Trail magazine February 2014

l i v e fo r t h e o u t d o o r s LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS february 2014

i

glen coe’s

hidden peak! find it: p20

12 routes using the uk’s best maps

the Uk’s best-selling hillwalking magazine

february 2014 £3.99

become a

mountain hero Hills and skills to get you higher in style

helvellyn & skiddaw

The clever way up two snowy Lakeland giants

classic route

the cairngorms

r

Once-in-a-lifetime ascent of the mighty Braeriach

the one that learned a nifty trick for pegging a tent out in snow

the summit exclusive

k2: disaster on film the new movie that reveals the savage mountain’s darkest day

tested! ice grippers cosy jackets torches

Walk like a Sherpa avoid avalanches Camp in winter

t bes hil m

contents ‘This monster at the head of the Highlands is all the mountain a walker could ever need...’ (not that climbing bidean nam bian needs any justification)

p20

The sun sets on Glen Coe’s secret mountain. tom bailey

basecamp

skills

Dream peak

6

It’s rough. It’s rocky. It’s Wales’ Carnedd Dafydd!

The world’s most popular 8 Is Snowdon really the most climbed mountain?

Mountain Inquisition

10

Mountain Guide

12

Tune in to BBC Four for mouth-watering movies

High Lights: February

13

Your whole month of mountainy stuff, sorted

58

How to avoid avalanches; walk like a Sherpa; stay hydrated in winter; survive a frozen dunking; stop your food freezing; spot a dodgy compass PLUS protect your car from thieving varmints; help a cragfast walker; track animals in snow

Bidean nam Bian

20

...arguably ‘the finest summit in mainland Britain’

Helvellyn and Skiddaw 30

Tackling two Lakeland winter giants, the easy way

Snowdonia

40

14

Polar camping

44

Out There

16

Recreating a K2 disaster 50

Subscribe to Trail

28

Behind the picture

your trail

That somewhat speedy Spaniard, Kilian Jornet

Everest remastered

adventures

In Box

Digging a mini adventure in Croesor’s quarries

The world of hillwalking, according to you lot

Your best mountain moments, on camera

Sign up smartish, and grab two great gifts!

Cold-weather camping tips, from Arctic experts

A new movie about the killer peak’s darkest day

56

The art of converting 3D hills to 2D drawings

Where this month’s issue will take you Trail reveals how you can conquer some Lake District giants this winter.

p30

tom bailey

p40

p44

Laughing in the face of -20 deg C temperatures.

What lies beneath? Exploring the mines of Cwm Croesor.

TOM BAILEY

Håkan Wike

Know your animal tracks.

p68

RSPB IMAGES

Get kitted out for the snow.

p63

gear

routes

Kit report

39

First test

84

Headtorches

71

Did Trail’s gear survive a Lake District battering?

The hi-tech Hydrogen Reactor, for epic hill trips

We shine a light on what’s currently available

Ice grippers

77

Kit to keep you upright when terrain turns slippy

Insulated jackets

82

Hot new kit!

86

Half a dozen toasty tops for chillier conditions

The must-have hill gear that’s available soon

1 2 3 4 5 6 7-9 10-12 classic route

Helvellyn Langdale High Cup Nick Crimpiau Pen yr Ole Wen Creag Meagaidh Cairngorms Sedbergh Braeriach

93 95 97 99 101 103 107 113 118

Choose your route and go hillwalking!

classic route

6

7-9

1 2

4

5

3 10-12

base camp Your month of adventure starts here...

DREAM PEAK

CARNEDD DAFYDD SNOWDONIA Located within the largest area of high land in England and Wales, Carnedd Dafydd is a mountain that must be explored on foot to be truly understood. Driving down the A5 tourist route through the Ogwen Valley, you’ll see a giant grassy whaleback rearing up beyond the sheer southern fank of neighbouring Pen yr Ole Wen. But approach the summit on foot and you’ll soon discover some of the fnest clifs in Snowdonia dominating the mountain’s darkened north face. Known as ‘Te Black Ladders’, the grim 300m high bastion of Ysgolion Duon is a truly awesome sight. Dafydd also boasts the roughest and rockiest summit in the entire Carneddau range – and at 1044m is the fourth highest mountain in Wales.

