Linen Directions Spring-Summer 2012
Linen Directions Connected Spring Summer 2012
visualize
visualize
Frédéric Rey
Calvin Klein
Oleg Ivanov, Fotolia
Hermès
Catherine Chanteloube, © Etienne Lizambard : Ondulations
Julie Cerise
1
2, 6, 7
3
4
5
verso
Linen Directions Connected Spring Summer 2012
visualize
3
2
4
5
6
1
luminous oxygen trans-lucid innovative visionary serene simple ergo-naut A fresh breeze of simplicity blows through the season and rhythms slow down. Sobriety joins the essential in a quest for High Definition Purism. A milky palette ranging from optical white to filtered pastels: very pale pink in variations of skintone beiges, grayish light blue and green and a shadowy dark blue. Textures in movement, crisscrossing, undulating, pleated, puffed into micro-motifs and enlivened by precious shiny or silvery vibrations. Burn-out transparency. Invisible voiles and ultra-light gauzes in pure linen. Fine double-face linen jersey and fluid linenviscose jersey. Stiff, malleable linen/steel. Smooth surfaces and glazed, porcelain-like aspects. Ecological enzyme-aided bleaching. Sculptural, organic and fissured with electroshocks of light, the silhouette seems composed of unexpected volumes. VISUALIZING THE INVISIBLE.
Un air de simplicité souffle sur la saison, les rythmes sont ralentis. La sobriété rejoint l’essentiel vers un purisme Haute Définition. Gamme laiteuse du blanc optique aux pastels filtrés : rose très pâle en variations de beiges épiderme, vert et bleu clair grisés, le bleu foncé comme une ombre. Textures en mouvement, croisées, ondulées, plissées, gonflées dans des micro-motifs et rehaussées par des vibrations précieuses brillantes ou argentées. Transparences dévorées. Voiles invisibles et gazes ultra légères en pur lin. Finesse du jersey lin double face, fluidité du jersey en lin-viscose. Raideur malléable du lin et acier. Surfaces lisses, aspects porcelaine et glacés. Blanchiment enzymatique écologique. Sculpturale, organique, fissurée d’électrochocs lumière, la silhouette laisse émerger des volumes imprévus.
Spira un’aria di semplicità, i ritmi sono rallentati. Essenzialità e sobrietà sono i limiti di un’alta definizione. Gamma lattiginosa dal bianco ottico ai pastelli filtrati: rosa pallidissimo e variazioni di beige epidermici, verde e azzurro grigiato, un blu scuro come ombra. Textures mosse, intrecciate, ondulate, plissé, rigonfiate in micro motivi e con preziose vibrazioni lucide o argentate. Trasparenze dévoré. Voiles invisibili e garze ultraleggere in puro lino. La finezza del jersey di lino double face, la fluidità del jersey in lino e viscosa. La rigidità malleabile del lino e acciaio. Superfici lisce, porcellanate, glacé. Candeggio enzimatico ecologico. La silhouette è studiata, quasi una scultura mossa da tagli di luce che fanno emergere volumi imprevisti. VISUALIZZARE L’INVISIBILE.
7
Cool Gray 3
14-4201 TC
Optic White
11-0601 TC
7530 C
437 C
16-0806 TC
17-1510 TC
5235 C
13-3406 TC
428 C
14-4106 TC
7544 C
15-4105 TC
Warm Gray 9 C
18-1110 TC
VISUALISER L’INVISIBLE. 426 C
19-4013 TC
Linen Directions Connected Spring Summer 2012
Socialize
socialize
Dimitri Xenakis
Etro
Sportmax
Cie Contrepoint, © Delphine Perrin
Laurent Moynat
Frédéric Rey
5
6, 7
8
9
verso
du monde celte.
4
Une interprétation des arbres à vœu
Nappe pour un pique-nique sans OGM.
