insider Excursions brings groups of South Florida travelers, media professionals and business entrepreneurs on unforgettable trips to destinations around the globe. Then, we feature the adventures in our three magazines.
At the end of March, Insider Excursions brought a group of 12 people to the Pacific side of Costa Rica to the town of Quepos for a four-night, threeday adventure that included deep sea fishing, inshore fishing, swimming with a superpod of dolphin, zip lining above the rain forest canopy, horseback riding, waterfall jumping and a host of other nature-based excursions that both amazed and inspired us. We were in search of what Costa Ricans call “Pura Vida.” “Pura Vida” is a phrase one hears often in Costa Rica as a common greeting from local Ticos. But it is not merely a casual phrase — it communicates an entire philosophy...a way of life...a soul-felt emotion that runs deep in the hearts of Ticos. The phrase carries with it a sense of optimism, of gratitude for the simple things in life, of appreciation for nature and beauty. It is a no-stress, no-worries, be-happy expression. Ticos try passionately to share this “pure life” perspective with eager tourists who want a taste of Costa Rica’s magic. But like describing a foreign food, one can’t appreciate Pura Vida until it is experienced. It cannot be understood, it must be felt. Our travelers did experience Pura Vida…in many powerful moments, which we have compiled and photographed. These are our top dozen Pura Vida moments.
BY DANIELLE CHARBONNEAU & BARIS VON COBURG | PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSEPH YERKOVICH 62
LIGHTHOUSE POINT
| lhpmag.com
Tina Wye swims with yellowfin tuna and spinner dolphin 30 miles off Quepos, Costa Rica, March 28, 2019 MAY 2019 | LIGHTHOUSE POINT
63
2) When your eyes lock with a spinner dolphin as you swim among their enormous superpod.
1) When You Realize You’re Watching “Planet Earth” in Real Life
It is almost impossible to leave Costa Rica without an expanded appreciation for the majestic mystery inherent in nature. In the morning, the rainforest comes alive as the sun rises, loud with the sounds of exotic birds, howler monkeys, wind crackling leaves and the striking pitch of cicadas as their song crescendos from tree, to tree like a giant tidal wave of vibration approaching your ears — nature’s alarm clock. As one paces through the rainforest, one admires each enchanting detail: the twisted density of the trees; the sleepy smile of a sloth; the playfulness of a gang of white-faced monkeys swinging high on the canopy; the way the Jesus Christ lizard runs frantically on top of a babbling creek. At sea, how the pods of spinner dolphin dance and dive as a massive school of yellowfin tuna swim beneath for protection from predators. Overhead, how the Frigate birds fly just above the ocean horizon, too heavy to land on the water so soaring closely above, patiently waiting to steal a flying bait fish escaped from the grip of a bigger fish. The funny-faced rooster fish with their squashed noses; the majestic sailfish, cruising with their sails above the water like translucent floating rainbows; the sea turtle bobbing at the surface and the graceful rays gliding atop. One can feel a rhythm and sense of interconnectedness to it all — how nature all works together as one vast ecosystem, each tiny part important to the whole. Costa Rican nature guides are quick to point out each species’ part in the chain. Witnessing this interconnectedness makes one wonder what orders it all. Be it the laws of science, evolution, mother nature, or some creative genius, regardless, the system is undeniably awe inspiring. Being in Costa Rica is, as one traveler put it, “like watching ‘Planet Earth’ in real life.”
64
LIGHTHOUSE POINT
| lhpmag.com
ABOVE Victor and Krista Schaefer admire a pod of dolphin from approximately 20 yards away. OPPOSITE TOP
Our group of happy travelers dining at our Air BnB villa where a private chef prepared a feast. OPPOSITE BOTTOM Two
dolphin play off the side of our chartered fishing boat.