DO IT THIS MONTH! ›› TURN TO PAGE 101

6 Trail february 2014

Named after a medieval prince, the regal outline of Carnedd Dafydd cuts a striking silhouette against the skyline of northern Snowdonia. Š Peter Heyes / AlAmy

february 2014 Trail 7

go: glen coe Do: Scotland’s hidden peak

Hidden behind a popular tourist photo spot is Scotland's secret mountain. What’s more, WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

S

ome names have gravity. An Teallach.

Braeriach. Sgurr nan Gillean. Ben Macdui.

Quinag. Hear them once and they’ll never let go, setting of sparks in your imagination until you get yourself to the mass of rock that earned that title and climb to its very top. Make no mistake; Bidean nam Bian is one of those names.

But with the whole of the Highlands to choose from, and only one lifetime to climb them, why would you pick this 1150m stack over any other? Te answer’s simple... �

20 Trail FEBRUARY 2014

climb its knotty slopes and you'll have nailed the fnest summit in mainland Britain.

Looking back at Bidean nam Bian from the mountain's north-east ridge.

FEBRUARY 2014 Trail 21

GO: The Lake District DO: Two winter giants

30 Trail february 2014

high adventure Mad about mountains but worried about winter? This wild weekend shows you how to tackle two of England’s highest peaks by two of their most straightforward routes.

t

Words oli reed PhotograPhs tom Bailey

o steal a phrase from British mountaineering star Leo Houlding, “Tere’s a fne line between badass and dumbass.”

Leo, a proud Lake District native, has travelled to the far corners of the Earth in search of high-altitude adventure, but has never lost sight of the early lessons he learned in the Cumbrian mountains. Tat’s because even in little old Lakeland, with its quaint landscapes, tourist honeypots and polished mountain paths, there’s menace lurking around every corner – especially when snow strikes.

Avalanches, white-outs and cornices all become very real dangers in winter, but the good news is these peaks can still be approachable. Climbed properly – by the right routes, using the right skills and kitted out with the right gear – they ofer a fascinating and hugely rewarding set of challenges for hillwalkers.

Tere’s an old cliché that by walking in winter you’re actually taking your frst steps into the realm of ‘proper’ mountaineering. Tat may or may not be true, but it’ll certainly make you feel like a badass. �

Approaching the snow-capped summit of Helvellyn, with Nethermost Pike and Fairfeld in the background.

february 2014 Trail 31

subscribe and get a silva compass and map casE worth £48! n The Silva Expedition 4 compass is specially designed to simplify map work. Features include a full-size base plate, 1:25,000, 1:40,000, 1:50,000, mm & inch measuring scales, luminous points for navigation in the dark, Romer scales for plotting positions on maps, and a magnifying lens. It’s marked in degrees, and comes supplied with a neck cord.

n The Silva Carry Dry map case is waterproof and fully transparent, allowing you to view the map from both sides in any weather. It’s easy to open and close, with a neck strap should you need to keep your hands free. The holes in the corners allow you to attach it to a rucksack.

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n Terms & conditions Subscriptions will start with the next available issue. The minimum term is 13 issues. After your first 13 issues (1 year) your subscription will continue at £44.51 every 13 issues thereafter unless you are notified otherwise. You will not receive a renewal reminder and the direct debit payments will continue to be taken unless you tell us otherwise. This offer closes on 23 January, 2014. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Calls from a BT landline will cost no more than 4p a minute. Call charges from other landline providers or mobile phones may vary. Order lines open 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat). UK orders only. Overseas? Phone +44 1858 438828. Calls may be monitored or recorded for training purposes.

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gO: the arctic DO: camping in -20 deg c

learninG FroM THe besT WOrDS BEN WEEKS PHOTOGraPHS HÅKAN WIKE

44 Trail february 2014

When it's 20 below, living under canvas is a big challenge – even for ‘Team Sweden’.

If you want a masterclass on how to thrive in the frozen darkness of winter, what do you do? You find some polar experts, hightail it into the Arctic, and wait for nightfall...

february 2014 Trail 45

1 August 2008.

11 climbers die on the slopes of K2, the world's second highest mountain.

Now a new flm reconstructs the chaos and confusion that still lingers fve years after one of the bloodiest, most controversial chapters in mountaineering history...

Brutal and beautiful: morning light hits the summit of K2. Š Daniel H Bailey / alamy

50 Trail FEBRUARY 2014

K2 the

darkest day FEBRUARY 2014 Trail 51

VERDICTS YOU CAN TRUST

GEAR ON TEST This month, get the low-down on the tools to battle cold, dark winter days – including the increasingly common and surprisingly useful ‘mini-crampon’.