Nature humaine 2 3
Musée d’Art Moderne, Sao Paulo 2010
Julie Cerise 2
Béatrice Saurel & Michel Racine
Aude Franjou 1
Linen Directions Connected Spring Summer 2012
Socialize
2
4
3
5
1
spontaneous tactile crispy 6
7
tasty fibrous techno-craft natural 8
A global “good mood” encouraging the pleasure of sharing through our senses of touch, taste and smell. Raw resources favoring fair “0” impact development. Natural materials reuniting body and sensuality. The palette is muted by the sun: ecru, fresh acidic greens, corn yellow, lavender and caramel, accompanied by a dense, earthy brown. Irregular textures, handcrafted relief, linen/raw silk and linen/ slubbed cotton blends, in alternating yarn counts and effects. Precious greige fabrics in toneon-tone yarn dyes. “Tablecloth” checks and stripes. Garter stitch knits and linen/cotton fleece using space dyed yarns. Stonewashed effects, gradated prints and natural dyes. Crispy, sturdy hands, paper-like hands and washed and softened hands. The fresh, relaxed silhouette is original by its combination of textures and patterns but remains simple and practical with a careful eye for detail. SOCIALIZING WITH TASTE.
Un “good mood“ global qui invite au plaisir du partage par le biais de nos sens, grâce au toucher, au goût, à l’odorat. Les ressources premières favorisent un développement équitable à impact « 0 ». Les matières naturelles réconcilient corps et sensualité. La gamme est assourdie par le soleil: écru, verts acidulés et frais, jaune blé, lavande et caramel, accompagnés par un brun tellurique et dense. Textures irrégulières, reliefs artisanaux, mélanges lin-soie sauvage, lin-coton flammé en alternance de titrages et d’effets. Tissus grèges précieux, teints en fil ton-sur-ton. Rayures et carreaux « nappe ». Maille mousse et molleton lin-coton avec fils imprimés « space dyed ». Effets « stoned » et impressions en dégradé, teintures végétales. Toucher costaud et croustillant, toucher papier, toucher lavé et adouci. Fraîche et relax, la silhouette, originale dans la combinaison de textures et de dessins, reste simple et pratique avec une attention particulière aux détails. SOCIALISER AVEC GOÛT.
Un “good mood” globale che invita al piacere della condivisione attraverso i nostri sensi, grazie al tatto, al gusto e all’olfatto. Si favorisce lo sviluppo sostenibile a impatto zero. Le materie naturali riconciliano corpo e sensualità. 617 C
La gamma è attenuata dal sole: ecru, verdi aciduli e freschi, giallo grano, lavanda e caramello, accompagnati da un denso marrone terra. Texture irregolari, rilievi artigianali, mix lino-seta grezza, lino-cotone fiammato con alternanze di titoli e di effetti. Grezzi preziosi, tinti in filo tono su tono. Righe e quadri “tovaglia”. Maglia spugna e felpa in lino e cotone con fili space dyed. Effetto “stoned” e stampe sfumate, tinture vegetali. Mani corpose e croccanti, tatto “carta” o mani “lavate” e ammorbidite. La silhouette fresca e rilassata, originale nell’abbinamento di trame e disegni, resta semplice e pratica con una particolare attenzione ai dettagli. SOCIALIZZARE CON GUSTO
15-0533 TC
7458 C
16-4421 TC
7500 C
11-0604 TC
180 C
17-1444 TC
9 143 C
15-1046 TC
2577 C
17-3615 TC
370 C
16-0228 TC
385 C
18-0324 TC
469 C
18-1130 TC
Linen Directions Connected Spring Summer 2012
energize
energize
Linen Directions Connected Spring Summer 2012
Frédéric Rey
G-Star
Paul Smith
Dries van Noten
Frédéric Rey
7, 9, 10
4
8
11
verso
Balenciaga 2
3, 5, 6,
Luca Zanier, série « Lieux d’énergie » 1
energize
1
3
4
5
6
7
8
2
9
A post-industrial esthetic guided by the concepts of “essential” and “reduction”. A new polychrome energy boosts technology and innovation in a joyous kind of kinesthesia. Color is pure added value, utilitarian but optimistic. Like an accent of distinction it is unique, conveying joy and style. A palette saturated with bright, graphic energy. Colors become shot and multi-dimensional when mixed, superposed and combined together. Graphic textures, herringbones in relief, big and small checks in shiny/matte combinations, pleated stripes, heavy piqués and honeycombs. Technological combinations of linen-polyester for silky aspects, linen-Lycra for elasticity or linen+ seaweed dissolving fibers for light, extremely fine effects. Piqué jersey and rice stitch effect. Open-worked and striped jersey. Smooth, metallic and rubberized finishes. Iridescent coatings. Air-finishing, eco-responsible washing for extra fluidity and drapeability, ecological non-wrinkle finishes. The style is urban, functional and nonchalant. Workwear is revitalized by combining highperformance fabrics with bright colors in a neo-culturalrevolution spirit. ENERGIZE BY COLOR.