The sun was burning hot and the salty ocean air was crisp as our crew cruised approximately 50 nautical miles offshore from Marina Pez Vela in search of dolphins and tuna. The big blue Pacific off the coast of Central America is one of the few places in the world where one can find what is called a “superpod” — hundreds, sometimes thousands, of dolphins of multiple species (including the common, spotted and spinner), all congregate together as if having one giant ocean party. In the distance we could begin to make out the white splashes of the playful superpod ahead. As we got closer, we could see hundreds and we knew that what was visible was only a small fraction of the enormous superpod below. Most impressive to behold amongst were the spinner dolphins. Known as the “acrobats of the ocean” the spinner dolphins launch themselves vertically upward while thrusting their bodies into a rapid rotation like a ballerina, spinning several times before crashing back into the water. Their acrobatic prowess makes them fascinating to watch. Scientists aren’t exactly sure why the spinners spin, but tend to agree the dolphins do it for play, for showing off to potential mates and for cleaning off parasites. While the spinners spun, groups of common dolphin came to our boat to dive playfully in and out of our wake. We scanned our perimeter. There were dolphins ahead, dolphins behind, and dolphins to our sides. We were surrounded. While watching these dolphins from the boat was mesmerizing, it could not compare with the experience of actually swimming with them. We prepared ourselves — tightening our masks and testing our snorkels, then huddled at the
back of the boat. Armel, our experienced Costa Rican captain, steered the boat about 40 yards in front of the superpod’s moving path. When the time was right, he signaled us swimmers to drop into the water. We entered as quietly as possible as not to spook the dolphins and directed our eyes and ears underwater. Immediately we could hear the pod converse. Whistles, squeaks, squeals, clicks and chirps came echoing from the pod. The dolphins communicate and navigate using echolocation. Within seconds of hearing their chatter the dolphins were underneath us. Hundreds. Below them, enormous schools of yellowfin tuna. The experience was so dreamy and surreal it was hard to even comprehend it was actually happening. We were living in a National Geographic moment. We repeated this dance multiple times, racing the boat out front of the pod, then dropping into the water to witness the pod go by. With each drop, the dolphins seemed to grow more comfortable around us, and more curious. On our last swim, several dolphins approached us, looking us straight in the eyes, a mere three-armslengths away. Pura vida.
3) When you swim to a hidden beach from a boat to find an adorable adult sloth in full view, hanging from a tree by the sand.
On the way back inland from our day spent swimming with dolphins and fishing inshore for rooster fish, Captain Armel anchored our boat off a small cove with a picturesque beach called Biesanz Beach, known as a good snorkeling spot. Our skin dry and crusted with salt water, hot from the blaring sun, we eagerly jumped into the refreshing water for a short swim to shore where locals sold fresh pineapple and coconuts, artisan jewelry and cold Imperial, one of Costa Rica’s local beers. When we reached the sand, a local guide approached us smiling, asking if we wanted to see a sloth. Of course we did. Sloths are like the golden ticket of Costa Rica —
66
LIGHTHOUSE POINT
| lhpmag.com
TOP LEFT
A sloth in Manuel Antonio National Park. TOP MIDDLE
Michelle “Bombchelle” Dalton. TOP RIGHT Victor and Krista Schaefer. BOTTOM LEFT
the most sought-after sighting in the rainforest. The guide led the way to a palm tree bordering the beach. There, hanging in full sight, low on the tree, was an adult sloth who turned her head to expose her sleepy smile. Rarely do sloths venture so low to the ground. We were lucky to spot her so exposed to our full admiration.
4) When you get to taste three delectable preparations of freshly-caught yellowtail tuna, which you brought in from your fishing trip just hours before.
After a long day of fishing and a stunning neon sunset over the marina, our group convened at Gabriella’s, a fine-dining restaurant owned by Mark Dalton, the father of one of our group members, John Dalton. Gabriella’s is an open-air restaurant in the center of Marina Pez Vela. Here, the chefs prepared our group’s prize catch — a
Tom Wye (middle) with fellow travelers.
BOTTOM RIGHT
A sailfish photographed by Joesph Yerkovich underwater
massive, 60-pound yellowfin tuna. The tuna was served three ways —two starter courses, and a main. Firstly, sashimi style: Thinly sliced tuna was served with soy and a nose-burning-hot wasabi. Then, a simply seared tuna steak, sliced and drizzled with olive oil and cracked black pepper, served with a house-made sweet and spicy chipotle glaze. Lastly, for the entrée course, a massive, 3-inch-thick tuna steak that had been marinated in soy, vodka, garlic, olive oil and cracked pepper before kissed with a quick sear on the edges, served rare in the center and plated with fresh vegetables and mashed potatoes. There is something supremely satisfying about eating your day’s catch, brought in straight from the marina, served only hours after the fish was swimming. Sharing the bounty we had earned together was a bonding experience.
5) When you catch the most giant sailfish you’ve caught in over two decades.
Adventure/underwater photographer Joseph Yerkovich said the sailfish our group caught on the first day was by far the biggest he had ever caught in his two decades of global fishing experience. A picture is worth a thousand words, so we’ll let his photo speak for itself (see magazine cover).
6) When you participate in an impromptu moonlight mediation session on a mountaintop platform with a yoga guru you met on the side of a dirt road.