TEST AND STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHS GRAHAM THOMPSON OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

HEADTORCHES p70

ICE GRIPPERS p77

68 TRAIL FEBRUARY 2014

INSULATED JACKETS p82

UNDERSTANDING TRAIL'S TESTS MAGAZINE

BEST IN TEST

This is awarded to the best in its class...

MAGAZINE

BEST VALUE ...whereas this offers the most bang for its buck.

m

n

= Men’s version = Women’s version

What our scores mean Trail’s all for transparency and consistency in gear tests, so our scoring is done by a simple star grading system. The stars tot up to form an average star grade, to make the overall rating.

POOR BELOW AVERAGE AVERAGE GOOD PERFORMANCE THE BEST IN ITS CLASS

✱ ✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱

FEBRUARY 2014 TRAIL 69

FEBRUARY

ROUTES

CHOOSE THE BEST ROUTE FOR YOU...

Master our detailed route guides and plan the perfect walk!

STRENUOUSNESS

How tired will this route make me?

The times quoted for Trail Routes are based on estimates of 4km per hour, plus 30 min for every 300m of ascent, with another hour added for rests every 8 hours. The blocks give you an at-a-glance guide: ■ Quickie ■■ Short day ■■■ Full day ■■■■ Very full day ■■■■■ Endurance test

NAVIGATION

■■■■ ■ ■■■■■ ■ ■■■■ 2 1

TECHNICALITY – WALKS

HILL BAGGING STATS

How difficult will I find it?

■ Easy walking in gentle countryside ■■ Unthreatening slopes with no exposure ■■■ Typical Lakes fellwalk – rough, rocky

Walking the Wainwrights, the Munros, the Corbetts or the Welsh 3000s? These routes have got you covered.

WHAT ARE THE TRAIL 100?

They’re your tick-list of the 100 UK mountains you MUST climb! Download the full list from: bit.ly/trail100

ALWAYS TAKE A MAP ON THE HILL

GRADIENT PROFILE

We map every route for its unique gradient profile, giving you a pinpoint impression of its progressive steepness and the heights you’ll hit.

TRAIL Routes Start PROFILE are available from

TECHNICALITY – SCRAMBLES/CLIMBS

■ Grade 1 scramble ■■ Grade 2 scramble ■■■ Grade 3 scramble ■■■■ Grade 3S scramble or Diff climb ■■■■■ V Diff climb NB Look for additional winter warnings on red-graded routes

!

BEFORE YOU GO...

If you’re likely to encounter snow or ice on your walk you need to take precautions.

You MUST have ice axe, crampons and the skills to use them and navigate in winter, and you should check weather forecasts and avalanche forecasts (www.sais.gov.uk) before heading into the mountains. Visit Mountain Finish Weather Information Service www.mwis.org.uk

If you have a GPS-enabled smart1 Check the compatibility of your phone youGarnedd can install these TrailFoel Grach smartphone Uchaf Carnedd at Ll www.viewranger.

Routes on it via ViewRanger’s app com/trail for free for the next 30 days*, 2 Download the iPhone app and install using special route codes. it (Symbian and Android phone users

(Sorry, Classic Route is not available)

92 TRAIL FEBRUARY 2014

We aim to provide the most accurate information, but you must ALWAYS use an Ordnance Survey or Harvey map on the hill and double-check any directions against it.

ground, bogs and steeper slopes ■■■■ Steep, rough ground and scree.

Occasional exposure ■■■■■ Hands required for at least one move – airy and steep throughout

get a 15-day free trial at www.viewranger.com/trail) 3 Get your free Trail Routes: go to Search and use the red route codes from the following pages 4 Go walking!

* on compatible phones, from publication date; app purchase required

ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPPING © CROWN COPYRIGHT. CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. LICENCE MEDIA089/12

STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY MUNRO COUNT TRAIL 100 COUNT

How tricky is this route to follow?