Une esthétique postindustrielle, guidée par des concepts d’essentiel et de réduction. Une nouvelle énergie polychrome booste technologies et innovations dans une joyeuse kinesthésie. Utilitaire mais optimiste, la couleur est valeur ajoutée, accent de distinction, révélatrice de joie, de style et d’unicité. Palette saturée d’énergie, vive et graphique. Mélangés, superposés, recombinés entre eux les coloris se font changeants, multidimensionnels. Textures graphiques, zig-zag reliéfés, carreaux grands et petits en mat et brillant, rayures plissées, gros piqués, nids d’abeille. Mélanges technologiques lin-polyester pour des effets soyeux, lin-Lycra pour l’élasticité, lin-fibres solubles à base d’algues pour la légèreté et l’extrême finesse. Jersey piqué et effet grainde-riz. Jersey rayé et ajouré. Finissages lisses, métallisés, caoutchouc. Enductions iridescentes. Finissages mécaniques « aero » , lavages respectueux de l’environnement pour la fluidité et le plombant, finissages écologiques défroissables. Le style est urbain, fonctionnel et désinvolte. Un workwear chahuté par le mélange de tissus performants et de couleurs vives dans un esprit néo-révolution culturelle.
Emerge un’estetica postindustriale, guidata da concetti di essenzialità e riduzione. Una nuova energia policroma investe tecnologie e innovazioni in una gioiosa cinestesia. Utilitario ma ottimista, il colore è il valore aggiunto, accento di distinzione, rivelatore di gioia, stile, unicità.
modular flexible functional dense shot positive
Gamma saturata di energia, viva e grafica. Mescolati, sovrapposti, ricomposti tra di loro, i colori diventano cangianti, multidimensionali. Textures grafiche, spina pesce a rilievo, quadri e quadretti lucido/ opaco, righe pieghettate, grossi piqué, nido d’ape. Il lino si fa tecnologico, in mischia con poliestere per effetti “serici”, lino-Lycra per l’elasticità, lino con fibre solubili a base di alghe per dare leggerezza e finezze estreme. Jersey piqué e grana di riso. Jersey rigato e operato. Finissaggi lucidanti, metallizzati, gommati. Spalmature cangianti. Finissaggi meccanici “aero”, lavaggi rispettosi dell’ambiente per la fluidità e il drappeggio, finissaggi ecologici antigualcitura. Lo stile è urbano, funzionale e disinvolto. Stile workwear evidenziato da tessuti performanti e colori vivi in uno spirito di nuova rivoluzione culturale.
Warm Gray C
13-0403 TC
357 C
18-6330 TC
104 C
13-0640 TC
201 C
19-1759 TC 11
7416 C
18-1448 TC
281 C
19-4044 TC
315 C
18-4528 TC
ENERGIZE BY COLOURS
2695 C
19-3839 TC
ENERGIZE BY COLOURS. 412 C
19-0303 TC
10
The European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC) is the only European agro-industrial organization federating all the stages of production and transformation for linen & hemp. It oversees the fiber’s development from plant to finished product. Created in 1951, privileged spokesperson for 10 000 European companies, the CELC incites reflection, market analyses, industry concertation and strategic orientations. With its CELC MASTERS OF LINEN promotional platforms, the confederation creates an ideal competitive context for industry companies. Its actions stimulate innovation and rely on the value of these natural fibers with their proven environmental qualities : > through its Textile Pole for fashion, home and lifestyle > through its Technical Pole for new technical opportunities such as eco-construction and high-performing composite products. The Linen Dream Lab is a showroom dedicated to creativity and to textile or technical innovations. It offers services to innovators in the fashion, lifestyle and design industries > accompaniment in creation & aid in sourcing > publication of trend books and prototype fashion & home fabrics > Material, yarn and fabric library > a space for private meetings. LINEN DREAM LAB PARIS 15, rue du Louvre – 75001 Paris - Tel +33 (0)1 42 21 06 83 LINEN DREAM LAB MILAN Via Orti 2 – 20122 Milano – Tel +39 02 55 18 16 45 trends@mastersoflinen.com
CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH THE PARTICIPATION OF THE THEEUROPEAN PARTICIPATION OF THE UNION AND FRANCE
EUROPEAN UNION AND FRANCE