After returning home from dinner our group was loitering in the driveway of our Air BnB villa, saying MAY 2019 | LIGHTHOUSE POINT
67
BELOW The river where our group of horseback riders took a dip and bathed under a waterfall. OPPOSITE TOP
our goodnights when a tall shirtless hippie with blond bohemian hair paced past us and asked casually, “You wanna come to moonlight yoga at the top of the hill?” Glancing up a narrow dirt road, we noticed tiki torches lighting a path as if beckoning us to take some epic journey. Fascinated by this hippie’s positive vibes and intrigued by the prospect of a starlit adventure, our group followed his spontaneous whim and followed the man, James Coravida, up the steep hill to a wooden platform on the edge of the mountaintop he said he had built for a future community he was founding. He pointed also to a half-finished structure he said would be the community’s greenhouse, then expounded on his vision to create a spiritual neighborhood of heartcentered yogis set on living a life unconfined by social norms and independent of capitalist consumerism. “It will be a movement,” he said. Though his impassioned ramble was rather incomprehensible (perhaps induced by the magic mushrooms he had been indulging in), something about his gusto engrossed us, compelling us all to settle crosslegged in a semi-circle at the edge of the platform. We shifted our gazes between the blanket of stars above, and valley’s city lights below. He guided us in a 20 minute meditation, his voice blurring with the sounds of nature surrounding us — crickets and birds, cicadas and frogs. “These are the kinds of magical things that happen in Costa Rica,” said Joe, laughing. Our group’s willingness to surrender to the moment and accompany a semi-cultish persona to a mountaintop was most certainly a Pura Vida venture.
7) When your horse starts galloping full stride as you ride through the forest after taking a refreshing dive from a cliff into a river.
On our first day in Costa Rica, five from our group were picked up at our villa and driven to a remote spot in mountainous rainforest terrain. We arrived at a stable where five stately horses stood ready for us and the trek ahead. Off then we went, in single column, down a steep and rocky path into the first frontier of the forest. The rugged terrain was a good indicator for the adventurous journey ahead. Up and down we trekked, heading deeper into the Costa Rican woods. When we reached our first stop we could only continue on foot, so our guide tied the horses to a side fence and onward we continued. We
68
LIGHTHOUSE POINT
| lhpmag.com
A live photo shoot aboard Tuna Time with Pelagic Gear model Michelle “Bombchelle” Dalton.
OPPOSITE BOTTOM A white
faced monkey and a macaw, both seen by our group on our last day in Costa Rica near Manuel Antonio National Park.
hiked down a mountainside trail until we came upon a aqua green river. With steep cliffs greeting us on either side, it was a sight to behold. There was clear erosion on the cliff walls, showing the high difference in water levels between Costa Rica’s wet season and dry season. With the combined exertion of hiking and humidity, the freshwater from the river was a wonderful relief. We climbed up onto a small cliff from which we jumped, the adrenaline from the fall as equally breathtaking as the cool water below. We bathed under a nearby waterfall before making the hike back to our horses. Mounting our saddles, the guide warned us our horses would quicken their step on the way back to the stables, eager to reach their food and water. Having gained some confidence, one of our group’s first-time riders Baris welcomed the speed. He kicked the horse’s sides, sending his horse into a startling and exhilarating full gallop. Baris hollered joyously, galloping rapidly into the distance like a rogue cowboy.
Victor followed suit, kicking his horse, which responded with equal speed, racing Baris’ horse toward the stables. Victor, too, hollered with enthusiasm. The sound of their pure joy echoed in the valley as we watched them ride off, the forest goldenly ablaze as the sun set. “It was one of those moments you just never forget,” said Baris.
8) When you overcome your fear of heights while soaring over the rainforest canopy on one of Latin America’s longest zip lines
Boasting some of the highest and longest zip lines in all of Latin America, zip lining in Costa Rica is an experience not to be missed. Soaring high above the jungle canopy, zip lining combines speed and adrenaline with beautiful unobstructed views of the jungle and mountain ranges, providing a panoramic view of the land unrivaled by any other activity. With various heights, the El Santuario Canopy Adventure Tour starts off slow and low, then gradually builds up to longer and higher lines. This setup was beneficial to one member of our group whose fear of heights made his body quiver. He was able to get used to the height slowly and gradually. Plus, the varying platforms offered a diversity of views — from inside the jungle, to flying high and far above it. One of the longest lines in the park was so long it was impossible to see the other side. You could watch the person as they disappeared into the canopy, then listen as the sound of the wire buzzed long after they were out of sight, signaling they had not yet reached the end. The canopy tour has over 3.6 kilometers of total zip line
length on 10 lines and 14 tree platforms.
9) When you witness your Lighthouse Point neighbors bond while participating in a professional photoshoot while wrestling a giant tuna on a boat in the middle of the Pacific.