■ Clear, well-marked paths in a valley or following a linear feature, like Hadrian’s Wall or the South West Coast Path ■■ Valley, moor, hill or mountain paths which are normally clear but low cloud could affect your ability to follow paths ■■■ Almost pathless in valleys; less clear paths on moors, hills and mountains, but generally following clearly defined hill shapes ■■■■ Some paths but not clear, not well used or some confusion possible ■■■■■ Open moorland, mountain plateau or crag without paths. Route confusion likely and close attention to navigation needed at all times

Winter on the edges

Lake district

13.5km/8½ miles

route

1

scramble STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY WAINWRIGHT COUNT trail 100 COUNT

■■■■■ ■■■■■ ■■■■■ 2 1

Helvellyn via Striding Edge

dan bailey

Grisedale and St Sunday Crag from the top of Nethermost Pike’s east ridge.

Join Dan Bailey for a mountaineering round of England’s best winter ridge and its little-known twin, in an antidote to overcrowding.

W

ith its inland position and snow-holding altitude, England’s third highest offers some of the most reliable winter thrills south of the Scottish border. For mountaineers the eastern flank of the range is where the action is, a series of deep-scooped coves and sharpchiselled ridges gleaming white under a low-slung winter sun. Everyone’s heard of Striding Edge, of course, and on a good day you’ll probably meet most of them up there, revelling in the airy exposure and grand architectural lines of England’s finest winter ridge. But under snow this famously only-just-scrambling walk undergoes something of a

crowds with this novel twist on the standard horseshoe? Just south of Striding Edge is a secretive next-door neighbour, the east ridge of Nethermost Pike.

Here’s an antidote to the Helvellyn hordes: a craggy climb in impressive surroundings – but one that few seem to have even heard of. While everyone else is starting their day with a queue along Striding Edge, you can sneak up Nethermost Pike’s mountaineering-flavoured east ridge in practically guaranteed solitude. Then as the shadows lengthen and the crowds melt away, it’s time to enjoy an exclusive evening descent of Striding Edge to � round off a classic winter expedition.

St Sunday Crag from Striding Edge.

seriousness transformation, becoming a full-on Grade I winter climb that’s best reserved for competent mountaineers armed with the appropriate metalwork and a head for heights. It’s typically done in combination with neighbouring Swirral Edge, but instead why not escape the

february 2014 Trail 93

CLASSIC ROUTE

Take an epic walk around Britain’s wildest mountain plateau, in the knowledgeable company of Jeremy Ashcroft.

118 Trail february 2014

cairngorms

Looking across the Lairig Ghru towards the Angel’s Peak and Braeriach, from the summit of Ben Macdui. © ashley cooPeR Pics / alamy

Braeriach & Cairn Toul E

very now and again something happens on a mountain that makes an impression on you and fixes itself deep in your memory. It could be a highly dramatic event or it could be a simple unexpected encounter. Whatever it is it often slants your bias towards the particular peak. With me, for Braeraich, it was not one incident, it was three – and each has generated such a bias that I have no qualms in declaring it my favourite mountain. The three incidents in question are: my first ever experience of complete silence; a first fleeting encounter with a mountain hare; and the ascent of a new scramble.

Ringed by a complex system of corries, the high plateau on the west side of the Lairig Ghru is the most extensive area of land above 4,000ft in Britain. Four main summits make up this sub-arctic plateau. At the southern

end lie the conical spires of Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochain Uaine; in the centre is the secretive rise of Einich Cairn. Topping them all at the northern end is the rounded dome of Braeraich. A walk up each of these mountains is worthy of merit in its own right, but when the quartet are combined together in one long epic tour it becomes a walk of truly world-class status.

As a mountain group there is no one feature that defines it; it is greater than the sum of its parts. If asked you would struggle to give a brief answer to what makes it great, and after different visits you would undoubtedly give different answers.

A common thread to all your responses would be the real sense of wilderness the place exudes, both physically and in spirit.

The idea of wilderness is used for many parts of upland Britain, but this corner of

the Cairngorms must surely have the strongest case. The greater part of the plateau, the crags and the upper reaches of the enclosing corries have barely changed since the last ice age.

There are a number of possible start options for this walk, both from Speyside and from Deeside, but the simplest and arguably the most exciting is to pop out into the Lairig Ghru via the stony jaws of the Chalamain Gap. To do this means starting on the Cairn Gorm ski road, which helpfully has a regular bus service and ample parking. Doing it clockwise means the slightly more technical ground onto Cairn Toul can be tackled when you are fresh, leaving the steady ground off Braeraich for the descent. Doing it this way round also gives you the option of splitting the walk over two days, overnighting either in Garbh Coire Bothy, or camping close. �

february 2014 Trail 119