One of our group’s goals for the trip was to capture a worthy shot for the cover of Lighthouse Point magazine. On our group’s third day of fishing, we did just that. Michelle “Bombchelle” Dalton, a professional fish angler, Pelagic Gear model and social media influencer from
Lighthouse Point wrestled a 60-pound tuna aboard our boat (appropriately named “Tuna Time”). Our photographer Joseph Yerkovich and publisher Richard Rosser worked to capture the scene aboard, conducting the live shoot at the back of the boat. Standing by was Tom Wye, one of the co-founders of FishAngler, our trip’s presenting sponsor. FishAngler is a revolutionary new fishing app started by Tom and his wife Jane as a passion project after retiring from their long careers in data technology. The app is a sophisticated social network of global anglers which uses an angler’s geolocation and data feeds from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) and worldwide weather to create a detailed logbook of catches. The app has over 300,000 users in the U.S., Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa and Indonesia. Between the Wyes, Michelle “Bombchelle” Dalton, Costa Rican captain Armel and underwater photographer Joe, the crew aboard Tuna Time were well paired to swap stories and ideas pertinent to the sports fishing industry. Publisher Richard said watching the bonds form and shooting a cover aboard Tuna Time was one of his most memorable Pura Vida moments.
10) When you watch a charismatic gang of white-faced monkeys guzzle a stolen gatorade in a national park and realize why Costa Rica aims to be the most environmentally progressive country in the world.
On a morning hike in Manuel Antonio National Park — one of Costa Rica’s most sought after destinations for spotting wildlife and enjoying idyllic beaches — our group watched a gang of boisterous white faced monkeys play in the canopy. As each member of our group fractured our attention between about a dozen different monkeys and frantically snapped pictures, one member of our group spotted a mother and baby MAY 2019 | LIGHTHOUSE POINT
69
swiping a bottle of red gatorade off the ground and carrying it into a tree. “Hey, there’s a monkey drinking gatorade,” he hollered, pointing and laughing. The mother monkey toyed with the bottle for a few moments before managing to open it, then the baby helped prop the bottle up in the mother’s mouth, helping her to guzzle it faster than a frat boy drinks beer on Spring Break. We laughed, the scene rather hysterical, before realizing the debacle was sad. We were told by a guide earlier in the trip that the monkeys are getting addicted to sugar. A new ordinance in Costa Rica will reportedly prohibit restaurants from
FishAngler is a revolutionary new
fishing app started by Lighthouse Point’s Tom and Jane Wye as a passion project after retiring from their long careers in data technology. The app is a sophisticated social network of global anglers which uses an angler’s geolocation and data feeds from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) and worldwide weather to create a detailed logbook of catches. The app has over 300,000 users in the U.S., Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa and Indonesia.
ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT Baris
von Coburg, Danielle Charbonneau, Aleka Nikolaidis, Richard Rosser, John Dalton, Michelle “Bombchelle” Dalton (professional angler, social media influencer and Pelagic Gear model); Tom Wye, Tina Wye, Jane Wye (Tom and Jane Wye are the founders of FishAngler); Krista and Victor Schaefer (of Alarm Grid and Gold Aviation respectively) BELOW Tina Wye, Tom Wye, Michelle and John Dalton
putting sugar packets on the tables as the monkeys steal them and have developed an unhealthy craving. For the vast majority of our trip we witnessed nature mostly unadulterated. This incident was one of the first we saw that showed the not-so-pleasant clash between nature and humans. Knowing the value of their wildlife and natural resources, Costa Ricans are passionate about conservation efforts. In fact, Costa Rica is a multiyear recipient of the Happy Planet Index’s number one ranking for the happiest and most sustainable country on Earth. The country has been one of the most progressive countries in the world when it comes to protecting the environment. Costa Rica’s president, 38-year-old former journalist Carlos Alvarado, announced in 2018 his plan to make the country the first carbon-neutral nation in the world by 2021. The country’s green values are even evident in San Jose’s international airport, which had five different cans for recyclable products in each eatery. Impressive.
11) When three colorful macaws fly in front of your table as you eat brunch from a panoramic hillside overlooking the ocean
On our final day in Costa Rica, our group convened for brunch at the La Mariposa hotel, which sits on a hill overlooking the beaches of Manuel Antonio national park. The views of the vast ocean were spectacular, as was the fresh fruit, made-to-order omelets and frozen cocktails. As we admired the view, three colorful macaws flew across the patio, landing in a palm tree at the edge of the patio. Their colorful bodies perched in clear view seemed the perfect end to an enchanting trip.
12) When you hug your fellow travelers goodbye knowing you made new friendships & unforgettable memories. 70
LIGHTHOUSE POINT
| lhpmag.com